and this is now ♪ ♪ and he told me this town gets around ♪ ♪ from what i've found this town gets around ♪ of imprisonment, and what was the most chaotic, amazing difficult trip of my life, the last thing that stands between us and our flight home is the reason we came. the congo river itself. >> been here since this morning. >> there are times i've been held up for days. >> what's up, buddy? >> they're starting the engine. >> starting the engine.

>> awesome. >> just broke down again? >> yeah. >> we now have one hour of daylight left. >> the anyones, they have started. >> okay, great. here he comes. >> yeah. >> you learn quickly. in congo things change in a moment's notice. >> welcome to the jungle. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good ♪ in this beautiful world ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪

♪ everyone gets everything he wants. i wanted to see the congo. for my sins, they let me. >> in "heart of darkness" joseph conrad writes of his alter ego -- when i was a little chap, i had a passion for maps. at that time there were many blank spaces on earth. but there was one yet, the biggest, the most blank, that i had a hankering after. this then is the congo.

the size of all western europe combined. it should be africa's wealthiest nation. the people forget, or never even knew, that the 20th century's first holocaust happened here when belgium's king leopold managed to bamboozle the world giving him personal title to the congo. leopold's agents of whom the mythical kurtz was one, raided, slaughtered, mutilated, and pressed into forced labor much of the population, in a bloodthirsty quest for first ivory and then rubber. when independence finally came, the belgians trashed what they could, and left behind a completely unprepared tribally divided and largely ungovernable land mass, filled with stuff that everybody in the world wanted.

and things pretty much went downhill from there. ♪ >> but this story begins with a truck stop in rwanda. stocking up in rwanda. my expectations for food in the congo are more measured.

if you're looking to get to the eastern congo, and many would ask why you would even want to do that, the best way is to drive across from neighboring rwanda. this country, of course, not too long ago, suffered its own appalling genocide. behind the wheel, dan. he's been living in the drc for two years, working on a documentary about some of the several dozen rebel groups in the country. riding shotgun, dan's close friend and associate horeb, a congolese. they're taking me across the border. one side, rwanda, hotels, paved roads, internet, and paperwork to be filled out. just a few feet of barbed wire, machine guns and cement walls away -- this.

welcome to goma. a city of 1 million, the significant number of whom are idps, internally displaced people -- sitting, rather inconveniently, at the base of mt. niragango. a still smoldering volcano. current street level is about 12 feet above where it was in january 2002 when it last erupted. lava everywhere. which explains the less than smooth ride. one of the first things you notice out the car window, the u.n. about four months ago, the m-23, one of the various rebel groups holed up in the jungle nearby, invaded the city.

the ngos battened down the hatches. the u.n. stood by, hands tied. everyone else had to fend for themselves until the rebels withdrew. the congo was a place i've dreamed of visiting before i ever thought i would get the chance to travel the world. actually being here, i'm not so sure. dan, horeb and i head for a local restaurant. good food is going to be a challenge soon, so we take the opportunity to fill up on what we can. grilled chicken, gugali, pirripirri pepper, pretty nice meal. >> goma in the '50s, tourists used to come as far as rhodesia, up here to vacation.

>> amazing life. i remember in my childhood seeing lions along side the road sometimes. goma was a choice place for a long time. >> they're not coming anymore? >> no. it's a red zone. >> it's looking like there won't be house to house fighting or artillery or mortars dropping in. was today a good day? >> we have a rebel group just ten kilometers north of us, and maybe seven other rebel groups that are all caught in the blender, you know? >> things change quickly in the congo. >> confused yet? virtually all of the eastern part of the country is being contested by rebel groups -- some local and others allegedly acting on behalf of interests based in neighboring countries. recently the largely tutsi rwandan-backed m-23 has been active in the area around goma. but the mostly hutu fdlr is also here.

they can also refer to self-defense groups or specifically entities. like apcls or chaka. some groups like the frpi are principally defending a stake in a resource like gold, and others are mainly interested in fighting with a particular enemy, in their case, they have a beef with the fdlr. lots of other organizations controlling territory who haven't come up with a name or cool acronym yet. this is only a fraction of the rebel groups in a single area of the congo. be advised this map was hopelessly outdated before we even got here. >> it's all these variables kind of knotted into one big mess. these are the reasons why media has a difficult time, why the western world doesn't hear much about congo, because how can you sum it up in a three-minute report? >> but for us, goma is just a stopover on the way to the congo river. so we need to keep moving.

and roads, forget it. certainly nothing even remotely safe between goma and where we are headed. >> we're flying to kisangani, this is the preferred route. ed. >> so we've chartered a bush plane, formerly queen elizabeth's former traveling wardrobe. when the queen traveled, presumably in her younger years, her clothes traveled in this beast. or so we're told. >> this is a first for me. >> you learn to take nothing for granted in the congo. uh-oh. just as we're about to take off, thunder, lightning. >> i don't see what the problem is. weather looks fine to me. >> let's get this thing airborne. >> wow, nice. >> we have to wait this one out a little. crashes are pretty commonplace. not so long ago a plane with nearly 100 people on board went down on the same route we're taking today.

>> most planes crash in congo crash because of the weather, right? >> yeah, most of the time, yeah. >> not us. don't worry. >> impossible. >> the weather clears up, sort of. so we decide to give it a go. >> when the weather is very bad, stay on the ground. >> what about rebels? are they shooting at the planes? >> no. normally, no. okay. we'll see you after your trip. >> yeah, yeah. >> okay. have a good one. >> lifting off from goma, we head out over the shores of lake kivu before circling back north-northeast. our destination -- what conrad referred to in "heart of darkness" as the inner station.

here surrounded by dense jungle lies our rendezvous with the congo river. a waterway responsible for both building this country and helping to destroy it. hey, how ya doing? uh, phil. are you guys good with brakes? we're ok. just ok? we got a saying here. if the brakes don't stop it, something will. that's not a real saying. it is around here. i wrote it. just ok is not ok. especially when it comes to your network. at&t is america's best wireless network, according to america's biggest test. now with 5g e. more for your thing. that's our thing.

can really get you going. but mania, such as unusual changes in your mood, activity or energy levels, can leave you on... shaky ground. help take control by asking your healthcare provider about vraylar. vraylar treats acute mania of bipolar i disorder. vraylar significantly reduces overall manic symptoms, and was proven in adults with mixed episodes who have both mania and depression. vraylar should not be used in elderly patients with dementia, due to increased risk of death or stroke. call your doctor about fever, stiff muscles, or confusion, which may mean a life-threatening reaction or uncontrollable muscle movements, which may be permanent. side effects may not appear for several weeks. high cholesterol and weight gain; high blood sugar, which can lead to coma or death; decreased white blood cells, which can be fatal; dizziness upon standing; falls; seizures; impaired judgement; heat sensitivity; and trouble swallowing may occur. you're more than just your bipolar i. ask about vraylar.

two hours out of goma, we land at kisangani.

this was once stanleyville, and the country's second-largest city, before war and neglect cut it off from the rest of the congo and the world. stanleyville, known in "heart of darkness" as the inner station. the congo river stretches across the country's middle. conrad describes it as a twisting snake with its head in the atlantic ocean and its tail buried deep in africa's heart. to europeans, it was a natural route to transport slaves, ivory, rubber, minerals. the commodities upon which modern-day brussels and antwerp are built.

for the congolese, both before and after the belgians, it provided more basic things. water to wash, to clean your clothes in, to cook with, to drink. also fishing. since long before the expeditions of dr. livingston and henry morton stanley, the wageni tribe has been fishing the river in unique fashion. highly coordinated and acrobatic, the wageni dive into the treacherous rapids in what is still referred to as stanleyville falls. navigating between baskets going down the river, perched on a precarious network of wooden poles they hoist together. the catch these days -- not much.

>> so it is the second-biggest force in the congo river. >> oh, yeah. >> he's a fisherman and was a guide, bringing tourists to his village. since the last two wars, kisangani tourism has been pretty much nonexistent. chief of the wageni, pierre mu sala abaka. it is said is a direct descendant of the king who greeted stanley in the 1870s. >> please thank him for the privilege of seeing his community. [ speaking foreign language ] >> translator: it's a present from the chief. this is a way to welcome the delegation of cnn. >> the wageni tribe made, what was in retrospect, the mistake

of allowing stanley to pass. the famous explorer, of course, pretty much shot and raided his way along the historic route to the coast, before effectively jump-starting the colonial period. ♪ >> using stanley as administrator, king leopold of belgium claimed the congo as his personal property. under leopold's reign, men, women and children were tagged with numbers, separated into groups, given production quotas. if they fell short, they were whipped, their hands cut off, hanged. an estimated 10 million congolese were either starved, worked to death, executed, or just killed where they stood, all in just over 20 years. by the end, half the population of the country was gone.

have you ever thought about all those years ago if your people had just killed stanley? >> translator: somebody else would have come. >> ordinarily, a large tiger fish like this one, it's going to the market, considered way too valuable to eat. but today -- guests. >> it's a mean-looking fish. >> she used to sell fish in the market. >> the congolese standard, liboke. it can be pretty much anything wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed. >> typical tradition. >> excellent meal. >> a lot of work.

though it looks like they're not having an entirely miserable time of it. the water looks good. on a good day, how many of these? >> on a good day, 50. >> 50? >> anthony: right, hundreds of them used to come, yes? >> ogi: oh yeah. >> anthony: well, things get a little better here, maybe they'll come back. >> ogi: i hope so. >> anthony: i hope so, too. ♪ ♪ ♪ >> anthony: after leopold, the belgian government took over and pretty much continued as before.

an apartheid-like system of what's mine is mine and what's yours is mine. by the '50s, there was a beautiful modern infrastructure built, railroads, hotels, sports clubs, schools, the envy of africa. humphrey bogart and katherine hepburn were here while filming "the african queen." they stayed at the luxury hotel, the pourquoi pas. this is the pourquoi pas now. like everything else of that time, a hollow ruin inhabited by squatters or simply eaten by the jungle. but none of this was ever for the congolese. they weren't allowed in many of these buildings, except as help. not even allowed to walk their own streets after dark. not a lot of dependable electric power left in the city, but what lights do glow around town, much

of it comes from places like this, small kiosks serving the congolese version of barbeque, and what passes for cold beer. christian is one of our fixers, tasked with keeping us on track and out of trouble. which, believe me, is a big job around here. you know, it's an amazing looking city. if you just blur your vision a little bit you can see it in the way it used to be. >> christian: beautiful. i think it, it could be the, the best place to live. very kind people. people like, listening to music, sitting, taking their beers, eating. >> anthony: what's the congolese word for barbeque? >> christian: uh, barbeque. [ laughter ] >> anthony: cheers. >> christian: cheers. >> anthony: i like any meat on a grill. this'll be good. grilled goat with cabrit, a traditional goat stew on the side. now we're talking. >> christian: they roast it and then they put some sauce on it. >> anthony: it's delicious.

>> christian: as you can see, people don't eat meat. meat is quite expensive. it's almost $2, which is -- >> anthony: which is a lot. yeah, it's more than most people make in a day or even two days. what are the first things you buy, if you're very, very, very poor? >> christian: very poor, soap. >> anthony: soap? >> christian: yeah, because you have to look a bit clean. >> anthony: so soap first? soap? >> christian: first soap. but in between as congolese, you've got to think of dressing, looking smart, clothes. all these congolese you can see -- >> anthony: right. >> christian: if you give them $10, they will think of at least buying soap or food and keep maybe $1 to buy a shirt. >> anthony: so that's called pride. >> christian: yeah. and there is hope. >> anthony: you can plan for tomorrow. >> christian: for tomorrow. ♪ ♪

♪ carl, does your firm offer a satisfaction guarantee? like schwab does. guarantee? ♪ carl, can you remind me what you've invested my money in. it's complicated. are you asking enough questions about how your wealth is being managed? if not, talk to schwab. a modern approach to wealth management. ♪ i don't have cash, you said you took credit card. ♪ ♪ ♪ to be nobody but yourself in a world which is doing it's best

to make you everybody else... ♪ ♪ means to fight the hardest battle, which any human being can fight and never stop. does this sound dismal? it isn't. ♪ ♪ it's the most wonderful life on earth. ♪ ♪

♪ ♪

>> anthony: in "heart of darkness", conrad writes about the greed of the belgian colonizers. they grabbed what they could get for the sake of what was to be got. it was just robbery with violence, aggravated murder on a great scale. and after 75 years, the congolese had had enough. but independence came quickly, and when the new country managed to inaugurate their first democratically-elected leader, patrice lumumba, the cia and the british, working through the belgians, had him killed. we helped to install this miserable bastard in his place, joseph mobutu. he stole billions of dollars from his people, and pretty much became the template for despotism in africa.

needles to say, the situation deteriorated over the next 30 odd years, and by the time mobutu was done, the congo was mired in a series of civil wars, the government was no longer paying its bills, and the trains basically stopped running. this is kisangani station. ♪ ♪ there is one short run left, service once a week, when operational, which isn't often, i'm guessing. abandoned by the belgians. shot up and stripped by rebels in the '90s. the station, the engines, the ancient passenger cars, and the tracks themselves have slowly receded into the jungle. ♪ [ metal pounding ]

and yet all these years later, with hardly any resources, monsieur aloub emile, the railway administrator, and a staff of clerks, conductors, mechanics and engineers show up at work and do what they can in an attempt to keep things in working order. how do you do? >> christian: he said that you're welcome to see this place. >> anthony: how many employees, uh, still work here? >> anthony: so at one time you could dispatch a freight to south africa? >> anthony: so, a hypothetical question. if the government said, "okay,

we're ready. we have the money. we would like to, as quickly as possible, get operational." does he have the workers ready to go? >> anthony: and this is one of the few things here that's working today. a feature of great pride to the staff. the railway employees, i'm told, do not get paid, yet they

continue to show up and work. [ engine revving ] ♪ ♪ >> anthony: it is said, of the building of the country's once vast rail network, one congolese died for every single tie. like many congolese we meet, they are all these years later, and in spite of everything that's happened, ready and waiting for the situation to improve. ♪

♪ attractions, and experiences in destinations around the world like new york, from bus tours to breathtaking adventures. tripadvisor makes it easy to find and book amazing things to do. and you can cancel most bookings up to 24 hours in advance for a full refund. so you can make your next trip monumental. read reviews, check hotel prices, book things to do, tripadvisor. we know that when you're >> tspending time with thelass grandkids... ♪ music >> tech: ...every minute counts. and you don't have time for a cracked windshield. that's why at safelite, we'll show you exactly when we'll be there. with a replacement you can trust. all done sir. >> grandpa: looks great! >> tech: thanks for choosing safelite. >> grandpa: thank you! >> child: bye! >> tech: bye! saving you time... so you can keep saving the world. >> kids: ♪ safelite repair, safelite replace ♪ (clapping)

every day, visionaries are creating the future. ( ♪ ) so, every day, we put our latest technology and vast expertise to work. ( ♪ ) the united states postal service makes more e-commerce deliveries to homes than anyone else in the country, affordably and on-time. (ringing) ( ♪ ) the future only happens with people who really know how to deliver it. -morning. -morning. -what do we got? -keep an eye on that branch. might get windy. have a good shift. fire pit. last use -- 0600. i'd stay close. morning. ♪ get ready to switch. protected by flo. should say, "protected by alan and jamie." -right? -should it? when you bundle home and auto... run, alan! ...you get more than just savings. you get 'round-the-clock protection.

♪ ♪ >> anthony: "you lost your way on that river as you would in a desert, 'til you thought yourself bewitched and cut off

forever from everything you had known once." so conrad described the congo after piloting steam ships in the early days of belgian colonialism. i've had something of a multi-decade obsession with the congo. it's been kind of a, a personal dream, if you will, to travel the congo river. and now, for better or worse, i get that chance. we've rented a trusty vessel, and i shall dub thee the captain willard. all right, did you maggots load the chickens? finding food along the way, it's anticipated, will be a challenge. refrigeration of any kind is impossible. okay. well, i'm psyched. my dream has finally come true. [ speaking foreign language ] >> anthony: blocked by officials? this could be months. okay. let the probing begin.

[ speaking foreign language ] >> dan: we need this boat to move here now. how do we do this? >> anthony: let's get underway before they figure a new tax to levy on us. >> people: bye. bye, bye. ♪ >> anthony: our trip downriver will take us some 120 kilometers even deeper into the jungle. but instead of kurtz and his ivory horde, a crumbling belgian research center with a shadowy past awaits us at our destination. this is a turn of the century map, so kisangani was then called stanleyville. leopoldville, that would be here. >> dan: well, it's 3,000 kilometers or something like that. >> anthony: we have a long way to go if we're taking the full

ride. >> dan: that's what we're doing, right? >> anthony: all the way to the atlantic? >> dan: you didn't tell them yet? >> anthony: i don't think we have enough spam, gentlemen. a half day's journey downriver, there's a local dignitary we've promised to visit. we arrive, late, but the king is still waiting for us, traditional head gear, not so traditional suit. the medals, given by the belgians, proving his royal lineage. ♪ >> horeb: uh, this place belongs to the bambole ethnic group.

>> anthony: and he is the king? >> horeb: my father ruled from 1928 and i come after him in 1963. >> anthony: that's a lot of history. incredible. >> anthony: we give him a goat as a way of saying i'm sorry for being so late, and sorry we can't stay longer. and he gives me a simple, yet hefty looking bracelet, which only later do i come to appreciate for what it is. ♪ now horeb told me this goes back to, uh, arab, portuguese times. it was arabs who taught them how to do this, so they wear them on their wrists and their ankles. this is older than our story probably. the chief said, uh, his father gave it to him in 1935. so, who knows, man, wow. so, where'd you get the

bracelet? oh, an african king gave it to me, the congo river. where'd you get yours? we've come a long way down river, but with many kilometers still to go, attention is turned towards the evening meal. i figure i'll make coq au vin, which is a pretty simple way of dealing with a bunch of tough, old, stringy birds in one pot. getting close to killy time. the moment of truth. it's quickly getting dark and i'm very aware of a number of things. how do they usually kill chickens? >> dan: a small knife. >> anthony: a small knife, cut the head off? >> dan: a small knife. >> anthony: our chickens are thin, straggly, and tough. >> dan: ah, he's biting me. >> anthony: in order to make anything, any kind of edible, i'm probably going to have to stew the crap out of them. but first, we gotta kill these things and collect their blood, which if you know anything about chickens, and most of my crew

don't, takes time. i'll hold the bucket, you kill the chicken. you want to eat? you gotta kill your own chicken and pluck it, too. time to get killy, killy. but every man has a breaking point. and in retrospect, perhaps, this was ours. >> dan: saw harder. >> anthony: harder, harder, you're almost through now. >> man: i'm not. >> dan: you're killing him. >> man: it's stuck. >> dan: clean kill, clean kill. >> anthony: now he can join our tree house. by the time our birds are cleaned and plucked, the sun is down and dinner is still a long way off. ♪ we got the chickens. it's time to kill chickens ♪ why are we doing this? why are we doing what? using my old spice moisturize with shea butter body wash...

all i wanted was to use your body wash and all i wanted was to have a body wash. why didn't you book your on a travel site?on at hilton.com, i get the price match guarantee. and i can choose from their 14 different hotel brands, so i get the right hotel for every member of my family. like a doubletree for my cousins who love their warm chocolate chip cookies. a homewood suites for my uncle who likes a long stay. a hampton for my sister and her kids. that's a lot of syrup and the waldorf astoria beverly hills for me. but i thought your family vacation was in miami? it is. i hear they're having a great time. book at hilton.com and get the hilton price match guarantee. if you find a lower rate, we match it and give you 25% off that stay. the iphone xr is a marvel in technology. yeah this edge to edge screen is unbelievable. am i nuts or does everything look better on an iphone? both. and with our unlimited plan, people can choose the best in entertainment. hbo, cinemax, showtime... starz, vrv, amazon music, or pandora.... now people can get what they want. (in unison) because everyone's different. (in unison) i feel like we shouldn't talk for a couple of days. (in unison)

at&t has the only unlimited plan that gives you your choice of top-tier entertainment. get an iphone xr on us when you buy the latest iphone more for your thing. that's our thing. sleep number 360 smart bed. it senses your movement and automatically adjusts to keep you both comfortable. save 50% on the sleep number 360 limited edition smart bed. plus, 24-month financing on all smart beds. only for a limited time. when i walked through a snowthat's when i knewtte, i had to quit. for real this time. that's why i'm using nicorette. only nicorette gum has patented dual-coated technology for great taste. plus intense craving relief. every great why, needs a great how.

the latest inisn't just a store.ty it's a save more with a new kind of wireless network store. it's a look what your wifi can do now store. a get your questions answered by awesome experts store. it's a now there's one store that connects your life

like never before store. the xfinity store is here. and it's simple, easy, awesome. >> anthony: somewhere down the congo river, and i'm continuing to deal with a few pressing concerns. ♪ the one knife on board is as sharp, really, as a soup spoon. and soon, i'm frantically trying to rip out the backbone and guts in one go with my bare hands because the knife ain't shit and it's getting darker and darker and the damn generator keeps kicking up. and i really need a light so i can see what i'm cutting. i can't cut what i can't see. >> crew member: well, there's three light bulbs out right now. >> crew member: there's only 240 watts. there's no way it's, it's the draw. >> anthony: they're not going to

eat at all. i'm never go -- i'm never going to get through with this knife. >> crew member: would you like machete? >> anthony: no, maybe we should figure out how to cook dinner, unless you don't want to eat any dinner because we are really not going to eat any dinner tonight. okay. i've had a peanut butter and jelly sandwich and i would like to eat, especially as we have gone through all of this misery with these chickens. all right, uh, where's the machete? it would be apropos to point out that we do not want to be moving at night. we would not like to run aground in the middle of the freaking congo. >> crew member: he's going to swim in now. >> crew member: he's worried about crocs? >> crew member: i can't see any. >> anthony: the current's unpredictable, visibility, nil.

time to tie up for the night. >> anthony: generator issues, more or less fixed, but now, another just as serious problem presents itself. with the lights burning, it becomes insanely buggy. crush the wrong one of these moths while swatting your face and you will blow up like a balloon, seriously. okay, take the other two bottles of wine and pour all three bottles of wine into the, into the onions. all right. let's, uh, put the top on, bring it up to a boil. three hours later, and it looks like the jungle style stew might actually work out after all. okay, someone wants to bring this over carefully to the table? all right.

let's eat. >> crew member: bon appétit. >> anthony: bon appétit. in the end, my coq au vin was a bit scraggly, but passable. >> anthony: it is written that i should be loyal to the nightmare of my choice. i think i now understand what that means. ♪ >> anthony: the next morning on the river, and of course, we're not alone. fishermen from all the surrounding villages have heard of us and have, long before we're even awake, come by to check us out. hey, uh, you ever find a couple of onions for me? don't go crazy. if we don't have, we don't have.

>> dan: i will not go crazy. >> anthony: all right, i will get on the spam and egg patrol. we may have invented the stealth bomber, really this will be our crowning accomplishment as a culture. >> dan: get in there, boys. >> crew member: once we finally get there, we still have to get all the way back. >> dan: coming back was never part of the plan, man. [ laughter ] we're not coming back. >> anthony: yeah, they'll find us 10 years later naked in the bush with like, a necklace of spam cans. that was glorious. time to get back out on the river. we have places to go. two days down the congo, we're finally nearing our destination. >> dan: it's an abandoned belgian research station and it's still functioning in some capacity, but, uh, the yangambi itself goes about 30 kilometers in, there's over 250 buildings.

they were doing it all here. >> anthony: much myth and legend surrounds this place. ah, there we go. >> dan: yeah. >> anthony: it has been inferred by some that the belgians conducted uranium enrichment, and a host of bizarre experiments here. however, the facts would suggest, the scariest thing to ever happen here, some genetically modified banana varietals. to be nobody but yourself in a world which is doing it's best

to make you everybody else... ♪ ♪ means to fight the hardest battle, which any human being can fight and never stop. does this sound dismal? it isn't. ♪ ♪ it's the most wonderful life on earth. ♪ ♪ it's the most ♪ 'cos i know what it means ♪ to walk along the lonely street of dreams ♪ ♪ here i go again on my--- you realize your vows are a whitesnake song? i do. if you ride, you get it. geico motorcycle. 15 minutes could save you 15% or more. woman 1: i had no symptoms of hepatitis c. man 1: mine... ...caused liver damage.

vo: epclusa treats all main types of chronic hep c. vo: whatever your type, ask your doctor if epclusa is your kind of cure. woman 2: i had the common type. man 2: mine was rare. vo: epclusa has a 98% overall cure rate. man 3: i just found out about my hepatitis c. woman 3: i knew for years. vo: epclusa is only one pill, once a day, taken with or without food for 12 weeks. vo: before starting epclusa, your doctor will test if you have had hepatitis b, which may flare up, and could cause serious liver problems during and after treatment. vo: tell your doctor if you have had hepatitis b, other liver or kidney problems, hiv, or other medical conditions... vo: ...and all medicines you take, including herbal supplements. vo: taking amiodarone with epclusa may cause a serious slowing of your heart rate. vo: common side effects include headache and tiredness. vo: ask your doctor today, if epclusa is your kind of cure. whooo! want to take your next vacation to new heights?

tripadvisor now lets you book over a hundred thousand tours, attractions, and experiences in destinations around the world! like new york! from bus tours, to breathtaking adventures, tripadvisor makes it easy to find and book amazing things to do. and you can cancel most bookings up to 24 hours in advance for a full refund. so you can make your next trip... monumental! read reviews check hotel prices book things to do tripadvisor we all make excuses for the things we don't want to do. but when it comes to colon cancer screening... i'm not doin' that. i eat plenty of kale. ahem, as i was saying... ...with cologuard, you don't need an excuse... all that prep? no thanks. that drink tastes horrible! but...there's no prep with cologuard... i can't take the time off work. who has two days? and i feel fine - no symptoms! everybody, listen! all you need is a trip to the bathroom. if you're 50 or older and at average risk,

cologuard is the noninvasive option that finds 92% of colon cancers. you just get the kit in the mail, go to the bathroom, collect your sample, then ship it to the lab! this is your year! own it! cologuard is not right for everyone. it is not for high risk individuals, including those with a history of colon cancer or precancer, ibd, certain hereditary cancer syndromes, or a family history of colon cancer. ask your doctor if cologuard is right for you. covered by medicare and most major insurers. ♪ >> anthony: deep in the jungle and miles from anywhere, this was once the institute for agricultural studies of congo. construction began in the 1930s. the complex was once staffed by hundreds of belgian researchers, doctors, and engineers until they left hurriedly in 1960.

[ typewriter clacking ] with independence began a rapid decline. the eventual cessation of funding. of the hundreds of structures built here, what used to be housing, laboratories, hospitals, and research facilities, the vast complex's library is clearly the most important to those who remain. though crumbling, like everything else, the grass is cut and grounds maintained. it's swept and kept clean. and yet, most incredibly, this man, cassongo bertin, still fights a daily battle to stave off further decay to the thousands of volumes of books and research materials contained

on these shelves. so what happened here? did the place stay open? did people continue to do research? [ speaking foreign language ] >> anthony: right. when independence comes, what happens here? >> anthony: so unless i'm mistaken, the gentleman just said that cutting edge research moved to burundi and elsewhere. the congolais who, who remained -- >> horeb: remained. >> anthony: their mission, all these years later, has been to preserve the patrimony that existed. all this was state of the art back in the '50s when the library was built. but for 20 years, there hasn't been electricity to run the dehumidifiers to keep out the damp. through so many wars, through

all of these difficulties, he has maintained this facility to an extraordinary degree. >> horeb: yeah, absolutely. >> anthony: uh, why? >> anthony: staff still show up to work and organize, catalogue, and write requests for funding, perhaps to kinshasha or a central office where someone may or may not ever respond. he was here pre-independence, yes? >> horeb: yeah. >> anthony: uh, does he remember the belgian, uh, rule? [ speaking foreign language ] >> horeb: oh yeah, he remember, he remembers the, that period of colonial life, colonialists,

that, that was the good, the best time that they were living. [ speaking foreign language ] >> anthony: what do you say to someone who suggests that belgian colonialism might have been the good times? ♪ the road home, such as it is. rotting bridges, makeshift ferries, it's an adventure. fortunately, ours was a good adventure. the congo is a place that's always fascinated me. this is a trip i've been wanting to take since i've been writing stories or making television. but what i found was something unexpected. i met a lot of people who, for a long time, have been waiting, hoping for things to get better. a lot more hope here than

there's any right to expect. when all is said and done, i wanted to go to the congo, and i did. [ car horn ] >> anthony: peru is a country that's historically driven men mad, mad for gold, for coca, for its magical, ancient history. but now, there's something else drawing outsiders to its hidden mountain valleys. we love this stuff. we obsess about it, gorge on it and fetishize it. i'm talking about chocolate. once a common treat, it's now becoming as nuanced as fine wine, making the pursuit of the raw, good stuff all the more difficult. i'm joining that hunt in remotest peru, but not before i've re-immersed myself in the booming lima food scene. ♪ i took a walk through this