greed for power and profit plummeted an entire continent into chaos and violence. this is the journey back into the history of slavery. our documentary series slavery routes starts march 9th on d w. when shopping for clothes it can sometimes be hard to decide there are often so many choices but the process from fabric production to a finished piece of clothing come have a terrible impact on the environment it is time for us to have a rethink on to make the textile business more sustainable walk into this special

edition of africa i am sounder to know you here in kampala uganda the pile of africa we've me is a my colleague mia to ivor sondra and hello to our viewers all the. way here in lagos nigeria saunders already said today we will show ideas on how to reduce our demand for textile pro-drug unlimited environmental damage of course 1st time a few facts and figures here check. greenhouse gas emissions from textile production amount to more than 1200000000 tons here that's more than from all international flights a maritime shipping combine. the clothing industry also uses lots of chemicals 3000 different ones can be used in the production of t. shirts. a lot of pesticide and other chemical residues end up in

waterways textile production accounts for 20 percent of industrial waste water pollution worldwide. fast fashion means clothes are manufactured ever faster and more cheaply retail is change that collections with great rapidity clothing production has more than doubled since 2000 more than $100000000000.00 garments are produced each year. and people tend to keep their clothes whatever shorter periods of time it's estimated that more than half of fast fashion produce is disposed of in under a year. only a quarter of discarded clothes worldwide are recycled. the rest are simply thrown away the total fiver input used for clothing 87 percent is eventually incinerated or sent to landfill that's the equivalent of one truck for every 2nd only one percent of the material is turned into new garments one reason is that the young

blended. new ways of processing old clothes are being developed one issue is the better separation of material types fibers can be repurposed insulation or turned into carpets. there's a trend away from fast fashion more and more people swap or give away items of clothing and buy new clothes that are sustainably produced and likely to last a long time. there is definitely a way to reduce the amount of waste and the need for production and that by showing that the close to produce are actually worn i mean possible by more than one person like the number of people standing behind me our next report comes from south africa where projects provide single mothers an opportunity to set up their own business selling access stock donated by retailers that's not only a good business idea but also

a good one for the environment. boxes and boxes of shoes and clothes and more arriving every day. when tracy gilmore founded the clothing bank 10 years ago she had no idea how successful it will become the project's partners include major retailers. all the major retailers and giving and face stock so this is all in the film. and i think one of the actually doing with the stock and they donated to us they can claim in points on a score card at the 5 that you're stopping. clothing for going to landfills and you also helping unemployment women generate decent income. the women who work here are mainly single mothers and many used to be on employed by the clothing at a discount and sell it for profit. taking any labels off the items and making

repairs. my life was in the way i wanted it to be i wasn't suffering i was thinking as i made to before and then i had about to see. that they teach people. they give us cheney in business and i always wanted to start a business by the name of how and how i can get files so. not all the items are new the women have a good idea what sells well. when anything special comes in there's always a run on it. the project empowers the women financially allowing them to build up their own micro to prices and is also good for the environment. quite a large portion of it was being destroyed so it was being set on fire or something was something was happening church so there's no we were trying to investigate there's no real concrete oncet we can get and but you know there is this huge

amount of stock prices about $160000.00 items a month just to give you the sense of scale. not only does the clothing bank projects serve an environmental purpose it also gives the women business training and teaches them about sustainability and climate protection to me what we're doing this year is we're implementing an environmental module where we're going to be talking about recycling and being a responsible citizen so that is in the development phase and we having to implement that from hopefully towards september this year. the clothing bank also includes the appliance back it follows the same principle as the women's project giving unemployed men. an opportunity to establish micro enterprises by recycling electrical appliances. so what we do is we collect all the plants is from our retail partners who have

most customers bring them into our system brand them and put them in a shop for resell so they always have to grade them see if they are a parable or not there's an entrepreneur recycles our affair will get sold in our shop and they will choose straight to the men come in buy the stock compare it and i say that. the items donated to the appliance bank and not necessarily surplus stock but items that are not worth the bother for repairing for manufacturers. just to give you a sense of what will be cycling through their plans bank the name in our program made $5000000.00 rounds with a profit in their businesses last year so that's saying it's a huge amount of stock but what is going to the landfill that is now being recycled and we used. a profit of 5000000 rand that's the equivalent of 300000 euros. for the 7 year old thomas lee he used to be unemployed working here has given him

an income and made him aware of environmental issues. we teach here how to fix this thing cns and those things that we cannot really say kobe you understand so that we can clean up the environment this way and that's been told there's a lot of things that is happening here that is positive haven't been used in our lives to date. 7 the clothing bank is a nurturing environment where there's always time for a bit of a dance before the next delivery arrives. and now we have to you're up to see how people are dealing with the mountains of textile waste fast fashion all that clearly still in style there especially with the young shoppers you are very right but climate change has many people in europe

and africa to take a closer look at the impact of the clothing industry a growing number of levels and start ups in the tech industry want to produce a slow and sustainable but how here are a few examples from the european union. these clothes come with a warranty the label next focuses on sustainability it's based in green fashion hotspot makes uses certified textiles and only produces small quantities when fluid in our line is designed so that our clothes or comfortable the colors are a little bit neutral so that you can build your wardrobe from season to season meaning you can always buy new clothes for next weeks and know that they will mix and match with older previous items us. this way customers will have clothes to last beyond their season a very different approach to fast fashion which is based on mass production.

i think it's a shame that some clothes are so cheap that customers don't even try them on anymore they just take them and say oh i don't need to try this on it's just 3 euros. and then later if they notice that's too small or too big not just throw it away. quality items from boutique labels are more expensive but barbara gephardt and her team offer repairs free of charge or for a small tip and they alter old models directly in their studio. next is one of a growing number of brands dedicated to producing long lasting clouds tom credit learn from the u.k. sells basics t. shirts white shirts and trousers that. come with a 30 year warranty. and start up sneak arrest news all sneakers so that your favorite sneakers can last for another season making sneaker rescue a dream come true for many sneaker fans. meanwhile the

dance label golden joinery organizes repair games participants mend their broken clothes with golden thread giving their outfits a new very unique look. what to do when you get a hole in that favorite pair of jeans throw them away or maybe it's better to have them repaired swedish brand new the jeans promises complimentary repairs for an entire jeans life span customers can bring their jeans to repair shops around the world to be patched up. and for the idea is to be sustainable and to offer customers good jeans for the longest possible time for many people dump their trousers and it's always a shame when they get ripped. a new pair of jeans costs around 120 to 150 euros here they're also 2nd hand ones repaired and as good as new customers seem to like the concept of the. soul but james they're kind of damaged but they're

the other personalities so the 5 of you can repair it the way it's so easy so it's really really cool i love it. next also recently began selling 2nd hand items this isn't really this is our vintage section where customers can drop off their old items and receive points for the new collection of the concorde. good you can exchange donate and choose new clothes. fashion that isn't fast but that blocks stylish and comes with warranties. our next story is also about fashion but here the focus is not of clothing but own head. we women in africa love to change away his time we like to go from straight to call a long or short and maybe a bright color every once in a while he'll leave expressions of a want of possibilities but the often made of plastic fibers which results in

a lot of waste now i am woman in kenya afford a way of replacing this think that extensions with a natural environmentally friendly muttiah. for many women their hair is their corning or if they are knocking it just falls into place and shines but sometimes even the loveliest head needs someone at this hairdressing salon in nairobi they use i sew for head extensions and braids in a wide variety of colors they are one of the saloon assume took us a bully came up with the idea to use a 5 buzz in head dressing she founded us a braids 2 years ago after kenya had been single use plastic products until then hex tensions were usually made of plastic i prefer. on say so because big

boys may when grain phone doesn't they make him grow it doesn't cut it when being painted size so 5 by extensions are not just eco friendly they also proved to be cheaper over time the hairdressers here say demand is growing. braiding with size of hair is very good because even when my clients and do their hair they still use them but if instead to care it's only used once before and then thrown away the difference is that this text will not to braid the next synthetic hair and it also states known that within 30 care i break very fast i sometimes dries once a week to cook a maggot almost for an. can omit as west of nairobi together size of lives and process the 5 pence together with employee as a care malaca. their

fibers are soaked in alcohol in solution to soften them and then left to dry then they have died. and packaged each set for they quiver and off one us dollar. is confident she could grow our business in relation to this invention is due to the notice from the central government of kenya. they said that this 1030 we are polluting the environment i removed and right on me so i stayed and thought how to remove synthetic ones when i tell you this they think then they take their biodegradable natural hair on a man's back to the saloon in nairobi 10 of their regular customers are committed fans of the new braids and extensions i sometime has enjoyed the support of the think positive alternative exists mentorship program run by the just command center

she dreams of setting her eco friendly fashion products around the world one day but for now she is concentrating on the domestic market in kenya. so it seems we want things to be not sure but to come in all sorts of color to unfortunately the substance used to produce those bright buttons and proves tend to be very harmful to the environment. you're right sandra and that's indeed the case textile manufacturing processes produce a lot of waste and one major source of pollution is probably dies but a startup in france is found environmentally friendly alternatives using bacteria to generate brilliant colors in shades ranging from burgundy to be sticklers. you know. this may look like modern art but it's virtually

a natural process at work believe it or not these blue color trails are made by bacteria. and we've known for decades that microorganisms can produce pigments what we're doing today p. leaders expanding their production to an industrial scale that would have you to replacing the production of petrochemical dyes worldwide and on its own. 70 blatche and. say they're the 1st to study this extraordinary natural process they're the founders of the french start up based in toulouse they see these microorganisms that's great lines that could be used to color all our clothes without any chemicals for years they worked to identify the microorganisms best able to produce color. in 2015 they finally developed a low carbon method to obtain pigment for dying textiles it's

a method that's been used for centuries in the food industry you know we allow these microorganisms to ferment to bit mike fermenting beer. but instead of consuming sugar to make alcohol the microorganisms are consuming sugar to make dyes . because of that. it takes a week and warm temperatures for the blue pigment to appear the substance is then tried to obtain a biodegradable powder. power suitable for dyeing different types of fabric depending on the formulas we apply we can produce colors ranging from burgundy to light blue. this biotechnology could change the face of the fashion industry. the textile industry is one of the most polluting sector. in the world. it uses a huge amount of chemicals to make. 100 kilos

of petroleum are needed to make one kill or die so in our everyday clothes there's a kilo of petroleum just for the dies. or dismissal of it and if we take just one piece of clothing like a t. shirt or a pair of trousers for instance 10 to 40 percent of its environmental impact died so that the. belief has set its focus on india and china the biggest textile produces the company dreams of transforming the whole production chain making it more sustainable could believe help to lose return to its heyday when the city was the capital of blue. during the in a sense the french city blossomed thanks to the hostile blue business the soft blue dye was derived from a local plant but the flourishing industry slowly declined from the early 19th century. nowadays to loose has abandoned the industrial scale production of the

natural pigment but there are still signs throughout the city that hark back to the glory days of the business the. dates back to the time and has special significance to please c.e.o. . on this. one day people a kirby offered the city of columbus a beautiful building like this because it was built by people who were selling pastel bloom during the renaissance period. purely we are effectively going back to the story of to lose because they were creating dies out of plants until the 19th century then petrochemicals arrived now we want to develop again a production made out of renewable materials. so far the startup has produced several kilos of dye powder with the help of the bacteria but they will need to improve the process if they're to compete with petro chemical dice to

achieve its costs they're planning to use i go cultural waste as a substitute for sugar. that's the big advantage is that we can take all of the leftovers like stands leaves or other parts of the crop and use them as a source of carbon so we can kill 2 birds with one stone. 520-2170 plash and his team expect to be producing several tons of dipole in a year we might then be able to find clothes without pigment but they would need more time more money and more production capacity to become a serious alternative to the petro chemicals industry. and now before we go we want to bring you back to africa to the island. way a group of environmental activists is working to make new from they are creating

fashion from waste their colorful creative designs trashing a lot of attention and raising awareness for the idea of reuse for the sake of the environment so let's go take a look at what they're doing. this is design a fashion on a more down to earth level clothes and show here are just as weird and wonderful as their counterparts in order to but come with far less fanciful price tags. and some jolly i that's no surprise there designed to make a statement and encourage greater environmental awareness and there are no limits to their make his imagination. the plastic container if you invite east. so. you'll be you know. these are the minds behind the creations

a group of young people frustrated at seeing their country and above all the sea choking on garbage they write poems discuss plans and exchange ideas and prototypes . the oceans campaign literally going to the oceans themselves but we're different our aim is not to go to the options but our aim is to educate people not to. look at the ocean not to spoil the orphan the deaf why we are different and we are all of the 35. we are the future. we're planning for the future the highly creative approach prevention and then repurposing not which people do throw away sadly there's no shortage of raw material on zanzibar the group also gets help from waste collectors. working with plastic takes some getting used to but with a bit of practice it becomes just another material for the seamstresses. their

clothes are genuinely designed to be worn in the case of the newspaper suit that means lining it with vegetable fiber. apparently it's a very popular item also on account of its warmth. my message is. that this should. make them fill in such a way that they can make the things they should bring up there are people everybody have art in them it's not that they don't have that everybody has but they don't bring it out so we want the people who bring out their art and me. this is a group of artists to literally take us on to the streets. they designed certainly turned heads and onto locals in downtown zanzibar city and if that initial surprise

then gives way to reflection about recycling then they'll have achieved their goal . i kind of like that suit made out of paper maybe i'll try and make one for myself also try to get you one of these bags made from fabric sandra but i'm afraid of come to the end of this special edition of eco africa highlighting the impact of the fashion industry on the environment that we can only say it's high time for action on your waist fabrics into bags thanks for joining us today on no tag we're signing up from the fast the park and lagos nigeria. see you next time and if you all of us out there know over an initiative that is helping fly to the tech so over the world think this is you get in touch of online all social media channels you will find the address is in the credits i am sunda to know get a new compilation donda goodbye for now and please do you telling us the recent.

mommy mom mom mom that sounds so warm and protective a lifetime of love but not every woman wants to be a little madison if you got being a mother and missing my identity honestly my mother if i start to be 19 i'm going to be coming in on the last stuff. and now going to see you selfish you know what overpopulated tough you know what we're going to experience when they choose not to have children. it's gone teetotal you. desperate

people. families overcome by fear in distress dramatic pictures from the greek turkish border. once again refugees are caught between competing political interest . scenes that were called the migrant crisis of 2015. these people have lost all hope some goes on good. 90 minutes on d w. w's crime fighters are back at the clinton africa's most successful radio drama series continues in the olympus odes are available online to get more so you can share and discuss on t.w. africa's facebook page and other social media platforms to crime fighter tune in now. on

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business b.w. news live from berlin russia and turkey agreed to stop the fighting in syria's dead live province it came after talks in moscow between president vladimir putin and turkish president rest of type bedouins the leaders back opposing sides a serious conflict and in trying to reduce tensions after turkish troops were reportedly killed by syrian forces last week also.