why don't we were. when we were. eighty percent of americans at some point in our lives will experience hardship listening. audience. which is of course a. little. bit dangerous. floods and droughts climate change become the main driver of mass migration you can write any apocalyptic scenario if you want and probably most of them will come to. the. start if thirtieth on t.w. .

on april the twenty fourth two thousand and thirteen the rana plaza complex in bangladesh collapsed crushing to death one thousand one hundred thirty five garment workers and injuring two thousand more warnings the building was on the safe or ignored their customer orders to be met on time to satisfy our insatiable demand for fast fashion the horrific news and images shocked the world some people called it the closing industry's nine eleven. as the dark reality of

a system out of control too many collections too much consumption too much pressure from shareholders designers burning out globalised fashion has become an all too many ways unsustainable. because the clothes industry is a never ending loop it's completely insane. trends what's in what's out what's hot what's not none of that exists now. the only production in fashion at a moment is capital production. there's no cultural production anymore to the system is absurd. the fashion industry produces eighty billion garments every year making it the second largest polluter in the world second only to oil fashion has become a toxic passion that is destroying us with a grin on its face. we met up with progressive activists who are working to humanize fashion. some have rediscovered weaving others use

three d. printers all of them call for ethical creativity and fashion that is sustainable and humane it's a dear to that in different superficial fashion a smug parody of itself today another kind of fashion is possible. paris april the twenty fourth two thousand and seventeen four years to the day since the rana plaza disaster a group of fashion activists are commemorating the loss of life what a cause of her life was it but on her own and i thought ok for them there's blood on the clothes we buy and wear become pretty is the fashion business their slogan is who made my clothes and they want to put a face to those who keepers trend. make.

i feel like shouting this is an appeal to the world. they using printed prop happenings and internet radio broadcasts of street debates to get their message across. that the rana plaza tragedy was the moment when for the first time i opened my wardrobe to see where the clothes i own had been made it seem we have all these next months before that the test really common actually caught fire in bangladesh one hundred twelve women died in the flames all by jumping from windows the conditions are truly appalling no one talked about it until every thousand people died. the movement is now an international one called fashion revolution. fashion revolutions aim is to speak out and raise awareness we're convinced we can change fashions ecosystem and to do that we need a grassroots movement for south wales. fashion revolution is calling for

transparency as with organic products the idea is to make a garment supply chain traceable they want to see the faces behind the labels via twitter brands a challenge to disclose information the group's anger and frustration are aimed primarily at the multimillion dollar retailers who invented fast fashion. fast fashion as brands like h. and m. zorro who showed up in the ninety's with a really new business model it involved producing clothes as cheaply as possible in very poor countries in order to offer innovative collections every three weeks which made a real contribution to fashion. this need for constant novelty created a kind of addiction which is pretty harmful for the planet and for people. for the two. two thousand and four for the first time ever the god of both couture

karl lagerfeld created an affordable collection for h. and m. . seventy three. friends it crowns a bargain hunters cleaned out the swedish closing giant stores in just twenty minutes with their rarity enhanced through communication these mass locks design a collaboration to become a hysteria inducing ritual. we were perhaps the first industry to come up with the concept of planned obsolescence we claim increasingly sooner that the clothes the products we've created on no longer fit for purpose and shouldn't be worn. by. contraceptive image the fast fashion giants talk about virtuous circles and long tree cycling initiatives but they continue to overproduce close out lower and lower

cost than cement if you can post their last week in paris i saw a poster for a little bikini top that cost four euros ninety five cents and i felt sick to my stomach but. it was a very complicated bikini top as well with a small very well stitched triangle. when you look at the photo you know there is usually two euro's worth of thread one euro of material plus shipping marketing costs and so on. crystal meth this thing should have costs i reckon at least fifteen years. it's cheaper than a sandwich it's intolerable because it's teaching people that it has no value. every season ater court publishes her trend predictions she's regarded as an all thorough t.

even when she challenges the convictions of the somewhat closed world of fashion she is currently dean of hybrid studies at parsons new york for more than thirty years her trend books have been the bible of fashion editors and brands alike. this color that will be the season's favorite. one year after the rana plaza building collapse she published anti fashion an upbeat damning manifesto addressing the fashion system's failings but. i couldn't carry on pretending that everything was fine when i felt very strongly that it wasn't. it wasn't fun. because i love fashion and i really enjoyed all the years i spent working in the system. and i'm not a negative or an activist that isn't my thing. court has no illusions she can see fashion becoming greedy and for a young designers are trying to become hyperactive divas essential crafts and skills are disappearing and it is our for profit is seen designers deprived of

their creativity she believes that instead of reflecting the spirit of the age fashion has itself become outdated just that i would change everything in fashion it's sad and at the same time very exciting as it auntie fashion has become fashionable it's become a movement. and the fashion it's a term used with increasing frequency it's now even a movement the anti fashion project which holds its general assembly in must say world capital of this radical calls for change. we believed we would attain a degree of infiniteness by consuming and reinventing people another belief has been shattered. that is that. for three days thinkers and fair fashion activists joined forces with emerging brands outraged designers students and

dandies to give fashion a make over. we decided to reinvent sneakers to create a pair that respected people as well as the environment and that vision was born. founded in two thousand and four vision was one of the first brands to combine cool with ecological awareness. vision visions philosophy is to firstly deconstruct the entire production chain then improve each stage it's a mix of fair trade organic awareness and social inclusion. we buy wild rubber in the amazon rain forest we buy our organic cotton directly we know all the producers . and it's a totally transparent approach as for marketing we don't shine the spotlight on a top model or athlete but rather on the way in which our sneakers are made. with an annual turnover of over eight million euros has shown that

a moral conscience and shoot profits can go hand in hand responsible fashion however represents only around five percent of global sales fast fashions frantic and environmentally toxic canada has become the norm plus it upsets creative rhythms. working to such tight time scale of obviously has an impact on designers. sometimes they'll food products in stores inspired by their own creations before they've even supplied their own clients. this evidently impacts on the creative process too there's also a need to be increasingly present and to crank out new collections faster and faster than. one nine hundred ninety s. with globalization and the advent of fast fashion the world of underwent major changes in. independent fashion houses were bought up by multinationals and fashion became the biggest money spinners of these luxury empires which opening new stores all over the world in two thousand and seventeen the global luxury goods sank to

reach sales of over a quarter of a trillion euros with a pressure of stock prices monitored in real time by shareholders the fashion business changed the race was on to continually develop new product innovations and produce them in greater numbers it became impossible for designers to keep up the murderous pace. but three of them can come up with sixteen collections a year while maintaining a consistent brand image the designer is in the public eye so there are a kind of brand ambassador but someone who used to working in a studio making clothes cannot comprehend that they suddenly have to give instructions were mentally and that the nature of their work has changed with our. designers today aren't really designers or clothes make them managers and that can be really traumatic. among designers this new pace has been a factor in burnout and worse in twenty eleven john galliano's of anti semitic

outburst seems like career suicide at the designer was exhausted and strung out on drugs to your fired him. not long before that the suicide of alexander mcqueen at the height of his fame rocked the fashion world in two thousand and fifteen raf simmons and al by albinos walked out of dui and long in the space of ten years the figure of the one out designer has become the cliche of a creatively sterile system. call it remembered looking at the fashion world over the last thirty years in the late eighty's and the ninety s. you have the big names the home of the local ga helmut lang stand. to prove that clothes were no longer just clothes that they could be part of the history of design the history of art that's when clothes started. societal. and the questions of gender japanese minimalism which reflected a crisis a country in transformation. the prophet a futurism faction became

a very active and very aware of society. people realized all of a sudden we were facing a new age the temporality a fashion a system that totally distorted the intentions. globalized the fashion image has cannibalized new media blogs and social networks the brands all post frantically on instagram v.o.i.p. fashion shows are a thing of the past collections are revealed in real time meanwhile internet users create their own clothes shows one connection follows the next in a never ending hypnotic but shallow stream but instagram the outsiders preferred medium can deliver an alternative message to. kids. how do you go about creating desire for a government what you call the fact is if you don't desire a garment you don't buy it because you want to buy it when you've seen it looking good somewhere. and then you wonder looking good

where. girls don't actually buy fashion magazines anymore they check out instagram . instagram is the virtual showroom of some years they had the designer and i.t. fashion activist spotted by cast about jack she goes to places fashion ignores and wants to tackle the to boost of her time. and it bringing my designs here makes them come alive fashion magazine photos don't always do it for me i have a problem with studio shoots i like life having people in the background people watching even something going wrong nothing is planned. simmias the idea is perhaps the quintessential digital native. that's great just her hands she is part of a generation who are done with the immediate allure of capitalism and who are

instead searching for meaning. they say that what i've come here with a transparent head scarf to take away its dark religious aspect the fact it frightens people and so on to show that it's basically just an item of clothing one that i've turned into a fashion accessory. it isn't religious clothing at all even if there is a nod to that i repurpose close but with a touch of humor it would be awful if you could have fun with fashion. fun able to finance the manufacture of her connection samir has created a multi-platform visual environment her creations become collages that find a place in art galleries where she sells them. she questions the notion of boundaries as seen and heard in this political video featuring a dress inspired by the plight of migrants.

well you know this dress represents a country that doesn't exist although it's actually a standard bearer and it standard is the word migrant i use a lot of collage to present my work and i put it on an olympic podium in the winner's position. completely outside the market so mia has her name she encourages us to think about the unresolvable problems of our times for her fashion reflects a stance. avoid the verb of fashion elevate everyday staples and even embrace ugliness this is the philosophy of vet mom the latest cuba cool fashion sensation it's an international collective of young designers founded by denmark vassar leah a former student of montana. the great pioneer of deconstructed clothing.

but mom was first noteworthy show was an anti fashion shot in the arm held in the basement of a hardcore gay club over excited fashion editors discovered second time clothes with couture edge no professional models just ordinary people generic clubs a cool or even ice cold demonstration of the art of repurchasing. is all. the more they offered clothes symbolizing life styles in their hands and hoodies and the like became icons they really changed the proportions and the assemblage of components their very raw very interesting styling was understood the world over. to more concrete a long war. in far on the cell for once he was a brand that took the history of clothes seriously and said ok if this is the age of clothing we're going to go all the way and show that they're just clothes not

fashion. only. after just three seasons vette mom had already become a firm favorite among pop stars and other celebrities most of their items sold down before they hit the shelves. that mall to guarantee fashion to extremes with its version of the t. shirt worn by d.h.l. couriers. it's something that fashion has always done it's the poor press style it's the borrowing of work symbols clothes and uniforms it's been done before with the sale of jersey the boiler suits overalls is a kind of after tape of a herd of fashion. and you surely must says you sean did it the whole movement did exactly the same thing i think this contact between the two is the work and at the same time contemporary art they're very aware of what they're doing . bothers me more is that millions of people are willing to fork out loads

to look like a delivery guy thought poor soul realised they were an original d.h.l. t. shirt costs less than ten dollars with a designer price tag vet man's version is the most unexpected fashion hit of recent years and it has in turn itself been copied. by. three four hundred dollars for a shirt this is the. scary day it feels like they're almost messing with the fashion industry by doing that it's controversial so i. trannies not so much reduced zinah as a fashion geek on a whim he created venture me a label parodying vetter mom it all started when he saw vitamins oversized black parkas son out in new york on day one.

he has created a parallel market with his whole marsh stroke bootleg project the maverick has his own independent and ironic fashion brand to do by prayer by his research online i looked on google to find a factor. other than science in photoshop. there's a reference some of marks were. turned into my own. play on. the course on with a huge fan base to look better memes knockoffs provided competition for the originals a restart this lets all that i. created a bounce in the fashion press not least by early articles were about attention getting. what's that money going to do. people like that if it's

a click the new york times wrote about it they reached out to that war and that mom told me that they liked the project they supported it and they were not going to see it so i was super happy to hear. the attitude of democrats leaders collect. it is surprising in an industry where piracy is the arch enemy second journey of the law it raises questions about royalty information sharing open source culture and the real message here is creation that comes out of nowhere no longer exists everyone builds on existing codes the genes make a name for themselves by remixing by creating a ritual track from a work that is in their own. fashion does that too if it's. there and that's a good thing if it promotes the recycling salvaging and repurchasing of existing pieces. it can become a positive message about current consumption which actually falls. furter means is

a hobby for donald tran he's day job pre-selecting and selling the best used luxury and design new clothing on the grail to platform items for fashion followers rarities that he finds online and then sells or collects himself. there which is actually sold this resell for five dollars. so i got a ship there so. i close with a history to this one for example. it's rare. you can't find this anywhere else you buy new. hungers other people have. this what are. i really have to re-use i don't feel like i need more new for it's expensive and i need it i love to recycle.

it's one of my therapists. features. the fashion and she decided to start making clothes i think would be. nothing would change i think we would have enough clothes to close. everyone. on earth. the overproduction of clothes has reached levels every year two and

a half billion pairs of jeans are sold in the world france alone disposes of a massive seven hundred thousand tons of clothes annually only one quarter will be sorted and cycled in centers like this one you shan't alou in the paris suburbs the best pieces are resound in france others are shipped to africa unsellable items are turned into insulation. inexhaustible source of fabric is and i use his hunting ground to this is where the hipster rag picker on earth the roll materials for her future collections. break because there's already more than enough material out there and it makes no sense to produce more. to day i found this fabulous wool in material i'm going to make a little jacket with it. this cotton here will be perfect for swirly dress.

i don't and this is my fave it's everything i love a big floral print and it used to be a curtain i'm after bold prints that tell a story and with lots of flowers that's really the d.n.a. of my collections and they're a near perfect condition to. with that finds a nice produces two collections a year for her brand layers a coupe are hardly. an ace is greener approach turning old materials into desirable fashion items is a classic case of upcycling. based in greater london eccentric thirtysomething daniel harris is the antithesis of fast fashion he makes woven cloth and his mill is the first in the british capital but over a century. the

london cloth company has revived a bygone craft in the process bringing the long forgotten machines back to life and they work wonders. with a handful of cash collectors spirity and his d.i.y. skills harris has revived the authentic tweet that is in such big demand. this is the design for about nineteen ten i got from a place called terrace in scotland and it came out of a basement filled with water so every single piece of this one end of it is covered in rust this is actually the loom i started with that we use it with scarves. these types of limbs is a very basic you have to know about generation that no information in life all they want to do is weave one thing but they will weave it all day every day without that

. daniels mills spans several industrial revolutions his turn of the century looms sit alongside one thousand nine hundred sixty s. machines it's a strangely beautiful scene. despite his mills archaic appearance daniel is a formidable soul trader with a startup mentality he puts the magic of marketing at the service of a passionate love of all frantic textiles. moving is insanely repetitive it's. boring but it drives you to for some reason to keep doing it and doing it more and getting it better each time i can't really tell you what it is it's like an addiction. a very

very cruel unforgiving addiction but what is incredibly satisfying is getting fabric that has been washed with what we call finished back delivered and you open it up and it's not sort of an attempt at doing it it's. there's no planned obsolescence or daniels mail his artfully woven cloth is durable and can be passed on for several generations just like our grandparents clothes and his approach appeals to global brands like a half long and even nike. the company gets its fair share of visitors eager to notice secrets of authentic british tweed. what it's very good for is educating people in a way a fabric comes from and actually how much work goes into it they would never let the seri fully understood the path that the wall or the cotton or whatever would

take. in order to become the cloth that then becomes your clothes. on his own modest scale house has invented a new model of a retro future of factory design a bass worker and artist he has reinvented tweed culture and restored its authenticity. i award away from the clatter of machines the work of co-operative friends of light embodies a new idea of luxury taken to the extreme ultra slow fashion with monastic patience by hand and in the middle of the countryside for new yorkers spin weave and so one off pieces this gets filled up late and you can start here and there then connect us. to their star creation is this reinterpretation of the chanel

suit woven using ancient techniques. a lot of people refer to or destiny to. a jacket now but will go up because it's kind of killed off worth it thirty two hundred dollars and we pay ourselves fifteen dollars an hour but so it's a very transparent process because it takes us at least one hundred sixty hours to make. friends of lines wealthy cling on town can afford this extra bit of so it's a new kind of luxury instead of the umpteenth she cooks sensory they purchased one off hand crafted pieces made with that most precious of commodities time. meanwhile the true futuristic machines are a great time saver it took a three d. printer one hundred twenty hours to make this jacket.

these objects canna the next major technical revolution is done it pegs collection assistant. a graduate of shankar a prestigious fashion school in tel aviv the young israeli designer made waves with extraordinary graduation show. i didn't know anything about. working on this project so i started my research. so many amazing series there knowledge with an hour made to. buy this technology a local branch of the maker movement platform provided her with access to high tech machines enabling her to artfully meld fashion and technology it was sad to see

a. man there who needed. all the information dedicated to anything i know about three. for the first collection created entirely at home dunnit perry kept her machines running night and day to print jackets dresses skirts and even shoes for groundbreaking work baffled some of her teachers but captivated people elsewhere. in just two weeks over five million people view the video on facebook of his first and fiercely independent collection. this is a very tired jacket it has the word leverage to invest it into the textile and it was the first garment they ever printed in three d. so jacket has a really big plays in my heart for this triangular lot his jacket which he printed

piece by piece and then assembled collectors inspired by the composition of usually della choirs masterpiece liberty leading the people. and i felt their work leaves us is actually different now the idea of freedom that's why d.i.y. of culture is becoming so be and people are actually really like to create things by themselves and they like to be. self-reliance and a leg to be part of the production of what they're having i felt like something big is happening this is starting of a new revolution. far from his rediscovered hand craftsmanship but technology is threatening to turn couture on its head.

for the last ten years dark designer iris found help and has been stunning the fashion press her inspired foundry pushing designs are made from nearly everything back to fabric she was the first designer to use three d. printers to produce unique textures and structures with futuristic materials today she has to show in person. the centerpiece of her collection is reminisce. a cloud of suspended drops of water dumped the alchemy of light. through the structure it actually transforms the body but also the lighter. it's a bit inspired by insects early morning when they're covered in the. inspiration behind. a lights can actually transform the shape of the body. exploring of the unconscious visionary and determined are is fun happen has had

a mesmerizing impact the multi-disciplinary designer works with scientists architects and artists like new zealand connors fan camp with whom she created her legendary collection voltage. materials and technologies have. statics and when you heard step two. as a designer you can come. to. a completely new shapes and even the old behaviors of the gunman's. already immortal irises dresses are exhibited in

museums around the world at once primitive and futuristic all her collections offer an anxious and poetic view of nature. reconnecting with nature is tech fashions new field of research the future will involve making garments with cellulosic fibers derived from resources available in abundance such as seaweed. potatoes corn and even milk. there's the promise of replacing all things synthetic with biotech which is obviously much better for the environment for people. for everything. these alternative fibers are vital it takes eleven thousand liters of water as well as pesticides to make a single pair of cotton jeans the world's main fashion brands together use over one hundred billion liters of fresh water annually in light of this disaster for the

environment there is an urgent need for action. there are already products being made with spider silk but with no spiders involved spiders are capable of producing five different sorts of threads including one that is very elastic it's a silk so strong that it can be used to make bulletproof fabrics. having created a protein that bears similarities to spider silk california start our friend manufacturers of synthetic fiber every bit as flexible and durable as the original. this new nonpolluting material called the interest of british designer stella mccartney she teamed up with threat to produce the world's first synthetic dress a lifelong vegetarian the designer has been sending a strong message to the industry by putting her money on biomimicry with the firm belief that by emulating nature's strategies and patterns we can create an eco

friendly planet. by seemingly different means and approaches slow fashion and high tech fashion at utopia. high tech and slow craft share a vision of another world one where we pollute much less and produce locally doing away with your need for transport. so it's where we can disseminate around the world maybe just the idea or the technology or the program and i think this is where open source will play a huge role open source version where. one day i was invited to an important event and i wanted to wear something specially new for it so look through my suitcase that i couldn't find anything to wear i was lucky to be that the college a conference that day and i had access to three d.

printers so quickly design a skirt on my computer and i loaded the file on the printers just printing the pieces overnight the next morning i just took all the for uses somebody together in my hotel room and this is actually did it skirt that i'm wearing right now. the teachers line zation of clothing advocated by done it peleg was a hit with a ted talks community the international sounding board for our own god ideas this encourage the young designer to go further. wanted to try and do production with one of their idols i call it must production but it's only a one hundred limited edition jacket and every customer scanned it come to my website customized care to. anything and then integrate it with fitting session and have it complete the customized to the by the magic. tel aviv is a high tech city for the latest project on its planet joined forces with

a local startup that is launched on allowing shoppers to measure their bodies and get their exact size immediately. so the only thing she has to do is to take the two close is in front of the camera with her body shape visible so it's like. turning say those. three d. printing plus made to measure means no material is wasted this represents huge potential savings for big brands who are also keen to get their hands on customer's personal data to target the more effectively. in the near future three d. printers will become the mainstream and replicate traditional fabrics fashion is set to witness a new industrial revolution clothing will be digital and patterns downloadable. and i'm still waiting for someone to upload patterns on an open source site or

designers elsewhere are already doing it. and waiting for fashion to catch up so we can make our own dior skirts book like in the old days designer patterns used to be sold to department stores and they would recreate the garments it was the ready to wear of the time we're not inventing anything new it'll just be a different way of doing things. not have. this utopia of a shift to a sharing economy are still some way off but there is constant reinvention on the fringes of the fashion world more transparent more responsible driven by a culture of sharing and d.i.y. boosted by the inevitable technological revolution fashion status is changing. it can finally be a common good again fashions current crisis might just lead to its liberation.

cause. ours was. the best place for. the best go. to sleep the highlights.

of a chain reaction. again around six hundred years ago. in the renaissance the revolution in philosophy enabled the smoosh and stupid people became aware of their abilities and strengths in a new way there was an outpouring of self-confidence and. architects . scientists. and artists. are going to be invented completely new things and topple the ancient giants who had originally been its teacher who seem to be. the picture of the darkest moochers future. this week on t w.

this is d w news coming to you live from grief and anger in sri lanka as many ask could the easter sunday attacks have been prevented the country enters a day of mourning authorities also declare a state of emergency and make several arrests but people are asking did the terror plot succeed because of an intelligence failure also coming up a decision that sends a chilling message about the law crecy in myanmar the supreme court rejects a final appeal of two jailed journalists who dared to refer.