cnn's july 4th special returns with an all-star lineup . celebrate with spectacular fireworks and the biggest musical performances do not miss cnn's, the fourth in america, live at seven p.m. eastern only on cnn. >> thank you for joining me and i am paula reid. i will see you tomorrow night starting a at 5:00 eastern. anthony bourdain, parts s unkno is thehe next. the south is not a monololith. there are pockets of weirdness,

awesomeness, and then there's charleston. the south is not important h . there are pockets of weirdness, awesomeness and then there is charleston. for some time now important things have been happening with food, a lot of them having to do with this guy. ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ >> [ music ] la la la la la

what are we drinking? beer? harder stuff? what's going on? i usually go with a budweiser and a jagermeister. budweiser and jagermeister. >> what are we drinking? beer, hard stuff? what's going on? >> i usually go with budweiser and yeager meister. >> any notion of going local right out the window. >> chairs. >> the first one is never good. the first one is never good. it gets easier after the first one. >> this is not my first time to charleston, as you know. i did a show here before and i

am still taking heat about it and apparently i really upped the first time i came here. i made a number of errors, apparently none more egregious than doing and oyster roast and drinking champagne. >> champagne and beer is okay. >> they must have gotten confused. >> i got it wrong and this time i am getting it right. >> you can be forgiven for underestimating sean brock the first time you meet him, i know i did i saw a scruffy looking dude in a trucker cap who always had a bottle of really good bourbon on hand. >> this is 1991, 18 years old. this was the end of great whiskey.

it did not come in this bottle, this is my travel bottle, it is plastic so it does not break when you get rowdy. >> it took me time to discover the ferocious intellect, the nature, then uniquely focused and purposeful talents of the man, without a doubt one of america's most important chefs. a guy who is redefining not just what southern cooking was and could be but american cooking as a whole. is the waffle house universally awesome? >> we are going to talk a forl about this about the notions of the universal awesomeness. is the waffle house universally

awesome? >> we have one choice for late- night eating and it is the waffle house. no matter how blitzed you are or how normal you are, you are welcome and treated equally. with an experience, not just like eating a plate of food that's like >> you are talking magical spiritual place. >> it is beyond magical and spiritual. >> it is indeed marvelous. and irony free zone where everything is beautiful and nothing hurts, where everybody regardless of race, creed, color or degree of any notion is welcome it it is a beacon of hope and salvation inviting the hungry, the lost, the seriously hammered all across the sout to come inside. a place of fety and nourishment.

it never closes, it islways faithful, always there for you. >> when i was a kid i was obsessed with this place and i wanted to be a chef or this was the only place i had ever been to where i could watch people cook. this was action. i would see these people cooking at a pace and people were completely out of control but they were still providing hospitality. it really helped me fall in love with cooking. >> i am, unbelievably, despite of my travels, new to the waffle house and unfamiliar with the ways. the terminology is new to me. >> i am looking at my hash brown and i am confused and enticed. >> you cannot go all in. >> i need to make a choice. >> when you find your balance you memorize it.

>> that means i gather scattered on the griddle heaped with onions, cheese and hickory smoked ham. >> i have been doing that since day one, i did not even know what that means. >> i do not want waffles at the waffle house. >> you have to have pecan waffle. what i have devised as a chef is a tasty menu experience where you can really experience what this place does and you start out, the first thing you have is pecan waffles. ming in syrup mogenized vegetabl mogenized vegetabl >> thee pecan waffle.oil. >> you just slather it. >> i just want it to be swimming and syrup.

>> that is good. >> you do not come here expecting, you come here expecting something amazing. >> this is better than french laundry. >> the second course, patty melt split. come on. that's not insanely delicious. oh, goddamn. cious? >> patty melt. come on, isn't that insanely delicious? and then green salad with thousand island dressing is amazing. would you rather have been cut pork chops or t-bone wax >> i would like both.

one of the more complex sauces. -what? -in the american repertoire. really? you want to talk shit about it. this is saucework. nge your life. >> heinz 57 is the best, one of the more complex sauces. >> really? >> this is sauce work. this will change your life. >> that is wrong. >> a brilliant human being had a recipe that is amazing and it got a bad rap. >> you sound like ronald mcdonald. he had a good idea. you are wrong, i am sorry. here is where we part ways, my friend. here is my sauce. >> after a few bites of waffle,

berger, a hunk of t-bone and a few hashbrowns, one feels drawn right to the center of what makes our country great. the moment that drives me to clamber up and start reciting walt whitman, the star-spangled banner who says, oh say can you see? i doubt, i would be the first. >> do you know what that means in japanese? actually? the literal translation. it means, in japanese, it literally means i will. >> [ laughter ]

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everybody needs a place. a community. something larger than one's self to care about. >>to hid> everybody needs a pla community, something larger than oneself to care about or be part of. a place to hide when times get tough, where you are accepted for who you are, for the rhythms of the summer afternoon, the crack of a bat, the roar of the crowd or music. behold the mighty charleston river dogs, the minor-league feeder team for the new york yankees.

meet one of the owners of the charleston river dogs, charleston resident bill murray. >> i am going to take stock and. >> we will see how fast we can go around the outfield. >> today the river dogs are facing the evil forces of the dreaded savannah sandman. >> that is going to score a run and that will leave a mark. we better hold them bad day for the sandman's. >> it has almost no backbone no skeletal structure. we knew we'd be coming here. husk. >> as difficult as it might have been to forgo the joys of the bacon wrapped foot-long

corn dog known as a pig on a stick, we knew we would be coming here. husk. the restaurant in downtown charleston, one of two that helped to make the city of fine dining destination. >> southern living is very different up there and down here. >> it is a big transition. >> easy for you or not? >> driving was the real transition. i drive like a new york person and when you come here driving like new york it takes you a while to recover. i am right on the edge telling people this is the nice place to come and i really do not want anyone else to come. i like how it is, there are a lot of insects, it is really hot and the traffic is worse than it ever was. >> husk addresses southern convention using modern techniques but always

respecting the originals and who made them. >> it is a pressing matter. if i were, i would make it a personal mission. as a northerner, why should northerners care? >> if you look at the history of food in america, there is no denying that southern food is the first true cuisine that had this foundation. that is important to preserve. it goes back to the idea that it should be cooking and preserving and celebrating food of your grandmother. >> people take real pride in your ability, my aunts recipe, my grandma's recipe. the standard here is so high, when i go around anyplace i just go ehh.

>> country ham, bread butter and pickles and of course sean b and sean there will be bourbon. >> i try not to eke out too much, this is a very special breed that came over here in the 1500s, the spaniards brought it. it has a particular flavor. this one has aged three years. >> this is ridiculously good. this is the best american ham i have ever had. >> these are my two favorite things. so this is an old dish that i dug up in one of those old books that i study. oyster pie. >> this is an old dish that i dug up at one of those old books that i study, it is a old- fashioned oyster pie. just grab

your spoon and dig all the way down, the oysters are in the bottom. >> how old is this recipe? >> it was well documented in the 19 century, pre-civil war. >> this is good. >> shrimp and grits is the dish of charleston. this is the dish i craved when i leave charleston and come back. this is one of the older ones where we make hominy first. it will taste a little different. >> yes. that is really great looking. >> we make a brown gravy which is the most classic way. >> do you have grannies coming in saying i have not tasted this since i was a kid? >> exactly. >> that is good.

provides you in a time when good ingredients weren't available, >> we were trying to replicate the emotion that southern food provides you at a time when good ingredients were not available. we made up with tasteless ingredients by frying them and dumping butter on them. now we do not have to. wow, what's going on here? this is an onslaught of awesomeness here. [murray] we didn't order this. so pit beans that is been cooking over the fire all day. >> what is going on here x this is an onslaught of awesomeness? >> pit beams have been cooking

over the fire all day, these came from west africa, this is the original carolina gold rise , hand harvested, nobody eats this in restaurants, everyone eats it at home with spring vegetables. and the suckling pig is the same breed that we had earlier mixed with, cooked on a spit with cream corn and cornbread. >> this will be my first your foot. >> this is my favorite way to eat, family-style, past things around. >> that rises amazing. for me, it's chili's. >> you see bubblegum, do you get angry? >> i am very angry.

>> for me it is chili's. you see it along the mexican border. i thought do we have a shortage of mexicans in this part of the country? your eating at chili's? i really want to pull up the car and get a tire iron and walk-in. >> clean house, roadhouse style. >> roadhouse, vastly underrated film. >> you guys are into roadhouse? >> it is a great film. he is crazy what else you need to know? you can deconstruct the film forever the more you watch it the more mysteries. >> i have never seen anyone enjoy roadhouse more than i do. >> my friends wife, kelly lynn, place the doctor that stitches in a. she is the romantic interest. the unattainable romantic interest.

i have, for the last 25 years called his home in the middle of the night and said, you don't know me, but year wife is getting slammed up against the wall by patrick swayze. she is not putting up much of a fight. and then hang up. it is, in many ways, a perfect film. >> that's the whiskey talking. i'm sholeh, and i lost 75 pounds with golo. i went from a size 20 to a size 6.

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what is down-home southern cooking? where did it come from? who's responsible? asking those kinds >> of question> what is down-ho cooking? where did it come from? who is responsible? it is useful when asking those types of questions wherever you are to ask, first, who did the cooking in the beginning? where did they come from? >> when you meet people here,

you are seeing a direct descendent, a slave after the slaves were free. >> ashley grew up on miskito beach. her mother owns the property which has been in her family for generations. fact of the matter is an old south with the dishes and flavors of southern cooking, which is to say american cooking as opposed to european, chances are the food was grown, gathered, produced, and prepared by african slaves. chef bj dennis has made it a personal mission to protect the culinary traditions that his ancestors passed on to him. >> this is local blue crab that is fresh in season. this is garlic crab and shrimp butter. you have the play of this into the cuisine.

>> the flavors and textures of west africa are all over southern cooking and there are few better places to see how short the line between there and here then than all a culture. >> i am enjoying this. >> how african is traditional gola cooking. >> you change the location but you did not change to the people were. you did not change their traditions. >> looking at the history of american food, you will quickly see this is one of the first true cuisines of america. >> what is this? >> softshell crabs and conch in a west african inflicted peanut soup with carolina rice, sautced squash and zucchini. >> that is so good.

>> correct me if i am wrong, there is a different kind of menu in charleston then it 20 years ago. is something happening here x what has changed? >> it is good, to have a more diverse community, but then we also lose a bit. >> the danger is they are coming to charleston because of the beauty and we are having to fight against bigger entities that seem to get the land so that they can develop it. we are fighting to keep what has been hours. it is important for us to preserve this area. preserve this culture for generations to come. s have discovered we like our food heavily salted. just add water and two of your own fresh eggs. >> according to the u.s. government, almost 50% of all r

children in this country failed to get the recommended daily allowance. >> we like our food heavily salted. >> just add water and two fresh eggs. >> because of innovations and farm chemicals and machinery -- >> how did it happen that we ended up with southern food being so cruelly hijacked into this cartoonish parody of its self? >> i think it is a combination of two massive cultural influences that came together at the same time. the idea of industrialization came late to the south, when it hit we got, the first nutrition laws in america were written in south carolina because everyone moved into mill villages and immediately started process food because they were not growing food anymore.

the second thing that happened is there was a massive amount of expertise that was lost during the civil war. >> a lot of the southern revival turnaround started with this guy, glenn roberts. a man who asked a simple question, how come grits are not as good as they used to be? by starting the company anson mills decided to do something about it. >> why do something as unwanted ? meaning no one was crying that we need rice to taste like it did in 1837. we need better grits. what called to you that you felt compelled to answer? >> i am a cuisine horror. i think that culture is interactive with cuisine. as soon as you look at cuisine you are looking up politics, you're looking at medicine, you are looking at advanced thinking. >> i agree there is nothing more political than food.

>> reporter: his restaurant, fig , was one of the first and most important on the charleston scene, determined to source local products that you used to find everywhere. as much as i would like to illustrate solid grounding and traditional ingredients with my order, i could not resist the soft sell crabs which are in season with pasta and shaved. which i would slit my best friends broke for. that is beautiful. >> when you had your first forkful of proper rice, was there an instinct to go out and bludgeon the rest of the world? >> i did not run up and down the streets of charleston. it was tough to dislodge people here. i just went straight to san francisco and i gave away tons of product. guess what, they went crazy. >> slow baked black bass, anson

mills, ramps in season and. and to all things glenn is responsible for bringing back heirloom rice and peas, suckling pig and chicken coffee with carolina gold rice. >> that is good. >> this is phenomenal. >> i am hitting the rise next. >> that has the entire history of southern agriculture in it great right there. this whole idea of having a sensory in addition, none of the stuff was here 20 years ago. >> through the end of the civil war, during general sherman's scorched earth campaign, seed stores were a target. african slaves were able to save the seeds that glenn can locate and reintroduce. >> it is those people who kept the corn. it is those people who kept the

keys and kept the vegetables because they could not buy their way out of not doing it. >> americans in the north do not embrace those classics from the south. it is a overlay of pain and depression that goes with it. where how do we combat that? >> you are speaking about walking away from your culinary heritage because of social sensitivity. if you want something that is compelling that draws on your soul, this is why they call it soul food. with the freestyle libre 2 system know your glucose level and where it's headed without fingersticks. manage your diabetes with more confidence and lower your a1c. it's covered by medicare for those who qualify. ask your doctor about the freestyle libre 2 system.

♪♪ alex! mateo, hey how's business? great. you know that loan has really worked wonders. that's what u.s. bank is for. and you're growing in california? -yup, socal, norcal... -monterey? -all day. -a branch in ventura? that's for sure-ah. atms in fresno? fres-yes. encinitas? yes, indeed-us. anaheim? big time. more guacamole? i'm on a roll-ay. how about you? i'm just visiting. u.s. bank. ranked #1 in customer satisfaction with retail banking in california by j.d. power. i need the finest in turkey-killing couture.

i want to be ninja-like and i want to look cool. camouflage is the standard go out wearing south carolina, so-- i need the finest and turkey killing court tour. i want to be ninja like and cool. >> camouflage is the standard wearing south carolina. >> i am bringing that look to new york. >> a cool clear morning and i do what any sensible charlestonian would do on a day like this, look for turkeys to kill. >> you know, in south carolina, the state bird is the mosquito. >> you want to be covered head to toe. >> next time you need to cover up your face. >> i'm going in a waffle house wearing this. this is totally me. >> we do have some turkey vest. >> yes.

this is your last day on earth mr. turkey. you will die now. prepared to meet your maker. >> here is the thing about hunting, the likelihood of me successfully shooting the stupidest animal on cameras about the same as donald trump being gracious to anybody or adam sandler making a good movie, basically a magical unicorn will land in front of me and showered me with candy before i shoot a turkey on camera. that shot you heard was me shooting a producer in the calf and telling him to hobble to the piggly wiggly for a frozen gobbler before he bleeds out. and like magic, behold, turkey.

slow barbecue turkey with all the sides you want and need. >> what have we going on here? >> pigs feet and collard greens. >> yes. >> and barbecued coleslaw, potato salad with ramps. baked peas. >> there is my weakness. >> we made special -- >> mac & cheese. i love bright orange mac & cheese. that is a turkey. >> let that be a lesson to you. >> mike from fig is here and jeff allen owner of rebellion farm. >> how many others are there like you guys who basically are keeping it real as far as real culinary traditions? >> everyone here is. >> how many people is that? >> 12. >> in a town like this, that is

amazing. >> this is good. this is ridiculously good. >> people who say they do not like turkey need to eat this. >> it is one of those distinctly american mutations, kind of like rock 'n roll or jazz or blues. >> there is really nothing like it in america. it has been unique since the early part of the 18th century and the city works hard to preserve that. we have an incredibly gorgeous city that people want to visit. >> the clientele definitely gives us the opportunity to be this progressive. >> it almost pushes us to be more than we can be. >> we have a active cuisine and we have recovered these ingredients and we discovered the agricultural influence that were destroyed in the 20th century, but we are not just re- creating history, we are not

just going back and cooking the civil war, we are pushing it forward. >> it has to be a happy day when you see this on the menu forever. i think i will get more mac & cheese in a minute.

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to go and pick those fish up. >> loo> we are one of the last hunters in the world. >> there is no store offshore for us to pick up the fish. we have to go find them. we are the last of the final frontier of hunters, to go and feed the world. that is what we do. >> mark has been a fisherman since the 70s. he takes an unusual and much- needed approach to catching fish. instead of breaking the sea over the mindless populace species, he promotes the just as good and usually better less known and underutilized stuff. >> one of the great things about the lowcountry is the waterways. that was not represented properly in the restaurants. then i hear about this guy who has the most beautiful fish you

have ever seen but you have to go to the doc and get it? >> frustrated by the conventional wisdom and the handling of fish by other distributors and the narrow range on the market, he became his own dealer starting abundant seafood, one of the country's first community support fisheries. he has changed the way people think about so-called trash fish . >> look at how beautiful that is. >> today's catch, triggerfish. >> any market for this? >> we cannot keep it in-house. >> the crazy thing is, even five years ago there was not a single one of these on the menu. everyone had the same crap on the menu, tuna, salmon, snapper, it is delicious but we have overfished it. mark taught all of us the beauty of this. it's sort of basting itself.

it makes, like, a cup. it's very creole. is there something out there that you're seeing that's still >> this is a halfshell style, you leave the scale on and the skin on and cook it. >> it is tasting itself. >> yes. it is very creole. >> is there something that you are seeing that is a hard sell? >> amberjack. >> japanese love it. that is pretty and it smells good. >> i could eat that 365 days a year. that is good. this great barbecue in the south. it's 99% terrible barbecue. and so to get real barbecue, you got to drive. >> everybody thinks there is all this great barbecue in the south, it is 99% terrible

barbecue. to get real barbecue you have to drive. >> way out in the weeds, off the main road and good freaking luck if you can find it, it is one of the most respected barbecue joints in the usa, one run by one of the most respected old-school pit masters. ask a chef or anybody who knows good barbecue and they will tell you where to go. here, a rundown looking takeout about two hours drive out of charleston and hemingway, south carolina. >> how long have you been doing this? >> since i was 11. my family started in 1972 so

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