merchants of venice and eat the dishes they created with them in their city by the sea. very clever people with a taste for adventure. this is technically paris, and this is the banlieue, a six-lane highway separates two places right next to each other, but emotionally and philosophically, they're a world apart. >> when was it you came for the first time? >> you know what? i never came here on my own. no one comes to this neighborhood. americans really don't. who is going to tell you to come here? >> yeah. >> how would you find out about it? it's not in a pamphlet. and i was amazed. because the moment you come off

the subway, you don't feel like you're in paris. >> no. >> the paris that you see. it's like the first time i went to brooklyn. this is new york? it's the rhythm and the energy of the place. that's fantastic. that's when you know you've left the main strip of paris when you start seeing signs that say "i met god. she's black". not going to find that next to the tuileries, not going to happen. >> i'm colton mccoy. raised and educated in d.c., raised in kitchens around the world. i'm a nomad, driven to move in and out of different culture, different worlds. to celebrate diversity by embracing what makes us both unique and the same. after all, we carry our travels with us to the next destination. that's what life is all about. let's do this. ♪ >> ah, paris.

♪ >> ah, paris. it's hard not to fall in love. when i first visited this city, i was 26 years old. i was studying for the master sommelier exam and had a decade of cooking classic cuisine under my belt. like so many before me, i came here with a romantic notion of what i would find, and paris didn't let me down. i ate and drank my way through the city. the river seine, the louvre, the champ-elysees and the eiffel tower. ♪ tick-tock, tick-tock ♪ >> paris saul of that, but it's also so much more. coming back again and again over the years, i've discovered that what it means to be parisian is actually deeply complex. i've started exploring beyond the center to the outskirts of this great city, to the suburbs. or as they say in french, the banlieue. some of the most exciting art, music, culture and food is actually coming from here.

and every time i come back to paris, i'm able to dig deeper and explore more. so for all intents and purposes, this isn't technically the subway. it's like a commuter train. this is for people who are commuting from longer distances, typically outside of the city center. the city is split into 20 interior neighborhoods called the arrondissements that circle out. everything on the inside is considered paris proper. everything on the outside the suburbs. also known as the banlieue parisian. surrounding are dozens of suburban communities, each with their own personality and flavor that all fall under the umbrella of greater paris. but most tourists, as well as many parisians never venture outside of the city center. everything in downtown is really sort of engineered to be like a french disneyland.

but ultimately, i think once you leave that center of the city, you start to see what life is like in paris, how people live. it was my love of french food that first brought me to paris, and it's my love of french food that is kicking off my journey to the suburbs. only out here, the definition of what is french is a whole different story. >> we have a server in training here. she has her pen, note. cheers? >> cheers. >> reporter: wendy nguyen is a photographer and founder of indie magnificent arcades which documents life in the suburbs and the diversity each neighborhood brings to the cultural mix. including a sleepy green suburb to the east of paris that has the highest proportion of asians. she is inviting me here to experience the type of cuisine you can only find in this neighborhood.

this is a hodgepodge there. is a reason why you ordered. i looked at the menu. you could see a lot was vietnamese and there was some thai, chinese, all in one. is that normal here, mixed cuisines? >> yeah, because you have different immigrants from different -- and that's why you have this fusion of foods. >> so this is like an expression of how the community is? >> yeah, exactly. >> that smells great. >> this is the soup phnom penh. i eat since i was a kid. and i can only eat it in france. so you have to mix it. >> so the cambodian soup -- is it actually cambodian? >> i was asking my parents. they were saying in vietnam, people say it's cambodian people cook this, or chinese people that went to cambodia that then went to vietnam and cook this, and then those people went to europe. >> it's very complicated.

>> it's super complicated. the broth is made of dried shrimp, dried squid, and you've got pork bone. and then you have the noodles. the vermicelli rice noodle. >> the noodles are then layered with prawns, minced pork and fish cake and topped with sauces, cilantro and scallions. this is fantastic. but the broth is great because it's actually pretty delicate. you have this unique thing here where all these asian cultures collide. when someone asks you, what are you, where are you from, that sort of question? >> it's a good question, because i definitely say i'm french. but then i can see the look of people. >> where are you really from? >> you look a bit asian. yes. okay. i'll just instantly say french to see people's reaction, because i love that. >> because you are french. >> because i am french. at the same time, i also feel

like in france, the notion of race is quite taboo. who is really french or who's, you know, who really represent like france, you know. it's something that's really hard to talk about. the good thing is i see the younger generations, the kids, they are less afraid of speak:00 it, which is good. >> do you think that your work will perhaps help parisians to engage more with these neighborhoods? >> hopefully can influence to come out and meet those people. >> maybe you can convince them with the food. because it's really hard. the food is incredible. let's just eat, you know? you can teach about six different asian countries just on this table. >> in just this dish, exactly. >> like windy, i come from a mixed background. i'm often faced with the question what are you? where are you from? in the u.s., we're just starting to wrap our heads around the idea that people can come from multiple backgrounds.

it's fascinating how this is going down in paris, and i need someone to break it down for me. someone who has a foot in both worlds. >> i never understood why you have to be so quiet in church. where i grew up, church was very loud. so this is a pretty significant church? >> if you're a king in france, you governed in paris. and then when you died, you were brought here. >> so they're buried here? >> every king. >> like they're here? the body are here. >> mike ladd is an american hip-hop artist who has toured the world and spent the last 17 years living in paris. he invited me to the basilica to talk about how urban culture in paris is different from suburban culture in america. >> all the bones from clovis are here in this great big black city. ♪

>> it was the historic resting place for the monarchs of france. >> it's the last thing i expected to see in saint-denis. i didn't expect to see this church, very grandiose. >> it's at least 60% muslim. but everybody is here. >> give me an idea what is a banlieue like? what are these places? >> if you keep new york in mind. >> that's how i tried to understand it. like a borough. >> if you keep a new york frame of mind -- >> now you sound like nas. >> but a banlieue is exactly what it is. it's a suburb. the only difference between our concept of a suburb, our concept is still the 1950s concept. the suburb were the bucolic place where the nuclear family that was white would go live, especially when they were scare to have had black people in the city. here it's different. when black people started moving

into central paris, central parisians didn't leave. they're like oh, why don't you go out to the banlieue. so you have poor and working class suburbs all the way over to very wealthy suburbs. essentially, it functions like a clock. say saint-denis is noon. so if you go up to 10:00, 10:30, all the way down to 7:35, that's all working class suburbs and different demographics too. people of the african diaspora down to the caribbean down to about 5:35. and then a significant asian from vietnam and also a big chinese population. and as soon as you get to sur seine and saint cru, oh, that's just rich. >> we need to discuss this. how you went from boston to the

ban loo. >> first, it was boston bronx. >> boston to the bronx to the banlieue. this is an autobiography in the making here right now. >> yeah, it was a love story. i moved here strictly for love. and then everything happened in a whirlwind. i feel like a fish out of water. and somebody, a friend of mine calls me up. hey, i'm staying in saint-denis. come out and see me. are breath of fresh air, just like going to d.c. in the '70s. chocolate city. ♪ it's the people cooking shish kebab out and shopping carts it's all these different smells. i could go down one street and feel like i was in dakar. could go down another street, feel like i was in tangier. go down another street, feel

like i was in casablanca. and it's that being able to voyage within a city that i love. >> so how do you deal with -- oh, sorry. i'm constantly reminded. i'm not a quiet talker. >> are we getting in trouble? >> i'm a pentecostal. i talk like a pentecostal. >> you speak in tongues too? >> i never did. i was cynical, i used to watch people do it. not me. that's when the jewish side came out. >> my wife is second generation black american in france. and then her father is french-french. >> that's an interesting thing, huh? it's always the asterisk. >> right now that whole dialogue is getting really complicated because there are certain conservatives that want, you know, people of color to just say that they're french. >> which is weird. in america, we're used to the hyphenated thing. everybody i know from jersey is italian american. my family, african american. >> the thing about france is since the revolution, when we

said all men are created equal, they said liberte, egalite, fraternite. they took it verbatim, up to a point. but at least on paper, that meant it was illegal to discriminate. rules against taking census on account of race. what it means, though, it means there is no paper trail to expose all the racism that has happened over the last 300 years. >> liberte, egalite and fraternity means liberty, equality and brotherhood. it's the backbone of french universalism, which says you are french first and foremost. but why can't you be french and still embrace your cultural roots? after all, this isn't a white country or a black country or an asian or muslim country. france is constantly evolving based on who lives here. that's what truly defines its identity, the people that call it home. >> "nomad with carlton mccoy" is

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>> saint-ouen is a suburb that lies on the northern edge of the periphery. historically, this neighbor was a no-man's-land populated by the nomadic community known as gyp gypsy. celebrated for its jazz music and flea market. it's quickly become a mecca for a diverse group of young talent. >> ooh la la! >> but today i'm here for the food. >> your wine is a big classy wine, right? >> what does that mean? >> it's an expensive wine. >> that's got nothing to could with it. >> i have a simple wine. >> i'll be the judge of, that if it's simple or not. >> okay. this is a rarity for me. i'll let you decide which wines we drink. >> all right. >> i'm having lunch with fleur in the city of albo, two women who are leading voices in the food and wine scene here in saint-ouen.

a publicist turned chef that is starting to appear on many paris lists. flour owns an international food and wine distribution company here in france. >> that smells great. >> we tried to make it a little salty. >> look, there is no one definition for what makes a wine natural. but the general concept is that natural wine is made at the very least of organic grapes and processed with no additives or preservatives. >> this is beautiful. >> for those who aren't winos, there is a pretty contentious relationship between the new crowd and the traditional. as long as people drinking wine, i'm happy. >> this looks beautiful. >> this is the billy. >> and you grill it? >> i grilled it. >> what's readily apparent in her cooking is her unique take on african french fusion. >> it's a very special dish from africa.

the sauce is red mixed with a bouillon of smoked fritsch. >> we use gumbo. >> okay. >> you use the same word? >> we call it okra, but okra is used in the dish called gumbo. it's sort of a convergence of french, african, african american and native culture into one. >> this is beautiful. this is very interesting to me because this is like not traditional french food. and we're sitting in the middle of paris. >> but this kind of food is very inspiring with all nationality we have here. like we have more nationalities. all the time at school when we grew up, we eat everything. we try the couscous, the gumbo. >> france has a long history of colonialism across africa, asia, and the caribbean. following world war ii and decolonization, many immigrants from former french colonies settled in the suburbs of paris

and brought their food traditions with them. >> i grew up minutes from here. >> so how was it growing up here? it's very different in the center of paris where it's a bit more of a mono culture people. and out here it's like you don't feel like you're anywhere close to what we know as paris. >> i remember when i was younger, it was like the worst place. >> yeah. >> what do you mean by that? >> you heard about the no-go zone. >> i grew up in one. washington, d.c. is that place. it was that way for a long time. >> for me, it was so cool to be here, to grow up with all of the people, different people, different culture, no really violence. >> i never got any problems in the spree. >> me neither. >> it wasn't your experience? >> it was not. >> places are like that very often. >> exactly. >> i think it's really beautiful. this is a peanut sauce. peanuts are very african. you are okra gumbo, the sate,

this is incredible. this is a new thing. >> this is a new thing. this is the reason i'm cooking. >> you can mix all the culture. if you are curious, and if you are gourmand, you can mix stuff and everything, if it's tasty, it will be okay. >> i went to culinary school, and i would say you actually don't learn how to cook in culinary school. you just learn techniques and recipes. cooking is something some people can do it and some cannot. >> it's not all about technique. >> it's about love. it's about pleasure and love. >> i think it's one of the most beautiful things for cooking for people. you bring comfort to them. you nourish them. i love cooking for people and watching them eat it. >> what is this? >> it looks like you're very thirsty. flour, i've got a heavy hand. i was a sommelier for a long time. the job is to empty the bottle so they buy another. you would be my perfect guests.

no-go zone or not, it's easy to see how places like this, on the fringes will absolutely shape future menus in the city center. i'm headed further outward to another place that's been called a no-go zone. it's way off the beaten path in the outer reaches of the northern suburbs. let's be clear. tourists never come here. but i've been invited to watch street ball with artist and photographer marvin bonaire who grew up taking pictures in the louvre and now in the garden. so how long have you guys been doing this? inspired by the famous african cup, le cans is an annual football tournament held yearly. players form teams with their family's nation of origin and face off. it's one of the biggest nights of the year here. >> this is putting my

neighborhood basketball games to shame. this is legit, man. >> yeah. >> when we were coming here, everyone was asking us, why are you going here? but they've never been here. >> no one came here. they think it's a dangerous and crazy because everyone say that. but actually, if you come here, look at. >> yeah. >> what is under us? nothing. >> nothing. >> i come from one of these sorts of neighborhoods, the type of neighborhoods that often made the paper. it's so important for people to remember these places you see on the news are also people's homes. >> it's different. >> it's a bit different than america, i think. here you have to make a choice between be friends or be your origins. not officially. your passport, your friends. i mean, how you feel. because sometimes you're not feeling french, especially in a place like this.

here is called the center. so here is nothing like just houses, no galleries, not too many shops. >> but you create your own culture? >> yes. all the good culture from the suburbs. ♪ ♪ >> no, but that's cool. i love that. i was raised in a neighborhood very similar to aulnay-sous-bois, and the media only seemed to report on our hardships. the good stuff always got buried. this community, much like where i grew up, is filled with joy, laughter, love and pride. i've never felt so home in a foreign country as i do here.

>> in the rest of the life, we've been nowhere because we don't speak french. >> you sort of live in the gray. >> yeah. so that's why in these events, you feel somewhere for just one minute. ♪ if an oral treatment is right for you. oral treatments can be taken at home and must be taken within 5 days from when symptoms first appear. if you have symptoms of covid-19, even if they're mild don't wait, get tested quickly. if you test positive and are at high risk for severe disease, act fast ask if an oral treatment is right for you.

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i'm a black and jewish man, one who grew up in a pretty impoverished part of america. the journey from where i started to where i am now has allowed me to move in and out of different places in the world, to connect with different cultures and people. and it all began when i was 17 years old. i won a cooking competition at my high school and was awarded a scholarship to the culinary institute of america. that changed my life. i love cooking, and classical french cuisine spoke to me above the rest. i still love to cook now, even if i am a little rusty.

now we take a union break. but if i'm going put on the chef whites, this is the guy to do it for, chef christophe pele of restaurant le clarence. his sous chef is helping to translate, and for good reason. >> i have ptsd from french chef yelling at me in french and i have no clue what they're talking about. >> this is not like the suburbs. we're definitely not in the suburbs. located in the 8th arrondissement, he was awarded two michelin stars and is owned by chateaubriand. the oldest and legendary in france. they've been growing grapes for centuries. their bordeaux chateau is classified first growth of which there are only five. there is like the lamborghini of french wine. it's awesome. i've never had an experience like this before. sort of like playing when the parents are away, you know,

which is very special. >> cardamom? >> yes. >> chinese clove. vietnamese? >> exactly. a french classic, consomme, but done in the style of vietnamese pho. i've never seen it prepared like this. tell him i have a leather tongue. while chef pele may be cooking

in a very traditional kitchen on the champ-elysees, he is not from the center of paris. he comes from the banlieue and was raised in a social housing project before moving to the city center at age 25. it's interesting. it's when you have a love for great wine and great food, ultimately, i speak some french, but you almost don't need to speak the language you. sort of get it. there is a look and a nod. and to me that's almost unique to what we do, that you can

travel around the world and share this connection. so to be able to be here cooking with the chef, it's very special. sort of chef pele's version of classical cuisine, but has found his own unique way to modernize his own cuisine just a touch. the timelessness but boldly finished with caviar, leg of squab, squab again, but chicken fried this time and topped with japanese mustard and cured ham. classic french dishes turned on their heads, as exciting to eat as they were to help prepare. >> that makes sure that the fattiness of the foie cuts through everything. this is a bold move. for a very long time these dishes never changed. but each dish has to be incredibly untraditional or multiple things. this is not something that someone who is typically raised in this cuisine would do.

>> the subways were people dreaming, really go at it to come to the city, you know what i mean? so maybe that's where this force of doing this kind of things comes from. >> i understand. i grew up in a neighborhood where no one ate haute cuisine, no one. no one drank wine. people were working class, just trying to make it. i think when you're not from this place, you're more driven, like to prove yourself, to create an identity. i think i see that from the banlieue here is when people make to it the city, it's like you give it 110%. and you wake up and you're the chef of le clarence. you know? chef pele's approach to cooking really resonates with me. while some may see this as nontraditional, to be honest with you, this is authentic french cooking.

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♪ paris has always been a hotbed of creativity. from haute cuisine to high fashion to french cinema, music and dance.

but in many ways, it's best known for being the birthplace of some of the greatest art movements of all time. i didn't grow up with art in my life, but as an adult, it's become a big part of my identity. like cooking, arts what become a big creative outlet for me. i was first introduced to the art world exploring museum here is in paris. but one thing that quickly became apparent to me was the distinct lack of black and brown perspectives. i'm heading back to saint-denis to meet who people who are on the cutting edge of paris's art seen who look to change that. >> in france you are exposed to art. but you're exposed to the domination of a culture of others. what you are seeing are works of them by them about people like us. >> miriane ibrahim is an artwork powerhouse. she has a beautiful gallery in chicago, and she is opening a brand-new one in paris. mariane including her friend

raphael barontini. >> western people who were colonizing africa. >> as a black person or as a mix as a brown, thinking to make art requires a lot of audacity and a lot of confidence. because what you are motivated is what you see that look likes you. >> for lunch, a home-cooked meal inspired by rafael's italian and caribbean roots. mango and shrimp salad. tomato and mozzarella. acra. >> going to mix, and it's now translating in my paintings and my works. >> do you think like being able to be in this neighborhood and in this space allows you to do your work better? because you always talk about musicians, especially rappers. they become famous. they're really inspired by their environment where they're raised. but moment you leave, you lose your connection with the content. >> that's absolutely why i'm

still here. it's because you can see in a way what could be france in the future. >> is it france of the future or is it the france of now and maybe in the future they'll accept it? >> you're right, you're right, i think so. i think so. >> i was raced in a neighborhood much like this where i was never exposed to art. i didn't even know that there were black artists until i was an adult. like literally. and i remember the first time i saw an exhibition. i remember walking around being in utter shock. so you sort of feel cheated, but at the same time proud at the same time. >> so what you experience at that museum was transformative because you felt counted. >> what do you think it is unique about the culture and the identity of the banlieue where it seems like it is like the breeding ground for great athletes, great artists? >> sometime i feel that because of economical reason, we have to be in the outskirts of paris.

saint-denis and this type of suburbs has the same -- yes, it's the same history. >> yeah. >> of layers of immigration for economical reason. we have to be inventive and recreate ourselves. >> the expression of the immigrant french experience is the new art movement in paris, making space for voices that used to be marginalized and reframing the classics. and as always, it's the younger generation that will continue to push these stories front and center. where i grew up, it sort of breeds a regret that you don't necessarily have when you're raised in a fairly comfortable situation where you're always accepted. i think the banlieue here creates that same dynamic. i see the same grit, the same hustle as we call it where we come from. and this resourcefulness to create something to thrive.

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♪ you have a beautiful garden. do you help with the garden? >> yes, cutting. you have a garden. >> am invited to have an alfresco lunch with the fan family, northwest of paris. julian pam is one the most influential people in the

parisian food scene. he's one of those guys i knew i would hit it off with before i even met him. he's definitely one of the cool kids in paris. in addition to being a consultant and restaurant tour, he's the creator of bridge street food magazine and founder of family first, but focused creative agency that appears big brands and megastars with bold new concepts. we could've got the best table at any fancy restaurant in paris . instead, he wanted me to try his mom's home cooking. >> he's a troublemaker. you can tell. >> [speaking foreign language] >> what's in the inside? beautiful. >> this is cal tong.

cal tong. >> to the this is a fit mayonnaise family-style meal. >> once a month i come back here? >> in france we say bon appetit. >> in new york too. >> this is so good. so simple. we have rice peppers with them, and then you roll your own. when i was going up, it's not even a sunday thing, it's an everyday thing. the most important things were the food on the table and the beers for the uncles. they would tell crazy stories especially after the end of the

war. you see me, i look asian. but everything in my daily life was telling me to be french. they want me to be french, but they don't allow me to be french, because there always telling me that i'm not french. >> how do you think this is bs give you what you needed to be able to endure? >> it gave me character. nothing was giving to us. >> you had to hustle pick >> it is so important for me to take you here because we did not grow up in that house with a garden. it's a nice house. but it is the result of 40 years of work, hard work. in my 30s, i realized i wasn't either vietnamese or french. i was both. maybe stronger than all of the other people.

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>> is influence is stressed-out left and wide. even here, in case you did know, it is the french white house, president emmanuel macron and lives here, and somehow i got an invitation. >> i wish i had dressed nicer. it is what it is. >> this isn't a tour or anything like that. i'm here to meet with someone super special, the shift to party at the palace kitchen pick >> the house doesn't work like a restaurant or hotel. this is the first house of

france. we are like a display for the world. >> the shift is a first generation immigrant. he grew up in the suburbs. he now? for the president and his wife pick >> it is a pleasure to meet you. i was a fan boy on your instagram. i also love ornate classical french cuisine. about as close as you can get. but the people don't know how to cook anymore. >> today he is preparing an old- school french dish that we both love. >> this has fried rice pick >> this is a local artichokes and white rhyme finished with her. and of course it is perfect. >> where did you start to learn this food?

i would say even in france that there are only a few restaurants that cook this kind of food anymore? >> what i have noticed is that most of the shift you see today , they get an influence from their grandmother, their mother. me, i don't have the same path. i came from africa. i was nine years old. my mom, i was the only one. she raised me. >> where in africa is your mom from? >> when you're a kid. you have dreams. even if i can't reach it, i will try. >> the person who brought me here and 2022 he said where would you like to go as a joke. the person wasn't expecting this the name to come out of my mouth. it is what it is. >> that's pretty cool. you can from togo, you told

someone that you are going to cook at the palace and here you are cooking for the president. >> it is a good story. >> it is probably even cooler to live it. >> we come from totally different backgrounds. like so many people i have met on this trip, we are who we are because of where we are from, not in spite of it. >> there is magic in coming from the other side of the tracks. some of the most creative person are from the fringes, the no go zones, the outside and this creativity didn't just happen. >> is a metaphor for the new paris. >> kind of. >> is a direct result the electric cultures collide and create something brand-new. my experience is conferred what i already thought about the world. culture is not static.

national identity is not static. it is ever evolving, al -- as is the heart of the city. come with your eyes wide open. revisit these places enthusiastically. change is exciting. i can't wait to see what paris becomes next. >> this is cnn breaking news. >> hello pick a warm welcome joining us in the united states and around the world. we are live in ukraine. the long-awaited effort to evacuate civilians stranded at a mariupol steel plant are finally underway. a short time ago, we could see another tent