here jewel. the history of the slave trade is of africa's history. describes how the greed for power and profit plummeted and entire continent into chaos and violence. this is the journey back into the history of slavery. our documentary series slavery routes starts march 9th on d w. such. when shopping for clothes it can sometimes be hard to decide there are often so many choices but the process from fabric production to a finished piece of clothing come have

a terrible impact on the environment it is time for us to have a rethink and make the textile business more sustainable welcome to this special edition of africa i am founder to no avail here in kampala uganda the fall of africa and we is a my colleague. ivor sondra and hello to our viewers out there. we're here in lagos nigeria saunders already said today we will show ideas on how to reduce our demand for textile pro-drug unlimited environmental damage of course 1st i thought of a few facts and figures here you go check. the house gas emissions from textile production amount to more than $1200000000.00 tons a year that's more than from all international flights a maritime shipping combined. with the clothing industry also uses lots of

chemicals 3000 different ones can be used in the production of t. shirts. a lot of pesticide and other chemical residues end up in waterways textile production accounts for 20 percent of industrial waste water pollution worldwide. fast fashion means clothes are manufactured ever faster and more cheaply retailers change their collections with great rapidity clothing production has more than doubled since 2000 more than $100000000000.00 garments are produced each year. and people tend to keep that close wherever shorter periods of time it's estimated that more than half of fashion produce is disposed of in under a year. i mean a quarter of discarded clothes worldwide are recycled. the rest are simply thrown away the total 5 the input used for clothing and 87 percent is eventually incinerated all sent to landfill that's the equivalent of one truck for every 2nd

only one percent of the material is turned into new garments one reason is that the young blended. new ways of processing old clothes are being developed one issue is that better separation of material types fibers can be repurposed than insulation or turned into carpets. there's a trend away from fast fashion more and more people swap give away items of clothing and buy new clothes that are sustainably produced and likely to last a long time. there is definitely a way to reduce the amount of waste and the need for production and that by showing that the close to produce are actually worn i mean possible by more than one person like the number of people standing behind me our next report comes from south

africa where projects provide single mothers an opportunity to set up their own business selling excess stock donated by retailers that's not only a good business idea but also for the environment. boxes and boxes of shoes and clothes and more arriving every day. when tracy gilmore founded the clothing bank 10 years ago she had no idea how successful it will become the project's partners include major retailers who have approached all the major retailers and giving as they say stock so this is all in the film customer so. i think one of the actually doing with the stock and they donated to us they can claim in spite of it in points on the score card at the 5 that you're stopping. clothing for going to landfills and you also helping unemployed women

generate decent income. the women who work here are mainly single mothers and many used to be unemployed by the clothing at a discount and sell it for profit. taking any labels off and making repairs. my life wasn't doing well tended to be i wasn't suffering i was working as a maid to before and then i heard about t.c.p. that they teach people. they give us chains and business and i always wanted to start a business but i never knew how and how i can get files so not all the items are new the women have a good idea what sells well. when anything special comes in there's always a run on it. the project empowers the women financially allowing them to build up their own microenterprise is and is also good for the environment.

quite a large portion of it was being destroyed so it was being set on fire or something with something was happening church so there's no trying to investigate there's no real concrete oncet we can gates and but you know there is this huge amount of stock prices about $160000.00 items a month just to give you the sense of scale. not only does the clothing bank projects serve an environmental purpose it also gives the women business training and teaches them about sustainability and climate protection to meet me what we're doing this here is we're implementing an environmental module where we're going to be talking about recycling and being a responsible citizen so that is in the development phase and we happen to implement that from hopefully towards september this year. the clothing bank also includes the appliance bank it follows the same principle as the women's project giving unemployed men. an opportunity to establish my crew enterprises by recycling electrical appliances.

so what we do is we collect all appliances from our retail partners who would most customers tend to bring them into our system we did brand them and put them in a shop for resell for others have to crate them see if they are a parable or not 1st an entrepreneur recycles 1st our affair will get sold in our shop and they will choose to wait for the men come in buy the stock and pay with and on set. the items donated to the appliance bank or not necessarily surplus stock but items that are not worth the bother for repairing for manufacturers. just to give you a sense of what will be cycling through their plans bank and then in our program made $5000000.00 rounds with a profit in their businesses last year so that showing you there is a huge amount of stock that would have gone into the landfill that is now being recycled and we use. a profit of 5000000 rand that's the equivalent of

300000 euros. for the 7 year old thomas we used to be unemployed working here has given him an income and made him aware of environmental issues. teach you how to fix this mess and those things that we cannot really say coping reiners them so that we can clean up the environment as well and that's been so there's a lot of thing that is happening here that is positive that the venues in our lives today. 7 the clothing bank is a nurturing environment where there's always time for a bit of a dance before the next delivery arrives. and now we have to you're up to see how people are dealing with the mountains of

textile waste fast fashion although it clearly is still in style there especially with the young shoppers you are very right but climate change has many people in europe and africa to take a closer look at the impact of the clothing industry a growing number of labels and start ups in the tech industry want to produce a slow and sustainable but how here are a few examples from the european union. these clothes come with a warranty the label next focus is on sustainability it's based in a green fashion hotspot makes uses certified textiles and only produces small quantities when fluid in our line is designed so that our clothes or comfortable the colors are a little bit neutral so that you can build your wardrobe from season to season meaning you can always buy new clothes for next week and know that they will mix

and match with older previous items us. this way customers will have clothes to last beyond the season a very different approach to fast fashion which is based on mass production. i think it's a shame that some clothes are so cheap that customers don't even try them on anymore they just take them and say oh i don't need to try this on it's just 3 euros. and then later if they notice it's too small or too big i just throw it away for. quality items from boutique labels are more expensive but barbara gephardt and her team offer repairs free of charge or for a small tip and they alter old models directly in their studio. next is one of a growing number of brands dedicated to producing long lasting clouds tom cruise line from the u.k. sells basics t. shirts when shirts and trousers that. come with a 13 year warranty. and start out sneak arrestee renews all sneakers so that your

favorite sneakers can last for another season making sneaker rescue a dream come true for many sneaker fans. meanwhile the dance label golden joinery organizes repaired games participants mend their broken clothes with golden thread giving their outfits a new very unique look. what to do when you get a hole in that favorite pair of jeans throw them away or maybe it's better to have them repaired swedish brand new the jeans promises complimentary repairs for an entire jeans life span customers can bring their jeans to repair shops around the world to be patched up. and for the idea is to be sustainable and to offer customers good jeans for the longest possible time for many people dump their trousers and it's always a shame when they get ripped. a new pair of jeans cost around $120.00 to

$150.00 euros here they're also 2nd hand ones repaired and as good as new customers seem to like the concept. but childbirth james are kind of damaged but they have the how their personalities show the further you can repair it and it's so easy and so it's really critical they love it. next also recently began selling 2nd hand items this isn't for this is our vintage section where customers can drop off their old items and receive points for the new collection of the company of good you can exchange donate and choose new clothes. fashion that isn't fast but that blocks stylish and comes with warranties. our next story is also about fashion but here the focus is not of clothing but own head. we women in africa love to change our hair stumbles we like to go from straight to calling long or short

and maybe a bright color every once in a while hail waves or explosions over was of course when it is but the often made of plastic fibers which results in a lot of waste now i am woman in kenya afford a way of replacing this think that extensions with a natural environmentally friendly much. for many women their hair is their corning or if they are knocking it all just falls into place and shines but sometimes even the loveliest hair needs someone at this hairdressing salon in nairobi they use i sew for hair extensions and braids in a wide variety of cars the owner of the saloon some took us a bully came up with the idea to use a 5 buzz in head dressing she founded us for brains 2 years ago after kenya had van

single use plastic products and to then hex tensions were usually made of plastic i prefer. on say so because big boys may wind rain on doesn't sting they make him grow it doesn't cut it when being painted size so 5 by extensions are not just eco friendly they also proved to be cheaper over time the hairdressers here say demand is growing. braiding with science so here is very good because even when my clients and do their hair they still use them but the things said to care is only used once before and then thrown away the difference is that this tax will not to braid and like synthetic hair and it also states not only within city can i break very fast. drivers once a week took a comic almost for an. kilometers west of nairobi together side to leaves and process the 5 together with employee ezekiel malacca.

hair fibers are soaked in alcohol in solution to soft on them and then left to dry . then they had died. and packaged each set sells for they quibble and off one us dollar some took us a boor is confident she could grow our business in relation to come and this invention is due to the notice from the central government of kenya. they said that this 1030 we are polluting the environment i removed and right on me so i stayed and thought how to remove in 31 when i tell you this in basic then they take the biodegradable natural hair on a man's back to the saloon in nairobi 10 of the regular customers are committed

fans of the new braids and extensions and sometimes has enjoyed the support of the think positive alternative exists mentorship program run by the just a command center she dreams of selling eco friendly fashion products around the world one day but for now she is concentrating on the domestic market in kenya. so it seems we want things to be not sure but to come in all sorts of color to unfortunately the substance used to produce those bright bold patterns and priests tend to be very harmful to the environment. you're right sandra and that's indeed the case textile manufacturing process has produced a lot of waste and one major source of pollution is probably dies but a start up in france says found environmentally friendly alternatives using bacteria to generate brilliant colors in shades ranging from burgundy to be

sticklers. you know. this may look like modern art but it's not actually a natural process at work believe it or not these blue color trails are made by bacteria. we've known for decades that microorganisms can produce pigments what we're doing today is expanding their production to an industrial scale that would have you to replacing the production of patrol chemical dyes worldwide and on its own. 70 blatche and. say they're the 1st to study this extraordinary natural process they're the founders of the french start up based in toulouse they see these microorganisms this great allies that could be used to color all our clothes without any chemicals for years they worked to identify the microorganisms best able to produce color.

in 2015 they finally developed a low carbon method to obtain pigment for dying textiles it's a method that's been used for centuries in the food industry you know we allow these microorganisms to ferment to bit mike fermenting beer. but instead of consuming sugar to make alcohol the microorganisms are consuming sugar to make dyes also in the sugar because of that. it takes a week and warm temperatures for the blue pigment to appear the substance is then tried to obtain a biodegradable powder. power suitable for dyeing different types of fabric depending on the formulas we apply we can produce colors ranging from burgundy to light blue. this biotechnology could change the face of the fashion industry. the textile industry

is one of the most polluting sector. in the world. it uses a huge amount of chemicals to make diamonds. but also 100 kilos of petroleum are needed to make one kilo of god so in our everyday clothes there's a kilo of petroleum just for the dice. if we take just one piece of clothing like a t. shirt or a pair of trousers for instance 10 to 40 percent of its environmental impact is due to the diversity the. believe has set its focus on india and china the biggest textile produces the company dreams of transforming the whole production chain making it more sustainable could believe helped to lose return to its heyday when the city was the capital of blue. during the in a sense the french city blossomed thanks to the hostile blue business the soft die was derived from one local plant but the flourishing industry slowly declined from

the early 19th century. nowadays to loose has abandoned the industrial scale production of the natural pigment but there are still signs throughout the city that hark back to the glory days of the business the parlay a safe dates back to the time that has special significance to police c.e.o. . on this. one day billy kirby offered the city of columbus a beautiful building like this because it was built by people who were selling pastel bloom during the renaissance period. purely we are effectively going back to the story of to lose because they were creating dies out of plants until the 19th century then petrochemicals arrived now we want to develop again a production made out of renewable materials about older material and over. so far the startup has produced several kilos of dolly powder with. the help of the

bacteria but they will need to improve the process if they're to compete with petro chemical dice to achieve costs they're planning to use cultural waste as a substitute for sugar. one of. the big advantages that we can take all of the leftovers like stange leaves or other parts of the crop and use them as a source of carbon so we can kill 2 birds with one stone. by 2021. and his team expect to be producing several tons of dipole a year we might then be able to find clothes done without pigment but they would need more time more money and more production capacity to become a serious alternative to the petro chemicals industry.

and now before we go we want to bring you back to africa to the island. way a group of environmental activists is working to make new from they are creating fashion from waste their colorful creative designs trashing a lot of attention and raising awareness for the idea of reuse for the sake of the environment so let's go take a look at what they're doing. this is design and fashion on a more down to earth level clothes and show here are just as weird and wonderful as their counterparts in order to but come with far less fanciful price tags. some jolly and that's no surprise there designed to make a statement and encourage greater environmental awareness and there are no limits to their makers imagination. the plastic container if you invite east.

so this week you'll be you know. these are the minds behind the creations a group of young people frustrated at seeing their country and above all the sea choking on garbage they write poems discuss plans and exchange ideas and prototypes . the campaign. going to sell but we're different already. the options but our is to educate people not to. notice all the orphan the deaf why we are different and we are all of the 35. we are planning for the future the highly creative approach prevention and then repurposing not which people do throw away sadly there's no shortage of raw material on zanzibar the group also gets help from waste

collectors. working with plastic takes some getting used to but with a bit of practice it becomes just another material for the seamstresses. their clothes are genuinely designed to be worn in the case of the newspaper suit that means lining it with vegetable fiber. apparently it's a very popular item also on account of its warmth. my message to people that they should. rig themselves in such a way that they can make the things they should bring up there are people everybody have art in them it's not that they don't have everybody have but they don't bring it out so we warn the people who bring out their art and make the point this is

a group of artists who literally take it on to the streets. they design certainly turn heads and onto locals in downtown zanzibar city and if that initial surprise then gives way to reflection about recycling then they'll have achieved their goal . i kind of like that suit made out of paper maybe i'll try and make one for myself also try to get you one of these bags made from fabric santa but i'm afraid of come to the end of this special edition of eco africa highlighting the impact of the fashion industry on the environment that we can only say it's high time for action on your waist fabrics into bags thanks for joining us today on no take me signing up from the fossett park in lagos nigeria. see you next time and if you all of us out there know over an initiative that is helping fly into the text say overload then please do get in touch of online all social media channels

you will find the address is in the credits i am son getting a good income playing gunda goodbye for now and please and do you telling us the recent.

after. mommy and mom mama that sounds so warm and protective a lifetime of love not every woman wants to be a mother little madison if you got being a mother i mean losing my identity wonderfully my mother by studying i mean i'm an enemy county another the master. accountant seem selfish even know what

overpopulated. what women experience when they choose not to have children. it's a long t.w. . they're on a mission. to save the. marvel comics who started in 1939 since then they've created a vast empire of superheroes who also have human weaknesses. the creators have had their share of clashes the moving story of a comic giant marvel stores march 10th. d.t. you know that 77 percent of mapping are younger than the pot. that's me and me and you. don't know what time of course is

one how long the 77 percent talk about the. front part of the flash from housing boom boom town this is where. welcome to the 77 percent. this week m o t w. international women's day. we tell the stories of women around the world. their rights their struggles and standing for terry. who left the card for an independent self determined life unafraid to speak out africa or be developed when a guy is given a great time chances may be born. and afraid to stand out.

not just on international women's day. on t w. this is the end of the news live from the lead russia and turkey agreed to stop the fighting in iraq and syria is in live problems that came after the talks in moscow between president vladimir putin and turkish president gretchen type i do on the leaders back opposing sides in serious conflicts that are trying to reduce tensions after turkish troops or reportedly killed by syrian forces last week also coming up

thousands of migrants hoping to enter the european union are stuck at turkey's border with greece and grows deploying a 1000 special police.