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tv   The 77 Percent  Deutsche Welle  March 14, 2021 10:30am-11:01am CET

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so you want to know what makes the devil do you fear. the love. going away. i'm not even allowed to wash my own car and everyone was made of holes in everything. are you ready to meet the germans and join me rachel stewart on d w. hello and welcome to the 7 to 7 percent the show for africa's you with my name is evoking money and this week we're bringing you the show from my home town this will be your to full green city in the sun i'm talking about the capital of kenya nairobi. we have a very special show for you today so stick around as we take you on a fashion to an around the continent yes i said fashion today we'll look at what we're saying about ourselves with the clothes which is to wear. to the fashionistas
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of the continent of the congress. from a creative entrepreneur on how traditional patterns and techniques are influencing design and we'll find out how a beauty pageant is being used to fight stigma but 1st you've probably heard of the expression you can buy fashion but not style so well to hit the streets to find out what style really means to you so let's go. see everything about you make for me i can see myself cause i have to show you i watch for myself before people come out and see. me know.
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you know it's something to express your identity you can stand with people but because of your friends. people it's not about money you know. now i don't know about 2 but i want to lose people who could be in tracksuits all day but for most people i mean normal people this can be some thought that goes into what they wear every day then there's a 3rd category those who dress as an art form and if you've ever come across the suppose of the democratic republic of congo you probably know what i mean these men and women live for their extravagant style their performance and really africa's most elegant so let's just go straight to check them out.
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i call myself. and i'm a sub. is my style. i'm a designer. which means smartly dressed i train young people to become great designers around the world and i also teach them how to be calm. is a word in my mother tongue it means scarification of the chocolate people. when i was 13 years old i noticed the older guys in the neighborhood like where in fancy clothes they were always talking about big brands from the west. and something struck me which i can't explain i have laughed clued since i was a kid so in the ninety's i joined the movement. while i was an apprentice.
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we had a competition during the cultural day. was a guest. i was awarded 1st prize. after this i threw myself into studying design. in the ninety's i spent 3 years in brazzaville before returning home as a designer. i design is where i can create the styles indoors where it is common and condition and my work outside in a market. in the midst of all the noise i pride myself in creating fashion that doesn't exist in the world. i draw inspiration from animals and nature. to. sap stands for the
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society of entertainers for elegant people this is the old definition my opinion it should be the society of artists and elegant. he is a fashion curator and also a creative director across the continent of africa how do you describe fashion and style as a continent right now what does it say about us as a people i think trying to define or even kind of like capture. the kind of like style of the entire continent is is ambitious because it's it's a massive continent with such a diverse group of people i think that it's possible to see trends across the continent. but every kind of like different area every different country has its
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own kind of like nuances. i think one of the most interesting things to see has been this kind of record. action with heritage and heritage textiles so i've been seeing the works of a lot of designers of kind of like going back to these kind of like old. like traditional silhouettes and textile you know this idea that fashion can take us back in time as using traditional fabrics traditional prints can also take us into the future can we imagine a future through fashion absolutely and one of. a great example would be the kind of design a cutting and i think that includes work is so interesting because cotton glue really projects into the future both in terms of material and in terms of silhouettes i'm actually wearing a pair of pants from my collection from a think 5 years ago and around that time was trying to imagine a sort of like possed apocalyptic tribe which is so interesting because you take
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one tribe and you like project them like 100 years into the future and really trying to imagine what life would be like for them were based to be doing the kind of like same practices that they have been doing for for years and years and so i think that there's many many designers whose work. allowing us to imagine a kind of like different existence an evolved culture an evolved sense of africa which is interesting to think about yeah that's really interesting but are we buying into it as consumers understanding of course a production can be very expensive on this continent. i mean i think so i think i think there's a there's a new awareness there's a there's a growing esteem around. africa. and with that. there's also a very deliberate consumption and support of black owned businesses of african businesses ok that's really really cool and i'm really happy that you read you
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brought up african fabrics because of course i think it's impossible to talk about african fashion without talking about the fabrics from the dynamic trains to the color i mean there recognizable all across the continent and all correspondence my colleagues and i decided to look at some of them and this is what we came up with. and. people use it to see. even political and religious. printed on the. internet thanks yes fabrics. young people on a really interesting. race. and. on our region. 100 and.
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every single year that is enough to go around the globe 3 times. these 2 come across similar but they are very different only. the rest. cheap. imitations from. the emperor of all fabrics. these are worn by royalty at the moment. so if you can afford them you wear them. did you know. never wear the same twice. as a story for. the congo is one of africa's traditional factories believe that the white cotton was originally imported from america and it's actually slaves we used to wear it but to this day remains very
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popular among use africans because it's very beautiful and light. but today the congo has become an iconic part of africa and culture it's impossible to do anything really in this society without it some people use it in the kitchen some people use it to their babies it's used as a head wrap a picnic mat a towel and even given as a gift at weddings and funerals. be careful though if somebody gives you a can go you want to see what they're really trying to say to you because each one of them comes with a message right on the edge and some of them can be quite nasty not this one though it says empowering women through information i like that. the bizarre wait is in the country no i mean this fabric it is also known as you telling me conquer i'm covering other african countries it is commonly used. by women in zimbabwe it is considered dignified to
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wear the zambia it funerals family gatherings in traditional ceremonies the fabric is often decorated with a huge variety of colors and patterns these days even political messages and religious messages have also printed on the front. now this is a popular trend where young people like zimbabwean designer fairly 90 are coming up with stylish designs best on the african printed fabric these are worn jewellery marriage ceremonies or simply is a fashionista in most of the fabrics that you find in the country i imported from tanzania zambia in to a lesser extent china. ok so we've just heard from our correspondents and sunny i'm sure you recognize some of those fabrics that is the shoe cuz so now into these fabrics that you were talking about about the past what are you wearing 1st of all
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so wearing a shirt by orange culture and this is actually a dearie which is one of nigerian textiles so there's a which there's a degree of a shock here there's a quarter. of a couple of more that i'm probably forgetting but what's really cool about a deer is that it's died using indigo which is a natural dye. so i'm wearing orange culture yet and i'm also very curious about the the designs that are on the it looks like old african symbols right here so. orange culture we did a whole kind of a collection exploring a dearie and what's really incredible about a directory many of the textiles is a textiles have also served in a. as historical documents so you find a lot of the symbols that you find on on african textiles have meaning whether it's a story where it's a message whether it's like. a tax other was supposed to be used in ritual i'll never forget the time i was in accra and i went to see like some cantor dealers and i came across into deal as it sounds. underground in
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a very. and i came across a kind of i think they called it an airway and eric cantor used for food ritual and the symbols were like a symbol that makes sense and that represent things in. and that was really interesting a lot of meaning not just in the fabrics that are being used but also the this stories that are being written as you say and finally you're part of many i would say fashion movements of collectives across the continent what does that i mean what are you projecting as the future of fashion in africa what are you discussing in your various hubs when you come together. for much. but i think again for for for for the longest time. africa african fashion african aesthetics have always been looked at as inspiration so you get the global
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north and the designers from the global north who reference africa as inspiration and then they'll go and produce but we've we've not really seen the designers from this region. be given the platform to showcase their work. and that even in the time that we have there's been this kind of like the narrative around it is very odd but i think over the past like 5 years we've seen a massive shift so for instance if you look at. a major award last year there was an incredible achievement again someone like you say who. is designing a line for colorado felt that's a huge achievement has been very encouraging to start to see designers from the continent really rise and hold position in this incredible places that we never really had access to before because it means that our stories our voices our narrative start to enter mainstream and africa even necessarily seen only as a place for inspiration but also the place of incredible talent i love that and i
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can't think of a better place to end this interview sonny dollar thank you so much for making time to be with us they are listening to 7 percent now fashion is of course very much about the outer appearance and as we've heard from sunny it can be very impactful but so are beauty pageants but for the past few years uganda has been running a beauty pageant with a twist the men and women taking part in it are all hiv positive and they're using the pageant to raise awareness and fight the stigma that comes with being hiv positive. this is the big finale over 40 contestants are vying for the crown this is uganda's miss y. plus if you can patent organized by the ugandan network of young people living with hiv every year young person a scranton spire. this is a 22 year old. taking the crown is not the end of everything but it is. they stuck to my journey to hope to see young people of economics to be
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among the poor guerin's and their loss from care. 1.5000000 ugandans currently still live with hiv and this is especially prevalent amongst the youth. gladdest was born with hiv and she understands why many of her peers are scared of disclosing their status. we as young people living with hiv we experience a lot of things but they're this ones who can't come to this telling us that they're really 50 because they feel like maybe they're there to they really can't come out when they are on. their level of being assertiveness to. someone feels like they really can't make it to the end where they're supposed to be. in northern uganda hometown of. public disclosure of status has involved other young people to be more open some of them. you know meeting someone. new in
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t.v. like this from nowhere someone begins to really open up. the positive work involves regular meetings with young people to her it's important that her peers i'm stunned that while i'm eternally infection is irreversible. both treatable and manageable as long as you stick to your medication and take care of yourself. discussing a gated community is basically. popping them in disclosure trying to fall really irritating them living. at 22 already somebody that her peers look up to. in a lot of ways. schools. to really give inspiration that one hour or so go ahead like.
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reach as many young people as possible and she hopes that the attitudes towards people. even with all this talk about fashion i thing. we can all agree that it's our in our values that we really want to be judged for and fortunately we don't always feel comfortable in our skin and that's a concern of a viewer who wrote sex and relationship experts cares it's about to get intense. hello 2 there and welcome to the spread a safe space where we get to discuss everything sex and relationships today we have a new mother from zimbabwe who wrote in to ask simply after gaining some baby weight how do i make myself feel more confident and desirable when i can't even stand looking at myself in the mirror 1st of all you are beautiful and you are strong and you just birth a little human being so congratulations on being a new mom is a wonderful experience but it does come with
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a lot of stress unfortunately you may also get a few unsolicited comments from narrow minded people and i'm so sorry for you to experience this but positive self talk may help in countering this simply saying to yourself i am beautiful i am valid i brought a child into this world can help replace negative thoughts and feelings with positive ones you could even start leaving positive notes on your mirror society's beauty standards so unrealistic when you're bombarded by images of the so-called deal beauty every day it seems easy to feel like you'll never be tall enough or skinny enough or whatever the truth is we live in a world full of people that are different shapes different sizes colors and so on so for starters and follow every social media company makes you feel bad about yourself or makes you feel that you must compare yourself to them even family and friends but social media isn't all bad you could also check out some of the growing
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number of body positive ok and let's discuss paying tax while we're here who benefits the most from you talking down on yourself capitalism every time you look at yourself in the mirror and think i'm ugly you might be tempted to go out and buy . that new wonder must scar or miracle shapewear this only it's the flagpole don't buy into it dedicate this time to you and your child and take things at your pace we grow we change. it's like what women are also fighting a system of ideals that were built on the backbone of massaging me all bodies are good bodies you deserve to feel confident and desirable no matter what the media or anyone else tells you and if you're struggling with any of the postpartum mental health issues please seek the advice of a trained medical practitioner i really hope this has been helpful to you until next time from me kav goodbye. with so many options an ever changing trends
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how does one create something unique and find their needs well in can all in nigeria we need to young designer who are specialized in muslim fashion or what is called modest fashion and here's what. i cannae come by it's a freshest temple and the muslim world are some say it's been around for over 4000 years. but there's a bias here in northern nigeria extra special for 24 year old fashion designer. is more than just fashion. really holds in. length because in the show we know miley wants to wear some kinda to cover up. feel confident. despite living in northern nigeria is deeply conservative society. government making classes possible now skills she's helped more than 50 young people find employment. but i've begun lessons on offer than simply making clovis.
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here in india with love and play mimics and do you train to be 318 and independent and so i think this is good we encourage and do you see we always know that you can be independent and be through each year. but how do you actually make. let's check in with a pro at carlos biggest market. i try to bring out. the we have that you can be able to create unique abayas not necessarily do once. people know my view but i was saved main shia and sometimes i try to use song on clara a lot of tradition i wear and make some designs just took one sketch of the design . stuck to the scissors it's time for cutting step 3
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soit all together. it takes time i saw only a student's call have 2 days to make on a. student an explosion of the new freedoms my 1st intention when i came here was to just do it for myself because extremely tired of you buy an expensive clue thought i don't spoil it for you i want to revive dead. and corrupt fashion i want to bring it back into vogue so that people will take it back and hunts the cultural . piece by piece stitch by stage is brought to life for social media a lot of mouth clients know him from nigeria to egypt to the u.k. i should also give site designed a young fresh tourist long live style. well
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that's all the show we have for you today but remember you don't have to look like news manikins to feel good about whatever it is you're wearing as usual don't let us know what you think about the talk this week about you don't love to hear from you you can send us an e-mail to 7 to 7 a d w dot com or get in touch with us via social media as always we're going to leave you with. so take at until next time good bye. bye. think about. my life. in the sky. will be just fine. my life is. looking great other than it's been.
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truly.
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this is deja vu news live from berlin london police are under fire after clashes at the vigil for the murdered english woman sarah ever there have been calls to investigate the officer's response after politicians describe it as unacceptable and deeply disturbed tensions ran high at the memorial a man being held for the woman's murder is himself a member of the police force also coming up. voters in 2 german states go to the polls in the 1st test of a national mood head of this year's general election.

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