extraordinarily grotesque and wrongheaded observation from a guy who, if nothing else, was expected to understand his enemy on the battlefield. he could not. it turned out, do even that. maybe. i hope we are a little bit smarter now.

. >> motto yicai to asieh namdar. mo nancy kattel. jibun ni was koshi crazy na naru takara tsukuru nanika yori tsuzukeru. najib mikati swathi reddy nanda wakkanai toki night. sophie tanno. mada manabe. tsuzuki. toru. i took a walk through this. >> beautiful world and felt the cool rain on

my shoulder. >> found something good in this beautiful world. >> i felt the. ain't getting colder. jun xiang la la la la. sha la la la la la. sha la la la la sha la la la la la la. >> this is the restaurant masa in new york city, tucked away on the fourth floor of the time warner center on columbus circle. it is america's most expensive restaurant. dinner here costs around $600 per person before saké or extra pieces of the most

outrageously high quality tuna on the planet. the raw ingredients are unparalleled, often flown in from japan or grown specially to this man's specifications. this is masa takayama to call him america's most respected sushi chef would be an injustice, as he is more than that, much more. what was it about him that set him apart? took him from a rather bleak farming community in rural japan to become first, the toast of los angeles and later the king of new york. it is a fascinating story. kanazawa is the capital of ishikawa prefecture, on the west coast of honshu island along the sea of japan. it's known for its untouched by time traditional districts. one of the few cities in japan left relatively intact throughout the war, it's famous for its

crafts, for its beautiful ceramics in particular, but also its artistic sensibility, the way it always valued beautiful things, traditions. it's a city that helped masa, then at a crossroads, to discover a whole new world of grace, of esthetics, of style that affected him deeply. for most, however, kanazawa is simply a place with great seafood. >> this is the kitchen of the kanazawa city. yeah. >> this is. >> oh, look at that. it is a lot of crab. yeah. shrimp. sardines. >> let's go over there. okay. oh, look at that uni sea urchin. >> one of my absolute favorite things has a limited season in japan from september to april. and it's tastiest in winter. but from here. >> hokkaido. >> hokkaido. good deal. another seasonal specialty currently at or near its best. konohana or

snow crab. juicy and sweet and delicious. oh, man, that is good. >> really good. sweet though. >> very unique. >> huh? >> yeah. >> good, good. very good. thank you, thank you. very good. oh, let's eat this one, please. yeah. >> eel livers grilled on a stick. unagi, unagi. >> yeah, yeah ooh! hot. >> we got. >> oysters. these are the size of freakin clown shoes. >> okay. >> where are these from? >> shimane prefecture wow. >> just one oyster is a meal. it's, like, as big as a steak. >> yeah. thank you. >> it's like that.

>> you hold it french style. wow. whoa, look at that right there. >> the best. >> wow. that's good and tender for a big oyster. >> well, thank you for the. that's so good. oh. >> the geisha profession, or geiko, as it's known in kanazawa, gained widespread popularity in the late 18th century, wearing elaborate kimono costumes and makeup.

geckos are paid to entertain by singing, dancing, drinking, basically making older men generally feel good and welcome for an hour, maybe two. geiko is the owner of the fujinomiya teahouse, one of only 15 or so left in kanazawa. he. knows these teahouses, which at one time numbered in the hundreds, provide a stage for the geiko, of which there are only about 50 left working in the city. yahiko is a retired geiko and an old friend of masa, whom he credits with teaching him many things about culture, life, and presumably about women. >> nice. beautiful, beautiful. >> this is a hard thing to do. >> oh yeah? yeah, they need to learn a lot of stuff play

music, tell stories, dance all. woman gomen nasai. a lot of work, a lot of work. cheers. >> mhm. so what brought you here first? >> when i was young, i didn't know this kind of world. color wise artist. beautiful. i've never seen that kind of stuff. big kind of shock. i was a country boy here. very sophisticated. people are sophisticated. ah. learned from her culture. what the chic is spiritual wise. they teach me, you know, that's why kanazawa city. this is my second country. >> owned and run by four generations within the same family. yamano is a traditional kaiseki restaurant that dates back to 1890. kaiseki is a

multi-course meal with an entirely new menu presented every few weeks. in response to the changing seasons and the seasonality of the products available in the region, everything is considered the taste, of course. how to best prepare a particular fish or plant at its very peak. presentation. even the ceramic dishes on which each dish is served changes constantly. leaves, flowers, elements from nature evoke the season. wow. look at the package. incredible. the first of eight dishes preserved in a tightly wrapped bamboo leaf, intended to resemble a sword, sea bream served chimaki style over rice, slightly sweetened by vinegar, soy sauce, sugar and sesame. >> beautiful not only beautiful. >> when you first went to the u.s., how old were you? >> 27? >> 27? >> yeah. did you have a job when you went? no.

>> for play golf? >> no way. >> yeah, but the thing is, when i was a kid, you know, art class, the teacher told me that american kids, when they draw outside just flat, straight line, house, tree, sun. such huge, huge land. so japanese kids will just mountain forest. and the house. right? the sun. i wanted to go us to see huge land. that's my dream. you know. >> grilled rockfish made raku style, steamed in smoking wormwood. >> good fish. right? very good bamboo shoots and wagyu beef prepared tableside with soy sauce and mirin. >> mhm. oh that's fantastic. it's really good. today's sashimi course is cod salted and pressed between leaves of kelp for two hours, coated with sake cured codfish. row next to it, flounder, its skin gently rubbed with grilled tomato. the

day before. finally, a super luxurious clam hot pot rice is steamed with clam and a bonito broth, then topped with plump torigai plum and manju clams, as well as creamy sea urchin and a japanese broccolini blossom for good measure. simple, perfect. >> wow. >> oh, uni uni. awesome. >> oh, the umami goes into the rice, right? >> so i want to know the stereotypical japanese mentality. the salaryman. you join the company, you stay with the company. >> well, some people go that way. >> most people go this way. yes, they choose security. yeah, maybe it's an unusual way of thinking. i have to make my own way. >> yeah, i agree with that, older brother. they can take over the family business. i got to do something. went to tokyo, then realized, wow, this is a different world. what could i do? yeah. second brother, maybe second

brother syndrome. >> exactly. >> maybe. yeah. >> this was awesome. >> good to see you again. >> welcome to times square. it's the biggest party of the year. happy new year with the biggest guests. we have even more amazing guests lined up for you with performances by music's biggest stars and appearances by comedians, celebrities and more. yes, anything can happen on new year's eve. oh my gosh, new year's eve. live with anderson and andy. live coverage starts at eight on cnn and streaming live on max. >> shon barnes. it's time for.

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seafood, a lot of good vegetable. i came here to learn this place. totally changed me. look at it mr. esha karam. he's my mentor. oh. he's an artist. great artist. master gave me a lot of idea. more than 40 years. he's doing this kind of art. they learn that simple, clean line. stop. it's not. come on. then we become great friends then i start designing to. i have an image in my head. i start drawing the image.

then i come all the way here to talk with mr. uqora. the passion makes me change. of course. yeah. that's it. good. yeah. beautiful concept. done. >> when do you make the drawings for the ceramic that you want when you're drinking. what are you drinking? >> yeah, we got ready. we did so many times, huh? yeah, yeah. >> eating and drinking and drawing. >> yeah. always. he teaches me

a lot of stuff. >> so when you're in new york and the ceramics come, do you ever go, what the happened? don't remember happened. >> i get. >> your design man. exactly 90 minutes southeast of kanazawa is a mountainous region known as yamanaka onsen. and it looks unlike any place i've ever been in japan. masa's good friend and art advisor, haruo konishi, has a family hideaway here, a beautiful 120 year old traditional kominka style home built around an hirari, a sunken hearth in the middle of the living room. it's wild getting up here. the snow, the rocks in the road. >> yeah right. man. yeah, right. >> pretty. not only does the aurora heat the entire house, it becomes the gathering place. on nights like these two chairs. they get together, cook, eat, drink large quantities of unfiltered, slightly chunky saké and enjoy the country life. looking good. the boys have laid out the

makings of a pretty amazing feast. iwana or char were caught today in a nearby mountain stream. enormous hokkaido scallops pulled this morning from the sea of japan sizzle and pucker in their shells over the fire, and butter and lime juice and a touch of home brewed soy sauce. wild japanese boar hangs above the coals, radiating its sweet aroma as it cooks. look at that. yeah. so how long have you all known each other? how many years? >> well, 30 years, huh? right. we know each other. i love this kind of cooking. you know, that's the way i like. you should be careful, though. it's odd, though. yeah. they. wow. yeah. >> wheat. >> now. home. >> freshly caught local quail is rubbed with olive oil, sprinkled with salt and lightly glazed with that homemade soy. >> dogecoin. yeah. >> oh, wow.

>> how's it? good. >> that's good mhm. >> it's kind of tackle slow cooking gives this kind of flavor. soft juicy howdy john. how's the fish. oh. you know what he said before fish i'm going to burn out. >> of him first. >> right. don't worry. good food takes a long time. >> so this big argument with the spanish big argument is umami a flavor or sensation? >> umami is essence. strong essence. >> so it's a mysterious force. >> yeah. much bigger universe, bigger than flavor. of course, this vegetable is called fukumoto under the ground cover. the snow cold. then little by little bit, it opens up like that. this is the first sign of the spring. we appreciate that. >> how do you cook

this? grill? >> fried. or braised? i'm going to grill it a little bit of oil, then a little bit of salt. they're so happy. the face is so happy. they want to be cooked this way. their blood is bitterness. very bitter. need the bitterness to grow. >> this is italian, this agrodolce. at the end of an italian meal. exactly. sweet fat, sweet fat. at the end of the meal. something bitter to remind you of the sadness. >> this is the mommy to that kind of sensibility. i didn't know that he taught me this kind of delicacy. he's my maestro teacher. you know. don't try this. strong flavor. right? >> but you're right. umami. it's deep. >> this is umami. >> among izuku razon's many skills, apparently, is a shocking proficiency at

making soba noodles. tonight, the soba is paired up with slices of tender duck and green onion grilled over the aurorae. >> nice, al dente. the soba is best soba perfect, then topped by a warm dashi sauce made of soy, mirin and a touch of sugar. i'm so glad we share with this moment with my old g ichi. you know that word is no. >> tell me once in life, this , we appciate respect to each other. >> enjoying this moment. >> ichi! go, ichi! >> never again. never again. yeah, exactly. >> i want to be the greatest player that i could

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321321. >> today i'm rahel solomon in new york and this is cnn. >> closed captioning is brought to you by audiobook network. >> tell your story, produce an audiobook with us. >> want to earn more profits and find a new audience for your published book? produce an audiobook. we handle narration, production and digital distribution. >> call or scan the qr code now. >> for sushi. and not just sushi. sushi made it one of the oldest, most iconic, respected, best establishments in the world. the place where it all began, not just for masa takayama, but

generations of young, predominantly male sushi apprentices, or desis who went on to open their own places all over the world. this is ginza sushiko in tokyo. the original 130 years old. and for all that time, this in one form or the other is how the day started. scaling and gutting the fish, prepping the kitchen, cleaning the bathroom, making saké for a customer right? >> dishwasher. everything. >> for how long? >> first two years only in the third year. >> the rice. >> well, that about does it. >> and if you get that right, eventually, maybe, just maybe, the master will begin to teach you the next phase. how to stand next to him as a wakita slicing the fish. eventually, eventually creating pieces of nigiri for guests at the bar. of the dozen young men who work here, not all will make it to become a sushi shokunin.

>> it's been a long time to achieve that status of truly becoming a master chef. >> how many years? seven years to learn, right? that's a lot of time. >> a lot of time. >> a lot of work, a lot of pain. exactly. what was it like apprenticing here? hard. >> his father was a very tough, very tough. at that time, his grandfather was here, too. very tough. >> young masa was first hired here as an apprentice by shokunin toshiaki sugiyama. this is his son, mamoru sugiyama, who runs sushiko today. the fourth generation, to uphold the standards and family tradition. some things should stay the same. yes. >> as this. ginger makes sense. >> seared horse mackerel over green onion and ginger drizzled with house made soy. >> i love this little stuff. pretty simple right? yeah. it's

fantastic. >> koji. love it. >> yeah, that's liz cheney seasoned, marinated in soy sauce. this very old style. yeah, it looks good. >> yeah. >> maguro bluefin tuna prepared in classic zuke style. it's so beautiful. yeah. what happened if you did a bad job? >> he didn't slap. but, you know, the thing is latter. punishment. yeah. >> you don't go home feeling good. >> yelling, yelling yelling. >> yelling. >> how does he remember you? good guy, bad guy. pain in the. >> saxony-anhalt

saxophone. naruto. guy winch. metamucil. >> wait. is he any good at saxophone good. >> i love jazz. i didn't know anything about working here on a sunday day off, taking classes a little bit and playing here in the bathroom. here at work. that i put the cloth, the belt. they play like that. >> my god, they want to kill you. you were a very unusual man. >> sushi is the best meal we can enjoy. every single small piece, different fish. we can see the chef right there. he's slicing wasabi. make it right here. eat right here on this. >> japanese tiger prawn, octopus and fluke sashimi.

>> japanese cooking. we care very much. and kick, which is fighting spirits like this. right? >> straight. jack brushed with soy and sake. i. >> clean this moment. do not miss this. then grab it. right. eat. see, that's why you got to eat quickly. if 30s one minute it's dying. he is living somewhere. almost on the fish sushi. the ripe, moving swimming very fast. >> done. amazing. >> this momentum is ending right there. it's very important. >> anago or seal a handroll in fresh crackling seaweed. oh, man.

>> wow. >> you know, maybe tamagoyaki this the haku in my recipe. his father told me that i did a great job for this. >> this is very difficult. yeah. >> please teach my son what he said. oh, wow. >> look at that. >> this has lots of shrimp, eggs? of course. eggs and fish pieces oh, really? very special stuff. >> did he ever think back then that you would be a success in america? or did he think

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>> nasushiobara is a town like many others in rural japan, the kind of japanese town we don't see much of in movies or television. a once traditional farming community, slow paced, inward looking, the opposite end of the universe culturally, from new york and tokyo, even from kanazawa. >> mount tambora yoshiro hatakeda no mirai. >> shinkansen tomorrow. >> it used to be a five hour trip from tokyo, now reduced to two by the shinkansen bullet train. why don't we have these in america, by the way, ask your congressman this rather drab, featureless place is where masa was born and raised and could well have stayed. but then everything would have been different. masa's dad, yoshio

recently passed, but his mom, ishi, is still going strong. the center of the family. >> tony. tony, we used to meet you. >> catherine is masa's daughter. california raised but a frequent visitor to the family home. she and her grandmother are preparing some familiar comfort foods to celebrate masa's homecoming. thank you mom, i, like you, was wishing. motsunabe is a slow simmered stew of pork tripe. konnyaku, daikon, green onions, and miso. oh, what's it? >> some food? right? >> this is the country food. kanpai. welcome

home. >> but you don't get this in new york. no. >> was it that. >> this is really good? see why you love this? catherine, by the way, is a pastry chef at the great restaurant the french laundry in the napa valley. so high level cooking seems to run in the family. she grew up sitting in the sushi bar. >> i did? >> yeah, sitting on a milk crate with a cheeseburger in front. and i'd watch my dad prepping and i'd call out dad! >> and he'd be like, i'm not your dad here. >> i was like, well, it's funny. >> what did you do for fun back there? >> i was eating. >> your father was in the fish business wholesale. >> fish retail. he makes sashimi, right? >> matt gnojek nic robertson dogecoin pete aguilar.

>> dagara dagara uchi minang oka amir tal gaza. osaka natto. kambuja chirashi sophie tanno masa. >> his brother and three sisters all worked for the family business. every day after school and on weekends. >> 910 years old, we carry the sashimi dish in a special kind of container. they go all the neighbors go the delivery. >> you learn how to clean fish very early, how to cut it. >> ten, 11, 12. at that time already i started to grill the fish. >> nitzan i know kuroneko tom massie skyrizi mute egede you know the pattern. oshima greg casar al-mawasi al-mawasi her opinion. >> were you a good student? >> i was a good boy. >> so were you surprised that he became a big success in

america? do you? >> are you sue smey? >> khuza'a? onda ni sachiko al-mawasi dan asana. koi ni tomoyo. >> but you were not a lazy kid. you had dreams and you wanted to. >> but i can't sit long. you know? i got to do something. >> you. shanon cook. >> she's saying he probably works more here at the restaurant because. >> oh, man. nice. wasabi. see this? >> yeah. this is a great flavor. to scrape first after scrape, then go this way. whoa, whoa. >> how nice. wow, look at that. comfort food is one thing, and, it's wonderful. but masa being masa, you'll notice there's a mountain of decidedly luxurious sashimi brought up from tsukiji market in tokyo this morning. >> as we do all the time. you know, very simple. easy.

>> yeah, it's just a nice big pile of incredible, beautiful uni like that. i do that all the time. some sea urchin roe or uni and some high testa toro tuna that any new york sushi enthusiast would cheerfully cut their best friend's throat for. >> mm mm mm. that's it. no sushi. you remind me bold words. maybe better typical japanese meal. >> champagne saucer. >> that's what we do. >> country cooking at its best, right? >> you only come across an artist like luther vandross once in a lifetime. >> he was a boss from the beginning. luther said. i have a sound in my head. i got to get it out. you are my shining star. my god. it was the most exciting time in the world. his life had extremely joyful

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>> high school. rah ra ra high school. sis. boom bah has the mc5 so notably sang. but school in japan is different. they didn't give up on physical education, as we seem to have the thousand year old martial art of kendo for the way of the sword is still widely taught. boys and girls alike compete with bamboo swords, sensible stand ins for actual samurai swords. but the same thing man oh, kendo is scored by strikes against the wrist, head, torso

or throat, each representing a blow. that would be bad news if handling an actual blade. ha ha very fast on the concept of kaizen improvement. central to the study of any martial art, it could be said, also applies to cooking at a high level. so it's no surprise that young masa once suited up for the same team at the same junior high school. he's trying to psych the kid, but i don't think it's going to work. frankly. on the other hand, i.

>> hang yomi no. >> daddy somebody. who? >> you still got it, man looking good. face oh! >> woo! ha! no, i not at all. that's a no no. i thought. okay, awesome, man. >> fast inspiration. >> my junior. aikido shanon cook. got it. goju

al-jolani nancy kattel. arit john. i know. us us. >> yeah. >> masa takayama left. nasushiobara. his oldest brother kazuo stayed. he's been the chef proprietor of local restaurant tsukimura for the last 30 years. kimiyoshi eel liver dipped in a sauce of sake. soy and mirin, then grilled low and slow over charcoal. they could serve this at a french laundry, right? >> i think we do. >> so back in the days of the family catering business, when he looked at his younger brother, did he think this guy's going to make something of himself? >> he's like, no, it's because

your dad said he was a bad he was not a good student. >> it's when he went to high school and then he stopped studying, right. >> what was he doing instead of studying mahjong? >> mahjong mahjong is. >> next. this insanely delicious custard of eel and egg jacked with bean curd, bonito broth and kelp. wow, wow, that is beautiful. really good of everyone in the family. what did your dad end up? the weirdo. >> so after he graduated high school, he didn't have any idea what he wanted to do. >> my uncle at the time, he was already in tokyo and he was like, look, come out to tokyo, work at ginza sushiko. >> and he went to go check it out and he loved it. >> tell me if i'm wrong. >> that was in a tremendous break for an aimless young man

from the provinces. >> you know, my father being the second son, he kind of had free reign to do whatever he wanted. >> what did you want? mukaichi kara alaimo jim sciutto chikara shokunin son ni naritai. what? >> no nihon natto? >> yeah. >> so traditionally, it's the oldest son stays to take care of the parents. >> if he could live his life over again. yeah. >> designer. >> a designer of fashion designer. fashion designer? >> really? >> so you say kara alaimo. nihon. nihon. naka ni iran. oh! >> then hitsumabushi eel steamed, dressed and grilled over rice. wow! look at this. >> oh, wow. >> there are a

lot of components here. so it's them. >> wow. that's good. >> was she. >> i never had unagi other than my uncles. >> unagi. >> really? yeah. oh, good sake, good food. >> yeah. >> boy, she was dumb. >> andy, it has been one wild year. i know that whole mudang live stream was crazy. what? oh, wait. you mean the rumors about me and the french pole vaulter? who's saying that? is it everybody? i have zero idea what you're talking about. and you think i'm the one that doesn't follow the news? i did like that one new song about coffee. espresso. oh, i'd love one, actually. oh, sweetie, you have been following actual news, right? oh, boy. new year's eve live with anderson and andy. live coverage starts at eight on cnn and streaming live en masse.

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>> i'm dr. sanjay gupta in atlanta and this is cnn. >> the japanese often bear a heavy burden of responsibilities. societal expectations, family obligations. tradition. work. but when they relax, they really do it well. they are better at it than anybody. whoa whoa whoa. >> it's good man. >> soak in an outdoor onset natural sulfur baths in the mountains. for instance. oh. that's it. >> oh, man. so good, huh? >> yeah, i feel healthier already. yeah. >> where's the beer, so to speak?

thank you. >> papa cheers. >> it is by century. >> it's time to relax. >> beautiful color. >> huh? looking good. right? get together with some friends and cook up some al fresco mountain style sukiyaki. maybe a little tempura made from foraged wild asparagus and fukumoto. >> the way i like. >> yeah, beautiful. and when it's sukiyaki time, after a whole lot of, shall we say, home brewed saké, a bath, i buy my dog. >> you just kick back, stir in the maitake and the shiitakes and some tochigi beef and enjoy the day. this is what i do. oh,

yeah. >> beautiful. this is going to be good. yeah. >> more more more more more more more more more more more more more more. >> yeah yeah. good good good. yeah. >> nice. eggs. >> good. eggs. mhm. so good. see this is what i like outside. especially outside. it tastes better. much better. everything tastes better outside. exactly, exactly. >> so how long have you known these guys? >> uh, since. since high school. high school? high school? yeah. which is, what, 44 years? >> 44 years? yeah. >> it's a long time, huh? >> how does he remember you in high school? who was the best student? who was the worst student here? >> he's the best student. >> best student? >> this guys. the three guys. the three of us. >> the three of you were the best student. >> oh. very good. >> so you do this when you were kids. build a fire, cook something. >> always. always. we did that. drink. smoke. smoke. cigarette outside back then. >> did everybody know that you were not going to stay like

when you were in high school? did you talk about when i get old enough, i'm going to america. i'm not. i'm not staying here. >> yeah, we did that. john sauer not uqora or america. yeah, i told them you weren't dressed up like john wayne or anything. no no no no no no no no no no no. >> they say you can take the boy out of the country, but you can't take the country out of the boy. i don't know if that's true. we all come from someplace, that's for sure. but new york city in masa takayama's case, seems far, far away from the little town he grew up in.