>> ♪ ♪ you know what i like, i like/1. i like the food here. i would also like torturing my friend. i don't know why, but

maybe because he is so nice. are you high, man? you look tired. >> i am. >> he could tear his toenails out and find something polite to say about you. if you look closely and i do, his discomfort can be exquisite. >> look at it. >> ♪ ♪

>> it is the spicy heartland of all of the things i love about china. the collision video between very old and very new, the exploding middle-class a lot of history and food that can burn you down to a charred smoking stump. szechuan province located in the southwest of china, over 1000 miles from beijing. a region so fertile and lush that it's been referred to as chinese breadbasket. and it's capital, chengdu,

despite its ever-growing skyline, it hasn't lost its deep culinary roots and traditions. and i figured, if i'm going back to szechuan, i should bring a friend, somebody unused to the level of heat uncommonly found in the food here. someone who has never been to china before and is unused to its ways. -- i am talking of course about sheth eric repair. new york's. -- so, welcome to china, eric. the first time in the mainland? >> i am very surprised already but what i have seen in the city here. it is looking like a gigantic chinatown. >> that is a racist chip right there, i am telling you. >> it almost looks like around the city. >> the air quality, maybe you noticed that hayes? that is not dirt.

>> i am definitely out of my comfort zone. >> really? >> for sure. >> i am hungry, are you hungry? >> yeah. >> noodles, that is what we should start on right here, chengdu is famous for this. named after a much beloved chengdu noodle. yes, now we are talking. >> i have never been good with chopsticks. >> never. this is not bad. >> oh, yeah. that is awesome. >> it is all spicy. >> yeah, well, this is just day one, man. >> i am surprised you don't drink beer with that. >> it is only 11:20 in the morning, what kind of animal do you think i am? >> this is a good sort of track.

>> we are going to have fun and we are going to eat well and we are going to drink a little bit more than you like. i'm going to have to tell this to you now. you cannot refuse. >> don't look at me with your eyes like that. >> i am saying that drinking culture is very important here, and we go to a formal meal, your ability to drink leads to a number of assumptions about you. manliness, size, your worth as a human being. >> i am comfortable with my size. [ laughter ] >> you give yourself as an ambassador. not only for eric but for france, eric. >> i am am ambassador. >> you want people thinking that we send out there to represent. >> you are scaring the ship out of me now. >> you care about the team now?

>> it is something to be -- on the table. >> not here, it is perfectly okay to be -- at the table. that is perfectly acceptable. it's going to be a wild week. >> yes, i have a sense of that. >> here is something they talk about a lot within szechuan when discussing food, two elements of labor personified by two ingredients, they are integral to so much of the cooking around here. this szechuan peppercorn known for its flowery aromatic flavor, tingly mind arranging and mouth numbing effects, a phenomenon. and the spicy chili peppers like our ching chow, or the heaven chilly, providing the pure heat, so you imagine, she will be tormenting you with clamps, provided by the pleasantly deranged peppercorns would be like the naughty nurse with ice cubes. >> ♪ ♪ ♪

>> what is your feeling on msg? >> i don't mind msg. >> i think it's good stuff. >> i don't react to it. >> nobody does, it is a lie. in breastmilk, in parmesan. >> it's in a lot of products. >> you know what causes chinese restaurant syndrome? racism. oh, i have a headache, it must have been the chinese died. >> ♪ ♪ >> most of the tradition of majorly famous dishes of cuisine, it all comes out from the family. so family dishes is the key of szechuan cuisine. >> and my quest to set eric's hair on fire i have arranged dinner with this man, who runs the szechuan cuisine museum, he takes me to a neighborhood

favorite for some typical local dishes. cartilaginous little bits of novel goodness. >> just bided, and don't eat the bone, though. >> it is good. >> is delicious. >> it is spicy. very spicy. >> have some beer. >> the food is really good. the spices i have to say -- >> oh yeah, now we are talking. >> find the picking in the pilot chilly. >> it literally means spicy chicken but the dish in practical terms is a game of finding the bits of chicken in the mountain of burning goodness. come on, it is fun for the whole family. is that a nuclear cluster of chili seeds? the szechuan peppers are for me, they are really super. >> yes, i can feel them now. >> yes, that's right.

there is a scientific name for the process that happens. that is the biological agent that causes confusion in your nervous system. the tingling conversion. >> that's what i feel right now. >> you are going to love this dish. >> [ laughter ] all. that when i have the feeling is the key. >> look at that one, that is some goodness right there. for me, the apex of szechuan food , my absolute favorite and probably enough, is a tofu dish. this tofu dish, the legendary, pok marked granny tofu, ground pork or beef, a deep nuanced fiery but intensely satisfying sauce of chili oil, bean paste, garlic shoots, round szechuan peppercorns, this dish done

right has got it all. oh, that is so good. a perfect balance of stuff going on in here. i just love this dish. >> i will tell you, the spiciness makes me already feel like i am drunk, kind of. >> really? >> yeah. >> are you high, man? you look high. >> i am. >> [ laughter ] >> but i like it. >> if you ever have a hangover, this will scare the evil right out. >> it is prepping me for a drinking night. >> the glory of france. >> [ laughter ] shut up! >> it's on the shoulders. green peppercorn fish, served in a simmering that of seasoned fish broth, laced heavily with fresh szechuan peppercorns and finish off with a heavy poor of heavy hot vegetable oil.

i think that's the most numb that you will feel. >> it will be a challenge for me. >> any second, that perfect hair will burst into flames. >> that's good. >> i love the food here. how did that feel? >> [ laughter ] it changes you physically, like i feel like my face is changing. like, my eyes are in a different position. >> you better look at yourself in the mirror, man. >> slow down, don't rush. >> slow down, those peppercorns are awesome. >> holy cow, well. >> [ laughter ] >> is this guy going to survive or what? >> ♪ ♪

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thank you. do i have to wear one of those best? oh, geez. they are sick like a stone in this thing. my friend eric is a buddhist. not a weekend buddhist either, a serious long-term practitioner of tibetan buddhism , which is what makes them so different from me, he, for instance is nice and i am not always so nice. maybe there will be a gift shop this way? >> [ laughter ] >> oh, check it out, man. >> i know! >> about two hours south of chengdu. on the rivers, that is the giant buddha, carved out of the cliff wall back in seven 13.

it still stands as the largest stone buddha in the world. whoa, that is pretty awesome. look at me without my selfie stick. though, eric's buddhism bird it's somewhat from the kind practiced here, the site is respected and revered by all buddhist. i am respectful of faiths not my own but i am more than happy to let my friend do what he does and it means a lot to him. but like i said i respect that. really. >> ♪ >> really cool, isn't it? >> all right, there is a tasty route ahead. yeah, man, that's what you have been waiting for. -- all this time, a little evil

part of my brain i have been secretly looking forward to this moment, the tasty szechuan snack famous and loved around these parts, i'm talking about bunny heads. tasty bunny heads. you are doing a little bit like a prostate exam. look at the teeth. >> oh, -- >> you yank the job right out. that is good, delicious. seriously, spicy, delicious, still flesh cleaning bumper school, look at those little teeth, after you rip off the jaw and split the score, the brain. >> oh, look at that meat. >> you have to suck that brain out. >> i'm not a fan of brain but i will try it. >> these are rabid brains, they are like -- here comes peter cottontail, hopping down the bunny trail, right into my

mouth. you have to get the sauce, and cracked that come in and tear it apart. >> yeah [ laughter ] >> oh, or you can pounded on the curb. you really have to break its own job on. there's a certain country justice to that, i wish i had known about these things. i'm going to make these next easter. i mean a whole easter egg hunt, what does that have to do with bunnies? you know what i'm saying? bunnies don't lay eggs but they do have heads. >> ♪ ♪ >> look deep, deep into the murky depth of that most glorious and iconic of szechuan dishes. it burns, it burns you down to your soul. >> cheers. >> cheers. >> local friend and musician

friend, all enjoy a good hot pot. almost everybody around here does. eric, however seems apprehensive. so this is eric's first time for a szechuan hot pot. i think you will enjoy this. so this is particularly good, right? >> this is known for being spicy. >> not good news. >> i can feel it in my eyes already. yeah. >> the way that it works is that you order a whole bunch of ingredients, meat, noodles, fish whatever you like a whole lot of different ingredients and you feed them into the pot. >> what should we throw in first? >> that will take a long time. let's throw that tripe in. so it's all going in there, man. >> the inner ring is a more neutral broth, the outer ring is the good stuff, the hard stuff. oh, that is good, man. that is good. >> that was your first bite of

hot pot. >> awesome, right? >> yes. >> it only gets better, my friend. >> oh this is nice. >> oh, this is tofu? with the skin on top? >> common ingredients, various are stirred in, that are less familiar to the western pallette. look at the duck. grab the intestines, yank them out and out of the live duct. >> supposedly, that is the most brash. >> but that is a bit cruel, right? >> well, you want them fresh, eric. >> i think so. cheers. >> how are you doing there, eric?

>> doing amazingly, my sinuses are open. you have no idea. >> the best part of hot pot is to share. you shared. >> i like that, too. very communal. >> sometimes you would have a hot pot for over four hours. >> as it cooks down and it gets stronger, the heat more intense, a delicious but unpredictable spies gathering at the bottom of this river of hot lava. wow! if you get deep like down to the center down there of the riverbed. it is spicy. do you feel enlightened yet? look at how the colors change. in the broth. >> is it what you expected? >> yes, it is exactly what i expected of it. [ laughter ] >> more beers, guys?

>> yes, definitely. >> i cannot think anymore, so i have to eat or drink. >> but everything is fine again, for me, i'm not so sure about eric. you are out of it, man. it is all good though. all good. >> okay. >> don't say okay, the evening is just beginning. >> appetizer, appetizer. >> look at it. >> ♪ ♪ >> all right, eric, getting into the spirit of things. >> i think you took me on this trip just to make me suffer. to kill me? that's what one friend does to another friend. >> the drinking culture of china, you enjoy culture with your friends. >> [ laughter ]

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♪ ♪ >> morning in chengdu, my

restless pilgrim friend is up early always a seeker, checking out the sites, nibbling at the edges of celebrity, due to the fact that most of these people think that is richard dear. me, i don't need the glitter or the recognition. give me some noodles. you know that's good, come on. i don't even need to taste that, just look at it. get in my mouth. oh. >> excuse me, can you help my family? >> nothing generic. >> you think i need to be brought down, i'm going to pay. sorry, tony. thank you. >> i think it was up last night, doing karaoke.

>> good, thank you. >> it could be the arriving porcelain bus as they say. >> this is very sweet and sticky but i like it a lot. i don't even know what i'm eating, but why not. a spicy, thank you. >> this soup is awesome. still no word from eric.

>> ♪ ♪ >> the chinese invented a success with food. they invented being obsessed with the providence and ingredients, going to a particular place for a particular dish. so they have had that tradition for at least 800 years. >> she's had an extraordinary relationship with china and szechuan in particular since she arrived as a student in 1994. she was the first foreigner to study at the szechuan higher institute of cuisine and has written numerous books about her experiences and about the food which are rightly groundbreaking and definitively to say she was ahead of her time is an understatement.

she has brought us to chef. >> what he's trying to do, is raise the level of szechuan food , to a sort of very refined banquet cookery. >> is what he is doing unusual for chengdu, for china? >> very unusual. in the west we have raised the idea of a celebrity chef but in china, people traditionally look down on chefs. this is a new figure of chefs who really like the creative vision behind the food. and working in the kitchen. >> the meal begins, a large array of cold dishes are laid out. delicate flavors scented with rose petals are alongside more assertive taste like lightly braised chili oil, tree mushrooms lightly blanched and

stirfried. so we start with those. >> yes, start with those because they are nice and warm. >> it is a nice texture. >> yes, those mushrooms are amazing. >> yes i love those. >> also prawns serve cold with handmade noodles rested with natural vegetable extracts. >> you have been enjoying all kinds of amazing szechuan flavors. it's about complex layered flavors, and there is one of them called a strange flavor. >> strange flavor? >> it is a mixture of sweet, sour, sweet and not the altogether, this is strangely, so it is really like a traditional szechuan dish but in a really refined way. >> and then some soup, a rich slow slim simmered pork broth.

a small bundle of impossibly thin hand cut noodles, made with duck egg yolks, a western szechuan specialty. >> okay, so he's saying, first have a smell of this. and then taste the broth. >> of that is beautiful. >> and just brought gently press the noodles and then lift them up and eat them. >> oh, they are fine. >> these dishes, the character is very similar to what you get on the street but it is done beautifully. >> we were talking the other day that some of the other dishes that we were eating started out not invented by chefs or hooks, invented by farmers or hungry people. that is certainly the story of much of french cooking.

i mean correct me if i'm wrong. >> when you keep the refinement and the soul of the food in the process. you get amazing food. >> wow, beautiful. >> this is an amazing this. i especially requested this fish, one of his specialties. so, it is see cucumber, off of the northeastern coast. that is a very expensive rare find and ingredient. but it is done with a typical szechuan sour and hot dressing. like on the street, you would get these seasonings with slippery sweet potato noodles. this is a banquet version. yeah. >> this is going to be a challenge for me.

>> i would hold your bowl a little closer like this. >> oh, thank you. >> oh, i was having so much fun. so, that resistance, that rubber arenas, actually, the elasticity, it is the last frontier for western pallets. >> the gelatinous? >> whether his actual crunch. >> this dish or delicacy makes note sense of western culinary at all. in the west there is no concept for eating something for the pleasure of texture. >> oh, this is really good. >> it seems you sort of single- handedly are making a beautiful argument that people should go against the natural instincts in the west and open up to, what is really an entirely new spectrum of initially difficult

and extremely nuanced flavors. >> i think chinese is the world's most underrated cuisine. because everyone loves chinese food. but until recently, people in the western thought of chinese food of being something familiar and good to eat. but cheap and a bit junkie. and i think that now, people can see, that it has so much more to offer. it has got everything from the most elevated tank with food, in cooking, hardy peasant food, street food, buddhist vegetarian cooking, muslim cooking. so it's really what you can call a gastronomic culture.

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in the world of the professional kitchen, the job of the executive chef is much like an air traffic controller. one misheard order or one garbled communication can lead to disaster. it is with this in mind that i arranged for eric to receive the attentions of a specialist in maintaining a perfect hearing and related health. >> the guy is a doctor? in the industry?

>> he is kind of like a doctor. more of a technician, a caregiver. -- and, you can do it right here in the park while enjoying your tea, who needs a doctor, bro? here we go, my man needs a cleaning. yes. look at her. enjoy your therapy, you might want to put that down. it hits the sweet spot, just relax, keep your head forward. >> what is he doing? >> he has a number of devices. >> is using the devices on everybody else here? >> know they are thoroughly sanitized after every customer. stay in place, if you move -- don't try this at home, folks. one wrong move, the patient can lose all memory of life before 1985. which of it includes kenny

loggins might be a good deal, but i digress. >> oh yeah, here comes the good part. oh yeah, oh yeah that is a rush, right? there is the road to enlightenment right there. >> it's not a massage. >> you might as well straighten out his neck while you're at it. >> oh, don't do that. >> that didn't sound good. >> are you ready for the cleaner? you will be right over. the same tools as the air cleaner, by the way. >> ♪ ♪. >> as i explained to eric, a true artist must never stop learning, the japanese have a name for this principle in the intended pursuit of knowledge and enlightenment. >> today we will learn. >> with this in mind as well is

the classic work of mr. robbie dangerfield that i decided to go back to school to make the ultimate sacrifice to my friend to return to that place of childhood torment. so that my friend might learn, might just may be better himself and hopefully bring some of that knowledge to the hungry and the needy people. did you get that right? look at the machine, no problem. >> ♪ ♪ >> that is a little bit thick, man. in order to get to the top and the harsh competitive world of professional cooking, sometimes you have to use sharp elbows. get your own, man. it is a cold world out there, better he learns it here than on the street.

>> time is up! >> the walk is intensely hot, things cook quickly in there, a few seconds to slow, and things swiftly turned from the sublime to the ridiculous. >> okay, finished. >> voilccheese eater. >> overcooked. >> and what about this guy? --

>> overcooked it. you had the meat a little beat. >> this is a flintstone knife. look at that knife work. >> it was not too big, it throughout the whole balance of the dish. you see here, you can see the consistency of the meat. >> feeling the consistency of the meat is something you are well used to my friend.

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♪ ♪ >> almost everywhere i had been, there is a terrifyingly much loved alcoholic beverage at the very center of the culture, one whose consumption is rigorously reserved in tradition and ritual. whether it is some sinister moonshine in a 55 gallon drum in africa, or a distilled spirit the mountains of the caucuses or a more refined concoction here, you must drink it.

ladies and gentlemen, i give you . it has been around for a very long time. in the distillery, it had been making the stuff for over 500 years. >> normally chinese people drink premium, in the occasion to entertain important guests. so, in china, the premium means a lot. >> at a business dinner, banquet, one can reasonably expect to drink quite a lot of the stuff, especially when your host is in the business of making it and my french friend has concerns. >> we want to know how we drink. >> yes, of course. yes. >> chinese tradition, we start with three cups. so we drink together. after three cups, everyone well

drink with each other. one by one. >> i have told them what might be expected of him and the futility of resisting. >> it is very distinctive, very special. >> there will be food i told him, a lot of food. and one must not under any circumstances bring shame on our house. wow, the next round is one by one. so how does that work? oh, we may as well get started. >> ♪ ♪ >> thank you very much. hope you enjoy it. >> thank you very much. >> welcome to chengdu. >> thank you so much. in business, how often do you entertain like this?

>> two, two, three days a week. >> two, three times a week? >> and then sometimes in one day three times. >> oh, three times? >> yeah. >> oh, wait. excuse me, eric. >> yes, tony? my dear friend. thank you so much for taking me here. i will remember forever. >> okay, good. ♪

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♪ like many residents of the city of chengdu, we decide to head out to the country for the weekend. get in touch with, like, nature, man. i made a potentially lethal mistake this morning. i did something i never do. >> which is? >> i ate a western breakfast at the hotel. it's always bad news. >> why? >> just something you shouldn't do when you're outside of the states. never eat the western breakfast in a hotel. >> no, that i agree. yeah. >> i'm feeling it already. it's not good.

>> well, the good news, we are seated by the bathrooms. >> you know, i don't want, on a train is never a good thing. >> you have luxury taste, i noticed. kind of elitist. >> really? i don't like to roll around in my own -- in a moving bathroom, that's elitist? >> embrace the experience. >> we're about, maybe, 115 kilometers away from the center city of chengdu. >> chen zhong is a filmmaker from beijing who often returns to chengdu, the place of his birth, to enjoy the more laid-back pace. so, on the weekends, everybody comes out to -- what's it called? >> it's a term to describe a place like this. >> right.

>> it means, you know, that the agricultural family happiness, something like that. >> agricultural family happiness or rural family happiness. >> rural, yeah, rural family happiness. it's like the rural families, they are holding the business like this, a restaurant and also entertainment place for people to come over to eat, to enjoy the view, to fish, and to play mahjong. >> right. you ever do that when you go back to france, go a weekend, help somebody pick grapes, do agricultural work? >> not really. >> no. you lived on a farm for a while, yes? >> yeah. >> can you milk a cow? if you had to, would you know how to milk a cow? >> yeah, yeah. yeah, i can milk a cow, yeah. you know how to do it? >> how hard could it be? >> it's not easy. >> i can squeeze. >> no, no. it's not easy. you have to have a touch, a special touch. i'm telling you. >> how long does it take to learn? >> well, it depends how good you are with your fingers. >> oh, i'm good.

>> almost every city in sichuan has a kind of representative dishes, and in this area they're very famous for its intestine. pig intestine. >> oh yeah? it's not bad. >> uh-huh. >> so, if you were on a beach. >> okay. >> and you're hanging out. you're drinking a nice bottle of chilled rose, having some fois gras snacks, and some saucisson as one does. >> yeah. yeah, we all do that. >> who would you rather see in a speedo? wolf blitzer, dr. sanjay gupta, or anderson cooper? >> ooh, that's a tough one. >> no. no, actually that's an easy, there's an easy answer. >> none of them. >> really? >> in a speedo? you know what is a speedo? it's those bathing suits. >> well, no. it's a banana hammock. >> like a small, very narrow

bathing suit. >> it's a french style. >> oh, oh, oh, oh, okay. >> so, when someone's running in slow motion down the beach in a silver lame speedo, of those three, who would you choose? >> i don't know. >> come on! it's anderson cooper. the guy, like, works out. that's a good-looking man. >> does he? he works out? i don't know. >> you disappoint me, eric. you really do. cheers. >> cheers. cheers. >> cheers. ganbei. >> ganbei. ganbei. >> ah, no. ganbei you finish the -- no. cheers. wow, you took it seriously. >> you become more and more chinese now. ♪ live from cnn world headquarters in atlanta,