ah, with one of the many success stories fast enough bio diverse stores may 20th on dw ah ah, ah, much of the world now wants to wash its hands of russian oil. as the word ukraine drags on european countries are readying to band imports of the fuel. we'll take a look how russia's economy is faring under this barrage of sanctions. also in this edition of made in germany, the new silk road is russia's war,

destroying what china built and new york is the fashion industry ready to give full transparency on its suppliers and bangladesh. how's the textile industry changed since the dudley ran a plaza accident and 2013? i'm chelsea delaney. welcome to the show. now let's start with the russian word, juice back or an english friendship. that's the name of the oil pipeline running from russia to europe. but the relationship between the e. u and russia has unraveled since putin's forces invaded ukraine, the used latest move to sever ties, the plan to ban russian oil imports. that would just deprive moscow of a key source of revenue and ads, the economic gloom cast over russia's economy. as it's cut off from the west, marianne her to her reports perchance wo test is supposed to shrink under the current sanctions. but there is the problem. the iron revenues are higher than they've been for ages in that's because of the rise in oil and gas prices.

but if you take a closer look, you will see not oh, is equal as immune season with russian oil is a political hot potato right now under skipped us on demand for oil from other sources is growing rapidly because people are worried about getting burned by russian oil smith up in british many countries want to drop prussian oil. germany plans to stop in ports by the end of the year. the e u is negotiating for that too. and the u. s. as pulling out as western democracies withdrawal as bullies. what does that mean for russia? come to just sell its oil to china? do guns in a key in hushed will to sons is crushes entire energy infrastructure was built around 5 decades ago in the soviet era for its main markets in europe, with the depth dingle dusty visa vision and agi marked. and so the entire network

is and the pipelines, the are mostly directed. western as in egg units is still at a pipelines tendency to novice no escalate. of course, there are pipeline to transport oil and gas to asian markets like the easterns, iberia, pacific ocean pipeline, east siberia, pacific ocean pipeline wound it as will deem is. in fact, us d comments. but the capacity of the eastern infrastructure isn't enough to replace . what will be lost in exports to europe moved dropped off entirely in the exporter in, in not will come to the big question. transporting oil by ship is also problematic because shipbuilders and insurance companies don't tell us with gluten either on the journey is longer and more expensive because really big tank is can pass through the suez canal. but tank is can be used to dodge sanctions. but monday, see it's gone. so what you see quite often are tanker is leaving russia with

russian oil, which appears in the statistics as russia exporting oil statistics told us, oh it's was an export hill my somebody. but what often happens is that these tankers just sail around the world, waiting for orders and o m martin, or they might ship the oil out on to the ocean, but then transfer it to another shipped of design of the emitter way of passing under the sanctions radar or sailing under it. i was eating, selling oil directly from ship to ship and international waters is applied to disguise the origin of the oil and to evade sanctions. mm. russia's economy has suffered sanctions before, after the annexation of crimea in 2014. this time g, d, p could fall by 10 percent that could have wind repercussions. the biggest problem is the lack of importance miss alice smith. this is not everything

that comes in from western countries can and will be replaced by china and even china doesn't produce everything that europe in the us produce. the deal was i understood that means the russian economy will face significance shortages spare parts for airplanes. for example and technology for the oil industry. digital infrastructure is also affected. russian needs a foreign connor to expand it's 5 g network. could that be china? does this yet? so does a huawei isn't signing any new contractors kind? it's unclear whether while way will withdraw completely or just reduce its activities. and why is it for a c, a r. so at the moment, these activities are sort of on hold and russia activity in o ice could eat and that will cause massive delays to the 5 g roll out to use put so many young russians no longer see prospects for themselves. the well educated,

in particular on packing their bags, it's estimated that $50000.00 id experts have already left the country on the pope no, as it is from on this forecast from a russian association says that in april along another $100000.00 i t experts will lead on for the us and ran the brain missile called brain drain is massive, and it's not just in the i t sector, the i t long in the long term, the russian economy will take a serious hit lot. putin's won't. chest still appears well stocked full now. now the war in ukraine has also caused enormous disruptions to global commerce, including the oldest trade route and the world the silk road. first, a quick look back at history, back in a 2nd century b. c. up until the middle ages, the silk road was the most important, transferred route, scanning continent, connecting china to europe, silk, spices, firs and porcelain,

were transported in caravans on the 6400 kilometer root, the journey took 2 years that he likes to market and bu cora both in modern day was becca stand, flourished along the silk road, but eventually trading shifted towards the seas because shipping goods across water was more efficient. but about a decade ago, china announced plans to revive the ancient silk road trade route with its landmark belt and road infrastructure initiative. our next report looks at how russia's invasion of ukraine is threatening china's ambitious new silk road. at the moment cargo ships are having to make long detours. russian ports are being shunned as our russian airports. western cargo planes are having to cover much longer stretches to avoid russian airspace. here things can still be transported directly behind the silk road is still in operation. the route between europe's

biggest inland port induce book and china as economic centers is part of china as belt and road initiative. the new silk road, it's 11000 kilometer rail root carries some 200000 containers annually and partially crosses through russian territory. for china and the e u, it's an important project and for that reason has been largely spared from sanctions. you also shall bomb is in law. russian railroads have been put under sanctions to the extent that no one in europe can buy or trade russian state owned rail bonds or the absence on pas bog, using russian rail or fulfilling existing transport contracts is not prohibited or under sanctions. up in the commission has made it clear that there were land root between china in europe is also in european interests. of course that could change it any time. here. everything has already changed. the ukrainian port of mar, you, paul, has been completely destroyed before the war. it was an important export hub. ukraine

originally had 3 big ports. the crimean city of se vosta boy was annexed in 2014 by russia. mar, you poor has been devastated in the latest invasion. and odessa is under russian bombardment. the ports are vital for transporting grain. before the invasion. ukraine supplied food for 400000000 people. 10 times the number of its own population production has dropped because of the warm and exporting grain has become more difficult. what was once transported by ship now has to be moved by rail. the problem there obviously is finding enough box cars or great knowledge on both haulage ability to take the volumes that used to go out by share the cost on at least double that to the silk road. the project hasn't been derailed yet,

but it's future is uncertain. it runs through russia, which is alarming clients. shipments are down like 30 percent, skipped out. it also has a lot of hesitancy at the moment about transporting goods, 10000 kilometers through putin's empire. ok, and that's kind of all knocks, that's understandable it before the issue is not so much with the boycott. it's more about avoiding contact with russia right now. avoiding transit through the country, my middle, the logistics companies are having to find alternatives. dis, port is currently planning to switch to what's known as the middle corridor. so i'ma law, we need to unload twice as fast from here to cross the black sea. and the caspian sea is the 1st trial runs, are now up and running under real conditions. but one problem

cannot be solved. the route takes longer. when's life other is in the abs like, you know, using the northern route. we're looking at $13.00 to $18.00 days to reach china depending on the exact destination. these are crucial to southern bypass will take longer term to remain competitive. we're aiming for $25.00 to $30.00 days are also compared to see freight, which takes 8 weeks. that's still very fast. i'd like to leave off with walking. in my motto, there, smith, whether in the cargo shipping air or train actors, the war is presenting logistics companies with challenges. ultimately, it's consumers worldwide, who will pay now, staying with supply chains over and $1.00 of the world's fashioned capital's new york city itself, retailers are preparing to reveal their supply chains. the big apple fashion industry has long been criticized for exploiting low wage workers abroad. and for

not taking its environmental impacts seriously. a new law in new york will give shoppers information on how their clothes were made. but will that be enough to persuade them to change their buying habits? ah, these seamstresses work in one of the most expensive cities in the world. here in new york city, they're making uniforms for us soldiers and fashion for international brands. we believe in making in the usa, although some people may think that we're little crazy fur fur pushing that it's i think part of our dna. gabriel ferrara is c o of ferrara manufacturing. she inherited the textile company from her parents. they founded it here in the garment district in the heart of manhattan, 35 years ago. fast fashion is all about manufacturing and selling as cheaply as

possible, and with no regard for the environment or work or welfare. but that's not gabrielle ferrara's approach. she believes the global fashion industry needs to be more aware of its environmental and social impacted having a global supply chain is really important. ah, having global standards is also equally as important. and so what we kind of forgot to do when we shifted all the labor over overseas is make sure that we maintained our qualities of how businesses operate and make sure that we're baking in that cost of operating at that appropriate level into the cost of the good sold, not, i'm hiding it, and potentially creating dangerous situations for workers because they're not the factories aren't getting paid enough. gabrielle ferrara, supports the fashion sustainability and social accountability act, a groundbreaking new bill in new york that aims to force the fashion industry to be

more responsible. the idea is that market forces will also proven incentive. new york is one of the world's main fashioned markets. before the pandemic, the sectors revenue totaled some $100000000000.00 a year. under the bill, fashion companies will have to disclose their supply chains and their social and environmental impact. if they don't comply with these transparency standards, they face fines of up to 2 percent of their global revenue. the law will also apply to all the major fashion brands and online retailers. many of the manufacturers and countries like bangladesh, where labor costs are low and we're environmental protections and work or welfare are often disregarded. component actor campaigns for the rights of textile workers in bangladesh. a because they enjoy to be so high when you talk about the business between them most was the

bigger slice of the quote. so what do i, you know, workers and ending up with the, what is in year one of them working it is to, at least you rise at a few cents more with their closing. that can actually was workers, voluntary efforts to improve ethical standards and the fashion industry have proved an effective capone after is pinning her hopes on the new legislation. oh, really well me, old law and one only for those of this law. that is a provision for financial housing. i'm guessing maybe y'all will make this press and hold accountable, and if they are not meet the close is they will be placed on his low back in new york city. everything and designer maria cornejo studio, has been made sustainably when corny,

who started out 25 years ago. it was hard to source sustainable fabric. but times have changed. because more commercial companies are becoming more aware of sustainability, the fabric people, the textiles. he was making more of an effort to supply and to come up with solutions for resides with fabrics and eco fabric. maria cornell, most customers can afford sustainable fashion higher price tag, few items here cost less than $450.00. but cornell. oh, thanks, cheaper stores also need to bring about a change of thinking. i think it's a matter of little by little shifting the perspective i'm thinking okay, well maybe i'm not going to buy 6 present, geez this year, but i'm just going to buy one that i really love and it's going to be eco. and people realizing that you don't need to own that lodge needs to be the right things . new york's fashion bill requires companies to disclose supply chain and

manufacturing information, but will ultimately leave it up to consumers to decide with their wallets. and that won't be enough, says i assure barren blot she works for re make an initiative that aims to and harmful practices in the fashion industry. and so i really do think government has to do its job. you know, so this idea that we've put his data out in the public domain and market forces especially and customers, will you that purchasing power to course? correct, i think is a fallacy. you know, what we need is regulation that level the playing field. so that industry gone profit from modernity, slavery from negative extra analogies when it comes to the climate from human rights abuses. gabrielle ferrara also wants to see the fashion industry smarten of its act. she hopes the new bill in new york will help pleasure in a new era. there's a huge opportunity now for integrating automation and new technology and

our robots. what this does is it allows you to have operators trained on using that equipment, but are able to produce and keep their wage at a living wage level. i think that's where the industry is going, where in a lot of industries they're starting to onshore with the advancements in automation, gabrielle ferrara is busy expanding her production capacities in new york. alongside this, her company is developing new technologies designed to ensure it remains sustainable into the future. here in germany, most of the clothing on people's backs to day was made in asia. 7.8000000000 euros worth was imported from china alone in 2021. just behind is the much smaller nation bangladesh, with 6500000000 are as well as by turkey. and india. 9 years ago, a textile factory collapsed and the bang with as she capital dhaka. the devastating

accident shown a spotlight on the terrible conditions of garment workers. our next report looks at whether things have changed since the tragedy ah, more than a 1000, were killed and thousands injured when the ron plaza, textiles factory collapsed in bangladesh, his capital deka, 9 years ago. many died in the rebel waiting for rescue. survivors struggles to obtain financial support. oh, i won't compensation from the government. i grew up with up none of the effective one cuz have been compensated properly. they gave us hardly anything either, but what happens all the aid money that came from abroad? we need that money. remember, the country was in deep shock. international condolences poured in, along with the promise of change in bangladesh working conditions. nearly a decade later, we visit 2 of the country's largest textile companies. we want to find out if

anything has changed in the sector in the wake of ron plaza, just outside deca in ghazi, poor, the bix, him co company has built a new factory with cutting edge machinery and it said di works. it's almost doubled . company production. maxime co has 40000 employees, though most of the work is done automatically. every one from seamstresses to c e o can remember the country's terrible accident record. ron plaza was one audible memory, which swapped over happened live on lavish lawn from there and change. the answer is yes, the ballard issue. factories who from the point of view of civil safety, electrical safety, fire safety,

are the safest and lower and the workers were allowed to mask them. the company is popular. no one here has to worry about work safety and wages are above average. problem. there are, these are gone. aqua are working conditions have improved a lot compared to the situation a few years back. according to robin bye, bob up there. we're going to read off it with my current salary. i'm living a very decent life by the grace of the almighty, hope allotted, or 30 kilometers away the me taylor company makes fabrics for global export. their textiles are made as precursor products for the wider industry colored and cox to be sold in roles. the company director says they pay fair wages and have to maintain environmental standards because they know the world's eyes are on them. you cannot say yes ma'am. this is lake as it on our plaza. it is it,

it has gone actually. so, so far heard about going on, it is a really good i'm in government also putting their her hand and to make sure all these things would be a should be moving very precise way in terms of helping the financially as well as technically so there are so many things are going on ah, for the, for the text as sectors are $24.00 days since the run of plans, a disaster, bangladesh has become something of a poster child for all of asia. the head of the country's largest union has been fighting for workers rights for decades. he says the large companies have improved . the smaller ones are lagging behind. they are this your, for the whole novelty there, some 15 to 20000 small scale garment factories the which supply the demands of the local markets. there is a will novelty, garbage has at least 15 to 20000 factories. would workplace safety in working

environment for the workers are still in a very bad date? law me will nickleby. they swore length of government in dusty did the local i think it's time we upgrade the workplace safety situation with at least $15.00 to $20000.00 factories. i want to live and he's also the crowd can i will. london market is on the, they're focused entirely on local markets. a new level from low casual cora woochie . bangladesh is one of the most densely populated countries in the world. and also the world's top textile producer, missile says light war, terrace, gas, and often polluted dies and waste aren't supposed to be seeping into the waterways . even if the reality in dachau tells another story. but the message seems to have been heard by management. may taylor does its own complex waste water treatment in its own plant. that's more than the law demands. so the fresh on

industry produces 20 percent of the west globally. so can you imagine how begley we are the 15th for the water pollution? some metal at excel is completely different than others because we do have, i mean, different kind of mission. notice a fully automated so that on jumps on a water is betty. less than others. even the large operate his aunt making these improvements voluntarily in either health and safety wages or the environment. it took a legally binding international agreement between retailers, produces an unions called the bangladesh a court to impose them every month if you factory warranty to survive and has survived. a has changed a lot in the last 10 years and will again keep changing as the industrial moves forward and those who have not been willing to change.

re lord have, i don't have lol out of business or to really go out of business soon or once in bangladesh, both management and unions know that only those companies which improve their standards will survive over the long term if they want to sell textiles internationally. they say they're quite certain. another rhonda plaza is no longer likely and we can all do something to next time you're shopping. be sure to check the labels for more than just the price . take a look at where and how those genes were produced and who made them. that was all for this addition of made. you shall see delaney from all of the team here in berlin. thanks for watching. ah ah

ah ah ah, ah, ah, with ah

ah. with a show, the spotlight goes down. the worries about family members to ukraine. you notice how to sign into sports like they can forget about the war. at least for a few in 30 minutes, d, w,

abortion in europe. gold concealed prohibited the right of a woman to determine her own pregnancy, generations for trouble. but now it's in more danger than a conservative governments create threatening situations for women, medical professionals, and institutions. 75 minutes on d w. what's making the headline is and what's behind d. w. news africa. that shows that the issues have been the continent. life is slowly getting back to normally where on the street to give you enough reports on the inside. our correspondence is on the ground reporting from the all the trends doesn't matter to you. t w, news africa every friday on d w. one of main kinds,

oldest ambitions, could be within reach. what is it really is possible to reverse aging researchers and scientists all over the world torino race against time? the d. n. a molecule though has 28000000 different powered glasses. they are piers and rivals with one daring goal to out smart nature. for a longer, healthier and fuller life. one of the most insightful discoveries in the history of mankind. more life starts may 28th on d, w. ah

. this is d w. news lines from berlin. rockets, it ukraine's 2nd city har cave. as rushes east and offensive drags on here to cameras capture the destruction of an amusement park in the city. but a russian victory there is often certain ukrainian troops, se they've taken back several villages in the area of coming up. the european commission pushes of ban on russian oil as the bonded line says, the e, you should phase out imports by the end of the year, but could take say that's not cost enough.