in terms of tennis because it lost during qualifying but snuck in and because another player dropped out he lost the first set to its fair but took the next two to notch the biggest win of his career i i you're watching news i'm terry march and coming up next our documentary film looking at passion and ethics rito will be here with you at the top of the next hour with more news thanks for being with us. shifting powers the old order is history the world is really good as in itself and the media's role is to keep the topic in focus at the global media forum twenty nine teams today one out of two people is online who are we following them do we trust debate and shape the future at the georgia dome or global view for twenty to

take. on april the twenty fourth two thousand and thirteen the rana plaza complex in bangladesh collapsed crushing to das one thousand one hundred thirty five garment workers and injuring two thousand more warnings the building was unsafe or ignored their customer orders to be met on time to satisfy our insatiable demand for fast fashion the horrific news and images shocked the world some people called it the clothing industry's nine eleven. both the dark reality of

a system out of control too many collections too much consumption too much pressure from shareholders designers burning out globalised fashion has become an all too many ways unsustainable. prefer the clothes industry is a never ending loop it's completely insane with new trends what's in what's out what's hot what's not none of that exists now. the only production in fashion at the moment is kept as a production as there's no cultural production anymore to the system is absurd. the fashion industry produces eighty billion garments every year making it the second largest polluter in the world second only to oil fashion has become a toxic passion that is destroying us with a grin on its face. we met up with progressive activists who are working to humanize fashion. some have rediscovered weaving others use

three d. printers all of them call for ethical creativity and fashion that is sustainable and humane it's a dear to that in different superficial fashion a smug parody of itself today another kind of fashion is possible. paris april the twenty fourth two thousand and seventeen four years to the day since the rana plaza disaster a group of fashion activists are commemorating the loss of life i want to cause i'll tell us what i could do but number one i thought a kick for them there's blood on the clothes we buy and wear the culprit is the fashion business their slogan is who made my clothes and they want to put a face to those who keepers trend. make.

if i feel like shouting this is an appeal to the world. they using printed happenings and internet radio broadcasts of street debate to get their message across. that the rana plaza tragedy was the moment when for the first time i opened my wardrobe to see where the clothes i owned had been mailed to the city seemed to have more news next month before that the test remained calm and actually caught fire in bangladesh one hundred twelve women died in the flames all by jumping from windows the conditions are truly appalling no one talked about it until every thousand people died. the movement is now an international one called fashion revolution. fashion revolutions aim is to speak out and raise awareness we're convinced we can change fashions ecosystem and to do that we need a grassroots movement. fashion revolution is calling for

transparency as with organic products the idea is to make a garment supply chain traceable they want to see the faces behind the labels via twitter brands a challenge to disclose information the group's anger and frustration not aimed primarily at the multimillion dollar retailers who invented fast fashion. fast fashion as brands like h. and m. zero who showed up in the ninety's with a really new business model it involved producing clothes as cheaply as possible in very poor countries in order to offer innovative collections every three weeks which made a real contribution to fashion. this need for constant novelty created a kind of addiction which is pretty harmful for the planet and for people. on november the. two thousand and four for the first time ever

a god of both couture karl lagerfeld created an affordable collection for h. and m. . friends it crowns of bargain hunters cleaned out the swedish closing giant stores in just twenty minutes with their rarity enhanced through communication these mass locks design a collaboration so become a hysteria inducing hugely ritual. we were perhaps the first industry to come up with the concept of planned obsolescence we claim increasingly sooner that the clothes the products we've created on no longer fit for purpose and shouldn't be worn. away. contraceptive image the fast fashion giants talk about virtuous circles and launch recycling initiatives but they continue to overproduce close out lower and lower

cost than cement if you can post their last week in paris i saw a poster for a little bikini top that cost four euros ninety five cents and i felt sick to my stomach but it was a very complicated bikini top as well with a small very well stitched triangle. when you look at the photo you know there's usually two euro's worth of thread one euro of material plus shipping marketing costs and so on. crystal meth this thing should have cost i reckon at least fifteen euros. it's cheaper than a sandwich it's intolerable because it's teaching people that it has no value. every season ater court publishers heard trend predictions she's regarded as an author or a t.

even when she challenges the convictions of the somewhat closed world of fashion she is currently dean of hybrid studies at parsons new york for more than thirty years her trend books have been the bible of fashion editors and brands alike. this color that will be the season's favorite. one year after the rana plaza building collapse she published anti fashion an upbeat damning manifesto addressing the fashion systems failed. they couldn't carry on pretending that everything was fine when i felt very strongly that it wasn't. it wasn't fun. because i love fashion and i really enjoyed all the years i spent working in the system. and i'm not a negative or an activist that isn't my thing. court has no illusions she can see fashion becoming greedy and for a young designers are trying to become hyperactive divas essential crafts and skills are disappearing and that is our for profit has seen designers deprived of

their creativity she believes that instead of reflecting the spirit of the age fashion has itself become outdated just that i would change everything in fashion it's sad and at the same time very exciting as it anti fashion has become fashionable it's become a movement more. anti fashion it's a term used with increasing frequency it's now even a movement the anti fashion project which holds its general assembly in must say world capital of this radical call for change. because we believed we would attain a degree of infiniteness by consuming and reinventing people and not belief has been shattered. for three days thinkers and fan fashion activists joined forces with emerging brands outraged designers students and

dandies to give fashion a make over. we decided to reinvent sneakers to create a pair that respected people as well as the environment and that vision was born. founded in two thousand and four vision was one of the first brands to combine cool with ecological awareness. vision visions philosophy is to firstly deconstruct the entire production chain that improve each stage it's a mix of fair trade organic awareness and social inclusion. we buy wild rubber in the amazon rain forest we buy our organic cotton directly we know all the producers . and it's a totally transparent approach as for marketing we don't shine the spotlight on a top model or athlete but rather on the way in which our sneakers are made. with an annual turnover of over eight million euros has shown that

a moral conscience and huge profits can go hand in hand responsible fashion however represents only around five percent of global sales fast fashions frantic and environmentally toxic canada has become the norm plus it upsets creative rhythms. working to such tight time scale of obviously has an impact on designers. sometimes they'll through products in stores inspired by their own creations before they've even supplied their own clients. this evidently impacts on the creative process too there's also a need to be increasingly present and to crank out new collections faster and faster than in the late one nine hundred ninety s. with globalization and the advent of fast fashion the world of underwent major changes in. independent fashion houses were bought up by multinationals and fashion became the biggest money spinners of these luxury empires which opening new stores all over the world in two thousand and seventeen the global luxury goods act to

reach sales of over a quarter of a trillion euros with a pressure of stock prices monitored in real time by shareholders the fashion business changed the race was on to continually develop new product innovations and produce them in greater numbers became impossible for designers to keep up the murderous pace. three of you can come up with sixteen collections a year while maintaining a consistent brand image the designer is in the public eye so there are a kind of brand ambassador but someone who used to working in a studio making clothes cannot comprehend that they suddenly have to give instructions were mentally and that the nature of their work has changed with our. designers today aren't really designers or clothes make them managers and that can be really traumatic. among designers this new pace has been a factor in burnout and worse in twenty eleven john galliano's anti semitic

outburst seemed like career suicide at the designer was exhausted in strung out on drugs to your fired him. not long before about the suicide of alexander mcqueen at the height of his fame rocked the fashion world in two thousand and fifteen raf simmons and alba albinos walked out of dior and long form in the space of ten years the figure of the worn out designer has become the cliche of a creatively sterile system. call it remembered looking at the fashion world over the last thirty years in the late eighty's and the ninety s. you have the big names to get on with local g.a.a. helmut lang stand come to get. your proof that clothes were no longer just clothes that they could be part of the history of design the history of art that's when clothes started. societal issues. and the questions of gender japanese minimalism which reflected a crisis a country in transformation. the prophet to futurism faction became

a very active and very aware of society. their people realized all of a sudden we were facing a new age the temporality a fashion a system that totally distorted the intentions. globalized the fashion image has cannibalized new media blogs and social networks the brands all post frantically on instagram v.o.i.p. fashion shows are a thing of the past collections are revealed in real time meanwhile internet users create their own clothes shows one connection follows the next in a never ending hypnotic but shallow stream but instagram the outsiders preferred medium can deliver an alternative message. to say how do you go about creating desire for government would you call the fact is if you don't desire a garment you don't buy it because you want to buy it when you've seen it looking good somewhere. and then you wonder looking good

where. girls don't actually buy fashion magazines anymore they check out instagram . instagram is the virtual showroom of some years the idea of a designer and i.t. fashion activist spotted by john shadegg castile by jack she goes to places fashion ignores and wants to tackle the to boots of time. and it bringing my designs here makes them come alive fashion magazine photos don't always do it for me i have a problem with studio shoots i like life having people in the background people watching even something going wrong nothing is planned. so me is the idea is perhaps the quintessential digital native. that's great gesture hands she is part of a generation who are done with the immediate allure of capitalism and who are

instead searching for meaning. they say that what i've come here with a transparent head scarf to take away its dark religious aspect the fact it frightens people and so on to show that it's basically just an item of clothing one that i've turned into a fashion accessory. it isn't religious clothing at all even if there is a nod to that i repurposed close but with a touch of humor it would be awful if you could have fun with fashion we've. been able to finance the manufacture of her connection samir has created a multi-platform visual environment creations become collages that find a place in art galleries where she sells them. she questions the notion of boundaries as seen and heard in this political video featuring a dress inspired by the plight of migrants. who could be.

called in to employ you. well you know this dress represents a country that doesn't exist it's actually a standard bearer and it standard is the word migrant i use a lot of collage to present my work and i put it on an olympic podium in the winner's position. competing outside the market so mia has her name she encourages us to think about the unresolvable problems of our times for her fashion reflects a stance. avoid the verge of a fashion elevate every day staples and even embrace ugliness this is the philosophy of the latest pubic cool fashion sensation it's an international collective of young designers founded by democrats are a former student of mark. the great pioneer of deconstructed clothing.

with man's first noteworthy show was an anti fashion shot in the arm held in the basement of a hardcore gay club over excited fashion editors discovered second time clothes with couture edge no professional models just ordinary people generic cards a cool or even ice cold demonstration of the art of repurchasing. is all. they offered clothes symbolizing life styles in their hands hoodies and the like became icons they really changed the proportions and the assemblage of components their very raw very interesting styling was understood the world over. to more concrete a long war. in far on a reserve for once he was a brand that took the history of clothes seriously and said ok if this is the age of clothing we're going to go all the way and show that they're just clothes not

fashion. only. after just three seasons fred more had already become a firm favorite among pop stars and divers celebrities most of their items sold down before they hit the shelves. that mall to guarantee fashion to extremes with its version of the t. shirt worn by d.h.l. couriers. it's something that fashion has always done it's the poorest style is the borrowing of work symbols clothes and uniforms it's been done before with the sale of jersey the boiler suits overalls is a kind of our tape of her fashion. and you surely must sell do sean did it the whole movement did exactly the same thing i think there's contact between the two there's the work and at the same time contemporary art they're very aware of what they're doing. and bothers me more is that millions of people are willing to

fork out loads to look like a delivery guy thought poor summary i knew you were an original d.h.l. t. shirt costs less than ten dollars with a designer price tag version is the most unexpected fashion hit of recent years that it has in turn itself being copied. by. three four hundred dollars for a show this is the. scary day it feels like they're almost messing with the fashion industry by doing that it's controversial so i. want trannies not so much reduced zinah as a fashion geek on a whim he created vetter me a label parodying vetter mom it all started when he saw oversized black parker san out in new york on day one.

he has created a parallel market with his whole marsh stroke bootleg project the maverick has your own independent and ironic fashion brand to do by prayer is research. a. fine of fact. all the designs i did in photoshop. there's a reference some of marks were. turned into my own i've. caught on with a huge fan base to look better means knockoffs provided competition for the originals a restock this eight that's all that i. try to use version and created a bounce in the fashion press not least vogue my early articles were about attention getting. what's that money going to do they're going to sue me people like that

make a cyclic big new york times wrote about it they reached out to that more want told . they liked the project they supported it and they were not going to see it so i was super happy with. the attitude of democratic leaders collect. it is surprising in an industry where piracy is the archenemy sec is generated a lot it raises questions about royalty information sharing open source culture and the real message here is creation that comes out of nowhere no longer exists everyone builds on existing codes of the genes make a name for themselves by remixing by creating a ritual track from a work that is in their own. fashion does that to me is if it's. there and that's a good thing if it promotes the recycling salvaging and we purposing of existing pieces. it can become a positive message about current consumption for the structure or false. fair to me

is the whole being for donald trump he's dangerous be selecting and selling the best used luxury and designer clothing on the grail to platform items for fashion followers rarities that he finds online and then sells or collect himself. thirty fans actually saw this recently for five dollars. so i got shipped it so. i close with a history to this one for example. it's rare. you can't find this anywhere else in a new buy new like. hundreds of people have. this one. i really have to re-use i don't feel like i need more new it's explosive then i need it i love to recycle. my fear please. feature.

the answer. if the fashion industry decide to start making clothes i think would be of. nothing would change i think we would have enough clothes to close. everyone every single animal on earth.

the over production of clothes has reached levels every year two and a half billion pounds of genes are sold in the world france alone disposes of a massive seven hundred thousand tons of close annually only one quarter will be sorted and cycled in centers like this one you shan't. in the paris suburbs the best pieces are resolved in france others as shipped to africa unsellable items are turned into insulation. inexhaustible source of fabric is an i e says hunting ground to this is where the hipster rag picker on earth the roll materials for her future collections. i don't buy that break because there's already more than enough material out there and it makes no sense to produce.

a i found this fabulous wool in material i'm going to make a little jacket with it. this cotton here will be perfect for swirly dress. i don't and this is my fave it's everything i love a big floral print and it used to be a curtain i'm after bold prints that tell a story and with lots of flowers that's really the d.n.a. of my collections and they're a near perfect condition to. with that finds a nice produces two collections a year for her brand layers a cooper hardly. an ace is greener approach turning old materials into desirable fashion items is a classic case of upcycling. based in greater london eccentric thirtysomething daniel harris is the antithesis of fast

fashion he makes woven cloth and his mill is the first in the british capital but over a century. london cloth company has revived a bygone craft in the process of bringing a long forgotten machines back to life and they work wonders. with a handful of cash a collector's spirit and his d.i.y. skills daniel harris has revived the authentic tweet that is in such big demand. this is the design for about nine hundred ten i got from a place called terrace in scotland and it came out of a basement filled with water so every single piece of this one end of it is covered in rust this is actually the loom i started with that we use it for weaving scarves . these types of things these are very basic they have no imagination they've got

no information in life all they want to do is weave one thing but they will weave it all day every day without that. daniels mills spans several industrial revolutions his turn of the century lose sit alongside one thousand nine hundred sixty is machines it's a strangely beautiful scene. despite his mills archaic appearance daniel is a formidable soul trader with a start up mentality he puts the magic of marketing at the service of a passionate love of all frantic textiles. moving is insanely repetitive it's. boring but it drives you. for some reason to keep doing it and doing it more and getting it

better each time i can't really tell you what it is it's like an addiction. a very very cruel unforgiving addiction but what is incredibly satisfying is getting fabric that has been washed with what we call finished back delivered and you open it up and it's not sort of an attempt at doing it it's like. there's no planned obsolescence or daniel's mail his artfully woven cloth is durable and can be passed on for several generations just like our grandparents clothes and his approach appeals to global brands like a hard floor home and even nike. the company gets its fair share of visitors eager to notice secrets of authentic british tweed. what it's very good for is educating people in a way

a fabric comes from and actually how much work goes into it they would never necessarily fully understood the path that the wall or the cotton or whatever would take. in order to become the cloth that then becomes your clothes. on his own modest scale houses invented a new model of a retro future factory design a bass worker and artist he has reinvented tweed culture and restored its authenticity. i award away from the clatter of machines the work of co-operative friends of light embodies a new idea of luxury taken to the extreme ultra slow fashion with monastic patience by hand and in the middle of the countryside for new yorkers spin weave and solo

one off pieces this gets filled up late and you can start here and there and then connect us. there star creation is this reinterpretation of the chanel suit woven using ancient techniques. a lot of people refer to it s. the new quitter. i check it now but will go up because it's going to kill bill first that thirty two hundred dollars and we pay ourselves fifteen dollars an hour but so it's a very transparent process that because it takes us at least one hundred sixty hours to make social. friends of lines wealthy cling on town can afford this extra bit of so it's a new kind of luxury instead of the umpteenth she could sensory they purchased one off hand crafted pieces made with that most precious of commodities time.

meanwhile ultra futuristic machines are a great time saver it took a three d. printer one hundred twenty hours to make this jacket. these objects are gonna the next major technical revolution is done it pegs collection assistant. a graduate of shankar a prestigious fashion school in tel aviv the young israeli designer made waves with her extraordinary graduation show. i didn't know anything about. working on this project so i started my research. so many amazing series there knowledge with an hour to. learn more about this

technology a local branch of the maker movement platform provided her with access to high tech machines enabling her to artfully meld fashion and technology that was so happy to see a. man there who need it. all the information dedicated to anything i know about its very. first collection created entirely at home dunnit perry kept her machines running night and day to print jackets dresses skirts and even shoes for groundbreaking work baffled some of her teachers but captivated people elsewhere. in just two weeks over five million people view the video on facebook of this first and fiercely independent collection. this is a very tight jacket it has the word lever to invest it into the textile and it was the first garment they ever printed in three d.

so jacket has a really big plays in my heart for this triangular lottie's jacket which reprinted piece by piece and then assembled collectors inspired by the composition of usually della qualls masterpiece liberty leading the people. and i found that what leads us is actually different now the idea of freedom that's why d.i.y. culture is becoming so and people are actually really like to create things by themselves and they like to be. self-reliance and like to be part of the production of what they're having i felt like something big is happening this is starting of a new revolution. fashion has rediscovered hand craftsmanship but technology is threatening to turn

couture on its head. for the last ten years dutch designer iris found help them has been stunning the fashion press her inspired boundary pushing designs are made from nearly everything back to fabric she was the first designer to use three d. printers to produce unique textures and structures with futuristic materials today she has to show in parks. the centerpiece of her collection is reminisce. a cloud of suspended drops of water dumps the alchemy of light. through the structure it's actually the body that will show the light. it's a bit inspired by insects early morning covered in the interrupts that.

inflation behind. a lights can actually transform the shape of the body. explorer of the unconscious visionary and determined our is fun happen has had a man's memorising impact the multi-disciplinary designer works with scientists architects and artists like new zealand connors fun camp with whom she created her legendary collection voltage. tiriel sent acknowledge this. when you heard step two. as a designer you can come. to. a completely new shapes and even the old

behaviors of the gunman's. already immortal irises dresses are exhibited in museums around the world at once primitive and futuristic all her collections offer an anxious and poetic view of nature. reconnecting with nature is tech fashions new field of research the future will involve making garments with cellulosic fibers derived from resources available in abundance such as seaweed. potatoes corn and even milk. there's the promise of replacing all things synthetic with biotech which is obviously much better for the environment for people for our skin for everything. these alternative fibers are vital it takes eleven thousand liters of water as well as

pesticides to make a single pair of cotton jeans the world's main fashion brands together use over one hundred billion liters of fresh water annually in light of this disaster for the environment there is an urgent need for action. there are already products being made with spider silk but with no spiders involved spiders are capable of producing five different sorts of threads including one that is very elastic it's a silk so strong that it can be used to make bulletproof fabrics. having created a protein that bears similarities to spider silk california start up old friend manufacturers of synthetic fiber every bit as flexible enjoyable as the original. this new nonpolluting material called the interest of british designer stella mccartney she teamed up with to produce the world's first synthetic dress a lifelong vegetarian the designer has been sending

a strong message to the industry by putting her money on biomimicry with a firm belief that by emulating nature's strategies and patterns we can create an eco friendly planet. despite seemingly different means and approaches slow fashion and high tech fashion share a utopia. high tech and slow craft share a vision of another world one where we pollute much less and produce locally doing away with your need for transport. so it's where we can disseminate around the world maybe just the idea or the technology or the program and i think this is where open source will play a huge role open source version. one day i was invited to an important event and i wanted to wear something special in you for it so look

through my suitcase and i couldn't find anything to wear i was lucky to be the technology conference that day and i had access to three d. printers so quickly design a skirt on my computer and i loaded the file on the printer it's just printing the pieces overnight the next morning i just took all the for uses somebody together in my hotel room and this is actually did it skirt that i'm wearing right now. the teachers line zation of clothing advocated by danny pearl it was a hit with the ted talks community the international sounding board for god ideas this encourage the young designer to go further. wanted to try and do production with one of their items i call it must be a doctor but it's on a one hundred. jackets and every customer is scared to come to my website customized jacket. anything and then integrate it with

fitting session and have it come to customize to buy the magic. television is a high tech city for her latest project done it panic joined forces with a local startup that is launched on allowing shoppers to measure their bodies and get their exact signs immediately. so the only thing she has to do is to take the two closes in front of the camera with her body shape visible so it's like . turning so those. three d. printing class made to measure means no material is wasted this represents you. huge potential savings for big brands who are also keen to get their hands on customer's personal data to target them more effectively. in the near future three d. printers will become mainstream and replicate traditional fabrics fashion is set to witness a new industrial revolution. clothing will be digital and patterns downloadable.

and i'm still waiting for someone to upload patterns on an open source site open source designers elsewhere are already doing it like a pow and waiting for fashion to catch up so we can make our own dior skirts book like any old day designer patterns used to be sold to department stores and they would recreate the garments it was the ready to wear of the time we're not inventing anything new it'll just be a different way of doing things that is not of our form of. this utopia of a shift to a sharing economy are still some way off but there is constant reinvention on the fringes of the fashion world more transparent more responsible driven by a culture of sharing and d.i.y. boosted by the inevitable technological revolution fashion status is changing.

they can finally be a common good again fashions current crisis might just lead to explain aeration. they came to a wasteland and turned it into a paradise. a conversion a lot of our land into india's only privately owned wildlife sanctuary. today it provides a safe haven for

a number of threatened. plants and. thirty minutes long w. . what's the value of a human being. about ten euro's in purely chemical terms. in this brave new world we're constantly being analyzed and revalued. are people nothing but commodities. which tell you does an individual have made in germany ninety minutes d w. i am. relating to.

everyone who wants books has to go insane. d.w. literature list hundred must reads. this is the news coming to you live from berlin and the death toll in sri lanka rises again to three hundred and fifty nine funerals are being held for victims of the suicide bombings on easter sunday now she lanka's government says it has arrested dozens more people with possible links to the attacks also coming up north

korea's leader arrives in russia for his first ever sunlight would russia's president a bloody made poutine a standoff over north korea's nuclear weapons trip.