about here is not only disorganized violence, it's not only terrorism. it's politics. found it over 150 years ago. it's repeatedly died out, but always been resurrected. the ku klux klan starts may 11th on d. w. ah ah ah, ah. much of the world now wants to wash its hands of russian oil as the word ukraine drags on european countries are readying to ban imports of fuel. we'll take a look how russia's economy is fearing under this barrage of sanctions. also in this edition of made in germany, the new silk road is russia's war,

destroying what china built. and new york is the fashion industry ready to give full transparency on its suppliers and bangladesh. how's the textile industry changed since the deadly ran a plaza accident and 2013? i'm chelsea delaney. welcome to the show. now let's start with the russian word, juice, or an english friendship. that's the name of the oil pipeline running from russia to europe. but the relationship between the e u and russia has unraveled since students forces invaded ukraine. the latest move to sever ties is the plan to ban russian oil imports. that would just deprive moscow of a key source of revenue and ads, the economic gloom cast over russia's economy. as it's cut off from the west. marianne, who, to reports positions wo chest is supposed to shrink under the current sanctions. but there is a problem. the i non revenues are higher than they've been for ages in that's

because of the rise in oil and gas prices. but if you take a closer look, you will see not all him is equal. as immune ceases with russian oil is a political hot potato, right? now, under skipped us on demand for oil from other sources is growing rapidly because people are worried about getting burned by russian oil smith up and put a dish. many countries want to drop prussian oil. germany plans to stop imports by the end of the year. the e u is negotiating for that too. and the u. s. as pulling out as western democracies withdrawal as well is, what does that mean for russia? come to just sell its oil to china? do guns and achy in huntsville to cents is crushes entire energy infrastructure was built around 5 decades ago in the soviet era for its main markets in europe. the

depth dingle dusty visa vision, an ag market. and so the entire network as an the pipelines you are mostly directed west f, as in egg units, is still at a pipelines tendency to novice no escalate. of course, there are pipeline to transport oil and gas to asian markets like easterns, iberia, pacific ocean, pipeline, east, siberia, pacific ocean pipeline, warned it as well. demons, in fact us the company, but the capacity of the eastern infrastructure isn't enough to replace what will be lost if exports to europe dropped off entirely in the exporter in, in, not a whole part from the big question. transporting oil by ship is also problematic because shipbuilders and insurance companies don't want tallies with putin either on the journey is longer and more expensive because really big tank can pass through the suez canal. but tank as can be used to dodge sanctions. but my dad's side, seat guns are what you see quite often our tanker is leaving russia with russian

oil which appears in the statistics as russia exporting oil that is due told us, oh it's was an export here, my son already. but what often happens is that these tankers just sail around the world waiting for orders and distill martin, or they might ship the oil out on to the ocean, but then transfer it to another shipped of design of the mid way of passing under the sanctions radar. or sailing under it, i was eating, selling oil directly from ship to ship and international waters. is applied to disguise the origin of the oil and to evade sanctions. mm. russia's economy has suffered sanctions before, after the annexation of crimea in 2014. this time g, d, p could fall by 10 percent that could have wind repercussions. the biggest problem is the lack of impose miss alice was. this is not everything that

comes in from western countries can and will be replaced by china and even china doesn't produce everything that europe in the us produce. the deal was i understood that means the russian economy will face significant shortages spare parts for airplanes. for example and technology for the oil industry. digital infrastructure is also affected. russian needs a foreign partner to expand it's 5 g network. could that be china? does the she had saw? does a huawei isn't signing any new contractors kind? it's unclear whether while way will withdraw completely or just reduce its activities as well as the 1st initial with ob, c, r. so at the moment these activities are sort of on hold in russia activity in and else ice cream. and that will cause massive delays to the 5 g roll out. you put so many young russians no longer see prospects for themselves. the well educated,

in particular, on packing their bags. it's estimated that $50000.00 i t experts have already left the country on the pope. no, as it is from on this forecast from a russian association says that in april alone, another 100000 i t experts will lead on for the us and ran. deborah and missile called brain drain is massive, and it's not just in the i t sector, the i t long in the long term, the russian economy will take a serious hit lot. putin's won't. chest still appears well stocked full now. now the war in ukraine has also caused enormous disruptions to global commerce, including the oldest trade route and the world the silk road. first, a quick look back at history, back in a 2nd century b. c. up until the middle ages, the silk road was the most important, transferred route, scanning conduct, connecting china to europe, silk, spices, firs and porcelain,

were transported in caravans on the 6400 kilometer root. the journey took 2 years that he's like some are kind and bu, cora, both in modern day was pakistan, flourished along the silk road. but eventually trading shifted towards the seas because shipping goods across water was more efficient. but about a decade ago, china announced plans to revive the ancient silk road trade route with its landmark belt and road infrastructure initiative. our next report looks at how russia's invasion of ukraine is threatening china's ambitious new silk road. at the moment cargo ships are having to make long detours. russian ports are being shunned as our russian airports. western cargo planes are having to cover much longer stretches to avoid russian aerospace here. things can still be transported directly related to so growth is still in operation. the route between europe's

biggest inland port induce book and china's economic centers is part of china's belt and road initiative. the new silk road. it's 11000 kilometer rail root carries some 200000 containers annually and partially crosses through russian territory for china and the e u. it's an important project and for that reason has been largely spared from sanctions. you also, siobhan, is in law by russian railroads have been put under sanctions to the extent that no one in europe can buy or trade russian state owned rail bonds. will doubtless, on what using russian rail or fulfilling existing transport contracts is not prohibited or under sanctions. of been the commission has made it clear that there were land root between china in europe is also in european interests. of course that could change at any time. here, everything has already changed the ukrainian port of mar, you, paul, has been completely destroyed before the war. it was an important export hub.

ukraine originally had 3 big ports. the crimean city of sylvester boy was annexed in 2014 by russia. mar, you poor has been devastated in the latest invasion. and odessa is under russian bombardment. the ports are vital for transporting grain before the invasion. ukraine supplied food for 400000000 people. 10 times the number of its own population production has dropped because of the war. and export in grain has become more difficult. what was once transported by ship now has to be moved by rail. the problem there obviously is finding enough box cars or great knowledge for both haulage ability to take the, the volumes that used to go out by share the cost on at least double that to the silk road. the project hasn't been derailed yet,

but it's future is uncertain. it runs through russia, which is alarming clients. shipments are down like 30 percent, skipped out. it also has a lot of hesitancy at the moment about transporting goods. 10000 kilometers. do putin's empire in butts county office that's understandable if the issue is not so much with the boycott law, it's more about avoiding contact with russia right now. avoiding transit through the country. my middle logistics companies are having to find alternatives. do sport is currently planning to switch to what's known as the middle corridor. your mission. so i my law, we need to unload twice as far from me to cross the black sea. and the caspian sea is the free trial runs. are now up and running under real conditions.

but one problem cannot be solved. the route takes longer. when's life other is in? that's like, you know, using the northern route. we're looking at $13.00 to $18.00 days to reach china, depending on the exact destination. easier to july, the southern bypass will take longer term to remain competitive. we're aiming for 25 to 30 days. also compared to c freight, which takes 8 weeks. that's still very fast, i'd like to leave off with walking in one 0 there smith, whether in the cargo shipping air or train after the war is presenting logistics companies with challenges. ultimately, it's consumers worldwide, who will pay now, staying with the supply chain over and $1.00 of the world fashioned capital's new york city itself, retailers are preparing to reveal their supply chains. the big apple fashion industry has long been criticized for exploiting low wage workers abroad. and for

not taking its environmental impacts seriously. a new law in new york will give shoppers information on how their clothes were made. but will that be enough to persuade them to change their buying habits? ah, these seamstresses work in one of the most expensive cities in the world. here in new york city, they're making uniforms for us soldiers and fashion for international brands. we believe in making in the usa, although some people may think that we're a little crazy fur fur pushing that it's i think, part of our dna, gabriela ferrara, is c o of ferrara, manufacturing. she inherited the textile company from her parents. they founded it here in the garment district in the heart of manhattan, 35 years ago. fast fashion is all about manufacturing and selling as cheaply as

possible, and with no regard for the environment or work or welfare. but that's not gabrielle ferrara's approach. she believes the global fashion industry needs to be more aware of its environmental and social impacted having a global supply chain is really important. ah, having global standards is also equally as important. and so what we kind of forgot to do when we shifted all the labor over overseas is make sure that we maintained our qualities of how business is operate. and make sure that we're baking in that cost of operating at that appropriate level into the cost of the good sold. not, i'm hiding it and potentially creating dangerous situations for workers because they're not the factories aren't getting paid enough. gabrielle ferraro, supports the fashioned sustainability and social accountability act, a ground breaking new bill in new york. that aims to force the fashion industry to

be more responsible. the idea is that market forces will also prove an incentive to new york is one of the world's main fashion markets. before the pandemic, the sectors revenue totaled some $100000000000.00 a year. under the bill, fashion companies will have to disclose their supply chains and their social and environmental impact. if they don't comply with these transparency standards, they face fines of up to 2 percent of their global revenue. the law will also apply to all the major fashion brands and online retailers. many of the manufacturers and countries like bangladesh, where labor costs are low, and we're environmental, protections, and work or welfare are often disregarded. calona actor campaigns for the rights of textile workers in bangladesh. a because they enjoy to be so high. when you talk about the business stake bingo most was the bigger slice of the

quote you oversee, i, you know, workers and ending up a, somebody with is in year one of them working. it is 6 times at least you rise at a few cents more with their closing. that can issue a workers voluntary efforts to improve ethical standards and the fashion industry have proved an effective component after is pinning her hopes on the new legislation. oh really well coming over law in one only for those of this law. that is a provision for financial housing. i'm guessing maybe y'all will make this brass, i holy accountable. and if they are not meet the close is they with the life of this low back in new york city. everything and designer maria corny. house studio has been made sustainably when corny,

who started out 25 years ago. it was hard to source sustainable fabric. but times have changed. as more commercial companies are becoming more aware of sustainability, the fabric people, the tax l. c, was making more of an effort to supply and to come up with solutions for recycled fabrics and eco fabric. maria cornell is customers can afford sustainable fashion higher price tag, few items here, cost less than $450.00, but coordinate oh thanks, cheaper stores also need to bring about a change of thinking. i think it's a matter of little by little shifting the perspective i'm thinking okay, well maybe i'm not going to buy 6 present, geez this year, but i'm just going to buy one that i really love and it's going to be eco. and people realizing that he's only to own that largely to be the right things. new york's fashion bill requires companies to disclose supply chain and manufacturing

information, but will ultimately leave it up to consumers to decide what their wallets and that won't be enough says i assure barren blot she works for re make an initiative that aims to and harmful practices in the fashion industry. and so i really do think government has to do its job. you know. so this idea that we put this data out in the public domain and market forces especially and customers. are you the purchasing power to course? correct, i think is a balance the, you know, what we need is regulation that level the playing field. so that industry gone profit from modern day slavery from negative externalities when it comes to the climate from human rights abuses. gabrielle ferrara also wants to see the fashion industry smarten of its act. she hopes the new bill in new york will help usher in a new era. there's a huge opportunity now for integrating automation and new technology on

robots. what this does is it allows you to have operators trained on using that equipment, but are able to produce and keep their wage at a living wage level. i think that's where the industry is going, where in a lot of industries they're starting to onshore with the advancements and automation, gabrielle ferrara is busy expanding her production capacities in new york. alongside this, her company is developing new technologies designed to ensure it remains sustainable into the future. here in germany, most of the clothing on people's backs to day was made in asia. 7.8000000000 euros worth was imported from china alone and 2021. just behind is the much smaller nation bangladesh, with 6500000000 heroes all by turkey and india. 9 years ago, a textile factory collapsed and the bang with as she capital dhaka,

the devastating accident shown a spotlight on the terrible conditions of garment workers. our next report looks at whether things have changed since the tragedy. ah, more than a 1000, were killed and thousands injured. when the rana plaza textiles factory collapsed in bangladesh is capital deca. 9 years ago, many died in the rebel waiting for rescue. survivors struggles to obtain financial support. oh, i won't compensation from the government. i grew up with up. none of the effective was have been compensated properly, but they gave us hardly anything either. but what happens all the aid money that came from abroad? we need that money. remember, the country was in deep shock, international condolences poured in, along with the promise of change in bangladesh working conditions. nearly a decade later, we visit 2 of the country's largest textile companies. we want to find out if

anything has changed in the sector in the wake of ron plaza, just outside deca in ghazi, poor, the big him co company has built a new factory with cutting edge machinery and it said di works. it's almost doubled, company production. maxime co has 40000 employees, though most of the work is done automatically. every one from seamstresses to c e o can remember the countries terrible accident records run up. plaza was one audible memory which swapped over, happened live, bangladesh. learn from that and change the answer is yes, the allah issue. factories who from the point of view of civil safety, electrical safety, fire safety,

are the safest and lower and the workers were allowed to mask them. the company is popular. no one here has to worry about work, safety and wages are above average problem there. after they're gone. aqua are working conditions have improved a lot compared to the situation a few years back. according to robin bye, bob, this, we're going to read off it with my current salary. i'm living a very decent life by the grace of the almighty. hope a lot. 30 kilometers away. the me, taylor company makes fabrics for global export. their textiles are made as pre cursor products for the wider industry, colored and cut to be sold in roles. the company director says they pay fair wages and have to maintain environmental standards because they know the world's eyes are on them. he cannot say yes ma'am. this is like as a run up laser, it is it,

it has gone actually. so, so far heard about going on. it is really good. i mean government also putting their her hands and to make sure all these things would be a should be moving very precise way in terms of helping the financially as well as technically so there are so many things that are going on ah, for the, for the fixed and sectors are tool for they build since the run of plans, the disaster bangladesh has become something of a poster child for all of asia. the head of the country's largest union has been fighting for worker's rights for decades. he says the large companies have improved the smaller ones and lagging behind. they are this yawn for the whole novel clara some $15.00 to $20000.00 small scale garmin factories the which supply the demands of the local markets. the is, it will novelty. garbage has a little denise, 15 to 20000 factories,

workplace safety and working environment for the workers huddled are still in a very bad state. law. me will nickleby this orderly anthony government in dusty did the local i think it's time we upgrade the workplace safety situation with at least 15 to 20000 factories. i want the needs of, of the crowd can i will. london market is on the, they're focused entirely on local markets, a new level, and then we'll look casala cora will, to bangladesh is one of the most densely populated countries in the world. and also the world's top textile producer, missile says light war, terrace, gas, and often polluted dies and waste aren't supposed to be seeping into the waterways, even if the reality and decor tells another story. but the message seems to have been heard by management. me, taylor does its own complex wastewater treatment in its own plans. that's more than the law demands. so the fashion industry produces 20 percent of

the west globally. so can you imagine how begley we are the 15th for the water pollution? some intellect excel is completely different than others because we do have, i mean, different kind of mission. notice a fully automatic so that on jumps on a water is very less than others. even the large operators aren't making these improvements voluntarily in either health and safety wages or the environment. it took a legally binding international agreement between retailers, producers, and unions called the bangladesh, a court to impose them, every bungler, if he factory who wants to survive and has survived, or has changed a lot in the last 10 years and will again keep changing as the industrial moves forward and those who have not been willing to change

relock, have i done, have lol, out of business, or to really go out of business soon or once in bangladesh. both management and unions know that only those companies which improve their standards will survive over the long term. if they want to sell textiles internationally. they say they're quite certain. another rhonda plaza is no longer likely and we can all do something to next time you're shopping. be sure to check the labels for more than just the price. take a look at where and how those genes were produced and who made them. that was all for this addition of made. you shall see delaney from all of the team here in berlin. thanks for watching. ah ah

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ah, ah ah, this is the w slide from berlin. the european commission push us back on russian oil commission president owes a lot of fun. the line says that you should phase out in ports by the end of this year. but critics say that's not fast. and also coming up russia stripes, ukraine in the west, and the east bombs destroy power stations in the city of la v for and brushing forces continue their assault on the southern.