♪ she rules the world with truth and grace ♪ ♪ and wonders of his love ♪ ♪ and wonders and wonders of his love ♪ spotless.

efficient. safe. protected. controlled. a utopian city-state run like a multinational company. welcome to singapore incorporated. ♪ this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪

♪ shchlt ah la la la la ♪ sha la la la ♪ >> singapore. one could be forgiven for thinking it's a giant, ultramodern shopping mall. an interconnected, fully wired, air-conditioned nanny state, where everything is beautiful and nothing hurts.

and those things are kind of true, especially if you read the papers or the carefully monitored internet. you look around the litterless streets where everything seems to work just fine, just fine. and you think, or you could be forgiven for thinking, gee, maybe a one-party system is just what we need. you look at all the social problems and ethnic strife, street crime, drugs that singapore has managed to avoid, and you could think, is this the life we want? it ain't my system, it's not the world i want but -- it has its appeal. >> hi, this is singapore. you like it? >> jam-packed in between the

carefully feng shuied architecture, the skyscrapers and office blocks are rich, deep, very old and deliciously funky remnants of the old world. chinese, indian, malay. and a culture that still cherishes the joys of a simple, good thing. >> a lot of the national foods we get here in singapore. >> what's your favorite? my favorite is, in malay, i think you don't know, we call it mee goreng. >> that's your favorite, the malay dish. what's your favorite chinese dish? >> chinese hokkien mee. >> hokkien mee? >> sometimes chicken rice. >> chicken, of course. >> that's my favorite indian dish. >> definitely nasi biryani, you know that? >> biryani. >> biryani rice, you got it. >> oh, sungei road, right? yeah, that's the best side of sungei road. funny, i recognize every place here by food. >> tony, how are you? >> looking good.

>> so what blows you back to singapore, man? >> you know why i come here. i come here to eat. >> i live here to eat too. >> i come here mostly to eat, because that's what they do here. and they arguably do it better with more diverse, affordable food options per square foot than just about anywhere on earth. ♪ my godfather and mentor for singaporean street food has always been and remains kf seethe, the guru behind the makansutra food guides and an advocate for the kind of democratic, affordable, casual chaos of the hawker world. >> so this is the dry one. >> thank you. >> thank you, enjoy. >> thank you. okay, so wet and dry. >> wet and dry. and the heat gets to you a bit, bro. >> 545 whampoa prawn noodles for prawn mee seemed a good place to start.

>> we are here because ray found this girl who served us. she is one of the new heroes, the new generation heroes, that's out to protect and preserve our food culture. you know i've been talking about continuity for the longest time. >> i mean, i know you want to see traditional recipes and preparations preserved. >> i'm here to preserve what's traditional, what's progressive. progressive heritage food has a space. but if you are too creative with your stuff, you start putting truffle oil in this kind of stuff -- >> well, that's wrong always. >> creativity is not a flavor, tony. >> most hawker stalls are family-run operations, and whampoa is no exception. what's unusual is that li ruifang left her white-collar job to work alongside her parents, bucking a trend that has left the hawker centers with an aging workforce, unable to replenish generations of expertise with new blood.

>> if you look around, tony, look at all the hawkers. more than 70%, 80% of them are 50 and above. so the tipping point will come where everybody just give up their stall because their children have gone to university. they have told them, yeah, go be a doctor, lawyer, go be something else other than a hawker. >> but the singaporean government wants to build more stalls, more better, modern. >> 20 more hawker centers? >> to which i say, where the -- are the hawkers coming from? >> well, that's a good question. >> yeah, yeah. >> where are they going to come from? >> there's a lot of insinuations of an answer, but no true answer. >> i mean, the answer is not from singapore, right? they're going to have to come in from china. >> for the 15,000 or 20,000 food stalls like this we have in singapore, if it's public run like this, you can't hire foreigners. it's meant for singaporeans. >> but isn't the beginning of

all of this was people from china, india? >> that's what i keep saying. our food came from the rest of the world. >> from somewhere. >> yeah, we had nothing. and in that tradition, i say we must continue. >> up for rent, cook food stall. we should do a pop-up. get my apron. ♪ >> stamford raffles arrived in singapore in 1819 with the british east india company, establishing it first as a trading post for the british empire. soon thereafter, singapore grew, quickly becoming an economic hub and regional capital for the british empire's new colony on the malay peninsula. after world war ii, singapore clamored for independence, first becoming a part of the malaysian federation, then a fully independent state in 1965. helmed by its first prime minister, lee kuan yew, tiny

singapore famously went from a third-world outpost to a first-world nation in a single generation. >> in singapore, rules and regulations in singapore is very strict. we have to follow them. like i'm driving taxi. >> right. >> i can't break any law. >> so the camera catches it. >> yeah, everything is in camera. so it's very important to everyone. we have to follow the rules and regulations. that's the reason singapore is very good. singaporeans are very hardworking persons. as human beings, what we need? food to eat, clothes to wear, place to sleep. you can get it in singapore. so in other words, we have to continue to work. we work and we get something. once lazy, we're out. >> by some measure, singapore is a welfare state, taking care of the less fortunate. but at its heart, it's a cold-blooded meritocracy. you follow the rules, and there are many, work hard, and you'll

have a good life. that's the message. >> we are starting to define the definition of success. i think before, we were very clear with the five cs. car, condominium, credit card, cash, and career. >> wow, that sounds awful, dude. >> yeah, dude. i mean, i grew up with that idea. >> you grew up with that idea? >> yeah, exactly. >> that sounds kind of depressing. >> kind of, but that's the past, i think. >> the muslim quarter, just following afternoon prayers. i'm here with najip ali, the singaporean malay entertainer and producer. >> yeah, okay. >> oh, looking good. >> this is it. >> so this is long tong. >> long tong. >> and this? >> this is mee siang. >> wow. >> we're having long tong, rice cake, coconut gravy, vegetables, and a hard-boiled egg.

and mee siang, fried rice noodles with chili paste, prawns, bean sprouts, and a spicy, sweet, and sour gravy, fried bean curd, and an egg. >> they're delicious. i mean, we like to make fun of singapore in the west, and call it disneyland with the death penalty. and we're skeptical, of course, of one-party rule. we're skeptical of constraints on freedom of the press, or the things you can't do. >> yeah, you can't, yeah. >> do you think that young, creative singaporeans feel those constraints and suffer from them? >> i think some of them who travel knows better. most of them are over-educated and under-exposed, meaning they are very little experience in what they know. and i think that's what we are lacking. they're looking for things to do. and the problem with this is always that we're living in a small country, and we have nowhere to go, and where do we experience these things?

if you're in new york, and you don't like the city life, you say shit i'm not going to -- >> you can say it on this show. >> i'm going to take this. >> i think we have two more on this hour. that was one. >> i'm going to get out of the city, so you go to minnesota, you go to texas, you take time to think about. >> right. >> and even in malaysia, when you are in kuala lumpur, and you go to terengganu, you go to kelantan, we have nowhere to go. >> not only is singapore a small city-state, a little more than half the size of l.a., but there's also a pressure of a kind from a big brother government who's always watching, however benevolently one might think. >> every day, as an entertainer, as a producer-director, we are reminded what not to do. don't insult other races, don't insult other religions. there are some parameters that we always need to see. >> right. >> but i think as a creative person, i think we are always trying to work out. and i think that's challenging for us. and again, most of the things

that i do on television is funded by the government. so, you know, so what? >> you're biting the hand that feeds you. >> but our job is basically as entertainers just to purely entertain. and we know there are lines that we can't cross. religion, our ancestors, our parents, you know, things like that. >> you can't make fun of your parents in comedy? >> if your own parents, okay. >> i mean, family members? >> but i give high marks when they, you know -- they can give you a twist to a story of a mother-in-law. >> right, a mother-in-law is okay. >> yeah, a mother-in-law is okay. >> why does a mother-in-law always get in trouble? >> i don't know. our car that's it at carvana tattoo studio gel pencil liner from maybelline new york. show up bold wherever you go. smudge-resistant. waterproof. up to 36-hour wear. tattoo studio gel pencil. maybelline new york.

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so on a basic level, singapore works in so many ways. security, your family, education. >> housing. >> housing. so in a way, you're kind of numbed into thinking that, you know, everything's wonderful. and then you start to wonder after a while, is there another way of life? you know, i think that's the big kind of singapore dilemma in a way. >> so is there angst? >> yeah, but certainly there's angst. >> but i think there's no outlet for it. so everybody's, you know, going online. everybody likes to be anonymous about it. >> even online, they have paid the price for it. people have been let go of their jobs, and that's the price that we have to pay. >> the price may seem pretty high by american standards. no political dissent, no right to assembly, a restricted press and limited freedom of speech. sadir vadaketh, melanie chan,

and tanya angerer. all singaporeans, all navigating the rules and regs, both spoken and unspoken, that go along with prosperity, security, safety. lor 29 in geylang for fried oyster omelets and fried prawns with chili paste, bak chor mee, fish ball noodle soup and beef satay. >> i think one of the issues is that we're kind of a victim of our own success in many ways. >> right. >> we've grown so fast, and i guess expectations among the liberals and progressives have just gone so far ahead, including myself. but sometimes, you know, we need a reality check about what pace society can move at. so i think that's the tension, is that economic growth has happened so quickly, and sometimes social mores, social customs might take a bit more time. >> you know, a place where everything works this well, and

a system so seemingly different than the one we are taught to venerate, that's genuinely confusing. so what's the best thing about singapore, and what's the worst thing about singapore? >> i think best things are tolerance and efficiency. but you know, if you just look around us right now, there's like a mosque over there, there's a buddhist temple over there. there are like a bunch of brothels over there, prostitutes walking the street legally, they're regulated by the government, and everybody has kind of accepted this quid pro quo situation, and it somehow works. >> okay, you were shaking your head though on something you were saying. >> no, no, i agree, but to be feeling so secure and the security of it all, i think that's priceless. you know, it's like i'll do what i have to do to be able to afford to live well here. i'll work hard, i'll tolerate, and you know, and even then, it's not that bad.

when it comes to me voicing certain things which maybe the government doesn't agree with, i feel i have outlets that don't have to be public, right? >> okay. >> and i'm okay with that. >> you talk about feeling safe. >> yeah, security. >> do you feel respected? >> definitely. i do. >> do you feel that there's parity for women, and you are paid and treated as well as men? >> yes. >> yes, i think so. yes. >> you know why? i think that's because of maids. >> what are maids? >> maids, as in helpers. >> helpers. >> i think you'll find that, actually, if you look at singapore, a lot of women are in the workforce, and the reason why that is so is because everybody's got a maid looking after their child at home. so maids are kind of like the opiate of the masses.

>> yeah, opiate keeps you slothful and laying on the couch. >> exactly. >> exactly. >> but if you have a maid, you're saying it frees you up to join the workforce. >> it frees you up, but it also means that my husband now, he doesn't know how to serve himself water. >> yeah. >> he goes, here, water, like that. >> laundry? >> sorry? >> can he do laundry? >> no. >> laun -- what? >> really? >> no. >> does anyone here know how to do laundry? >> we know how to do it. >> kind of, in theory. >> we haven't done it. >> the guys do because we did two years of military service. but the girls are pampered. >> oh, please. >> when was the last time you did laundry? when was the last time you did laundry? >> listen, my maid was awesome. >> four days ago. >> four days ago? yeah? >> when you sent it to the butler? >> no, no. i enjoy doing laundry. >> yeah? >> i live by myself in new york. i live by myself in new york. >> yeah. >> and i have to tell you, maybe it's a sickness, maybe it's a weird thing. but i enjoy throwing my clothes into the washer and then moving them to the dryer. it's a process that makes me feel very satisfied with myself. >> therapeutic.

>> no, no. i feel very self-reliant. you know, listening to you people, i've got to tell you, i want to like go out and join the communist party. it's like bourgeois, man. you're living off the labor of an oppressed underclass. >> yeah, yeah, yeah. >> i want to start my own cell. i'm just kidding. >> for a state where an ounce of weed can put you in the jug for up to ten years and the same weight of dope can mean death, where chewing gum is indeed illegal, a surprising number of vices are allowed here. drinking age is 18. prostitution is legal, with sex workers getting regular medical checkups. there are casinos and strip clubs. the government seems to understand that, along with a certain amount of repression, safety valves are required. get drunk, get laid, and you are

less likely to be difficult. perhaps that's the thinking. or maybe it's just business. ♪ to many, singapore is the land of opportunity. people from all over the world come here to get a good job, to find a better life. >> as an overseas chinese, we have been discriminated in laos, thailand, vietnam, indonesia, malaysia, in america, australia, all over the world. suddenly you've got this guy

called lee kuan yew. nowhere else in the chinese world has a real leader as big as lee kuan yew. >> much of singapore's success is often credited to its first prime minister, lee kuan yew, a singaporean of chinese descent, considered the founding father of modern singapore. reigning pretty much unopposed for 30 years, he's responsible for much of the social engineering that holds singapore together, as well as the favorable economic policies that have allowed it to thrive. michael ma arrived in singapore to take advantage of its business climate, becoming an early pioneer of singapore's now famous nightlife. >> back then, in the very beginning, was it a favorable business climate in the sense that, did they look upon your early efforts generously or kindly, or were they, i'm not so sure about this guy? how was it from the beginning? >> no, no, no. singapore was fantastic.

>> and what time did bars close? >> 2:00. that's where the opportunity i saw. you know, you cannot run this economy hopping on one leg. you've got the right law, the right safety, everything's right. but the social part was not right. >> right. >> 2:00, you're managing a teenager. 2:00 guys, go to bed. >> so when did it change and why? >> i started my bars and restaurant in 1999. yeah. >> yeah. >> and the prime minister of singapore at that time went, 2005, '10, '20, '30. this is before all this. >> right. >> i suggest partying all night type of thing. >> welcome to singapore. come and join with us. ♪ >> i'm not very smart, so the only way they got me from

university is just to throw a lot of parties. i was good at throwing parties, get pa to do it, which is even better. [music plays] ♪ if your instinct is to help. ♪ then clearly you care. ♪ you have what it takes to be a care professional. home instead.

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♪ >> one-fifth of the world's shipping containers move through the port of singapore. it is the busiest trans-shipment point on the planet. ♪ singapore has fully embraced globalization, and that's proved in their case very rewarding.

>> singapore is an outsized economic port primarily because it's so attractive to foreign entrepreneurs, primarily in the form of multinational corporations. so right from the start, the economic strategy was always to attract foreign capital. >> donald low is an economist who spent over ten years researching and writing about singapore's unique financial policies. >> you know, this place is almost contrary to the founders' original expectations. this place works. this multi-ethnic, meritocratic ideal, this pragmatic streak, this understanding that free trade is good for everyone, this place, after 50 years, is deeply imprinted in singaporeans. it's remarkable how open and welcoming of diversity singapore still is. >> we are now living in times where globalism and globalization are bad words. >> yeah, i know. >> we are seeing a rise of populism, of nationalism. >> that's why, you know, i'm

worried about and concerned about singapore's future. this is a place that has been the main beneficiary of globalization. and as the world turns against globalization, as the world becomes more inward-looking, as countries in europe and the u.s. becomes more concerned about protecting their own borders, literally in the case of the u.s., there is a high probability that singapore will not thrive in such a world . >> a lot of social engineering has been superimposed to hold that together, and i think quite a lot of westerners who come to singapore, who come here skeptical, are often reluctantly pulled into the inescapable

conclusion that it seems to work. >> it seems to work. but of course, the post-independent singapore government has been often accused of being extremely keen and extremely competent at social engineering. of course, the most powerful instrument of social engineering is public housing. we force singaporeans, a large majority of singaporeans, more than 80% of them, to live in these more or less uniform housing estates. but that form of social engineering also has certain benefits. >> unlike most of the wealthy developed world, there's universal healthcare and little to no homelessness in singapore. the country's public housing policy provides an astonishing 80% of singapore's 5.6 million people with affordable homes, with 90% of the population owning their own home. >> singaporeans would be hard-pressed to name a neighborhood that they would describe as a slum. they would be hard-pressed to name a neighborhood where they would say, oh, the people here live in relatively deprived conditions with poor schooling and poor amenities.

most of singapore feels, i mean, even though economic inequality is high, income inequality is high, you don't see it in the public housing estates. >> right. >> it's a picture of general equality. >> by ensuring its citizens are safe, housed, healthy, and for the most part economically successful, the singaporean government has been effective at keeping the masses placated enough, willing to accept curbs on their freedoms and civil liberties. >> do you think that the singaporean success story is a rebuke to american western values in some respect? >> no, no. >> i mean, is free speech overrated? >> i don't think we succeeded because of the absence of free speech. and to a large extent, the values of free trade, the values of a liberal global order, these are western ideas, right? i mean, singapore did not invent them.

the asians did not invent them. it shouldn't work. >> it hasn't really worked like this anywhere else, and yet it works. >> i think that my objection or my discomfort with the lack of democratic freedoms is that i think we can allow a lot more of that without hurting singapore's prosperity and stability one ounce. >> right. >> what would we lose if we had a freer press? what would we lose if we had more democratic or opposition representation? and we'll make for not just a more livelier debate, we'll make for a better debate. we may well arrive at the conclusion that the current dispensation, the current order represents the best possible society for singapore, but let's have that debate. >> i mean, it's a horrifying thought. >> it's possible that the human mind, that the average citizen cannot deal with that much diversity, that we need these curbs and restrictions on our freedoms.

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♪ of the many ethnicities co-existing in singapore, one of the oldest is the peranakan culture, straits-born chinese who immigrated to the malay

peninsula in the 16th century. >> we have a heritage that exists in singapore that comprises five different ethnic groups. you have your chinese, you have your malay, you have your indian, you have your eurasians and your peranakan. and this makes the cuisine here very, very special. >> cheers. >> cheers. >> chef damian d'silva has made it his mission to preserve and protect the knowledge, techniques, and flavors of singaporean heritage foods. guan hoe soon is the oldest peranakan restaurant in singapore, predating independence. >> so this is a dish that you'd properly find in the malay home. it's sour, it's sweet because of the pineapple, right, and it's savory as well. >> ikan assam nanas, sour fish

curry with pineapple. >> so really we're talking about a sort of, you know, i hate the word fusion, but it's natural fusion. >> it's indigenous fusion. it's a fusion that started 500 years ago. so now it's evolved so much, tony, that it's become a heritage on its own, a cuisine on its own, you know. there's nothing, i think, that is like this anywhere in the world. >> itek sioh. >> thank you. okay, that's duck. yeah, that's duck. >> braised duck. >> yeah. >> itek sioh, duck braised with tamarind and coriander. and the famous lady fingers, or sambar bendi, okra sauteed with sambal. >> who's cooking now? has that changed? >> it has changed. you know, everybody wants to go up the ladder very quickly, and they want to do it in a way where they don't want to put too

much effort in it, right. where is the prestige in a peranakan restaurant? you work in the kitchen 12, 14, 15 hours a day, you know, and most of them don't want to do that. so what happens is that they want to work in a french restaurant, they want to work in an italian restaurant. why? because they get more money. >> okay. >> okay? >> i think it's a tactical mistake, because i just flew halfway around the world to singapore, and i sure as -- am not eating french food when i'm here. >> no, you're right. >> and you know what? >> you shouldn't. >> i'm not going to eat japanese food. >> no, you shouldn't. so you talk about peranakan cuisine, right, and are there people that cook it today? i can tell you, out of 100 peranakans, maybe one. >> whoa. >> maybe one. >> so you're saying that, basically, you're talking about the dinosaurs? >> yeah, this no longer exists

anymore. it's gone. >> one of the things i admire about singaporean food culture is that people are very passionate about food. they value a fancy french or italian meal as much as they enjoy a really good chicken rice. >> right. >> they're just not willing to pay for it. >> exactly. you know, that's the public that we have to educate, and it doesn't make sense only because we're a first-world country. you know, how can food be so cheap? how long more is this going to last? that we pay $3 for chicken rice? it's insane. >> i have the solution. it's an ugly solution. it's a terrible solution, but it will probably be the only salvation. it's the hipster solution. it's hipsters will save the day. >> no, you're right. >> it takes people to stand up and say, look, i don't care whether his is $4. mine is $12. it's $12, and it's worth it. >> but to go and work in a

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♪ >> okay, let me just let you know what we are doing. this one dish is my dad's recipe, hokkien recipe. so it's pig trotters with black vinegar. and this is my mom's recipe, hainan mixed vegetable. >> meet the liews -- choy, koy liang, daughter geraldine, and sons paul and wayne. the family behind long-running,

much-loved eating house keng eng kee seafood in the alexandria village neighborhood. >> and your parents met in the restaurant business? >> yes. >> we only knew about this story when we got older and the media started to interview them and say, oh, that's how they know each other. we are typical chinese. they never talk about how they met. >> in the beginning, when they're working at your mother's parents' restaurant, and then in the beginning of their eating house, how many hours a day do they work? and how many days a week? how many days vacation? >> 12 hours a day, and then he gets one day off every two weeks. >> that's hard. >> thank you. it's fantastic.

wow, that's good. >> choy has been making this dish for decades. pig's feet cooked slowly in black vinegar, ginger, dried chilies, and assam. chap chye is a hainanese family favorite. cabbage and glass noodles stir-fried with bean curd, black mushrooms, pig skin, and shrimp. >> now, i've been speaking to a lot of people who talk about how singapore loves its hawker culture, it loves its food, but the general story is the first generation starts a hawker stall, they get successful, they send the kids to school, and they tell them, i did not work hard so you could go into the restaurant business. >> my dad and mom say the same thing, don't come into this business.

>> get a 9 to 5 job, stay in the air-conditioned room. >> many of the people i speak to are very sad that these original recipes and preparations are disappearing. other than this wonderful family, who do your parents think will keep these traditions alive? >> my mom was saying, now that the government can encourage a lot of young people to preserve our traditions and all, so i think she believes and hopes that 10 years down the road, maybe more people like us or younger generation will go and take over the business. >> right now, win's eldest daughter is 14. we are making sure she helps out in the shop on weekends, so to let her understand it's not easy to earn a life. >> but would you like your child to stay in the restaurant business? >> yeah, so if they're really interested in this industry, why not? >> you say, yeah? >> yeah. >> this is so good, by the way. this is delicious food.

>> now, singapore is a rich country. a lot of rich people live here. why can't you charge as much money for this traditional food as the french charge for french food? what do you think? why won't singaporeans pay? >> actually, just a couple of months ago, we go through some of our old photos, and there's one photo that is like almost 20 years ago. there's a price list. they're selling their fried rice at $3 a pack. right now, we are selling $4. >> 20 years later. >> $1 more. >> why? singaporeans love food. >> i think there's like a bond between us and the customers, so he doesn't want to increase the price. >> you know your customers. you have a lot of regulars. >> yeah. >> a lot of them have seen us growing up, the three of us, and we see their kids growing up. so i think there's a different kind of bond between us and the customers.

>> i just hope this doesn't disappear because it's, of course, always going to be the good stuff. it's important. a little more. maybe a little more. delicious food. smudge-resistant. waterproof. up to 36-hour wear. tattoo studio gel pencil. maybelline new york. i'm lindsey vonn, and ever since i retired from skiing, i've had trouble falling asleep and staying asleep. you know, insomnia. before i found quviviq, an fda-approved insomnia medication for adults. you would not believe the things i used to think about when i couldn't sleep. hey, linds. i need you to sign this business contract. all 114 pages. lindsey, lindsey!! hey, lindsey! it's workout time. hey, big man, we're in the middle of something here. yeah, it's called physical fitness. just a couple dozen more questions, lindsey. don't forget to pack your phone charger for tomorrow morning's flight. it's plugged in right over there. insomnia can impact both my days and my nights.

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singapore is a multinational society. we've got chinese, malay, indian, other races in singapore. >> it seems to work. >> it works, it works, yes . ♪ >> one last trip straight back to where it all started for me.

a simple, good thing. in this case, one of my favorite things. >> here it is, the mighty char kway teow. ordinarily, this is a breakfast. i eat it every time i'm in singapore. it's just about the unhealthiest breakfast you can have. i mean, it's literally like lard, crispy lard bits, healthy cockles, shrimp paste, and a whole lot of noodles. and it's like legendarily fattening. originally created to feed laborers. so, it ain't pretty. not the healthiest breakfast, but delicious. if you're looking to fit into that silver lamé speedo, this

would not be option one. oh, man. problem is, you eat this, surrounded by all these sort of wonders of asia. it's in the food court here, and after this, you're kind of done. i don't know how anybody works after this, frankly. once in a while, you hit a little piece of crispy pork fat. well, my work is done here today. wide . >> in singapore, everything is perfect here. this is one of the safest countries in the world. we are gifted to be in singapore. it shows a good example to the world.

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