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>> i am so confused.ere in i it wasn't supposed to be likebyo this. of all thetal strang places of e countries all the years of traveling, it's here in iran, traveling, it's here in iran, that i'm greeted most warmly by tota l strangers. tota l strangers. the other stuff it's there many the iran we've read about, heard about, seen in the news. but this? this i wasn't prepared for.ing o [♪ singing ♪ ]od

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ like a l >> thank you. good to be here finally. it's taken some time.

like a lot of time. it 'strying, finally. 'strying, finally. tehran. to see capital of iran. >> t neighborhoods of rome this feels like. after all this time i finally every i'd heard so much about. >> weather is nice here. i don't know what i was expecting but it's nice. >> a big blank spot on nearly every trailer's resume. -- traveler's resume. -- traveler's resume. [ humming ]. >> once upon a time there was an ancient kingdom where they found a lot of magical black stufflacu under the ground.people

bu ot two other kingdoms had the key to the magical black stuffte and when they wouldn't share, the people of the ancient kingdom got mad. kingdom got mad. they voted, and their leader said the magical black stuff is ours to keep. but the other kingdoms were afraid of losing all of the magical black stuff. anothe so they gave money to some bad men to get rid of the leader. wa they put bac gk in power anotheo leader. and theyhe could gave him money. to some, he was a good king. kim but to others, he could be very but to others, he could be very cruel. after many years the people of the kingdom got mad. this time, even madder. so they scared the king away forever.hony: ok and then things started to get really messed up. bu

>>t okay, that's a simplistic d incomplete way to sum up thestar last 100 odd years of iranian history. but the point is there were a o lot ofok issues and differing agendas leading up to the. bush n of rage known as the iranian hostage crisis. iranian hostage crisis. we kno done w what iran the government we kno done does. george w. bush famously called them part of the axis of evil. done american soldiers real harm. harm. there is no doubt about this.o. but i hope i could be forgivenun finding these undeniable truths, how we are treated on the streets everywhere we go. so forget about the politics if you can for a moment. how about the food? the food here is amazing.

chelo kebab the nearest thing chelo kebab the nearest thing you get to, ground spices a goo? place to start. >> so what do you guys do for a living? >> i export not. >> an exploding scene here. >> every country has three >> r westerign culture, iranian and islamic culture. it has changed a lot during the it has changed a lot during the last decades. the actual. i would recommend you to try this one and this one. and this one. >> okay. >> why not? (laughing)woul.ve eve >>r cello ceb an cello t without rice. >> you should take the butter

and put it on your rice. bon apetit. was a >> h bon apetit. it's good! it was a hopeful time when i arrived in iran. [speaking foreign language] ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> but there's a push happening between opposing factions in the government. on one hand iranians are the

descendants of ancient persia,lc and impyre of the high will you and impyre of the high will you influential culture that goesio. back thousands of years. but the ruling clerical andresti military classct are at best ayl ambivalent at worst actively hostile to much of that tradition. severe religious based express expressions of speech dress behavior were issued into the ayatollah during the 1979 islamic revolution. [speaking foreign language] ♪ ♪ ♪

[♪ singing ♪ ] >> so how does one have fun in iran these days? this is a line that is constantly being tested. alcohol is of course forbidden. you can get away with listening to rocvik or rap, sort of. sometimes. but you cannot yourself rock or be seen to visibly rock. thought everyone in iran is delighted with what their have b

revolution but even insinuatingy discould s discontinual tent can have people have is dpeard into the maw of the national security th. system . >> we are in the northern most land of iran. up here in dirvan it gets ready steep. >> a kebab and kind of unwind. kebab and kind of unwind. [ screaming ]

>> as print journalists, our job ofth easy. because there's so much to write about. u know fron? the difficult part is convincing people on the other side of the worldid that what we're telling you we're seeing in tront of our eyes is actually there.le hav eyes is actually there.le hav when youe walk down street you see a different side of things. people are proud, the culture is vibrant. people have a lot to say.paper people have a lot to say.paper >> washington post correspondent washington post correspondent for iran.. yeganeh his wriefer works for the national.neral, the national.neral, jason is yeganeh is a full iranian citizen. this is their city, tehran. >> the official attitude towards fun in jerchl seems to be ever shift being. you do is fun even good idea? >> there are a lots of security, a lot of rules, there are a lot

a lot of rules, there are a lot of people in place. to make sure do you the rightrtc thing and noomt do the wrong thing. but a lot of push and pull, a lot of give and take. when i first started coming here, you wouldn't hear pop music in a restaurant, or -- >> it's everywhere now. we have police, they arrest girls or women, for having bad hejab or not being covered enough but it's not that we livp with the policle we inil our heu with the policle we inil our heu know?h. >> one of the first things thath people will say when, you say welt i'm going to iran, but don't they make women do this this and this? actually, not so much, not as much as our trends. compare and contrast, womensistr aren't allowed to drive in saud arabia. >> or voteallowed. >> you can vote. watc my sister is an accountant. my sister is an accountant. she has her own company.

girls are allowed to do almostae everything. except we want to go and watchvg football. co can'tnser watch football. >> we cannot. >>in women's thing issues are ot the spear point of change orfamy possible change here. in conservative attitudes deman td certain things. on thedis agai other hand, irann are famously assertive opinion 8thed. opinionated. >> why are we at war with the at asaudis again? >> it's a good question. >> it's strange you ask that question. question. >> you lik >> look i'm at a point here after five years where i missaie certain things about home.ve i miss my buddies, i miss burritos, i miss having certainw

burritos, i miss having certainw beverage.s with my buddies and burritos and certain types of establishments. but i love it and i hate it, you but i love it and i hate it, you know but it's home. it's become home. >> are you optimistic about the future? >> yes, especially if there's nf clear day it finally happens, t yes. yes. very much,episode, >> despite the hopeful nature of our conversation, six weeks our conversation, six weeks after the filming of thisng episode jason and geeing were mysteriously arrested and detained by the police. sadly in iran, this sort of thing is not an isolated incident. helping businesses both large and small, communities and the people who live and work there

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>> what is okay to film in iran and what is not? wh and what iats not? [speaking foreign language] [speaking foreign language] to us at least ministry of guidance might not be okay at all for the basige, essentially roving young militias.

this is a daily part of life for iranians. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪o ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪o >>us. hello. >> s o people have been >> s o people have been ridiculously nice to us. aren't you guys supposed to be the axis of evil? >> you are absolutely right. bo wh people areo demonstrating and killing and bombing and this and people areo demonstrating and that, and this and that. that, and this and that. but you never talk about the real people who are actually living peacefully inside the country. country. you know?end. eventually in the future of the world, we and americans have a world, we and americans have a very special place in this, can, you not play a game without considering iran as a friend. >> one of farok's many passion whic history inh particular.

and he's writing a book on the subject. >> how do you pronounce thed th speciadil here? dizi? 6, name of th00e pot. >> it is like an earthenware -- >> it is like an earthenware -- >> th water lamb chick peas, a. little fat mash it up with poetu little fat mash it up with poetu and chick peas. >> that is good. >> that is good. what do iranians want to eat today, it is a home cooked culture. culture. >> we didn't have th eating out. this is the culture of secret foods in the house. not in the book. >> interesting.ave yo >> interesting.ave yo >>u lot of sickness. >> have you ever tried tracial

iranian foods? >> it's -- traditional iranian foods? >> it's difficult. >> it's difficult. >> this is a land of secret recipes, passed down within recipes, passed down within families like treasured possessions. >> mr. tony. >> beautiful spread of food. v >> beautiful spread of food. v >> which is my wife, i'm a really lucky man. she's a very good cook. >> m i've met has been kind enough to invite me to his home. >> this is milk soup, milk and chicken soup.he >> guest my mom said that iranin people love guests.ried c and theyhi will never get tiredf the guest like their food. they call it fesenjan. they call it fesenjan. >> a stew of ground uni don'td.

know pomegranate and tomato paste. >> and some kind of fruit? dried fruit? ve dried apricot as well. >> delicious, good. >> need 24 hours time.you >>coul these are very 76ththe st sophisticated, very difficult dishes to prepare.sian gul always in excess of things youm, need. you tend t call ito kill your gs with kindness around here. >> that is from the south of iran. >> from the persian gulf? >> this is from north. we call it mahilba. >> maybe if i could try some -- >> this one?ood. >> this one?ood. >> >> that one is we made it with meat. >> so good. hmm fantastic food. >> man and wife both of themtheh working, you know. like>> w this. like>> w this. >> yes. that's what i've been wait bein. for. that's the crispy rice at the me bottom, what ir-s it called?

tahdig? >> tahdig exactly. >> my mom thinks if they have ao guest theyt have to at least to or three kind of foods. or three kind of foods. >> right. >> and if they make just one, they think that it is not vey polite for a guest. but nowadays, for example, for my generation, i have a guest i would just make one food. one appetizer and one dessert. >> and why? you know why? >> because it is much easier. ey (laughing)on muscle, bone, and heart health. yaaay! woo hoo! ensure with 25 vitamins and minerals and ensure complete with 30 grams of protein. ♪ ♪ open talenti and raise the jar to gelato made from scratch. raise the jar to flavors from the world's finest ingredients. and now, from jars to bars.

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>> anthony: times have changed. pre-1979 tehran was party central. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> timesth iran' have changed. central. but with khomeini iran's 1979 , but with khomeini iran's 1979 , 2500 years of monarchy was over. the supreme leader ayatollah khomeini became law. enormous shrine from all over the country. national holiday khomeini died on this day in 1989. his funeral attended by over 10 million iranians.

>> viva wisdom. [speaking foreign language] all of the world. for friendship.to mis [speaking foreign language] >> thanks. >> don't want to miss the bus. south of tehran the landscape opens up. nearly 300 miles of iranian highway stretches to the city os fesfahaa.

fesfahaa. iran's third largest city, half, the world as the saying wentgrat back when this was the capital d of persia and beyond. the city is renowned or the its architecture. the grandest mosques dating back to the middle ages. u.s.a. from america. where are you from from fesfahan? from america? nice to meet you. i'm getting from the decor, this is a former wrestler's hangout .

. ♪ ♪ >> tucked deep in the labyrinthn >> tucked deep in the labyrinthn of the t bazaar the smell of something very, very good. this shop has been here doingad the samein thing for 100 years e based on the line it must be doing it right. >> i had veryani, there is no question who invented veryani.au this doesn't look like any by w

minced lamb shoulder turmeric and of course saffron. more valuable than gold by isfan weight. this is delicious. >> really good. >> isfahan today one of the most visited by tourists? >> if you don't visit isfahan you're wasting your time. >> the royal mosque sets astride the imam square, the second largest square behind tienanmen of china. at tusk, guests come to the square to have a picnic, yes it looks like even a little bit of fun.

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>> anthony: morning prayer in isfahan. >> morning prayer, in esnahan.

[♪ singing ♪ ] >> across town the kaju bridge where men gather spontaneously to sing. [♪ singing ♪ ] in parti >> is this okay? this imprompt you a u giving ,

particular? maybe. but not okay apparently to film. the road back to tehran. along the way reminders of just, along the way reminders of just, how fa the ruins of ancient care th vanserais, highwayis rest stops, all passed along these same chia routes.. this right here, a stop on what was once the silk road, sterchedding extending all the way to china .r

♪ ♪ ♪ea >> in this part of the worlds bi whatever your background, bread is aon vital, essential fundamental and deeply respected staple and mornings at tehran countless bakeries like this one turn out as much as they can. >> oh man it smells good in here. >> you have to stay in line. >> no problem. >> staying in line is a daily part of life for many iranians.9 they bake thes e things on small

stones, gives it that texture. >> that is why they call it pebble. > so i'm iranians have weatt crippling trade sanctions that have caused the economy to sputter. >> so i'm going to make you a small table, all right? >> balbak is kind enough to take me for breakfast. this it is made for bul. this is a mixture of sugar and cinnamon.h >> thairaqt is s good. >> like?ly s >>even yeah, and this spread is. so you were how old when the war with iraq started? >> i was exactly 7.ply, d >> iraq attacked and it was a oh ousurprise attack. >> iran's eight year long war with saddam hussein's iraq is

deeply felt. thousands of iranians, many of them children died fighting in that conflict. e yo mau atrade? >> we were afraid, my brother was in the fronts for threeounty year ts out of eight and not ony my brother, many young peoplenty like: him.ntioni like: him.ntioni eight yearngs of war, you know,, by many big powers. >> and it is worth mentioning whatever you think wherever we are now that saddam supported b, the u.s. government and with our full knowledge used serin andtet mustard gaats on hundreds of mustard gaats on hundreds of thousands of iranians. less known in america, known and felt by everyone in iran. re united states at that time. then made a bad memory for iranians. >> but it is still, people are indeed really, really nice here. i mean -- i mean -- >> hate americans.her.

you held a coup and then a revolution and everything and then we captured, we didn't kill ma real fight. so it can be some political misunderstanding which is result. which will be resolved. maybe i hope. insala. we, the moms who have lost our children to social media harms. we, we, we have had... enough. our politicians have failed. working for lobbyists, not us.

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♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ne doesit not feel the way i'd expected. neither east nor west. but always somewhere in the middle. middle. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> well, it looks spectacular. >> you can't have this in a restaurant. it is time consuming, it is very expensive.ow cooke so persian cuisine has to be experienced in somebody's home.k experienced in somebody's home.k s. bozarmeh. bozarmeh. >> >>

an rice, meat balls and chicken. >> morspy doe thanug any other i think we would have sour. >> rice mixed with yogurt and fr satisfy ron and a crypty dome. don't think of rice as a side dish, it can be a main event. >> you put far more on the tablh than anybody can conceivably mel eat. eat. >> if yol.u don' you don't put anything. (laughing). >> and here we have which is ab. large meatball. large meatball. >> yond beef, onion and cooked. rice, walnuts, dried apricots, rice, walnuts, dried apricots, boiled eggs and barberys.

>> we are an extremely confusing nation. nation. >> the conflicts are enormous.o. >> we take you to our hearts and we are extremist in so manyeactw ways. >> okay.hen they s >> we see this tortured relationship between america and relationship between america and iran for many years. how do you think most americans will react when they see this?a >>sure they'll start coming. [ laughter ] [ laughter ] >> that is very important for us. the d as iranians, to get you to make sure that we are seen as humanse not the so-called enemy or the darkness of iran. like you go to anybody's housesa in iran and i'm sure that they in iran and i'm sure that they will welcome you. >> the much m

ore than what they have now. they want to have good job, they want to make, you know, have families, but is not possible now... they deserve much more than what they have now. they want to have good job. they have families, but it's not possible now for them. i hope we can have more faith in the ordinary americans, because every little change in the policy of the western country, it really, really affects our lives here. >> anthony: the milad tower. iran's tallest building and a symbol of national pride. it rises a thousands feet in the air and looks out at all tehran and beyond.

we're out on the observation deck taking it all in, trying to make some sense of it all. our time in iran was coming to an end and it was impossible to say, was a window opening? or was it only a moment in time before it shut again? you learn pretty quickly that in iran, there is plenty of gray area. an undefined territory. where is the line? it seems to change with barely a moment's notice. okay. here it comes. >> we should leave now. it's dangerous. [ music playing ] >> this is the first time that we have experienced such thing.

>> stay away from the glass. >> please come this way. please follow me. this way, please. [ indistinct chatter ] >> female: please stop filming. yes, i need a trim. i just want to be able to cut the damage. we tried dove instead. so, still need that trim? oh my gosh! i am actually shocked i don't need a haircut. don't trim daily damage. stop it with dove.

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plus, ask how to get one free line of unlimited mobile. comcast business, powering possibilities. >> anthony: last day in iran. night falls, and the kids, like kids anywhere, get in their rides and head for somewhere they could hang out. amazing... >> american cars. >> ...american classics here. where did they-- where do you get them? >> old men, old people here. >> right, right. and then fix them up? >> yeah. mustang?

>> camaro. >> camaro. yeah. firebird? >> pontiac. >> that's a perfect la car right there. [ laughs ] is this a car club or is this just... people just come? >> we hang out this way with our friends. >> awesome, all right. well, i've called out for little delivery. one last thing anthony: everyone's been telling me i have to try. iranian take-out pizza. it comes with a ketchup. >> what do you think about iranian pizza? >> not bad. >> not bad. >> we don't put ketchup on pizza, though. >> i love ketchup. here. >> i spend my youth pretty much doing this. hanging out in a parking lot.

>> anthony: let's assume the worst. let's assume that you cannot see any way to reconcile what you think of iran with your own personal beliefs. you just generally don't approve. >> male: yeah. >> i think those are exactly the sort of places you should go. >> totally. >> see who we're talking about and where we're talking about here and... >> i think it's almost un-american not to go to those places, you know. yeah, there's a lot of horrible things going on here. there is a lot of great things going on too. >> anthony: i don't know that i can put it in any kind of perspective. i feel, you know, deeply conflicted. deeply confusing, exhilarating, heartbreaking, beautiful place. >> male: yeah. exactly.

>> yeah. american cars are crazy. >> american cars are crazy and they're fun. >> yeah. >> let me tell you this. the iran i've seen on tv and read about it in the papers, it's a much bigger picture. let's put it this way. it's complicated. [ laughs ] yeganeh was held for 10 weeks then released. in july 2014 jason was charged with four crimes, including espionage. after 16 months in detention he was convicted and sentenced to prison.