the 80s were suddenly not there and american fashion didn't know what it wanted to be. >> style is how you project yourself. >> it's about coming into stores like this and finding your favorite thing and just putting it all together. >> it's places you go to eat and the people that you hang out with and the magazines you read. it's a lifestyle. >> it's about creating something that's your own and saying here i am, look at me today. >> by the 90s and 2000s, things have become increasingly less formal. >> she shows you it's not about the dress, it's about the woman that wears it. >> it's become a lot more free form. >> hello, lover. >> style no longer came from new

york or hollywood. >> no one is saying you must appear this particular way. >> we are in the inclusivity era and it's raised it's size. >> american style is becoming diverse. >> fashion is much more accessible in every way. >>

. after the 80s, excess had to return to simplicity in the 90s. >> the 90s for a long time seemed like a period that didn't seem to have any style after the extremely visible styles of the 80s. >> we as a nation had been dictated to by big brands and big names until the 90s. it was very confusing for people because we hadn't been in a position to make many decisions other than are you mainstream or are you nonconformist? it was an american style crisis and a crisis of identity. who are we? >> in the early 90s, bill clinton governor of arkansas was running against george h.w. bush for president.

>> some of the things that he did like playing the saxophone or going on talk shows was part of broadening his appeal among segments of the population that mainstream politicians avoided in the past. >> bush 41 was of a generation where presidents were disconnected from popular culture. you wouldn't imagine him appearing on any talk show. so clinton was able to make himself appear to be cool and connected to the culture in ways that his older opponents were not. >> we liked this guy. he came across as somebody that was concerned about the hood. >> there was the high hope that he was the triumph of something new. >> on this day, the american people have voted to make a new beginni beginning. >> in politics, you want to talk about change and change means a new generation, new styles, new

fashions, new energy, and bill clinton exuded that. >> hello, this is hillary clinton. i want to thank you for letting me speak with you about solving our nations health care crisis. >> traditionally, first ladies were expected to be trophies. they were not considered individuals who would have their own opinions unique to themselves. >> hillary, though, was just as strong, just as articulate, just as committed to causes as bill. >> i suppose i could have stayed home and baked cookies and had teas but what i decided to do was to fulfill my profession which i entered before my husband was in public life. >> america wanted a first lady that baked cookies and when she said i'm not a first lady that bakes cookies, america went crazy. >> she defied stereotypes and

she faced a very sharp backlash. >> i regret that anybody would have thought i was putting any other woman down. women need to have some sense of solidarity to respect the choices that each of us make. >> hillary clinton felt as though her work should speak for itself. >> hillary's style while she was first lady was distinctly unstylish. she digit have the attitude and interest that somebody like a jackie o. had. >> she thought, i'm just going to wear what i want to wear that makes me happy and like whatever, but there is no whatever when you're a woman in the public eye. >> she has taken a lot of heat as first lady so a new poll posts a simple question. what do americans want in a first lady? she should not only dress appropriately but fashionable. >> she was criticized for what her hair was doing. if she had a head band. if she was wearing a skirt. if she was wearing pants. >> i remember reading an article

that stated she was indecisive because of how many times she changed her hair cut. come on, can she have a little fun? >> she drew a lot of fire that's really very sexist. when women show they're ambitious, the culture takes issue with that. >> this is something that stuck with her throughout her long political career in the public eye. >> people graf stated toward oprah because she was a self-made person. she gained her identity because of the force of her personality. that spoke to american women. >> there's one thread running through each show we do. it's the message that you are not alone. >> she allowed people to talk about their problems and we didn't really do that in america and she herself then shared things she had gone through that were similar. so it was breaking down the

walls. >> suddenly, women were watching at home on their couch and they realized there were other people that could relate to them. >> oprah show tapped into a deep seeded need for a spiritual guru that wasn't the pope, that wasn't any of those things. >> women were incredibly influenced by the things that she would talk about on her show. she had my favorite thing where she would talk about the things that she loved and often give away these products to her audience and in doing so, every time she would mention a product it's value would massively rise in the marketplace. this started to be known as the oprah effect. >> she was a champion for things she personally thought were great. >> she is so relatable. at the time, people on tv were

perfect. they had perfect tv helmet hair, perfect wardrobes, perfect make up, and oprah was perfectly imperfect. >> oprah is a relatable person in terms of her size, her shape, and it means that if she looks good in something, i'm going to probably look good in the same thing. >> the fact that she admitted her biggest problem has been dealing with her weight speaks volumes. >> she was encouraging us to be our authentic selves and that opened the flood gates of what was about to happen in america. [cell phone rings] where are you? well the squirrels are back in the attic. mom? your dad won't call an exterminator...

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as they sometimes do five shows a day, their weekly salaries can quickly climb to six figures. >> the 1990s was the golden age of the super model. that was the first time in fashion history that there was a group of girls that everyone knew. >> naomi. >> claudia. >> cindy. >> they were all over the press. they were all over tv and making a lot of noise. >> they were at all the biggest parties and dating celebrities. sometimes they married and then divorced celebrities. >> in the 80s, sports illustrated was the first one to put my name on a cover and walking down the street, cab driver would go, yo christie.

and all of a sudden i had a name. >> they were known as personalities. almost like actresses. sometimes the personalities were larger than life. naomi campbell was more famous for throwing her cell phone at people than her fashion work. >> they were in their early 20s but they seemed very womanly. they wore those clothes. they were not hangers. >> they could do different looks and shoots and you would lose yourself in them. >> they have seen something that the other people don't see and they bring it forward and then you see it. >> super models really brought fashion into every household. >> generation x. they're the 14 to 29-year-olds who, we're told, feel the best of times are long passed, the best are out of reach and the

future is out of control. >> the 20 somethings now were shocked into reality before they got a chance to have the freedom and the fun and the dreaming that other generations had when they were in their 20s. >> smells like teen spirit was first broadcast and you were like, oh my god. what just happened. >> it had a shock value that was seismic. >> it was drugs and booze and basements sound. and really a hopelessness and no expectation of a future that involved money or position or achievement or anything. that then broke on to the national stage because of nirvana. >> the grunge movement was a direct response from the excessive 80s.

there was a subculture that was developing in the pacific northwest brought along by music culture at the time and those people were like they didn't give [ bleep ]. >> they were antifashion and that was about wearing a lumber jack shirt, real ripped up old jeans. never lossing your clothes. never combing your hair and wearing sneakers that looked like they had been through hell and back. >> grunge is an extension of the hippy movement. it was the anti-conformist fashion niche but also about fairly minuimal clothes. we have a t-shirt and jeans and ratty old sweater. >> people wore something they didn't have to think about. it looks as though in the case of kurt coban he did his shopping at second hand stores.

>> that was vintage becoming popular and in today's world, vintage becoming expensive. >> it's about finding your favorite thing and putting it all together. >> they weren't trying to create a fashion trend. they didn't have money to go buy stuff. they were thrifting and eventually because of the power of their music it transformed from what was not intended to be a fashion movement to a worldwide sensation. >> in the early 90s, brung was picked up by mark jacobs. >> he's one of the most well-known american designers and he was designing a women's collection and he decided to do a collection based on grunge. >> he showed it with the high fashion look. you had plaid shirts that were suddenly selling for $400 when you got it second hand at the thrift store for $4. >> instead of channel, they were made out of silk, make to look

like flannel. it was very well thought out. it was very expressive. but the criticism was that the clothes looked inexpensive but they weren't and that regular 30 or 40-year-old women would not wear it. >> the rich were offended by it. the kids that felt like their uniforms had been taken away from it were offended by it and it got him fired from perry ellis but it made him famous. >> it opened the door to mark jacobs to start his own collection. >> the appropriation of the clothing is a standard approach to fashion now. >> the fashion industry has been sending a very different message to young people featuring what is called heroin chic. >> heroin was a big part of the grunge scene and a certain kind

of look. circles under the eyes and sexy and young. >> it became as a pendulum swing to another kind of youthful beauty. what came before it was the super model era and then you get kate moss and she's 16 and she's skinny and there were a lot of girls that liked that i'm skinny, i'm not fat glamorous model. >> all the models were getting really gaunt and thin was extremely in and these girls looked like they were drugged up and they very well might have been. >> there was a lot of backlash to heroin chic. >> when you put somebody passed out on a floor with dark circles under their eyes, that's sending a message to young people that this is okay to do. that this is a glam rouourous d >> the truth is there was a

problem and people died. >> a young new york photographer experimented with the style and with heroin and three months ago he died of an overdose. >> it's not beautiful. it is ugly. >> that became a wake up call to a lot of people in fashion that perhaps this imagery is glamorizing a life style that's extremely dangerous. >> never the less, that look influenced a lot of fashion trend setters. >> to this day, there's still a little tinge of that heroin chic in the modeling industry. a test that jeff... [ grunting ] failed miserably. [ upbeat music starts ] the spacious volkswagen tiguan. more room means more fun. free free free... free free...

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so you can do more of what you love. my name is tito, and i'm a tech-house manager at comcast. we're working to make things simple, easy and awesome. when sex in the city burst on the screen, it was fabulous. >> it was about this sexually aggressive woman and it was so culturally like shocking and great. it really brought the whole dialogue about being a woman to a certain place. >> carrie bradshaw was a fashion icon in her own right. she bridged the gap between cotour runways and the every day woman. >> i just can't imagine where

your shoes went. >> you know, jennifer was wearing sandals, perhaps she took yours by mistake. >> actually, they weren't sandals, they were minolos. >> straight men know what those shoes are because of sex in the city. >> hello, lover. >> the clothing and the styling of the characters on sex in the city was so personality driven. each of these women sort of communicated through their clothing who they were and i think that really connects with this innate feeling that we want what we wear to say something about who we are in the world. >> all the girls were clued glu that show. that show had a lot of impact. >> just to watch carrie bradshaw was enough. you had extravagant items paired with the most common place items inspired people. >> fashion became more personal. because at the time everyone

just wore a uniform. you had your gucci by tom ford uniform. you had your chanel uniform. you were one tiype of girl and that's it. but sarah jessica parker said it's okay to be you. >> video fashion spent a day with patricia field during new york fashion week. she scoured the shows for looks to transform the women of sex in the city into their character. >> it's really all pat fields. she did everything and she is a phenomenon herself. >> her father was a taylor. she knows lines, seems, draping, flow, and structure. >> everything about the success of sex in the city was a wonderful surprise. sarah jessica parker was a natural in clothing.

graceful. intellectually into it. so she and i had that creative relationship which produced that whole thing. she understood that you could wear pearls with a wife beater and a tutu or whatever. if you take the classics that are real classics and put them together in new ways, you know, you got a winning hand. >> there's still debate about some of the most iconic ensembles on whether they work or don't work but that's some of it because some people think they do and some people think they're outrageous and all the opinions are valid. >> the most valuable thing that i take away was my communication with women. what i heard over and over again

was finally someone made us look the way we are. glamorous and happy. that is my attitude anyway. i come from a happy place. >> the current craze for reality television created what many see as a deplorable dependence on endangering or humiliating people for pure entertainment. >> it's a generational thing. this kind of tv is to tv what heavy medal and gangster rap is to music. >> reality tv took off in the 2000s. >> you could be a regular person and you could be on tv. >> everyone started to think my life is as interesting as that. i could be the center of my own show. >> they were in competition shows like survivor big brother. >> i think of the simple life, paris hilton, and nicole richie.

>> home improvement shows where you can sit at home and say i too can do this. >> makeover shows like queer eye for the straight guy. >> queer eye for the straight guy came around the same time as the advent of the word metrosexual. to imply that a straight man could be interested in grooming and fashion. >> before it was if you cared too much it might make you gay. we were like no, you can be a little gay. and that gave guys permission to care about the way they looked. >> all of these shows not only inspire us as viewers but get us up and motivated. whether it's through fashion or your home. >> it's demonth kcratized taste >> project runway is one of the granddaddy reality shows.

when it first started it was are people going to watch people sew. >> i want to ask all the designers to please come on to the runway. >> we have tallied your scores. if i say your name, please step forward. >> people were disconnected from the idea of clothing. they would go to a store and buy something and put it on. project runway showed the process of a garment being thought of and produced and shown on a runway and talked about and dissected. >> it was a lenses into the fashion industry that was very polarizing. >> there were a lot of people in the fashion industry who said we like the fact that there's this vail of mystery and intrigue and that the work of fashion designers is so rare. project runway ripped the veil off. >> it made you feel leek a front row vip. you're watching the runway show and you're like that designer

crushed it. that designer choked. >> the summaries of the show's impact was made by conan o'brien that said to me this program has given me a vocabulary to talk about clothes. and i thought how interesting and how unexpected, but it makes sense. >> christian, you are the winner of project runway. >> the fashion industry is very difficult to break into, but those designers that were able to use the platform were able to kind of get into the public sphere. >> parsons told us their applications went up nearly 70% once project runway started airing. that's a big deal. people considering oh, that could be my life path. and then we see people come and say i watched project runway when i was a kid and that is what made me decide to be a designer and it's pretty impactful to have had that influence on an entire

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ever thought about what you were doing when you were 15? chances are you weren't in the front row but that's a designer turning heads. >> social media and bloggers broke the worldwide open. >> you realize that any individual anywhere in the world can suddenly have an audience from around the world.

>> enabled radically new possibilities for self-expression and self-experimentation. >> it's possible for people that have really distinct style and taste to decent the ranks. >> many talented people. social media and the internet is leveling the playing field in all spaces. >> so you could be a little girl obsessed with fashion and starts putting herself up online and becomes a real fashion influencer and she had immense impact. >> everyone wants to know what young people care about. >> people don't trust it. they know you're trying to sell them something. but if somebody that's not a member of the company says this bag is so fabulous, sales of that bag are going to take off. >> tina craig also known as the

bag snob is one of the influential style bloggers. it doubled when the bag snob started posting about them. oscar reached out to us and brought us in prior to the fashion show and it was unheard of. it was kathie horn and anna wintour. the only two that had access before the show. had us look at the bags. a lot of people took notice. some not as positive in the editorial world. why did they get access? >> bloggers have changed the style landscape in that they made the pie bigger. the commentary is so detailed. and then, poof, it's gone. everything happens at the speed of light.

>> gucci claims the retailer is copying it's green red green and blue red blue stripes. >> fast fashion is a series of chain retailers who basically are able to look at the runways and make garments really quickly and put them into a see now buy now kind of retail environment. >> the one thing about fast fashion that is challenging in the fashion world is a version of it is out there with some of the fast fashion companies before you even put your product out there. >> so now, you have stores like h&m, zara, top shop, that they're just a constant cycle of trends. >> everyone has access to the internet to watch a show. it made us so impatient. if you're going to offer the

show, you're going to let everyone see it, they should be able to have it. >> so fast fashion became very popular because we all create that instant gratification. >> i heard this story, one of these big fast fashion companies have ships that are literally factories and they have people sitting on the ships as they're crossing the oceans sewing so by the time that the ship reaches it's destination, it's together. i never checked it to be honest, but it sounds very plausible. >> fast fashion is a phenomenon of globalization. now it's not about everything being manufactured in one place in new york city or in the united states. there's these factories all over the world that produce things very quickly at a very fast turnover and very cheaply. >> fast fashion is also about, when we say fast, it's not going

to last in your wardrobe very long. it's fast on you and fast off you. >> what has happened is that has turned into everyone should get new clothes all the time. it devalued the idea that you would save your money for, you know, a really beautifully made garment and that then you would keep it. that it was not a disposable garment. and that concept has kind of disappeared.

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cnn can now project that barrack obama, 47 years old will become the president elect of the united states. >> when barrack obama won we were pinching ourselves that america could be so brazen and open minded. when he showed up and crowds came and he gave this extraordinary speech, there's a feeling that we're going to be okay. >> if there is anyone out there who still doubts that america is a place where all things are

possible, tonight is your answer. >> he became a president of great integrity. the public didn't turn on him and a first lady that's beloved. >> it's very symbolic. >> it was interesting to watch michelle obama use clothes unlike anyone before her. her approach was entirely thought out, strategic, consciousness. tied to her husband's platforms. >> it was the most democratic look of a first lady that felt stylish but reached a lot of people that said i can be michelle obama. >> it made people feel like it was a more tangle sense of beauty. she was expressing that you can shop it and get the look. >> certainly with michelle obama you can't get away from the

american history of racism and the stereotypes that exist around how people should look. >> something has insignificant as michelle obama wearing something that didn't have sleeves was thought to be scandalous. it's really not scandalous at all. however, a lot of people were reacting to the fact that they had never seen a black woman in this position before and anything that further exposed her blackness made some people uncomfortable. >> after that she wore floral dresses with cap sleeves and that was a conscious decision to say like, i'm not going to be a scared person. it became part of how she looked. she made them her own. >> michelle obama is so in vogue she's on the cover of vogue. >> michelle obama, i think, has great style and she is never

afraid to wear the high or the low. she just wanted to come in front of the public and look good. and i think she did a great job of it. >> michelle obama is an incredibly important role model. she is strong. she is beautiful. she is inclusive. she's generous. >> she honored the american fashion designers and wore tons of up and coming designers. that was amazing. otherwise, they wouldn't have been seen. >> by the time they left the white house, she wore 90% of the designers on the fashion week schedule. no one can wear that many different designers without thinking i'm going to make sure that i promote everybody. she focused on cuban americans, japanese americans, chinese americans, which was very much about inclusivity and outreach and promotion of small

businesses. >> the complexion of her skin, her body shape, and her hair texture, made a big difference in women seeing beauty in a different way. >> they've always been thin but some of the models on the cat walk these days are not just skinny, they're down right skeletal. >> they have always been ideals of bodies but as standards get higher, they get more and more narrow and prepressive. >> it's something difficult to obtain. when people worked in the fields it was porcelain white skin and meat on your bones. now food is plentiful, thin and tan is the beauty ideal. you'll think these women are from another planet.

they're not even remotely relatable because they're a rarified size and shape. >> to have someone that looks really young and beautiful and yet the photo of them or the video of them is still touched up. people are now really pushing back against that and they're saying maybe you should also be trying to make clothes that actually fit and are flattering to all the sizes that we are as opposed to the sizes that you would like us to be. >> there are more than 80 million women in this nation that are larger than a size 12 and they want to look as great as they can look, and they should. >> move over. some real women are sharing the spotlight and the industry says that's a real plus. >> a lot of the designers that are using size inclusive models in their runway shows get it. they get that their customers are that size and want to see

themselves reflected in the r runways on the campaigns. >> in an effort to reach real women, companies are turning to real women, like dove, whose ad features models from all walks of life. >> they have used real women, curvy, older, younger, multiracial, and when you look at this country, 20 years from now, white people will be in the minority. so all of these people need to be embraced. >> we had the body era and now here we are in the inclusivity era. it's race, it's age, it's gen r gender, it's size. >> this has taken form in the natural hair movement where black women were claiming they were not represented in media. >> it's a question of, you know, if you're a little curvy, own your curves and they become your assets. >> this comes in the form of the body positivity movement.

and then also, this has taken it's own new wave too into transgender visibility more recently. >> broadening the scope, broadening the frame allows for more different types of beauty, but it also makes us think about power and status in different

facebook ceo mark zuckerberg, who is getting just as much attention for his sense of style as he is for his company's ipo. >> in america, it often matters who wears something and how they wear it. >> take silicon valley, right? you look at the men in silicon valley. super casual, the hoodie, converse, whatever. >> these people could wear anything they want, because they are so wealthy they don't have to put on any airs. >> a guy like mark zuckerberg indicates that he's not what you've come to expect, because he often wore a hoodie. it was a way for him to say, the culture that i represent is younger, less formal, but ultimately very effective. in contrast, if you take a kid like trayvon martin, stylistically he wore his hoodie

with the hood over his head. and of course when trayvon martin was killed, he was identified as a thug. race is the prevailing factor. a white guy wears a hoodie and gets to be a billionaire. black guy wears a hoodie and ends up in the cemetery. demographic, race, and class distinctions have always been linked. >> demonstrators chanting eric garner's last words," i can't breathe." the nba's most prominent player, lebron james in the warmup between the cleveland cavaliers and the brooklyn nets put on a black t-shirt. >> the power of style is to assert individuality.

so by conveying a stance, a disposition, through style, that is a political act. >> the major thing about style is you can say so much without ever opening your mouth. >> ladies and gentlemen, this is the first time we've seen the first lady in 26 days. here she is sitting next to her husband, the president. >> melania trump has been very, very silent. does not appear very much. and hence, when she does appear, what she wears gets a huge amount of attention. because it seems to be sending some sort of coded message to her husband, to someone else. it's never entirely clear. but, you know, when they were on the campaign trail and the notorious "access hollywood" tape leaked and we had pussygate, she then arrives at her next public appearance in a fuchsia gucci pussy bow blouse. oh, it's great, she's sending

messages to her husband about how she's mad at him. >> at a detention facility in mcallen, texas, today the first lady's office is pushing back against reporters asking about the jacket she wore headed to texas today. the jacket said on the back, "i really don't care do you." >> there's no way she didn't know. however many steps that was, from car to plane this people were going to be taking pictures. then her spokesperson said, there's no hidden message in that, it's just a jacket. you know, everyone thought, no, it's not hidden. it was right there. you couldn't miss it. so then the question becomes, who is it for? and there's still a huge amount of debate about that. but i don't think there's any doubt she was sending a message to someone. >> we're living in interesting times right now in terms of how we utilize fashion to address

the way we're feeling about what's happening in the world. style gives you a voice. it's freedom. >> now there's no such thing as one american style. and that's what's really wonderful. it's porous and it's coming from lots of different places. and the diversity that we have in this country is just life-affirming. >> there is no fashion designer who dictates what we wear anymore. christian dior dictated what women wore in the '50s. calvin klein and ralph and donna decided in the '80s. now what's embraced is being yourself. >> you can be who you are and have your own style, have your own look, and fit works for you,

then it's great. if you feel like you look great, then you look great. >> the artist is important again, like the street artist, the normal person. and that's healthy, because young people need to experience expressing themselves. >> i think american style, like our country, is constantly changing. >> where we are as a culture is divided. but maybe we'll be open to finding common ground. >> people are really embracing the opportunity to tell their story visually. people wake up and want to feel this sense of freeness from the clothes they put on their backs. >> the new american identity is all around us. just go into any city in the united states and feel the ethnic diversity and multi-culturalism. one thing is certain, is every second, the world's changing. it gets exhausting when the world spins this quickly. you've got to find ways not to lose our own decency. >> it's a new road. it's the best time ever for

american style. a seemingly endless battle, president trump is telling the house speaker to be careful when it comes to negotiating the government's reopening. . even as the shutdown stretches into a fifth week, the longest ever in u.s. history. it's another tough week of turmoil for the british prime minister as she gets ready to present plan b for brexit. but some opponents and members of her own party are trying to unveil their own plans. a stunning sight in the night sky. a super blood moon makes a rare appearance in some parts of the world. >> we have to see that. >> we did. there's pictures to prove it. welcome to our viewers here in the united states and from all