with the other way, after all, employment isn't to recyclable. make up your own mind. d. w. made for mines with much of the world now wants to wash its hands of russian oil. as the word ukraine drags on european countries are readying to ban imports of the fuel. we'll take a look how russia's economy is faring under this barrage of sanctions. also in this edition of made in germany, the new silk road is russia's war,

destroying what china built. and new york is the fashion industry ready to give full transparency on its suppliers and bangladesh. how's the textile industry changed since the deadly ran a plaza accident and 2013? i'm chelsea delaney. welcome to the show. now let's start with the russian word, juice back or an english friendship. that's the name of the oil pipeline running from russia to europe. but the relationship between the e u and russia has unraveled since putin's forces invaded ukraine, the used latest move to sever ties is the plan to ban russian oil imports. that would just deprive moscow of a key source of revenue and ads. the economic gloom cast over russia's economy as it's cut off from the west. marian hotel reports pollutants. waters is supposed to shrink under the current sanctions. but there's a problem. the item revenues are higher than they've been for ages. that's because

of the rise in oil and gas prices. but if you take a closer look, you will see not all him is equal as immune season with russian oil is a political hot potato right now under skipped us on demand for oil from other sources is growing rapidly because people are worried about getting burned by russian oil smith up and put a dish. many countries want to drop prussian oil. germany plans to stop imports by the end of the year. the e u is negotiating for that too. and the u. s. as pulling out as western democracies withdrawal as bullies. what does that mean for russia? come to just solid soil to china. guns in a key in hushed who 2 sons is crushes entire energy infrastructure was built around 5 decades ago in the soviet era for its main markets in europe. depending on the

steve isn't vision and agi marked, and so the entire network as an the pipelines the are mostly directed. western as in egg units is still at their pipelines, tendency to novice no escalate. of course, their pipelines, the transport, oil and gas to asian markets like the eastern siberia, pacific ocean pipeline, east, siberia, pacific ocean pipeline, warned it as well. demons and fast us di, comments. but the capacity of the eastern infrastructure is enough to replace what will be lost in exports to europe dropped off entirely in the exporter, in, in, not a whole part from the vacation. transporting oil by ship is also problematic because shipbuilders and insurance companies done from tallies with putin either on the journey is longer and more expensive because really big tank has con, passed through the suez canal. but tank as can be used to dodge sanctions. was monday, 3rd seats, guns. or what you see quite often are tankers leaving russia with russian oil,

which appears in the statistics as russia exporting oil statistics told us, oh it's was an export hill last summer. but what often happens is that these tankers just sail around the world, waiting for orders and o m martin, or they might ship the oil out on to the ocean, but then transfer it to another shipped of design of the emitter way of passing under the sanctions radar or sailing under it. ah, it was eden. selling oil directly from ship to ship and international waters is a ploy to disguise the origin of the oil and to evade sanctioned russia's economy has suffered sanctions before. after the annexation of crimea in 2014. this time g, d, p could fall by 10 percent that could have wide repercussions. the biggest problem is the lack of importance. miss alice was,

this is not everything that comes in from western countries can and will be replaced by china and even china doesn't produce everything that europe and the u. s. produce the deal was i understood. that means the russian economy will face significance shortages spare parts for airplanes, for example, and technology for the oil industry. digital infrastructure is also affected. russian needs a foreign partner to expand it's 5 g network. could that be china? does this shit, so does the huawei isn't signing any new contractors kind? it's unclear whether, who are way will withdraw completely or just reduce its activities, as well as the 1st initial road up c, a r t. so at the moment these activities are sort of on hold and russia document in the was sent of ice cream. and that will cause massive delays to the 5 g roll out to you. but so many young russians no longer see prospects for themselves.

the well educated, in particular on packing their bags, it's estimated that $50000.00 id experts have already left the country. on the poconos, it is from on ms. forecast from a russian association says that in april, along another 100000, i t experts will lead on for the us and ran the brain missile called brain drain is massive. and it's not just in the i t sector, the i t long. so in the long term, the russian economy will take a serious hit lot. putin's lot chests still appears, well stalked full now. now the war in ukraine has also caused enormous disruptions to global commerce, including the oldest trade route and the world the silk road. first, a quick look back at history, back in a 2nd century b. c. up until the middle ages, the silk road was the most important, transferred route, spanning continent connecting china to europe, silk, spices, firs and porcelain,

were transported in caravans on the 6400 kilometer root. the journey took 2 years that he likes to market and bu, cora, both in modern day was becca. stan flourished along the silk road, but eventually trading shifted towards the seas because shipping goods across water was more efficient. but about a decade ago, china announced plans to revive the ancient silk road trade route with its landmark belt and road infrastructure initiative. our next report looks at how russia's invasion of ukraine is threatening china's ambitious new silk road. at the moment cargo ships are having to make long detours. russian ports are being shunned, as are russian airports. western cargo planes are having to cover much longer stretches to avoid russian airspace. here things can still be transported directly behind the silk road is still in operation. the route between europe's

biggest inland port induce book and china's economic centers is part of china's belt and road initiative. the new silk road. it's 11000 kilometer rail root carries some 200000 containers annually and partially crosses through russian territory for china and the e. u. it's an important project and for that reason has been largely spared from sanctions. you also shall bomb is enrolled russian railroads have been put under sanctions to the extent that no one in europe can buy or trade russian state owned rail bonds or the absence on pas bog, using russian rail or fulfilling existing transport contracts is not prohibited or under sanctions up in the commission has made it clear that there were land route between china and europe. is also in european interests. of course that could change at any time. here, everything has already changed the ukrainian port of mar, you, paul, has been completely destroyed before the war. it was an important export hub.

ukraine originally had 3 big ports. the crimean city of se vosta, poor, was annexed in 2014 by russia. mar, you poor has been devastated in the latest invasion. and odessa is under russian bombardment. the ports are vital for transporting grain before the invasion. ukraine supplied food for 400000000 people. 10 times the number of its own population production has dropped because of the war. and exporting grain has become more difficult. what was once trans for did by ship now has to be moved by rail. the problem there obviously is finding enough box cars or great knowledge on both haulage ability to take the, the volumes that used to go out by share the cost on at

least double that to the silk road. the project hasn't been derailed yet, but it's future is uncertain. it runs through russia, which is alarming clients. shipments are down like 30 percent, skipped out. it also has a lot of hesitancy at the moment about transporting goods, 10000 kilometers through putin's empire in butts county office. that's understandable. the nigger before the issue is not so much with the boycott. it's more about avoiding contact with russia right now. avoiding trends it through the country, my middle logistics companies are having to find alternative dis, port is currently planning to switch to what's known as the middle corridor. so i'ma law, we need to unload twice as fast from near to cross the black sea. and the caspian sea is the free trial runs, are now up and running under real conditions. but one problem

cannot be solved. the route takes longer. when's life other is in the abs like you know, using the northern route, we're looking at 13 to 18 days to reach china depending on the exact destination. these are crucial to southern bypass will take longer term to remain competitive. we're aiming for 25 to 30 days. i'm also compared to c freight, which takes 8 weeks. that's still very fast. i'd like to leave off with walking in my mo, there smith, whether in the cargo shipping air or train sectors war is presenting logistics companies with challenges. ultimately, it's consumers worldwide, who will pay now, staying with the supply chains over and $1.00 of the world fashioned capital's new york city itself, retailers are preparing to reveal their supply chains. the big apple fashion industry has long been criticized for exploiting low wage workers abroad. and for

not taking its environmental impacts seriously. a new law in new york will give shoppers information on how their clothes were made. but will that be enough to persuade them to change their buying habits? ah, these seamstresses work in one of the most expensive cities in the world. here in new york city, they're making uniforms for us soldiers and fashion for international brands. we believe in making in the usa, although some people may think that we're a little crazy fur fur pushing not it's i think part of our dna. gabriel ferrara is c o of ferrara manufacturing. she inherited the textile company from her parents . they founded it here in the garment district in the heart of manhattan, 35 years ago. fast fashion is all about manufacturing and selling as cheaply as

possible, and with no regard for the environment or work or welfare. but that's not gabrielle ferrara's approach. she believes the global fashion industry needs to be more aware of its environmental and social impact. having a global supply chain is really important. ah, having global standards is also equally as important. and so what we kind of forgot to do when we shifted all the labor over overseas is make sure that we maintained our qualities of how businesses operate and make sure that we're baking in that cost of operating at that appropriate level into the cost of the good sold, not, i'm hiding it and potentially creating dangerous situations for workers because they're not the factories aren't getting paid enough. gabrielle ferraro, supports the fashion sustainability and social accountability act, a groundbreaking new bill in new york that aims to force the fashion industry to be

more responsible. the idea is that market forces will also proven incentive. new york is one of the world's main fashioned markets. before the pandemic, the sectors revenue totaled some $100000000000.00 a year. under the bill, fashion companies will have to disclose their supply chains and their social and environmental impact. if they don't comply with these transparency standards, they face fines of up to 2 percent of their global revenue. the law will also apply to all the major fashion brands and online retailers. many of the manufacturers and countries like bangladesh, where labor costs are low and we're environmental protections and work or welfare are often disregarded. calona actor campaigns for the rights of textile workers in bangladesh. a because they enjoy to be going to be so high when you talk about the business day between

them most was the bigger slice of the quote. so what do i, you know, workers and ending up with is in year one of them working it is to at least hello e. raz su says more with their something that can issue a workers voluntary efforts to improve ethical standards. and the fashion industry have proved effective capone after is pinning her hopes on the new legislation. oh really well tell me old law in one only for those of this law. that is a provision for financial housing. i'm guessing maybe y'all will make this grass. i hold me accountable and if they are not meet the close is they will be placed under this low back in new york city. everything and designer, maria cornejo studio has been made sustainably when corny who started out 25 years

ago. it was hard to source sustainable fabric, but times have changed. because more commercial companies are becoming more aware of sustainability that the fabric people that type sales people are making more of an effort to supply and to come out with solutions for reside will fabrics and eco fab regularly maria. corny host customers can afford sustainable fashion higher price tag. few items here cost less than $450.00, but coordinate ho, thanks cheaper stores also need to bring about a change of thinking. i think is the motto. little by little shifting the perspective i'm thinking okay, well maybe i'm not gonna buy 6 present jays this year, but i'm just going to buy one. the i wait a love on is gonna be eco, and people realizing that he's only to own that lodge needs to be the right things . new york fashion bill requires companies to disclose supply chain and

manufacturing information, but will ultimately leave it up to consumers to decide with their wallets. and that won't be enough, says i a sharon blot she works for re make an initiative that aims to and harmful practices in the fashion industry. and so i really do think government has to do its job. you know, so this idea that we've put this data out in the public domain and market forces especially and customers. will you the purchasing power to course? correct, i think is a balance the, you know, what we need is regulation that level the playing field. so that industry gone profit from modernity, slavery from negative extra analogies when it comes to the climate from human rights abuses. gabrielle ferrara also wants to see the fashion industry smarten of its act. she hopes the new bill in new york will help usher in a new era. there's a huge opportunity now for integrating automation and new technology and

our robots. what this does is it allows you to have operators trained on using that equipment, but are able to produce and keep their wage at a living wage level. i think that's where the industry is going, where in a lot of industries they're starting to onshore with the advancements and automation, gabrielle ferrara is busy expanding her production capacities in new york. alongside this, her company is developing new technologies designed to ensure it remains sustainable into the future. here in germany, most of the clothing on people's backs to day was made in asia. 7.8000000000 euros worth was imported from china alone in 2021. just behind is the much smaller nation bangladesh. with 6500000000 rose all by turkey and india. 9 years ago,

a textile factory collapsed and the bangladesh capital dhaka, the devastating accident shown a spotlight on the terrible conditions of garment workers. our next report looks at whether things have changed since the tragedy blue, more than a 1000, were killed and thousands injured. when the rana plaza textiles factory collapsed in bangladesh, his capital deca 9 years ago, many died in the rubble waiting for rescue. survivors struggles to obtain financial support. oh, i won't compensation from a government. i go with up none of the effective one cuz have been compensated properly. they gave us hardly anything either, but what happens all the aid money that came from abroad? we need that money. remember, the country was in deep shock, international condolences poured in, along with the promise of change in bangladesh working conditions. nearly a decade later, we visit 2 of the country's largest textile companies. we want to find out if

anything has changed in the sector in the wake of ron plaza, just outside deca in gussie, poor, the big him co company has built a new factory with cutting edge machinery. and it said deli works. it's almost doubled. company production. maxime co has 40000 employees, though most of the work is done automatically. every one from seamstresses to c. e. o can remember the country's terrible accident record rama plaza was one 0, horrible memory which swapped over ivan, did my mother learn from their dungeon? the answer is yes, the bank that issue factories who from the point of view of civil safety,

electric and safety fire safety are the safest in the world. and the workers were allowed to offer them. the company is popular. no one here has to worry about work, safety and wages are above average. they're acting on are working conditions, have improved a lot compared to the situation a few years back to them by bother with the fruit of it with my current salary. i'm living a very decent life by the grace of the almighty football lot. 30 kilometers away the me kayla company makes fabrics for global export. textiles are made as pre cursor products for the wider industry, colored and cost to be sold in roles. the company director says they pay fair wages and have to maintain environmental standards because they know the world's eyes around them. you cannot say yes, but this is like as an apple, as it is, it,

it has gone actually. so, so far heard about going on, it is really good. i mean, government also putting their hand and to make sure all these things would be should be moving very precise way in terms of helping the financially as well as technically. so there are so many things going on for the, for the text as victors to, for the run up trans bangladesh has become something of a poster child for all of asia. the head of the country's largest union has been fighting for workers rights for decades. he says the large companies have improved the small of on this a lagging behind they are they feel that the whole novel clarify some 15 to 20000 small scale garmen factories the which supply the demands of the local markets. the asia will novelty. garbage has a little denise. 15220000 factories,

little workplace safety and working environment for the workers huddled are still in a very bad state. the army will nickleby. this war length of government in dusty did the local. i think it's time we upgrade the workplace safety situation with at least 15220000 factories. and one of the needs of, of the ground can i will. london market is on the they're focused entirely on local markets. a new level, the one low casual up coral woochie bangladesh is one of the most densely populated countries in the world. and also the world's top textile producer, missile says light war terrace gas and often pollutants dies and waste aren't supposed to be seeping into the waterways. even if the reality in dachau tells another story. but the message seems to have been heard by management. me, taylor does its own complex waste water treatment in its own plant. that's more than the law demands. so the 1st on industry produces 20 percent

of the whist globally. so can you imagine how badly we are the 15th for the what does pollution submitted to excel is completely different than others because we do have, i mean, different kinds of missionaries are fully automated. so that jumps on a water is very less than others. even the knowledge operators are making these improvements voluntarily in either health and safety wages, all the environment. it took a legally binding international agreement between retailers, producers, and unions called the bangladesh record to impose them every month if you factory wants to survive and has survived, has changed a lot in the last 10 years and will again keep changing as the industrial moves forward and those who have not been willing to change

will not have either have gone out of business or really go out of business for once in bangladesh. both management and unions know that only those companies which improve their standards will survive over the long term. if they want to sell textiles internationally. they say they're quite certain. another random plaza is no longer likely and we can all do something to next time you're shopping. be sure to check the labels for more than just the price. take a look at where and how those genes were produced and who made them. that was all for this addition of made from selfie delaney from all of the team here in berlin. thanks for watching. ah ah

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ah ah ah ah, ah, the shows the school on the 20th spotlight goes don't to worry about family members to ukrainian out of town to sign into sports like they can forget about the war at least for a few focus in 30 minutes dw, into the conflict zone,

with tim sebastian. more than 2 months into the war in ukraine on both sides and taking heavy losses. my guess this week is last year basil and co polity. human human rights lawyer who joins me from kia. what makes us so sure, mister putin wouldn't press his nuclear conflict on 90 minutes. on d. w. o, one of mankind's oldest ambitions could be within reach. or what is it really is possible to reverse aging researchers and scientists all over the world torino

race against time? ah, the dna molecules though, has 28000000 different our colossus. they are peers and rivals, with one daring goal to out smart nature for a longer, healthier and fuller life. one of the most insightful discoveries in the history of mankind. more life starts may 28th on d, w. ah

ah ah ah, this is dw news live from berlin. ukraine says russian forces have the guns storming the as of steel plant. hundreds of civilians are believed to still be trapped inside their hopes. now pinned on a new russian promise for a ceasefire to allow them to leave mario full safely. also coming up how the war in ukraine is leaving more people than ever facing salvation. rising food prices, combining with extra.