so they can plant crops and find food. floods and droughts will climate change become the main driver of mass migration you can write any apocalyptic scenarios you want and probably most of them to come true. connotates of it starts to feel thirty s. on t w. till it is most famous son joseph stalin full and but unforgotten. modern protest is demonstrate against putin. a legend russian war crimes in the two thousand and eight conflict. the grave of a victim of that rousseau georges ball. and a border that is not supposed to be called the border. although it's not the whole of the mode of the whole i'm going to write that georgia is divided into of course

that's north of think. you know so odds are almost today but this may sound very dystopian owners of years ago but russia could divide this country. and keep a piece of it for itself others. not enough. to split up it did and it's got this piece of graffiti says we remember off so it was probably sprayed here just yesterday i did it you can see the red devil in the background of all the dates from the past two centuries in which russia did bad things to was georgians talk of good stuff oh good such a lot of people know nothing about the states or still worse it says they know them and still don't get that russia is our enemy is now let's head to the. he's.

daddy's company as debut novel and this place has won the most prestigious georgian literature awards. even as to find out where georgia and its nearly four million inhabitants are headed first stop this demonstration in the capital tbilisi. it's a strange mixture the protesters include leftists and far right extremists feminists and gays and homophobes what seems to unite them is their nationalism ogust two thousand and eight so the flare up of the growing conflict the research georgian born lasted five days claimed eight hundred fifty lives and displaced many thousands. since then russia has occupied the former georgian territories of a posse and south ossetia an area amounting to a fifth of the country. the slogan on the sign a vulgar equivalent of pittsburgh at last.

i am. dubbed it is meeting some friends in front of the swiss embassy switzerland has been mediating between georgia and russia because the two countries have no direct diplomatic relations. images from the war human rights groups say both sides committed abuses us at the tbilisi rally only the russian war crimes are on the agenda. the public humiliation of georgian soldiers depicted here made a lasting impression on davi. song oh i don't know why i have to admit that the sheer power of russia makes me feel insecure all. this giant empire all of us alone and it's hard to fight against it. that's why i have this feeling of being completely unprotected. now as. this focused on

the russian president. and the nationalistic euphoria that followed georgian independence in ninety ninety one the country's ethnic minorities when left out of the equation as effectively thrust into the arms of the russian. it was. an eighty five kilometer drive from tbilisi the city of gori. dubbed it is heading to his next stop the joseph stalin museum. the. city built in the soviet era the museum is a bizarre memorial to the brutal dictator joseph is our universe starting it paints a picture of a benevolent father of his country. that. many of the visitors here are curious western tourists but some are genuine fans of

stalin who make the pilgrimage to the strike that is dedicated to one of the worst mass murderers of the twentieth century. up. in the museum they say that most of the stalin supporters come from russia. but no one is willing to say that to the camera i. think they're neat. when daddy sees the pictures here he can't stop thinking of the atrocities of the stalin era in particular the so-called great purge of nine hundred thirty seven to thirty eight during which more than one hundred twenty georgian intellectuals were executed. dotted says that swears germany has taken steps to come to grips with its nazi history. roger has done very little to publicly reappraise stunning.

quotes i don't mark of. an old museum which was built back then to glorify started the post mistress a group since then nothing has been changed. nothing has been added to it without just a few pieces of information that mentions stalin's purges and the repression that us and stalin have it's a propaganda museum. but nowadays a lot of people view it as a kind of museum of museums. one tiny room is devoted to the war of two thousand and eight. that's maybe a dime a dozen it asks the museum's curator. really why she hasn't changed anything in this uncritical celebration. is. it really hard as it

was a shirtless hansen's this is a museum and we have to tell the story of a man's life in a very short time going through tours when it's about his life and work the more that was said to people back then all the material came from the communist party master today we try to show the man. a very isolated man by the way. a loner. who ruled over a land with one hundred seventy million people. or syllabuses and more and all of the negative material i see anyone who wants to read that can find it on their computers all over the internet they should our visitors come here to get to know style and the man knows. the slope. and all his travels davi it immediately takes note somebody experiences.

until twenty ten a large statue of stalin student central gori. dubbed it would like to seek out the fallen monument supposedly it's now lying in a disused industrial area outside the town the curator refused to tell him the exact location saying it would be shameful to display the great man in that way. mr please rescue is good very good thing to be nice to the friend of a friend davita gets in touch with a chicken farmer from the area. says sun leads him to the overthrown starting off. with almost all. the two men have a difference of opinion about the fallen dictator. son says he is not a stalinist but he had millions the dictator as

a kind of mystical being. or history shows that it's always the same of course we have a saying in georgia that if it's the times that rain not kids that it's not an insult to stalin stature that someone who's not thinking right can do it here on the scrap yard dog and once you know real history not fake history realize what kind of man he was. please translate this word for word. some would like to see stalin back on his pedestal in central glory. davita is considering working the hypothetical return into his new novel. that would go. wrong but. i haven't thought much about it so far but yes maybe in my pessimistic or dystopian novel it could happen up. i see the current

trend in russia where real stalin's cult is growing again and they show quite openly how much interest they have how they worship him even russian politicians are doing that is another example of how strong russian influence is so well think about that from my book with the governor michelle obama. who are so close that it was a myth in the home office all the million of you ordered. all of. this is not an international border despite what the sign claims georgia on this side of the fence south ossetia and the other georgians call it occupied territory the south the seasons and the russian say an independent state. diplomats refer to this fence as the administers of boundary line.

bandits so much money. it's also expensive for russia to keep it to monitor it and punish us georgians. and then they make such an embarrassing obvious they call the translation. i have no idea how that could have happened that i wrote. the words passage is forbidden is mistranslated into georgian as expenses are forbidden. georgians refuse to call the demarcation line a border because that would mean accepting the division of their country. since two thousand and eight observers from the e.u. monitoring mission in georgia have been patrolling here. in twenty seventeen and. own favorite just add one thousand six hundred incidents

the conflict is ten shabelle here every day. i don't really believe that my little fantasy will actually become reality ga this is fiction i'm like all negative fiction. it is good for me to see this because it helps me matching what has just border in my book might look like. the fence divided the village of the valley overnight again and again georgian pharmacy cross over to work their fields on the south the season site get arrested after being beaten and forced to pay a considerable fine than that. anyone could cross through the line for the third time risks up to two years in jail in south ossetia that happen to neighbors of hama

a form in german teacher. you haven't we have a garden that's right over there on the borderline live if i go over there i can't take my grandchildren because they could be abducted any second by all the farmers and work over there in the garden isn't each and every day people get caught and hauled away you know i live in constant fear. three times suffa season and russian soldiers set fire to thomas house but would she leave the area you never. hear about because this is where i work this is where i live it's my home it's my country it's my village where could i go where would i be allowed to go. that's true right you know what do you think. you cannot leave me my never want to leave i will go on living. in here i will die here and my

children and grandchildren will live here mind their aunt who lived. right next to the highway history of bonnie a settlement built as an emergency shelter ten years ago. that still houses eight thousand of the total thirty thousand ethnic georgians who were expelled from south a seizure. there's a sense of resignation on the streets here via test just been out shopping. he's the only one willing to speak to dive it on camera. a militant you'll never get used to it but what can we do it's very hard for the older people to bear this many of them have already died but the young people are

only now starting to fix up these houses. they have no choice. this is party on the black sea coast. the port city is dilapidated as far as davita can see there's been little development here for years . party is important for the georgian economy but it's not a place many tourists are likely to visit. this is where davi grew up in a working class family his parents still live here as does his sister with whom he's very close.

but although david loves to see his sister cutter and his nieces not her and he says he'd never move back to portie every visit here recalls the negative experiences of his you. openly gay something that can be risky in provincial georgia although his family except his sexuality. david is expounding his theory about the division of the country his sister doesn't buy it. i don't believe georgia would be divided into two parts how could that happen but i simply don't believe it. for delegates nieces dottle as they call him as a kind of cultural trailblazer. he says and he introduces them to unusual literature. today it's especially hard for him to say goodbye.

his come to the hardest part of his journey. on the first day of the two thousand and eight war his cousin shoulda died in a hail of russian bombs. davita couldn't make it from tbilisi to the funeral because all the roads and rail trucks were blocked by russian tanks. since then he has never dared to come here. he often weeps over the thoughts of his nineteen year old cousin who had been accepted to a university in dubai he died the day before he was scheduled to fly out.

shell that was killed while rescuing his wounded comrades he was awarded a posthumous medal for bravery. does it sits at the grave for a long time he doesn't want to talk here. a few hours later we accompany him to his favorite place in portie. davita is relieved to have finally been to the cemetery but the middle doesn't interest him. like to himself as it makes absolutely no differ. to me. this award is

a big consolation to my aunt she's really proud of our. guns and it's a big comfort for her. my pluggers she says but for me tempers i just wish she was still a life that's just not from a bit you know it's but. nothing takes the train back to tbilisi. since its independence nearly three decades ago georgia has undergone visible modernization and the country's political system has developed in parallel to its infrastructure. but still children artists and intellectuals do not feel entirely free.

you can write whatever you want or you can do what you want to not the government won't interfere info but a large part of our society is extremely conservative. and conservative is far too mild a word. and that part of society will not let us live freely. to put it in a nutshell you have the freedom to express yourself but at the same time you don't . is sitting close by has been listening to doubt that she left the country twenty years ago for a life insurance purpose in london. she says that changes in georgia happening much too slowly she comes back once a year and experiences the country as still lacking freedom life as it used to be fat nine states. those things that you paid attention to. it's

a. bad. thing. to police he is the cultural and political center of georgia and its religious center to. the orthodox christian church wields a huge amount of power and by western european standards is very conservative. nowadays does he spends almost more time abroad than here in the old course have to be lisi. from an early age he knew that he wanted to travel which is why he learned german russian and swedish his english is so good that when he was twenty one he was commissioned to translate harry potter into georgian.

after a week of moving around georgia davi it is that. he spends the next few hours typing up his notes from his travels. it started out as a research trip for his new book but some of the stages proved much more emotional than he expected. in the coming months he will be developing his fantasy about the division of georgia into two parts one loyal to russia and one or into tolkien. here at the royal district the attentively see davita and his old friend directed dance had heard say are inspecting the stage set for their production of dov its play tiger and lion.

just. even if he does have believes that artistic freedom is still under threat in georgia. you got the dylan you. would have still totally easy to shock audiences or readers in this country or so which is why there are always attempts to control free speech and origin. more drooly that's also being considered at the government level bonus it's just recently there was another initiative to control artists more strongly but luckily it failed because. six. foot down beat the theatre is a safe haven. even here in tbilisi it is hard to lead an openly gay life. the riots the repressive measures every time someone reveals their sexual identity is up to you there are massive reprisals also in political circles where gay people

are often blackmailed and of course this reaction is not only supported by the georgian church but also instigated rules for much of this is a huge problem and the government can't well chicago won't solve it did the problem are almost at the hospital very. soon. this cafe in the old course have to be lisi is a popular meeting place for artists. daveed is having a discussion with a psychologist friend thomas casually. tama is a member of the georgian ethnic minority of south ossetia. his family was driven out by the war and lived for

a. well in the center of an emergency shelter this. davi tells about his experiences on the trip his first encounter with the administrative boundary line left a deep impression. at the meeting with tom are the german teacher his neighbors are regularly abducted wrote that's pretty funny when you go there it appears that in person the fence stops being a symbol or a cool design at a demonstration of. the trick of totally different emotions especially when you meet people who live five meters away from that fence. i don't want to some sentimental but that was the moment where it became clear to me how differently those villages see the division. of pictures. for them every single day is program of those music. tomo settled in tbilisi some time ago. and look forward not back they wish that more democratic and artistic impulses

would come here from europe. when they start to feel stifled by their country they can find respect by traveling in the west. but for both of them her is georgia.

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blame. blame blame blame blame blame blame blame. blame. this is you that the abuse lives from our lead sudan's protesters day game as authorities threaten to just first stop the demonstrators say that they won't be moved from their city in front of the country's defense ministry they want the military to hand over power and mediately choice civilian government also coming up officials in south.