tv Nomad With Carlton Mc Coy CNN May 7, 2022 7:00pm-8:00pm PDT
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visiting the venito today we can experience ingredients brought home by the merchants of venice and eat the dishes they created with them in their city by the sea. very clever people, with a taste for adventure. this is a perfect. this is technically paris. this is the ban yew. the six lane highway separates two places next to each other but emotionally and philosophically they are sort of a world apart. >> when was it you came for the first zblim i never came here on my own. number one comes to this neighborhood. americans don't who comes here in how would you find out about it? it's not in a pamphlet.
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and i was like amazed the moment you come off the subway you don't feel like you are in paris. >> no. >> the paris you see. the first time went to brooklyn. it was lake, this is new york? it's the rhythm and the energy of the place. that's fantastic. >> that's how you know you left the main strip of paris when you see signs i met god, she is black. you're not finding that next to the gardens. not going to happen. i'm carlton mccoy raced in inner city d.c. educated in kitchens around the globe. these days i make a living as a master sommelier. i'm a nomad driven to move in and out of different cultures, different worlds. so celebrate diversity by embracing what makes us both unique and the same. . after all we carry our travelers with us to the next destination. that's what life is all about. let's do this.
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ah, paris. it's hard not to fall in love. when i first visited this city i was 26 years old. i was studying for the master sommelier exmany aen a a decade in cooking classic french cuisine under my belt. like so many before me, i came here with the romantic notion of what i would find. and paris didn't let me down. i ate and drank my way through the city. the river sign, the champs elysees and the eiffel tower. par sis all of that. but also so much more. coming back again and again offer the years i've discovered that what it means to be parisian is actually deeply complex. i've started exploring beyond the center to the outskirts of this great city, to the suburbs, or as they say in french, the bon lieu. some of the most exciting art,
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music, culture and food is actually coming from here. and every time i come back to paris i'm able to dig deeper and explore more. >> all sense of purpose this isn't like the subway. it's like a commuter train. for people commuting from longer distances, you know typically outside of the city center. >> the city is split into 20 interior neighborhoods that spiral outward from the center. encircling the neighborhoods is a ring road called the boulevard petition periphery. everything inside is paris propertyo proper. everything outside, the suburbs, also known as the banlieue parisian. surrounding the privr eek are dozens of suburban communities each with their own personality and flavor that fall under the umbrella of great are paris. but more tourists as well as many parisians never venture outside of the city center. >> everything in downtown is
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really sort of engineered to be a french disneyland. but ultimately once you leave that center of the city you start to see what life is like in paris, how people live. >> it was my love of french food that brought me to paris. and it's my love of french food that's kicking off my journey to the suburbs. only out here the definition of what is french is a whole different story. >> we have a server in training here. she got her pin. >> cheers. >> keers. >> when you go in as a indy magazine. documenting the suburbs. and the diverse neighborhood bringing to the mix. a sleepy green suburb east of paris has the highest proportion of asians anywhere in france. she invites me to her favorite
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restaurant to experience a type of cuisine only in this neighborhood. >> this is a hodgepodge. i looked at the menu. you could see a lot of it was vietnamese. and there was thai. chinese all in one. is that normal here mixed cuisines. >> yeah, because you have different just different immigrants from different -- that's why you have in fusion of food. >> this is like an expression of how the community is. >> exactly. we -- >> that smells great. >> so this is the soup. the cambodian soup. s in the soup i eat since i was a kid. >> okay. >> i can only seat it in france. >> the cambodian soup you only eat in france. >> i was asking my parents, they were saying in vietnam people say it's cambodian people cook it in veelt nam or chinese people that went to cambodia
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that went to vietnam and cooked this. and those people went to europe. >> very complicated. >> supercomplicated. the broth is made of dried shrimp and squid. then you got pork bone. and then you have the noodles. it's like the miso like rice noodle. >> the noodles are leader with prawns minced pork and fish cake and topped with oyster sauce. cilantro and scallions. >> this is fantastic. but the broth is great because it's delicate. you have this unique thing here wall all the asian cultures collide. i don't have a question what are you where are you from that question. >> it's a good question because i definitely say i'm french. i can see the look of people. >> nowhere are you really from? you look a bit asian. >> yes, okay. i just instantly say french just to see people's reaction because i love that. >> because you are french.
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>> because "i" french. and at the same time i also feel like in france the notion of race is quite, you know, loo is really french or who is like, you know, who really represent like france, you know? it's something that really hard to talk about. the good thing is i see the younger generations, the kids they are less afraid of speaking about this. >> yes. >> do you think your work will perhaps help parisians to engage more with the neighborhoods? >> hopefully you can encourage people to come out and meet the people. >> maybe you can conshinsvince with the food. the food is incredible. the white flag of let's just eat. you could teach about six different aging countries in this table. >> just this dish, exactly. >> like wendy i come from fakesed background often faced with the question what are you where are you from?
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the u.s. we are just starting to wrap our heads around the idea that people can come from multiple backgrounds. it's fascinating how this is going down in paris. and i need someone to break it down for me. someone who has a foot in both worlds. >> yeah, i don't understand why you got to be so quiet in church. where i grew up church was very loud. so this is a pretty significant church. >> yeah if you are a king in france. you governed in paris. >> yeah. >> when you died you were brought here. >> so buried here. >> every king. >> like they are here. >> mike lad is a american hiphop artist toured the world and spent the last 17 years in paris. he invited me to bass league sanity saint denis. >> all the way to -- in this great big black city.
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♪ >> saint denis was the historic resting place for the marqs of france but now one of the most diverse neighborhoods in france. >> i didn't expect to see in grandiose church surrounded by muslims. >> exactly. it's at least 60% muslim but everybody is here. everybody is in this city. >> yeah. >> give me an idea what- what are these places. >> i mean if you keep a new york frame of mind. >> that's how i tried to understand it like a borough. >> exactly if you keep a new york frame of mind you're just in a borough. >> now you sound like noz. >> but a banlieue is a suburb. the only difference between our concept of a suburb our concept is a 1950 the suburbs were the bucolic place where the perfect nuclear familiar that's white go
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live. especially when scared of the black people in the city. here it's different. when black people started moving into central paris. central parisians didn't leave. they're like why don't you go out to the banlieue. so you have poor and working class suburbs all the way over to very wealth suburbs. >> essentially functions leak a clock. saint denis is noon if you go up to 10 would be 10:30 down to 7:30, 5:00 that's working class suburbs. people from the african dia spora. or the caribbean start 10:30 coming down to about 5:30. and then you have the significant asian from vietnam but also big cheyenne population. then as soon as you get to like seren and san clue that's just rich. >> i think we need to check back
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because we haven't discussed how you went from boston to the banlieue. >> well, first, it was actually boston, bronx, banlieue. >> boston, bronx, banlieue. >> it's a love story. i moved here strictly for love. and everything happened in a while wind. i feel like a fish out of water. a friend ever mine calls me up and say actually i'm staying in saint denis come see me. i remember come out of the r.e.r. stp stop and the breath of fresh air like going to d.c. in the 70s. chocolate city. ♪ people cooking shish ka bob in shopping carts. all these different smells. i could go down one street feel like i was in dakar. i could go do down another
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street feel like i was in tangier. go down another street feel like casa blanka it's that voinl in a city i love. >> how do you deal with going -- i'm cussing -- i'm not a quiet talker. >> are we getting in trouble. >> i'm a pentecostal. i talk like a pentecostal. >> you speak in tongues. i was very single i watched people do it i'm like, not me. that's when the jewish side came out. >> my wife is second generation black american in france. and then her father is french french but that makes. >> french french that's an interesting thing. always the aasterisk. >> right now, that whole dialogue is getting complicated. because there are certain conservatives that want, you know, people of color to just say they're french. >> which is weird because i think in america we're used to the-everybody in jersey is
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italian american. african-american. >> the thing is france since the revolution -- when we said all men are created equal. they said [speaking foreign language] they took it verbatim up to a point. but at least on paper that meant it was illegal to discriminate. it was like rules again taking census on account of race. what it means is the inverse the inverse means there is no paper trail to expose all the racism that has happened the three hundred years. >> liberty, liberty, equality and brother hood. it's the back bone of french universalism which says you are french first and foremost. why can't you be french and still embrace cultural roots? after all, in isn't a white country or a black country. or an asian or muslim country. france is constantly evolving based on who lives here. that's what truly defines its identity. the people that call it home.
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>> this is a suburb lies on the northern edge of the periphery. historically this was a no ma man's land oud the city walls. populated by the gypsy celebrated for the jazz music and flea mechanic. it's a mecca for a diverse group of young talent. >> ooh la la. >> but today i'm here for the food. >> classy wipe. >> what's that mean. >> that's got nothing to do with it. >> i have a simple wine. >> i'll be the judge of that whether it's a simple or not. >> it's cool if we go. >>s in a rarity isolate let you decide which wines we drink. >> all right. >> i'm having lunch with two women leading voices in the food
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and wine seen here. alcidia is a. fleur owns a natural woman led food and wine distribution company in. >> we try to make it faulty. >> there is no definition for what makes a wine natural. but it's made at least from organic grapes and processed with no additives or preservatives. >> this is beautiful. >> yeah. >> this is a contentious relationship twoon the natural wine crowd and traditional wined crowd. as long as people drink wine, i'm happy. >> this is beautiful. >> this is the grilling. >> you grill it. >> yeah. i grill it. >> what's readily apparent in alcidia's cook is the unique take on african french fusion. this is a special dish from
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north africa. this is red pepper mixed with smoked fish. >> okra. i know okra. >> we say gunmano. >> you use the same word. >> it's interesting we call it okra but okra is used in the dish called gumbo, convergence of french, african, american and native american culture into one. >> this is a cream. >> this is interesting to me this is like not traditional french food in the middle of paris. >> but this kind of food is inspired with all the nationality we have here. we have more one hundred nationalities all the time it's cool when you grew up, we try to cook foods, the gumbo. >> france has a long history of colonialism across africa, asia and the caribbean.
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following world war ii and decolonization many immigrants from french colonies settled in the working class suburbs of paris and brought food traditions with them. >> grew up here. >> minutes from here. >> how is it growing up here? is it different from paris where it's a bit more of a morn culture of people. out here it's like you don't feel like you're anywhere close to like what we know as paris. >> i remember when i was younger it was like the worst place. >> what do you mean by that. >> the no-go zone. >> i grew up in one of those. the washington, d.c. is that place. it was that way a long time. >> for me it was like so cool to be here to grow up with all the ditch peep, different culture. i never got any problems. >> me neither. >> never ever. >> stereotypically it happens but it wasn't your experience. >> it was not. >> pleases are like that often. >> exactly. >> i think this is beautiful. this is a pit an sauce, very
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african. >> very african. >> you have okra, gumbo, the saute. this is incredible. this is a new thing. >> yeah this is a new thing. this is the reason why i'm cooking. you can mix all the culture. if you are curious and if you are gourmet, you can mix stuff and everything -- if -- if it is tasty it will be okay. >> i went to culinary school and obviously you don't learn to cook it culinary you learn tech niece neeks and recipe cook something something some people can do it and some people cannot. >> it's not all about technique. >> it's about pleasure and love. >> i think it's one of the most beautiful things about cooking for people you bring comfort to them, you nourish them. i love cooking for people and watching them eat it. >> what is this. >> looks like you are very 30see. fleur, it's like i have a heavy hand. the job is to empty the bottle so you buy another. you are my perfect guest. >> hmm, yes.
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>> i chose the no go zone. >> no go zone orpt it's easy to see how places like this will absolutely shape future menus in the city center. i'm headed further outward to another place called a no-go zone. only way off the beaten path towards the outer reaches of northern suburbs. let's be clear. tourists never come here. but i've been invited to watch street ball with artist and photographer marvin who started taking photos in the banlieue and they are now in the guardian and lemon. >> how long you guys doing this game? >> inspired by the famous african cup, lecan is a local annual football tournament players form teams around their or families nation of origin and
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face off one of the biggest nights of the year here. >> it's like with my neighborhood basketball games to shame. we are coming. everyone asks why are you going here but they've never been here. >> no one came here. they think it's dangerous and crazy because but actually if you come here not dangerous. >> nothing. >> nothing. >> nothing. >> i come from one of these sorts of neighborhoods. the type of neighborhoods that often make the papers. it's so important for people to remember, these places you eeo see on the news are also people's homes. >> they are french. >> this is a bit different than america i think here you have to make a choice between be french or be your origin. >> like the citizens. >> no, not officially. first of all you are french. but you feel.
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>> yeah. >> because sometimes you are not feel french. especially when you are fireman from a place like this. because here is far from center. here we have nothing like the big mouses, no galleries not too many shops. >> but you create your own culture. >> yeah, all the good culture is from the suburbs. ♪ ♪ >> this is paris. >> no but that's cool. i love that. >> i was raised in a neighborhood very similar to this. and the media only seemed to report on our struggles and hardships. the good stuff always got buried. this community much like where i grew up is filled with joy,
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♪ i'm a barak and jewish man who who grew up in a pretty impoverished part of america. the journey from where i started to where i am now has allowed me to move in and out of different places in the world, to connect with different cultures and people. and it all began when i was 17 years old. i won a cook competition at my high school and was award add scholarship for the culinary institute of america. that change my life. i loved cooking. and clackle french cuisine spoke to me above the rest. i still to love cook now even if i am a little rusty.
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>> now we take a union break. >> but if i'm putting on the chef whites this is the guy to do it for. chev christophe pell '. his sue kmev is helping me transmit. >> i have ptsd from french chefs yelling at me in french and me having no clue. >> this is technically not suburbs. we are definitely not in the suburbs. >> located in the eighth mall. le clarence. this is one of the oldest and most legendary estates in france. growing grapes for centuries. the chateau is classified first growth of which there are only five. there is the lamborghini of french wine. it's awesome. i've never had an experience like this before. sort of like playing with the parents away, which is very,
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very special. [speaking foreign language ]. >> cardamom. >> yes. [speaking foreign language]. >> vietnamese. [speaking foreign language]. >> a french classic. consequence may. but done in a style of vietnamese fuh. i've never seen it prepared like this. tell him i have a leather tongue. chef pele may be cooking in a
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traditional kitchen on the champs elysee. he comes from the banlieue and raised in a social housing project. before moving to the city center at age 25. [speaking foreign language]. >> it's interesting, it's when you have a love for great wine and great food, you know, ultimately i speak some french. but we -- you almost don't need to speak the language. you sort of get it. there is a look and a nod. [speaking foreign language]. >> and to me that's almost unique to what we do. you can travel around the world
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and you sort of can share this connection. so to be able to be here cooking with the chef, it's very special. sort of chef pele version of classical cuisine but has found his unique way to modernize his cuisine just a touch. the timeless but boldly finished. leg of squaub covered in barbecue sauce. squaub again, classic french dishes turn on their heads as exciting to eat as they were to help prepare. >> that mixes with the fattiness of the squawk and the this is a bold move. for a very long time the dishes never changed. but each dish has something incredibly untraditional or multiple things. i mean, this is not something that someone who is you know typically raised in this cuisine would do.
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[speaking foreign language]. >> people dream and really go at it to come to the city, you know what i mean. maybe that's where this force of -- of, you know -- this kind of thing comes from. >> yeah. >> because i understand i grew up in a neighborhood where no one eight oak cuisine. no wine, nothing. people working class just trying to make it. when you are not from this place you are more driven, like to prove yourself, to create an identity, you know, and i think i see that from the banlieue here is when people make it to the city it's like you give it 110% and you wake up and you're the chef of le clarence. >> chef pele's approach to cooking really resonates with me. while some may see this as non-traditional, to be honest this is authentic french
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cooking. it's the evolution of a place that keeps things interesting. if this is the future of haute cuisine, then i'm all in. more protection, more sun, more joy. neutrogena® beach defense® the suncare brand used most by dermatologists and their families, neutrogena® for people with skin. check out this vrbo. oh man. ♪ come on. ♪ ♪
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and find out what your case all when a truck hit my car,ade. ♪the insurance companyed, wasn't fair. eight million ♪ i didid't t kn whahatmy c caswa, so i called the barnes firm. i'm rich barnes. it's hard for people to k how much their accident case is worth.h barnes. t ouour juryry aorneneys hehelpou paris has always been a hat bed of creativitity from haute cuisine, the high fashion to french cinema, music and dance. but in many ways it's best known
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for being the birthplace of some of the art movements of all time. i didn't grow up with art in my life. but as an adult it's a part of my identity. art has become a new creative outline for me. i was introduced v introduced to the art world exploring museum here in paris. but one thing that became quickly apparent was a distinct lack of black and brown perspectives. i'm heading back to saint denis on the cutting edge of the paris art scene looking to change that. >> in france you are exposed to the art. but you are exposed to the domination of a culture by others. what you are seeing are works of them by them by people like us. >> mariane ibrahim is an art world powerhouse has a beautiful gallery in chicago and opening a brand-new one in paris. mariane has an inkreebl roster of uber talented art from africa and it's die spora including her
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friend rafael. >> this picture was taken in a plane of western people colonizing africa. >> as a black person or as a mix as a brown, thinking to make art requires a lot of audacity and a lot of confidence because what you are motivated is what you see that looks like you. >> for lunch, a home cooked meal inspired by raphael's italianen and french caribbean roots. tomato and mozzarella. and. >> control mix. and it's now translated in my paintings and my work. zboo li. >> do you think being able to be in this neighborhood and in this space allows you to do your work better? because we always talk about musicians, especially the rappers they become famous and inspired by the environment where they are raised but the moment you leave you lose the
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connection to the content. >> that's why i'm here. it's because you can see in a way what could be france in the future. >> is it the france of the future and maybe now in the future they'll accept it. >> you're right. you're right. i think so. >> i was raised in a neighborhood much like this where i was never exposed to art. i didn't even know that there were black artists until i was an adult. literally i remember the first time i saw an exhibition i remember walking around, being in utter shock. so you sort of feel cheated but at the same time very proud at the same time. >> um-hum. >> so what you experienced at that museum was transformative because you felt counted. >> what do you think it is about -- unique about the culture and the identity of the banlieue where it seems like it is like the breeding ground for great athletes, great artists? >> sometimes i feel that because of economical reason we have to be in the outskirts of paris.
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saint denis and this type of suburbs have the same -- yeah it's the same history of layers of immigration for economical reason. i mean, we have to be inventive and recreate ourselves. >> the expression of the immigrant french experience is the new art movement in paris. making space for voices that used to be marj alized and reframing the classics. as always, it's the younger generation that will continue to push the stories front and center. >> where i grew up it sort of breathes like a grit that you don't necessarily have when you are raised in a fairly comfortable situation where you are always accepted. i think the banlieue here creates that same dynamic, you i see the same grit, hustle and the resourciveness to create something to -- to thrive.
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>> i've been invited to a lunch with this family. a banlieue 30 minutes northwest of par zblis should i pop something. >> yeah. >> julian pham is one of the most influential figures in the parisian food scene. one ever the guys i knew i'd hit it off with before we even met. definitely one of the cool kids in paris. in addition to being a consultant he is the creator of french street food magazine and founder of family first appear food focused agency that pairs brands with concepts. we could have gotten the best table at any fans restaurant in paris. but instead he wanted ee to try his mom's home cooking. >> definitely a trouble maker. >> definitely a trouble maher maker. >> welcome. [speaking foreign language]. >> okay what's on the inside?
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>> black mush rm. >> quail leg. >> beautiful. >> this is -- [speaking foreign language]. ♪ >> is from the sugar kane this is a true vietnamese family style meal. >> once a month i come back here. >> in france we say bon appetite. >> i think in new york, too. >> the main idea of dish is put them in the middle and you have rice paperers, you roll them and make your own. the most important items were like the food on the table, the beers for like the uncles and
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stuff. especially vietnamese culture was to -- you see me and i look asian but everything in my daily life was telling me to be french. they want me to be french but they don't allow me to be french because thoey're always telling me i'm not french. >> how do you think your experience gave you what you needed to endure. >> the hunger was different. nothing was given to us. >> you had to hustle. >> we didn't grow up in that house with the garden. it's a nice house. but it's 40 years of work, hard work. only in my 30s i realized i
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wasn't vietnamese or french but i was both. i was maybe stronger than the other people. >> i was a mixed race kid. in america you're never quite white enough to be accepted. you're in the gray always. it gives you a perspective and i think ultimately it will be those people who live in the gray that will change everything. your happiest spring starts at lowe's.
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influence is stretched far and wide to the very reaches up of upper parisian society. even here the palace. in case you didn't know it's the french white house. president emmanuel macron lives here, and somehow i got an invitation. personally i wish i'd dressed a little nicer. but, you know, it's what it is. this isn't like a tour or anything like that. i'm here to meet with someone super special. he's a chef here at the kitchen. >> this is the first house of
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france, and we are like a display for the world. >> chef olge is a first generation immigrant. he grew up in the suburbs but now cooks for the president and his wife. i was fan boying out on your instagram. i also love very ornate classical french cuisine. about as classic you can get, like food that people don't really know how to cook anymore. today he's preparing an old school french dish that we both love. means like a thousand leaves. >> yeah, exactly. >> this has foi gra and a
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artichokes. >> reporter: and okay it's perfect. i'd say even in france there's only a few restaurants that cook this kind of food anymore. >> what i have noticed is most of the big chefs you see today they get influence -- and me i don't have the same path. i came from africa. i was 9 years old. my mom -- i was the only one. she raised me. >> where in africa is your mom from? >> my mom is from -- when you're a kid you have dreams. even if i can't reach it, i've tried. you have to dare in life. the people who brought me ear actually when he told me where would you like to go as a joke, i said elyses and the person wasn't expecting that. he wasn't expecting this name come out from my mouth, but it is what it is. >> it's pretty cool.
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then you are cooking for the president. >> it's a good story. >> it's probably even cooler to live it. chef olge and i come from totally different backgrounds, but like so many people i've met on this trip we are who we are because of where we're from not in spite of it. there's magic in coming from the other side of the tracks. some of the most creative people are from the fringes, the no-go zones, the outside. and this creativity didn't just happen. this is a metaphor for the new paris. >> kind of. >> it's a direct result coming head to head with paris proper. it's the electric space where cultures collide and create something brand new. my experience in paris has confirmed what i've always felt
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about the world. culture is not static. national identity is not static. it's ever evolving as is the heart of this wonderful city. come with your eyes wide open and revisit these places enthusiastically because change is exciting. i can't wait to see what paris becomes next. tucci: i have driven in italy quite a bit. but i did say to one guy when i was doing a movie, i said, "it's very interesting, people don't really stop at stop lights that much." and he goes, "no, no, no. the stop light is just a suggestion." there's nowhere on earth quite like tuscany. the land is idyllic, the art is divine and the food is out of
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