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tv   Arts and Culture  Deutsche Welle  April 5, 2019 8:45pm-9:01pm CEST

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and a new london exhibition celebrates the work and influence of iconic british fashion designer mary quant. throughout this year there are numerous event celebrating the one hundredth anniversary of the beginning of the bauhaus school one of the most influential movements of art and design in the twentieth century and is still influencing our design all over the world today but our house was founded by visor copius in the city of volume ah i'm not sworn in a new museum as to celebrate the anniversary and includes every day by our house designs some of which maybe you'll recognize. together let us conceive and create the new building of the future those were the goals of foul house according to their founding manifesto from nine hundred nineteen one hundred years later the city of weimar has erected a new monument to this global modernist movement the chief curator for architecture and design from new york's museum of modern art has flown over it especially for
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the unveiling that is at the commons is just going on one hand you can definitely say that modern visual culture and our current visual culture is impossible to imagine without bauhaus it's become part of our d.n.a. so that we almost don't notice it anymore on the other hand and this seems even more important to me the ideas of bauhaus are still in our heads as an enduring utopia. or topi on seeing the cup because it's prime are his spent twenty seven million euros and three and a half years building this minimalist concrete cuba on the site where bounce was founded it's a treasure chest holding the world's oldest down house collection from founder vantage point he was himself some one hundred sixty eight works the famous table lamp from vilhelm bogen feld and kolya. mounting on a bronstein. the ceramics of. two thousand square metres of exhibition space over five floors the structure was built to reflect an
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industrial workshop the exhibit is meant to spark debate not eulogize the past since how much semen of the weimar classic foundation thus gets us to day but we can only understand it now that one can see the bow and also museum puts the sound close we remain today to the incredible developments of one thousand nine hundred and the following years and for them in addition to tons i think this will really change our city that socially each business got food and that was. the building as a symbolic rebuke to the nazis stamped on the bounce house movement in germany. forcing a fraud. you know that's exactly what i think we need to pay attention to today that our needs this openness and the ability to provoke about house with an institution that cross borders that survived and thrived on the diaspora without open borders that wouldn't have happened and without them it can't happen today i
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think you talk to me often occurrence in the midst almost needs to get as a whole to. getting its modern digital technology the light something concrete the sun out of the new bauhaus museum just as darkness descends on by mom. now the market for muslim fashion is growing exponentially while by the fine arts museum in san francisco is the first museum to explore the complex and diverse dress codes of muslim fashions now what became a controversial exhibition has transferred to europe to a museum in frankfurt and the discussions go on my colleague scott will join me for more in a minute but first let's have a look at the exhibition. a security check at the museum of applied arts in frankfurt all that's inside is an exhibit of modern muslim fashion but that was enough to attract sharp criticism and violent threats the clothes themselves hardly seem shocking they look fashionable modern even chic the for some women's rights
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activists the exhibit is a slap in the face the iranian born monica cassini has been fighting for years to free muslim women forced to wear the headscarf this is for me it's an instrument of torture to see it here in a secular society in a museum paid by public funds it's propaganda presented as fashion often. does propaganda. propaganda the museum rejects this accusation the exhibit they say is not about repression and restrictions just the opposite in fact. just it's about young muslim women and non muslims to. exerting their right to decide to wear modest less revealing clothing kokesh modest. and if they want to wear a hit or not you travel to a tourist destination one side speaks about the freedom to wear
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a headscarf the other about women being forced to do so there's no easy solution to the debate so says scholar of islam but one script is in which there is repression in our muslim communities towards women who would like to take off their head scarves who don't want to wear one at all if they are told they're dressing like a western woman that a muslim can't dress that way and i think you have to take that into consideration when you present islamic dress as fashion and islamic. as mordor in sr does fashion reflect institutional political power structures or is it an expression of individual freedom this is at the core of the frankfurt exhibit and wherever you stand on the issues a topic worthy of debate. we will now briefly with our colleague scott rockstro now this exhibition was in san francisco before coming to frank was controversial that was controversial but not nearly as much as it was here in frankfurt and the debate there seemed to be more about young muslim
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women and how they see themselves and see their fashion and that a lot of young muslim with women see this type of modest fashion as liberating as a way of expressing a different identity then maybe the sort of male gaze of the of the modern western fashion industry which they see as being sort of sexist and exploitive and so there's some of these young muslim women who call themselves the job is those which is a combination of he job and fashionista and and they present themselves completely differently they present themselves as really as as hip as as as modern as liberated so they're not they show themselves not as being oppressed women forced to cover up but rather women who chose a different identity than the one offered them by western capitalist society. i mean so it's very different then to. the discussion going on
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here in frankfurt or in germany or in europe yeah yeah and i think it's interesting because i think i think maybe points a difference between europe and america and i think in america broadly people look at the first think of freedom as the freedom to do things so the freedom to say what you want the freedom to dress the way you want the freedom to practice religion the way you want so i'm not saying there isn't a lot of anti islamic sentiment in in the us but i think you'd find far fewer people who say that muslims aren't allowed to dress the way they want where here in europe i think we see a lot of people see freedom more in terms of the freedom from things the freedom from oppression the freedom from violence and so when it comes to this issue of muslim fashion i think a lot of people in europe look at it more in terms of oppression and not in terms of individual expression as we saw in france with the ban on headscarves of public institutions yeah of course of course the ban the burka and of course very famously
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recently the ban on the burqini this modest muslim swimsuit that they had been at the king of course was also part of the part of the exhibit and there's a lot of the debate around it. it is interesting because of this issue itself on the burqini is something that we your daughter bella took on recently did a web video looking at the burqini look at the issues around it and we looked at also the fact that controversy over women fashion is nothing new also nothing new in the western world we compare the puny to the issues around the bikini when it became first came out it was also banned on european beaches back then it was women had to cover up now with the burqini being bad women have to take off some of their clothes when they go to the beach i don't know their discussions are going to go on . scott thanks very much for coming in. fashion of a different kind of also controversial in its time mary quant is synonymous with
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the swinging sixty's when london was the center of the world when it came to music and fashion kong was the driving force behind a mini skirt hot pants a much more the victoria and albert museum in london is celebrating her iconic status in a new exhibition which shows how she led the way bringing daring unexciting fashions to the high street. for a mini skirts and vinyl dresses two vibrant tights and makeup. two hundred items tell the story of how mary quant change fashion forever included are garments donated by the public and never before seen pieces from the designer's own archives. the exhibition charts twenty years of one's work from its beginnings in the mid one nine hundred fifty s. in london's chelsea district. stablished shop in one thousand
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fifty five it was the famous bazaar betake on the king's road and we at that point were coming out of britain as coming out of post-war austerity rationing is still in place until nine hundred fifty four and in many ways that play is a real reaction against that time this is going to go and that gentleman means legs no longer hidden under dirty jeans is mary quant but exposed once more in the long leg. so what else is new. quite quickly the brand was very successful shaping the second store she tapped into this atmosphere this mean for change and for new clothes to go with women's lives and so we tell that story how it relied on marketing and publicity in magazines. mary quant made her name by originality a style that will forever be associated with quantity is the mini skirt. throughout the decade hemlines gradually rose by nine hundred sixty six the term
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mini skirt was in white usage it became a symbol of the swinging sixty's and women's liberation but it was also a polarizer a splint learned in her shop from the beginning it was a getting out of there with one lot of young men to bring in their girlfriends and raving about everything and there were not a lot of sort of city gents. on the window with. rage the exhibition also shows how quantum braced mass production techniques bringing her striking styles to ordinary shop has now more being introduced this time by many clearing the nineteen seventies the designer expanded her remit to include items like curtains and bed linens. that she raises hope the show will finally gonna quanta the recognition she deserves that think now is really the perfect time to celebrate a woman with an amazing read to inspired so many different women and liberated them
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from traditional rules and regulation. fans can catch the exhibition at london's victorian albert museum until february next year. that's it for today moral mary quant on the other topics on our show on our website . called slash culture the show is on the website as well if you want to say the guys from myself and all the crew here in by then.
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this is g.w. news why but from berlin tonight a plan that could take breaks it into major overtalk european union proposes a flexible twelve month delay for the u.k. but british prime minister theresa may once said soon or by june thirtieth what will it be also coming up tonight the libyan capital under.

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