you see that lifestyle, people come from all over europe to spend hours in their car to be here. my grandparents and my uncles used to live that lifestyle, exactly like that and i forgot about it. now, i am remembering. >> a cynical chain of surf and turf restaurants and we can cash out in a few years. >> if it is to be here, i will do it. >> you heard it here first.

we go up this beautiful mountain, this incredible town, back to the 12th century, people charge up the hill to the beautiful church to take the walk at michael coreleone. now and forever more, it will be sort of the godfather theme park, where they are just playing the godfather theme over and over. >> most are disgusted by it. >> imagine not waking up every day as one bus after another

field with japanese tourist go up there. look, michael coreleone got married there, it is so fantastic! [ laughter ]

is one of the most beautiful places in europe, a place whose roots are very much the town where i live, but somehow, i've never been able to get it right. to tell the story, any story of sicily. it is the biggest island in the mediterranean, two main towns of palermo and catania on opposite sides. i've done a show in palermo before, it was an epic goat rodeo, a failure of humiliating scale. this time, i was going to get it right. >> there is the sicily we know from films, an provocative deeply from film that is not reality, but cool anyway, right? there is the simple fact of its location, tucked away under the boot of italy, a part of it, but not really a part of that country.

its own language, culture, its own history of norman, arab, spanish, roman, turkish, egyptian interlopers, all leaving their mark and their influence. i grew up in new jersey, pretty much sicily on the hudson. the italian americans next door weren't from milan, i can tell you that much. i guess what i am telling you is, i figured this would be easy. a certified tourist mount, meaning, it is a hotel, restaurant, and working farm that in this case this is olive oil. >> how many acres of property do you have? >> about 40 acres. all of this organic form. >> this is the proprietor. >> that is where potatoes come from. >> how freaking hard can it be to make an awesome show in sicily? eat the nice food, drink the wine. in an idyllic village

outside of catania, how low impact can it get? so the plan was, we go fishing. we had some fresh octopus, maybe some cuttlefish, explore the bounty of the surrounding waters, all while working on our tans with a local chef, fisherman, man of the sea. he is experienced. he knows where to get it good. >> you like the ocean? >> how do you say it in italian? >> [ speaking non-english ] >> one of my favorite things to eat. >> this is my host. what else is out there? octopus? >> [ speaking non-english ] i want to try to find some we call it [ speaking non-english ]. also, clams. the water is still cold. i think it will be really full.

>> i'm thinking, really? are these prime fishing waters? i don't know about this. all of this boat traffic and people, so close to the action i can't see much of anything. but i am famous for my optimism . i dutifully suited up for what was advertised as a three- hour cruise. so, i get in the water and i'm paddling around and splash. suddenly, there is a dead sea creature sinking to the seabed in front of me. are they kidding? i'm thinking, could this be happening? there is another one. another commodious frozen freaking octopus. it goes on. one cuttlefish deceased

octopus, frozen the urchin after another, splash, splash, splash. each specimen drops along the rocks or along the seafloor, to be heroically discovered by tourists moments later, privately showing off to the camera. i am not actually watching as this boat throws it in the water, one after another. i am no marine biologist, but i know dead octopus when i see one. i'm pretty sure they don't drop from the sky and sink straight to the bottom. >> three? okay, i tried to get some and also some [ speaking non- english ] >> strangely, everyone pretends to believe that hideous sham unfolding before our eyes, doing their best to ignore the blindly obvious. then, they dump the whole back of dead fish into the city sea.

at this point, i began differs desperately looking for signs of life, hoping that one of them would start, become revived . i'm frantically swimming around with dead things, looking for one still twitching so i can hold it up for the camera and end this misery. no, my shame will be absolute. for some reason, i feel something snap and i slide quickly into a spiral of new hysterical depression. is this what it has come to, i'm thinking, as another dead squid narrowly misses my head, almost a decade later back in the same country and i am still desperately staging fishing scenes, seeding the oceans with supermarket the food, complicit in a shameful, shameful incident of fakery. but there i was, bobbing listlessly in the

water, dead sea life sinking to the bottom all around me. you have got to be pretty immune to the world to not see some kind of obvious metaphor. i've never had a nervous breakdown before, but i can tell you from the bottom of my heart, something fell apart down there and it took a long, long time after the end of this episode to recover.

raw clams, abalone, and a heartwarming beach scene surrounded by curious and humble kids, it was at this point the only possible way for torre to redeem himself. you will notice, i am not there. i am sitting in a nearby cafe, pounding one brownie after another in a miserable rage.

our evening meal will be at tori's place, just up the hill. by the time dinner rolls around, i am ripped. did i mention, it is my birthday? i have had three hours of bobbing around on a boat, a couple of more hours getting looped, two more lining on the sidewalk, i am maybe gone. i don't remember any of this, any of it. >> so, how is your day today? >> it is good. a nice boat trip, a little swim. >> i would be told later that a gentleman joined me for dinner, also, someone on the crew mentioned his wife was present and she did not say much, presumably, because this was not her preferred way to spend her birthday. >> hi. this is my passion. i like to find all the variety of olive oil and one this is white. >> that is the original? >> yes, you will not find

anyplace else. >> apparently, there were these olives are harvested that only torre knows about. maybe next to a fishing hole. there was great sicilian line, apparently. apparently, i drank quite a lot of it. it was bread and olive oil, abalone served raw on the shelf. maybe starting also served raw with a splash of citrus and salt. >> this is the baby sardine, not much ingredients to taste better the fish. >> thank you. >> if you ask a sicilian, where you come from, the correct answer should be, i am italian, no, we say, i am sicilian. >> why? is sicily in italy? >> yes. >> should it be? >> reese to run from the britons, and spanish, basically , we are blended.

>> look, my octopus. i remember personally catching that one. it was a mighty struggle too. actually, i don't. >> beautiful little shrimp. very tender, the octopus. >> and another traditional special, i am told they call this tuna tartar and cuttlefish, i recognize, you my friend. >> how true is this to sicily? >> i think from the part of the sea they are always. >> elbaz? fisherman communities only, or in restaurants? as long as you have been alive you see like this? >> no, i see like we are family. >> the japanese sort of gave everybody permission to eat traditional foods, their own traditional food.

this great mother sicilian classic dishes? >> [ speaking non-english ] and parmesan. [ speaking non- english ] i think this is for me an explosion of flour, because they wanted sicily was very poor. >> this, i like. i even remember it. pastor [ speaking non-english ], actually, actually sicilian classic made with fennel, pinenuts, and anchovy, served alongside sardines and chestnuts and salt curing for days, lightly fried in oil. >> we got these to eat with the fish. >> i must have slumped back to bed somehow in a drunken heap of self-loathing. i would have turned on the

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i love the films, quote, godfather 1, and quote, godfather 2. they have nothing to do with organized crime in reality. they are opera, a magnificent opera, but basically a tale of loyalty and destroying the things you claim to love and want to protect. actual organized crime members italy speaking a bunch of spectacular, educated sociopaths who have no problem stealing from their own hard- working neighbors. here in sicily, less glamorous than glad prostitution. they are and have traditionally been a gigantic, parasitic

organism, one that has grown to be of near equal size as its host. mary is originally from new york , but she has been living here in palermo for half a century now. she is a food writer, and at one time, a reformer for social justice, a dicey thing to be here. >> you have been here all this time, why? >> i came for a year. it was going to be a year between college and graduate school. i just finished college, i met a man. i married a sicilian and have lived here ever since. >> restaurant, like a lot of others around here, except for the quality of its food. >> tell me, where are we first of all? >> the father and mother, present owner opened this. 1951, there is a wonderful photograph on the wall of opening-day.

it has become a well-known and much appreciated restaurant now. >> it is very straightforward, sicilian cooking at its best. >> we start with some typical things, the kind of things i deeply love, the kind of simple, good things that make me happy. a fritter made from chickpeas, a sweet-and-sour eggplant dish, kind of like ratatouille, but more arabic in influence. white wine produced from a small batch venue made by mary and her husband. >> chickpea flour probably came with the arabs, maybe earlier. chickpeas have been around a long time. >> about as sicilian as it gets. >> internationally known.

>> this is what i have been waiting for. this is what i wanted sicily to be, something to soothe my shattered soul. he does not take much, a bowl of good pasta . in this case, the famous spaghetti [ speaking non- english ]. spaghetti and cuttlefish. also, some [ speaking non- english ], pasta with swordfish, eggplant, and tomato. >> beautiful. perfect. perfect pasta. very happy with that. >> good. i know you have been looking forward to it. >> it is an expensive city for somethings because the consumer is paying more so that the store can afford to pay its extortion money. the big change that has happened is that up until the

mid-80s, late 80s, there were a great many civilians who thought , if they were honest and did not have anything to do with the mafia, they could live without being affected by the mafia. apparently, 80% of the businesses in palermo, and 70% in the rest of italy, that pay extortion. >> that is a lot! >> that is a lot. >> but not everybody pays the bite. a small, but growing coalition of businesses have joined a grassroots organization taking a stand against the mafia's traditional near-total control of the food chain from farm to table. >> i come out of the restaurant business in new york. you got taxed with every laundry order, every time they took your trash away, it was built into all of your basic services. >> here it is the going around christmas and easter, the guy comes by. it is plain and simple extortion. >> even though that is a pretty

simple and straightforward situation, some of these guys that band together, what happens, the guy shows up and says, i'm not paying you, what happens next? >> well, apparently now, the mafia has decided that it is not worth wild bothering with the people that belong to [ speaking non-english ]. there are some the others out there, why look for trouble? how true it is, i don't know. to belong, you have to sign a pledge that you will not pay and if you are approached, you will go to the police. then, they send you to lawyers and to another organization that deals with the people actually having trouble. it is incredibly complicated. there are no easy answers. >> right. >> what about big pharma, some of the things that happen on a much more legitimate level? >> who is more destructive worldwide? yes, you can make a very good argument.

>> i am upset, because i felt as if i am making apologies for the mafia. what has happened, having lived 50 years in sicily, i am much more skeptical that most americans. i don't know-- >> i know what you are saying, a mafia free italy, would they be that much more functional? >> absolutely. >> i am not so sure. [ laughter ] >> i am not sure at all. i am constantly amused by the fact that five years ago, if i said to an american, i live in sicily. >> sicily? how did a nice girl like you end up in a place like that. now it is, on a farm in sicily, how romantic. i envy you! the perception of italy has changed enormously. >> in 2007, there were only 160

members, now over 800. pretty cool considering, we are talking about a group who have demonstrated no regret or hesitation in killing judges, politicians, police, prosecutors. back to catania. when you're talking late-night dining options, you are talking one thing the enticing smell of smoke wafting through the streets, a smell that is enticingly equine. i smell rainbow dash. >> yes, yes! >> anthony and marco, a couple of sicilians and aficionados. >> this is one of the older sides, famous families of mafia that grows in crime organization . yeah, yeah. nowadays, seems

to be like a bit more quiet, because they all get arrested, so they prefer to sell meat against drugs. >> right over there, you can bet on a horse? segment you can bet horses. eat and lose. [ laughter ] the loser goes in the fire. that is a nice pick but. >> cycle of life. [ speaking non-english ] >> whitehorse? where does this tradition come from? >> then we have greeks, 750 years before christ, then we have romans. we have to say that sicilians are pig baskets. we are being conquered by everybody. there are many words understood

by our people. maybe can't understand me, an italian, no. italian language comes from latin. remember this. >> i will never forget. >> the side of the meat is yellow, not white. when it is yellow, that means the horse has been breeding eating fresh grass. [ speaking non-english ] you like taste? >> it is good.

>> a bit sweet. you don't need nothing. it is loved by everybody. [ speaking non-english ] >> antonio, we can have meatballs. >> as you wish, i will try it. >> it is a mix of different things, you know. bread, parmesan cheese, parsley , eggs, and of course horse. >> that is quite tasty. >> let's put it this way, when my daughter asks me for a pony, i am bringing her here, pointing at the grill and staying, there is tony. our smart sleepers get 28 minutes more restful sleep per night. proven quality sleep. only from sleep number. let's try the tissue test. ooof, still yellow. there's toothpaste white and there's crest 3d whitestrips white.

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the 10g network, only from xfinity. one giant leap for mankind. [ speaking non-english ] is a national park. within that is this free range farm. they breed the special heritage pigs there, the blackmore of maroney. a combination of wild, sicilian boar, domesticated swine thought to be brought here from swing spain, this is raising the profile of the pig here. >> this is [ bleep ] everywhere. they can hear the noise of the

car. fantastic. >> like any good tasting, high- quality pig, the secret is largely, what where they said, how did they live? were they happy? >> i am a hunter. i have never seen so many at once. it is like i feel-- >> you should be shooting something? >> yes. >> a poorly fed pig who lives his life in squalor, stress, and fear makes for bad pork. this is why we should treat animals well, not just because it is the nice thing to do, but in makes them provably more delicious. [ speaking non-english ] >> chestnuts, acorns, roots and stuff by the heels, separated

by some grain during the winter months, went wild food is less plentiful. >> they catch you the animal only when it is right. it is a shame that they don't let you shoot. >> i like pigs, not to hang out with, to eat. i don't have a tattoo of a pig or anything, but i like them fine. when given the opportunity to shoot one in the brain or see one shot in the brain, i am down. that is what is called cheering me up from some manic depression . this peak is like polly, you won't see him anymore. even with the brain-dead, the heart still goes on beating, sort of like, take a kardashian. those last two beats of the heart are absolutely necessary to pump all of that red into a bucket. the salt helps keep it from

coagulating prematurely. >> there is a joke there somewhere. kim gets ready for the big day. it's date night at chloe's house. grooming tips from teresa. i've got 1 million of them. let's hope kanye west never has to see this. >> we hang now. >> then, get to work. >> very fast.

>> all of those good bits, the lungs, kidneys, they get cooked slowly in fats, a little garlic, chili, and wine. >> they take the water for the cilantro. >> it is all interior? >> all interior. >> that is a poor coffee. that is pretty. meanwhile, the intestinal casings get filled with blood and gently poached until creamy , bloody delicious. and a nice spread of cured meats, local cheese, and homemade wine. let the party begin. >> so, what do we have here? >> [ speaking non-english ]. >> prosciutto? >> [ speaking non-english ] >> that looks good.

>> this is ricotta cheese. it was just cooking in the oven. the bread, they also have salami and sausages. [ speaking non-english ] >> what do you call these? beautiful. [ speaking non-english ] >> that is good. >> the best moment of the day. >> indeed. >> what do you think about this? >> for me, the ricotta, really good.

>> i think you discover sicily, in aspects of that, i think very few people know. this is incredible. even the bread, she made. >> you think of sicily, you think a family, you think of food, this is more like it. even if it received ppp, and all it takes is eight minutes to get started. then we'll work with you to fill out your forms and submit the application; that easy. and if your business doesn't get paid, we don't get paid. getrefunds.com has helped businesses like yours claim over $2 billion but it's only available for a limited time. go to getrefunds.com, powered by innovation refunds.

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we will stop here for the shrimp. >> catania, the early-morning market. it has been going on for longer than america has had a country. >> do they know you here? you shop here often? >> this is not his first trip to the market by a long shop. his mom is a regular. she comes here almost every day. >> this is a mixed stop. each butcher, more likely they have their own specialty. fresh ingredients, baby lamb, the sausage, hamburger.

normally, it is about six months old. over here. this is the place where she buys the supplies from and the babies. >> this is what the market is best known for, seafood. >> this is one of the biggest resellers we have in the fish market. you can also see the variety. >> we consider the tuna like a pig, we can't throw away anything. we can find only here. >> those are the tiny little clams. >> in sicilian they call them [ speaking non-english ]. you can see, normally still alive.

>> maybe swordfish. >> i am joining them for lunch today. mom is cooking, so we have got to do some shopping. >> you look beautiful. [ speaking non-english ] >> there is shrimp. >> baby sardines. [ speaking non-english ] >> after you. >> what do you want to try? >> sausage. [ speaking non-english ] >> just blood, no onion, no spice, nothing? a little pepper.

you squeeze it? [ speaking non-english ] >> that is good. usually, i don't like to try it playing plaine. i like it in a sauce or spicy. that is good. it looks like hell, taste like heaven. [ laughter ] lowe's knows it's not just what we've got,

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everyone fasten your seatbelts. and here we goooo! ♪ ♪ >> anthony: i don't have any grandparents. my mom, i guess she cooks. but the last time she invited me for dinner it was like 1972. given my dysfunctional kind of history, isn't any mystery why i'm always on the lookout for grandma? anybody's grandma will do. i'm in know those looking for hitchhiking grannies to the object. so they will cook for me. and give it my fragile emotional

state, makes perfect sense that i have dragon to the mom into making me a nice lunch. is that heartwarming or creepy and sad? hey. it smells good in here. >> all right. >> anthony: do you need any help chopping parties? >> perfect. >> anthony: for lunch, we got the shrimp and sardines from earlier in the market. first, this. it is like a hollowed out potato filled with cheese, breaded and fried. delicious. >> we finish it with all the cheese. >> anthony: yes. >> it seals it and then the bread and then fry it. my parents when to the furthest, where my friends are. when we share something

altogether, it is my mother cook for everybody. even if she knows it is only for -- >> anthony: just in case. ♪ this is sicily and this is the classic starter. also, a breaded tomato salad. that is old school. >> that is the bread. and normally we do the bread at least two days old. >> anthony: in right. so it is good, really, really good. that is sicily right there. >> right, yes. >> anthony: fresh shrimp, sautéed garlic, butter, and herbs. every great and enlightened culture when they are confronted with the shrimp or prawn, right

away. >> that is the way you see fresh. >> anthony: yeah. so typical day when you were 15 years old. what did you eat for lunch? >> never missing pasta for lunch. >> anthony: pasta and meat? >> pasta and fish. something locally. you have to go right behind to find their brother. wherever -- whatever we could purchase please produce in sicily, that is what we choose to buy. >> anthony: watch this. who needs one? sardines filleted immediately, sautéed in garlic and oil with a little red pepper. it is a beautiful thing right there. good. the other two hours here, i will be speaking italian or sicilian. yes. you have to eat it. this is very nice. if you don't like this, there is really no hope for you.

[ speaking italian ] >> there's something that you don't like it. tell her it is because she -- >> anthony: it is a delicious meal. to eat in this beautiful home was really good home-cooked food. >> thanks. [ laughter ] ♪ on after generation. tool after tool. again and again. bringing you the broadest and most reliable network of service dealers. always moving forward. we lead. others follow. ♪ ♪

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>> anthony: my last night in sicily and after this, i'm going back to new york, crawling under my bed and adopting the fetal position for 6 weeks, and i have some vegetables? i may look normal, okay, i don't exactly, but i'm not perking uncontrollably or running around streaking with my pants wrapped around my head which is what my instincts are telling me i should be doing. for me, one of christ's great joys is a cheese. no, i'm eating cheese, which makes me happy, always. and drinking wine, good wine. and a helluva lot of it. and i will just make it over the home with any luck at all. >> that is not relevant here. >> you start with the one in the middle. [ laughter ] >> anthony: to re-joins me for a

final meal along with antonio and guido's girlfriend. >> this is a tourist area. this is not a concept that exists in america but it should exist. please explain what it is. >> it is a hotel linked to the territory. to use local product, local recipes. ♪ >> anthony: penne, sun-dried potatoes with tomatoes, zucchini, all from the farm. oh, man, that looks good. >> wow. >> fantastic. >> anthony: some nice rabbit, olive oil also from the farm. wine. i might just make it. this is called -- sweet and bitter. if you talked about italy, it is

the most interesting aspect of italian cuisine. astronomically good. philosophically. it is a philosophical thing. life is too good. i need a little bitterness to remind myself of the internal tragedy. [ laughter ] >> anthony: one final attempt before i go to extract something meaningful on what it means to be sicilian. what is wrong with these people in the north? >> people from the south are coming from these greek street culture. where if you -- in the north, the austrian. and also very -- >> that is the meanest thing someone could say. oh. >> and they figured out that the last century, the three best writers in italy are from sicily. because they consider us just like the way when there are problems.

but finally, they all come here to make -- [ laughter ] it is a good thing for us, you know? >> anthony: in the end, it all comes back to the godfather. we go up this beautiful mou mountain. it is an incredible town. it goes back to the 12th century. there are few places on earth more beautiful. but here we are sitting in one of the -- was like a godfather themepark. >> oh, look at the michael corleone married there. >> with the godfather t-shirt. oh, my god. why people get stuck on this, i don't know shooter, is this big sense of -- >> anthony: michael hoecht many options. he destroyed his family. everything he touched. >> in a way, it is fair. >> anthony: it is fair. >> love. >> anthony: he did not