there's any right to expect. when all is said and done, i wanted to go to the congo, and i did. [ car horn ] >> anthony: peru is a country that's historically driven men mad, mad for gold, for coca, for its magical, ancient history. but now, there's something else drawing outsiders to its hidden mountain valleys. we love this stuff. we obsess about it, gorge on it and fetishize it. i'm talking about chocolate. once a common treat, it's now becoming as nuanced as fine wine, making the pursuit of the raw, good stuff all the more difficult. i'm joining that hunt in remotest peru, but not before i've re-immersed myself in the booming lima food scene. ♪ i took a walk through this

beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la,, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la ♪

>> anthony: i'm in peru with this guy, eric ripert. >> eric: the guy was looking at us. he went into the tree. >> anthony: that's funny. chef of the world-famous restaurant le bernardin in new york, to look at where chocolate comes from, particularly our chocolate, the very expensive, limited-run, designer chocolate bar business that eric got me into last year. so that's why we're in peru. but before we get all indiana jones, we're spending some time in lima, as we like the capital city just fine. and we have, both of us, from previous trips, friends here. lima is the cultural hub and culinary capital of a country that has exploded in the last decade with scores of world-class chefs, cooks, and restaurants. it has long been considered to be one of the best food scenes in all of south america. let's do it. >> eric: how far away is the house? >> coque: that's it. so, it's -- >> eric: over there? >> coque: yeah. five minutes. >> anthony: one of our friends here is chef restaurateur,

coque ossio. he's one of the best, most successful chefs in the country. his family are something of a beloved culinary dynasty in peru. and pucusana, a small fishing village about an hour south of lima, is where they spend their weekends. coque's mom, marissa guiulfo, is like peru's julia child -- >> marissa: welcome. >> anthony: -- james beard rolled into one. thank you for having us. a caterer, cookbook author, beloved icon of peruvian gastronomy. >> coque: this is the yucca. >> anthony: oh yeah, i'm going in. to say one is fortunate to enjoy her hospitality would be an understatement. >> marissa: pisco sour? >> anthony: oh yes. yeah. definitely. >> eric: i'd love one. >> anthony: warm, generous, welcoming beyond belief. >> marissa: it's too bad that you have to leave so soon.

>> anthony: yeah. >> coque: normally we -- we have lunch late, uh, like 5:00, or -- >> anthony: do you nap before lunch or after? >> coque: both. >> anthony: both. [ laughter ] sounds like paradise. wow, look at this. every weekend, marissa opens the house to an ever-changing mob of friends, visitors, drop-ins, and family. >> coque: this is fantastic. >> anthony: they do not skimp on the food. delicious, delicious things pour out of the kitchen. >> eric: wow. >> anthony: a torrent, a deluge of traditional peruvian favorites. >> marissa: this is a causa with crabmeat, the yellow potato, and avocado, and we love avocado. >> anthony: causa de congrejo is like a tureen of crabmeat, eggs, avocado, and mashed yellow potatoes. >> eric: okay. >> marissa: this is a tiradito, ceviche from the coast. >> anthony: beautiful. tiradito de pejerrey, basically raw king fish filets dressed with aji amarillo and lime juice. perfect. >> marissa: and that's scallop ceviche.

>> coque: a ceviche. >> eric: ceviche for sure. >> anthony: ceviche de conchas, fresh scallops with lemon juice, garlic and aji limon. [ coque speaking spanish ] >> anthony: drum fish braised in chichi de jora, a corn-based beer. >> eric: they look fantastic, huh? >> marissa: this is a rocoto. >> eric: spicy or not? >> marissa: it is very spicy. >> eric: very spicy, okay. >> anthony: oh, that sounds good. oh, and stuffed rocoto peppers filled with ground beef and raisins served with parilla cheese. >> eric: yeah. >> anthony: wow. >> eric: are we lucky, or what? >> anthony: we are lucky. and that's just the beginning. there's so much more food, there's no way we could show it all, much less describe it. it's incredible, overwhelming, invariably fresh and delicious and thrillingly different than what i'm used to. >> eric: yeah, it's fantastic. >> anthony: i could frankly get out of the chocolate business right now, put up a pup tent on marissa's porch, and pretty much dig in for the duration. this is living. >> eric: that's nice. >> anthony: yeah. >> eric: those little fish are

amazing. they're so fresh. >> anthony: i want to be her next-door neighbor. >> eric: it's incredible. >> anthony: wow. >> eric: it's so good. >> anthony: so, has peruvian cuisine always been this diverse and this delicious and we're just discovering it, or has it changed over the last 15 years? >> coque: it's change -- it's changing anyway, but you know, what you're eating now, it's the traditional food. >> anthony: there's so many products in peru that are unfamiliar to people in the states. when you eat this food, it's not like, well, this is something like -- no, this, uh, it's not really -- it's not kind of like anything. it's really all its own. >> marissa: there is a lot of ingredients, good ingredients, all year 'round. >> eric: the rocoto is very good. >> anthony: what do you do when you're homesick for peruvian food, uh, in your traveling? there's really no -- >> coque: we take some -- always some chilies with us in the, you know, the luggage. we are the perfect, uh, smugglers. >> eric: i believe you. i believe you do it, man. [ laughter ] >> anthony: i hate to say goodbye to this, but it is what it is. things to do, places to go, wild and apparently extremely rare cacao trees to visit. incredible meal. so happy. >> marissa: thank you. >> anthony: so happy. [ women singing in spanish ]

>> anthony: all i could say is, if people are anywhere near this nice on the rest of this trip, it's going to be okay. lima, city of kings, home to a third of peru's people. locals escape by hanging out at the beach. and why not when you can and maybe get a tattoo while you're at it. is that sanitary? ♪ you've been here before. >> eric: oh yeah, man. >> anthony: i take eric's suggestion, and we head over to

see chef javier wong, uniquely nonconformist seafood specialist, famous for his incredible and uncompromising ceviches and his flaming wok. if peru has a national dish, it's probably ceviche. the freshest fish only needs the right cut, a little citrus, and no heat. what's the most common thing that people do wrong? >> eric: the quality of the ingredients. you don't do a ceviche with something that is not ultra fresh. >> anthony: right. >> eric: the cut is very important, the thickness. >> anthony: right. >> eric: and when you do the ceviche, you don't do it too much ahead of time. >> anthony: the whole place is served whatever menu he's doing that day, same for everybody. and today, the flounder he got from the market is particularly nice, so that's what we're getting. generally thicker pieces to stand up to the spices and acids.

first up, an octopus and flounder ceviche. >> eric: i don't know what to tell you, man. it's damn good. >> anthony: mm. oh, that is good. >> eric: is this one very spicy, or no? >> anthony: you ever been spanked in your life and enjoyed it? yeah, me neither. i don't like pain. >> eric: except -- >> anthony: except -- >> eric: if you're spanked with a pepper. >> anthony: brutalized with a pepper, i like. >> eric: oh, that's -- that's really hot. >> anthony: tiradito of flounder, dressed with pecans, lime, aji limon, and sesame oil, which, clearly, eric likes. >> eric: ah, this is totally going to le bernardin. >> anthony: oh, really? >> eric: yeah. >> anthony: yeah, i see you're not like, foraging in the catskills for your inspiration. >> eric: um -- >> anthony: you basically just rip your ideas off of small businessmen? >> eric: javier. es stupdendo. >> javier: it's okay, tres bien? >> eric: si. it's -- >> anthony: oh, superb. [ javier speaking spanish ] >> eric: you want, uh, another little thing? >> anthony: sure. >> eric: si. [ javier speaking spanish ]

>> anthony: chinese and japanese immigrants came to peru in great numbers in the 19th and 20th centuries as contract laborers and farmers. and their influence is felt here, particularly in the food, to a greater degree than anywhere else on the continent. it's that influence, and the ingredients of amazonia and the andes, that really distinguishes the food here as something special. whoa, what is this, a tofu? >> eric: uh, no, queso fresco, no? >> anthony: this is a very kooky combination. i mean, is that pineapple? where'd that come from that's not traditional. >> eric: i mean, he looks asian to me. >> anthony: right. >> eric: so i believe he is probably, uh -- >> anthony: dude, his name is wong. [ eric laughs ] >> anthony: i mean, unless he's a retired porn star -- this shouldn't be good, but it is. >> eric: phew. >> anthony: working up a sweat on that one. yeah, i might have a couple more beers after this, a pisco sour, and then have a nice nap, midday nap.

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>> anthony: one more day in lima. the chance to delve a bit further into the cuisine before things get a little more old school. >> pedro: these are our special cocktails that we prepare here. it has a kind of lime that we find in the jungle. it has culantro. >> anthony: culantro? >> eric: culantro is like cilantro, uh, but it's long leaves and it's -- >> anthony: uh-huh. >> eric: -- much more powerful in flavor. >> anthony: it would be wrong to not point out that peru, along with brazil, is at the forefront of a movement celebrating the incredible and unique larder of ingredients from the andes and the amazon.

flavors you find no place else on earth. there seems to be a lot of interest in the last decade in the amazon because it's an amazing -- >> pedro: and you're right. >> anthony: -- spectrum of entirely new to most of us, uh, flavors and ingredients. pedro schiaffino is at the cutting edge of exactly that territory. his restaurant, amaz, explores the rivers, the ocean, the landscape of peru. highlighting a range of products that are stunning in their diversity, and to us, anyway, their newness. wow. >> pedro: this one is -- you've got grapefruit, tuna, and the cashew sauce. that is with, uh, plantain vinegar. >> anthony: mm. >> pedro: that's a cashew fruit. and so, the nut is a fruit, and in brazil and here, we use the -- as a fruit. >> anthony: mm. >> pedro: we make this, uh, scallops with, uh, wild almond. >> eric: the almond is very, very soft, like the flavor of it. it compliments really well. >> pedro: and this one is freshwater shrimp dashi made of taro root and a freshwater shrimp. >> anthony: mm. a whole different flavor spectrum, right? all new. it's almost like you need a new section of your tongue. >> eric: it must be so exciting because they are basically an amazing garden with the amazon. >> anthony: ooh, that looks

good. >> pedro: this is a soup made of ham with peanuts and corn, and, uh, it's called inchicapi. >> anthony: mm. mm. i'm liking the food. i am enjoying these cocktails, too. cashew, uh, caipirinhas. >> eric: oh, we're going to be wasted. >> anthony: yeah, we'll be fine. oh, whoa. >> pedro: so, these are also tradition. this is called pataraschca. they season the fish, the put it on a leaf, and they cook it. the fish is catfish. in the amazon, we have, like, 200 types of catfish. >> anthony: takes in flavor from the leaf, too. >> pedro: and here we have, uh, paiche. it's the second biggest freshwater fish in the world. underneath, you have a puree of aguaje that is a palm fruit, and the sauce is a reduction of fermented wild mandioca yucca. >> eric: fermented. >> pedro: yeah, this is, how you say, toxic or, uh -- >> anthony: or poisonous, yeah. >> pedro: poisonous. >> anthony: yeah. >> pedro: yeah, so they let it ferment and it becomes -- uh, you can eat it. >> anthony: these fish are unbelievable when you see them. uh, they get up to, like, 600 pounds. and they're swimming in water no deeper than a rice paddy.

>> eric: really? >> anthony: giant. they're like dinosaur fish. everyone has been saying for years that peru was going to be the next big thing as far as -- >> eric: yes. >> anthony: -- restaurants and -- >> eric: and it is. this really proved it. >> pedro: and we have a chili pepper made with brazil nuts, and these are ants. >> eric: wow, they're huge. >> pedro: they are huge ants. >> eric: okay. you think i should try it? >> anthony: yeah, yeah, totally. you're not loving that, are you? >> eric: no. >> anthony: imagine you took a lot of acid and then you ate that whole bowl of ants, and then you go home and you experience violent diarrhea. and, like, you're tripping and it's like, 4:00 in the morning, and you turn around and you look at the toilet and like, all these ant heads floating around in there. it'd be cool. >> eric: yeah, it would be super cool, tony. i can't wait. [ anthony laughs ] >> anthony: so now that we've confirmed what we already knew, that peru's food is unequivocally awesome, it seems proper that we take a trip back

in time to meet the forebears of this country's rich cultural legacy. the larco herrera museum in lima has a massive collection of pre-columbian artifacts. and, looking at them, you get an idea of what these ancient peoples were like, how they lived. wow. i mean, this is like the real stuff. >> eric: i think so. >> anthony: wow. >> eric: right, i mean, it's the real deal, yeah. >> anthony: gold necklaces. >> eric: that's gold, yes. >> anthony: you see why the spanish just freaked out when they came here, turned into like, maniacal greed heads. but history does not have to be boring. it can be sexy. i don't know whether you knew this, but i am an aficionado of

early erotica of pre-columbian and post-columbian eras, you know, like pottery of people doing it? >> eric: yeah, i should have known that. >> anthony: turns out things could get pretty interesting back in the day. oh yeah, those guys could get crazy, get wild, and apparently, very kinky. the erotic gallery. oh. there you go. that's a conversation starter. i take eric to the pre-columbian boning section. actually, the erotic pottery section. slipping her the tongue. >> eric: amazing. >> anthony: which sounds about as much fun as an all-nude renaissance fair, but is actually pretty cool. [ man in museum laughs ] >> anthony: nothing new under the sun that these pre-columbian horn dogs didn't think of first. ooh, that's disturbing. a man and a chicken, hm. >> eric: i'm not sure i understand this one, tony. >> anthony: i think we frown on that these days. [ eric laughs ] >> anthony: oh, wow, they -- they're doing it under a blanket. this must be after the spanish arrived to teach them shame. [ eric laughs ]

>> anthony: ooh, skeletons with boners. >> eric: they are zombies. >> anthony: oh, getting a zombie old-fashioned. >> eric yes, tony. i really appreciate your knowledge. >> anthony: i wonder whether this was decorative or whether this was early porn. >> i wonder if this was decorative or whether this was really porn. >> i think they put ain't closet somewhere. >> i bet this was right on the table. come on in, have a cup of tea. sit down. oh. here's some animal-on-animal action. pretty awesome. >> yeah. this is interesting. yeah. i'm happy we made it here, tony. that was an enlightened moment. ♪

>> something about steamy xxx pre-colombian erotica always makes me hungry. luckily at night, lima comes alive with the smell and familiar enticing sound of sizzling meat. it's time for delicious screamingly hot garlicky spicy flavor jack street meats. and as anybody who knows me is well aware, i love me some street meat. >> it is starting to disappear. >> really? why? >> the neighbors -- >> they complain? >> complain. >> our friend, coque, brought us to this place, to dona pochita, a street stall named for the lady who runs the joint. they specialize in one thing. anticuchos is -- for skewered meat. this stuff, they say, goes back all the way to the incas and as immediately popular with the spanish conquistadors as it is today.

which is to say, i must have some. traditionally a mixture of beef hearts and other animal hearts. >> hearts and gizzards. >> marinated in garlic, cumin, and onion, maybe a little vinegar. >> oh, yeah. >> grill it up and pile it on high. >> these are not small portions. these people are giving you mountains of food. it does not get any better. voila. let's do it. ♪ man, that's awesome. >> yeah. beef hearts. that is some magical [ muted ] right there. >> it's very garlicky. the marinade is nice. the tripe? from the pollo. chicken heart. >> that is seriously tasty. the beef heart or the chicken heart, the texture is so nice.

[ speaking foreign language ]. >> all right. i'm maxed out. really delicious. >> excellent. ♪ when i walked through a snowthat's when i knewtte, i hato quit. for real this time. that's why i'm using nicorette. only nicorette gum has patented dual-coated technology for great taste. plus intense craving relief. every great why, needs a great how.

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the city of chiclayo lies

about 400 miles northwest of lima. it's peru's fourth largest city, with over a half million people living there. it's our next stop, the staging area for our trip to the mountains to find our cocao. chocolate. we know we like the stuff. how is it made? where does it come from? columbus was the first european to encounter cocao beans on a mayan trading canoe off the coast of honduras. he's said to have grabbed both crew and cargo and brought them back to spain. a few decades later a spanish conquistador, hernando cortez, came across aztecs using the sacred beans as a drink. it was considered the drink of the gods. like most expensive and delicious things from abroad, the largely inbred and frequently syphilitic european royalty did their best to keep what was fast becoming a craze for hot chocolate to themselves.

but it soon found its way to america. in 1765, the first chocolate factory opened in new england. chiclayo's main market is a massive one-stop shop for all things chocolate as well as just about everything else under the sun. oh, man you have your animal skulls. that's tempting. haircut? >> i'm good. >> wow. >> cacao. >> this is the raw beans? >> that is toasted. >> then she -- >> grinds it. >> then puts it in a mold. gracias. >> bitter. >> not sweet at all. >> no. >> they don't put sugar. >> actually, here we are in the area of the market that is, i believe, where they have what they call santarias.

ripert, how should i put it? let's say he has more of a spiritual side than me. >> this is all the ingredients that you need for the shaman to bless the rest of the cacao. >> okay. >> so he has us shopping for what i guess i'd call shamanic supplies. which place are we going to? i like the lady with the sunglasses. >> i like it too. >> medical medicinal herbs with properties to help us bless the cacao crop. [ speaking foreign language ] >> this one is amazing. smells really good and supposedly purify the house. >> smells like hippie.

>> the shamans are really well respected in the peru region. they cure everything, do ceremonies. >> good? >> yes. >> our journey continues by road as we leave chiclayo and head east toward the andes. >> originally two hours north from here. you have the indians welcome you -- >> with blow darts. >> yeah. >> before we get too deep into the mountains, we're stopping off to meet our shaman. ♪ [ speaking foreign language ] >> anthony, he's going to teach us how to do the bath for the plants and for us. >> okay. [ speaking foreign language ] >> it's a meteor stone. [ speaking foreign language ]. >> he's cleaning. all the negative vibrations. ♪

[ speaking foreign language ] ♪ >> close your eyes. he cleaned you and he wished you a lot of success. [ speaking foreign language ] >> a little bit more, especially in the back, the neck, and the back. that's here, and the chest. a little bit like that. >> we wanted a blessing for our cacao harvest. we got this. my aura is now cleaner than gwyneth paltrow's colon after a three-month juice cleanse.

to a successful harvest. [ speaking foreign language ] but we're not done. we have to transport this stuff to our trees and finish the job ourselves. >> i know you won't believe it but the energy has changed. i'm serious, not joking. >> listen, i'm not disbelieving. i have an open mind. eric and i are heading to the maranon canyon, eight hours by car from chiclayo, well into the andean highlands. ♪ on the way, we stop for lunch and meet up with this guy. [ speaking foreign language ] >> chris curtin, master chocolatier and our business partner in this knuckle-headed adventure. one of life's great joys, eating

in a peruvian market. >> i love markets for breakfast. it's nice. >> so basically, a hen soup. that's good. where in the world does chocolate come from? >> well, 45% from ivory coast in africa. we don't deal in those beans just because of political situations. >> there was this stuff, the special chocolate. >> yeah. >> which pretty much is what we're here to look at. >> yes. absolutely. >> where it comes from, what's involved. >> eric ate some of chris's chocolate and heard about these wild cacao trees he was sourcing from in peru and promptly got me involved in this designer chocolate bar business. >> i'm a rather famous guy and i never cared about desserts. you on the other hand, eat chocolate everyday? >> everyday. >> so here we are, three men and a chocolate bar. good thing for the world or exploitive opportunism, yet to be determined. what do i, after all, know about chocolate.

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the maranon canyon. we're headed to meet some of the farmers that supply the beans that make our chocolate and get me an education in all things cacao. the roads up into these mountains can be tricky, so we

to take care of the local vigilante dudes that run a roadblock here outside of town. it looks like a shakedown but they're a welcome sight. this hill, where cars have to slow down, was where all sorts of highwaymen and miscreants used to waylay travellers like us. so these guys stepped in to take care of business. >> wow, that was a big shotgun. that will shoot through an engine block. actually, i don't really know but i'm assuming. at this time of year, there's also the rain and mud, which can mean flooded streets and streams that cut right across the roads. and there's this, the river. in the best of circumstances, a fairly adventurous way to get your vehicles across, a long

line across a fast moving current, the ferry propelled only by the flow of water. but today, the river is too high and the current too fast. it's these smaller boats or nothing. when dealing with complex transportation issues, the best thing to do is pull up with a cold beer and let somebody else figure it out. >> yeah. let's go in the boat. >> to my crew, i say good luck. we're headed for what looks like bar on the other side. [ speaking foreign language ]. let me tell you, it's quite a ride. >> i'll go the last. ♪ >> water inside the boat. look, look, look. the boat is sinking. ♪

>> you got to go down and then up, just right! we make it to the other side, reasonably dry. beer? the maranon canyon is home to a wide range of species including and most interesting to us a strain of the cacao previously thought to be almost extinct. a few years ago, the valley's cacao trees were dna tested at a u.s. lab and had dna of the rarest form of cacao in the world. this stuff. pure national. don fortunato is our cacao connection, a farmer whose family has been working these mountains over 40 years. >> they're just absolutely beautiful when they start out.

>> really kooky looking pods as they just come off the trunk of the tree. they sort of look like someone glued them on to the side of a tree. this is a once a year crop? >> it grows continuously but this is a peak seasons. >> try that. put one in your mouth. bite it and see the nibs inside? those are the cocoa nib. >> where does chocolate come from? >> the bean. okay. here's where chocolate comes from. the trees produce pods. you split open the pods and take out the beans. the buyer sun drys the beans, then roasts them. after roasting, the beans are extracted from their shells and ground up, producing chocolate liqueur. mix this concentrate with milk, sugar, cacao butter and you get what we call commercial chocolate. now, our chocolate bar sells for a nosebleed price that's high by even premium chocolate standards.

so where does the money go? most importantly to me and eric, are we doing a good thing? here's how it breaks down. the raw cacao costs one chunk. labor, the inner sleeve, this much. design, box, packaging, this much. various sundry equipment and miscellaneous, another small chunk. chris, me and eric get a slice out of every bar. that leaves this much, which the retailer takes. chef bleeding heart hippie here has already convinced me to give whatever meager profits we make off our first bar to a local charity. >> what's unusual about these pods? these beans? >> extremely high quality flavor. >> thought not around for a while? >> this is what almost all chocolate was made of over 120 years ago. and making a guy and comeback. for a chocolatier, this is a once in a lifetime find. >> about 40% of the beans from

these trees have white cacao beans mixed in. the rest are purplish in color. but we've heard of an ultra rare group of trees elsewhere further up the mountains that produce pods of all 100% pure white beans and that's something that me and eric are very interested in down the road. but for now, don fortunato's daughter, johanna, has prepared us a traditional peruvian mountain meal. >> wow. >> oh! >> juanes. >> it's rice dumplings with boiled chicken and achiote inside. >> wow. this is amazing. not surprisingly, some cuy, or guinea pig, of which there seems to be many around for the taking. this preparation served with a cacao sauce. >> that's good. >> all of this food is delicious.

>> so chocolate, it is a luxury food item. >> yes. >> this is an area abundant with coffee, chocolate, fruit. how's life for the locals? [ speaking foreign language ] >> he says that 20 years ago, 25 years ago, it was easier for him. he was planting soybeans and coffee. >> right. >> he was making much more money. and then he didn't plant soybeans any longer and the coffee production went down so therefore he had a financial struggle for a while and now with the cacao trees they are planting, he has no more stress and fairly upbeat himself.

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i'm in the maranon canyon of peru, with my partner in chocolate bars, chef eric ripert. and these are the white chocolate beans from a farmer and we set up a meeting with another farmer elsewhere in the valley. we thought it would be a nice gesture given all the culinary talent between us to make him and his family dinner in return for his hospitality. >> what are you thinking? >> butterfly marinade grill. >> you could do that with a nice sausages. >> which would be nice to throw in with stew. in chorizo, chicken, onion, peppers, a little bit of spice. >> and potatoes?

we're kind of moving into the spanish and what's it called? >> and we can use shrimp from the guy. shrimp and chicken works. >> that sounds like a plan. [ speaking foreign language ] >> you have 24? >> yeah. >> successful. >> yes. so far. but wait until we arrive there. it's going to be interesting. >> don't be a downer, man. i'm optimistic. we arrive at the village where the fabled white cacao beans are said to be growing and meet with the village's unofficial mayor and our cacao farmer, who will lead us to the trees. what was a depicted as a short walk up a short incline turned out to be an epic hump up one hill after another. >> when you tire up, you tell us. we stop. >> when i slump to the ground

and urinate all over myself, that will probably be a tip that i probably want to stop. another reason i hate the swiss, mountains. >> i love mountains. >> eric, who grew up in the pyrenees, is up the slopes like a gazelle. me, i feel every year of my misspent life with every step. >> oh, geez. >> this is cacao. >> are we there? >> no, no, we're not there. >> he's a baby. only 22 trees. >> i wish i could hear you over the sound of my exploding capillaries. >> okay. by the time we get near the fabled trees, i'm toast. gasping for air, waiting to puke from the altitude and the exertion. >> so, tell us again, what's unique about these trees? >> just because they are all white beans, all white. >> which is a rarity. >> so these are the only known

all-white, 100% pure? >> that's right. >> and why is that good? >> it's a new variety and gives new flavor profiles to it. >> i assume because i've humped up a big [ muted ] hill. excuse me. oh, nice catch. machete. >> watch your fingers, man. yeah. that's it. >> there we go. and i'm going to repeat myself. >> all white. >> remember the shaman. well, we still have stuff to do with the package he gave us. we do, presumably, want a good crop.

better get right with the spirit world. >> oh, geez. a little shaman juice thrown around, bury the purified soil, and there you go. chocolate magnates. well, good luck, dude, to a good harvest. quit. for real this time. that's why i'm using nicorette. only nicorette gum has patented dual-coated technology for great taste. plus intense craving relief. every great why, needs a great how. ♪ ♪ ♪

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covered by medicare and most major insurers. ♪ the trip downhill unsurprisingly is a lot easier on me. time for me and chef ripert to get cooking. back to basics. wood fire. ingredients from the morning and this old recycling system. here little fella. >> i'm ready for chicken. >> okay. here we go. >> and the red wine. >> notice how i neatly maneuvered you into the [ muted ] job. >> now we have to make the mashed potato and we're good. >> eric's mashed potato secret, around 50% butter. the glory that is france. i think they call it gout. okay. let's do it. ♪

[ speaking foreign language ] >> gracias. >> you guys can cook. >> some say. >> sometimes. [ speaking foreign language ] >> he's the only guy who has the white cacao. he asked all the farmers in the village here to do exactly what he has done. so the farmers are starting to copy him. >> right. >> and he's happy because it's going to bring wealth, in the legend, in the valley and the community. afterwards, don makes a traditional unsweetened hot chocolate preparation. ground cacao nibs, no sweetener, no nothing. just like the ancient kings liked it. >> there we go. gracias. the real deal. >> only water, and they will use -- >> before chocolate hit europe.

this is what the aztec kings would drink. >> they would be jealous right now. >> you'll get yours eventually. >> gracias. mucho gracias. salud. >> that's good salud. >> salud. >> gentlemen, to education. >> yes. >> so, did we do the right thing? is it all right for two new yorkers to make money, however much, or however little, off the work of struggling farmers in a faraway land? fortunada, alberto, chris, everybody down the line, all the way to the families who pick the pods off the trees, seem pretty happy to be doing what they are doing. but do i want to be in the chocolate business? that's something i'm going to have to figure out. but for now one last thing needs to be done to fulfill our shamanic obligations.

>> guys, you need to get out. the guy is coming with his bike, and he doesn't care. >> a bridge. a bundle of eucalyptus leaves. a badly working lighter. got to get right. >> smells like ganga. do you have a lighter? >> we need to burn this stuff and pass it around our bodies three times. >> got something. >> oh, too moist. oh, you got it, man. >> okay. >> smoking. >> that's smoking. i'm going to get it. hold on. now i've got it. >> let's do it. >> okay. oh, yeah, yeah, yeah. that's coming. i got it. we did it. >> over.

>> okay. done. hey. we have a problem with chocolate, i tell you that. >> get into the coffee business. /s hill skpoe we will hello and welcome do or viewers watching from around the world. i'm rosemary church and this is cnn newsroom. signs in washington there could be another government shutdown. that's because the president and lawmakers need to make a deal on border security funding by friday. but negotiations reportedly stalled over the weekend and accusations are flying around the white house about why democrats are not playing ball. boris sanchez explains. >> reporter: sources familiar with both sides of the negotiations between dra