white house. you could also say they brought bling back to the white house. >> the whole image of nancy reagan and ronald reagan are hollywood fixtures. both people who had been in front of a camera, around a camera understood the power of image. >> i have an idea for another picture. i've got the chain saw. and you're blocking me off. stopping me. >> they are from california. they have no cares or worries. half their kids don't even speak to them, but they are having a wonderful time with their rich friends. they enjoyed the good life and that was really clear. >> the reagans were all about being stars. they understood incredibly well how to use image. and how to communicate through image. which is really what fashion is about. what is this dress going to tell the watching world about what this administration stands for and what this country stands for.

>> it was the reagan white house that had an excessive amount of state dinners and they were all celebrity studded. it was hollywood's east coast home. >> i remember standing in the line after i was presented and there was martha graham and ginger rogers. i'm like i was 20 years old. but talking about style and elegance and presence and icons. >> that brought a kind of attention to white house events that don't belief the white house has had since the kennedys. >> nancy reagan personified this new american er air stock ra si rooted in the party and in southern california and that was rooted in hollywood. >> nancy reagan was a rebuttal of what had been going on in the '70s. i think of her in chanel suits and tailored and elegant.

>> decked out in having her own big hair and lots of jewels and being a movie star. she knew what to do. she had been working with stylists and makeup artists so she knew how to look grand. >> she was instrumental in turning red from being the color of communism to being the color of republicanism. she had those beautiful red dresses and that certainly became part of a kind of reagan look. >> the reagan model of let's all be brand and beautifully dress ed and at least look like we spent a lot of money certainly had a huge impact on how americans wanted to dress and how they wanted to live. >> the '80s had this extravagance, this

excessiveness, everyone wanted to be shiny and wear sequins and had big hair and excessive makeup. >> jewelry was big, earrings were big, the bigger the hair the smaller the hips look. volume was in with the big puffy sleeves and the big poof skirts. >> the shoulder pads were bigger than the new york giants shoulder pads with nipped in waist. >> it was about things being over scale. it was vulgar, in a way. >> as someone who suffered through the 1980s, we really lost our way from a style perspective. ♪ >> you think about what's popular on television. "dallas", "dynasty", these are programs about families with a lot of money and they are not ashamed to show it. >> they are caricatures but not that much of caricatures.

>> everything was just this over the top glamour. they are just lounging around in evening gowns all the time. and you couldn't have had a better villain than jones collins. >> are you insane? >> no, perfectly sane. take this junk and your blond tramp and get out of my home. >> everything is being held up by having a lot of money is the answer to everything. that's how you need to live. >> i sell very great condominiums. >> donald trump makes a lot of money and makes sure everybody knows it. a yacht, mansion, bigger mansion, airline, two casinos, bigger casino. >> that's really incredible. there's nothing like this place. >> the trumps were able to achieve the real thing and have real jewels and really big hair and be really gross and vulgar.

>> everything was gold, big, loud, more and more is more is more. >> it was like they were at a costume party and we were all watching it. we weren't really invited to the costume party. i-van na trump wore those clothes as unflattering to her. also her hairdo which was like a drip castle and big julie and it was as if some very shrewd salesperson said, darling, you've got to wear this. and she just looked absurd. >> trump is a pure 1980s figure. the mogul who goes far by just being brash and get iting his ne put on as many buildings as humanly possible. >> trump tower is an aes ccess the '80s. it's basically gold plated on the outside. and they have gold toilets. >> in the '80s people were

talking about money in a way that wasn't poo-pooing it or saying i'm going to do something meaningful now and one day i'll have enough money to buy a house. i want a jaguar, i want guchy this, money and i want it now. >> there was a sort of rebellion against the traditional american way of life, which was to be discreet. >> instead of saying let me get the car, people would say let me get the beamer. my chanel is in the the other room. i really saw a kind of dependence on those labels to validate one's existence. hey. i heard you're moving into a new apartment. yeah, it's pretty stressful. this music is supposed to relax me, though. ♪ maybe you'd mellow out a bit if you got geico to help you

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you can be a preppy because it is a media sweep iing the country. thanks in large part to lisa, the author of the prep quit handbook. >> in 1980, i had a meeting at publishing and they were looking for someone to write a book about preppies. i had to tell america what preppies were. people would say where did you find people who look like that? i said, well, you just insulted owl awl my friends and brothers. so we thought only a few people graduated would ever be interested in the book. and the book was sold out within

a week of its appearance. it told the secrets of a way of life that had never been spilled like that. the book was absolutely tongue ask cheek. the sub title was "look, muffy, a book for us." i was trying to make funny something that could be construed as something very obnoxious. but people took it quite seriously as their self-help. >> growing up in the 1980s where style is all over the map, i was having trouble connecting with something. and so when i saw what was considered preppy style, i was like, that's close. that's kgeting there. >> if you wear 100% cotton shirt and a pair of khakis and a pair of loafers, you look like you know what you're talking about. it's sort of an overall

improvement of one's prospects and style. >> whether it's the polo grounds of connecticut or the yacht clubs of cape cod, lauren's true talent lies in creation of a certain lifestyle and selling the wardrobe to match. >> american style conjures up a democracy of taste and ralph lauren is the most american american. >> one of the things the american aesthetic about is taking lots of despaired elements and mixing them together. like our own culture. ralph was the first on so many fronts in terms of just showing somebody you can wear a sport jacket with a pair of jeans. you never saw a european pull clothes together like that. >> ralph embraces everything that is american. whether it's the old west, whether it's nantucket and cape

cod, whether it's san francisco society, whether it's beverly hills, in one way day he wants to be on safari in africa and the next day he wants to be in the board room on wall street. >> i work with him and he created movies in his mind. he was probably the best movie director in the history of hollywood that never directed a movie. >> having parents who were immigrants, they really come to embraced this country and the freedom they have in america and ralph was one of those people. >> he wasn't just selling clothes. he was selling a lifestyle. he was selling a dream. >> the message from his world about the difference between style and fashion and the idea that one should have an arm's length relationship with fashion because fashion is something that change cans, r his point of view is you should be trying to buy clothes that are going to be with you for a long time. >> he never compromises. he's all about integrity. integrity of product, integrity

of manufacture, and integrity of detail. >> in a time when people in this nation were less competent about how they were dressing, they really wanted to be led. i'm head to toe ralph lauren. people will accept me. i must be okay. >> i asked my friend, who do you think is the most influential designer of the last 50 years. people came up with armani or a whole number of people. who do you think has more clothes being worn that's five or ten years old? if you ask that question, there's no other answer but ralph lauren. >> you want to know what becomes me and my calvins? nothing. >> the calvin klein brook shields ads were revolutionary in terms of making overt

sexuality part of advertising. >> he found the sex in things. which is such a touchy subject for americans. and he hit that button every damn time. >> calvin klein's advertising was scandalous. >> there would be an ad for calvin klein and there weren't many clothes involved but made you want buy them. >> this underwear ad stopped traffic in times square. that was revolutionary. this image of masculine sexuality was just absolutely galvanizing. sudden list suddenly, men's underwear became a signifier. it wasn't like buying milk at the grocery store. >> it made every man, whether they look like that or not, feel like if i buy that underwear, i'll look like that guy.

>> i was head of design at calvin klein. we were in the studio and had long johns and we cut them off. he thought it was amazing. david was visiting. he goes i have somebody that would be incredible. he sends over mark wallburg. that was the beginning of the boxer brief. >> calvin klein deserves some credit for making objectify indication a two-way street. women had been and still are objectified, but now men are. >> this was the first time that it was done in such a mass advertising way. >> the whole idea of a man taking care of his body, looking good, caring about the way he looked and the way he was groomed broke the mold for how goods could be advertised and how far the envelope would be pushed.

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television came along and gave us the gift of sight. >> in the 1980s deregulation opened up a wild west for media environment, which is cable television. >> ladies and gentlemen, rock and roll.

>> newest component of your stereo system. >> i remember the day that mtv launched because everybody was so eager for it that people were throwing parties. >> there was such a fur investigator for the new video and you had to see it and what are they wearing and what the are the backup dancers wearing? >> music videos allowed people to interpret fashion out of this paris, new york, london ecosystem. it took control away from the magazines and gave it to a whole new legion of creatives. >> style came to be increasingly more important and the artist who took advantage is is michael jackson. >> jackets from the thriller was a super seller. >> you think about someone like

prince. he's pushing lines around race and gender. >> the hair of the hair bands was huge. >> most of them laugh about that period of time for sure. >> i think of blondy in in a new wave and an interesting marriage of commercialism and art and fashion. >> and that revolutionized the way people listened to music because now there was a visual component. >> mtv came about and whether it was cindy lauper or madonna, the fashion business followed. mtv was it at the time. that really, to me, had the biggest impact on '80s style. >> are you the designer of your look, your styhairstyle? >> oh, yeah. do you think someone else could come up with this? >> madonna is a creature of the '80s and of music video because that's where she created this

chameleon fashion persona. >> she was trained as a dancer, not as a musician. >> interesting to watch her start taking so many influences from the new york club scene. and turning that into madonna style that then got emulated by girls everywhere. she would wear mesh over a bra. you had the desperately seeking susan period. you saw her lingerie. >> it's this play on her catholic/italian upbringing. that was very much come iing ouf punk. you were mixing up all kinds of things that didn't fit together. >> artists like madonna never would have come to the forefront of culture unless she had a platform like mtv. >> madonna resinated because she helped to break stereotypes of feminism, female identity and

female sexuality, in particular. >> this was shocking in the 1980s, the free wheeling sexuality that you see when she's doing the performance of "like a virgin" and writhing on the floor. this was shocking to people. when she's talking about abortion. >> in the 1980s you wouldn't have a conversation at your dinner table about feminism, but you'd have a huge debate about madon madonna. >> madonna had her own interpretation that wasn't so concerned with trend and that was deeply personal. >> these mass cultural artists, people who challenge style and establish sensibility, they were the people who pushed forward the conversations on identity. >> she's been compared today to jackie robinson. vanessa williams from it new york who has broken one of nation's last remaining racial barriers. she's the first black miss america.

>> when vanessa williams was crowned miss america, we were, like, what? it was awesome. we were very proud. we were excited. she was beautiful. she was classy. she looked like a beauty queen. >> vanessa williams becoming misamerica was like obama becoming president of the united states. >> the first black anything is a big deal. but a miss america? >> being a black person, our beauty was never acknowledged because of the color of our skin. >> you hear it throughout time, black is beautiful. she validated that. >> it was a huge honor and responsibility. women who were elderly came up to me and thought they'd never see it in their lifetime. >> it's about time we had a beautiful black girl representing new york city.

>> women that were my age cheered along because they knew that there was a color barrier that had been broken. >> i was thrilled actually. i couldn't stop my heart from beating. >> since the mid-to late 1950s, the miss america beauty pageant is the standard of american feminine beauty. you can understand how someone like vanessa williams as incredibly beautiful as she is and was would still arouse resentment largely in racial terms. >> yes, a barrier was open, but then there were people that were my own african-american co contemporaries that said it's not good enough. she's not dark enough. she looks like he's mixed. it's not really a win for us. that was actually more painful than the racism that i kind of anticipated from white people because this is my own community. >> any time you have a cultural

shift and part of that involves the question of race, there's going to be some vocal strident pushback. >> death threats. i had snipers on top of rooftops when i would do outdoor parades. one parade i couldn't even be outside. i had to be inside the car. because there was threats. >> she may have been accepted in terms of the pageant and the title she won, but that didn't mean she was accepted throughout society. it's never a good idea in this society to be the first black anything. >> it is one thing to face up to a mistake that one makes in youth, but it's almost totally devastating to have to share it with the american public and the world at large as both a human being and as miss america. >> they took away her crown.

them pictures ant nothing. >> it is not surprising that the first african-american miss america would be dethroned after the emergence of photos that many people considered inappropriate. >> a lot of satisfaction in the scan cdal and taking the crown away because they were able to say told you so. >> as we break barriers, we break hearts. people can't live with the fact that somebody who doesn't look like them is all of a sudden breaking the images that they have placed before them. >> it's amazing how far we have come as a country and then it's amazing how many times we take ten-year step backwards. of prot. that's why they're my go-to snack while i get back in shape.

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the drug epidemic is as dangerous as any terrorist. it's serious. it's an em tick and can kill. >> black cities were dealing with a lot. there was a lot of social marginalization. this was it reagan's conservative america. and there was an entrenched gap between the rich and the poor. >> it was the haves and the have nots.

it was great reagan years. i said we were, like, man, i can't tell. >> right now, all around us and so compelling, it's a music that's all beat, strong beat and talk. it's rap music and it sounds like this. ♪ >> the shugar hill gang song ". rapper's delight" might be the most important hip hop song. not just because it was the first. although that's a big part of it. i remember how excited we all were. it helped young burgeoning rappers like us and allowed us to start dreaming. hip hop was the authentic expression of a group of people who didn't have a voice in any other way. >> they saw it as a form of art. but also as a powerful means of self-expression and as a means of visibility.

from a segment of the population that was largely invisible. >> the power of rap in hip hop becomes where the protest movement comes from and it's about speaking one's heart to oppression. >> so much of the energy of hip hop is about inscribing yourself into culture. whether that's using music to establish your identity and boast and let people know who you are and what your skills are whether that's through dancing, djing or rapping. >> when you talk about hip hop and style, the beginning is the group run dmc. they had some cool songs, but what was really cool about them was their style. the glasses that they wore, you're into the frame game, these are legendary. but also black leather and they made a famous song called my

adidas, the shell toe is in some ways the legendary shoe throughout hip hop culture. >> you had oversized clothes, but a lot of big chains and gold teeth. all of that was the kind of excessive style. >> what you're trying to put forth and portray is confidence, strength, affluence. >> this look first was mocked, but believe me, it was picked up by high fashion early on. they had the big gold chains, only now they were double c's on them. >> probably was the most influential style change in american fashion. big logos became very important. >> welcome back. we're here hanging out on 125th street. >> ll cool j, the fat boys.

>> dapper dan is a new york legend. >> our thought plan was probably around mid-'84, '85. i had had to come up with something that was unique and real. i said a print on leather, which nobody else was doing. i think that would be a fete thomasal thing to do. >> the fabric, shom of the shapes ask it was underground. none of it was approved. >> he started making clothes that the companies themselves hadn't thought of doing yet. and he made this incredibly powerful, really post modern look. >> eventually, the outfits and the look and the music all that

was popular at the same time. >> the way that dan used brands, fed the kind of rapper culture that was happening at that time and coming out of harlem. >> it goes back to that hip hop culture wanting to be exclusive. you wanted to get an outfit from dapper dan because nobody else had it. >> the new designer at gouchi fwouound one of these and remad the same garment. he's now ripped off the rip off. and it got in touch with dan and had a collaboration together and sponsored his shop and he's become very popular again. zack.

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sglmpx they were dealing with the situation. there were lots of people who wanted no part of jane fonda, they said i want to look like her. she looks great. i can relate to her. this happened right at the time when the vcr and visdeos starte coming out. >> suddenly we have workout clothes. and women are out on the streets not going to workout but wearing only leg warmers, wearing sneakers everywhere. you think what's going on? >> of course, you had to have a leotard. you probably had some sort of tights. you might have even had a pair of briefs over it. you might have had a belt. you have leg warmers.

there were even like, god help us, the headbands. the cut of the leotard just kept getting high er and higher and higher up on the hip as women tried to adhere to a new, fitter ideal. >> what's interesting about exercise is it used to be for centuries your clothes would create the shape. the corset would squeeze you into certain shapes. then as clothes showed off more of your body, you couldn't rely on the clothes to push the fat around. you had to do something to get rid of the fat. >> i consider us a team, tes. as such, we have a uniform. they noticed the dress. they notice the woman. >> as women are going into the workforce, at somewhat higher

levels, they are looking for clothes to make them look like they could be the boss rather than the secretary. >> the power suit of the '80s was comprised of a strong shoulder jacket that was paired with a pencil skirt or a pair of pants. so it was basically what would a man wear if he was a woman. >> this was a time when woman were adopting masculine traits because masculinity is so inextrickically correlated to power there were no female role models in corporate america. >> when we think about the '80s power suit, it is melanie griffith in working girl. shoulders and rather masculine in a manner of speaking. donna karan was the antidote to that. >> women may wear high fashion but they are designers. now the the leader among american women fashion et designers with a $30 million a

year business. >> i'm a woman who works. and most working women were wearing suits, shirts and ties. and that wasn't really me. i had an idea. pieces and really simple. >> the seven easy pieces revolved around a center piece that is a body suit. there is a skirt and a tie. there's a draiped cape of sorts. there is a pant and they are all made out of jersey, either wool or silk. so everything has a wonderful stretch. >> it was separate on a very sophisticated level. you can mix and match them. you could travel with them. >> her seven ease is is is sit pieces were created for all you need to feel secure and confident. >> we have a new power dressing that is distinctly feminine and quite frankly very alluring. >> they are owning their gender.

>> i think i was a shock to working women. you know that you could feel sen yule and comfortable and tailored and day to night. if you're a working woman, you have no time to keep changing your clothes. it's tough. i don't want to worry what am i going to wear to work today. you have to get to work, say hello to the kids, and then be able to go from work, out. >> donna karan, very important, female designers make clothes for women. they think about the body and the woman and the comfort. i did, donna did. >> it was the perfect time iingd the perfect moment. women loved it and embraced it. >> the next thing i know i'm in bergdorf and my seven pieces are

in the windows and it was an amazing success. i didn't expect it. i really didn't. >> i say there are three similar moments in 20th century fashion. each one was created by a woman. chanel, behold, the power of the five-dollar bill! thank you, dad. you're welcome, family. what would we do without you? i shudder to wonder. at pizza hut, we're a five-dollar lineup of your favorites for just a lincoln each.

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in the '80s mens clothes had an ibm culture. big corporations were mandating white shirts, blue suit, red-type ties. on wall street, you had a kind of maverick breed that did a little bit of their own thing. people in the investment world made money. they wanted to look like they made money and in those days the way to look like you made money was to wear tailored clothing and maybe suspenders. always like similymbols of havi made, something you couldn't buy ready to wear. wall street had always been an interesting place because at some point, people make enough money and can dress the way they want to dress. >> when a few, lose a few but

you keep on fighting. and if you need a friend, get a dog. >> when i did the wall street movie, i went to visit michael douglas on his upper west side apartment. i was wearing what i was typically wearing in those days, which was a double breasted suit, horizontal-type shirt and handkerchief and he looked and said yeah, that's exactly how i want to dress. it was easy in a sense. >> money is lost and made, it's simply transferred. >> we made him a wardrobe that a dresser would wear. on some cases the shirts were bolder and patterns stronger just so on camera they would read that way. the ring, what kind of ring he was going to wear. those were all chosen with thought in mind of how to again project this guy who could do whatever he wanted and was holding to nobody. somehow it hit such a nerve, we had people coming in from europe, from california who

literally just wanted to look like gordon gecko. intimidating, strong. and they said they wanted [ bleep ] clothes. >> for lack of a better word is good. bre greed is right. greed works and greed you mark my words, will not only save paper but that other malfunctioning corporation called the usa. thank you very much. [ applause ] >> in the film, gordon gecko is saying basically look, i'm rich, and i'm not ashamed of the fact that i'm rich, and you should want to be rich, too, and if you really want to be rich, you should follow my lead. this in a lot of ways summarizes aspects of the 1980s as ego driven pursuit of fame, status, wealth and material possessions. it's sort of capitalism run a

muck. >> in trading rooms on wall street, there was panic. >> the stock market went into a free fall. >> the worst one-day deck klili ever. >> the crickehickens coming hom roost. >> we get hedge fund operators and a phony company and people piratesie rate -- piratesing th and ways to circumvent the law. >> we give a 25% reduction over three years. >> regan used optimism as an oxygen. just tell people things are great and people will believe it. the problem with it is there is a callusness to regan that is the feel-good smile he always projecte

projected. >> in the '80s there was a lot of i want this, i'm as good as you and i'm bigger than you and i got this and gucci, gucci, gucci. >> people convey political id s ideas, positions, strategies through style. >> the '80syouth culture is almost always music culture. >> music videos, revolutionize presentation of music. >> hip-hop was thought to be a fad that would pass, but its influence is profound throughout culture in america and eventually across the globe. >> sexual and gender dynamics are becoming much more complicated as both men and women for different reasons are exploring different aspects of the sex gender. >> the cold war over, the sky was the limit. we were number one. we were the world's only super power. the currents that existed in the

'80s were suddenly not there and i american fashion didn't know what it wanted to be. style is how you project yourself. >> it's about coming into stores like this and finding your favorite thing to put together. >> it's places you go to eat and people you hang out with and magazines you read. it's a lifestyle. >> it's about creating something that's your own and saying here i am, look at me today. >> by the '90s and 2000s, things have become increasingly less formal. >> she shows you it's not about the dress. it's about the woman that wears it. it's become a lot more free form. >> hello, lover. >> style no longer came from new york o