♪ >> anthony: welcome to my place of dreams. my spirit house, a city of ghosts. ♪ ♪ ♪

♪ ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la

♪ ♪ >> anthony: hue, in central vietnam, is someplace i've never been before. but it's still vietnam, with all the things, the smells, the sounds, the details i love so much. first night in country, it's like sliding into a warm, deeply comforting, familiar bath. i've been all over vietnam, a place i feel a special connection to. my first love, a place i remain besotted with, fascinated by. so back in vietnam. one of my favorite places on earth and, uh, all of the things i need for happiness. low plastic stool, check. tiny little plastic table, check. oooh.

something delicious in a bowl, check. in this case a local specialty, com hen, clam rice. sweet, meaty little local clams out of their shells, tossed with a wild swirl of mung beans, white rice, spicy green chilies, crunchy roasted peanuts, fried pork rind, and cilantro. and a similar variation with rice noodles. that fish sauce with chilies in it, and ooh! that'll just singe your eyebrows off. let's throw some chilies in. hit with some hot clam broth, and you're on your way. i'm back. back in vietnam. shit-eating grin for the duration. a giddy, silly, foolish man, beyond caring. can of cold local beer.

huda, my preferred brand whenever in hue. ah. clams with pork cracklings. how could that not be good? this is the way so many of the great meals of my life have been enjoyed. sitting in the street, eating something out of a bowl that i'm not exactly sure what it is, scooters going by. this is so delicious. i feel like an animal. where have you been all my life? fellow travelers, this is what you want. this is what you need. this is the path to true happiness and wisdom. ♪ ♪

♪ ♪ located on the north and south banks of the perfume river in central vietnam, mountains behind, sea ahead, an arrangement determined by criteria both military and spiritual. for 143 years, hue was the seat of power for the nguyen dynasty, which ruled the entire country until the late 1800s when the french started taking power and land under their control. the french allowed the imperial throne to rule nominally the center of the country, until the end of world war ii in 1945.

hue has been celebrated for its dynastic architecture since the early 1800s. vast palaces, pagodas, and tombs. the center as well for the intellectual, artistic, culinary and religious life of the country. ♪ oh yeah, that's tempting. it's around here somewhere. this is dong ba market. and deep inside, somewhere in there, is what i want. my way of thinking, in the

hierarchy of delicious, slurpy stuff in a bowl, bun bo hue is at the very top. nguyen qui duc is an author and journalist who spent much of his childhood in hue. >> nguyen qui duc: if i'm gonna die, if i'm going to go to prison, they give me a last meal, this will be it. >> anthony: this will be it. >> nguyen qui duc: this will be it. >> anthony: let's do it, man. here, kim chau creates an elaborate broth of mixed bones scented with lemongrass, spice and fermented shrimp paste. at the bottom, rice noodles, garnished -- nay, heaped -- with tender slow-cooked beef shank, crabmeat dumplings, pigs' foot, and huyet, blood cake. garnished with lime wedge, cilantro, green onions, chili sauce, shredded banana blossoms and mung bean sprouts, it's a wonder of flavor and texture. the greatest soup in the world. look at that man. that is just unbelievable. >> nguyen qui duc: that's -- >> anthony: blood cake?

>> nguyen qui duc: blood cake. >> anthony: with the sauce. i want to see how much he put in there. >> nguyen qui duc: you gotta make it look really red in there. it has to be blood red. >> anthony: and the broth is wonderful. people are put on earth for various purposes. i was put on earth to do this. eat noodles, right here. >> nguyen qui duc: when i was a kid, we used to tell each other, do not take a date to go out to eat this stuff because you start sweating, your hair stick up -- >> anthony: really? i would definitely bring a date for this, because if she doesn't like this there's no hope of a relationship. >> nguyen qui duc: exactly. >> anthony: you know like if she said, "oh, i don't know, there's like, blood, there's icky stuff in there," that would be a relationship ender to me. i mean, i'm not kidding. >> nguyen qui duc: i mean, here you are, having in a market like this. but if she makes this in a place like new york or paris, it would be real haute cuisine. >> anthony: it's just i mean, this is as sophisticated and complex a bowl of food as any french restaurant.

it really is the, just the top of the mountain. how long has she been here? >> nguyen qui duc: she started out when she was 12. >> anthony: you live in a great country, man. any country that can produce this is a superpower as far as i'm concerned. man, i'm getting down to like the pepper residue at the bottom. how long does that broth have to simmer to get good? >> nguyen qui duc: it's an hour. >> anthony: wow! really? i would've guessed like 14 hours. mmm. happy, nice burny feeling on my lips. flop sweat, check. happy. so we can pretty much cancel the rest of the show. i'm -- i've achieved my happy zone, it's really all downhill from here. day win menu is here: five days. five deals. for fifteen dollars get a different deal every weekday til six pm

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♪ >> anthony: my oldest friend in vietnam, linh. originally assigned to translate, to guide, to escort, and to report on me back in 2000 when i first came to this country. linh, how are you buddy? >> linh: my, my brother! >> anthony: good to see you.

his responsibilities to his employers have never been an impediment to our friendship. we meet at duyen anh, where you pick your own seafood out of the tank, and you cook it yourself. you really do look exactly the same. you look good. >> linh: yeah? >> anthony: oh yeah. >> linh: you also the same. no trace of time on your face. >> anthony: dude, my hair is white. i have the pictures, i looked completely different in 2000. >> linh: people told me that all the seafood here are from the lagoon over here, dam sam. dam sam lagoon is one of the biggest ones in southeast asia. >> anthony: i'm going for some eel. seasoned with lemongrass, green chili, and pepper, drizzled with house special sauce, grill over charcoal, and dig in. >> linh: i have the picture with you. >> anthony: oh, you have some old photos? oh, my, look at me! come on. i look like my own son here, look at this. i look like i'm 30 years younger and that's, uh -- >> linh: my son, ming.

>> anthony: ming? >> linh: he's now 17. >> anthony: oh my god. >> linh: it has been 12 years. >> anthony: he's going to college soon. wow! oh this is at um, the island of uh, mister sang! >> linh: tuan chau island. in ha long bay. >> anthony: ah, hanoi. >> linh: hanoi, by the west lake. >> anthony: oh my god, look at that. >> linh: this -- >> anthony: we look cool. we totally look cool here. does everybody fall in the love with the country like i did? i came here and it just stole my heart, you know? >> linh: i think there's a very good meeting point, between vietnamese and america. >> anthony: yeah. >> linh: but, in the past, it was over. and now it's a new time. >> anthony: mmm! wow, that's great! dude that's pretty spicy. perfect with beer. >> linh: it stimulates more drinks. >> anthony: lobster from the south china sea.

give it a nice haircut tableside, and it's perfect. mmm! >> linh: sweet? >> anthony: sweet! just like i remember, back in nha trang. >> linh: ah, yeah. >> anthony: well, i'm a sentimental guy, linh. >> linh: sometimes at work, i try be serious and i just think about work. but i don't know why, when i meet you, i just think about drinking and getting something good to eat. one more cheer? >> anthony: good to see you again my friend. it's been a long time since my old friend and i met. a hell of a lot of road with this guy. one of the great joys of life is riding a scooter through vietnam. to be part of this mysterious, thrilling, beautiful

choreography. thousands upon thousands of people, families, friends, lovers. each an individual story glimpsed for a second or two in passing. sliding alongside, pouring like a torrent through the city. a flowing, gorgeous thing. as you ride, you not only see but overhear a hundred intimate moments in miniature. you smell wonderful unnamed things cooking, issuing from storefronts and food stalls. the sounds of beeping, laughing, announcements from speakers, the putt-putt and roar of a million tiny engines.

hue's place in history, long regarded as the heart of the imperial dynasty, changed forever during the vietnam war. ♪ in 1968, hue became the site of some of the most bitter fighting of the war. during the lunar new year, the tet holidays, when usually there was a cessation of hostilities, over 100 cities all over south vietnam were attacked by the north vietnamese and vc. hue quickly fell. you have seen these images. it was footage like this that turned finally a great part of the american public against the war. the u.s. marines fought house to

house to retake the city. a vicious three-and-a-half-week-long battle. eventually artillery and air support were called in. the city was saved. and of course, largely destroyed in the saving. the civilian population caught in the crossfire were equally devastated. the north vietnamese, to their enduring shame, had, while controlling the city, rounded up anyone seen as a potential enemy and either disappeared them away into unknown prisons, or killed them outright. most notoriously, when they massacred almost 3,000 people, rolling them, many of them still alive, into mass graves in and around hue. duc knows full well the horrors and heartbreak of that time. in his memoir, "where the ashes are: the odyssey of an american family," he captures the terror

of a 9-year-old boy. the son of a high-ranking south vietnamese civil servant caught up in the nightmare of war. where were you in 1968? >> nguyen qui duc: i was at the place where it's now a hotel. my parents were staying there. we were staying there. it was surrounded during the night, we didn't even know. my father looked out the window, just thought it was south vietnamese soldiers. everybody was surprised, and in those days we thought of the war as something happening out in the battlefields in the mountains, out in the countryside. and, all of a sudden you come here and there's the flag of the national liberation front. and to see that was a complete shock. so we stayed for a week, in the basement. when the american soldiers came, by that time they had marched my father away, the north vietnamese soldiers. we didn't know where he was taken to, and we had no idea whether he was alive or not.

my mother went out to the mass graves when they were discovered and she saw the bodies in there, and she was like, i can't go there and look for him. >> anthony: a lot of people died here. >> nguyen qui duc: you can't help thinking about these people, who died when they're young, who died for no reason, who just got caught in the firefights. we have the day of the dead here, the day of the wandering souls, and we honor those who are not buried within their home village and not taken care of, their spirits not taken care of. there are families here who don't have a death date, which is huge. a death anniversary in vietnamese is when you do the ceremonies, you pay attention to the dead. you can't do that if you don't know when they really died. you just assume those people are just never liberated spiritually. that they're stuck in that space. it was like that for my father.

because he was in prison, we had no news for him. you couldn't set up an altar. you just hoped that he was alive. 10, 12, 15, your friends are going out doing things. you would just have this weight on you that your father is somewhere in prison or in the jungles. and that stuff stayed with me for 40 years in my mind. i don't know how many vietnamese have that kind of experience. at the same time i come back to hue, my hometown, my family's hometown, and i'm glad people are alive, people are living, things are happening, things are changing. we need to let the country open up and let the people have a moment of enjoyment and have a better life. >> anthony: i mean, obviously i'm an outsider. but it just seems to me as a casual observer, that you can pretty much survive anything.

>> nguyen qui duc: that's what my brother reminds me when i used to get all upset about things happening in vietnam. he said, look, it survived 4,000 years. it will do okay. and when you ask me to be hopeful, i'm hopeful because it's a young country. it, it's a young population that's energetic. and that drives me, that gives me hope, that makes me young, that makes me want to believe in this country. and this town. such a wonderful place to be. and last year, i earned $36,000 in cash back. which i used to offer health insurance to my employees. what's in your wallet?

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♪ >> anthony: boi tran is a painter. and something of a throwback, an anomaly, a creature from another, earlier time in the life of the onetime imperial city. she lives in an area called thien an hill, in a magnificently restored compound. these traditional wooden houses were once part of the regal style, with sloped grooves to handle the rainy hue weather. but most importantly, they feature a garden at the center. which follows the eastern philosophy that all things

originate from a single source, and expand in all directions. since the loss of her beloved son, she's lived here. surrounded by her garden, and her art. occasionally she invites guests and friends. there's duc, writer and food blogger lan, art collector jean francoise hubert, and philippe damas. so, this is your home, also a gallery? >> yes, i design and my people work. >> anthony: she also cooks, magnificently, from a repertoire of imperial hue-era dishes numbering over 100. back in dynastic times, the emperors demanded variety -- in wives, of whom they would sometimes have over 100, and in food. the menus of the 19th century imperial palaces boasted new dishes every night.

small, flavorful, and beautifully presented. and that culinary tradition which gave hue its reputation as a food capital continues today. how much of that persists, those imperial roots, that uh, need for variety? >> nguyen qui duc: yes, the tradition has stayed and will stay forever here, to cook all these different things all the time. >> anthony: we start with bird's nest soup, a delicacy to which i am usually immune. this one is unusually flavorful. these are swallow's nests from high up on cliffs, near nha trang. they're soaked in water, cooked in chicken stock, and served with crabmeat. lotus seeds, a symbol of purity, nobility, and patience from a nearby lake. steam. crab roe is mixed with red onion, pepper, and seasoning and added to the soup. and simmered.

>> anthony: the symbolic and health aspects of many of these dishes, not to be overlooked. this is fantastic. lovely. how does hue differ from the rest of vietnam? >> jean-francois hubert: a wonderful architecture. and very quiet people. if you stay some time in hue, after some days you feel quiet. you take your time.

>> anthony: goi hue is a traditional dish that's seldom made these days because of its complexity and the time needed to do it right. a fish stock is made from ca bong, a fish from the perfume river. pineapples, onion, chilies, shallots and coriander. a salad of quickly cooked prawns, rice noodles, ginger, red chili, garlic and galangal. layer of rice noodle, banana flower, then the prawns, garnishes. the strained fish stock is brought to the table with the salad in separate bowls, and combined just before eating. >> lan hue: ooh. this spicy for you? >> anthony: no, it's good. >> lan hue: it is very spicy.

>> anthony: i love it. oh no, i like it. what i found when i first came to this part of the world, vietnam in particular, uh, my palate changed. i needed an elevated level of chilies and heat. much of vietnamese cooking abides by principles of yin and yang, heat and cold. this one, a lobster dish with five spices, balances the coldness of the lobster, with the heat of the spices. red onion, ginger, lemongrass, and chilies are added to the boiling water to cook the lobster. once the lobster's cooked, it's presented in a bowl of lime leaves, and the stock is poured over it. whoa! that's beautiful. we're getting into this with our hands, i'm guessing. i like this. it's beautiful. >> lan hue: the winter here is unbelievable. it's very cold and wet.

that's why we have chili to keep us warm. >> anthony: boi tran spoils all of us with a succession of dishes. but the past, as it often does in a place like this, intrudes. >> nguyen qui duc: hue, it's dealt with a lot of suffering. the people in hue are very withdrawn in some ways. >> jean-francoi hubert: smiling, but of course they remember everything. they have to remember the war in 1968. >> nguyen qui duc: i was visiting my grandfather's house, and i got goosebumps. because i knew during the war in 1968 lots of people were killed, and they were buried on all the sidewalks there. and i walk around there and i feel it. it's dark, it's somber. and the history is there.

>> lan hue: my mom, she never wanted me to go home after like, 10:00. she get angry if i go home at 11:00 or something. that scared me, so normally when i go home at night um, i try to go home very early. >> nguyen qui duc: riding a boat along the river, you sort of feel there are things living in the water, and the trees, and the darkness out there. d was in. because of smoking. but we still had to have a cigarette. had to. but then, we were like. what are we doing? the nicodermcq patch helps prevent your urge to smoke all day. nicodermcq. you know why, we know how.

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♪ >> anthony: know your enemy, they say. know who it is you're facing out there. who are they? why did they fight? what are they willing to endure in the furtherance of their cause? these, one would think, are simple questions useful in any conflict. meet the enemy. okay, he was only an infant during our 9-year-long war. but ngu quoc thanh's experience should be instructive.

♪ >> anthony: in 1965, the united states initiated a sustained bombing campaign called rolling thunder, hoping to destroy an elusive enemy in villages like this one. vinh moc, which was less than 20 miles from forward u.s. marine fire bases, just south of the dmz. this is where thanh was born. as the target of frequent bombings, the village of vinh moc moved underground. up to 100 feet down into darkness. >> anthony: the villagers carved over 5,000 feet of tunnels out of the earth, creating a complex

that would house all ninety families of vinh moc. 13 entrances and exits, leading from the inland to the beach. showing me through the labyrinth is pham thach. >> pham thach: be careful. >> anthony: born in hue during wartime, she's since moved to the dmz to work as a guide. how did they dispose of all of this earth and rock without revealing the tunnels? >> pham thach: the craters. you know, craters were everywhere on the -- like the landscape on the moon. >> anthony: right. >> pham thach: and you know the dirt of the craters all so fresh, look new. so they don't need to hide it, just leave them there. >> anthony: this was the maternity ward were thanh was born. and where did people sleep? >> pham thach: they have sleeping places, just holes like this, but smaller. two square meters only. >> anthony: right. >> pham thach: just enough to put a bamboo bed. >> anthony: how long did it

take to build? >> pham thach: 20 months digging. >> anthony: 20 months of digging. >> pham thach: by hand. >> anthony: by handle. >> pham thach: with shovels and hoes and all up, you know, the farmers, they dug with with their tools. >> anthony: right. >> pham thach: under the bombing. >> anthony: while the bombing's going on they're down here digging this out. >> pham thach: yeah, yeah. >> anthony: wow. how many children here? >> anthony: where, how did they play? >> anthony: so much of the time you're in total darkness? >> pham thach: yeah. >> anthony: you don't even see, you can't see your mother.

>> pham thach: some people, they say that even when the parents are, you know, feeding the children, they need to touch their face and find the mouth and feed them. >> anthony: wow. children played here. but people also emerged from these tunnels to kill or cripple americans. to shoot them, to plant booby traps. and that's what they did. six years in darkness. and at the end of the war, the people of vinh moc emerged from that darkness. and what did they do?

what was that like? after living in darkness for so long, what was it like to come out and be able to spend the rest of his life in the sun? >> anthony: thank you! wow, ready. >> anthony: looks kind of like a mackerel. mmm, mmm, good. >> pham thach: good? >> anthony: yeah. >> pham thach: really?

>> anthony: yes. last question. hypothetical. if the french or the japanese or the americans suddenly decided they wanted, for some reason, to come back, would he fight? >> anthony: oh! >> pham thach: that's different! >> anthony: different! >> pham thach: they're all welcome if they're tourists. ♪

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♪ >> anthony: there are particular sounds that come with waking up in rice country. at tam sang lagoon, however, early morning is the end of the workday. as fishermen who've been out on the water tie up close to shore and sell their catch in the early mist. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪

i'm meeting up with lan, for what's she's promised will be a very tasty afternoon snack. quan banh o le is set back from a quiet lane in the outskirts of town. it's a neighborhood place specializing in this, banh beo, little pancake-like things made of rice flour, steamed in molds, and topped with crispy fried shallots and cassava paste, and crumbled fried shrimp. so, show me how you eat this. what do we uh -- >> lan hue: i had this when i was a little girl. so you make, try to pick it up like this. >> anthony: right, i got it. just cut around the edge here. >> lan hue: i feel so clumsy, it -- it's been a while! >> anthony: fold it over?

>> lan hue: no, it's just -- >> anthony: oh, it just -- mmm! oh, this is great. >> lan hue: this is so nostalgic to me. when i was younger, every noon my mom asked me to take a noon nap. and say, if you take a noon nap then i will buy you some banh. and i would sit there in front of our house waiting for her. >> anthony: waiting! >> lan hue: yeah, waiting for her. with a dish, an empty dish waiting for her. she would come and then my mom would buy it for me. you do have the style. >> anthony: yeah. >> lan hue: at the end of the meal we see who eats the most. like -- >> anthony: oh, so you have a stack, that's hue style? good, i'm glad i'm fitting in here. ooh, what are they eating in the banana leaf? are we having one of those too? >> lan hue: yep. we have everything. >> anthony: oh good, okay. i don't want to leave anything out here. oh yeah, there's banh bot loc, made of cassava or tapioca, with pork and more shrimp from the lagoon. wrapped like a tamale in banana leaf, then steamed. >> lan hue: so, even opening the

thing is also an art in vietnam. we still learn how to wrap the thing and you know, learn how to unwrap the thing. so unwrapping a thing is also an art. >> anthony: right. i'm watching you. >> lan hue: you're doing it right, you are perfect. i think you're an expert. maybe the life before you, you was born in hue. >> anthony: in a past life? yes. >> lan hue: yeah. >> anthony: so this is shrimp? >> lan hue: mmm-hmm. >> anthony: pick it up and dip, right? mmm! very nice. >> lan hue: mmm-hmm. nice. >> anthony: oh, they're pretty too. look at that. >> lan hue: banh loc is very honest, you can see through, what's inside. >> anthony: you call this type of eating an choy. >> lan hue: an choy is like for fun or playing. >> anthony: recreational eating. >> lan hue: yeah. >> anthony: so it's not a main meal, it's a snacking. >> lan hue: mmm-hmm. yeah.

>> anthony: banh ram it is a delicious marriage of fried and glutinous sticky rice dumplings. it starts with frying the paste in cooking oil. then, unpeeled shrimp are stuffed into dough. place the chewy part with crunchy part and sprinkle with chopped fried shrimp. >> anthony: oh wow. oh, that's -- that looks awesome. what's -- what is underneath here? >> lan hue: rice, uh, rice paste. >> anthony: rice paste, ah, okay. >> lan hue: but on the top, this thing, at the back is um, fried thing. >> anthony: mmm. oh that's great. ooh, it's nice and crispy and greasy. i love it. anybody would love this. it's just amazing. >> lan hue: mmm-hmm. it's a combination between the soft, and -- >> anthony: the soft and the crispy, crunchy. delicious! i don't keep track of regrets.

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>> anthony: last ride, a few miles out of town, whip across the rice paddies. just getting from here to there in this part of the world, it's pure pleasure.

>> anthony: i'm meeting my friends for a country lunch. what's the specialty of this restaurant? you're saying chicken in baked in clay? >> ha pham: yes. >> anthony: another friend from the past, ha pham, linh, of course, lan and a new friend from hue, thanh. a last meal, some good-byes. >> lan hue: i have a question. >> anthony: yeah. >> lan hue: what make you stay so long in hue? because normally, travelers, they come to hue, they stay only one or two nights and that's it. >> anthony: really? >> huong: what's your impressions about it? >> anthony: it's very -- it's really -- it's very laid back. >> lan hue: mmm-hmm. >> anthony: the food's great. it's pretty, there's a lot to see. it's a perfect place to go, if you want to take your time. it's beautiful to me. food's coming! out here, there are a lot of dishes like this.

fill a chicken with lemongrass, wrap it in banana leaves, then cover it with the muddy clay from the nearby rice paddies. cook in the coals or a pile of burning straw, if you like. unwrap carefully, tableside. section with shears. >> lan hue: it smells so good. makes me hungry. >> anthony: serve with a little lime and salt, maybe some chili sauce. squash, bitter melon, and morning glory greens for veggies. mmm! that's good. some unexpected last words. >> ngu quoc thanh: on behalf of people of hue, thank you for your coming. >> anthony: thank you for having me. >> ngu quoc thanh: we wish you would have a blessed trip, safe and sound and success. >> anthony: thank you. >> ngu quoc thanh: i learned many things from american. i still remember some poems such as, "stopping by woods on a snowy evening." i can sing it. >> anthony: please.

>> ngu quoc thanh: yeah? sometime drink a lot of beer i forgot. whose woods are these are i think i know. this house is in the village though. he cannot see me stopping here to, watch these woods fill up with snow. my little horse must think it queer to stop without a farmhouse near. between the woods and frozen lake the darkest evening of the year. he gives his harness bell a second to ask if there's some mistakes. the only other sound's of easy wind and downy flake. and something like. >> anthony: bravo! >> ngu quoc thanh: however, yeah. >> linh: so, we wish you have a good trip, have a good flight. will you come back after you return to new york? >> anthony: oh, i'll come back to vietnam, always. cheers everybody, and thank you, all of you, for all your help. >> lan hue: cheers all the time.

>> anthony: this is who came out of the ground. out of the jungle, the darkness, when it was all over. and this is what they did. ♪

♪ [ horns honking ] >> anthony: i remember the moment i first realized i'd been living my whole life in black and white.