or looking to nature to challenge ourselves, and save lives. but most importantly, having a little more empathy for one another. the view isn't too bad, either. ♪ ♪ ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪

♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la,, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la ♪ >> anthony: they say, and by "they," i mean people from around here, that cologne is an ugly city. this is quickly followed by the proud statement that the people are nice. that they are welcoming, tolerant, kind, open to new things. i never saw cologne as ugly at all. i always saw it as, well, charming in the least patronizing sense of the word.

i mean, this city charms you. it takes you in. it makes you feel welcome. maybe it was the non-douchey beer culture here that appealed. i don't mean beer culture in a judgmental neck beard hovering over you waiting for you to decide between craft beers way either. i mean, but here decent beer is a way of life. it's a birthright. you don't talk about it too much. you freakin' drink it. beer here means, more often than not, kölsch. heinz grune has lived in cologne his whole life. >> heinz: cheers to the -- >> anthony: prost. he does marketing for several german breweries, so a kölsch is an integral part of both his social and business lives. kölsch is not a brand. what is this anyway? >> heinz: let's call it a style. it's a pale ale, and people love

to drink it in high amounts. >> anthony: malzmuhle brewery has been slinging beer non-stop for the last 150 years. democratic, utilitarian, welcoming to all people with a powerful thirst. i love the whole style. the little glass -- is this unique to cologne? >> heinz: other regions of germany, you won't find such small glasses. >> anthony: right. >> heinz: they start with 03 to 05. >> anthony: to the giant -- >> heinz: yeah. >> anthony: you know, if you have a giant thing of beer, it's like piss warm by the time you get down to the bottom. >> heinz: right. but here it's necessary because it is not very carbonated, and the foam disappears in minutes. there are guys who drink it in one sip. >> anthony: i'm not sure the exact blood absorption rate of alcohol, but i would think that if you're hammering these things back, it's hitting your bloodstream at the perfect rate.

>> heinz: maybe we have to name them alcoholic, but they are accustomed to it. >> anthony: there are certain iconic accompaniments to beer drinking when in cologne. like mettbrötchen, which is minced raw pork with onions on a roll. or halve hahn, which is simply gouda cheese on rye. this is really good. >> heinz: by now you see how it goes, no? you'll get the kölsch without ordering. >> anthony: i don't like this custom, though. i don't want to know how many beers i've had. this is -- >> heinz: okay, but he has to know. >> anthony: yeah, that's fine. can't he do his own little system? somewhere around here, i'm thinking, "geez, i've got a problem." it's when the himmel uhn erde or heaven and earth hits the table that i start getting deep into my happy zone. that's blood sausage, fried onions, and mashed potatoes with applesauce, which if you don't ,like, by the way, pretty much removes you from my "will save from drowning" list.

and then, there's this. the dish that almost alone brought me back to cologne. it was sweet, sweet memories of this stegosaurus sized shank of cured pork boiled and boiled until it literally falls away from the bone steaming and moist, a symphony of meat and gelatin and good, good stuff. god is hiding in there somewhere. >> heinz: cologne is a workers' town, you know? so the kitchen is definitely a workers' kitchen. >> anthony: and yet, it has a pretty liberal progressive worldview. where did that come from? >> heinz: it has something to do with the river. occupation here was trading, so the cologne people from the beginning were interested in other people, and they took profit of other people. we are not afraid of influences from outside. but therefore, it's also

important to have some traditions that are lasting for a long time. >> anthony: and one of those would be kölsch. >> heinz: one of its kölsch, one of it's a dish, and people know that they can come here, and it won't change. this place will not change in the next 200 years. ♪ cologne is or was a predominately catholic city, perhaps more mediterranean in temperament than those fun-hating lutherans and calvinists. it's germany's fun-zone and from november to february cologners celebrates carnival. partying here has a whole season. ♪ carnival here is an exuberant, anarchistic, bat-shit wild, 40-day celebration leading up to lent. it can be absolute mayhem. my completely rational fear of

clowns, mimes, parades, public dancing, and crowds in general really, prohibits me from taking part. these days brian jones could come back from the grave for one night only with the stones and janis and jimmy and jim, they could all be there. and you know what? i ain't goin'. but the cologners, god bless them. they love it. bei oma kleinmann handles enormous crowds of revelers. fortunately, the madness is still a few weeks away. and this is my old friend tracey who had the good or bad fortune, depending on how you look at it, to travel and produce shows around the world with me for

many years. anke is from cologne and makes me feel better about my carnival phobia. carnival. do you like carnival? >> tracey: i do, and i'm not ashamed to say it. >> anthony: will jesters and bards and medievally attired pranksters be popping up during my stay here? >> tracey: you're missing out. you're really -- >> anthony: mimes? no mimes, troubadours, jugglers, uh, human statues? >> tracey: come on. >> anke: all of them are wearing bonkers costumes and look like shit. i don't like it. no, i always get embarrassed about those people. >> anthony: i hate carnival. >> anke: i hate carnival too. >> anthony: are there parades? >> tracey: yes. >> anke: yes. >> anthony: i hate parades. >> tracey: okay. >> anthony: are there clowns? >> tracey: you hate clowns. >> anthony: i hate clowns. >> tracey: okay. >> anthony: jesters? >> tracey: yeah, occasionally. >> anthony: festive attire? uh, i have beer right now. i don't need no stinking carnival to drink beer, man. and as i understand it, i am urged to drink beer as part of a community of beer drinkers with other bros. i hate bros.

>> tracey: it's not just bros. it's a whole community of people speaking in dialect, singing songs in dialect. >> anthony: singing, i forgot to mention that. >> tracey: singing is good. >> anthony: i hate that too. >> tracey: there is another side, and if you open your heart, you would see it. >> anthony: my heart is a cold, cold place, and there's no room in it for jugglers. what did you think when you heard that i want to come to germany and go to cologne? >> tracey: that's awesome because cologne is like the other city in germany that i can really identify with. it's like i have this love affair with it. >> anthony: i often say that the places i go, there's a pheromonic decision made very quickly. you step outside the airport terminal, and you go -- [ sniffs ] and you know right away. "there's something about this place that's -- that i think i'm going to like." >> anke: a few weeks ago a

friend of mine from berlin came to visit me, and after three days he just looked at me and said, "anke, what is this? why are you all so satisfied? why are you all so happy? why are you all so relaxed?" i don't know, maybe it is because everybody's telling us that our city is ugly, and berlin is the big thing, and maybe we have to show with our hearts that we are good people and we are having fun and i think the kölsch is helping. >> tracey: for some reason every time i arrive here, i always feel like somehow the people are more open here to me being american and speaking german. and part of it is this carnival thing. >> anthony: really? >> tracey: maybe it's my own self-discovery of like being in another place and finally being accepted, maybe because i'm in costume and they don't know right away that i'm not german. >> anthony: right, it's sort of like an "eyes wide shut" kind of thing. >> tracey: no! >> anthony: this is what i came here for, though. surfboard-sized slabs of veal and pork filled with many wonderful things, dredged in breadcrumbs and fried in magical, magical deep fat. now that's a carnival i can get

behind. ♪ wow. >> tracey: that looks amazing. >> anke: wow. >> anthony: that is unbelievable. >> tracey: supposedly, you can split your schnitzel in half, take the other half home, and it's really good for breakfast. it's like the german equivalent of pizza in the morning. >> anthony: wow. this is a tradition i totally support. considering it's a beer drinking culture, at the end of the night, will there be two or three or five or ten people all hanging out like way past the point that they should have gone home? or does everybody reach a sensible point of intoxication or say, "well you know what? i'll see you tomorrow." i mean, they're forcing beers on us. i didn't order a beer, and another one just keeps coming. >> tracey: do you know how to

make it stop? >> anthony: face plant into my schnitzel? >> tracey: there's an easier way. you do this. that means, like, "i'm done." >> anthony: yeah, but nobody's doing that. >> anke: not yet. >> tracey: i'm not doing that. i assembled it myself last night. i think i did an ok job. just ok? what if something bad happens? we just move to the next town. just ok is not ok. especially when it comes to your network. at&t is america's best wireless network according to america's biggest test. now with 5g evolution. the first step to 5g. more for your thing. that's our thing. what is that?

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>> anthony: so, let's talk about the elephant in the room. we know that cologne is a proudly tolerant, fun-loving, beer drinking, pork-happy and friendly little city. but just a few days before we arrived, cologne became the focus of the whole argument over europe's refugee crisis. cologne of all places is now the example for both sides of an increasingly bitter argument over whether europe, and by extension the world, should turn their backs on the millions of refugees spilling out of syria, iraq, and a middle east spinning into chaos and slaughter. with the bodies of children

washing up on greek beaches and few other countries willing to help, germany has taken in 1.1 million people fleeing isis, russian and syrian bombs, and war. one should, i believe, be admired and even celebrated for doing the morally right thing over the probably wise thing. sakher al mohamad is one of many who found his way to cologne. hani zaitoun helps refugees as they try to integrate into german society. this is unsurprisingly easier said than done. getting to turkey, no problem. >> sakher: yes. >> anthony: turkey to greece, problem. >> hani: getting to turkey is now a problem. >> anthony: right. >> hani: but at that time it was not a problem. >> anthony: next, went from greece to macedonia? >> sakher: yes. >> anthony: correct? welcome there? no. serbia? no. were you welcomed here? >> sakher: yes.

very welcome. >> anthony: so here we are, cologne. one of the most liberal, if not the most liberal cities in germany. a city doing the right thing. and on new year's eve, the whole attitude towards refugees, not just european policy, but the whole moral question was thrown into doubt. cologne found itself to test case, both example of tolerance and hope and worst-case scenario. here's what was reported. on the night of december 31st, 2015, witnesses saw crowds of up to a thousand men described as predominately arab and north african near cologne central train station. some broke off into small groups, assaulting hundreds of women as they left the train station. police were completely unprepared. the situation continued reportedly for hours. three weeks after the incident, the official numbers were as horrifying as first reported. 766 criminal complaints, of

which 381 are sexual offenses, including 3 rapes. many across the world of course saw this as the perfect "i told you so" moment. a sadly understandable reaction. there is no minimizing 381 sexual offenses in 1 night. how big an affect is this going to have on the situation? >> hani: so all syrians that i knew were totally condemning what happened, and we absolutely cannot tolerate something like this because it's -- it's not a part of my culture, it's not a part of -- >> anthony: but do you think it will change the political climate, is what i'm asking. before it was relatively easy for a german politician to say, "look, have a heart here. let's do the right and moral thing." and it is being used as a club to beat any politician or leader who would like to have a more conciliatory or more welcoming attitude towards people who clearly need help.

>> hani: refugees are human beings. and some of them are good, and some of them are bad. there is 500 refugees who did this, and they're pretty bad. it's the fault of those who did it, but it's not the fault of the refugees. it's not the fault of the germans. >> anthony: the infrastructure exists more or less to handle this enormous influx. >> hani: an integration of 200,000 to 300,000 would be easier than integration of 1.1 million that entered in 2015. this is a challenge not only for the germans, but also for those who came to integrate in the community. it's something that have to be work -- work on from both sides, not only the syrians, but also the germans. the germans are willing to because they're pretty well

organized. ♪ >> anthony: germany and cologne had reason to believe they could pull this off. absorb all those refugees from a culture very different than their own. here in cologne, the turkish presence is larger than any other in the country. >> anthony: as i understand it, during the '60s, '70s, the german industry essentially recruited in cooperation with the turkish government, huge numbers of turkish workers. was that the beginning of the sizeable turkish population? >> melek: yes. it was. like my grandfather and my grandmother, they came here in the '70s. my parents, they started to work in a company like in the, a rural company. everybody has almost the same story in that generation. >> anthony: melek yaprak's grandparents were among the

first wave of turks to arrive in cologne. and to a great extent nowadays, turkish food is german food, the way italian, eastern european, jewish, and chinese have become american food. raki to start. >> anthony: prost. >> melek: prost. >> anthony: that brings me back. >> melek: yeah? this brings back istanbul to us. >> anthony: yeah. >> melek: when we go there, we have always raki and the bosphorus and here, this is like istanbul feeling for us. >> anthony: yeah, me too. and meze. spicy mashed vegetables, tzatziki, hummus, beetroot and olive dip, fried eggplant, pastries with feta, meatballs with tomato sauce and mint. whoa. that looks really pretty. >> melek: i don't think that you have any problems with spice? yeah? >> anthony: no, no, no. not at all. >> melek: not at all. all right. >> anthony: since you were born

here, how turkish do you feel? and how german do you feel? and when does that equation change? are there times when you feel like, "i'm not part of this," or other times you feel, "oh, i am definitely part of this."? >> melek: that's a question -- i'm thinking about all my life. in my heart, i'm turkish. in my head, i'm german. i'm glad that my parents wanted to have a good education for me. but still at home, they were turkish, like turkish traditions and turkish thinking, so i was always on both sides. and now, i'm adult enough to pick the best ones from both sides. >> anthony: growing up here as the child of turkish immigrants, how did you feel in school? you felt german? >> melek: yeah. yeah. >> anthony: so, why do you think germany's good at that? >> melek: the germans are very correct people. they want to have everything on the point. they don't like surprises. so they organize everything before. >> anthony: i mean, it's almost a cliché that it's organized. >> melek: it's not a cliché, it's organized. >> anthony: grilled minced lamb basted with hot tomato sauce and slathered with melted sheep

butter and yogurt. roast lamb with feta, bulgur, and roasted vegetables. ah, that's beautiful. >> melek: danke schön. >> anthony: so if you graduate from university here and choose to live in cologne, could you afford to live here? >> melek: yeah. you can. >> anthony: so it's reasonably affordable. >> melek: yeah. but because of the refugee situation i think living space is becoming less, like everywhere. >> anthony: do you think this is a pretty town? every -- most of the people i speak to say, "well, you know, we're a very ugly city." >> melek: yeah. >> anthony: but i don't think so. i think it's very pretty. >> melek: everything was destroyed after the second world war. >> anthony: yeah, it's not the most beautiful city in the world, but it is not an ugly city, i mean, at all. >> melek: hmm, i think, i'm more with the ugly city. >> anthony: you think it's ugly. >> melek: the buildings are new, ugly, gray, like made up after the second world war. there's only small, old town. >> anthony: right. >> melek: i miss the old buildings like in munich.

>> anthony: so 20 years from now, will cologne be the same? >> melek: i don't know. i don't want to think about it because now it's fine. i love it as it is now. >> anthony: i don't hear that a lot. you go to san francisco, rio, there are pressing problems, or that the character of the city is changing. the character of this city does not seem to be changing. >> melek: no. it stays as it is. captures 99% of dog and cat allergens. if it's not from irobot, it's not a roomba. you can't buy family bonding moments like this. actually, you can. and with the travelocity price match

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♪ >> anthony: if there's one musical movement or one band that represents cologne better

than this one, i don't know what it could be. created in 1964, with holger czukay, jaki liebzeit, michael karoli, and this man, irmin schmidt, can was at the forefront of what was called inevitably the krautrock movement. combining the sounds and attitudes of classical, avant-garde, rock, and funk. so you moved here -- how old were you -- >> irmin: i moved here in '64. >> anthony: interesting time, '64. >> irmin: it was a very interesting time. it was the time of -- where cologne was really blossoming. it was the art town in germany. >> anthony: irmin studied with karl heinz stockhausen, but it was a trip to new york city where he was exposed to what lou reed and the similarly classically trained john cale were doing with the velvet underground that would prove to be the catalyst for can. '64 was still pretty early days for cultural ferment, i guess. >> irmin: not here. >> anthony: not here.

>> irmin: not here. >> anthony: so the question is, why here? what was it about cologne? >> irmin: well, i think it's this generation, which were like me. we grew up in this after war, terrible destruction. and that was the generation which started to create something new. that was bubbling from everywhere. >> anthony: we're having dinner at ox and klee. part of the new cologne dining scene where chef daniel gottschlich plans to kill us with deliciousness. grilled scallop with black salsify. a consommé of burned hay, lemon gelee, and walnut oil. when you began can, what was the initial reception? >> irmin: in the beginning, they said that we are not able to play music. we were dilatants. >> anthony: but, i mean, you were all technically proficient

accomplished musicians. >> irmin: we were. we were all except the guitar player who was the youngest. but holger, jaki, and me had a musical career already behind us. >> anthony: right. >> irmin: of ten years. for us it was important to create something by more or less listening to the other and intuitively trying to create something spontaneously. we didn't even plan to become a rock group. >> anthony: was there a precise moment of which you crossed the line, and which you all looked at each other like, "wow, i guess we're sort of -- i guess we're a rock group now."? >> irmin: i'm not sure we ever said we are a rock group. >> anthony: grilled lobster with a dashy of eel, marinated algae, fermented kale, and yuzu froth. if people were to draw a direct line forward to bands and musicians who were influenced by your music, for instance, you know, people mention the bowie, iggy pop, berlin period and a lot of other great work. what about edm? do you share the blame? >> irmin: no.

>> anthony: is it good or bad? >> irmin: it's good. >> anthony: it's a positive thing. >> irmin: it's positive. >> anthony: electronic dance is. >> irmin: yes, sure. i mean, you can't -- anywhere you can't actually classify any style or any kind of music as good or bad. it's not bad. >> anthony: but it excludes the musicians. traditionally is it the opposite of what music should be? is it all okay? >> irmin: i have no idea what music should be because whenever you start knowing what should be, you are already starting a new dogma. >> anthony: yeah, i hear you. >> irmin: there are djs, which make fantastic music, and they make it for a certain purpose. and that is the purpose of this environment and they fit. neither the purpose nor any dogma can be used as a judgment for new music. >> anthony: braised ox cheeks with marrow, beetroots with mustard, gratin potatoes, black

truffle. you don't get paid for the influence you have on the culture. >> irmin: no. >> anthony: no. >> irmin: i wouldn't complain about that. i mean, we never consciously did something intending to make money. we still have fans which are 16 years old and think this is music created yesterday, and it's 45 years old. >> anthony: does that feel good? >> irmin: that's very -- that's satisfying too. >> anthony: an amazing meal, but you know, the heart wants what the heart wants. and baby, i'll always come back to you. and if history teaches us anything, it's that chefs no matter how elevated their food, how fine their restaurants, chefs at the end of a long night

want this. grilled bratwurst with curry. daniel and his friend dimitri come here to fressbud for the bratwursts and the spiessbraten. which is just what you need at this hour. marinated, rotisseried shoulder of pork. >> server: mayo? >> daniel: mayo. mayo. >> anthony: oh yeah. oh, i feel so ashamed. drunk or sober, good is good. and i want this. you want this. we all want this, right? where did currywurst come from? i mean, this is a truly fiendish idea. it sounds like a really bad idea. >> daniel: nobody knows, really. >> anthony: nobody knows, it just appeared one day. ordinarily i'm totally against mayonnaise on fries. >> dimitrios: yeah, they don't even ask you sometimes. yeah, they just put it on there. >> daniel: and they will put like 50 cents for mayonnaise. >> anthony: man, that's good. the legend is cologne is very accepting of new cultures, accepting of new obviously

cuisine. why? >> daniel: that's a good question. >> dimitrios: i guess we have a lot of gay people here. people say it's like the san francisco of germany. >> anthony: it's a very catholic town. catholics are not notoriously, you know, pro, you know, gay friendly. what happened here? >> dimitrios: that's a very good question, you know? >> daniel: yeah, i don't know the answer. >> anthony: it's sort of like a nightmare scenario for a conservative. you're saying it's basically immigrants, homosexuals, and artists have made the town what it is. can i find work here? >> daniel: as a chef, yes. as a good chef, yes.

>> anthony: what if i were a mime? >> dimitrios: there's actually a lot of them here. >> anthony: prostitute. work here? >> dimitrios: yeah. a lot of them. this is like the biggest brothel in europe. >> anthony: you know, that doesn't sound like a good thing. smallest and most discreet might sound -- that sounds better. biggest -- >> dimitrios: yeah, well, it's also famous for its parties. so you can probably undercover go to a brothel. you say like, "oh yeah, i'm just partying." >> anthony: why of all the places in europe would the largest brothel be here? >> dimitrios: basically every month there's like a big convention here. so i guess if you're looking for company, maybe that's why. >> anthony: it's a city of contrasts. i mean, on one hand, it's very catholic, you would think conservative. if you look at the menus of a lot of the places here, very traditional, pretty much the same menu at a lot of the places. and yet, then there's your place. they're all doing well. it's very confusing. i need more beer. >> daniel: yeah. >> anthony: three more? >> woman: three more. yes. >> anthony: please. >> man: three? >> dimitrios: yes. >> man: no problem. >> anthony: that's what i like to hear. >> dimitrios: cheers. >> daniel: cheers. >> anthony: cheers, guys. just listen. (vo) there's so much we want to show her. we needed a car that would last long enough to see it all. (avo) subaru outback. ninety eight percent are still on the road after 10 years. come on mom, let's go!

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♪ >> anthony: cologne. you gotta love it. they support artwork that might get you punched in the face elsewhere. performance artist, painter, and cooking enthusiast, rene stessl works and lives here.

his current project is called the restaurant of the egoist where you dine alone with a full-length mirror across from you at the table, which is weird, right? oh wait, let me get a selfie. did i instagram my food yet? >> rene: the restaurant, you know, it's a question. it's a bad thing. or it's also a good thing. i found out or it's fact that it's also a good thing because simple example, if you help a guy sitting on the street, needs money, you give him the money. you help him, of course, but you help yourself feeling happy, feeling lucky because you helped another. it's a kind of energy, a kind of

engine who makes people helping other people. >> anthony: kleine glocke has been a hangout for cologne's artist community since the first world war, which seems like a bad business model. but it seems to work. they like artists in cologne. >> rene: you can feel free with the way how you think, and it's all about the colognians. i don't know why the colognians are like the colognians, but they are the most tolerant and open people i met, and that makes it easy for artists because you can go onto the streets and really make experiments on the street with your art, and nobody sends you to the police. >> anthony: are chefs artists? >> rene: no. no. there is a connection between painting a picture and doing a sauce because you have to find a balance and this is the only one connection. >> anthony: i happen to agree with you. as much as we might like to think of them as artists, i think chefs are probably craftsmen, or artisans. i think there's one chef who i

would argue is an artist. i would hold up ferran adria as an example of an artist. >> rene: as i know he don't believes he's an artist, no, he says, "i'm a cook." >> anthony: yeah, but i think he's wrong. rheinischer sauerbraten. traditional sauerbraten. good sauerbraten. but morrissey is going to brown out his shorts if he sees you eating this because it is, how shall i say, equine in origin? old bessie didn't quite make it to the soap factory. >> rene: you like horsemeat? >> anthony: yeah, i do like it actually. this is one of the few places that still does it. >> rene: yeah. >> anthony: the arbitrary decisions we make about what animals we're gonna eat, even i do. you know, 15 years, i've been eating all over the world, i've never eaten dog. >> rene: if you are cute as an animal, you are lucky. >> anthony: i think it's the eye. big eyes, it's not food. >> anthony: too bad they're out of the panda today. that would piss some people off. i kid, i kid. no panda. rene is hitting the schnitzel hard, and i see he has opted for the egg on top. >> anthony: so cologne, proud in its attitude towards art, artists, different cultures. germany has accepted somewhere

in the neighborhood of a million refugees. how do you realistically say, "welcome to germany. we're all gonna learn to live together." can that be done? >> rene: it could be done, of course, but i hope that all the right-wing people will not develop, and this is for example, a job for an artist, maybe we should go out, 100 people with nazi uniforms and walk through the city. maybe these kind of actions will just make the people remind of the time and what our grandfathers did wrong. we really have to take care that we don't fall back in these structures. >> anthony: but we kind of are. >> rene: we are on the way. >> anthony: i don't mean here, necessarily. we're well on our way. >> rene: i'm allowed to be naïve and talk about utopias. it's a kind of utopia just the fact that the whole world will mix up with each other, that in, you know 70, 80 years, there will be no white people anymore, and only cappuccino-colored people. >> anthony: that's the only way. >> rene: it's good. >> anthony: that's -- this is the only solution for this.

>> rene: yeah. >> anthony: my way of thinking, it's our only hope is to -- our way out of this. >> rene: yes. >> anthony: it's going to take some time. but it's really the only way, this sort of singaporean model where everybody's so mixed up that you really don't know who to hate because everybody's so hopelessly intertwined, but we're a long way from that. i assembled it myself last night. i think i did an ok job. just ok? what if something bad happens? we just move to the next town. just ok is not ok. especially when it comes to your network. at&t is america's best wireless network according to america's biggest test. now with 5g evolution. the first step to 5g. more for your thing. that's our thing. what is that? uh mine, why? it's just that it's... lavender. yes it is, it's for men

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relationship between cologne and its sister city dusseldorf is a study in differences. most notably, the beer is different. the attitudes are different. it's -- if you listen to partisans from either side, a short trip, but another planet. do they speak a different language here or something? >> judith: yes, it's a different dialect. >> anthony: it's not an accent. the actual words are different. >> judith: yes. >> heinz: the words are different, the spelling is different, and also the meaning

of some words. >> anthony: and the beer. most importantly the beer is different. >> heinz: and the beer. yes. in cologne we have a pale beer, a light beer, and here we have really dark beer. >> anthony: right. >> heinz: it's called alt. but it's not "old" as the word alt means. >> anthony: right. >> heinz: it's surprisingly fresh. >> anthony: fresh. i would like some fresh beer. >> heinz: yes. >> anthony: uerige obergarige is another one of those old and awesome german institutions designed to serve the maximum number of people the maximum amount of beer and pork products with maximum efficiency. look at this. opened in 1862 and able to serve a hundreds of people day and night, it's a marvel of orderliness in an uncertain world. heinz and his friend judith introduce me to alt, the completely different beer the dusseldorfians drink. it's quite good.

>> heinz: and me, as a cologne person, i must admit there is a lot more taste in this beer than it is in kölsch. unfortunately, after three or four of these beers, i'm full. >> anthony: so as a utility everyday beer, kölsch has definitely got an edge, you could drink it all day. >> heinz: yes, but the dusseldorf people, they are accustomed to it, so i think they can do 10 or 15. >> anthony: pickled eggs. peel, cut in half, remove the yoke, add mustard and bit of oil and vinegar, return the yoke, and go. perfect for beer drinking. it's work, but it's worth the effort. you can do this yourself. i thought it was cologne that was supposed to be working class. >> judith: yes, yes. this is working class, yes. >> anthony: there's not a lot of love between dusseldorf and cologne. why can't we all get along? >> judith: there was a battle in the 13th century. >> anthony: right. >> judith: and dusseldorf won the battle, and that was the

moment dusseldorf got the city. >> anthony: right. >> judith: the rights -- >> heinz: the city rights. >> judith: the city rights, yes. they have a different history, of course. they are a little bit more administration, more a little bit posh. >> heinz: much more posh. >> anthony: how would they describe each other? "oh those people in dusseldorf, they're all stuck up there. they care about outward appearances, and they're all administrators and they don't really work," or, i don't know. i mean -- >> heinz: that was a perfect explanation. >> anthony: cabbage and mettwurst, which is simply kale and sausage and delicious. and spicy pork goulash with rye bread. wow, that looks healthy. well, kinda. >> heinz: there's one difference as well. when i was a little kid in cologne, i'd never heard the word dusseldorf. >> anthony: what do they do, do they say "the other place"? >> heinz: no. even not that. it was not part of our conversation, of our thoughts, of our -- >> judith: of your words. >> heinz: of our words.

the first times when i came to dusseldorf, i learned that the dusseldorf people, they look to cologne because it's the small -- >> judith: that's the difference. >> heinz: it's a smaller town. and cologne is more in media. >> anthony: which city's better? >> heinz: yeah, only one answer that's true. cologne. for sure. after walking six miles at an amusement park... bill's back needed a vacation from his vacation. so he stepped on the dr. scholl's kiosk. it recommends our best custom fit orthotic to relieve foot, knee, or lower back pain. so you can move more. dr. scholl's. born to move. don't worry. travelocity is there for you with 24/7 customer service. now, if your flight runs out of those mini bottles? then, you can worry. travelocity. wander wisely. ensure max protein... to give you the protein you need with less of the sugar you don't. (straining) i'll take that. (cheers) 30 grams of protein and 1 gram of sugar.

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>> anthony: why? what accounts for cologne, some would say un-german relaxed and open style? one explanation might be the "dead-roman theory." i have suggested that the presence of long dead roman legions enriches the soil making for good wine and a propensity for frolicking and drinking that wine. it is, i hasten to add, an idiotic theory. but i want it to be true. cheers. maurizio arca here is german-italian. sort of. so, you've been represented to me as italian, but you're sardinian. >> maurizio: yes, i am. >> anthony: this is a whole different thing. >> maurizio: it is definitely. >> anthony: my father-in-law and his whole family are from nuoro. >> maurizio: really? >> anthony: so i am well

familiar with sardinia, and i know that, you know, this is not a dialect, this is a language. >> maurizio: yeah, right. >> anthony: and there is some ambivalence about whether they even consider themselves italy. >> maurizio: they don't consider themselves as italian because they've always been left alone by the state, and i don't know italy. you know, i've been in sienna, i've been to rome, i've been to milano, but that's it. >> anthony: so italy is a more foreign country than germany. >> maurizio: yup. >> anthony: you couldn't find me an italian? i mean, what the --, man? >> anthony: celentano bar doesn't look like much, but what they're serving is deceptively good. antipasti, gratzi, carpaccio, tomatoes with pepper, parmigiana, grilled zucchini, mortadella. the italians came during the period i guess in the '70s to work in factories along with the turks and the eastern europeans, and everybody else who came in?

>> maurizio: like my dad did, for example. he worked in a cow factory near osnabrück. >> anthony: was your neighborhood italian, or mixed or german? >> maurizio: it was mixed. there were more like these homes made for the guest worker program. you know, all immigrants were like stuffed in there. >> anthony: and integrated. >> maurizio: yeah. >> anthony: meaning the italians all lived together. >> maurizio: not all italians, but lots of immigrants, like turkish people, italian people, surrounded by germans. >> anthony: what do they think of the food, your parents? like when they first -- look at all the cabbage and the potatoes and the giant hunks of cured pork. >> maurizio: they love potatoes, that's for sure. but all this other stuff like haxen, they don't like that stuff. >> anthony: when you came home from school, what did your mom cook for you? italian or german? >> maurizio: just italian. >> anthony: just italian. this is no surprise.

>> anthony: and spaghetti alle vongole. so life is good as far as i'm concerned. give me a good spaghetti with white clam sauce and i don't need much more. maybe some wine. everybody here says the same thing, "we are open minded. we try to be fair to everybody. we're welcoming. we're proud of that. that will never change." do you think that the refugees who are coming here, that they will be integrated into german society as efficiently and as gracefully as your family was? >> maurizio: i'm not sure because times are so different to the '80s. >> anthony: but, look, germans are organized. >> maurizio: organization is just one fact. you need to control, to handle this, but um -- >> anthony: look, all the people who were involved on new year's eve, do you think that if they get work, that if people are kind to them, if they're given housing, do you think eventually germany will figure it out? >> maurizio: i'm not that optimistic to be honest, because i'm convinced that it's not a german problem. >> anthony: right. >> maurizio: it's a world

problem. it's a european problem. we're all stuck in the same boat. ♪ motivational speaker: prosperity is productivity, not just hard work. you can be very hardworking and still be broke if you are not productive. [ drumming ] your life condition today is an outcome of choices and decisions made in time past. good choice, bad choices, easier choices, or no choices at all.