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tv   Arts and Culture  Deutsche Welle  April 6, 2019 4:02am-4:15am CEST

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welcome to news from the world. well being in the city of volume to have a look at the new bauhaus museum that also coming up. an exhibition exploring the complexity and diversity of muslim fashion arrives in frankfurt. and a new london exhibition celebrates the work and influence of iconic british fashion designer mary quant. throughout this year there are numerous event celebrating the one hundredth anniversary of the beginning of the bauhaus school one of the most influential movements of art and design in the twentieth century and is still influencing our design all over the world today but our house was founded by visor gropius in the city of volume i'm not swear a new museum has to celebrate the anniversary and includes every day bauhaus
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designs some of which maybe you'll recognize. together let us conceive and create the new building of the future those were the goals of our house according to their founding manifesto from nine hundred nineteen one hundred years later the city of via mar has erected a new monument to this global modernist movement the chief curator for architecture and design from new york's museum of modern art has flown over especially for the unveiling that is i think all of the shows up and on one hand you can definitely say that modern visual culture and our current visual culture is impossible to imagine without bauhaus it's become part of our d.n.a. so that we almost don't notice it anymore on the other hand and this seems even more important to me the ideas about house are still in our heads as an enduring utopia. autopia only seen the cup because it's weimar has spent twenty seven million euros and three and a half years building this minimalist concrete cuba on the site where bounce was
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founded it's a treasure chest holding the world's oldest bauhaus collection from founder vantage don't use himself some one hundred sixty eight works the famous table lamp from vilhelm fog and thousand kolya. bronstein. the ceramics of. two thousand square metres of exhibition space over five floors the structure was built to reflect an industrial workshop the exhibit is meant to spark debate not human giants the past says helmet seaman of the weimar planets accommodation thus the let's just be if we can only understand it now that one can see the bow and also museum that's the sound close we remain today to the incredible developments of one thousand nine hundred and the following years and for them in addition often means i think this will really change our city that social issue because it's got to undo us. the thing is a symbolic rebuke to the nazis first downtown the bauhaus movement in germany.
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forcing a broad. now that's exactly what i think we need to pay attention to today that our needs this openness and the ability to provoke the bauhaus with an institution that cost borders that survived and thrived on the diaspora without open borders that wouldn't have happened then and without them it can't happen today i think it taught me often occurrence in the midst almost needs to get itself or to. sitting in its modern digital technology the light something concrete facade of the new bauhaus museum just as darkness descends on by my. now the market for muslim fashion is growing exponentially while by the fine arts museum in san francisco is the first museum to explore the complex and diverse dress codes of muslim fashions now what became a controversial exhibition has transferred to europe to a museum in frankfurt and the discussions go my colleague scott will join me for
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more in a minute but first let's have a look at the exhibition. a security check at the museum of applied arts in frankfurt all that's inside is an exhibit of modern muslim fashion but that was enough to attract sharp criticism and violent threats the clothes and selves hardly seen shocking they look fashionable modern even chic for some women's rights activists the exhibit is a slap in the face the iranian born monica cassini has been fighting for years to free muslim women forced to wear the headscarf this is for me it's an instrument of torture to see it here in a secular society in a museum paid by public funds it's propaganda presented as fashion. it does propaganda. propaganda the museum rejects its accusation the exhibit they say is not about repression and restrictions just the opposite in fact.
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it's about young muslim women and non muslims to. exerting their right to decide to wear modest less revealing clothing kokesh modest. and if they want to wear a hit or not and he traveled it doesn't aged one side speaks about the freedom to wear a headscarf the other about women being forced to do so there's no easy solution to the debate says this scholar of islam. in which there is repression in our muslim communities towards women who would like to take off their head scarves who don't want to wear one at all they are told they're dressing like a western woman but a muslim can't dress that way and i think you have to take that into consideration when you present islamic dress as fashion and islam. as mordor in sr does fashion reflect institutional political power structures or is it an expression of individual freedom this is at the core of the frankfurt exhibit fand
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wherever you stand on the issues a topic worthy of debate. we will now briefly with my colleague scott rocks now this exhibition was in san francisco before coming to frank was controversial that was controversial but not nearly as much as it was here in frankfurt and the debate there seemed to be more about young muslim women and how they see themselves and see their fashion and that a lot of young muslim with women see this type of modest fashion as liberating as a way of expressing a different identity then maybe the sort of male gaze of the of the modern western fashion industry which they see as being sort of sexist and exploitive and so there's some of these young muslim women who call themselves he which is a combination of he job and fashionista and and they present themselves completely
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differently they present themselves as really as as hip as as as modern as as liberated so they're not they show themselves not as being oppressed women forced to cover up but rather women who chose a different identity than the one offered them by western capitalist society. i mean so it's very different then to. the discussion going on here in frankfurt or in germany or in europe yeah yeah and i think it's interesting because i think i think it maybe points a difference between europe and america and i think in america broadly people look at the first think of freedom as the freedom to do things the freedom to say what you want the freedom to dress the way you want the freedom to practice religion the way you want so i'm not saying there isn't a lot of anti islamic sentiment in in the u.s. but i think you'd find far fewer people who say that muslims are allowed to dress the way they want where here in europe i think we see
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a lot of people see freedom more in terms of the freedom from things the freedom from oppression the freedom from violence and so when it comes to this issue of muslim fashion i think a lot of people in europe look at it more in terms of oppression and not in terms of individual expression as a resort in france with the ban on headscarves of public institutions yeah of course of course the ban the burka and of course very famously recently the ban on the burqini this modest muslim swimsuit that they had been at the king of course was also part of the part of the exhibit and there's a lot of the debate around it. it is interesting because of this issue itself on the burqini is something that we your daughter bella took on recently did a web video looking at the burqini look at the issues around it and we look to also at the fact that the controversy over women fashion is nothing new also nothing new in the western world you can bet that the kini to the issues around the bikini when
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the bikini first came out it was also banned on european beaches back then it was women had to cover up now with the burqini being bad women have to take off some of their clothes when they go to the beach i don't know discussions are going to go. scott thanks very much for coming in. fashion of a different kind also controversial in its time mary quant is synonymous with the swinging sixty's when london was the center of the world when it came to music and fashion was the driving force behind a mini skirt hot pants a much more the victoria and albert museum in london is celebrating her iconic status in the new exhibition which shows how she led the way bringing daring an exciting fashions to the high street. for a mini skirts and vinyl dresses to vibrant tights and makeup. two hundred items tell the story of how mary quant change fashion forever included
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are garments donated by the public and never before seen pieces from the designer's own archives. the exhibition charts twenty years of one's work from its beginnings in the mid one nine hundred fifty s. in london's chelsea district. step left her shop in one thousand fifty five it was the famous bazaar beachy on the king's road and really at that point where coming out of britain is coming out of post-war austerity rationing is still in place and on one hundred fifty four and in many ways that play is a real reaction against that time this is a ring again and that gentleman means legs no longer hidden under dirty jeans is mary quant but expose once more in the long legged show what else is new. quite quickly the brand was very successful shaping the second store she tapped into this atmosphere this me to change and for new ways to go with women's lives
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and so we tell that story how it relied on marketing and publicity in magazines. mary quant made a name by originality a style that will forever be associated with quantity is the mini skirt. throughout the decade hemlines gradually rose by nine hundred sixty six the term mini skirt was in white usage it became a symbol of the swinging sixty's and women's liberation but it was also a polarizer a squint learned in her shop from the beginning it was a getting out of there with one lot of young men to bring in their girlfriends and raving about everything and there were not a lot of sort of city gents. on the window with their. outrage the exhibition also shows how quantum braced mass production techniques bringing her striking styles to ordinary shoppers now are being introduced this time by many
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clearing the one nine hundred seventy s. the designer expanded her remit to include items like could tins and bed linens. the curators hope the show will finally gonna quantz the recognition she deserves i think now is really the perfect time to celebrate a woman with an amazing career to inspired so many different women and liberated them from traditional rules and regulation. fans can catch the exhibition at london's victoria and albert museum until february next year. and that's it for today moral mary quant on the other topics on our show on our website at. slash culture the show is on the website as well if you want to say it again for myself and all the crew here and by then.
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nico is in germany to learn german. i learned from the. why not learn with him online along the mobile free stuff from the w e learning course because vic. you know that seventy seven percent. are younger than sixty five. that's me and me and you. and you know what it's time no voice is part. of the seventy seven percent issue. this is where you. said.

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