heads away, it will once again be magic. i hope i'm there to see it. [ bells ] [ acordian ]

[ acordian ] ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la ♪ >> anthony: pittsburgh is a city of neighborhoods.

each with it's own rights, and rituals. a patchwork of cultures that took shape over a century ago. back then, the city was a beacon of hope and possibility for people from all over the world, offering the promise of work, prosperity, a new life. pittsburgh could have been another company town gone to beautiful ruin. but something happened. the city started to pop up on lists of the most livable places in america. it became attractive to a new wave of people from elsewhere looking to reinvent themselves and make a new world. and so we find ourselves asking the same questions we ask in other cities in transition. are the new arrivals, new money, new ideas saving the city, or cannibalizing it? who will live in the pittsburgh of the future? and will there be room for the people that stayed true, stuck with it their whole lives?

♪ >> anthony: oh man, i'm very happy about this. sausage and peppers, one of my favorite things. all right. >> anthony: bocce, the ancient game of kings. throw the little ball, try and get the other balls close. closer than the other guys. >> anthony: cent'anni. >> all: cent'anni! >> man in gray hat: gene, uncle gene, this is anthony bourdain. >> anthony: how do you do? >> man in gray hat: 103 years old. >> anthony: looking good. >> man in gray hat: he goes up and down these bocce courts faster than anybody else. >> anthony: ah, delicious. this is a weakness of mine, you know they have these street fairs in new york where they have the sausage and peppers stands. i don't walk past one of those things without getting them.

>> all: whoa! >> anthony: so, how long have you lived in this community? >> man in gray hat: 78 years. >> anthony: so, your whole life? >> man in gray hat: yes. >> anthony: now, the first wave of italians that came over here from italy, why did they come here? did they come here for steel jobs? coal? >> man in gray hat: actually, trade. i think they came here more for the trade. >> anthony: yeah? >> man in gray hat: yeah. >> man in black hat: plumbers, bricklayers, any kind of trade like that. >> man in pirates hat: some italians said that they were told to come over here and they were going to find the roads paved with gold. they said, they didn't tell us we had to build them first. >> anthony: how has the neighborhood changed over the years? still predominantly italian-american, or? >> man in gray hat: yeah, not as much as it was, but still more italian than anything else. >> anthony: well for 35 years or so, it was a tough time for pittsburgh. why'd people stay? >> man in gray hat: family, famiglia. >> man in pirates hat: i tell

people, when you come to bloomfield don't talk about anybody because we're all connected somehow. >> anthony: alright, on you, sir. >> man in gray hat: yeah. don't hit it, don't hit it nothing, go around. ahh! >> anthony: oh, no way . >> anthony: 103-year-old uncle gene ruins my dreams of bocce immortality.

and the weather, as if on cue, turns bad. an auger of doom, perhaps. >> man: whoa! >> man in gray hat: that's a shame. >> anthony: and god himself appears to align himself against me. hurling all that beautiful sausage and meatballs onto the cold, wet ground. >> big shirt: that's still good. >> anthony: well, i'm glad i got to eat. ♪

>> stewart: 'oh', arlene said, as they passed the old nabisco plant. cleaned up and advertising condominiums. 'have you heard how much they are asking for a one bedroom?' 'how much?' 'a million-two.' 'that is highway robbery. who would honestly pay that to live in east liberty?' 'they are calling it east side now.' 'who's calling it that?' 'no one i know. it's a boondoggle if i ever saw one.' beside the greed factor, she didn't actually mind the condos. better than leaving the building empty. >> anthony: stewart o'nan is a local author who has written 15 novels, many set in pittsburgh. >> stewart: we are the city that made the steel, that beat the confederacy, beat the kaiser. built the skyscrapers, built the bridges, beat the nazis. ♪

♪ >> anthony: who came, in the very beginning, lured by jobs in steel. >> stewart: most of the people that came here, once the steel industry was in place, were people from central europe. they were blue-collared, they worked long hours. they worked hard dangerous jobs. they made the money to send their kids to schools to become white collar. at one point i believe we were the sixth largest city in america. we're now 63rd. >> anthony: now wait a minute. sixth largest in america, now 63rd? >> stewart: sixty-third. >> anthony: so, what happened? >> stewart: well, the steel industry began to falter in the 1960s. and by the 1980s it was essentially dead. in the 1980s this place was a ghost town. we lost half of our population. they went away. and half of your population means at least half, if not more, of your tax bace. >> anthony: so what went right? >> stewart: what went right,

weirdly enough, was what went wrong. we became attracted to people outside of pittsburgh because it's super affordable. >> anthony: bow down to your new masters. your techie future. the robot overlords of a shiny, the computer science program at carnegie mellon is one of the best in country. inspiring an arms race between companies looking to recruit brainiacs for new fields of artificial intelligence, cutting edge medical research, possibly cyborg super-nerds who will no doubt revenge themselves on all of us for their painful high school experiences by crushing us between their synthetic mandibles. they are also good for business. >> waiter: here you go, guys. >> stewart: thank you. >> anthony: thank you. >> stewart: the googlers who are coming in are coming in at the very top of the food chain. and they are walking into brand new housing. they are making six figures, they are 23 years old. and, you know, i think the

old-school, the people that have been here forever, are not happy about it. >> anthony: i mean, you know, it's going to be all pencil necks, like in 20 years. bad breeding stock. >> stewart: it's the problem of inclusion and exclusion, right? it's the american problem, that's what fitzgerald writes about in gatsby. who is included, who is excluded? who's allowed in, who isn't? >> anthony: right. >> stewart: and that is the worry; that we are going to forget the people that have lived through it and have stayed here, and had no choice but to stay here. ♪ ♪ e the choice. sirloin salisbury steak and all-natural salmon. perfect for lunch or dinner. only at ihop. download the app and earn free food with every purchase. so it takes the right tool for the job... to keep it together. now there's new theraflu flu relief with a max strength fever fighting formula. the right tool for long lasting flu symptom relief. hot beats flu.

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>> anthony: justin severivo opened his restaurant, cure, as an ode to flesh, smoke, and animal fat. maggie meskey designs and creates cocktail programs at bars and restaurants across the city. and sonja finn was here from the beginning, planting the flag for farm - to - table cooking back in the early days, with her restaurant, dinette. ♪ ♪ >> anthony: the countryside around pittsburgh is beautiful. another world. i join a group of foodie all-stars about 20 miles outside of town for a meal.

>> anthony: are there typical, iconic pittsburgher qualities? >> maggie: i'd say you probably worked here and brag about working here. you complain about millennials. you complain about the people in the street harassing you. you don't like anything new, at all. >> anthony: you're describing me. >> anthony: the menu is looking good. right in my happy zone. racks of pork rib, grilled hearts of escarole and turnips. a sauce made from the pork drippings. and, four types of sausage. >> anthony: wow, look at this.. >> maggie: this is amazing. >> anthony: that's titanic. i don't want to speak about pittsburgh in a dismissive way, but it was not known for being what it is today. people are talking a lot about the food scene here. 'twas not always so, what were people eating before? >> justin: you know, steak and potatoes. >> sonja: you know, living in san francisco, as a young person in your 20s, you were going out to eat. that was really important. and we all knew about the

restaurants, whether you were in the restaurant business or not. and that wasn't pittsburgh. when i opened dinette in 2008, you know, i'm expecting people like me to be coming in. i'm 29, that's who i'm building this restaurant for. and everyone was. >> justin: 56. >> sonja: yea, my parents age or older. ♪ ♪ >> justin: you know, i thought to myself, i'm going to this neighborhood that's basically desolate. i'm going to take this building that's, it's a restaurant that's been closed for seven years. and i'm going to do something nice here. you know i didn't expect the reaction i got from the actual people that lived around me. >> anthony: right. >> justin: you know, which was not positive. they liked it the way it was. you know, that was their life. and then i move in and all of a sudden, i open this restaurant and people with nice, fancy cars are taking their parking spaces. and now i'm a yuppie gentrifier.

you know what i mean? >> anthony: well, you know, own it. >> sonja: sometimes it kind of hurts, right? as a restaurant owner or small business owner, because there are always haters out there. and you feel like, okay, so somebody wants me to be a small business owner, and take care of my employees. and then also on me, they are going to talk about gentrification. like you're just trying to do your thing. you're just trying to do something good. >> anthony: right. >> justin: and you're trying to do it for you. and you should. >> sonja: yeah, but, i don't know, i mean for me it's different. like, i definitely was thinking about the neighborhood when i did it. like i'm not some egomaniac who thinks that just putting out my food is a reason. so that everyone can enjoy the artistry of my food. that's why i'm opening a restaurant. that's not the point. >> justin: not to disagree with any of what you just said. but i didn't open cure in lawrenceville because i wanted to change the neighborhood. i honestly opened cure for me, 100%. i was like struggling professionally, struggling personally.

cure was all about satisfying me. like, 100%. >> anthony: if i'm running a high-end restaurant in pittsburgh, who am i employing as porters, dishwashers. >> sonja: students. >> justin: honestly, like, our dishwashers are white kids. >> anthony: no way. >> justin: pittsburgh, pa, is a big bright shining star of an example of what blue-collar america was a hundred years ago. >> sonja: when we are looking at who is applying, we also need to look at neighborhoods. the topography of pittsburgh is such that neighborhoods are separated by bridges and ravines. and this sort of thing means that people stay within their neighborhood. ♪ ♪ >> anthony: everybody is talking about a pittsburgh renaissance. there are artists coming, there are hip, new restaurants. somebody is making money. >> sala: yes. >> anthony: money is definitely coming in. is it lifting all boats? >> sala: no. it is not. the new pittsburgh attracts new

people. but, it doesn't change the life for those workers who were left behind. and kind of spit out. >> anthony: this is the hill district, traditionally african-american. the numbers here do not indicate a renaissance. black homes take in half the income of their white neighbors. and african-american youth are six times as likely to be arrested, go through the system. from which many can never break free. when activist sala udin was growing up here, the neighborhood was thriving. the golden age harlem of pittsburgh. >> sala: they used to call this city 'hell with the lid off'. the mills ran 24 hours a day. i grew up in a time when most adult men in the neighborhood, in the morning, i saw them getting up and going to work. my dad for example, dropped out of school, but was still able to find work that paid enough to raise a family. my mother had 12 children. >> anthony: and your dad was able to raise 12 kids? >> sala: that's right.

>> anthony: wow. that was a very different america. >> sala: that was a very different america. >> pedestrian: how you doing, sala? >> sala: good, good. this is where i lived, this is where i grew up. all of this area, this whole flat parking lot area that you see. this is where we lived. devastation. they just completely devastated our whole neighborhood. ♪ ♪ >> anthony: in the 1950s, the city came up with a plan to revitalize the hill district by leveling large swaths of it. eight thousand residents, including sala, were displaced. and instead of new housing, the land was used to build a hockey arena.

>> sala: difficult, painful memories of what used to be, and now we see suburbanites coming in to have a good time. visit the penguins. they don't live here. they just play here. and they don't, they don't know the pain that this playground caused. >> anthony: what's the missing component here? >> sala: what's missing is an economic plan that includes everybody. not just the techies and the computer geeks, but regular people.

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♪ ♪ >> anthony: by day, a mild-mannered dentist in training. but at night, she becomes, well, a super-hero. brittany baker is a star of the international wrestling cartel.

tonight, she defends her title, in a battle of the wrestling titans. boyfriend, adam cole, hopes to win a championship of his own. >> anthony: why do you think it's big here? >> brittany: in pittsburgh? >> anthony: yeah, what is it about pittsburgh that -- >> brittany: pittsburgh is a big sports city, in general. we have the penguins, the pirates, the steelers. >> adam: they are so proud of their sports teams. they're also very proud of their wrestling organizations. >> brittany: everyone is independent, no one is contracted. you work where you want to work and how you want to work. it's the big town, small city vibe. >> anthony: so the fact that it's not wwe is a point of pride. >> adam: to me, wrestling fans are the most passionate fans of any form of sport or entertainment. >> anthony: i will confess to you that i took a dim view of professional wrestling. like okay, it's not real, they use outrageous characters. i don't get it at all. and my daughter started getting really into it with her best friend. so i got tickets to wwe in new york, and i go in, i want to

wear a bag on my head because i'm really embarrassed to go to this thing. this is going to be totally lame. well, five minutes into this thing, i think this is like the

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