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tv   Eco India  Deutsche Welle  October 11, 2019 5:30pm-6:00pm CEST

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bring down the 1st words of the german national one. and 3 central valley news that the foundation just treat. these values develop to. reduce it to live by and defend the principles of beauty justice and freedom in our everyday lives. our journey we use starts october 21st d.w. . hello welcome this is eco india a sustainability magazine which keeps you up to date with solutions to future proofing a life. a focus today is on the clothes we wear how wide and deep the impact is on
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the environment and what you can do to change that i'm sunk that argo coming to you from mumbai in india over the next 30 minutes let's look at how a fashion label makes designer clothes what scraps of waste book. how a startup in france is trying to tone the tide in the polluting clocked dying industry. and how the indigenous but not a sea sick sorry is making a comeback in high fashion. but 1st to an important issue of our times fast fashion has become a buzzword on the world in the last few years many a far as i don't care that buying new clothes every weekend has a devastating effect on the planet but don't quite like or have access to environmental friendly fashion a delhi based fashion studio is trying to change that boobage is setting a scalable and sustainable model in place to make fast fashion a thing of the past. at
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this clothing design studio in south west telly fabric waste is seen as a valuable resource the philosophy is simple we don't need more new clothes that challenges the current fast fashion business model something this label does with pride. the problem in the fashion industry starts from the fact that it's based on a linear fashion model so today about sorry 3 percent of the garment 3 stages go into langford's because there is lack of weaves of the using the fabrics and the garments that we are currently working with. it was this
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realization that led critique and due diligence to other founders to address the problem of textile waste in india and set up a design label committed to making fashionable clothing pieces from textile waste or upcycling discarded items it's a concept that has been gaining in popularity in the textile industry all over india as awareness rises. there's always a garment back on the out of order. then are cutting processes there's a lot of restrictions that happen so i could obviously all of that on board the small scale unit or a lot there is so much that has been produced and that exists it's about time that we start thinking about using what is already there. garment waste is not the only problem in india the textile industry is a major polluter in india the 3rd biggest after plastic and paper. but in india it's not just the garment with that we have. i know but if the
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production rates that we have to be concerned about this still one of the law just exporters of both objects and all means in the wood so all of the waste is just as we're going to i think had that level is still something that we're not being here we're dealing with the amount of they're producing. they'd bought a mental implications watering and the situation is only getting worse by the day due to the surging demand for products use of chemicals the need for space energy and water consumption. in 2015 or you know oil. and that fashion industry used up about $79000000000.00 metric killed so that's that's huge and the single t. shirt is about 2720 liters a flock of which is as much as most adults would drink and c.e.o.'s and that is a single t.
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shirt. then of course that box instead leached in the production. process itself which then impacts the communities around which factories come. due diligence from does used personal funds to set up the company 2012 now they have nearly 20 employees the seeds of inspiration are saum while the fabric was just being sorted. once all of the subject comes into this studio we start thinking about what kind of designs can bring all of them together we start fixing the fabrics in itself so that they can actually be used for their to create the clothes that we work with. that's not all all to produce bags and other items and the scraps from their own production going to making other new products as well. whatever's left over after the bag and the collection is then sent to be processed
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into people this is what is now making our stationery products. and now our next steps are actually to think about what to do with. in india due diligence considered a somewhat expensive brand with garments costing between 50 to 100 euros. presenting. since it 1st set up shop dude league has shown a collection every year at the lakme fashion week. like profession week is a premier biannual event in india it's a way of reinforcing the idea that trend based fashion is not the only way to remain viable in order to. talk to everyone interested in fashion and design
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or even other designers share their philosophy. they just keep questioning you at every level best to why you do what you do and at some point we've just given up . it's ok it's ok for not understanding what we're doing but. it's about how we want to do it and how we want to. you know the products that. the labels products are already available in 30 stores in india and also to some stores but critics thinks there's still a long way to go. like christie said not everyone realizes how bad an effect not really losing and recycling all truths can have on the environment are expanding out a testament to that this next explain a will help you make an informed choice the next time you go out to buy a t. shirt. how harmful is a t.
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shirt for the environment. it's fun to buy a new t. shirt and it's usually cheap too but the environment pays a high price why. has grown in monocultures and needs matter variegation it takes an average 2 and a half 1000 liters of water to make one single t. shirt. the cotton is treated with pesticides 16 percent of the world's purses signs are used in cotton fields and these toxic chemicals can pollute the groundwater. and then there's all the energy that is consumed to make 2 shirts electricity is needed to transform ror cotton into a yawn. and finally look at production conditions 80 percent of the world's garment workers are women overworked and underpaid they manufacture your t. shirt for a pittance which is why it's so cheap. after production all these teachers are transported around the world but it's up to 11 kilograms of c
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o 2 emissions per teacher. so next time you go shopping think about how many t. shirts you really need. now high street fashion with dedicated time and effort into finding more turnitin amsterdam based fashion for good is the world's 1st museum dedicated to sustainable fashion innovation and one of its biggest mandates is to help us if we think how clothes are bought and discarded. just go shopping in any big european city and it's the same picture one clothing store after another but the lucrative textile industry is harmful to the environment which is why many big clothing chains around the fire response some of them are supporting a museum in amsterdam called fashion for good it explores solutions to the problem right at the entrance visitors learn that say. thetic polyester fibers can take over 200 years to decompose so clearly there's
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a need for alternatives one side of bringing this innovation is through working with big retailers manufacturers to help scale some of those innovators and startups that we work with but another really important piece of the puzzle is to also engage the wider public visitors to the museum can have organic cotton t. shirts printed with their own designs and the museum combines information and commerce by offering the exhibit for sale. you should. always keep purchasing that's the principle behind fast fashion there aren't even just seasonal designs anymore instead there are new collections every few weeks the museum office tips on how to avoid fast fashion such as buying less or buying 2nd hand visitors can save the suggestions on a personal wristband then when they leave they get a list of good resolutions for every day shopping the museum is mainly funded by
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retail giant sink looting c.n.a. and online shoppers the land. visitors though aren't told that. companies that are partnering with us they are on all their mentions already pretty deeply committed to driving change you've seen them through basically sustainability reports that they have. published and our other transparent about their work you also see that through certain collections some of them are presented here in the good shop that they're really pushing the envelope in terms of new solutions. sustainability is fashionable with the urban middle class and the fashion industry wants to profit from that a trend that can't be overlooked trade fairs like burlington's fashion week truly green labels or fair fashion have to prove they're completely sustainable from
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fabric production to dying to finishing and that makes them expensive but the amsterdam museum hardly mentions that aspect. some exhibition actually founded by special brands so what the same dress a sustainable sustainable this is a new brand actually it's remote and you can also have the nice new label you can put on your clothes and so i think it's very important to have a different look to see but through high. in amsterdam the textile giants are getting inspiration from startups that are bringing new ideas into the fashion industry such as using recycled materials or natural dyes instead of synthetic ones . the big companies meet with the startups in workshops the museum has received 20000000 euros from sponsors to fund them. works for one of the startups. i think it's very important on the one hand to have a program where you connect the big companies to good grades ideas that are there
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so there are like lots of solutions for all the problems problems we have. but they have to get out there and the big companies the big brands if they change even a little bit there's a bigger impact. those who don't want to wait for that to happen can get active themselves to slow down the fast fashion cycle. now the chemicals used to make and die fabrics are often toxic for the environment and for the workers in fact. 99 percent of all dice are made from 2 chemicals a france based company has found a way to make dice which let's see how. you this may look like modern art but it's virtually
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a natural process at work believe it or not these blue color trails are made by bacteria. we've known for decades that microorganisms can produce pigments what we're doing today appealingly is expanding their production to an industrial scale with a view to replacing the production of patrol chemical dyes worldwide going on. on. 70 blatche and beyond. say they're the 1st to study this extraordinary natural process they're the founders of the french startup believe based in toulouse they see these microorganisms this great alliance that could be used to color all our clothes without any chemicals for years they worked to identify the microorganisms best able to produce color. these microorganisms contain 2 talks of enzymes firstly enzymes that down sugar molecules from detroit for example and secondly enzymes
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that can reassemble those molecular fragments to make colorful dye more cubes. in 2015 they finally developed a low carbon method to obtain pigment for dying textiles it's a method that's been used for centuries in the food industry you know we allow these microorganisms to ferment to bit mike fermenting beer. but instead of consuming sugar to make alcohol the microorganisms are consuming sugar to make dies . because of that. it takes a week and warm temperatures for the blue pigment to appear the substance is then tried to obtain a biodegradable poulder. the power is suitable for dying different types of fabric depending on the formulas we apply we can produce colors ranging from burgundy to light blue. this biotechnology could change the face of the fashion industry. the textile industry
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is one of the most polluting sectors in the world. it uses a huge amount of chemicals to make diamonds. 100 kilos of petroleum are needed to make one kill or die so in our everyday clothes there's a kilo of petroleum just for the dyes. if we take just one piece of clothing like a t. shirt or a pair of trousers for instance 10 to 40 percent of its environmental impact is due to. the. elite has set its focus on india and china the biggest textile produces the company dreams of transforming the whole production chain making it more sustainable could believe help to lose return to its heyday when the city was the capital of blue. during the in a sense the french city blossomed thanks to the hostile blue business the soft blue
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dye was derived from a local plant but the flourishing industry slowly declined from the early 19th century. nowadays to loose has abandoned the industrial scale production of the natural pigment but there are still signs throughout the city that hark back to the glory days of the business that. dates back to that time and has special significance to please c.e.o. . on this. one day billy kirby offered the city of columbus a beautiful building like this because it was built by people who were selling pastel bloom during the renaissance period. and. that's purely we are effectively going back to the story of to lose because they were creating dies out of plants until the 19th century then petrochemicals arrived now we want to develop a general production made out of renewable materials just about all the material
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and over. so far the startup has produced several kilos of dye powder with the help of the bacteria but they will need to improve the process if they're to compete with petro chemical dice to reduce costs they're planning to use a good cultural waste as a substitute for sugar. that's the big advantage is that we can take all of the leftovers like stamps leaves or other parts of the crop and used a source of carbon so we can kill 2 birds with one stone. 520-2170 plash and his team expect to be producing several tons of dipole to a year we might then be able to find cloves died without pigment but they would need more time more money and more production capacity to become a serious alternative to the petro chemicals industry.
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traditional crafts in india have off and relied on natural substances for generations and indian dried straw was incomplete without a bernard study a 6 yard wonder garment hand-woven in sync with gold and silver thread but hang the weaving is turning into a dying art as we both increasingly turn to mechanized lose that churn out in large quantities of synthetic and cheaper saudis now some indian designers have stepped in to save the iconic sorry and keep the croc for life. but an r.c. hindus to wash away the sins in the river got some to die and be committed. but about a mercy isn't just india's holy city. it's also this one hand to the saris with silk and gold 3. with
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a distinctive looking feel when odyssey suits are released or by word of the gods there must have the stylish indian women. so. the fabrics spawn. operated by a string of punch cards the determine the designs for the. looms of the foot. the physically demanding work is mostly done by men so. it can take weeks to make a single start. but scenes like this increasing. the centuries old artistic tradition is not. in the past there would have been a wooden handle in every home. entire families in these villages around involved
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and skills were passed on from generation to generation until this happened. in the last decade the seed of arrival of machines churning out cheap songs. and wiping out the handle interests. of. the we made the switch. he sold us 15 handled and and invested in woodlands and still. many artisans before us to look for work in other sectors. it makes me very sad. but i have to embrace new technology in order to make. production is now much faster i don't have to do backbreaking work anymore. unlike these machines. as well as at night and i make money.
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in the old markets. that's hardly a trace of the cities once which traditional machine made fabric and chinese made on the $100.00. there is a solution to save the handle industry. is a designer invest in us his company still makes a few handmade saris for the high end indian market. they can retail for upwards of $2000.00 but the market is changing this so. mean he produces and crafted fabrics for luxury fashion houses in the u.s. and in europe. they end up as designer wear on catalogues prices can be as high as $400.00 a metre. for the timing chain know times have changed there isn't much of
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a market left in india for people handle i'm sorry it's hard the industry needs to reinvent itself. to go with international buyers because they really value craftsmanship and handmade products and they're willing to pay much higher prices. back in the village that is allowed to employ $32.00 families on a regular basis. the readers here own between $120.00 to $250.00 a month. depending on the work and the skill. it's really about the market rate. the hope is that it will encourage artists to stay true to the craft when you create something with your hands your brain your muscle that's what some emotion that effort that thing is that makes incredible immediate style and which is of course is a building when they when they come before although they've told us i don't form that said i'm from the start to be baggy so it's small the more it's all
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frustration out of all our happiness it's something the norm so i think it's an incredible to see in terms of. our you can see they more somebody here than making a single thing of hambledon fabric. in bowls and entire chain of artisans specialize in different skills up to 16 different workers a part of the process. for the artist and weaving for the global market means adapting the know how and learning to innovate. she began again believing when he was 10 years old. learning the skills from his own father. he's been making since armies all his life he said the other with these modern designs i really have to concentrate on the finish and craftsmanship for these topics as. a body has a body i can't afford to make any mistakes because then i have to restart the
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entire process i have to constantly check the design and. it takes longer than making a salary. initiatives like helping to sustain the artisans and keep the craft a life. of peace cannot come. but change seems inevitable and the future remains uncertain and i would love to be felt all the news knowing not to be bothered any more than this cough cough and develop the problem of dr like it did aspirational goals that are on the bed this basically this all cut off for them it's a sort of i mean that's the biggest challenge because after 13 years there's no view of us at all and in this industry. if one of the seas remaining hand looms what a fall completely silent. it would mock the disappearance not just across. the way of life. i hope today stories inspired you to be the change you
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want to see we'll be back next week with many more substories each one taking us one step closer to a sustainable future good bye and have a wonderful week. the
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boy.
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want to be useful but all the love to. when you're sick the doctors. when you fall in love they won't mind you don't have children for fear they'll be invisible to. you if you have noticed. when you die there's no truth to ever exist. and every 10 minutes. someone misses. 10000000 people in the world the stake they have no nationality and made up a long and. that everyone has the right. everyone has the right to say.
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this is g.w. is live from the u.s. tells turkey its incursion into syria could jeopardize the fight against so-called islamic states as turkish forces advance for a fella today the pentagon strongly encourages and correct to end its military operations against syrian kurds in the region you'll hear from our correspondent on the turkey syria border also on the program. prime minister abu ahmed offered ethiopia when scene of peace prize for his initiative in resolving the border conflict in neighboring eritrea after years of cost.

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