this is a bad news that saw me look a lot that goes, i'm also not. he is a reminder of the top story we're following for you. russian forces have entered the outskirts of the east and ukrainian city office, david odon. yet ukraine says its troops are battling to hold their positions of the days of intense channing in watching dw news coming up after a short break close up heads to chile, where the accommodation tests become a dumping ground from the fashion industry. i'm monica jones from the team. thanks for watching. shaggy is just a thought they were great with east

of chiles. pacific coast. a shocking sight. a dumping ground for used clothing. tons and tons. much of it comes from europe. this bank definitely comes from germany, watched on this desert. dumping ground tells an ugly truth about fast fashion with we're producing more clothing and throwing it away, faster, a lucrative business for some people with it has economic benefits for

people who work here and for investors school. going to look in the sunny south america has become a dumping ground with it. but on what you throw away is what we went by sorta why has the gun and production industry gone so badly? rome and who is paying the real price of fast fashioned al search for answers takes us to south america with

we're in the attic come a desert in northern sheila, where some of the global fashion industries, discarded clothing ends up. locals are taking us to a dumpsite, past settlements of make shift hunts. we drive past piles of used, tie as then clothing, heaps, and heaps of it. a vast landfill site for textiles in the middle of the desert. the stench of chemical vapors hangs in the air. freddie is a local man, he's outraged by these mountains of discounted clothes you're with. are you a fair? it is of the mark now in the summer. there are a lot of fires. florida where the textiles are highly flammable. bit of fire starts

by itself, and everything goes up in flames. equal means out of it. but for some families, the landfill is a source of income you and ian revere cocaine laurel. people come here to find clothes for themselves or to showed secondhand markets in town would have been already on the end of the program. there's no one here at the moment because there is just been a firewall. we don't we don't. jennifer jennifer, i'm fine. the robot a graveyard for used and unsold fast fashion. manuel olivo is in charge here and there. she picks up surplus textiles in town and transport them to the dumpster. so you have unilateral by the door or by you say bit of it. no, it's not a robot. the clothing comes from all over the world. they are sometimes i go and collected from local shops will asada to say, oh no, but i go to the warehouse is

a local phone. i ask if they have any steps they can give me and go see if they do i rent a truck and bring it all here. what can i start back on one flip. the ila die la la robot. any one who wants to take her clothes has to pay her. i'm benya. you have no milk white glove on campus, said daniel young pacific, when i started doing this a long time ago, one them back then it was in may your, in my home town for the 1st time b, m premier and more and more people settled here that was about 8 or even 12 years ago, or short dorothy, no signal mothers of santa manuela and her husband live in a ramshackle hot surrounded by mountains of used textiles. there is no electricity or running water. it, i'm a ranked if i'm electrically at work. at one point there were 20 families living here with what some of them left and stopped working with help grow dark on the

land, but are not across like had been present recently. tv cruise from around the world have come to report on the clothes dumping ground. manuel olivas tells them about her plight. she leaves off a poultry state pension, the equivalent of just $115.00 euros a month. her husband is sick. there all alone. go moving, can we? we are hot outside town, you know law leaves no that no one will see what they're up to. so they come here and robin slant harrington. i'm in the urine farmer. they've taken my rabbits, my ducks and pigs, even my birds saw huddled around for your mother in law. oh, the couple still have a few animals left, but they leave in constant fear of being robbed again. they are not in compassion, lena? no, no, no one takes pity on us. oh god, i keep chickens and docks at least. and here and there i grow some plants, grey. oh you then we'll nation, bro, yahoo!

the money they make from recycling clothes is much needed regularly as it was. if we left it as they struggle to make ends meet, rejected clothing produced in china and bungler dash and sold in the us. and europe continues to pile up around them from the town of alto, species is covered in a thin film of sand. 40 years ago, it was nothing but desert here, the establishment of a free trade zone, kick started the local economy and created new problems. it go, ortega from the local environment office explains that the government did law here in alto hospice. johan, we are dealing with the most acute environmental problems in the whole region. i get them what been a theater in the desert surrounding the town? every one does whatever they want. none of us elegant together. he knows exactly

who to blame for the landfill sites. immortal in the used clothing business is highly lucrative for importers of secondhand textiles and a key case, free trade zone and e. the soda. at the moment, there are 53 of these companies and thereby get andro by their business model is very profitable in quantum wayland, but only for them, but also it's detrimental to the wider community. they don't have a one hour we had to e t k. the provincial capital is sandwiched between the desert and the pacific. this used to be a depressed region, then the free trade zone. so free was created, and a container port was built. companies operating here enjoy various tax exemptions. dario blanco, head of the key k free trade zone uses association kohls this offering

a roaring success in economic terms, at least had put a fellow on a franca, a come one of the free trade zone was a political project. it meant that a lot of people from elsewhere settled here, not in the arid desert region when people, even if you terrific when it created economic advantages for people who move t k for work as well as for investors will damage on place i left on importers of discarded and unsold clothes, also benefit from tax exemptions. we come across american brands as well as governments that clearly from germany, dealers distinguish between 3 categories. yeah, and for the fed 8. 0, the worst category is clothes with stains or homes in grow that go white. we discard ha and it'll go to the like, let me be russian. and estimated 40 percent of what's imported ends up thrown out.

when they go with it varies from container to container anyway. sometimes the contents are in good condition. with others, we have to throw out a lot of sub standard items. sheila, in latin, america's main importer of discarded clothing, importing tens of thousands of tons per year. some of it comes from germany, we see one store that advertises clothes from hamburg, neighboring countries restrict or forbid the import of used clothes, not chilling, which has become an international dumping ground back at the landfill. freddy and figuring out where the clothes come from. we find a pair of trousers from the dominican republic. usually got many gun on me. and then i find textile grant from germany,

apartment management and then press. the tele rejected clothing dumped in the attic . kama desert repeat. pay to sign out by d. obviously. stop from germany of ending up front all we also find video cassette, a german phone book, and a pair of socks with a price tag in euro's yes, is it the kit for? there's still a label on the socks in germany. the proffer, it says bought, sold off a men with cotton and the last inland, last time. so brand new items are ending up he had to hire or dr. london, althea is moved back. ah, an industry operating at the expense of the environment. this vast dumping ground is one consequence. according to united nation statistics,

clothing production has doubled since the year 2000. it's an industry that consumes vast quantities of water working conditions, a notoriously bad fires in textile factories, a commonplace ah . one of the worst tragedies occurred in bangladesh in 2013 the rom, plaza, gum and factory collapse, claimed over 1100 lives a wakeup call for the fashion industry. but according to brazilian activist, fernandez seamen, nothing much has changed my concept. there's one applause in the collapse of ron plaza showed how non transparent the nature brands production was inclusive in winter. those mark,

as many did not even know their manufacturing was done. their hill, sal is estoppel po, the single no. fernando seaman doesn't see any shift in the way big brands do business. seeing systemic jamal. that's wow. the current system encourages companies to produce clothes faster and faster will harp you. e kind of exhaust them. they're worn for shorter and shorter amounts of time was either madness. eh, so close, wind up in the garbage sooner. cabin sang the shall gather myself to day and usually end up shipped overseas. where this sorted through by people in need in alto space. you manuel, leave us runs things your ban ds. if so, if at all i get money from people who come here looking for clothes, book either for themselves or to sell it. that's my livelihood yet. gone up that

the yoko bell i'm most to refugees from venezuela. when i e n m o m looking for something to wear him more for can i read it? i lost all my clothes, i fling to chile, daddy. more she, the end of what i got, the venezuelan refugees, a usually penniless. we see lots of them here crossing the desert. in the daytime, the sun beats down and at night it's bitterly cold. here on the border to bolivia, refugees have erected makeshift huts in the last 2 years. hundreds of venezuelans have been arriving here every day. a ditch and armed border patrol gods and no deterrence. the desert border is nearly impossible to control. i feel energy up to

a local hammock. we want to get to the coast. okay. yeah. we've been waiting 7 days to be taken there. you know yet. ok. authorities promised on all 3 of her breath, while motel about on the family most have travelled for months. they sleep here at the william. it's a bit makeshift, it's, i'll come in as a lot the get done with his one room is the other vehicle. at the refugees make do driven by hope of a better life in chile, this is where we cook them or till yang if it isn't, i don't want to know it. i well i hope i can find work. i don't know if it's impossible in venezuela or kiddish that you had nothing to eat, then yolanda began matter for me. but here i can earn money and support my family back hockey. blame what our heart we see many families with children. they've left everything behind, pinning their hopes on

a new home in chile. sometimes locals give them something to eat. more often they're met with hostility. love with old on the get the hockey set up a little only a lot of people just shut the door and our faces. well normally uncle, me, we won't give us anything to eat up on me. not even for the children. no one again, the yell at us and tell us to go home or back up again. oh no, no, no. i remember what not to play further on we see a family by the side of the road. they are clearly exhausted. despite the scorching midday sun, they want to keep going until they reach a key cake, some 200 kilometers away. a long trip through the desert with a 2 year old and a 5 month old baby. unless i read by accident or as he sat gotten out

minim leafy, it's very hot water. oh yeah. it took us 4 days to get here from the border. moran . barney's again, we're not making much progress on but we haven't lost her why year? they can't enter this village. assign warns of pitbulls with william by more loud, i nodded on some locals offered us water that was contaminated with urine as own of our data. why would you do that? i mean of what i made this so disrespectful. are the motoring allowed the mile was? was young sheila isn't giving them the welcome night. hopeful they treated like pariahs. any kiki refugees leaving abject conditions? many have settled me at the clothing dump where the clothes i find they went

ah, when i started, i need to go that the my 2 children and i slept through the desert and let me close it. we had to leave behind the suitcase with our clothes that or we wouldn't have made it we had to, i guess on. but i wonder, i've used up all my savings sick else in florida. it was so cold in the andes of o milano at night, i cut it with the children, got to keep warm, yamagata running. in the 2nd hand marketing until was visio the venezuelan refugees can buy t shirts, jeans and sweaters, or sell used clothes themselves. anything that's halfway decent he sold you. i can't log in with in a way when a rover for poor people especially. and this is a place to buy and sell cheap quotes locally. fema bonia. again,

the t shirts can be as cheapest 10 euro cents. then it would both have bertha with any one without a job is devised their clothes here, no dna till they that our whole fellow goes. these clo, a europe's garbage, like it was a can tilly. what arrives in chile is officially clothing like a wardrobe. they look past the countries in europe, it's garbage and does it, but i me, what do you throw away? is what we, where we're at it. i don't blame. i think unfortunately july in law makes this possible. it, nor they all in it. ah, 2000 kilometers away in south paolo, brazil. this is the heart of the south american textiles industry. the bomb hit chiro district is a hub for clothes stores and textile factories. it's also home to many who leave off the industries left over selling out of annual stock every day. at 5 in the

afternoon, pedro de silva picks up whatever has been thrown away. it's a lot bags and bags and surplus textiles. what about this problem where he thought that it was on the, on the left, this is how much is left over from production every day. it's all surplus, but we can use it never. it's in good condition way and can all be recycled. elaina people say fuck was about one 5th of the fabrics used in production, ends up in the trash paul walker and showed up last robin pedro gets annoyed when fabrics are thrown out along with normal household garbage . then the bags are worthless. for let me play with mister aladdin

wants him. we can't recycle textiles that have been in a bag with the trash. they get dirty leash up and then they're no good when we're garden, what we don't lot of people with that. yeah. the people in the textiles, factories just don't understand why socrates mid thirty's and gina in if i did yorba instead of filling one bag with garbage and fabric scraps, knew that they could use 2 bags and separate the waste of our floor elements. we're good you. it's not hard, i the idea go sat like i'm with boys of to put on it in some pollo 63 tons of fabrics grants are thrown away every day. a growing number of waste collectors have started specializing in clothing waste. laura is one of them for her, it was a way out. the work helped her beat a crack addiction. today she's clean and belongs to a fabric recycling network. residency, how ne, if i got textile factories,

could join forces and transport their fabric waste to the suburbs where lots of small selling shops could really use it, but they refused till he's no at that junior sonata. instead, many former homeless people, like laura collect the fabric scraps and bring them to maria. alina hillson back store in la 11. i am, i am 11 on the back here. the factories left over is piled up to the ceiling. 3 rooms, fully boxes and sacks. ascii, not that and be like you look at all this all. thank you. i like you, nevada, i'm glad you said that you. so this is what the collectors have brought here, eyes fleming comp, and ideally he's always more coming to

a mentor. sure. all the time is all men. maria, alina runs a charity project. she and her volunteer seamstresses, turn the scrap material into rucksacks. yeah, can only them, so it all started a few years ago. so me, when i realized how many backpacks i own, want those ill sync or ca said, i was always buying new ones and throwing them out a me very right day. and you can buy. that's when i had the idea to manufacture backpacks from fabric scrap, say, a fuzzy machine. they produced $250.00 rucksacks a month from fabric that would otherwise end up in the trash. ya, yoko may say, i confess i started paying the garbage collectors money for the scraps me for a while. i explained that a neat, clean fabrics, garcia brock, i yak, they've been bringing me tons of leftovers ever since. won't billing a seem, would you? me? maria manufactures and markets built bags,

hats and backpacks, without any help from the government, yankee, she wants her project to show that sustainability can be profitable. that there is an alternative to disposable fast fashion. oh, i saw islam compton, well, my fare. nowadays, people are always buying clothes, they don't need to ga joseph. i'm off. they just want to make an impression impossible for both. but you're worth as a person has nothing to do with luxury clothing law. you'll fall all the settlement on panama. it's about what's on the inside also of follow the settlement style key early hit present. that sustainability is key for the fabrics bank in another part of south paolo, a new delivery has just arrived leftovers from

a factory. anyone who drops off waste fabric can exchange it for other fabric. first, it gets weighed by founder lou greno. the vice president of the see them, every one can drop off fabric. is it this? if you give us 10 kilo skill, you get 70 loads and returns kills give us applies to rock up. okay? the for, see the dollar the fabric bank keeps 30 percent and uses it to make new products . said it was in such a vase arjun, as mice, initiatives like ours are good factors, but they're only small steps. ankle, they won't make the fashion industry sustainable. urge billy like more needs to change for my car, they keep it. it is a winter class for myself. true sustainability would have to start with cotton. brazil is one of the largest producers worldwide. but most cotton grown here is genetically modified and heavily treated with pesticides

such as up to the so well, i know i said that my money that's just not sustainable. hey, i'm gonna go assume you don't. so the cotton is ground and non cultures would and wouldn't be possible without agro thompson out or did you face suspicious? see, doesn't i'm going to talk soon. activist finn and a seaman says the industry needs to re boot intimacy, but on the 0 help us he says on think we need to in for a circular economy when it comes to close production processes and think about how used clothing can be recycled on an industrial scale, as it was as, as hopeless, its own single market. is it a key for the fashion industry to become more sustainable, get on to for how may need to move away from throw away society thought. se if we go to my sustain coghlan, amada, ah, a concept that hasn't made its way to

a kiki back in chile chia, no one has been able to tackle the garbage problem. several illegal garbage dumps, a lizard and mouth, the attic on that. is it this one is the size of $25.00 soccer fields. at night paypal dump, anything they want to get rid of saving the fees charged by the official garbage dump down the road. for some 25 men, the dump is home and their workplace. they sort anything that can be recycled. oh, what i want are you that he, this is our life. alright, i was gonna what i used to work at another landfill sites will be whatever that will go. we do a good job at the end. we don't bother any. why? no, no, no i didn't, i nothing was i and i think one problem is that the discarded clothes, so mostly synthetic, so they take years to bio degrade incinerating them releases,

chemicals that end up contaminating groundwater. fast fashion is an environmental nightmare. so at any walk on the scene for the game though, i don't really mean we are counting on chiles, ministry of the environment, that they to develop a new strategies. lateral by own receiver then throw them in a li it to make it compulsory into foreign porters to dispose of their clothing waste responsibly. category the lateral barky is that you are slowly the companies off racing in the free trade zone. a realizing it's time for a rethink if only to improve their image that the killer boiler, the fuel, casey etha. what i can say is that the clothing import companies want to help things improve your funding portal. they want to address the negative impact of their business model and the others. what the situation is definitely going to change our privacy or can be put on

a few deny that reform is long overdue. it's up to fashion companies, politicians and consumers to change practices, policies and behavior. otherwise dumps like these will continue to grow with ah, ah, ah, i'm just kinda, i want that tight. and in the end it's a me, you are not allowed to see you anymore. we will send you back. are you familiar with these lions?

what's your story with. ready women, especially and victims of violence in take part and send us your story. we are trying always to understand this new culture. so you are not the visitor, not against you, want to become a citizen in phil migrants, your platform for reliable information ah well stories also dedicated to the war and ukraine this week reconstruction and boot hope for orphans.