about. >> beautiful. stretched out believe is valet dosta, and piedmont beyond, a region without which i wouldn't be searching for italy at all. this is my first time in south korea. you never feel farther from home than landing in a country in the middle of the day. you lose track of what times the and what time it's supposed to be. your body is freaking out. we're actually a day ahead. but does it matter? it forces you to be in the

present. >> driving through seoul, the smells of food cooking, signs in korean, the high rises, tiny shops, all of it super fast and forward. >> the first thing you want to do is get something to eat. i just landed, i'm starving. i'm karlton mccoy, raised in d.c. educated in kitchens around the globe. these days i'm a master -- i'm a nomad, driven to move in and out of different cultures, embra issing what makes us both unique and the same. we carry out travels with us to our next destination. that's what life is all about. let's do this. south korea, like most people, i'm starting out in seoul, an international megacity, located until the center of the korean peninsula, the beating heart that drives the korean economy,

and turns out record breaking pop culture exports, like squid game, parasite and bts, the biggest band on earth. this place is fast paced, interconnected and runs around the clock. what about the rest of the country? is korea super traditional, modern or both? so after today i'm headed further into the countryside. i want to learn about the people, the drinking culture, and most importantly, the food. >> the food is probably the one part of the culture that i'm the most well versed in. been fortunate enough to have enough creative finds. taken me to the hole in the wall spaces i've never been to. i have no crew where i'm going right now. on the surface, he's a deaddy bear, but after a couple bottles of soju, the tiger comes out. >> we go way back, we met at culinary school, and have been friends ever since. wufs first koreans to ever

become a master -- i'm meeting at a market to get food and some sewell. >> i'm so excited to see you. >> me too. yeah, welcome to my home. >> what's the name of this market? >> it's one of the oldest markets in korea, started with different types of clothing, textile, a lot of wholesalers started the market, and naturally grew out to be a lot of food stalls. >> this is incredible. i think we're going to eat good. what's that home wrecker over there? >> oh, that's sunday, i'm getting it. it's blood sausage. >> i love blood sausage. >> can we get the some booze? >> that's right. >> okay. >> how old are you? >> howald am i? 37 #. is that how you decide how much to eat and drink? >> in korea, if first conversation start with how old

are you? >> what. >> because korea has a very straight soernl hierarchy. you have to respect the elders. >> how old are you? >> 38. >> i can't disrespect you, is that what you're saying. >> i'll give you a welcome drink. this is the soju. you have to shake it. what was that move? and put that in there. this is a korean appertit. we call this sue mac. >> cheers, buddy. >> cheers. taking one shot. >> it's like the cellular phone this is very typical. chicken tips and pork skin in a spicy sauce. >> this is a staple street food that everyone loves. rice cake with the red pepper paste. everybody in the u.s. is using

it. >> even -- let's try the blood sausage. that's good. it's actually very different than normal blood sausage. it has the similar texture of the rice -- balanced and delicate. >> well, everyone knows what this means. >> that's right. >> i'll pour you some. i'll do two hands to show respect to my helder. >> that's why you drink it with beer. >> this reminds me of home. everyone's talking over each other, drinking, having a good time. >> that's what i loved about korea. >> it's a feeling that you're attached to another person, and naturally brings out the personality. >> like obuntu. i had it tattooed on my arm. >> tattoo chong.

>> it's hard to explain. more of a feeling, an attachment or a bond between people or sometimes between a person and a place. >> you ladies want a shot? she's like, i'm on the clock. >> i think i get it, though, even though i haven't seen chung moon in years, we always have a blast when we do. that type of connection must be chung. >> ready for it. >> i know you are. >> roller coaster. >> i'm a little terrified zblt sunsets, the city comes alive, and moon and i head out on the town. seoul is known for amazing street food, but tonight world class fine dining. mitch lynn starred ogm, one of moon's favorites, a place where traditio traditional cuisine is given a modern makeover.

>> joining us is korean american strategist -- while my buddy knows -- he's not what i would call an influencer. i need her to understand -- >> how long have you guys known each other. >> i was 19. >> he's way more formal in korea than in the u.s. >> his koreanness comes out. >> cheers, guys. >> cheers. >> it was great. >> nice to meet you guys. >> so your work is especially like building brands, knowing what the cool kids are into. i guess, tie brands to consumers in the most natural way possible. >> but to do that you have to understand the culture well. >> you have to be a part of it to be a consumer. >> from what i understand, cream

culture is a bit of a paradox, one super traditional, but also super modern. i'm seeing that play out in the field here, for dinner we are having brace your ribs, and a famous korean korean rice dish -- they're elevated and refined to their purest form. korea is evolving, but mow? where is it going next? >>eeia was a poor undeveloped country, so basically built up the economy so what it is today, and there's this thing called the korean wave, call you wave, i think that's what's helped the country to be a lot more relevant in global popular culture is that very digital savvy, very reactive to what's going on. so as soon as a trend mops off, koreans will take it in, resbept

it in their own way. it essentially becomes korean. >> korea is an additional culture or modern? or live? >> they're putting a lot of emphasis in how do you say -- >> individuality. >> individuality. but like korea is cobb substantiately changing. being much more proud of korean culture, whether it's traditional or modern, beauty, food. >> and also like a korean -- becoming more trendy and fun. >> it's cool to be korean right now. >> and seoul is the amex of coolness. look around, it's electric, but things haven't always been this way. how did south korea go from one of the least developed countries in the planet to an economic and pop culture superpower. >> we sort of came to south korea hot, you can tell this is

a city filled with people who have infinite energy. these people go. you plop in the middle and you either keep up or you don't. but it's definitely not the identity of an entire country. >> tomorrow, we're leaving soil. it was great to spend a day here but i'm even more excited to travel the best parts of korea. (elevator ding) ♪ (energetic music) ♪ ♪ ♪ (camera shutters) be ready for any arena in the all-new lx 600. ♪ ♪ exploring the heart of historic europe with viking, you'll get closer to iconic landmarks, to local life and legendary treasures as you sail onboard our patented, award-winning viking longships. you'll enjoy many extras, including wi-fi, cultural enrichment from ship to shore

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morning, or at least i think it's morning. on the other side of the world it can be hard to tell sometimes. i've been awake for hours, ready to hit the road, and see what this man has lined up for us, as we leave seoul behind. our first step, one jushi for an excl ex-clues -- it's a clear liquor made from rice and one of the best selling spirits in the world. it's not easy to find outside of korea, but some people are looking to change that,

including this guy. >> i got this made before i started to launch my own brand. >> k-pop, the first celebrity to launch his own brand with the guidance of -- kim. >> why is that important to you? >> when i got signed to roc nation, social security first asian artist, i wanted to bring something that was kind of unique to korea. i didn't want to come out and try to be something i'm not. bring something to the culture that was different. >> so i came up with a song called soju. >> i heard it, it's great. >> thank you, i appreciate it. and then also it felt natural for me to do soju instead of a whiskey or vodka. >> they want you to be an --

>> it's like everybody in the world can relate. >> that's correct. >> you know, here we are, it's, you know, korea success one of the most popular countries now when 20 years ago nobody even knew what it was. >> i agree. before moon started developing his company to import very high quality sojourn u.s. i didn't know there was these socials. >> the drinking culture is crazy. everything's open for 24 hours. it's basically like you could drink all hours of the day. >> no brown bag necessary. >> that's a luxury. >> it's a luxury and a curse at the same time. yeah, cheers. >> i'm going to follow his lead. and always -- we turned our back a little bit. when you drink you turn your back, you don't want to face. >> it shows a sign of repeated. very complicated social cues.

>> so much better than all that was you were feeding me yesterday. start somewhere. >> talk to you about being a young creative american, an experience with american culture and translit aing it for korean lent. >> back then no one knew what korea was. they're like, where's that? is that china? >> being asian smarty. >> definitely not supposed to rap. >> i come over to korea, and they kind of look down on me for really not knowing korean culture and not being able to speak korea. and then now with how everything is so sensitive, why do you try to be black? >> yeah, yeah. >> you know, i'm not trying to be hale anything, i owe everything to hip-hop. so everything i do, all these success, people even caring what i say is all because of hip-hop. >> it's an entire culture. >> yeah, exactly.

>> you can't separate hip-hop as a music genre. >> the attitude i have towards it, i twauls try to do it justice so that i don't embarrass the culture or the people that represent the culture as well. >> yeah. >> i never felt like i fit in as a kid. but the more i travel it's easy to see the world is increasingly mixed too, korean america, soju and hip-hop. a big part of my job is pairing. so this makes perfect sent to me. sometimes the most unexpected combos are the ones that stick with you. from jay, we head deeper into the heart of the country to a city called ondon. towards a guest house. where we will be staying for the night. this is the historic home of the lee family.

18 generation landowners who can trace their family lineage back over 600 years. visitors who stay here are treated to the homemade liquors and meals prepared by the family matriarch. it's like going back in time. volume gets turned down. things start moving very slow, and then amazingly, against all odds, i slow down too. >> i mean, two hours ago we were in the middle of the city and now we are here right in the middle of nature. >> the older i get, the less time i want to spend in cities. >> same here. >> i see taes and quiet. >> perfect place to recharge. >> this is incredible. >> tonight we're sharing a spread of simple and el ganlt on you.

we're eating a korean beef tartar, dressed with soy says and scallion. >> so much flavor. >> beef is super tender. a glaze of -- >> spicy style. >> poached ox pus, candy kumquat. and tried candied persimmon. the players are stoorp strong and korean -- >> my name is karlton. >> nice to meet you. call me bk. >> bk. >> bk lee is the oldest son of the lee family, in line to inherit the family estate. >> wow. >> this is cung-ju, but they had a seasonal special flower. >> have a drink with us.

>> can't dance with me. >> does that feel like cleaner. >> lighter texture, and then it's sweet. the subtle floral notes carrying through. >> thanks for having us tonight. >> his family owns this place. >> that's right, for 600 years. it's crazy. >> do you feel that the younger generation in korea values places like this? >> i didn't expect that answer. i think if there was one positive about how fast the world moves today all the technology, social media, it's actually drawn people back in to places like this. young people are leading the pack, where they're starting to say we don't want this. it's really powerful. #

. >> cheers, thank you. >> sitting here in this beautiful valley, three hours, and yet a million miles away from seoul, i feel like bk could be right, at the cycle of fast and slow feeds itself over years and years. you cannot have a city like seoul without places like this. where time stands still generation after generation. i understand the power of tide. the wine business is all about time, aging, permittation, the patient is takes to get something truly great out of a

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in our south of -- deep in the mountains, according to

village elders this place is so remote that inhabitants weren't aware of the korean war while it was happening. in here is an artisanal farm. the mother sauces of korea. the earthen crocks are spread all throughout the property. >> openly exposed to the nature and climate so it's very important to get those clean rings and sunshine. >> so the weather of this valley impacts the result with like the wind, the rain, the sun and everything? >> that's right, that's right, it's like tehrua, like the wine. >> we yuds grapes, and you use soybeans. >> soy boes, right. >> am i allowed to taste these?

>> yeah. >> three primary sauces made with soybeans. something similar to japanese miso, a red spicy paes, and then finally -- darker, less salty and a little sweet. the genius lies in the time it takes to permit them. for the most special would bes it will be the year 2006 treft. >> that looks pretty gnarly. aisle going to be honest with you. that's got a lot of personality, you know what i'm saying. i'm used to having the process, you know, in the jar. that was a big piece. i'm going in deep.

>> in your mouth. >> initially very salty. but when the salt dissipates you get the citrus fruit, savory as well, meaty with mushrooms. it's beautiful. are you happy with it? >> yeah, i'm happy with that. >> you loved it, huh? >> yeah. >> thank you. >> the amount of care and time that goes into making these is mind blowing. they're an art form in and of themselves. hooni is a fanatic in the best possible way, about korea in general. his excitement comes through in everything he does. he's making us green onion pancakes in michael's enormous kitchen. moon asks hooni to join us for

the next part of the trip. >> carlton, nice to meet you, welcome, have a seat. >> thank you. >> getting lunch ready, using some of the chanes, and today we're going to make something with -- it's a scallion pancake. >> that looks incredible. >> instead of adding salt or any kind of seasoning we added cuchira. >> i've had a version of this in korean barbecue in new york. >> korean appetizer. >> yeah, by itself. >> sweet, salty and a funk finish, but that's what makes it delicious. >> perfectly paired with makoi. >> is that what this is? >> yeah. >> makoli unfiltered rice wine with a sweet and sour taste, and just a little ever ves sense. i never tried it before, and

it's awesome. >> years. >> years. >> where did you learn how to do that? >> i'm learning a little bit at a time. it's her first day. >> this is delicious. >> you always make this sound. you've got to say -- >> it's refreshing? >> it sounds like you're really in pain, and it's refreshing. >> beautiful. # what's this? >> smells amazing. this really transforms this simple can cake into -- your guests, i'd imagine you have to educate them on the significant of this job versus the stuff they can get on a shelf. >> when somebody orders a -- at my restaurant, the whole restaurant will know and that sparks a very good conversation,

what is that. >> that's a big part of our job when i was -- just educating people, and to me i'm really intrigued by looking at handmade cupture and drug culture, an enormous amount of parallels. you can't industrialize at a mass scale. same thing here, it's hard to mass produce -- >> you can't mass produce time, and that's what it needs. starting in seoul where everything is fast, fast. everything slows down after you leave the city. every conversation we've had about is how long these processes take, how slow everything goes. how do you deal with that juxtaposition between the more modern, never fast enough culture in seoul and taking the time to do things in the countryside, as much as it should be taken. >> taking time is very important for the artesinal -- we make that, and then ancestors from

2,000 years ago. >> the 2,000 year history could have been all was lost just like a sower. but you're continuing the history that can be handed down to the next generation, and really appreciate it. >> cheers, good things take time your happiest spring starts at lowe's. nothing like a weekend in the woods. it's a good choice all around, like screening for colon cancer... when caught in early stages it's more treatable. i'm cologuard. i'm noninvasive... and i detect altered dna in your stool to find 92% of colon cancers... even in early stages. early stages. yep. it's for people 45 plus at average risk for colon cancer, not high risk. false positive and negative results may occur. ask your provider if cologuard is right for you. we're in.

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♪ ♪ ♪i'm so defensive,♪ ♪i got bongos thumping in my chest♪ ♪and something tells me they don't beat me♪ ♪ ♪ ♪he'd better not take the ring from me.♪

♪ as the sun begins to set, hooni and i head down to the mountain, to the largest port city in the region. this is moon's final spot and he hands me off to hooni for the rest of the trip. even though we've made a bunch of memories together, i'm also considering something more permanent. jufr had a tattoo? want to get one? >> no, my wife won't rhett me. >> new friends and old, sharing stories, laughing, having a good time, as if we've all been connected somehow, all along. the city comes up on you in a flash. one moment, all mountains, and the next, you're back in civilization. at the heart of the city, the fish market, largest in all of korea. hooni, moon, michael and i head

out for a night of food and libations at the fish market. at night, the market is the place to be for great beer, food and soju. who knew. it looks like hooni is a celebrity here. >> you've got a fan club. >> yeah. >> you can get anything at this market. from pacific herring to crazy looking snails, gigantic squid and octk to puce. but you have to get snow crab, or big ass crab. >> they fought. >> this guy lost. >> lost the battle. >> you're going to have the loser. >> oh, no. >> oh, i got you. oh, wait. this guy got pissed. >> oh, my god, don't call me a loser. he's a fighter. >> fight.

>> oh, yeah. coming from d.c., i'm somewhat of a crab connoisseur. my standards and expectations are super high. >> oh. now we're talking. all you guys may -- elders first. two hands, yes, right on, you're learning. >> i'm a quick learn. took three days, but yeah, quick learner. >> it's tough when you're drunk the whole time. >> oh, look at that. >> wow. >> oh, i eat crab with my teeth. i love crab so much. anywhere in the world i can eat crab. you feel like home. i love it, it's not as intense as king crab. the texture is more delicate, really fine. it's the texture of what a

feather tastes like, perfectly cooked like cod. moon has no problem finishing his beer. >> belly full. a little buzzed. feeling the love. the one bit of important business to attend to. a nod to my time in korea, but also a nod to this guy here, and our time together. i think the concept of chung and that special bond -- that spirit is little tattoos. mainly in places i felt are a special commission. instead of buying some stupid trinket, you have a tattoo that like it allows you to sell a story everywhere you travel in the world. there's a sort of -- to really relate to. young is one i heard about, and i thought it was a really brilliant approach to life, this

concept and this flosty that's very difficult to explain. >> today is your last day. >> it's the last day. we met, first time 17 years ago, and, i mean, if that's where we started, that tone, that feeling, that connection, and it can be continued on. >> come back here when we're old men and by the end you'll get a tattoo. i'll get you guys both a tattoo. i'll pay. he goes, never going to happen. >> that's chung, the beautiful thing, you can't explain. >> like most things you can't explain. sometimes you need to look around and feel it to understand. hey you two, go outside and play. ♪ ♪ create a season full of playfulness.

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jaju island, a short flight from the port city, it's a tropical paradise, subject to some pretty unpredictable weather. hooni has a deep connection to this island, and in particular this place, ojina, a farm to table restaurant in the home of the huanga family, who he credits with inspiring his cooking and how he approaches every aspect of his life. i've been invited to meet the head of the family for a pre-dinner drink. not my typical -- >> karlton mccoy, the patriarch of this family, and mr. huang.

so welcome. >> thank you. >> >> the tea he is preparing today is a combination of herbs, roots, mushrooms and minerals. many of which are decades old. >> it's one of these places when you walk in, you're not the boss, right? >> you're right, i'm not here to add any of my pernltd here, no, i'm just here to receive, and absorb. you feel it, that this place is special. >> it puts you in that place immediately here. >> i'm more of a coffee and two aspirin type guy but after this trip i'm open to anything. to bring it on. let the healing begin. this is food as medicine. a holistic approach to well-being, one that mr. huang

and he adopted. after he almost lost sight in his eyes. they share the world with this place. i'd like to introduce you to the chef. she's in charge of all the food today. >> so you operate the kitchen here at this restaurant. . . >> so a real chef, yeah, yeah. >> the spread is incredible. there are dozens of small side dishes that are standard with any korean meal. there's also home brewed cranberry wine. pickled vegetables from the garden. >> is the goal to have all four seasons represented in every meal. >> that's mr. huang's philosophy. >> see cucumber sal id with chive flowers. >> they call it a chop chay.

they strip it was it looks like -- i could do work here. >> it's like candied -- >> it's grown here. >> a homemade tofu that's mr. huang oo's favorite. it's prepared by mrs. huang, for good reason. >> how is your husband's flossy, how has that impacted the way you cook?

>> but i think through that they've deepen that. >> that must have been really special for you because in difficult times like this sometimes it breaks marriages. you have to answer well. clearly seeing who the boss is here. >> we're a team. so he gave three -- in search of -- has sergei known it. we're all going to sit around quoting young. it don't matter. hahn cause. solely because --

>> she saved his life. >> beautiful. >> i'm very impressed. that he's actually in one piece. how do you grill a fish this size? >> a very long grill. like, you idiot, it's like eel and bass together. >> and also the incredible stew made with pork aged over a decade. a lot of flavor, right? >> a lot of flavor. the broth is really powerful. >> i think normal grocery store pig would completely be overwhelmed by this. this kung gi still has so much texture. >> you've worked at restaurants before. i own restaurants. for us we've been taught that

nutrition is not something we really think about as restaurant owners and chefs. >> not even for a second. >> she doesn't think that way when she's cooking at all whether it be for family or guests. it's about making sure you're guests at our house and you're going to leave healthier when you leave than when you came in. >> there was nothing you could have told me that could have properly put this place into perspective. it's the people, the place, it's everything. it all culminates into what makes this place incredibly unique. this is a very unfortunate thing to have created out this. out of that came a really beautiful philosophy most all civilizations seem to take from that point. >> after spending the evening, i get why he's in love with this place. it's truly special. i'm not giving up on aspirin or anything, but it's important to remember who can often be the very best medicine. i'm basking in the glow of this place feeling very relaxed, well fed and maybe a little

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♪ so different and so new ♪ ♪ was like any other... ♪ on the next "nomad." >> i'm back to explore through a new lens. i quickly found some of the most inspiring chefs hiding right here in the nation's capital. this is like a very d.c. thing. smell. nothing like it in the world. d.c. is becoming a city focused

we are blessed with great weather for my last day. ancient forests, sprawling coastal highways, that rich black volcanic soil and mount hollison in the middle, the largest peak in all of korea, but the island's greatest treasure is maybe these women. legendary free divers known as seawomen. they don't use scuba gear or modern equipment and have been harvesting shellfish off the coast since at least the 17th century. most of them are 50 and older. we're meeting with a newcomer. yihan left her old life in seoul behind hoping to learn this ancient profession. she's sharing her morning catch with us and we plan to use it

to make the perfect fisherman's lunch. >> i'm going to make some ramen with the turban shells you caught. >> we're going to sit over here and drink. >> the soup base and noodles are in, the shrimp and shells. all it needs is an egg and some green hot peppers. >> that is awesome. >> oh, thank you. >> you're welcome. i did my countrymen proud because the noodles are pretty -- >> these are the fanciest noodles i've ever had. i grew up eating ramen almost every day. >> yeah? >> we doctor it up, not this fancy. we put an egg in it, sausage. is this something you knew about in seoul or pretty

particular just to here? [ speaking foreign language ] >> i think that takes a lot of bravery. i think a lot of people are stuck in situations in life, may people like maybe it's too hard to change or like maybe they're too old to change. i think most people would love to do that. they're too afraid. it's a really bold move. [ speaking foreign language ]

>> gratitude, being thankful, appreciating what you have, sitting here on this beautiful island jeju i feel it through and through. how i got here, the crazy gear shifts between city and country, the whirlwind of jetlag and travel, floating through time and space, most people who come here stop at seoul, but to understand korea, you have to look beyond just one city. i was lucky to have the two very best guides one could ask for on this trip, close friends old and new, memories shared and made, all of us connected. i feel changed by these people

and this country. both have reminded me to find time to slow down, take it all in, but i have a hell of a lot still to learn. in that time in all of its manifestations, fast and slow, past and present, is truly the most precious ingredient. this is cnn breaking news. >> hello and a very warm welcome to our viewers in the united states and all around the world live in ukraine with the latest on the war here as this country continues to defend itself against an unprovoked invasion, its neighbor, an attacker rusher celebrates victory day. following other top stories, polls are open. now it's up to voters in the philippines to choose their next president. we will take you to manila for