>> john: you didn't say the egg was delicious. you did not. >> anthony: but i ate two of them. silence is the highest compliment. just the gnashing of my jaws. >> john: you didn't say -- >> anthony: delicious, delicious eggs. >> anthony: maybe you know him -- i hope you know him -- from such excellent shows as "united shades of america." host, writer, comedian -- w. kamau bell. ♪ i bumped into him in the cnn scene room recently fondling his emmy, and i asked him, "kamau, if you could go anywhere on earth for like a mash-up episode of my show and yours, where

would that be?" he said kenya. so, here we are, "united shades unknown" or "parts united." scratch that. that doesn't sound good. "america's shadiest parts." no, that doesn't work either. "unknown shades of --" ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha la la la la sha la la la la la ♪ ♪ sha la la la la sha la la la la la la ♪ ♪

>> anthony: first time on this continent? >> kamau: yes. as a african-american, there's a lot of talk about going back to this thing of the "motherland." >> anthony: and look, a seriously radicalizing experience for african-american comics who come here before. >> kamau: yes. yeah, yeah, yeah. >> anthony: life changing, so we shall see. >> kamau: even walking through the streets, i have this feeling of like, when i moved from chicago to oakland -- you know you hear about oakland as being this black city. and you get there and it's like, you know, there's black people here, but it's not like -- >> anthony: uh-huh. >> kamau: this is what i imagined oakland was going to be like. like, this feels like this is black, you know. ♪ >> anthony: nairobi means "cool water" in maasai. it's the capitol of kenya with

6.5 million people living in the metro area. it grew up around a british railroad depot during the colonial era, halfway between other british interests in uganda and the coastal port of mombasa. ♪ i will admit to a weird, frankly unlovely sense of "been here, done that." it's not a good look for me, i know. but there's a mischievous curiosity tucked away in some poisonous part of my brain that's dying to see how kamau handles the heat, the spice, the crowds, the overwhelming rush of a whole new world, because that's what it is, first time. this ain't berkeley.

[ horns honking ] ♪ >> anthony: i'm already happy. >> kamau: i'm pretty happy because i've seen this scene so many times on your show. i finally get to be in this scene. this is going to be good. >> anthony: i mean, you have a kenyan name. >> kamau: yes. my parents met in east palo alto, california. you know, this is like the late '60s, starting to be the early '70s, so post the civil rights movement, at that point where black people are trying to really, like, want a connection to the motherland. and in east palo alto there was this push towards naming it nairobi -- nairobi, california. back then, there was people who were like, "we need to be associated with an example of african culture that is winning." and at that point, kenya was being looked at as winning because they had just kick out the brits. and there's all this sort of like, you know, "we need to start a whole new culture, a new government."

so they start a community college that's in people's houses and in basements and storefronts. and i was the first baby born to one of the heads of the council, apparently. and apparently there was like a whole ceremony. it lasted eight days, and you know. i picture it like "the lion king." i don't know. there's no pictures. >> anthony: and yet, a proud kenyan name, given your background, why so long? what took you so long, man? >> kamau: i was waiting for an invitation. i think, as a black american, i'm still wrestling with my african-american identity sometimes. and i'm still wondering am i doing right by this culture and does this culture think i'm doing right by them. and that's why i don't want to walk around like, "i'm home!" i also think that a lot of times black people in america have really struggled with that as an

identity, what does it mean to be a black in america? i'm like i fought hard to claim this identity. it's exhausting. you know? am i ready to start with a new one? i don't know yet. >> anthony: well, we'll see in a week when you head back. >> kamau: exactly. ♪ >> anthony: shit runs deep here. meaning, best scientists can tell, it all started for us in this neighborhood. tribes of hunter-gatherers, arab and persian traders, the omani all left their mark. but the british empire's hold from 1895 to 1964 is perhaps most deeply felt. the british system of education, governance, justice, along with -- to a certain extent -- it's values, were imposed on a native people and laid for better and worse much of the foundation for modern kenya.

it did abolish slavery, for instance. it did build a modern infrastructure. it was also completely and fundamentally exploitative, often violent and, well, racist. kenya existed to make white people from far away rich. but in 1963, kenya won its independence and elected its first president, jomo kenyatta, and since that time has fought an uphill battle to shake the last vestiges of colonial rule while hanging on to what worked. things are by most accounts going well. there is a growing middle class, a highly rated educational system and an enthusiastic and multilingual professional sector. which is to say this is decidedly not a shithole.

it's dynamic, it's changing, and it's incredible. kenya -- by kenyans, for kenyans. but hurdles exist. bizarre, almost surreal ones in this case. mitumba, for instance. also known as "the clothing of dead white people." >> njeri: 70% of africans are wearing secondhand clothes. if we can just make our own clothes and make them cheap enough, and make the money and keep the money. >> anthony: njeri gikera is the owner of chili mango, an all-kenyan street wear company. melissa mbugua is a managing director at a creative

consulting firm. >> anthony: as i understand it, there used to be 500,000 manufacturing jobs in kenya. textile manufacturing. and there's now 20,000. >> njeri: before the '80s, we had a booming textile industry that could employ 500,000 people. but now in the '80s, when the world bank introduced the free trade, we got all the secondhand clothes coming into the country. >> anthony: here's how it works. your pants or your t-shirt get old or boring. so, being a good-hearted soul, rather than throw them out, you drop them in a charity box, assuming they'll go to someone who needs them. but no. in fact, that charity sells your pants and your t-shirt along with a whole lot of other clothes in bulk to a secondhand clothing exporter, a middle man, part of a billion-dollar industry.

exporters then sell your stuff by the container load to places like kenya. along the way, millions of dollars are creamed off in duties. the old clothes are then unpacked, sorted and sold in markets throughout the country. this low-cost clothing option has absolutely crushed the domestic textile market. >> anthony: now some countries in africa have said, "wait a minute. this is not good for our employment situation. we're not going to let this stuff in anymore." what happened then? >> njeri: so america came and

they told us they would have trade sanctions against us. >> anthony: if you didn't take all this used clothes. >> njeri: exactly. yeah, because of the free trade, yeah, exactly. >> anthony: that's extortion. >> melissa: it's pretty much oppressive. >> nieri: it's bullying. >> melissa: it's colonialism. >> kamau: usa! usa! [ laughter ] >> anthony: as screwed up as the whole situation is, people do love the availability of cheap clothes. and toi market is the place to go for what in nyc would be called vintage. a dense labyrinth of shops, neatly organized by specialty. >> kamau: "honey, i brought all the uggs back from kenya." [ laughter ] there's got to be something in your size. >> anthony: the challenge today

is gonna be finding footwear for kamau's decidedly non-kenyan feet. not to mention mine. >> anthony: nah, i need a half size up. >> njeri: oh, nice. >> kamau: there we go. i had to come to the continent to find shoes that fit me. >> njeri: high five! high ten, yeah. >> kamau: let's just be clear. some rich, annoying american person who bought these, wore them twice, and then was like, "ew, they're out of season." >> melissa: yeah. >> anthony: that debbie harry shirt is kinda cool. yeah. i will take this, for sure. >> kamau: oh, here we go. >> melissa: oh, nice. >> kamau: now we're talking. black man in america wearing a king kong shirt. >> melissa: that's too much, yeah. >> kamau: i don't know how it goes over here, but in america, that's a great narc shirt. >> anthony: right. >> kamau: "hey, kids." >> anthony: "anyone want to buy some acid?" >> kamau: this is just weird enough and simple enough. >> anthony: that's pretty cool.

>> kamau: i feel like -- where did you get that shirt? i got it in kenya. [ laughter ] >> anthony: is there a realistic hope that the textile industry would come back? >> njeri: there is -- to me there is. you know china and south korea, they didn't leave poverty or stop being poor by importing secondhand clothes. they did it by building all these factories, being able to export the stuff that they're producing. so it has to happen the same way

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♪ >> anthony: everybody needs a superhero. in kibera, nairobi's largest

neighborhood, they make their own -- part of a project run by the maasai mbili art collective -- intended to empower kids who don't otherwise have much. >> simon: there's a swahili saying that says [ speaking swahili ] art is a reflection of the community. >> mammito: well, what we did is to make art. we use it as a tool. >> geoff: so many stories have been told about kibera. >> simon: but they're negative stories. many organizations come here in kibera, they shoot videos and films talking about aids, drugs, you know, negative things about kibera. >> kamau: so you have a lot of documentary crews that come through here and film crews that come through here? >> geoff: they usually come here. >> kamau: so my question -- i have a question. are we assholes? [ laughter ] >> anthony: i was ready for

that. >> kamau: we can talk around it. i feel like a white guy right now. you know what i mean? [ rooster crowing ] >> anthony: kibera is massive. around 172,000 people live here. >> kamau: and so here, as a person named kamau, i'm not unique. >> all: yeah! >> geoff: it's a common name here. >> kamau: i've waited all my life to be common. >> mammito: welcome home. >> he is a dmeed comedian, simon a musician. once voted the funny est person using art to tell a story about kidera. >> it's a challenge that we've been facing in this life, like me, you know. me, i've been brought up by a single parent. i used to engage in criminal activities. coming across my fellow friends

and doing such kind of messes, we decided to come up with an organization known as creative arts, so to try to teach this, our fellow young people, to make them avoid getting to these traps that are set for us. >> ka bera is also ground zero for what's called around here "the white savior complex," the focal point for the 12,000 well meaning ex-pat workers who live in kenya. it's a dynamic that can be counterproductive. the salary and employment discrepancies can cause a ripple effect of problems for native kenyans. >> yeah, man. >> many kenyans are working on a grassroots level to take control of their own future. ka bera creative arts being an example. artists and performers from the neighborhood working to support and develop local talent. >> what is it like to be a

comedian in kenya, how does it look? >> it's so hard to make people laugh in kenya. imagine these are people who have not paid their rent. >> their rent. >> these are people who have gone without food for some days. >> they come in angry. angry and hungry. >> yeah. >> you should check the camera when i was small. >> and that is the reason why when we go on stage and make people laugh, it is a plus. they say, wow! ♪ ♪ >> i love to make more people happy because there is always ups and downs in life. we always life. >> you know when people see me performing and they see all the people seeing momito just performing she's now a star, i don't need to go and somewhere to be a star.

i can use whatever i am. even in kadera, we have some things we can show. ♪ ♪ >> by regional standards, kenya, nairobi, anyway, is particularly tolerant. kenya has become a sanctuary of sorts for a number of diverse ethnic, political and social groups. one such group with a steadily growing nucleus is the lgbt community. not too long ago, a nearly unthinkable development. so you shall never know this pain or awkwardness when i'm doing shows in the states. so, what's it like being black in america? [ laughter ] >> now you will share my pain. what's it like being gay in kenya? karera are members of

revolutionary art love, a gay art collective. kevin washiro is a writer and journalist. so, how free can you be? are there other places in kenya where you can walk around holding hands with your partner? >> you can try, you know? >> are there places you can go where it's not an experiment? >> no. i think at all points it's an experiment. >> so where is the threat from? where is it most dangerous? >> i think the violence is like from homophobes. most of it is based on the desire of the penis. you see two women kiss, you think you can get in there. >> oh, there's just one penis -- >> yeah, like they need me to help them out with a dick. and the violence like against

lesbians comes in the part where men realize, oh, they're not attracted to me. >> i've always had this theory that a lot of issues and discrimination that we face is based on our attitude towards women. and so, you know, straight men will then come at a comp gay man because you're not a man, you are a woman and we do not respect women and, therefore, you know, why would you want to be like this? >> much of the news concerning gay rights on this continent continues to be pretty grim. it should be pointed out that even being gay is still illegal here. but in february of 2018, the kenyan national gay and lesbian rights commission filed suit to strike down sections of the laws, arguing, well, the obvious. that they violate basic human rights. what happens next? well, a lot of people are holding their breath. >> the fact that we were in court, people wearing bracelets

with rainbow colors. you're gay in court. and i think we're queer in court that day. we queered court. >> if the laws are overturned what are the larger implications? >> if we win this case, i'm happy and scared at the same time. >> yeah. >> why scared? >> backlash obviously. there will be people who -- there will be people who will be attacked. i mean, when we move to an extreme end of freedom, and there will be hate. i mean, i want it to happen so bad. can we have pride on the streets of nairobi? >> when you say pride on the streets, you mean like i live in san francisco a long time. every year there's a gay pride parade. you're saying if you have that, then you know there's been a real change? >> if it happened for us, it will be inclusion for every other minority in this country. ♪ ♪

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>> analo: boxing is life. for example, the first boxing lesson is stance. and the importance of stance is stability. also in life, you need that stability. and then, you have to protect yourself. protecting yourself, it means protection from many things -- peer-pressure, all these things that can weigh them down. and then there is a jab, a jab keeps the opponent at bay. and also open for an opening that you can hit at. >> anthony: analo anjere is a rather remarkable man. a former professional fighter who established "box girls" to train specifically female boxers. >> anthony: is there a moment in the fight that you're pretty sure you're going to win? >> sarah: i told them, i already

won it in the gym. so i'm just here to confirm. >> kamau: gotta talk trash, gotta talk that ali, yeah. >> anthony: the awesome sarah ndisi is a professional who trains under him, and also teaches in the program. >> analo: our vision is, create a world where girls can take advantage of every opportunity and create opportunities for other girls. >> anthony: and i very much like the idea of old, small girls, young women, women being able to kick the [ bleep ] out of men if they have to. >> kamau: exactly. >> anthony: what was your journey? how did you -- why did you first start training? did you want to become a professional from the beginning? or did you make that decision after a while? >> sarah: okay, my main reason was to revenge, actually. >> anthony: revenge? >> sarah: yeah, it was all about revenge because one day when i was going for -- >> analo: she didn't tell me that was the -- [ laughter ]

>> kamau: you would've talked to her first. >> sarah: yeah, i was going for a walk in the morning. and when i was coming back home, a man just slapped me and ran away. that's when i started having the idea if i had the boxing skills, the defense skills i could have at least saw where the punch was coming from, and at least defend myself. >> anthony: sarah fought russian boxer marina popova in 2015, winning the ubo intercontinental lightweight division title, kenya's first international boxing title. she took time off to have children and is now back and training for her return to the ring.

>> kamau: did you ever get your revenge? >> sarah: i never got my revenge because i came to realize if you are trained, boxers should have discipline, most of the time. [ laughter ] >> most of the time. >> anthony: swahili culture is a deep part of kenya cuisine. born of indian, arabic and persian influences. traders on the indian ocean side of the continent. this meal is a clear example of that mix. mahamri is a bread made with cardamom. mchicha is east african spinach, a staple green across swahili-speaking africa from tanzania to mozambique. beans with onions in coconut milk. chicken biryani with masala, ginger, turmeric, and eggs. >> anthony: fantastic. beautiful. man, honestly, this looks really

good. >> kamau: how does it work at your gym? do people pay to train? is there a monthly fee or how do they -- >> analo: i train them for free. >> kamau: really? just because you want to help. >> analo: yeah. there is nothing to charge because there is nothing they can give, so we give what we have. and because they have the skills, and we are there, what do we do? we just train them. through the training, some get employment, some become professional fighters, they find their ways. [ shouting ] ♪ >> anthony: whatever bus you're

taking, it ain't like this. crosstown traffic just got a little bit wilder and more fun if you're riding the friendly skies of a matatu. matatus are privately owned and operated bus lines, running regular routes. fiercely competitive. to the point that owners starting making modifications and an ever-changing range of themes, designed to attract the fickle commuter. ♪ >> anthony: oh, yeah. >> ♪ >> kamau: not subtle. >> anthony: all right, let's do it, man. >> anthony: culminating in buses like this -- mad max -- a rolling, post-apocalyptic, seizure-inducing party bus. just the thing you need after a hard day's work. ♪

>> kamau: i'm not trying to dance. it's making me dance. i don't actually want to dance. >> anthony: so what do people want in a mutatu? what do they have to have? >> brian: first of all, you need to have good music. ♪ the exterior art has to be popping. >> anthony: wide-screen tvs. >> brian: yeah, tvs, wi-fi, air fresheners. ♪ >> anthony: beers, and goat's head soup. a global classic, slow-cooked well, goat's head. my companion, mr. bell,

unaccustomed as he is to the ways of africa, is new to this dish. and i don't want to sound all colonel mustard, but i eat this shit for breakfast by now. you know what i mean? >> kamau: i hear the words goat head soup, and i think, "oh, it'll be meat from the goat's head in a soup." >> anthony: oh no, it's a goat head, dude. >> kamau: that explains things, as we see. a full-on head of a goat. >> anthony: brian wanyama obhiando is a blogger, photographer and chronicler of the matatu phenomenon. lucia alessandra murotto is a legendary conductor. cathrine kambun is the owner of mad max. >> anthony: honored guest. >> kamau: honored guest. is this eye i'm eating right here? >> anthony: yup. salt. >> anthony: i generously reserve the best and most tender bits for my friend, as one does. i fear, however, that he was

less than enthusiastic, initially, anyway. wait till he tries the brain. he's gonna love it. >> kamau: that's my first eye. >> anthony: yeah? it's all right. >> kamau: i knew i'd end up doing something like that with you. [ laughter ] >> anthony: so you own the business? >> cathy: yeah. >> anthony: and how long have you been in the business? >> cathy: like five years. >> anthony: we want to get into the mutatu business. in new york. >> kamau: yes. [ laughter ] >> anthony: thinking about some improvements. we need a hot tub. >> kamau: yeah, hot tub. >> anthony: what's your theme? i already picked mine out. >> kamau: see, i'm all about counter-programming, a reese witherspoon mutatu. a tribute to all the movies of reese witherspoon. i'm all about thinking outside the box. >> anthony: i'm thinking wolf blitzer "the situation room." "the situation room" mutatu. this could reinvigorate public transportation as we know it. >> kamau: especially in new york

and l.a., people don't like the bus. ♪ and what does it mean to be a conductor? they don't just let anybody be the conductor. >> lucia: in this job you need to have a lot of patience. just somebody who's had a bad day, they just don't want to pay. if you don't have patience you just find yourself on top of the moon. so when you carry people you need to show them that it's full of energy. >> brian: they need to know how to get the people inside the mutatu. >> kamau: so the whistle just gets everybody -- >> lucia: yeah. >> kamau: jumped up and excited. >> anthony: like i said, this is a competitive business. the mutatu can cost up to $60,000 to buy and build out. rides are only 60 cents. so to get the money back, you better get the customers in and out and coming back for 100,000 rides before you break even. >> kamau: so can you tell me,

what's it like growing up as an italian-kenyan? i was trying not to say white. in america, white people get upset when you call them white. so i was trying to -- >> lucia: um, the challenges i had was a kid was my hair. everyone wanted to touch my hair. one thing i love about this job is that i meet all types of people. and i don't look down on them and they don't look down on me. that's the best part of it. ♪ >> anthony: just wait until new york city sees kamau and my joint venture -- the wolf blitzer. ♪ ♪

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♪ >> anthony: a few hours' drive from nairobi, it's another world. ♪ the africa of dreams, of films, the natural world. but a world under constant threat. lewa wildlife conservancy seeks to address the problem of keeping all this alive and safe without excluding or marginalizing the people who've lived here for centuries. that is a delicate balance. man and nature. how to responsibly care for one

without negatively impacting the other in a world of ever-decreasing resources. >> karmusha: this is dave, guys. look at this guy here. this is dave the giraffe. he's a residential giraffe. hi, dave. >> anthony: our guide is karmushu kiama. he grew up in a village near here and has a deep knowledge of the wildlife of lewa. >> anthony: are those termite mounds? >> karmusha: termite mounds, yup. >> kamau: that's filled with termites? >> karmusha: that's filled with termites. >> kamau: that's horrible. >> anthony: a little useless trivia, in a fire fight, you hide behind one of those it will provide useful coverage. >> kamau: this is my first safari, that's a very specific safari with an expert, and with you with useless information, this is a -- i paid extra for this. this is significantly better than the zoo, i guess that goes without saying. >> anthony: yeah. >> kamau: for some reason, i don't know if it's just me, but i had a negative connotation of safaris.

>> anthony: they used to shoot animals in safaris. there's our kind of safari and then there's the -- you know, trump jr. safari. >> kamau: yeah, i think i was afraid every time i said the word that people were just like, "what are you doing?" like -- >> anthony: no, this is -- this is a good kind of safari. >> kamau: okay. >> anthony: good for the world. >> kamau: okay, good. >> karmusha: 100% good for the world. >> kamau: good for the world. >> karmusha: good for all the communities. i think we need another word or something. are there elephants out here right now? >> karmusha: so we have elephants, yeah. >> anthony: have you ever ridden on top of an elephant? >> kamau: no. >> anthony: i have done that. and you know, once again, a little interesting little factoid. >> kamau: here we go. >> anthony: when you're sitting on top of an elephant, the sensation, the tactile quality is like you're sitting on top of a giant scrotum. [ laughter ] >> kamau: wow, you're really selling it. "tony's useless safari facts." >> karmusha: see an elephant? >> anthony: where? >> karmusha: right there.

>> kamau: even if you see them in a zoo closer, they're behind bars that it just doesn't feel connected. but i feel like we're right here. >> anthony: yeah, he's actually going someplace. >> kamau: yeah, he's not just walking in a circle. he's actually got stuff to do. ♪ >> anthony: the fact of the matter is, these magnificent animals would most likely be gone without the intervention of man. ♪ people pay a lot of money to come see these animals. without that money, the overwhelming likelihood is that they would have been wiped out long ago. particularly this one -- >> anthony: whoa, what's that? >> karmusha: that's a rhino. our first rhino.

>> kamau: whoa, whoa. wow. ♪ >> anthony: the conservancy was set up specifically to protect these guys. initially a cattle ranch owned and operated by the craig family, the kenyan government, after finally acknowledging that the rhinoceros was on the verge of extinction, asked the family to set aside some of their property to bring all surviving rhinos here to recover and hopefully restore their numbers. from only 15 animals a few years back, there are over 150 of them today. ♪ [ gunshots ] poaching is, of course, an ever-present danger to both the animals at lewa and the people who look after them.

particularly the rhinoceros, whose horn is believed by wealthy chinese buyers to be a strong medicine with virility-enhancing powers. the reality, that the substance that makes up a rhino horn is the same as the human fingernail, does not deter a market that will pay tens of thousands of dollars for a single horn. with 62,000 acres to cover, lewa's anti-poaching program is necessarily aggressive, inclusive, and cutting edge, relying on local trackers, advanced tracking technologies, and perhaps most importantly, good community outreach and intelligence gathering. if the local people are not on your side, you are at a serious disadvantage. >> karmusha: so that's a white rhino. >> kamau: it's a white rhino? >> karmusha: that is a white rhino. >> kamau: so how do -- >> karmusha: it's nothing to do with the coloration. white was an african name --

"whit" -- which means "wide-mouth." and whoever came to write about them put an "e" there. then it became "white." >> kamau: okay, because you said white rhino, and i was like -- >> karmusha: yeah, it's not white. >> kamau: i think his dad might be black. ♪ >> anthony: does it look like you wanted it to look? or expected it to look? >> kamau: i mean, uh, no. i mean, i guess i don't know, so many images. i mean, i grew up as a kid, you know, my first images of africa were "tarzan," you know? so i don't think i knew what kenya africa was. you know? i think the expanse of it is not something i could be prepared for. like the -- it takes over the entire horizon. >> anthony: what a shithole, right? [ laughter ] >> kamau: what a shithole.

i mean, the other thing i'm aware of too is, on this trip, is still that thing of not wanting to feel like i have come home, you know? and yeah, there is a sense that there is this diasporic connection, even though i did not come from kenya, you know? it's nice to have that connection. even if the frame that that connection was built through was colonialism. even though that's not -- it's the good part of colonialism. it brings people together. [ laughter ] >> anthony: i don't know. it should kind of me compulsory viewing for -- if you ever run for president, this should be compulsory viewing. >> kamau: at the very least, i do think that a lot of perspectives will be opened up, a lot of minds will be changed. you know, this is on a very personal note, like the idea that i'm sitting here with you doing this now, knowing where my

life and career have come, it's pretty cool. >> anthony: that's about as meta as it gets. >> kamau: yeah, no, it's just like every now and again i have this like, "whose life is this?" >> anthony: i will tell you, i got 17 [ bleep ] years and i -- actually, as soon as the cameras turn off, um, and like the crew will be sitting around having a cocktail, i'll [ bleep ] pinch myself. i cannot [ bleep ] believe that i get to do this. see this, ever. or that i ever would because, what, 44 years old dunking fries i knew with absolute certainty that i would never, ever see rome, much less this. ♪

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♪ >> tom: looking at some of our cultures here, you know, from where we came from, traditionally, we've had some sort of conservation culture, which sort of got eroded. it's been with us, it's been with our forefathers. we just lost it somewhere, recently. and we're trying to get it back.

>> anthony: when you have traditional pastoral communities under intense and immediate pressure, trying to convince them that wildlife, which can, as in the case of one rhino or elephant, bring in life-changing amounts of money, it is a hard thing to convince them that it is in their long-term interest to let them live -- particularly when it was often wealthy white outsiders doing the asking. >> mike: if you are very successful in managing this ex-cattle ranch as a conservancy, but wildlife across kenya as a whole had no future, then to all intents and purposes you've just established a zoo. a large zoo. and so what lewa's ethos has always been is to just show kenyans that actual wildlife can have value and benefit. ♪ >> anthony: mike watson is the ceo of the lewa conservancy. tom lalampa leads the northern rangeland trust. faith riunga is the head of education at lewa. and wanjinku kinuthia is head of

communication. >> anthony: you're responsible for a larger picture, involving a huge challenge. first, the immediate needs of a lot of people. but also, potential conflicts with the traditional way of life. how have you been able to do what you've been able to do? >> tom: i was born in and brought up in a very strong pastoral background. we were really anti-anything about conservation. really anti, because one we had the perception that this is a government thing, this is about grabbing our land -- >> kamau: it probably doesn't help that a lot of that land is owned by white people, right? somebody else is owning our land. >> tom: initially. >> kamau: okay. >> tom: there's also a perception that conservations being driven by the white, and so it's not about the communities, it's not about us. it's about them. but you know, gradually, um, we came to realize that the approach that was being introduced was a community approach. ♪ >> faith: going back 13 years

back, there was one girl who made it to high school. and she's speaking english, she's dressing up, and the other girls are like, "you know what? i'd like to be her." and the more, and more, and more they've seen, go through high school, graduate, slowly by slowly they get to see the value themselves. education works very well. >> kamau: are there efforts for people in the community who couldn't afford to come in here to sort of see what's going on in here so they can have the -- >> wanjiku: yeah, we have a conservation education program here, with over 3,500 school children come on to lewa, free of charge, go around, get to see wildlife, because unless you can afford to go to national parks or to places like lewa, then you definitely wouldn't have the opportunity interact with wildlife. >> kamau: so we're headed towards the lions? is that what we're doing right now? >> karmusha: so now you can see

at the peak, you can just see something sticking out. that's a lion sitting. >> anthony: oh, i see. right next to the little tree. >> kamau: whoa. >> anthony: oh, there's a bunch of them. >> karmusha: yeah, yeah. if we're lucky, they might come down the hill. >> kamau: that's lucky? we define lucky in different ways. >> karmusha: they seem to be having their eyes on something. he's going to go left so we have a good position. >> kamau: hey, how you doing lion? ♪ so the lion is about 30 feet from us or so?

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♪ ♪ >> anthony: just outside the borders of lewa conservancy is a massai village known as the il ngwesi community range. they are working with lewa to not only embrace conservation

but also to maintain their way of life. >> kip: in maasai traditional way, we got our diets, which is meat, blood and milk. at least once in a while, they do blood tapping. >> anthony: to the maasai, the cow is a sacred animal. giver of all things. unlike the west, meat is not the primary interest. here, cattle are sustainable, a long-term asset, for milk, for cheese, and on special occasions, blood. straight from the tap. >> anthony: okay, here we go. all right, well done. >> anthony: annoying as hell for the cow, no doubt, but decidedly not fatal. it might, however, prove fatal for my colleague kamau, who unlike me, has never experienced this local beverage.

a warm jet of arterial blood into the gourd, add some thick, clotting milk, also from cow. shake, and down the hatch. >> kip: would you like to have a sip? >> anthony: yes, sure. just straight from here? >> kip: yeah. >> anthony: here we go. oh, you're going to like it. it's good. so delicious. >> anthony: and keep in mind the whole village is watching. and you are on tv. >> kamau: okay. i'm home. >> anthony: makes you strong. >> kamau: yeah. >> anthony: well done. >> kamau: thank you, thank you. ♪ >> anthony: working with the local maasai community is both

an absolute necessity, and the right thing to do. to displace and forever disrupt the people who've lived here forever, in favor of animals that wealthy white people want to take pictures of would be hideous and unconscionable. [ speaking in a foreign language ] >> anthony: this is happening elsewhere on the continent, but the people at lewa and il ngwesi are working very hard to find a better path. [ lela speaking foreign dialect ] >> kip: he's saying the meaning of the word "il n'gwesi." it's the people who survive by hunting and gathering. [ lela speaking foreign dialect ] >> kip: and hunting wasn't what we understand of hunting today. it was hunting for survival, for food. not for business, not for selling -- >> anthony: trophies. >> kip: trophies and stuff. >> anthony: jonathan kip is a maasai chief.

lela kinyaha is a maasai elder here at il ngwesi. >> anthony: was this an easy or a difficult transition? or was it imposed from outside? >> kip: the transition first is when the poachers or the sport hunting was happening, we think it was a western idea. >> anthony: yup. >> kip: or eastern or whatever. and we were not beneficial of it. until when an idea came from lewa and said, "well, we can turn wildlife conservation for the future of this land, conserve land for the future generations." i think they did what we say, you know, you teach a person how to fish, instead of providing them fish. so they taught us how to fish in introducing us to wildlife conservation. and from there, we are not being driven by lewa anymore, or any white person, or any ngo. lewa is still a great, great neighbor. so we need each other, but we

are not really dependent of each other anymore. we value the game, we value the animals, we know where we're heading to. ♪ >> anthony: and just like that, after months of drought throughout kenya -- rain. >> kamau: i was told that since i'm kamau from america, i brought the rain. >> kip: great, well done! thank you! if there was a maasai paper, the headline would be "rain." >> anthony: rain, yeah. ♪ ♪

♪ ♪ ♪

♪ >> anthony: who gets to tell the stories? this is a question asked often. the answer in this case for better or for worse is i do. at least this time out. i do my best. i look. i listen. but in the end, i know. it's my story, not kamau's, not kenya's or kenyans. those stories are yet to be heard.

♪ >> anthony: some places surprise you. even if you've been traveling nearly non-stop for 15 years like me, there are places that snap you out of your comfortable world view, take your assumptions and your prejudices, and turn them upside down. they lead you to believe that maybe there is hope in the world. senegal is one of those places. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪