captures the spirit here. like so much of the food from mexico city, it takes influences from all over the world, transforming it into something uniquely chilango. i'm proud to be part of this great city, but... wow. i don't know if i can ever call myself a chilanga. i think somebody has to anoint me. i think there's a ceremony, and i'm crowned chilanga. but i don't think so. not until i speak better spanish will i be able to be a chilanga. [laughs] ♪ ♪

are you asking? you just stand here in the street and random strangers bringing delicious foods. this is a great country. wow this is beautiful. felt the cool rain show live.

yeah. colombia. ordinarily and for all too many years when this country makes the news or appears in a film or a television drama, it's not for its looks, which are i should say, right up front spectacular. it's not for its people. who are everyone i've ever met anyway. warm proud, generous and fun. or for its food, which is truly great. you know what this is, but it's good fruit in this country. excellent . i'm no stranger to this place

. generally speaking, it's a particularly vibrant mix of spanish european afro caribbean and indigenous people. these are deep waters by friends that no news story or episode of miami vice has ever come close to navigating, er. it is and always has been a fiercely fiercely proud country and its people yearn to see international coverage of something other than cocaine and violence. but that isn't a legacy that's easy to ignore its decades of civil unrest have left vast swaths of colombia relatively unknown even to its own citizens. to reach a place previously considered a no go area of fly out of an airport in villavicencio, 45 miles southeast of the capital city of bogota. on first inspection. this is an airplane boneyard or unwanted props from romancing

the stone corrode artfully, but in reality, this sleepy hangar is an important gateway to the more impenetrable parts of the country. the remote settlements in the amazon basin are cut off from the country, with neither rail nor roads connecting them. there are only two ways in either boat for several days, down river or aboard a jungle bus, which is what locals call the world war two era dc three. flown worse, been brought here by pablo mora, a teacher at medellin university and a particular enthusiast for this classic of golden age. aviation you've taken this flight before . yes every time i have a chance , i come here and fly one. it's a romantic thing. he sees the work that these hulking great airships and their pilots do daredevil humanitarian missions

for the more remote colombians living in flight movie. no no, no, nor first class, either. what? no, no. planes travel with their own mechanic to cobble together anything that might go wrong and stuff can go wrong. the risk is that we'll be able to land but not take off again. so this guy is our return ticket out of the jungle. our captain is joaquin san clemente. something of a legend in these parts and his copilot captain constanza race. it's mystical, you know, and they develop this sensibility with

the plane. there's no intel inside here. there's no software . they have gps, but that's about it. it's beautiful. you know, they have to sense everything. they know what the sound of the plane is not right. it's just man and machine. the weather is the big unknown around here. it's changeable enough to ground planes in remote places if they hang around for too long. we have to make one stop on the way to pick up more cargo, vital cargo by the way.

the land we're passing over is beautiful and lush. but the life for those below has been anything but colombia seems to be trapped in a vicious has used the territory as a haven for kidnapping and drug until recently, most of the news coming out of this part of colombia was not good. it was a front line in the war on drugs for lack of a better term and colombia's long struggle with the farc, a marxist guerilla force financed by drug trafficking, kidnapping and covert assistance from dirty war stakes, not about drugs per se, but about the ability of ordinary colombians to live without fear. we land in the jungle outpost of miraflores in the southern province of guaviare in the amazonian forest reserve. heavy presence of army

and special police is a result of its strategic location and recent history as a one time center of cocoa production. farmers here would grow the stuff and make leaves into paste traffickers would come and buy it. the farc had this area under its sphere of influence for years. nine years ago, the government moved to expel the farc traffickers and any paramilitaries with apparently much success. overnight. however its population shrank by 85% and what remains struggles to survive. people here. you're telling me either were born here? for most of the people came from elsewhere at the beginning in the 19 fifties and sixties, they

were they were escaping from the violence of the political violence between the two parties in colombia, having problems in the city or any wherever you were from. you came out here. yeah, so what did you do for a living out here? cattle and the thing summary culture and after that the drug trade began and everything with the coca plantations in this climate is good for it. yeah it's very good since 1999. there was no police or army force here, so it was just occupied by the farc. and then by the parliament could try to him. yeah so that's when the real violence begin. so really, the problems in this country pre existed the drug trade what we say here is that the drug crazy just made everything work. there's no judge here. there's few institutions here, right? basically you know that the state is here just because the army is here, so i think we're gonna make the major. oh yeah.

yep anthony, this is the major cesar gonzalez is the current mayor of miraflores, which has seen much better and much worse days. how many people live in this town around 1,502,000 in the community polity media player for 20 years and they were the central authority here . if you're running a subsistence farm, growing plantains and not much else, you're not eating particularly well, you're not particularly happy with the government. somebody comes along and offers you nice machine gun and a cool scarf. yeah especially if you're 15 16 years old. that's a pretty attractive of course it is. they say, you'll probably be dead by the time of the 25 come on. it is and they offer you a salary. so what is the future of this town? program. next year. they're providing, um. three

education and that there's a lot of potential in biodiversity and ecotourism as well, people say is without the customer. there's no there's no cocaine trade, and there's no violence. right so if the united states and europe start buying cocaine that's so impossible that i can't think about it about the situation where the demand is not going to be there in the states is down 40% as long as there is a market, there will be people ready to do it. united states spends how many billions of dollars a year paying for guns and uniforms training, etcetera . where should they be spending it? i would say that the help is very important, but more important is to end the war on drugs. it's just it doesn't work. here's my problem. if crack didn't exist, i would have no, i would absolutely agree with you. but as a former co kick addict and as a former

crackhead yeah, that is a problem. the thing is that people think that if you think that drugs should be legalized, you're saying that they're good? no we're not saying that, but just we're just getting rid of one problem. the problem of the major has here up a lot of money that you could divert. we have two programs with you. i agree. one is drug addiction and the other is drug trafficking. we can get rid of one. we're not going to get rid of the other. we have to deal with it. forever it's a beautiful country of the people here have ever been. it's been really nice. even the bad guys charming. yeah that is true. the food is delicious. problem is, the united states will never legalize drugs. it will never happen. complicated issues. yeah so the good people of this town can thank us for bringing in there. yeah. supply of okay. service oh, okay. think nothing of a gentleman who was was really our pleasure. i'm eva

longoria, born and bred in texas with mexican american roots. i don't know if i've ever been this excited to eat anything. i'm exploring mexico to see how the people their lands, and their past have shaped a culinary tradition as diverse as its 32 states. artista equal. longoria searching for mexico tomorrow at nine on cnn. you remembered her favorite binky, right? i forgot the vacation. our top story father has forgotten thinking, capturing hearts. thank you. she only likes the blue one. kia movement that inspires susan with pay com

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young restaurateurs, such as musician turned chef tomas rueda are beginning to make a name for themselves in colombia. what do you say? stop! please. please, please. this is paolo came out one of the biggest markets in bogota. i love this place is very beautiful. the colors my mom come here to buy flowers. my grandma also. did i mention that this city is over? 8000 ft up. hence the altitude sickness. i'm feeling not good. tomas comes here a few times a week for an early breakfast, which i'm hoping will make me feel better. motto market has been running in one form or another since the 19 forties place is huge. want some

juice. do you have i love it, then orange juice with carrot. it's probably the healthiest thing i've had in a while. good for the high, high altitude, no better. i'm feeling better every hour. yeah. first hour is killing me, but you have a better place. i didn't think i was gonna make it out of the airport most of the mornings early in the morning, five or six. in the morning. i climbed the mountain. why? fresh air. okay you have to come with me. hell, no, i ain't happening. you want to taste some arepa? made with corn. hola does put forward he's fantastic. i love it. stop, please. tucked away in the back

quarter of the fish market is a place that serves breakfast to the market's workers and shoppers. we're talking beef short ribs simmered in an oily broth with potatoes, salt and scallions. tomas swears by this stuff, a traditional breakfast soup from the andean region. we are mar-a-lago gracias like chili. do. gracias. yeah now we're talking. this is perfect when you have a good party last night was just gonna say this is hangover food. perfect i know. hangover food well, and this is good. so that's hong comedian there. yeah. good broth. yes, good. so what's this dish called? beef is stuck broth of

rib broth. yes. with potatoes, of course. everything with potato, well known nickel, steel , pappas, christine and active. very good spanish. i don't speak spanish. i speak a little mexican, okay? bogota. back in the nineties, a very dangerous and violent place to be today. not so much today in my repeated experiences here, kind of awesome. candelaria is

the recently renovated old city where i meet up with hector abbad, distinguished author and one of the most important and supremely talented writers in latin america. hector's recent work, a memoir called oblivion is about his father, who was killed for his outspoken attempts to change things for the better. so first of all, where are we to fall? so this is a place where many bogo thanos coming to eat something in the middle of the morning or in the middle of the afternoon. tamales here are made with chicken and pork belly combined with vegetables, rice and masa wrapped in a banana leaf and slow cooked for hours. this place has been serving chocolate completo to the politicians of nearby plaza bolivar for a couple of 100 years. um here are the tamales. it's beautiful. it is a thing of beauty, isn't it? let's see if it is like my

mother's i. that's a high standard. i suppose it is not i was just a miller florence yesterday. yes economy there was was entirely drug based economy . i mean, now the drugs are gone. there is no economy. it's a ghost talent, military and people sitting there staring at the space waiting for the beer to arrive best. i can understand. tell me something hopeful. i think we are. becoming more and more conscious. that this. past decades of violence have been absolutely useless. and that we have to change many, many, many things. hmm um so. i think it's not as good as my mother's. i'm sorry. well it never is. if you removed cocaine from the equation if you removed the drug trade as a financial engine you would still have serious

divisions. over ideology here. is that improving? things are changing in a good direction, but very slowly. i think you know, 10 years ago in medellin. they killed 7500 people every year and three years ago, this number came to 700 people killed in that scene in the year, so the situation changed right. i have only questions. i have no answers. and so sorry if i were the president i really i don't know what to do. you wouldn't know what to do. i wouldn't. i wouldn't to suggest that a nation should expand its social services do its best to lift people out of poverty to provide medical care for everyone. as you well know that made you in the minds of many. as the same as a communist are those is as

dangerous and potentially deadly ideas as they used to be. well 25 years ago. my father was killed just because he was asking. for this basic things like clean water. a glass of milk. and an arepa for every child. that was, we still don't have that and we need that now. we in colombia. maybe we're trying. i think there are some people here even in the government who are working for that. lois knows you never come in for just one thing to know a lot of things about a lot of things like, what makes you loan thrive , pink color and one code and the dishwasher that handles all the dirty work. you got this and we got you. most name brand bars and body washes. you rub on your

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make on time payments. cf 30 point bump in their credit score, on average, download the app today. i'm bill. we're in antarctica, and this is cnn. bogota is the largest city in colombia and the economic heart of the country about 1/5 of the population lives here, many of them very well, but some not so well. it's a city with a marked north south divide tomas waiters , tabula and donostia restaurants sit side by side in the macarena neighborhood where the city center meets the north. the lunch. thomas is serving us here at tabbouleh is defined

more by high quality fundamentals than by high concept theories. if there's a theme here, it's that ingredients this good, meticulously prepared are the essence of great eating. it's a beautiful space. so how's the restaurant business in bogota is a very good business. lot of people with money. they don't know how to cook. nobody cooks at home. maybe their cook. does they eat out a lot? it's a new part of our culture. everybody wants to go to restaurants so 10 years ago, 15 years ago what traditional casual food, few fine dining, you know, white tablecloths serving what french or continental or italian, but this is new. it's a new stuff. it's a new business. it's a new world. the two great values from columbia food mixtures of the culture. yeah right people, indian people, white people,

that mixture is beautiful, and the other one is all of this region of the mountains from the valleys of the rivers or the sea . we are like a big farm, a beautiful farm. to send all these products to the world. i believe more in a in a beautiful carrot than a great recipe. yeah, right. this one is a crab salad. right? one shot home made pasta. then sheets of handmade pasta are filled with labneh cheese and finished with a chorizo sauce. hmm. so you used to be in a band used to be a musician. i'm still still so what happened, man? how did you go from music to restaurants and roll? don't give me money. good it's good. yeah it's really good . it's great. that business is good. because, generally speaking the only worse idea

that i think i'll try to make a living making music is i think i'll make a living like opening a restaurant. i see why that's so popular. good stuff. thank you, tony tomassi. take on asa beco uses beef shank instead of veal, which is braised overnight with vegetables, wine and broth in a wood fired oven. whoa it's gonna it's huge. yes equipped. l yeah. you don't need a knife. only with the spoon. you're right. i told you. mm hmm. how do you do you wear this first insult or no. dry it salt it now this fresh, you know, the delicious so you never

get this off your menu. you'll have to keep this on your menu forever, right forever. oh passport, mama didn't raise no fool. people. santiago de cali or just cali. as everybody calls it in these parts is a city in the southwest of colombia, known for its proximity to the pacific coast and its semitropical temperatures. but i'm not really here for the climate. i'm here for tejo. evolves alcohol and explosives. colombian mario galino, ex pat will holland and their band mates are to be my guide to this ancient and traditional colombian sport. how

do you play this game? i guess that's how it's done. what do you call this object? to the name of the exactly? should be good at this. i mean, throwing pots into the dish sink from across the room for years. you win more points if you get in the middle without hitting them. wow yeah, that doesn't sound like any fun. how do you. everyone has a different style. it seems so you've got to do like one step, and then another and swing. yeah. that style is gonna work for me. after some

early success, it turns out we all pretty much suck at this. not enough beer. that's my problem. time to bring in some outside muscle. we're going to mix in now, the experts doors i with me. i'm over here with these guys. 11. holy crap. two in a row. this is dismayed. oh, no, wait of one of those guys had to be on my team, right? the guy in the white stripey shirt. his name is joe we at home, which is the old chicken chicken. do i need a poultry

name. he's calling himself the old chicken. i should be the enormous. chicken dude is killing it. yeah, he's every time. most be chicken. that's what i'm talking about. yeah. but i wanted something to blow up is hungry work. but the kitchen here is up to the challenge making a colombian picado. this is a huge selection of fried pork, pork, rib steak, cassava, potatoes and deep fried plantain. they smell food. oh, oh, thank you. that's good. beer explosives. and food can't beat

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, so whenever the moment happens , you're ready. roman ready. okay everyone. our mission is complete. balanced nutrition together, we provide nutrients to support immune, muscle bone and heart health, 25 vitamins and minerals and ensure complete with 30 g of protein. good morning, everyone we do begin with breaking news. joining us now are two lawmakers from different sides of the aisle also live in ukraine. i'm dr also live in ukraine. i'm dr sanjay gupta ♪♪ alex! mateo, hey how's business? great. you know that loan has really worked wonders. that's what u.s. bank is for. and you're growing in california? -yup, socal, norcal... -monterey? -all day. -a branch in ventura? that's for sure-ah. atms in fresno? fres-yes. encinitas? yes, indeed-us. anaheim? big time. more guacamole? i'm on a roll-ay. how about you? i'm just visiting.

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heart. cali is its shaking hips , people here like their music. nobody's mario and will the founders of a collective called on the tropical. their idea was to reinterpret the tropical music heritage of colombia. what often sounds like salsa in style is actually cumbia. there's one type of music that could be classified as distinctly colombian. this is it. three more draws on the music of the african indigenous and european mix that makes up the country. so will and mario created something a long way from the pop music that's a staple here. they brought together musicians

who've been famous on the cumbia seen in the fifties and sixties and matched them up with younger counterparts. the impressive amount of fried meat we ate at the tejo courts wasn't enough. we go for dinner at one of the band's favorite spots recording that we made, which we did for three weeks in medellin had 42 musicians. so it was a big sort of ensemble. and there were musicians. from what i think the youngest was 25. maybe in the oldest was 82. old school and new school mix is that oversimplification so we can meet not only doing music but like also exchanging lots of like information about how music was made. how music was recorded the spirit of the music, so that's the idea is to get back to the roots. first up the cali version of ceviche. cooked shrimp lathered in mayonnaise, catch up and worcestershire sauce, essentially a seventies shrimp cocktail. from where.

native to the mangroves of the pacific coast. mollusc is a staple used in everything from tamales to stews. rice and like to the mollusks, clam. ah! it's like a rock mollison pretty much . it's delicious. wusa. okay, so . so this is like palau specifically from the pacific pargo rojo like red snapper, steamed shrimp. very cool. and some nice green tomatoes. you always find them. corners everywhere is plantain like an o. with all of this food you have to accompany with some beaches. i'm learning that it's the best way to just handle this

from cane, sugar cane sugar like homemade rural fire water, so i'm just gonna take one right now. but so what? what are your favorite places in colombia? colombia is like five countries in one. when you come to colombia, you definitely have to go to some pacific experience either would be in cali or go straight to the coast. you have to have like kind of plant iq or caribbean experience. three or so you definitely have to have like a mountain experience, which would be like metal gene or bogota. right? another would be like, just go to the amazon, you know, like, let's go to the jungle and just check out what's going on there. so i'm planning a vacation. should i come to colombia? should i come to cali? most definitely, man like you will find great music. great party great food. beautiful views. beautiful nature around. look the country's beautiful we know this. okay but most americans they're afraid to come. is colombia any more dangerous for a tourist and then real or, uh, puerto rico or

south central? my impression is no. you know, when you go to rio, you don't wear a big watch. you don't wear an expensive suit. you don't you don't behave like an idiot. and life is going to be good. like maybe i've been lucky, but i've never been mugged. or kidnapped or robbed. most people tell you that we had an amazing time we heard some great music. we met some beautiful girls or guys. uh we drank some great drinks and we just hang out and we went to the beach and we it was great and we want to come back, you know, i mean, there's a lot of heart here. people feel very, very deeply. yeah things it is the most welcoming country in latin america that i've been. salute salute, salute salute. good morning, everyone we do begin with breaking news this morning. i want to give you a

sense of what it looks like to you and your team on the ground pressing for answers. it's really important. joining us now are two lawmakers from different sides of the aisle live in ukraine. this is what climate scientists have been warning us about these volunteers. they say we couldn't have just sat at home. i'm doctor sanjay gupta award palestinian. from early birds tonight hours. so many ways to save life ready wallet happy that's 3 65 by whole foods market, introducing pro allergy now available without a prescription was the first and only 24 hours. steroid free. sprint takes hours starts working in 30 minutes. so you can go and go. are you sure our homes gonna sell? watch this.

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know. they tell you why we employ more than 2000 workers at our factory in virginia beach, and why over 10,000 local steel dealers are putting battery power in the hands of americans. not everyone can say that, but we can made in america. real steel find yours closed captioning brought to you by meso book .com. we offer a free book on mesothelioma call for the free book and receive so much more call 1 808 31 37 100. mhm. i leave the subtropics for more extreme climbs. kwacha is a city 600 miles northeast of cali on colombia's caribbean sea era

is the most northern part of south america and borders venezuela in the east. it's home to the native semi nomadic people of colombia called the y you why you are a tough autonomous tribe, who never taken sides with either the government, the farc or the paramilitaries. as a result, they remain independent politically and live pretty much by their own code. i'm eating one. pablo mayorga, a chef from bogota, who comes to this spot on a regular basis. this is not another country. this is columbia. but but it's a very different particle of being a heater is a very rugged terrain beds desert. there's not that much water. so that's part of why the spaniards, they weren't able to colonize them. coming here for some time, i became very interested in wahida because i began dealing with fresh fish and fresh lobster,

fresh shrimp and for vote meat to take back to a couple bowater . good it's very good. goats are important to the y you as they're used for food for bartering and even as dowry payments, rancho owners come to the old market in rio, watch to sell slaughter and cook goat in the mornings. today we're having fritchey traditional. this from the y. u s consists of the tribes, the heart the intestines in the oval. the goat. so it's pretty fresh because they slaughter them back here. uh huh . this is where the what you women cooking, so this is really fresh and traditional. this is breakfast. this is breakfast for them. the ricci comes. and it's

a little bit of everything in there we have hearts. we have a little bit of meat of ribs. okay now it's interesting because this one is for breakfast, and it's almost done where they're slaughtered. they have to eat this fresh. freshness is delicious. not fresh. this would not be so i got no this is where i say something that takes us seamlessly from a discussion about fresh meat to me hauling my aging carcass on a tv sugar bear style. tribal members of the y you have dual citizenship and can cross the border into venezuela to live or trade there whenever they need to. luckily for us, it means that cheap gas is easy to come by. in these parts. there are no stations. as such, you just keep an eye out for the cans. most of these guys

are news from venezuela. it's extremely cheap. i think it's like, um 50 cents a gallon. the government subsidizes a lot of it. they're able to buy venezuelan gasoline and still legally. venezuelan gasoline in colombia, having taken on as much gas as can be mouth siphoned in one sitting, we're off again. let me set the scene. it's hot out here desert hot and we plan to ride three hours along the coast to our lunch spot. and i ate salty goat innards for breakfast, and i refuse to wear a helmet or sunblock. we avoid wild donkeys and goats and get lost more than a few times. so a little heatstroke leads to a lot of horsing around and we decide to open these puppies up.

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who will join your team from home with her home, not yours. expand your team with a fiber freelancer. good morning, everyone we do begin with breaking news this morning. momentary concussion is seldom a good thing waking up in colombia on a beach almost always is.

having abandoned the epic ride. we're back where we started at my apollo era, the blue sea restaurant. how come you're all clean? changed you brought a change of clothes? yes i'm hurting nothing. i'm feeling every minute every hour every month and year of my age. so you ready for some, consuelo? yes that i trust it will make me feel all much better. it's a good end to you can't ask for better scenery beautiful here a beer. no ceremony need the anesthetic qualities of the local firewater. probably a really good idea. that's going to be a good start for the night. good start. i'm done. oh man, that dog has the right idea. see i would be very happy if that was me right now laying down in the sand and chin out like that. man. it's so

beautiful here who comes here? basically tourists from colombia and backpackers. that are making their way up to the northern wahida. but i mean, we saw one tourist all day. it's nice. you could really just get completely off the grid. you used to be a fisherman village. there are definitely worst places to eat seafood than beachside in a fishing village and the strength of this stupid as well as the mariscos lies in the variety of fish available. basically like a fish chowder with shrimp clams right, which is a small kind of clam lobster. fish yeah, i need a bad, very clear sky for the caribbean. oh, yeah. oh man, accompanied by lemon. coconut rice and plantain, some hot sauce in there. well, let's look

at the ready. some good food. you shots of aguardiente the sounds of waves in the background. a nice sunset. these are things in my experience that will set most things right? thank you to guajira. what he did in colombia salute cheers. we had good fun. we had good fun. cheers. i always find colombia encouraging. they face problems more extreme and seemingly more intractable than many of us can imagine. and yet, every time i come here, it gets better. don't

get me wrong. problems serious problems remain, which is particularly heartbreaking in a country so beautiful, so generous, so proud. so eager to love and be loved back. i come back to my own country from colombia, and i think if they can fix that, if they can make things better then surely there's nothing we can do. for now, however, i'll settle for fixing my headache die hurt.