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tangier, it's morocco. but from 1923 through 1956, it was loosely governed by the major powers, an international zone. for years, it seemed, everything was permitted. nothing was forbidden. at the northern tip of africa, a short ferry hop from spain, tangier was a magnet for writers, remittance men, spies and artists. mno kidding.rd. but moving your internet and tv? that's easy. if you were a bad boy of your time, you liked drugs, the kind easy?! easy? easy. because now xfinity lets you transfer of sex that was frowned upon at home and an affordable lifestyle your service online in just about a minute set against an exotic with a few simple steps. really? really. background, tangier was for you. that was easy. yup. plus, with two-hour appointment windows, it's all on your schedule. awesome. now all you have to do is move...that thing. [ sigh ] matisse, genest, william introducing an easier way to move with xfinity. burroughs. it's just another way we're working to make your life simple, easy, awesome. many have come this way, staying go to xfinity.com/moving to get started. a while or hanging around. but no one stayed longer or became more associated with

tangier than the novelist and composer paul bowles. in works like "the sheltering sky" he created a romantic vision of tangier that persists even today, a dream that's become almost inseparable in the minds of many from reality. i'm here to find that dream ♪ city. >> anthony: paul bowles lived in tangier for over 50 years and the place burroughs referred to cherie nutting was part of his as "interzone." inner circle near the end of his ♪ life. she was his friend, record-keeper of sorts, and photographer. you arrived, when? >> cherie: i came in the '70s, but i went down to marrakesh. >> anthony: mmm-hm. >> cherie: and then, in '86, i wrote a letter to paul bowles and said i had to meet him and take his picture. and he wrote back and he said, "come and visit." well, i never left. >> anthony: like, a lot of tangier like i said was a city of ex-pats -- people with pasts, people came here to live that dream or to live that life. uh, has the reality come to resemble his perception of the people who simply didn't like reality, or --? where they were and craved >> cherie: the tangier that i see is paul bowles, and i still see it. i still feel it. you can still find the magic. somewhere and something else.

the grand socco is the gateway >> anthony: the market, or souk, in tangier, is one of the best to the medina where you could find the kasbah, which means in all morocco. fortress, by the way. the food stalls and vendors are still pretty impressive. the port is to the east, and right in the middle of it all, wander the markets long enough and you're sure to stumble across the unexpected. hooves? sure. how about a lamb's head? the petit socco, called the last spot, the meeting place, the switchboard of tangier. here, nothing goes to waste. charbroiled to crispy burnt reasons for settling in tangier perfection, the meat is scraped off and served on a crusty lunch diverge, but everyone sooner or bread. later, since the beginning of memory comes to cafe tingis. not so adventurous? the grand socco's indoor market jonathan dawson came to this offers a variety of smoked, cured, and fresh meat. city over 20 years ago as a it smells good in here. this stuff looks good. journalist and he never left. oh, i've heard this cheese is he lives a life not too distant amazing. >> cherie: it's good, yeah. from burroughs' fantasy. >> anthony: could i have one? cake and tea at 4:00 every day served by his man servant. a berber favorite, fresh goat he may not have a gazelle, but a cheese wrapped in palm leaves. >> cherie: yeah, they're beautiful, aren't they? pet rooster will do. and every day he makes the >> anthony: it's good? rounds of the cafes, seeing all the old faces, ending up sooner a little cheese, a little

or later here. flatbread, the perfect moroccan breakfast to go. >> this is the petit socco? >> this is the petit socco. we are headed into the jibala foothills of the rif mountain yes. range. it existed in venetian times, about 85 kilometers south of existed in roman times, in the tangier to a place called jajouka. portuguese times and the english were here for 22 years and then the international city until the village is home to the people of the ahl-srif tribe, 1956, now here. this is a very historic square. very historic. which loosely translated means "the saintly people." >> as a writer, i've noticed everybody who comes here to do the article does the same jajouka is also home to one of article. >> it is so damn boring. morocco's better known musicians, bachir attar. they're all the beat generation and there are lots of other stories in morocco apart from jazz and rock and roll musicians that, but everyone likes the beats. have traveled from all over the world to jajouka to meet this guy. bachir is part of a lineage of master musicians all from this small mountain village. ♪ bill burr boroughs and all that ♪ stuff williams, they were all here, but that's a small part of the moroccan history. famously dubbed as a that's a 15-year page. there was a life before that and 4,000-year-old rock band by a life after that. you're here. william burroughs, bachir, his >> yeah. son and these musicians maintain it was inevitable. let's pretend those guys never

one of the oldest still-living came. what is this place? musical traditions on earth. >> the reality is, you can read the story and live it. people do come here and try to live it, but they don't stay very long. ♪ they smoke a little dope, go to a cheap hotel and go home with bedbugs. ♪ >> and a great story. >> and a great story. >> the attitude here is different than other parts of morocco. >> anthony: we're invited for i think they have a higher tolerance of tradition of bad or dinner. [ laughter ] it's family style, of course. outrageous behavior. >> they have a high tolerance of mad people, you know? beginning with braga, like a kefta pocket. hand-formed envelopes of dough but moroccans essentially are filled with seasoned beef, baked very tolerant people. until golden, then crisped in they quite like madness, as oil. well. they kind of celebrate that a bit. you know? >> how moroccan is tangier? i'm good for now. >> it's a moroccan city with a european outlook. well, one more. you can stand up on the >> bachir: mmm. >> anthony: uh oh, here we go. the main event: tagine of boulevard and see spain and gibraltar and see all sorts of chicken. people passing through, but it is a very moroccan city. i'm 62 years old. >> bachir: yeah, welcome, tony. >> anthony: thank you. i didn't know international days which finished in 1956, but at just gorgeous. that time, i think europeans may have outnumbered moroccans in the center of this city. it's not the case now.

there's very few europeans actually living here full time. >> the notion of living a life first, chopped onions, garlic, apart, of being somewhere else, parsley and turmeric are blended with olive oil. there are those who like that the bird is generously coated feeling. and stuffed. then after simmering in a touch i like that feeling. of olive oil and water, the chicken is fried till crispy. then there are those who may live apart, may live somewhere else, but they're not entirely comfortable. served with roasted almonds and olives, paprika and ginger. nice. it's the difference annoys them >> cherie: he smells the food. or is a burden. >> anthony: like anywhere else >> it did, and it frustrates in the arab world, eating with them. some people have to leave home your hands, always the right one, is proper dining etiquette. to find their home. i'm one of those people. whereas i didn't feel at home in >> man: this is special spinach. the country i was born in at all but here i feel okay. i feel very, very happy here. >> anthony: it's a wild spinach that grows in the mountains? >> man: yes. >> there is indeed something >> anthony: bakoula is chopped special about this place. mountain spinach, garlic, cilantro, hot and black peppers burroughs described the native finished with lemon and olive quarter of tangier as a maze of oil. sunless twisting streets filled with blind alleys. >> anthony: oh, it's delicious. >> man: yes. its smell was particularly >> bachir: i heard you have the notable to him, including a mix of hashish, seared meat and greatest taste for food in the

world, man. >> anthony: i love good food. sewage. [ laughter ] >> bachir: yeah. tangier, before anything else, >> anthony: after dinner, some is essentially a port city, with all the things that fruit, some mint tea and let the music begin. ♪ traditionally come with port for centuries, the master cities. musicians of jajouka have been it's situated at the choke point the musical choice of the royal between the atlantic ocean and families of morocco. the mediterranean sea. the moroccan coast is a rich excused by the country's rulers fishing ground and a lot of from manual labor to devote people make their living from themselves to musical training. the sea. ♪ onshore they use a method called sentul fishing, where weighted nets basically drag fish across ♪ the bottom of the sea. some of that fish, the good ♪ stuff, anyway, ends up here. ♪ the saveur de poisson, or restaurant populare or popeye's. the place has a lot of names, but locals and ex-pats alike who have been coming here for years say it has some of the best tagine in town. >> anthony: their powerful style of sufi trance music has

inspired many musical seekers, the chef and owner sources a lot of his stuff and produce and the including, most notably perhaps, paul bowles, who wrote about and he's real proud of them. them and recorded them and the back room is dedicated to sorting and drying various herbs which he blends into a secret spread the word. mix that he claims has all sorts brian jones was here and recorded "the pipes of pan at of healthful and bonner-inspiring benefits. jajouka" with these musicians. if every dish i have been told the word spread and the master musicians have ended up being featured on albums by over the years would make me maceo parker, ornette coleman strong worked, i would have a and the rolling stones. permanent pup tent going on ♪ down, there so i take all of that with a grain of salt. >> hi. >> hello. his son delivers the food. ♪ it all starts with fresh olives, >> anthony: for years, if you they're in season now and were a rock god, you had to come roasted walnuts. here. some warm, very good bread. dig the crazy percussion and squishy. strings and pipes that took you to another place. it's intricate, hypnotic, beautiful. and if you're in the right uh, oh, yeah, and you get in stuff frame of mind, mesmerizing. just go together. everybody gets it. a pulpy puree of figs, raisins, strawberries and full of mohammed's potent herbs and spices. of course.

now kayak and opentable let you earn travel rewards >> all night, 24 clock. >> yeah, yeah, i get it. every time you dine. it's supposed to make me more manly. earn points with each restaurant reservation on opentable you know what? and redeem them for hotel discounts on kayak. i'm eating. get started at kayak.com/diningrewards. let's not talk about that, okay sunshine? what is a tagine, anyway? it's an original moroccan stew that can include meat, vegetables or ship. tonight, baby shark, calamari and monk fish with fresh mountain tan spinach slowly cooked over charcoal the domed top is supposed to force the condensation back in to the dish and keep it moist and tender. that's delicious. i think it's the greens and the aromatics and the herbs, i have no idea what they are. never had anything like it. tangier version of farm to table. >> hi. >> wow. what's that? thank you. and a whole turbo, brushed with olive oil, salt and pepper and

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do not receive botox® cosmetic movie in your head, play the if you have a skin infection. bogey character you never were, side effects may include allergic reactions, injection site pain, headache, all against an all-too-willing, all-too-genuine backdrop. eyebrow, eyelid drooping and eyelid swelling. tell your doctor about your medical history, muscle or nerve conditions, and medications ordinarily just about the last thing in the world i'd be interested in doing is including botulinum toxins antiquing. as these may increase the risk of serious side effects. but buried in the network of twisting narrow streets of the so, give that just saw a puppy look old city is boutique majid. owned and operated and and whatever that look is. look like you with fewer lines. own your look personally curated by this man, abdelmajid rais el fenni. hello. with the one and only botox® cosmetic. >> abdelmajid: how are you? >> anthony: and he's one interesting guy. thank you. >> abdelmajid: come on in. >> anthony: when he was a little kid back in the '60s, majid left his hometown of fez and came here where he'd earn a few dirham a night emptying ashtrays at the wild and extravagant parties being thrown here by wealthy ex-pats. he saw what these people would buy for themselves and how they decorate their homes and started to look around for himself, scoring, then reselling art and antiques. wow. it became something of an

obsession. now his artifacts from morocco and all across northern africa are bought by collectors from all over the world. carpets, antiques, wood carvings, jewelry and old doors. wow, these are incredibly beautiful. tell me about that. ♪ >> abdelmajid: amber, coral, shells. these used to be currency, these shells. >> anthony: how old is this? >> abdelmajid: this is, uh, early '20s, late 19th. the amber is millions of years old. >> anthony: how much are you selling this piece for? >> abdelmajid: this is priced by, by weight. >> anthony: by weight? >> abdelmajid: it's quite a heavy piece, this one. 429 grams. so it comes like, uh, 42,000 dirhams. in tangier, i lived in one room in the native quarter. >> anthony: so that's how much in dollars? >> abdelmajid: like, uh, like almost $5,000, $4,500. >> anthony: about $5,000. i have not taken a bath in a >> abdelmajid: yeah. almost. >> anthony: shall we look at year nor changed my clothes or another floor? >> abdelmajid: oh yes, follow removed them, except to stick a me. needle every hour in the fibrous yeah, there is a nice collection of, uh, things from the sahara.

>> anthony: so you travel a lot? gray wooden flesh of terminal >> abdelmajid: little bit. not like you. [ laughter ] addiction. i never cleaned or dusted the room. >> anthony: oh, this is, uh, for empty ampoule boxes and garbage pounding -- piled up to the ceiling. >> abdelmajid: yes, yes, this is light and water long since turned off for nonpayment. from the gond tribe from mali. >> anthony: how much will this sell for, do you think? >> abdelmajid: around $300. >> anthony: really? i did absolutely nothing. for this? i could look at the end of my shoe for eight hours. that's very reasonable. >> abdelmajid: yes. i was only roused to action when >> anthony: i'll be buying that. the hourglass of junk ran out." that's going to be an old friend. >> abdelmajid: also, memory of tangier. >> anthony: and a memory of tangier as well. majid suggests lunch at andalus, the words of william seward burroughs, one of my heroes. a locals-only place nearby. he came to tangier in 1953, shortly after shooting his wife >> anthony: as a moroccan, so to death in a drunken accident in mexico city. many westerners who come to tangier come with a romantic notion of a tangier they read he was a heroin addict, a about in books. homosexual and an inspiration to do people have a realistic expectation when they come here? are they looking for morocco or those protohipsters who became are they looking for this phantasm? >> abdelmajid: no, no. it is a phantasm. known as the beats. it is. when you get here, you, uh, if you know morocco, you feel that you're in morocco, but you're not. there's a lot of mediterranean attached to this town. he was a somewhat stuffy, and also the history, people

well-dressed st. louis son of a hear a story about tangier that good family gone wrong. it was. he was also to my mind the greatest writer of the whole like when i first came in the damn bunch. on the road, you can have it. '60s everybody said to me, you came late. tangier. his classic "naked lunch" was written here. [ laughter ] >> anthony: it's -- right. >> abdelmajid: now i am saying the same thing as these young a nonlinear, dark, dry humored now, too. they come and they say "wow." searingly critical and satirical i say, "no." >> anthony: what was better about those days? >> abdelmajid: well, if you see, and profane masterpiece. for me at that time, i was young burroughs was apparently high for much of the process on and it was the boom of hippies. and it was the destination. heroin or locally valuable prescription opiate. café baba, you meet bob dylan, you go, you catch dylan, and the parties was going on. i miss these kind of parties. people fly from everywhere to and of course the daily staple in many of these parts, the party and they make the whole town move. hashish, keef and maldune. a blue and white party. hashish is the concentrated thc a white and gold party. resin of the cannabis plant as a hat party. well as the leaves and flowers that have been separated from you know, it's amazing. and you see people come in with the buds compressed into sheet amazing hats, like a cage with a bird. or brick-like form. extravagant hats, you know? a more local and indigenous it's, like, people put so much energy and time into these parties, you know? product is part of the plant look at that. >> anthony: ah, now that looks good.

contain ing containing only the strongest concentration of psychoactive ingredients. majune is a confection made from tomatoes brushed with local olive oil, garlic and coriander. keef, fruits, nuts, chocolate and honey. i was, of course, fascinated by this product since reading about liver kebobs, beef liver to be it and inquired of some local exact, grilled over charcoal. contacts who shall necessarily go unnamed. oh, now that looks very nice. how was it made? for fish, a bit of swordfish and some orange roughy. that is just beautiful. this is what i wanted to know. they were kind enough to mmm. >> abdelmajid: how do you like the tomato? >> anthony: yeah. oh, and the swordfish is demonstrate. amazing. >> abdelmajid: yeah. keef is first chopped into fine granules and slowly added to >> anthony: so, how else have things changed? melted butter and chocolate over >> abdelmajid: you saw how many tourists there was today? >> anthony: they were in a hurry. a low heat to toast it and release the psychotropic goodies within. >> abdelmajid: if they come to the shop, they even try to avoid your eye contact. while the binder element is slow they're afraid if i -- if you get my eye contact i'm going to rip you off, or i don't know. >> anthony: or make you buy cooking in the pan, it's blended with cashews, almond, walnuts something that they don't want. >> abdelmajid: i don't know. and dried fruit. i don't know. they have this -- >> anthony: do they buy? >> abdelmajid: they don't even this will be the framework to suspend the thc-laden goodness say hello. in the next step. >> anthony: they don't buy? >> abdelmajid: of course. the cannabis-laced butter we call them penguin. chocolate is added along with plenty of honey to bind together they have short hands doesn't get to the pockets. all the ingredients. [ laughter ]

i mean, i'm just kidding. then mix. ♪ and to say vip is an understatement, because i sawww justin timberlake. so he literally looked into the phone and started dancing-- well, he was already dancing-- locked eyes and continued dancing. last, you roll the entirety of i still have to like pinch myself and make sure i'm not dreaming. the mixture into a ball and either refrigerate or dig right every now and then, i'm like, "wait, did that happen?" in. (gasps) i've got photos of it, it must have. (vo) get more music on us with vip tickets to the best shows, of course, network standards and like shawn mendes and camila cabello. practices prohibit me from even plus, save big when you switch. only on verizon. tasting this delicious and reportedly mind-altering treat. i'm guessing, anyway. so until i see chris, john and wolf doing bong rips in "the situation room," i will, of course, abide by these rules because that's the kind of guy i am. there's one particular cafe in the heart of the kasbah that's drawn in foreign dignitaries, rock stars, aristocrats and artists since it opened its doors in 1943. cafe baba.

sweet mint tea in a thick slow-moving haze of smoke. it smells like my dorm room 1972. good evening, hello. this is george bajalia and introducing miracle-gro's next big thing. zeneb, and i should say right now that i have no direct performance organics. finally organics that work. tested and refined by plant scientists... knowledge of either george or zaneb smoking anything illegal for twice the results, guaranteed. substances or do i have any recollection of me doing don't grow a snack, grow a feast. don't grow a flower, grow a million dollar view. anything untoward in their this new organic collection of soil and plant food presence because that would be like, wrong, dude. is what you always wanted. no compromise, just results, guaranteed. george is here on a fulbright scholar and zaneb is an artist. others in the room, however, well, don't give me that miracle-gro performance organics. innocent look, you young punks. i know somebody in here is smoking reefer. how stoned are people here? >> we can ask, just ask. bookers book now and ask their boss later.. >> you're not getting totally ripped here? >> no. it's a functional part of daily life. [do you want breakfast or no?] [definitely breakfast.] for a long time, the rest of the be a booker at booking.com

country and the government didn't really like tangier a whole lot. it was seedy. there were foreigners who came here and -- >> it makes money. >> he sees it as a future economic super power as i understand it. he's talking condos, boutique hotels. is that good or bad? >> for moroccans, it's work, but of course ex-pats want to keep tangier like they know it before. >> i mean, this cafe is very similar to the way it was, but there's a tv right there. >> flat screen. >> that's why people come here. they come to watch soccer games. >> you can well imagine the american guy who's lived in tangier for 30 years. he comes in, there's a flat screen tv on the wall. he's like -- what? you've ruined the authenticity and the integrity, but the moroccan guy at the next table is, like, wait a minute, asshole, you have a flat screen at home. i want one, too. is wrong with ? >> there are people here who

probably have never heard of -- if you follow that, there's no progression, no progress, no change. the thing about cafe baba, just sitting here, taking in the atmosphere, you begin to appreciate the place. >> there's something different happening here. >> contact high, whoa, i'm hungry. wait until the spanish tortilla dude across the street opens for business. this is abdileh. he specializes in making one thing, and he makes it well. an omelet. it's like a spanish tortilla. but like stonier. the potatoes are boiled, diced, mixed with beaten eggs and cooked in a cast iron skillet. oh, yeah. the eggs. the egg man. i am me and we are you and where is my omelet, dude, because i am hungry. ♪ >> one, two, three?

♪ >> abdileh is waiting for you >> anthony: when tangier was interzone, back in the day, it right when you come stumbling seemed to some, i'm sure, as if out of cafe baba. ex-pats outnumbered the locals. that was never true. coincidence or not? you be the judge. >> ketchup and mayonnaise. but you certainly could live a everything. >> ketchup and mayonnaise? sure. life apart, make your own world why not? within the existing one. condiment options i will be hard pressed to turn down at this reinvent yourself and live precise moment anyway. entirely within a universe of your own creation. far from the grand socco is a >> love the mayonnaise. >> hmm. dude, that's awesome. 14-acre estate owned by i'll have 12 more. christopher gibbs, a well-known dealer of antiques and long-time ex-pat. today, he's having a garden party. e any time i want. who's coming? this is going to be so sick. jonathan, you know. maggie dean is from scotland. she's been living here for more than a decade. no matter if your journey takes six years or 72,000 miles, g.p. de richmont, a frenchman who has his hands in a lot of your volkswagen is covered with america's best bumper-to-bumper limited warranty. businesses, including a café in the kasbah. years living in tangier, unknown.

bianca hamri, an american. she's been here forever, led many lives, i gather, and occasionally translates books from maghribi to english. and the dashing and mysterious baron de coqueiros gondareus, an artist from chile who's been living and working in the kasbah since a hasty exit from puerto rico for reasons never fully explained. [ laughter ] on the menu, bastilla. a meat or often pigeon pie, as traditional moroccan as it gets. today, made by gibbs' full-time cooks, jamila and fatomah. in bastilla, the meat on this particular day is chicken, which is slow-cooked in broth and spices, pulled or shredded and then folded into an egg mixture, cooked in the reduced stock from the boil. this is layered with blanched almonds, powdered sugar, and cinnamon. and then, the whole lot is then wrapped in feuilles de brick, a

crepe-like dough. after baking to a golden crispiness, the final touch is a dusting of even more cinnamon and sugar. it's got a sweet, savory thing going on. and it's quite tasty. >> blanca: if you get nervous when you go in a room and you touch the light switch and the lights don't come on, you shouldn't be in this country. >> anthony: what was that first moment when you said, you know, i could live here? >> christopher: oh, i'm still quite unsure about that. um, i came here first in 1958, when it was quite different. um, everyone wore native dress. but islam is still the throbbing motor of life here. i have very tender feelings for morocco and the friendliness and courtesy of the people and the children who, you know, they don't say, "---- off, granddad," like they do in england. >> blanca: no, no, no. >> christopher: they say, "bonjour, monsieur." blah, blah, blah. >> blanca: i always feel welcome

here. i never consider that this is mine. it's theirs, and they've allowed me to live here in a very nice way. and i feel recognition. they know who i am. they know who i am. >> anthony: there is a side-by-side aspect to life here that's very unusual. cnn. you want if you do it with good manners. >> it is a station of the cross for, you know, bad boys of culture. i mean, rambo. iggy pop. the stones. burroughs writes and came here to be a writer. >> he was a junkie before he was a writer. >> as so many of us were. >> a place to think of yourself as a writer you would come here and somehow working within a romantic tradition. >> yes. >> burroughs said right up front, writer to me lounged around in a smoking jacket or a caftan and smoking littered with

sleeping boys. >> yes. >> or girls. >> to what extent did that world exist and to what extent was that world created by the people that showed up with that expectation? >> since bill departed, iep, dear, wonderful, marvelous man,- >> genteel now. >> he was the very opposite of genteel. he was an outlaw of every society. >> my husband knew him very well and he was saying that i cured him of being a drug addict. i said how? he said, i turned him into an alcoholic. >> who smokes hashish at this table? please raise your hand. >> is the camera on? >> put your hand up, bianca.

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world, getting a beer can be difficult. not here. as long as you're outside the medina, nearly anything goes. tangier reverts to its libertine past. here, western influences become very apparent. ♪ any night of the week is a good night for young moroccons to take to the streets. he's from a generation of moroccans far removed from the burroughser era. he's invited me out for a casual snack. tuna, eggs and a healthy wad of mayo. french fries within the sandwich.

this is delicious. by the way. the bread here is very good. you work in magazine journalist? >> yes. i'm not a journalist but i own an urban magazine here in tangier to inform moroccans we are living in a place that's pretty special. it is not a place for burroughs or paul bowles or other people came to tangier. the city has something which makes it different from other cities. >> what about young artists, young writers, young musicians? do they come here expecting this romantic paul bowles wonderland of the '50s? >> some were. some weren't. too bohemian. >> too bohemian? >> yeah. they thought that coming and being an artist -- >> is going to be enough? >> is going to be enough. today it is not enough. it's pret iffy tough for them most of them pack their bags. >> right. >> today we have so many investments going on here in

tangier thanks to our king. investors are here. tourists are attracted. but the most important part of it is we should keep the old parts of the city intact. the kasbah, the medina. that's what's hard to do because when you have a european purchasing power coming over here to tangier -- >> they come like we come. we embrace it. other people want to come. and then we throw up. wel tangier's unique character survive? >> i hope so. i really hope so. >> tangier is morocco. always was morocco. and recently the country's leadership seems to have embraced it. in all its ill reputed glory.

the days of predatory poets in search of literary inspiration and young flesh are probably over for good. hippies can just as easily get their bong rips in portland or peoria. but the good stuff, the real good stuff, the sounds and smells and the look of tangier, what you see and hear when you lean out the window and take it all in, that's here to stay. -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com

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