'80s were suddenly not there and i american fashion didn't know what it wanted to be. style is how you project yourself. >> it's about coming into stores like this and finding your favorite thing to put together. >> it's places you go to eat and people you hang out with and magazines you read. it's a lifestyle. >> it's about creating something that's your own and saying here i am, look at me today. >> by the '90s and 2000s, things have become increasingly less formal. >> she shows you it's not about the dress. it's about the woman that wears it. it's become a lot more free form. >> hello, lover. >> style no longer came from new york or hollywood.

>> no one is saying you must appear this particular way. >> we're inclusivity era that raised the age, gender, size. >> american style is becoming very diverse. >> fashion is becoming much more accessible in every way. ♪ ♪

after the '80s excess had to return to simplicity in the '90ths. >> the '90s seemed no not have a style after the '80s. >> we as a nation were dictated to big brands and names until the mid-90s. it was confusing because we hadn't been in a position to make decisions like main stream or non-conformest. it was an american style of crisis and a crisis of identity. who are we? ♪ ♪ >> in the early '90s, bill clinton, governor of arkansas was running against george h.w. bush for president. >> some of the things that he did like playing the saxophone

on arsenio hall was performing for the people nobody did in the past. >> 41 was a generation when presidents were disconnected from popular culture. you wouldn't imagine him appearing on any talk show. so clinton was able to make himself appear to be cool and connected to the culture in ways that his older opponents were not. >> we liked this guy. we came across as somebody that was concerned about the hood. >> there was a high hope that he was the triumph of something new. >> on this day, the american people have voted to make a new beginning. >> in politics, you want to talk about change and change means a new generation, new styles, new fashions, new energy and bill

canto clinton exuded that. >> hello, this is hillary clinton. i want to thank you for letting me speak with you about solving our nation's health care crisis. >> traditionally, first ladies were expected to be trophies. they were not considered individuals who would have their own opinions unique to themselves. >> hillary, though, was just as strong, just as articulate, just as committed to causes as bill. >> i suppose i could have stayed home and baked cookies and had teas but what i decided to do is fulfill my profession, which i entered before my husband was in public life. >> america was not ready for a working first lady. america wanted a first lady who bakes cookies and when she said she doesn't bake cookies, everybody went crazy. >> she faced a very sharp

backlash. >> i regret that anybody would have thought i was putting any other woman down. women need to have some sense of solidarity to respect the choices each of us make. >> hillary clinton thought her work should speak for itself. >> hillary's style while she was first lady was distinctly unstylish. she didn't have the attitude and interest that somebody like a jackie o. had. >> she thought i'll wear what i want to wear that makes me happy and whatever but there is no whatever when you're a woman in the public eye. >> hillary rodham clinton has taken heat as first lady so a poll said what do americans want in a first lady. 59% say she should not only dress appropriately but fashionly. >> she was criticized to wear a skirt or pants. >> i'm read an article that stated she was indecisive because of how many times she

changed her haircut. come on. can she have a little fun? >> she drew a lot of fire that's really sexist. when women show they are am wish show -- ambitious, the culture takes issue with that. >> this is something that stuck with her throughout her long political career in the public eye. ♪ ♪ >> people gravitated towards oprah because she was a self made person. she gained her identity because of the force of her personality and her vision, and that spoke to american women. >> there is one threat running through each show we do, it's the message that you, you are not alone. >> she allowed people to talk about their problems and we didn't really do that in america. and she herself then shared things that she had gone through that were similar so it was breaking down the walls.

>> can i have a kleenex to get the river running under my armpits. >> women were watching on their couch and realized there was other people to relate to them. >> oprah's show tapped into people that weren't the pope. there was none of those. >> it's a challenge. >> women who were incredibly influenced by the things that she would talk about on her show when she had my favorite things, where she would talk about the things she loved and she would often give away these products to her audience and in doing so, every time she would mention a product, its value would massively rise in the marketplace. this started to become known as the oprah effect. >> she was really a champion for things that she personally thought were great. >> she was so relatable. at the time, people on tv were perfect. they had perfect tv helmet hair.

they had perfect wardrobes, perfect makeup. and oprah was perfectly imperfe imperfect. >> oprah is a relatable person in terms of her size, shape and it means that if she looks good in something, i'm going to probably look good in the same thing. >> the fact that she admitted her biggest problem has been dealing with her weight, speaks volumes. >> she was encouraging us to be our authentic shelves and that opened the flood gates of what was about to happen in america. opened the flood gates of what was about to happen in america. opened the flood gates of what was about to happen in america. opened the flood gates of what was about to happen in america. opened the flood gates of what was about to happen in america. opened the flood gates of what was about to happen in america. opened the flood gates of what was about to happen in america. opened the flood gates of what was about to happen in america.

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now in the '90s, there are super models that demand as much as $10,000 a show. as they sometimes do five show as day, they can get to six figures. >> the goddlden age of the supe model. the first time in fashion history there was a group of girls that everyone knew. >> naomi. >> linda. >> they were all over the press and tv and they were making a lot of noise. >> they were chased by paparazzi and at the biggest parties and dating celebritiecelebrities. sometimes they married and divorced celebrities. >> in the '80s sports ill tra"ss illustrated" put my picture on

and all of a sudden i had a name. >> they were known as personalities and almost like actresses. some of the time the personality was really larger than life where naomi campbell was more famous for throwing her cell phone than fashion work. >> they were in their early 20s but seemed womanly. they wore those clothes. they were not hangers. ♪ ♪ >> they could do different looks and shoots and you would lose yourself in them. >> they seen something the other people don't see and bring it forward and then you see it. >> super models really brought fashion into every household. >> generation x, they are the 14 to 29-year-olds who we are told feel the best of times are long past the best jobs are out of reach and the future is out of control. >> the 20 somethings now were

shocked into reality before they even got a chance to have the freedom and the fun and the dreaming that other generations had when they were in their 20s. ♪ ♪ >> when smells like teen spirit were broadcast, you were like oh my god, what happened? >> it had a shock value that was seismic. >> it was drugs and booze and basements sound. and it was really kind of shot through with hopelessness and there was no expectation of a future that involved money or position or achievement or anything. that sense of economic marginalization of loser and broke onto the national stage because of nirvana. >> it was a direct response of

the excessive '80s. there was a subculture developing in the pacific northwest brought along but music culture at the time and those people were like they didn't give a [ bleep ]. >> they were anti fashion. and anti fashion was about wearing a lumber jack shirt, a real ripped up old jeans, never washing your clothes, never combing your hair and wearing sneak rs thers that looked like had been through hell and back. >> grunge was an extension of the hippy movement. it was also about fairly minimal clothes. i mean, we have a t-shirt and pair of jeans and we have ratty old holey sweater. >> people wore something they didn't even have to think about. it looked as though in the case of curt he did shopping at second-hand stores. >> that was the beginning of vintage becoming popular and in

today's world, vintage becoming expensive. >> it's about coming into stores like this and finding your favorite thing and putting it together. >> they weren't trying to create a fashion trend. they poured their heart and soul into their music. they are trihrifting and becaus of the power of their music, it transformed from what was not intended to be a fashion move the to truly a worldwide sensation. >> in the early '90s, marc jac >> he was designing the women's collection of perry ellis and decided to do a collection based on grunge. >> you had plaid shirts selling for $400 where you got it second hand at the theft store for $4. >> instead of flannel, the shirts were made of chiffon and

silk made to look like flannel. it was thought out and expressive but the criticism was the clothes looked inexpensive but they weren't and that regular 30, 40-year-old women would not wear it. >> the rich were offended by it. the kids that felt like their uniforms were taken away from them were offended and got him fired from perry ellis but made him famous. >> what it did was opened the door to marc jacobs to start his own collection. >> the appropriation of the clothes of rebegllion is a standard fashion now. >> while police and politicians and parents are worried about death of kids ask drugs, the fashion industry is sending a very different message to young people featuring what is called heroin chic. >> heroin was a big part of the grunge scene and heroin came bun -- bundled with that and a

certain kind of look with circles under the eye but sexy and young. >> heroin chic was away from glamour to another youthful beauty. what came before was the super model era and get kate moss and she's 16 and she's skinny and there were a lot of girls who liked that i'm skinny, i'm not fat glamorous model. >> all the models were getting really gaunt and thin was extremely in and these girls looked like they were drugged up and they very well might have been. >> there was a lot of backlash to heroin chic. >> when you put somebody passed out on a floor with dark circles under their eyes that's sending a message to young people this is okay to do and a glamorous drug and been that way for a number of years. >> truths of it there were people using drugs and there was a problem and then people died. >> a young new york photographer

named david sorenti experimented with the style and heroin and three months ago died of an overdose. >> the glor ifying heroin is no beauty. >> it became a wakeup call perhaps this i'm migmagery is glorifying a lifestyle that's extremely dangerous. >> never theletheless that look influenced fashion trend setters. >> to this day there is that heroin chic in the modelling industry. blatche dward. [ somber music playing ] he's passed away six times this year. [ cheering ] [ upbeat music starts ] let's go! let's go! let's go! and we don't even have an uncle edward. and yet somehow,

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. ♪ ♪ when "sex and the city" burst on the screen, it was fabulous. >> it was about this sexually aggressive woman and it was so culturally shocking and great. it really brought the whole dialogue about being a woman to a certain place. >> kerry bradshaw was a fashion icon in her own right. she sort of bridged the gap between couture runways and the everyday woman. >> god, kerry, i'm sorry, i

can't imagine where your shoes went. you know, jennifer was wearing sandals. perhaps she took yours by mistake. >> they weren't sandals. >> jimmy chu, straight men know what those shoes are because of "sex and the city". >> hello, lover. >> the clothing and the styling of the characters on "sex in the city" was so personality driven. each of these women communicated through their clothing who they were and this connects with an innate feeling we want what we wear to say something about who we are in the world. >> all the girls were glued to that show and all the girls were defining themselves. so you're samantha. that show had a lot of impact. >> to watch kerry bradshaw's fashion evolution was enough. the mix of high and low to have items paired with the most common place items inspired people. >> fashion became more personal. because at the time, everyone

just wore a uniform. you had your gucci by tom ford uniform, your chanel uniform. you were one type of girl. sarah jessica parker said hey, it's okay to be you and that's when pat field brought to the small screen. >> video fashion spent a day with emmy award winning costume designer patricia field during new york fashion week. she scoured the shows for looks to transform the women of "sex in the city" to their characters. >> it's all pat field. she did everything. and she's a phenomenon herself. >> her father was a taylor so she knows lines, seams, draping, flow and streucture. >> everything about the success of "sex in the city" was a wonderful surprise. sarah jessica parker was a natural in clothing. graceful and enjoyed it.

was into it. so she and i had that creative relationship, which produced that whole thing. she understood that you could wear heels with a wheef beife b and a tutu or whatever. if you take the classics that are real classics and put them together in new ways, you know, you got a winning hand. >> there was still debate about some of her most iconic ensembles on whether they work or don't work but that's some of it because some people think they do and some people think they are outrageous and all the opinions are valid. >> the most valuable thing that may take away was my communication with women what i heard over and over again was

finally someone made us look the way we are, glamorous, and happy and it really made me feel good because that is my attitude anyway. i come from a happy place. >> the current craze for reality television created when many see as a growing and deplorable eng dang -- endangering or humiliating people for entertainment. >> this is what heavy metal and gangster rap is to teen music. >> reality tv really took off in the 2000s. >> all of a sudden, you could be a regular person and you could be on tv. >> everyone started to think my life is as interesting as that. i could be the center of my own show. >> they were in competition shows like "survivor" and "big brother". >> "the simple life."

paris hilton and nicole rich she. >> there was home improvement shows to say i can do this and afford it. >> there were makeover shows like "eye for the straight guy". >> that came around the word metro sexual. it was novel term to imply a straight man could oh my god, be interested in grooming and fashion. before it was if you cared too much, that might make you gay. no you can be a little gay and that show gave guys permission to care about the way they looked. >> all of these shows not only inspire us as viewers but get up and motivated whether through fashion or sell of your home. >> it's democktized the playing field and taste. >> this is prok jekis project r >> let's go yes, i'm the best. >> you're in or out. >> i'm in. they are out. >> "project runway" is one of the granddaddy reality shows and

when it first saturdayetarted, said are people going to watch people sew. >> i want designers to please coal onto the r come onto the runway. we tallied your scores. >> people were disconnected from the idea of clovtithing. they would go to a store and buy something and put it on. "project runway" showed the process of a garment being thought of and produced and shown on a runway and talked about and dissected. >> it was lens into the fashion industry that quite frankly was very polarizing when the show first began to air. there were a lot of people in the fashion industry who said we like the fact that there is this vail of miss mystery and intrig. "project runway" ripped the vail off. >> it was the first show that made you feel like a front row v.i.p. you're watching the runway show like that design eer crushed it.

that designer choked. >> the summery of the show's impact was made by conan o'bryan who said to me, this program has given me a vocabulary to talk about clothes and i thought, how interesting and how unexpected but it makes sense. >> you are the winner of "project runway". >> the fashion industry is difficult to break into. those designers able to use the platform were able to get into the public spear. >> their applications went up 70% once "project runway" started airing. that's a big deal. people considering that could be my life path and we see people come into the auditions and say oh, i watched "project runway" when i was a kid and that made me decide to be a designer. it's inpampactful to have that a

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ever thought about what you were doing when you were 15? kissing famous designers but that's the life, part of the life of a young blogger turning some very fashionable heads. >> social media and bloggers broke the worldwide open. >> it's a fascinating phenomenon because you realize any individual anywhere in the world can suddenly have an audience from around the world. >> they enabled radically new

possibilities for sel self-expression and expert minu. >> it's possible for to assent the ranks. >> there is so many talented people in the country and the social media and internet is leveling the playing field in all spaces. >> you could be a little girl obsessed with fashion and putting herself online and becomes a real fashion influencer and flown all over the world and seated in the front row of fashion shows. she had immense impact. >> everyone wants to know what young people care about. >> people don't really trust it. they know you're trying to sell them something but if somebody whose not a member of the company says this bag is so fabulous, the sales of that bag will take off. >> tina craig known as the bag snob is one of the most influential style bloggers. with her post, she can transform

the fortunes of an entire business. oscar said that spare bag sales doubled when the bag snob started posting about them. >> oscar reached out to us and brought us in prior to the fashion show and at the time it was unheard of. it was kathy horn and anna wintor, the on two with access to oscar's collection before the show. had us look at the bags and a lot of people took notice. some not as positive. why did they get access? >> bloggers have changed the style landscape in that they have made the pie big. if an event is happening, the commentary is big. everything happens at the speed of light. >> gucci is suing forever 21 for

trademark infringement. gucci claims it's copying the green, red, green and red, blue, red stripes. >> fast fashion is a series of chain retailers who basically are able to look at the runways and make garments really quickly and put them into a see now, buy now retail environment. >> the one thing about fast fashion that is challenging in the fashion world is a version of it is out there with some of the fast fashion companies before you even put your product out there. >> so now, you have stores like h and m, zara, top shop that they are just a constant cycle of trends. >> everyone has access to the internet to watch a show. it made us so inpatient. if you're going to offer the show and let everyone see it, they should be able to have it

so fast fashion became very popular because we all create that instant gratification. >> i heard this story, one of these big fast fashion companies have ships that are literally factories and they have people sitting on those ships as they are crossing the oceans sewing so by the time that the ship reaches its destination, it's together. i nevada cheer checked it to be but sounds very plausible. >> it's a phenomenon of globalization. now it's not about everything being manufactured in one place in new york city or the united states. there are these factories all over the world that produce things very quickly at a very fast turnover and very cheaply. >> fast fashion is also about when we say fast, it's not going to last in your wardrobe long so it's going to be fast on you and fast off you.

>> what has happened is that turned into everyone should get new clothes all the time and it devalued the idea that you would save your money for, you know, really beautifully made garment and that then you would keep it, you know, it was not a disposable garment and that concept has kind of disappeared. g [indistinct conversation] [friend] i've never seen that before. ♪ ♪ i have... ♪ at panera, we treat soup differently. with vine ripened tomatoes,

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a book that you're ready to share with the world? get published now, call for your free publisher kit today! cnn can project barack obama 47 years old will become the president elect of the united states. >> when barack obama won, we were pinching ourselves with glee that america could be so brazen and open-minded. when he showed up in the park, crowds came and he gave this extraordinary speech. there was a tefeeling that we'r going to be okay. >> if there is anyone out there who still doubts that america is a place where all things are possible, tonight is your answer. >> he became a president of

great integrity. the public didn't turn on him. and a first lady that's beloved. >> it's very symbolic at this moment we're having a global economic meltdown, the first lady of the united states is wearing j. crew. >> it was interesting to watch michelle obama use clothes unlike anyone before her. her approach to it was entirely, you know, thought out, strategic, conscious, tied to her husband's platform. >> it was the most democratic look of a first lady that felt stylish but reached a lot of people that said i can be michelle obama. >> it made people feel like it was a more tangible sense of beauty. she was expressing that you can shop at places that are more affordable and get the look. >> certainly with michelle obama, you can't get away from the american history of racism from the stereo types that exist around what, how people should

look. >> something as insignificant as michelle ocho boll bama wearingg that didn't have sleeves was thought to be skancandalous. a lot of people were reacting to the fact they had never seen a black woman in this position before, and anything that sort of further exposed her blackness made some people uncomfortable. >> after that, she wore floral dresses with cap sleeves. and that was a conscious decision to say like, i'm not going to be a scary person. i'm going to dress like doris day. you know, then it became part of how she looked. she made them her own. >> michelle obama was so in vogue, she is on the cover of "vogue". >> michelle obama i think has great style and she was never afraid to wear the high or the low. she just wanted to come in front

of the public and look good. and i think she did a great job of it. >> michelle obama is an incredibly important role model. she is strong. she is beautiful. she is inclusive. she's generous. >> she also really honored the american fashion designer. she whartons ore tons of up and designers. >> the time she left the white house, she had worn 90% of the new york designers on the fashion week schedule. nobody could wear that many different designers without thinking okay, i'll make sure i promote everybody. she also focussed very much on designers kind of cuban americans, japanese americans, chinese americans, which was very much about inclusivity and out reach and promotion of small businesses. >> the complexion of her skin, her body shape and her hair

texture made a big difference in women seeing beauty in a different way. >> they have always been thin, but some of the models on the cat walk these days are not just skinny, they are down right skeletal. >> there have always been ideas of bodies, but as standards get higher, they get more and more narrow and prepress sieve. >> the beauty idea is something that's difficult to obtain. when people worked in the field and the food was scarce, the beauty idea was porcelain white skin and meat on your bones. as food is plentiful and most people work indoors, thin and tan is the beauty ideal. if you only looked at runway shows, you'd think these women are from another planet, not even remotely relatable because they are not our size and shape.

>> to have someone that looks by anybody's standards young and beautiful and yet, the photo of them or the video of them is still touched up. people are now really pushing back against that and they are saying maybe you should also be trying to make clothes that actually fit and are flattering to all the sizes we are as opposed to the sizes you would like us to be. >> there are more than 80 million women in this nation that are larger than a size 12 and they want to look as great as they can look, and they shoul should. >> move over, some real women are sharing the spotlight and the industry says that's a real plus. >> a lot of the designers were using size inclusive models in the runway shows. get it. they get their customers are that size and want to see themselves reflected in the runways on the campaigns. >> in an effort to reach real

wom women, companies are turning to real women like dove. they feature models plucked from all walks of life. >> dove has done an on going campaign where they used real women, curvcurvy, older, younge multicultural. you look at this country 20 years from now, white people are going to be in the minority. so all of these people need to be embraced. >> we've had the body era. we're in the inclusivity era. it's race, age, gender, size. >> this has basically taken form in the natural hair movement where black women said they weren't represented in media. >> it's a question of, you know, if you're a little curvy, own your curves and they become your assets. >> this comes in the form of the body positivity movement. and then also, this is taking

its own new wave to transgender visibility. >> broadening the scope, broadening the frame allows for more in different types of beauty but makes us think about power and status in different ways. denny's new super slampler bacon. eggs. french toast. and buttermilk pancakes for $5.99. $5.99 are you out of your mind??? why are we still out of our minds!?!?! denny's new super slampler - all for $5.99. hey, how ya doing? uh, phil. are you guys good with brakes?

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facebook ceo mark zuckerberg, who is getting just as much attention for his sense of style as he is for his company's ipo. >> in america, it often matters who wears something and how they wear it. >> take silicon valley, right? you look at the men in silicon valley. super casual, the hoodie, converse, whatever. >> these people could wear anything they want, because they are so wealthy they don't have to put on any airs. >> a guy like mark zuckerberg indicates that he's not what you've come to expect, because he often wore a hoodie. it was a way for him to say, the culture that i represent is younger, less formal, but ultimately very effective. in contrast, if you take a kid

like trayvon martin, stylistically he wore his hoodie with the hood over his head. and of course when trayvon martin was killed, he was identified as a thug. race is the prevailing factor. a white guy wears a hoodie and gets to be a billionaire. black guy wears a hoodie and ends up in the cemetery. demographic, race, and class distinctions have always been linked. >> demonstrators chanting eric garner's last words," i can't breathe." the nba's most prominent player, lebron james in the warmup between the cleveland cavaliers and the brooklyn nets put on a black t-shirt. >> the power of style is to assert individuality.

so by conveying a stance, a disposition, through style, that is a political act. >> the major thing about style is you can say so much without ever opening your mouth. >> ladies and gentlemen, this is the first time we've seen the first lady in 26 days. here she is sitting next to her husband, the president. >> melania trump has been very, very silent. does not appear very much. and hence, when she does appear, what she wears gets a huge amount of attention. because it seems to be sending some sort of coded message to her husband, to someone else. it's never entirely clear. but, you know, when they were on the campaign trail and the notorious "access hollywood" tape leaked and we had pussygate, she then arrives at her next public appearance in a fuchsia gucci pussy bow blouse.

oh, it's great, she's sending messages to her husband about how she's mad at him. >> at a detention facility in mcallen, texas, today the first lady's office is pushing back against reporters asking about the jacket she wore headed to texas today. the jacket said on the back, "i really don't care do you." >> there's no way she didn't know. however many steps that was, from car to plane this people were going to be taking pictures. then her spokesperson said, there's no hidden message in that, it's just a jacket. you know, everyone thought, no, it's not hidden. it was right there. you couldn't miss it. so then the question becomes, who is it for? and there's still a huge amount of debate about that. but i don't think there's any doubt she was sending a message to someone. >> we're living in interesting times right now in terms of how we utilize fashion to address the way we're feeling about what's happening in the world. style gives you a voice. it's freedom.

>> now there's no such thing as one american style. and that's what's really wonderful. it's porous and it's coming from lots of different places. and the diversity that we have in this country is just life-affirming. >> there is no fashion designer who dictates what we wear anymore. christian dior dictated what women wore in the '50s. calvin klein and ralph and donna decided in the '80s. now what's embraced is being yourself. >> you can be who you are and have your own style, have your own look, and fit works for you, then it's great. if you feel like you look great, then you look great. >> the artist is important again, like the street artist, the normal person.

and that's healthy, because young people need to experience expressing themselves. >> i think american style, like our country, is constantly changing. >> where we are as a culture is divided. but maybe we'll be open to finding common ground. >> people are really embracing the opportunity to tell their story visually. people wake up and want to feel this sense of freeness from the clothes they put on their backs. >> the new american identity is all around us. just go into any city in the united states and feel the ethnic diversity and multi-culturalism. one thing is certain, is every second, the world's changing. it gets exhausting when the world spins this quickly. you've got to find ways not to lose our own decency. >> it's a new road. it's the best time ever for american style.

>> style is culture. great style is something that is grown from within. >> style is culture. style is expression. >> there is no stopping point short of victory. >> all of us must stand up and say "no more." >> i don't believe that there has been a fashion decade as tumultuous as the 1960s. >> things like this, basically they're great, they really are. >> people celebrated their bodies literally by showing their bodies. skirts went up. >> the birth control pill is very effective if taken as directed. >> the pill is a symbol of the radical changes in the culture. people realizing that how you