hello welcome this is equally near a sustainability magazine which keeps you up to date with solutions to future proofing our life your donut a focus today is on the clothes we wear how wide and deep the impact is on the environment and what you can do to change that i'm some coming to you from mumbai

in india over the next thirty minutes let's look at how a fashion label makes designer clothes with scraps of waste book. how a startup in france is trying to turn the tide in the polluting blocked a dying industry. and how the indigenous but not a sea sick sorry is making a comeback in high fashion. but first to an important issue of our times fast fashion has become a buzzword around the world in the last few years many a far as the buying new clothes every weekend has a devastating effect on the planet but don't quite like or have access to environmental friendly fashion or delhi based fashion still view is trying to change that bridge is setting a scalable and sustainable model in place to make fast fashion a thing of the past. at

this clothing design studio in south west telling fabric waste is seen as a valuable resource the philosophy is simple we don't need more new clothes that challenges the current fast fashion business model something this label does with pride. the problem in the fashion industry starts from the fact that it is based on a leaner fashion model so today about sorry three percent of the garment we used to just go into one foods because there is lack of is of using the fabrics and the garments that we are currently working with. it is this realisation that led critique and due diligence to other founders to

address the problem of textile waste in india and set up a design label committed to making fashionable clothing pieces from textile waste or upcycling discarded items it's a concept that has been gaining in popularity in the textile industry all over india as awareness rises. there's always a garment background out of it. then archiving processes there's a lot of restrictions that happen so i could obs all of that on board the small scale unit or a lot there is so much that has been produced and that exists it's about time that we start thinking about using what is already there. garment waste is not the only problem in india the textile industry is a major polluter in india the third biggest after plastic and paper. for india it's not just the garment with that we have to be concerned about is the production waste that we have to begin. and about this to one of the law just

exporters of both objects and on the way so all of the waste is just as we're going to do i think at that level is still something that benoit being able to do with. reproducing. the bottom mentally implications of watering and the situation is only getting worse by the day due to the surging demand for products use of chemicals the need for landfill space energy and water consumption. into a new fifteen zero knowing. that fashion industry used up about seventy nine billion metric so fucked up so that's that's huge and the single t. shirt is takes up about two thousand seven hundred twenty does a flock of which is as much as most adults were drinking and that is a single. then of course that. in the production

you know process itself which then impacts the communities around which factions come. due diligence fund is used personal funds to set up a company in twenty twelve now they have nearly twenty employees the seeds of inspiration are saum while the fabric was just being sorted. once all of this fabric comes into the studio restock thinking about what kind of designs can bring all of them together we start fixing the fabrics in it's of so that they can actually be used for either to create the clothes that we work with. that's not all the altar produce bags and other items and the scraps from their own production going to making other new products as well. whatever's left over after the bag and the collection is then sent to be processed into people this paper is what is

now making our stationery products. and now our next steps are actually to think about what to do with. india doodle a just considered a somewhat expensive brand with garments costing between fifty to one hundred euros . presenting. since it first set up shop doodle age has shown the collection every year at the lakme fashion week. like the fashion week is a premier biannual event in india it's a way of reinforcing the idea that trend based fashion is not the only way to remain viable. but not everyone interested in fashion and design or even other designers share their philosophy. they just keep questioning you

at every level as to why you do what you do and at some point we've just given up that it's ok it's ok for not understanding what we're doing but. it's about how we want to do it and how we want to create you know the products that. the labels products are already available in thirty stores in india and also to some stores but critical of things they're still a long way to go. like kristie said not everyone realizes how bad an effect. all truths can have on the. our expanding sort of testament to that this next experience will help you make an informed choice the next time you go out to buy a t. shirt. how harmful is a t. shirt for the environment. it's fun to buy a new t.

shirt and it's usually cheap too but the environment has a high price why. is grown in monocultures and needs must be very patient it takes an average two and a half thousand liters of water to make one single t. shirt. the cotton is treated with pesticides sixteen percent of the world's purses signs are used in cotton fields and these toxic chemicals can pollute the groundwater. and then there's all the energy that is consumed to make two shirts electricity is needed to transform ror cotton into yawn. and finally look at production conditions eighty percent of the world's garment workers are women overworked and underpaid they manufacture your t. shirt for a pittance which is why it's so cheap. after production all these t. shirts are transported around the world part of the up to eleven kilograms of c o two emissions per t. shirt. so next time you go shopping think about how many t.

shirts you really need. now high street fashion with dedicated time and effort into finding more. amsterdam based fashion for good is the world's news and dedicated to sustainable fashion innovation and one of its biggest mandates is to help us defeat how clothes are bought and discarded. just go shopping in any big european city and it's the same picture one clothing store after another but the lucrative textile industry is harmful to the environment which is why many big clothing chains around the fire so in response some of them are supporting a museum in amsterdam called fashion for good it explores solutions to the problem right at the entrance visitors learn that say. thetic polyester fibers can take over two hundred years to decompose so clearly there's

a need for alternatives one side of bringing this innovation is still working with big brands retailers manufacturers to help scale some of those innovators and startups that we work with but another really important piece of the puzzle is to also engage the wider public visitors to the museum can have organic cotton t. shirts printed with their own designs and the museum combines information and commerce by offering the exhibit for sale. if you. always keep purchasing that's the principle behind fast fashion there aren't even just seasonal designs anymore instead there are new collections every few weeks the museum office tips on how to avoid fast fashion such as buying less or buying second hand visitors can save the suggestions on a personal wristband then when they leave they get a list of good resolutions for every day shopping the museum is mainly funded by

retail giant sink looting c.n.a. das and online shop the land. visitors though aren't told that. companies that are partnering with us they are on all their mentions already pretty deeply committed to driving change you've seen that through businesses they nobility reports that they have. published and our other transparent about their work you also see that through certain collections some of them are presented here in the good shop that they're really pushing the envelope in terms of new solutions . sustainability is fashionable with the urban middle class and the fashion industry wants to profit from that a trend that can't be overlooked at trade fairs like bird lin's fashion week truly green labels or fair fashion have to prove they're completely sustainable from fabric production to dying to finishing and that makes them expensive but the

amsterdam museum hardly mentions that aspect. it's an exhibition actually founded by the prospects for brands so what is a interest in sustainable sustainable this is a new brand actually it's green washing using new stuff it's a nice new maybe you can put on your clothes so i think it's very important to have a deeper look to see what's through high. in amsterdam the textile giants are getting inspiration from startups that are bringing new ideas into the fashion industry such as using recycled materials or natural dyes instead of synthetic ones . the big companies meet with the startups in workshops the museum has received twenty million euros from sponsors to fund them. still works for one of the startups. i think it's very important on the one hand to have a program where you connect the big companies to the grades ideas that are there

so there are like lots of solutions for all the problems problems we have. but they have to get out there and the big companies the big brands if they change even a little bit there's a bigger impact. those who don't want to wait for that to happen can get active themselves to slow down the fast fashion cycle. you. know you. now the chemicals used to make him die fabrics are often toxic for the environment and for the workers in fact. ninety nine percent of all dice are made from two chemicals a france based company has found a way to make dice which lets see how. yeah. this may look like modern art but it's virtually a natural process at work believe it or not these blue color trails are made by

bacteria. we've known for decades that microorganisms can produce pigments we're doing today at p. levy is expanding their production to an industrial scale with a view to replacing the production of petrochemical dyes worldwide on the one. seventy blatche. say they're the first to study this extraordinary natural process they're the founders of the french startup believe based in toulouse they see these microorganisms this great allies that could be used to color all our clothes without any chemicals for years they worked to identify the microorganisms best able to produce color. these microorganisms contain two talks of enzymes firstly enzymes that down sugar molecules from detroit for example and secondly enzymes that can reassemble those molecular fragments to make colorful dye more cubes. in

two thousand and fifteen they finally developed a low carbon method to obtain pigment for dying textiles it's a method that's been used for centuries in the food industry you know we allow these microorganisms to ferment to bit mike fermenting beer. but instead of consuming sugar to make alcohol the microorganisms are consuming sugar to make dies . because of that. it takes a week and warm temperatures for the blue pigment to appear the substance is then tried to obtain a biodegradable poulder. who is suitable for drawing different types of fabric so depending on the formulas we apply we can produce colors ranging from burgundy to light blue. this biotechnology could change the face of the fashion industry. the textile industry

is one of the most polluting sectors in the world. it uses a huge amount of chemicals to make. one hundred kilos of petroleum are needed to make one kill or die so in our everyday clothes there's a kilo of petroleum just for the dies. if we take just one piece of clothing like a t. shirt or a pair of trousers for instance tender forty percent of its environmental impact is due to. the. believe has set its focus on india and china the biggest textile produces the company dreams of transforming the whole production chain making it more sustainable could believe help to lose return to its heyday when the city was the capital of blue. during the in a sense the french city blossomed thanks to the pastel blue business the soft blue

dye was derived from one local plant but the flourishing industry slowly declined from the early nineteenth century. nowadays to loose has abandoned the industrial scale production of the natural pigment but there are still signs throughout the city that hark back to the glory days of the business the. dates back to the time but has special significance to police c.e.o. . on this. one day purely offer the city of columbus a beautiful building like this because it was built by people who were selling pastel blue during the renaissance period. they. pili we are effectively going back to the story of to lose because they were creating dies out of plants until the nineteenth century then petro chemicals arrived now we want to develop again a production made out of renewable materials the material went over. so far the

startup has produced several kilos of dye powder with the help of the bacteria but they will need to improve the process if that's to compete with petro chemical dice to achieve costs they're planning to use a good cultural waste as a substitute for sugar. well that's the big advantage is that we can take all of the leftovers like stang's leaves or other parts of the crop a source of carbon so we can kill two birds with one stone. by twenty twenty one. and his team expect to be producing several tons of dipole to a year we might then be able to find clothes without pigment but they would need more time more money and more production capacity to become a serious alternative to the petrochemicals industry.

traditional crafts in india have often relied on natural substances for generations and indian ride straw was incomplete without a study a sixty odd one the government hand will win instinct gold and silver thread but hang the stunning into a dying art as we both increasingly turn to mechanized that churn out in large quantities of synthetic and cheaper saudis now some indian designers have stepped in to save the iconic sorry and keep the craft alive. but an r.c. hindus to wash away the sins in the river got some to die and be committed. but about a mercy isn't just india's holy city. it's also his forehand saris with silk and gold through it. with

a distinctive looking feet. on a byword for adults there must have the stylish indian women. the fabrics spun and jeffard loops. operated by a string of punch cards the determine the designs for the. looms but. the physically demanding work is mostly done by men so. it can take weeks to make a single start. but seems like this increasing. the centuries old artistic tradition is dying out. in the past there would have been a wooden panda in every home. entire families and bees villages around but an aussie involved in reading skills were passed on from generation to generation

until this happened. thanks in the last decade but enough to see the arrival of machines churning out sheep. and wiping out the hand of the interests. of. the weaker made the switch. just fifteen handled and and invested in woodlands and so. many of the artisans before still look for work in other sectors. which makes me very sad. but i have to embrace new technology in order to make a living his production is now much faster i don't have to do backbreaking work anymore. unlike these machines can run as well as at night and i make much more money. in the own markets and.

that's hardly a trace of the city's one switch tradition for which she made fabric and in chinese me. to create her. there is a solution to save the handle industry. is a designer invest in us his company still makes a few handmade saris for the high end indian market. they can retail for upwards of two thousand dollars but the market is changing very useful in this so what. are the next. produces and crafted fabrics for luxury fashion houses in the u.s. and in the autumn. they end up as design away on catalogues prices can be as high as four hundred dollars a meter. by michonne know times have changed there isn't much of a market left in india for people handled saris. the industry needs to reinvent

itself. to go with international buyers because they really value craftsmanship and handmade products and they're willing to pay much higher prices. back in the village that is allowed to employ thirty two families on a regular basis. the readers here own between one hundred twenty to two hundred fifty dollars a month. depending on the work and the skill. it's really about the market creates . the hope is that it will encourage our dissidents to stay true to the unique craft when you can hear something with your hand your brain your muscle that's good for some emotion and that effort that thing is so makes incredible in the textile and overseas of course is a big thing when the wind becomes difficult they told us i don't farm that said i'm from that's our debate. so it's for them already it's all for us and all of all our

happiness is something the norm so i think it's incredible to see in terms of face time our you can see the emotion but here again making a single thing of hambledon fabric. in both legs and entire chain of artisans specialized in different skills. up to sixteen different workers a part of the process. for the artist since leaving for the global market means adopting the know how and learning to innovate. cheated on began bleeding when he was ten years old. learning the skills from his own father. he's been making since armies for this life but he has had the on with these modern designs i really have to concentrate on the finish and craftsmanship for these fabrics as. well but he has a body i can't afford to make any mistakes because then i have to restart the entire process i have to constantly check the design when i buy. it takes longer than

making a sari. initiatives like a mars helping to sustain the artisans and keep the craft a life. of peace but not from me but change seems inevitable and the future remains uncertain. i would love to feel you be so all those annoying going to be worth any more than this kind of craft and develop the problem with that like a bit aspirational goal better on this basically this all cut off for them is the sort of diving there is the biggest challenge because after ten years there is no we will start all in in this industry. if one of the seas remaining hand looms but to fall completely silent. it would mark the disappearance not just of a craft. but the way of life. i hope today's stories inspired you to be the change you want to see we'll be back next week with many

more such stories each one taking us one step closer to a sustainable future good bye and have a wonderful week. it's

time to take a step. back and face. time you're up just such. and fight for the truth. to overcome down trends and come back to. it's time for. a new wus

coming up ahead. minds. african. president obama at the end of the london bridge not in front in qahtani the rebel army and in the one nine hundred ninety four genocide wasn't bottle in the rooms they were. and we. need to reinforce that it doesn't need this but does that mean he was not floating in a. controversial leader whose success is beyond question. time. london tragedy starts people fish on t w. sarno just couldn't get the song out of his head. ecologist began searching for the source of these captivating sounds. and found that deep in the rain forest in

central africa. the byock of people. going out. and looked at. him like anyone fit in. my living. he was fascinated by their culture the state local only a promise to. the jungle and return to the concrete and glass jungle but. the result reverse culture shock. the prize winning documentary from the forest starts april first on t.w. .

the boat. the boat . this is you know really was life for berlin british lawmakers deal another blow to the governments for exact plans mr m.p.'s rejected a high stakes gamble by prime minister tree so made by a majority of fifty eight votes to a may had split up there were draw deal in a bit to gain in short bursts of extension from brussels and ruled out a long delay for britain's withdrawal from the european union her strategy failed also coming up but a leading nation remembers the victims of the new zealand terrorist attack. post.