tomorrow today. w. . on april the twenty fourth two thousand and thirteen the rana plaza complex in bangladesh collapsed crushing to death one thousand one hundred thirty five garment

workers and injuring two thousand more warnings the building was unsafe were ignored there were customer orders to be made on time to satisfy our insatiable demand for fast fashion the horrific news and images shocked the world some people called it the clothing industry's nine eleven it exposed the dark reality of a system out of control too many collections too much consumption too much pressure from shareholders designers burning out globalised fashion has become an all too many ways unsustainable. industry is a never ending loop it's completely insane with new trends what's in what's out what's hot what's not none of that exists now. the only production in fashion at the moment is capital production. there's no cultural production anymore to the system is absurd. the fashion industry produces eighty billion garments every year making

it the second largest polluter in the world second only to oil fashion has become a toxic passion that is destroying us with a grin on its face. we met up with progressive activists who are working to humanize fashion. some have rediscovered weaving others use three d. printers all of them call for ethical creativity and fashion that is sustainable and humane it's a dear to that indifferent superficial fashion a smug parody of itself today another kind of fashion is possible. paris april the twenty fourth two thousand and seventeen four years to the day since the rana plaza disaster a group of fashion activists are commemorating the loss of life what a course of tell us what i could. but the morning i thought ok for them there's

blood on the clothes we buy and wear the culprit is the fashion business their slogan is who made my clothes and they want to put a face to those who keepers and trend. make like. i feel like shouting this is an appeal of the world. they use a frigid prop happenings and internet radio broadcasts of street debates to get their message across. that the rana plaza tragedy was the moment when for the first time i opened my wardrobe to see where the clothes i owned had been mailed logic with it it seemed valise next month before that the town's really government actually caught fire in bangladesh one hundred twelve women died in the flames or by jumping from windows the conditions are truly appalling no one talked about it until every thousand people died in thoughtful humor. the movement is now an international one called fashion revolution.

fashion revolutions aim is to speak out and raise awareness we're convinced we can change fashions ecosystem and to do that we need a grassroots movement. that fashion revolution is calling for transparency as with organic products the idea is to make a garment supply chain traceable they want to see the faces behind the labels via twitter brands a challenge to disclose information the group's anger and frustration are aimed primarily at the multimillion dollar retailers who invented fast fashion. specials of the fast fashion as brands like zorro who showed up in the ninety's with a really new business model it involved producing clothes as cheaply as possible in very poor countries in order to offer innovative collections every three weeks

which made a real contribution to fashion. in this need for constant novelty created a kind of addiction which is pretty harmful for the planet and for people. on november the twelfth two thousand and four for the first time ever the god of earth could cure karl lagerfeld created an affordable collection for h. and m. . friends it crowns of bargain hunters cleaned out the swedish clothing giant stores in just twenty minutes with their rarity enhanced through communication these mass locks design a collaboration so becoming a stereo into singularly ritual. we were perhaps the first industry to come up with the concept of planned obsolescence we claim increasingly sooner that the clothes the products we've created on no longer fit for. and shouldn't be worn.

image the fast fashion giants talk about virtuous circles and recycling initiatives . but they continue to overproduce close at lower and lower cost than cement if you can post their last week in paris i saw a poster for a little bikini top that cost four euros ninety five cents and i felt sick to my stomach but it was a very complicated bikini top as well with a small very well stitched triangle. when you look at the photo you know there is usually two euro's worth of thread one euro of material plus shipping marketing costs and so on. crystal meth this thing should have cost i reckon at least i think. it's cheaper than

a sandwich it's intolerable because it's teaching people that it has no value. every season ater court publishers her trend predictions she's regarded as an author r.t. even when she challenges the convictions of the somewhat closed world of fashion she is currently dean of hybrid studies at parsons new york for more than thirty years her trend books have been the bible of fashion editors and brands alike. this color that will be the season's favorite. one year after the rana plaza building collapse she published plenty fashion an upbeat damning manifesto addressing the fashion system's failings. i couldn't carry on pretending that everything was fine when i felt very strongly that it wasn't that it wasn't fun. because i love

fashion and i really enjoyed all the years i spent working in the system. and i'm not a negative or an activist that isn't my thing. called has no illusions she can see fashion becoming greedy and for a young designers are trying to become hyperactive divas essential crafts and skills are disappearing and it is our for profit has seen designers deprived of their creativity she believes that instead of reflecting the spirit of the age fashion has itself become outdated just that i would change everything in fashion it's sad and at the same time very exciting as it anti fashion has become fashionable it's become a movement more. anti fashion it's a term used with increasing frequency it's now even a movement the anti fashion project which holds its general assembly in must say world capital of this radical call for change. because we

believed we would have taken a degree of infiniteness by consuming and reinventing people another belief has been shattered. that is that. for three days thinkers and fan fashion activists joined forces with emerging brands outraged designers students and dandies to give fashion a make over. we decided to reinvent sneakers to create a pair that respected people as well as the environment and that vision was born. founded in two thousand and four vision was one of the first brands to combine cool with ecological awareness. of the loss of p. is to firstly deconstruct the entire production chain that improve each stage it's a mix of fair trade organic awareness and social inclusion. by wild rubber in the amazon rain forest we buy our organic cotton directly we know all the producers

. and it's a totally transparent approach as for marketing we don't shine the spotlight on a top model or athlete but rather on the way in which our sneakers are made. with an annual turnover of over eight million euros has shown that a moral conscience and shoot profits can go hand in hand responsible fashion however represents only around five percent of global sales fast fashions frantic and environmentally toxic canada has become the norm plus it upsets creative rhythms. working to such tight time scales obviously has an impact on designers sometimes they'll food products in stores inspired by their own creations before they've even supplied their own clients. this evidently impacts on the creative process too there's also a need to be increasingly present and to crank out new collections faster and

faster than in the late one nine hundred ninety s. with globalization and the advent of fast fashion the world of kids you underwent major changes independent fashion houses were bought up by multinationals and fashion became the biggest money spinners of these luxury empires which open new stores all over the world in two thousand and seventeen the global luxury goods to reach sales of over a quarter of a trillion euros with a pressure of stock prices monitored in real time by shareholders the fashion business changed the race was on to continually develop new product innovations and produce them in greater numbers became impossible for designers to keep up the murderous pace. three of them can come up with sixteen collections a year while maintaining a consistent brand image the designer is in the public eye so they're a kind of brand ambassador but someone who's used to working in a studio making clothes cannot comprehend that they suddenly have to give instructions were mentally and that the nature of their work has changed with.

designers today aren't really designers or players make them managers and that can be really traumatic. among designers this new pace has been a factor in burnout and worse in twenty eleven john galliano's anti semitic outburst seems like career suicide the designer was exhausted and strung out on drugs to your fight him. not long before about the suicide of alexander mcqueen at the height of his fame rocked the fashion world in two thousand and fifteen raf simmons and alba albinos walked out of your long in the space of ten years the figure of the one out designer has become the cliche of a creatively sterile system. call it remember. of the fashion world over the last thirty years and the late eighty's and the ninety s. you have the big names. helmut lang.

who proved that clothes were no longer just clothes that they could be part of the history of design in the history of art that's when clothes started addressing societal it was even. on the questions of gender japanese minimalism which reflected a crisis a country in transformation. the prophet to futurism fashion became a very active and very aware member of society. there and people realized all of a sudden we were facing and you engage the temporality of fashion a system that totally distorted the intentions. of fashion image has cannibalized new media blogs and social networks the brands all post frantically on instagram v.i.p. fashion shows are a thing of the past connections are revealed in real time meanwhile internet users create their own clothes shows one collection follows the next in a never ending hypnotic but shallow stream with instagram the outsiders preferred

medium can deliver an alternative message to. say how do you go about creating desire for a garment would you call the fact is if you don't desire a garment you don't buy it because you want to buy it when you've seen it looking good somewhere. and then you wonder looking good where. girls don't actually buy fashion magazines anymore they check out instagram . instagram is the virtual showroom of some years the idea of a designer and anti fashion activist spotted by shawn sharda cast about jock she goes to places fashion ignores and wants to tackle the to boost of her time. and even bringing my designs here makes them come alive fashion magazine photos don't always do it for me i have a problem with studio shoots i like life having people in the background people

watching even something going wrong nothing is planned. here. so me as the idea is perhaps the quintessential digital native. that's great just her hands she is part of a generation who are done with the immediate allure of capitalism and who are instead searching for meaning. what i've come here with a transparent head scarf to take away its dark religious aspect the fact it frightens people and so on to show that it's basically just an item of clothing one that i've turned into a fashion accessory. it isn't religious clothing at all even if there is a nod to that i repurposed close but with a touch of humor it would be awful if you could have fun with fashion. unable to finance the manufacture of her connection samir has created a multi-platform visual environment her creations become collages that find

a place in art galleries where she sells them. she questions the notion of boundaries as seen and heard in this political video featuring a dress inspired by the plight of migrants in this. nuclear field you. didn't build you. well you know this dress represents a country that doesn't exist it's actually a standard bearer and it standard is the word migrant i use a lot of collage to present my work and i put it on an olympic podium in the winner's position. completely outside the market so mia has her own range she encourages us to think about the unresolvable problems of our times for her fashion reflects a stance. avoid the verge of a fashion elevate every day staples and even embrace ugliness this is the

philosophy of vette mom the latest cube of cool fashion sensation it's an international collective of young designers founded by democrats are leah a former student of mine. the great pioneer of deconstructed clothing. but man's first noteworthy show was an anti fashion shot in the arm held in the basement of a hardcore gay club over excited fashion editors discovered secondhand clothes with your head coach no professional models just ordinary people generic clubs a cool or even ice cold demonstration of the art of repopulating. they offered clothes symbolizing life styles in their hands hoodies and the like became icons they really changed the proportions and the assemblage of components their very raw very interesting styling was understood the world over. to more

concrete a long war. in far on the cell for once he was a brand that took the history of clothes seriously and said ok if this is the age of clothing we're going to go all the way and show that they're just clothes not fashion. only. after just three seasons fred moore had already become a fan favorite among pop stars and other celebrities most of their items sold down before they hit the shelves. that martin county fashion to extremes with its version of the t. shirt worn by d.h.l. couriers. it's something that fashion has always done it's the poor pressed style it's the borrowing of work symbols clothes and uniforms it's been done before with the sale of jersey the boiler suits overalls is a kind of after tape of a herd of fashion. and you surely must says you sean did it the whole

movement did exactly the same thing i think this contact between the two is the work and at the same time contemporary art they're very aware of what they're doing . and bothers me more is that millions of people are willing to fork out loads to look like a delivery guy thought poor sorry i knew you were an original d.h. on t. shirt costs less than ten dollars with a designer price tag version is the most unexpected fashion hit of recent years and it has in turn itself been copied. by. three four hundred dollars for a share this is the. sky ridiculous it feels like they're almost seeing with the fashion industry by doing that it's controversial so i. mean. tran is not so much a designer as

a fashion geek on a whim he created vetter mean a label parodying vetter do started when he saw oversized black parker san out in new york on day one. he has created a parallel market with his home are stroke bootleg project the maverick has his own independent and ironic fashion brand to do by his research online. work on google or. find a factory. all the designs are in photoshop. there's a reference. marks were. turned into my own. quarter on with a huge fan base to look better memes knockoffs provided competition for the

originals. restart this eight years and it's sold out every. transplant whose version of created a bounce in the fashion press not least by early articles were about. tension getting. what's going to do. people like that take a cyclic big new york times wrote about it they reached out to that more and that was told. that they like the project they supported it and they were not going to see this i was super happy to hear. the attitude of democrats are leaders collect. it is surprising in an industry where piracy is the arch enemy second journey that it raises questions about royalty information sharing open source culture and the real message here is creation that comes out of nowhere no longer exists everyone builds on existing codes of the genes make a name for themselves by remixing by creating a ritual track from

a work that is in their own. fashion does that to you is if it's. there and that's a good thing if it promotes the recycling salvaging and we purposing of existing pieces. it can become a positive message about current consumption with our church bells. if it remains is a hobby for donald trump his day job is selecting and selling the best used luxury and designer clothing on the grail to platform items for fashion followers rarities that he finds online and then sells all collect himself. thirty sasso saw this recently for five hundred dollars. so i got shipped it so. i close with five a history to this one for example it says it's rare. you can't find this

anywhere else and if you buy you. some hundreds of other people to have you know. this is what i love about. i read how to re-use i don't feel like i need more new for it's expensive i need it i love to recycle. one of my theory pieces features a corporate print on the inside. the fashion in which she decided to start making clothes i think would be of. nothing would change i think we would have enough clothes to. everyone. on earth.

the overproduction of clothes has reached. every year two and a half billion pairs of jeans are sold in the world france alone disposes of a massive seven hundred thousand tons of clothes annually only one quarter will be sorted and cycled in centers like this one the shanta loop in the paris suburbs the best pieces are resound in france others are shipped to africa unsellable items are turned into insulation. inexhaustible source of fabric is and his

hunting ground to places where the hipster rag picker on earth the roll materials for her future collections. break because there's already more than enough material out there and it makes no sense to produce. a i found this fabulous wool and material i'm going to make a little jacket with it. this cotton here will be perfect for swirly dress. i don't and this is my fave it's everything i love a big floral print and it used to be a curtain i'm after bold prints that tell a story and with lots of flowers that's really the d.n.a. of my collections and they're a near perfect condition too. with that finds and i use produces two collections a year for her brand layers a coupe are hardly. an ace is greener approach turning old materials into desirable

fashion items is a classic case of upcycling. based in greater london eccentric thirtysomething daniel harris is the antithesis of fast fashion he makes woven cloth and his mill is the first in the british capital but over a century. london cloth company has revived a bygone craft in the process of bringing long forgotten machines back to life and they work wonders. with a handful of cash collector spirits and his d.i.y. skills daniel harris has revived the authentic tweet that is in such big demand. this is the design from about nine hundred ten i got from

a place called terrace in scotland and it came out of a basement filled with water so every single piece of this one end of it is covered in rust this is actually the loom i started with that we use it but we've. these types of limbs is a very basic you have to know about your nation they have no information in life all they want to do is weave one thing but they will weave it all day every day without that. daniels mills spans several industrial revolutions his turn of the century looms sit alongside one thousand nine hundred sixty as machines it's a strangely beautiful scene. despite his mills archaic appearance daniel is a formidable soul trader with a startup mentality he puts the magic of marketing at the service of

a passionate love of all fantic textiles. moving is insanely repetitive it's. boring but it drives you. for some reason to keep doing it and doing it more and getting it better each time i can't really tell you what it is it's like an addiction. a very very cruel unforgiving addiction but what is incredibly satisfying is getting fabric that has been washed with what we call finished back delivered and you open it up and it's not sort of an attempt at doing it it's like. there's no planned obsolescence or daniel's mail his artfully woven cloth is durable and can be passed on for several generations just like our grandparents clothes and his approach

appeals to global brands like a half long and even nike. the company gets its fair share of visitors eager to know the secrets of authentic british tweed. what it's very good for is educating people in a way a fabric comes from actually how much work goes into it they would never necessary fully understood the path that the wall or the cotton or whatever would take. in order to become the cloth that then becomes your clothes. on his own modest scale house has invented a new model of a retro future of factory design a bass worker and artist he has reinvented tweed culture and restored its authenticity. i award away from the

clatter of machines the work of co-operative friends of light embodies a new idea of luxury taken to the extreme ultra slow fashion with monastic patience by hand and in the middle of the countryside for new yorkers spin weave and solo one off pieces this get filled up late and you can start here and there and then connect us. to their star creation is this reinterpretation of the chanel suit woven using ancient techniques. a lot of people refer to it s. the new quick to. check it now but will go up because it's going to kill bill first that thirty two whole dollars and we pay ourselves fifteen dollars an hour but so it's a very transparent process because it takes us at least the whole that sixty hours to make her. friends of lines wealthy cling on town can afford this extra bit of

so it's a new kind of luxury instead of the umpteenth she could sensory they purchased one off hand crafted pieces made with that most precious of commodities time. meanwhile the ultra futuristic machines are a great time saver it took a three d. printer one hundred twenty hours to make this jacket. make. these objects ghana the next major technical revolution is done it pellets collection assistant. a graduate of shankar a prestigious fashion school in tel aviv the young israeli designer made waves with

extraordinary graduation show. i didn't know anything about. working on this project so i started my research they internet. so many amazing siri their knowledge with an hour. by this technology local branch of the maker movement platform provided her with access to high tech machines enabling her to artfully meld fashion and technology that was so happy to see a. man there who needed. all the information did they teach me anything i don't know about three. for a first collection created entirely at home and done it perry kept her machines running night and day to print jackets dresses skirts and even shoes for groundbreaking work baffled some of her teachers but captivated people elsewhere.

in just two weeks over five million people view the video on facebook of this first and fiercely independent collection. this is a very tired jacket it has the word lever to invested into the textile and it was the first garment they ever printed in three d. so jacket has a really big plays in my heart for this triangular lot his jacket in which he printed piece by piece and then assembled peleg was inspired by the composition of using della choirs masterpiece liberty leading the people. and i found that what leads us into actually there for you know the idea of freedom that's why did a wide culture becoming so being and people are actually really like to create things by themselves and their life to be. self-reliance and they like to be part of the production of what they're having i felt like something big is happening

this is starting of a new revolution. fashion has rediscovered hand craftsmanship but technology is threatening to turn couture on its head. for the last ten years dutch designer iris from help on has been stunning the fashion press her inspired foundry pushing designs are made from nearly everything back to fabric she was the first designer to use three d. printers to produce unique textures and structures with futuristic materials today she has to show in parks. the centerpiece of her collection is reminisce. a cloud of suspended drops of water

dumps the alchemy of light when you look through the structure it's actually the body but also the lighter. it's a bit inspired by insects early morning when they're covered in the interrupts that . information behind. how a light can actually transform the shape of the body. explorer of the unconscious visionary and determined are is fun happen has had a man's memorising impact the multi-disciplinary designer works with scientists architects and artists like new zealand caernarfon camp with whom she created her legendary collection voltage.

craftsmanship. materials and technologies have. statics and when you heard step two. as a designer you can come. to. a completely new and even the old behaviors of the gunman's. already immortal irises dressers are exhibited in museums around the world at once primitive and futuristic all her collections offer an anxious and poetic view of nature. reconnecting with nature is tech fashions new field of research the future will involve making garments with cellulosic fibers derived from resources available in abundance such as seaweed. potatoes corn and even milk. there's the

promise of replacing all things synthetic with biotech which is obviously much better for the environment for people for our skin for everything. these alternative fibers are vital it takes eleven thousand liters of water as well as pesticides to make a single pair of cotton jeans the world's main fashion brands together use over one hundred billion liters of fresh water annually in light of this disaster for the environment there is an urgent need for action. there are already products being made with spider silk but with no spiders involved spiders are capable of producing five different sorts of threads including one that is very elastic it's a silk so strong that it can be used to make it bulletproof fabrics. having created a protein that bears similarities to spider silk california start up old friend

manufacturers of synthetic fiber every bit as flexible and durable as the original . this new nonpolluting material called the interest of british designer stella mccartney she teamed up with to produce the world's first synthetic spider silk dress a lifelong vegetarian the designer has been sending a strong message to the industry by putting her money on biomimicry with a firm belief that by emulating nature strategies and patterns we can create an eco friendly planet. by seemingly different means and approaches slow fashion and high tech fashion share a utopia. high tech and slow craft share a vision of another world one where we pollute much less and produce locally doing away with no need for transport. so it's

where we can disseminate around the world maybe just the idea or the technology or the program and i think this is where open source will play a huge role. in sort of. one day i was invited to an important event and i wanted to wear something specially new for it so looked through my suitcase and i couldn't find anything to wear i was lucky to be that the college of conference said that day and i had access to three d. printers so quickly designers occurred on my computer and i loaded the file on the printers just printing the pieces over night the next morning i just do called a few says somebody together in my hotel room and this is actually did it skirt that i'm wearing right now. the teacher's line zation of clothing advocated by done it was a hit with a ted talks community the international sounding board for god ideas this encourage the young designer to go further. wanted to try and do production with

one of their idols i call it must be induction but it's on a one hundred limited edition jackets and every customer is scared to come to my website customized a jacket. i need and then integrate it with fitting session and have it come pick a customized measure. television is a high tech city for the latest project on a tenant joined forces with a local startup that is launched on allowing shoppers to measure their bodies and get their exact size immediately. so the only thing she has to do is to take the two closes in front of the camera with her body shape visible so it's like . turning so those. three d. printing class made to measure means no material is wasted this represents you.

huge potential savings for big brands who are also keen to get their hands on customer's personal data to target them more effectively. in the near future three d. printers will become mainstream and replicate traditional fabrics fashion is set to witness a new industrial revolution. clothing will be digital and patterns downloadable. and i'm still waiting for someone to upload patterns on an open source site open source designers elsewhere are already doing it. and waiting for fashion to catch up so we can make our own dior skirts call miley book like in the old days rocket designer patterns used to be sold to department stores and they would recreate the garments it was the ready to wear of the time we're not inventing anything new it'll just be a different way of doing things. this utopia of

a shift to a sharing economy is still some way off but there is constant reinvention on the fringes of the fashion world more transparent more responsible driven by a culture of sharing and d.i.y. boosted by the inevitable technological revolution fashion status is changing. we can finally be a common good again fashions current crisis might just lead to its liberation.

kickoff. so how was. ours was the best. the best place for. the best gold. cup going to sleep the highlights. to. direct and

close up. topics that moved the world. from society and politics to the environment. to the current affairs documentary. close on ninety minutes. i think is everything first i'm a muslim. so much different culture between here and there challenging for if. some of the suffering there was worth it for me to come to germany.

got my license to work as a swimming instructor to show now and teach children other dogs just one of the toughest. what's your story take part charity on info migrants dogmas. the sri lankan government has invoked emergency powers as it investigates the easter sunday suicide bombings which targeted christian churches as well as hotels killing almost three hundred people sri lankan authorities blamed a local islam is group but said an international terror organization may also have been involved.