tv Eco India Deutsche Welle April 3, 2019 12:30pm-1:01pm CEST
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the christian population. occupied the city center seventeen president deter his response was. told this is not the kind of freedom that we want how did morality become a gateway to islamist terrorism. an exclusive report from a destroyed city. in the sights of fire starts april eleventh on g.w. . hello welcome this is equal india a sustainability magazine which keeps you up to date with solutions to future proofing a life. a focus today is on the clothes we wear how wide and deep the impact is on
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the environment and what you can do to change that i'm some that i call coming to you from mumbai in india over the next thirty minutes let's look at how a fashion label makes designer clothes with scraps of waste book. how a startup in france is trying to join the tide in the pool you think glock's dying industry. and how the indigenous but not a sea sick sorry is making a comeback in high fashion. but first to an important issue of our times fast fashion has become a buzzword around the world in the last few years many of the buying new clothes every weekend has a devastating effect on the planet but don't quite like or have access to environmentally friendly fashion or delhi based fashions to you is trying to change that to bridge itself in a scalable and sustainable model in place to make fast fashion a thing of the past. at
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this clothing design studio in southwest tele fabric waste is seen as a valuable resource the philosophy is simple we don't need more new clothes that challenges the current fast fashion business model something this label does with pride. the problem in the fashion industry starts from the fact that it's b.s. don't really know our fashion model so today about seventy three percent of the garment we used to just go into landfills because there is lack of ways of reusing the fabrics and the garments that we're currently working with.
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it was this realisation that led critique and due diligence to other founders to address the problem of textile waste in india and set up a design label committed to making fashionable clothing pieces from textile waste upcycling discarded items it's a concept that has been gaining in popularity in the textile industry all over india as awareness rises. there's always a garment that comes out of it. but then i thought being process is there's a lot of ways to jews that happened so i could obs all of that on board the small scale unit or a lot there is so much that has been produced and that exists it's about time that we start thinking about using what is already there. garment waste is not the only problem in india the textile industry is a major polluter in india the third biggest after plastic and paper. for india it's not just the garment we. that you have to be concerned about it's
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the production rates that you have to be concerned about this to one of the law just exporters of both objects and on this in the wood so all of the waste is just like we're going to i think i back you know what it is still something that benoit being able to do with the amount of the reproducing elements that. they'd bought a mental implications of watering and the situation is only getting worse by the day due to the surging demand for products use of chemicals the need for landfill space energy and water consumption. into a new fifteen zero one. and that fashion industry used up about seventy nine billion meant to kill so that's that's huge and the single t. shirt is about two thousand seven hundred twenty does a flock of which is as much as most adults were drinking and that is a single t.
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shirt. then of course that toxic stuff that leach in the production you know process itself which then impacts the going to do around which fractures come. due diligence from does used funds to set up the company twenty twelve now they have nearly twenty employees the seeds of inspiration are saum while the fabric waste is being sorted. once all of the subject comes into the studio we start thinking about what kind of designs can bring all of them together we start fixing the fabrics in itself so that they can actually be used for either to create the clothes that we work with. that's not all the all to produce bags and other items and the scraps from their own production going to making other new products as well. whatever's left over after the bag and the collection is then sent to be processed into people this paper is what is now making our stationery
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products. and now our next steps are actually to think about what to do with boston zoom of east. india doodle e just considered a somewhat expensive brand with garments costing between fifty to one hundred euros . president. since that first set up shop dude league has shown a collection every year at the lakme fashion week. fashion week is a premier biannual event in india it's a way of reinforcing the idea that trend based fashion is not the only way to remain viable in order to. talk to everyone interested in fashion and design
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or even other designers share their philosophy. they just keep questioning you at every level as to why you do what you do and at some point we've just given up that it's ok it's ok for not understanding what we're doing but. it's about how we want to do it and how we want to. you know the products that. the labels products are already available in thirty stores in india and also to some stores but. there's still a long way to go. not everyone realizes how bad an effect. truths. are expanding out of testament to that this next experience will help you make an informed choice the next time you go out to buy a t. shirt. how harmful is a t.
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shirt for the environment. it's fun to buy a new t. shirt and it's usually cheap too but the environment pays the high price why. cotton is grown in monocultures and needs must be very geisha it takes an average two and a half thousand liters of water to make one single t. shirt. the cotton is treated with pesticides sixteen percent of the world's purses signs are used in cotton fields and these toxic chemicals can pollute the ground water. and then there's all the energy that is consumed to make two shirts electricity is needed to transform ror cotton into yarn. and finally look at production conditions eighty percent of the world's garment workers are women overworked and underpaid they manufacture your t. shirt for a pittance which is why it's so cheap. after production all these teachers are transported around the world part of the up to eleven kilograms of c o two
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emissions per t. shirt. so next time you go shopping think about how many t. shirts you really need. now high street fashion with dedicated time and effort into finding more. amsterdam based fashion for good is the world's museum dedicated to sustainable fashion innovation and one of its biggest mandates is to help us if we think how clothes are bought and discarded. just go shopping in any big european city and it's the same picture one clothing store after another but the lucrative textile industry is harmful to the environment which is why many big clothing chains around the fire response some of them are supporting a museum in amsterdam called fashion for good it explores solutions to the problem right at the entrance visitors learn that since. thetic polyester fibers can take
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over two hundred years to decompose so clearly there's a need for alternatives one side of bringing this innovation is through working with big brands retailers manufacturers to help scale some of those innovators and startups that we work with but another really important piece of the puzzle is to also engage the wider public visitors to the museum can have organic cotton t. shirts printed with their own designs and the museum combines information and commerce by offering the exhibit for sale. if you. always keep purchasing that's the principle behind fast fashion there aren't even just seasonal designs anymore instead there are new collections every few weeks the museum offers tips on how to avoid fast fashion such as buying less or buying second hand visitors can save the suggestions on a personal wristband then when they leave they get
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a list of good resolutions for every day shopping. the museum is mainly funded by retail giant sink looting c.n.a. and online shops the land. visitors though aren't told that. companies that are partnering with us they are on all their mentions already. pretty deeply committed to driving change you've seen that through the. reports that they have. published and our other transparent about their work you also see that through certain collections some of them are presented here in the good they're really pushing the envelope in terms of new solutions. sustainability is fashionable with the urban middle class and the fashion industry wants to profit from that a trend that can't be overlooked trade fairs like burlington's fashion week truly green labels or fair fashion have to prove they're completely sustainable from
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fabric production to dying to finishing and that makes them expensive but the amsterdam museum hardly mentions that aspect. it's an exhibition actually founded by special brands so the same dress sustainable sustainable this is a new brand actually it's remote and you can use that. from your clothes so i think it's very important to have a deeper look to see what's really behind them. in amsterdam the textile giants are getting inspiration from startups that are bringing new ideas into the fashion industry such as using recycled materials or natural dyes instead of synthetic ones . the big companies meet with the startups in workshops the museum has received twenty million euros from sponsors to fund them. works for one of the startups and i think it's very important on the one hand to have a program where you connect the big companies to good grades ideas that are there
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so there are like lots of solutions for all the problem problems we have. but they have to get out there and the big companies the big brands if they change even a little bit there's a bigger impact. those who don't want to wait for that to have. can't get actives themselves to slow down the fast fashion cycle. now the chemicals used to me can die fabrics are often toxic for the environment and for the workers in fact ninety nine percent of all dice are made from two chemicals a france based company believes has found a way to make dice which let's see how. you get. this may look like modern art but it's virtually
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a natural process at work believe it or not these blue color trails are made by bacteria. you're known for decades that microorganisms can produce pigments were doing today a purely as expanding their production to an industrial scale with a view to replacing the production of patrol chemical dyes worldwide. don't. share the need blanche and. say they're the first to study this extraordinary natural process they're the founders of the french startup believe based in toulouse they see these microorganisms this great allies that could be used to color all our clothes without any chemicals for years they work to identify the microorganisms best able to produce color. these microorganisms contain two talks of enzymes firstly enzymes that comprised down sugar molecules from detroit for
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example and secondly enzymes that can reassemble those molecular fragments to make colorful dye more cubes. in two thousand and fifteen they finally developed a low carbon method to obtain pigment for dying textiles it's a method that's in used for centuries in the food industry you know we allow these microorganisms to ferment to bit mike fermenting beer. but instead of consuming sugar to make alcohol the microorganisms are consuming sugar to make dies. because of that. it takes a week and warm temperatures for the blue pigment to appear the substance is then tried to obtain a biodegradable powder. who power is suitable for dyeing different types of fabric depending on the formulas we apply we can produce colors ranging from burgundy to light blue. this biotechnology could change the face of the fashion industry. the textile industry
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is one of the most polluting sectors in the world. it uses a huge amount of chemicals to make. one hundred kilos of petroleum are needed to make one kill or die on our every day clothes there's a kilo of petroleum just for the diet. if we take just one piece of clothing like a t. shirt or a pair of trousers for instance ten to forty percent of its environmental impact. believe has set its focus on india and china the biggest textile produces the company dreams of transforming the whole production chain making it more sustainable could believe help to lose return to its heyday when the city was the capital of blue. during the in a sense the french city blossomed thanks to the pastel blue business the soft blue
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dye was derived from a local plant but the flourishing industry slowly declined from the early nineteenth century. nowadays to loose has abandoned the industrial scale production of the natural pigment but there are still finds throughout the city that hark back to the glory days of the business. dates back to the time and has special significance to police c.e.o. . on this. one day billy could offer the city of columbus a beautiful building like this because it was built by people who were selling pastel bloom during the renaissance period. purely we are effectively going back to the story of to lose because they were creating dies out of plants until the nineteenth century then petrochemicals arrived now we want to develop again a production made out of renewable materials. and over. so far the
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startup has produced several kilos of dolly powder with the help of the bacteria but they will need to improve the process if they're to compete with petro chemical dies to its use costs they're planning to use i could cultural waste as a substitute for sugar. but it's an easy one it's a big advantage is that we can take all of the leftovers like stands leaves or other parts of the crop and use them as a source of carbon so we can kill two birds with one stone. by twenty twenty one seventy plash and his team expect to be producing several tons of dipole to a year we might then be able to find clothes without pigment but they would need more time more money and more production capacity to become a serious alternative to the petrochemicals industry.
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traditional crafts in india have offered relied on natural substances for generations and indian dried straw was incomplete without a but not. a sixty odd one the government hand will win in sync with the gold and silver threat. but how do we really astounding into a dying art as we was increasingly turn to mechanized power looms that churn out in large quantities of synthetic and cheaper saudis now some indian designers have stepped in to save the iconic sorry and keep the cry for life. but a nazi hindus to wash away the sins in the river go some to die and be committed. but it isn't just the city. i heard. it's also. saris with silk and gold. with
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a distinctive look and feel. it's. a must have for stylish indian women. the fabrics of spawn. operated by a string of punch cards the determine the designs of the. looms the foot. the physically demanding work is mostly done by men so. it can take weeks to make a single start. but scenes like this increasing. the centuries old artistic tradition. in the past there would have been a wooden handle in every home and. entire families in these villages around but an
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r.c. involved in reading skills were passed on from generation to generation until this happened. thanks in the last decade but enough to see the arrival of machines churning out cheap stuff. and wiping out the handle and just. made the switch. he sold us fifteen hand and invested in far woodlands and still. many artisans before still look for work in other sectors. and it makes me very sad. but i have to embrace new technology in order to make a living. production is now much faster i don't have to do backbreaking work anymore. unlike hand these machines can run during the day as well as at night and
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i make much more money. in the own markets about an i.c. that's hardly a trace of the city's one switch beating tradition machine made fabric and imported chinese made fun dominate the trade we're really excited but there is a solution to save the handle industry. is a designer invest in us his company still makes a few handmade saris for the high end indian market. where they can retail for upwards of two thousand dollars but the market is changing just so. you know there's a margin and he produces and crafted fabrics for luxury fashion houses in the u.s. and in europe. the end up is designed to wear on catalogs prices can be as high as four hundred dollars a meter. so sit back by mentioning no times have changed there isn't much of
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a market left in india for people handle i'm sorry. the industry needs to reinvent itself. to go with international buyers because they really value craftsmanship and handmade products right and they're willing to pay much higher prices. back in the village that is allowed to employ thirty two families on a regular basis. or the leaders here own between one hundred twenty to two hundred fifty dollars a month depending on the work and the skill. it's really about the market creates. the hope is that it will encourage artisans to stay true to the unique craft when you create something with your hand your brain your muscle that's what some emotion that effort bad thing is that makes him go to a limited extent and always of course is a big thing when they when they come before although they've told us i don't farm that said our home that's our debate. so it's all the more it's all for us there's
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a lot of all our happiness is something the norm so i think it's an incredible see in terms of face time are you can see they more somebody here who can making the singletons of hand-woven fabric. and entire chain of artisans specialize in different skills. up to sixteen different workers a part of the process. for the artisans weaving for the global market means adapting the know how and learning to innovate. began beating when he was ten years old. learning the skills from his own father. he's been making since armies all his life. with these modern designs i really have to concentrate the finish and craftsmanship for these fabrics as. a body as a body i can't afford to make any mistakes because then i have to restart the
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entire process i have to constantly check the design and. it takes longer than making a sari. initiatives like helping to sustain the artisans and keep the craft a life. of peace cannot come. but change seems inevitable and the future remains uncertain. i would love to feel you'd be felt all the news knowing i'm going to be bothered any more than this cough cough and develop the problem the doc like a bit aspirational goals that are on the bed this basically this all for them is a sort of diving that's the biggest challenge because after theni of there's no reverse at all and in this industry. if one of the c's remaining hand looms what to fall completely silent. it would mock the disappearance not just of a craft. but the way of life. i hope to be stories
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made in germany thirty minutes on the. small cuts can inspire big changes in some people making it possible eco africa. fantastic right trying that as they set out to safe environments. to learn from one another. and work together for a better future. see for yourself. ninety minutes on d w. earth first dance school in the jungle. or first clean lesson and then the doors grand moment to run and join the arena tango on her journey back to freedom in our
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interactive documentary giora entering it and returns. for. president of the long. end of the london patriotic front to include the rebel army and to the one nine hundred ninety four genocide wasn't when total in the rooms there was and when to ask to be you've been taught me to reinforce them. i knew this but goes up and he was not following in a group. of controversial leader who successors beyond question. time. wanted tragedy starts able for a long t.w. .
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place. blame. as the news live from berlin a landmark anniversary for the world's strongest military alliance needle marks of the seventieth birthday as president trump offers warm words for the alliance's leader and another rebuke for germany. also coming up. this is a decisive moment in the story of these islands i don't require national unity to
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