discovery. documentary on. the. hollow welcome this is equal we need a sustainability magazine which keeps you up to date with solutions to future proofing a live show not a focus today is on the clothes we wear how wide and deep the impact is on the environment and what you can do to change that i'm sunk that i go coming to you from mumbai in india over the next 30 minutes let's look at how a fashion label makes designer clothes what scraps of waste book. how

a startup in france is trying to turn the tide in the polluting cloth dying industry. and how the indigenous but not a sees think sorry is making a comeback in high fashion. but 1st to an important issue of our times fast fashion has become a buzzword around the world in the last few years many of the buying new clothes every weekend has a devastating effect on the planet but don't quite like or have access to environmentally friendly fashion or delhi ringback based fashion still view is trying to change that boobage is setting a scalable and sustainable model in place to make fast fashion a thing of the past. we've . at this clothing design

studio in southwest tele fabric waste is seen as a valuable resource the philosophy is simple we don't need more new clothes that challenges the current fast fashion business model something this label does with pride. the problem in the fashion industry starts from the fact that it's been used on a linear fashion model so today about 73 percent off garment 3 stages go into langford's because there is lack of resolve the using the fabrics and the garments that we're working with. it was this realisation that led critique and due diligence to other founders to address the problem of textile waste in india and set up a design label committed to making fashionable clothing pieces from textiles waste

or upcycling discarded items it's a concept that has been gaining in popularity in the textile industry all over india as awareness rises. there's always a garment are called out of order. but then i got to gross us of those a lot of the jewels that happened so i could obs all of that on the small scale going on a lot but it's so much that has been produced and that exists it's about time that we start thinking about using what would i do that. government waste is not the only problem in india the textile industry is a major polluter india the 3rd biggest after plastic and paper. for india it's not just the garment with that you have to be concerned about it's the production we use that we have to be concerned about this to one of the largest exporters of both objects and on these in the way so all of the waste is just as

we're going to do i think at that level is still something that we're not being able to do with the amount of they're producing our. big bottom mental implications of watering and the situation is only getting worse by the day due to the surging demand for products use of chemicals the need for landfill space energy and water consumption. into a new 1501. and that fashion industry used up about 79000000000 metric yourself so that's that's huge and the single t. shirt is takes up about 2720 liters a flock of which is as much as most adults will drink and c.e.o.'s and that is a single t. shirt. then of course that toxic step that leached in the production. process itself which then impacts the communities around

a track she's come. due diligence found as used 1st of funds to set up the company 2012 now they have nearly 20 employees the seeds of inspiration are so on while the fabric was just being sorted. once out of the subject comes into this studio we start thinking about what kind of designs can bring all of them together we start fixing the fabrics in itself so that they can actually be used for either to create the clothes that we work with. that's not all the all to produce bags and other items and the scraps from their own production going to making other new products as well. whatever's left over after the bag and the collection is then sent to be processed into people this is what is now making our stationery products . and now our next steps are actually to think about

what to do with. india doodle a just considered a somewhat expensive brand with garments costing between 50 to 100 euros. presenting. since it 1st set up shop dude league has shown a collection every year at the lakme fashion week. like the fashion week is a premier biannual event in india it's a way of reinforcing the idea that trend based fashion is not the only way to remain viable in order to act. but not everyone interested in fashion and design or even other designers share their philosophy. they just keep questioning you at every level best to why you do what you do and at some point we've just given up

. it's ok it's ok for not understanding what we're doing but. it's about how we want to do it and how we want to. you know the products that. the labels products are already available in 30 stores in india and also to some stores but critical of things there's still a long way to go. like christie said not everyone realizes how bad an effect not really losing and recycling all truths can have on the environment our expanding wardrobes are a testament to that this next experience will help you make an informed choice the next time you go out to buy a t. shirt. how harmful is a t. shirt for the environment. it's fun to buy a new t. shirt and it's usually cheap too but the environment pays the high price why.

cotton is grown in monocultures and needs matter variegation it takes an average 2 and a half 1000 liters of water to make one single t. shirt. the cotton is treated with pesticides 16 percent of the world's purses signs are used in cotton fields and these toxic chemicals can pollute the groundwater. and then there's all the energy that is consumed to make 2 shirts electricity is needed to transform raw cotton into yawn. and finally look at production conditions 80 percent of the world's garment workers are women overworked and underpaid they manufacture your t. shirt for a pittance which is why it's so cheap. after production all these t. shirts are transported around the world but it's up to 11 kilograms of c o 2 emissions per t. shirt. so next time you go shopping think about how many t. shirts you really need. now high street fashion with dedicated

time and effort into finding more alternatives amsterdam based fashion for good is the world's. dedicated to sustainable fashion innovation and one of its biggest mandates is to help us if we think how clothes are worn and discarded. or just go shopping in any big european city and it's the same picture one clothing store after another but the lucrative textile industry is harmful to the environment which is why many big clothing chains around a fire response some of them supporting a museum in amsterdam called fashion for good it explores solutions to the problem right at the entrance visitors learn that say. thetic polyester fibers can take over 200 years to decompose so clearly there's a need for alternatives one side of bringing this innovation is to working with big

retailers manufacturers to help scale some of those innovators and start ups that we work with but another really important piece of the puzzle is to also engage the wider public. visitors to the museum can have organic cotton t. shirts printed with their own designs and the museum combines information and commerce by offering the exhibits for sale. you should. always keep purchasing that's the principle behind fast fashion there aren't even just seasonal designs anymore instead there are new collections every few weeks the museum office tips on how to avoid fast fashion such as buying less or buying 2nd hand visitors can save the suggestions on a personal wristband then when they leave they get a list of good resolutions for every day shopping. the museum is mainly funded by retail giant sink looting c.n.a. and online shops the land. visitors though aren't told that.

companies that are partnering with us they are on all their mentions already pretty deeply committed to driving change you've seen that through sustainability reports that they have. published and our other transparent about their work you also see that through certain collections some of them are presented here in the good shop that they are really pushing the envelope in terms of new solutions. sustainability is fashionable with the urban middle class and the fashion industry wants to profit from that a trend that can't be overlooked trade fairs like burlington's fashion week truly green labels or fair fashion have to prove they're completely sustainable from fabric production to dying to finishing and that makes them expensive but the amsterdam museum hardly mentions that aspect. some exhibition actually founded by

special brands so what they say interests them in sustainable sustainable this is a new brand actually it's remote and using new stuff it's a nice new made by the company of clothes so i think it's very important to have a deeper look to see but through high. in amsterdam the textile giants are getting inspiration from startups that are bringing new ideas into the fashion industry such as using recycled materials or natural dyes instead of synthetic ones. the big companies meet with the startups in workshops the museum has received 20000000 euros from sponsors to fund them. works for one of the startups. i think it's very important on the one hand to have a program where you connect the big companies to good grades ideas that are there so there are like lots of solutions for all the problems problems we have.

but they have to get out there and the big companies the big brands if they change even a little bit there's a bigger impact. those who don't want to wait for that to happen can get active themselves to slow down the fast fashion cycle. now the chemicals used to make him die fabrics are often toxic for the environment and for the workers in fact. 99 percent of all dice are made from 2 chemicals a france based company has found a way to make dice which let's see how. you this may look like modern art but it's actually a natural process at work believe it or not these blue color trails unmade by bacteria. we've known for decades that microorganisms can

produce pigments we're doing today at p leaders expanding their production to an industrial scale with a view to replacing the production of patro chemical dyes worldwide on the lawn. 70 blatche and beyond. say they're the 1st to study this extraordinary natural process they're the founders of the french start up based in toulouse they see these microorganisms this great allies that could be used to color all our clothes without any chemicals for years they worked to identify the microorganisms best able to produce color. these microorganisms contain 2 talks of enzymes firstly enzymes that comprised down sugar molecules from detroit for example and secondly enzymes that can reassemble those molecular fragments to make colorful dye more q of. in 2015 they finally developed

a low carbon method to obtain pigment for dying textiles it's a method that's been used for centuries in the food industry you know we allow these microorganisms to ferment to bit like fermenting beer. but instead of consuming sugar to make alcohol the microorganisms are consuming sugar to make dies . because of that. it takes a week and warm temperatures for the blue pigment to appear the substance is then tried to obtain a biodegradable poulder. suitable for drawing different types of fabric so depending on the formulas we apply we can produce colors ranging from burgundy to light blue. this biotechnology could change the face of the fashion industry. the textile industry is one of the most polluting sectors in the world. it uses a huge amount of chemicals to make. 100 kilos

of petroleum are needed to make one kill or die so in our everyday clothes there's a kilo of petroleum just for the dyes. it would take just one piece of clothing like a t. shirt or a pair of trousers for instance 10 to 40 percent of its environmental impact on. the. believe has set its focus on india and china the biggest textile produces the company dreams of transforming the whole production chain making it more sustainable could believe help to lose return to its heyday when the city was the capital of blue. during the in a sense the french city blossomed thanks to the pastel blue business the soft blue dye was derived from a local plant but the flourishing industry slowly declined from the early 19th century. nowadays to loose has abandoned the industrial scale production of the

natural pigment but there are still signs throughout the city that hark back to the glory days of the business. dates back to the time that has special significance to police c.e.o. . on this. one day billy kirby offered the city of toulouse a beautiful building like this because it was built by people who were selling pastel bloom during the renaissance period. they. that's purely we are effectively going back to the story of to lose because they were creating dies out of plants until the 19th century then petro chemicals arrived now we want to develop again a production made out of renewable materials just about all the material went over . so far the startup has produced several kilos of dye powder with the help of the bacteria but they will need to improve the process if they're to compete

with petro chemical dice to reduce costs they're planning to use a good cultural waste as a substitute for sugar. that's the big advantage is that we can take all of the leftovers like stange leaves or other parts of the crop and use them as a source of carbon so we can kill 2 birds with one stone and. by 2021 lashon his team expect to be producing several tons of dipole to a year we might then be able to find clothes done without pigment but they would need more time more money and more production capacity to become a serious alternative to the petrochemicals industry. traditional crafts in india have often relied on natural substances for generations

and indian rights truth was incomplete without a study a 60 odd one the garment hand-woven in sync with gold and silver thread but hang the weaving is turning into a dying art as we both increasingly turn to mechanized looms that churn out large quantities of synthetic and cheaper saudis now some indian designers have stepped in to save the iconic sorry and keep the craft alive. but an r.c. hindus to wash away the sins in the river got some to die and be committed. but about a mercy isn't just india's holy city. for you it's also for hand-crafted saris with silk and gold. with a distinctive look and feel the nazi salute salaries are by word the girls did

a must have the stylish indian women. the fabrics the spawn. operated by a string of punch cards the determine the designs for the. looms but. the physically demanding work is mostly done by men so. it can take weeks to make a single start. but scenes like this increasing. the centuries old artistic tradition. in the past there would have been a wooden pan in every home. entire families and bees villages around involved in reading skills were passed on from generation to generation until this happened . in the last

decade to see the rights of the machines churning out sheets. and wiping out the handling to. make the switch. just 15 hand movements and invested in far woodlands and so. many artisans before us to look for work in other sectors. which makes me very sad. but i have to embrace new technology in order to make a. production is now much faster i don't have to do backbreaking work anymore. unlike these machines can run as well as at night and i make much money. in the own markets. there's hardly

a trace of the cities once which traditional machine made fabric and imported chinese made on the trade or the really exciting. there is a solution there to save the handle industry. is a designer in better than us is from his company still makes a few handmade saris for the high end indian market. they can retail for upwards of $2000.00 but the market is changing very useful in this so. nothing is good martin i mean he produces and crafted fabrics for luxury fashion houses in the u.s. and in europe. they end up as designer wear on catalogs prices can be as high as $400.00 a metre. so says the timing chain know times have changed there isn't much of a market left in india for people handling sorrows. the industry needs to reinvent itself. to go with international buyers because they really value craftsmanship and

handmade products and they're willing to pay much higher prices. back in the village that isn't out to employ $32.00 families on a regular basis. that the reapers here own between $120.00 to $250.00 a month depending on the work and the skill. it's really about the market creates. the hope is that it will encourage artisans to stay true to the unique craft when you create something with your hands your brain your muscle that's what some emotion that effort i'm betting is to make sure i'm going to a limited extent i don't see the horses in the bidding window when they come before although they've told us i don't farm that said i'm from that's our debate. it's for them ward it's all for us this and all of all our happiness is something the norm so i think it's an incredible see in terms of a start are you can see they more somebody here again making the singletons of

hand-woven fabric. and entire chain of artisans specialize in different skills. up to 16 different workers a part of the process. for the artisans weaving for the global market means adapting the know how and learning to innovate. i cheated on began bleeding when he was 10 years old. learning the skills from his own father. he's been making since saris all his life. with these modern designs i really have to concentrate on the finish and craftsmanship for these fabrics as. a body as a body i can't afford to make any mistakes because then i have to restart the entire process i have to constantly check the design and. it takes longer than making a sari. initiatives like helping to sustain the artisans and keep the craft

a life. of peace but not. enough but change seems inevitable and the future remains uncertain. i would love to feel you'd be felt all the news knowing i'm going to be better any more than this cough cough and develop the problem of dr like it did aspirational goals that are on need to do basically this all for them it's a sort of diving that's the biggest challenge because after thin yes there's no reverse at all and in this industry. if one of the c's remaining hand looms want to fall completely silent. it would mock the disappearance not just across. the way of life. i hope to be stories inspired you to be the change you want to see we'll be back next week with many more substories each one taking us one step closer to a sustainable future good bye and have

a wonderful week. fascinating

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