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tv   Close up  Deutsche Welle  May 31, 2022 1:30am-2:01am CEST

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do you like it? do you want it? okay, then buckle up, put the pedal to the metal and lets ride read on d w. o. d, up to date, i don't miss our highlights. the d w program online. d, w dot com, highlights east of chillies, pacific coast, a shocking sight, a dumping ground for used clothing, tons and tons. much of it comes from europe.
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just all this back definitely comes from germany watched on this desert. dumping grounds tells an ugly truth about fast fashion. with fema, we're producing more clothing and throwing it away, faster. a lucrative business for some people with it has economic benefits for people who work here and for investors go look in the street. south. america has become a dumping ground with it, but on what you throw away is what when when is bustling? why has the gun and production industry gone so badly? rome and who is paying the real price of fast fashion?
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al search for answers takes us to south america with we're in the attic, come a desert in northern sheila where some of the global fashion industries, discarded clothing ends up. locals are taking us to a dumpsite, past settlements of make shift hunts. we drive past piles of used, tie as then clothing, heaps and heaps of it a vast
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landfill site for textiles in the middle of the desert. the stench of chemical vapors hangs in the air. freddie is a local man. he's outraged by these mountains of discounted clothes you'll know what to do with fame. it is in the market now in the summer, if there are a lot of fires. florida where the textiles are highly flammable, is a virus starts by itself, and everything goes up in flames. a robot eagle in thought of it. but for some families, the landfill is a source of income even even if they're cocaine, lateral people come here to find clothes for themselves or to showed secondhand markets in town. one of the audi on the end of the program, there's no one here at the moment because there is just been a fire more we don't we don't. jennifer jennifer, i'm fine the robot. a graveyard for used and unsold
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fast fashion. manuel olivo is in charge here. and there she picks up surplus textiles in town, and transport them to the dumper. see you have unilateral by the door or by you say bit of it. no, it's terrible. the clothing comes from all over the world. they are, sometimes i go and collect it from local shops, will asada to say, oh no, i go to the warehouse is a local phone. i asked if they have any step they can get me and go see if they do i, rental truck and bring it all here for kennesaw park on 150 isla tri la la robot. any one who wants to take her clothes has to pay her? i'm been yeah, you got no milk where lumber kim be saved? san yoga, jumpy sick when i started doing this a long time ago? when i'm back then it was in may, you're in my home town for the 1st time in premier and more and more people settled
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here that was about 8 or even 12 years ago or short. dorothy, no signal mothers of santa manuela and her husband live in a ramshackle hot surrounded by mountains of used textiles. there's no electricity or running water it. i'm a ranked if i'm electrically at work. at one point, there were 20 families living here with what some of them left and stopped working with help grow dark under. lang. bitter not accustomed, i can be counted recently. tv cruise from around the world have come to report on the clothes dumping ground. manuel olivas tells them about her plight. she leaves off a poultry state pension, the equivalent of just $115.00 euros a month. her husband is sick. there all alone. go moving, can we? we are happy outside town. you know, let leaves know that no one will see what they're up to. so they come here and robert slam on in the urine for my room. they've taken my rabbits. my ducks and
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pigs, even my birds are huddled around the yellow. oh, the couple still have a few animals left, but they leave in constant fear of being robbed again. they are not in compassion. they no, no, no one takes pity on us. oh god, i keep chickens and docks, at least i can and here and there i grow some plants, grey. oh, you didn't want us. yeah, but i yahoo! the money they make from recycling clothes is much needed magazine. is it? and it was it. oh yeah, we left it as they struggle to make ends meet, rejected clothing produced in china and bangladesh and sold in the u. s. and europe continues to pile up around them. but the sooner the town of alto species is covered in a thin film of sand. 40 years ago,
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there was nothing but desert here, the establishment of a free trade zone, kickstart at the local economy and created new problems. it got ortega from the local environment office, explains that the government, the law here in alto hospice. here we are dealing with a most acute environmental problems in the whole region. i get them when i see it in the desert surrounding the town. every one does whatever they want to learn of was elegant. i guess he knows exactly who to blame for the landfill sites in one of the used clothing business is highly lucrative for importers of secondhand textiles. and a key case at free trade zone and e, you know, sort of at the moment there are 53 of these companies and they're the robot, get an robot. and their business model is very profitable. and going on wally, but only for them, but also it's detrimental to the wider community. they don't have a one hour we had
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t k. the provincial capital is sandwiched between the desert and the pacific. this used to be a depressed region. then the free trade zone, so free was created and a container port was built. companies operating here enjoy various tax exemptions. dario blanco, head of the key k free trade zone uses association coals the suffering a roaring success in economic terms at least had put up a fella from a franca m come one of the free trade. joan was a political project. it meant that a lot of people from elsewhere settled here, not in the arid desert region, when people who are in a future frequently created economic advantages for people who move to educate for work as well as for in residential, i'm been it and life left on importers of discarded and unsold
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clothes, also benefit from tax exemptions. we come across american brands as well as governments that clearly from germany, dealers distinguish between 3 categories. yeah, and for the fit i am oh, the worst category is clothes with stains or homes in grow that go white. we discard ha. and it was like living prevention and estimated 40 percent of what's imported ends up thrown out when they come on. it varies from container to container in. sometimes the contents are in good condition. with others, we have to throw out a lot of substandard items. sheila is latin, america's main importer of discarded clothing, importing tens of thousands of tons per year. some of it comes from germany, we see one store that advertises clothes from hamburg
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neighboring countries restrict or forbid the import of used clothes. not sheila, which has become an international dumping ground. back at the landfill, freddie and i are figuring out where the clothes come from. we find a pair of trousers from the dominican republic. yes, we got our money. got an ottoman. well, me, and then i find text. aust: grandpa from germany. yeah. pot the purpose management when i'm president, did a tele rejected clothing dumped in the at a comma? does it get repeated signed on by dot d? obviously stuff from germany is ending up. he had arch front. oh, we also find video cuz since a german phone book and a pair of socks with a price tag in euros, ah, i pam fewer women should you, is. i know it to kit from this. still
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a label on the socks in german. she asked the proffer, it says broadsoft men with cotton and the last inland, alaska. so brand new items are ending up here to koya or dr. london all here does move back. ah, an industry operating at the expense of the environment. this vast dumping ground is one consequence. according to united nation statistics, clothing production has doubled since the year 2000 it's an industry that consumes vast quantities of water working conditions, notoriously bad. fires in textile factories, a commonplace ah, one of the worst tragedies occurred in bangladesh in 2013 the ron plaza. garmen
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factory collapse claimed over 1100 lives a wakeup call for the fashion industry. but according to brazilian activist fair manda seaman, nothing much has changed. my concept. there's one up on the collapse of ron plaza showed how non transparent the major brands production was inclusive in one of those mark, as many did not even know their manufacturing was done. their hill salus is probably the single no. fernandez seamen doesn't see any shift in the way big brands do business seeing systemic jamal. that's wow. the current system encourages companies to produce close, faster and faster will harp you. e kind of exhaust them. well, they're warned for shorter and shorter amounts of time was either madness. eh,
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so close, wind up in the garbage sooner. carbon sang the, shall gathers mice up to date and usually end up shipped overseas. where this sorted through by people in need in alto space, you manuel olivas runs things your ban ds. if so, if at all i get money from people who come here looking for clothes, book either for themselves or to sell it. that's my livelihood yet. gone. if up that the yoko bell i'm most to refugees from venezuela. when i e n m o m looking for something to wear him or forget it, i lost all my clothes, i fling to chile, daddy. more she learned of what i got, the venezuelan refugees, a usually penniless. we see lots of them here crossing the desert. in the daytime,
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the sun beats down, and at night it's bitterly cold. here on the border to bolivia, refugees have erected makeshift huts in the last 2 years. hundreds of venezuelans have been arriving here every day. a ditch and armed border patrol gods and no deterrence. the desert border is nearly impossible to control the one with the official knocking hammock we want to get to the coast. okay. yeah. we've been waiting 7 days to be taken there. you know the, i don't the authorities promised arnold that he'll have with grandma. but on the family most have travelled for months. they sleep here that william, it's a makeshift val come in. as i love the given with his one room where he is the other, the the refugees make
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do driven by hope of a better life in chile. and well, this is where we cook them or tell you anything. it is. i don't want to know that i, well, i hope i can find work. so i don't know, it's impossible in venezuela or kit is that you have nothing to eat. then yolanda begin. mother 4000000, but here i can earn money and support my family back home. i'll keep blame on our house. we see many families with children. they've left everything behind, pinning their hopes on a new home in chile. sometimes locals give them something to eat. more often they're met with hostility without only get back, he said, get off a little only a lot of people just shut the door in our faces. well normally uncle, me, they won't give us anything to eat up on me. not even for the children. no one, i'm a yell at us. tell us to go home, but i could get no, no, no,
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no. i remember not to play further on we see a family by the side of the road. they are clearly exhausted. despite the scorching midday sun, they want to keep going until they reach a key cake, some 200 kilometers away. a long trip through the desert with a 2 year old and a 5 month old baby bug. unless i grab i got an hour minimum. we fish. it's very hot water. oh yeah. it took us 4 days to get here from the border. mironda are nice. again, we're not making much progress went along but we haven't lost time. why year they can't enter this village. assign warns of pitbulls with william router. i nodded out on some locals,
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offered us water that was contaminated with urine as all of our data. why would you do that? um, you know what? i mean? so disrespectful. the molding allowed the ma was yeah. g la isn't giving them the welcome night. hopeful they're treated like pariahs. any kiki refugees leaving abject conditions? many have settled near the clothing dump where the clothes they find they way. ah my darling, this is got that done. my 2 children and i slept through the desert and let me close if we had to leave behind the suitcase with our clothes that or we wouldn't have made it we had to, i guess on. but i wonder, i've used up all my savings in florida. it was so cold in the andes up oh, mila door at night, i cut it with the children, got to keep warm. yama gardening. in the 2nd hand marketing
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until was visio the venezuelan refugees can buy t shirts, jeans, and switches, or sell used clothes themselves. anything that's halfway decent he sold you. i can't log in with in a way when a legal silva for poor people especially. and this is a place to buy and sell cheap clothes locally. fema, by any of again, the t shirts can be as cheapest 10 euro cents. didn't we both have bertha directed any one without a job. he's a vice, they're close here. you know, dna till they there are whole fellow oak of these clo, a europe's garbage. like it was a can tilly what arrives in chile is officially clothing is like a wardrobe a lot, but the countries in europe it garbage. sure it does it, but i me what you throw away is what we westwood it does it. i don't blame. i think
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unfortunately july and law makes those possible it nor they all in. busy 2000 kilometers away in south paolo brazil. this is the heart of the south american textiles industry. the bomb had chiro district is a hub for clothes stores and textile factories. it's also home to many who leave off the industries leftovers, elliana bangles, fossil every day at 5 in the afternoon, pedro de silva picks up whatever has been thrown away. it's a lot bags and bags and surplus textiles. what about the problem where he thought that it was on the, on the left, this is how much is left over from production every day. it's all surplus, but we can use it never. it's in good condition way and can all be recycled. elaina,
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it will say for the truck was about one 5th of the fabrics used in production, ends up in the trash paul walker shop where your clock pedro gets annoyed when fabrics are thrown out along with normal household garbage . then the bags are worthless for the recall. you worked with. the case with mr. loudon wants him. we can't recycle tank styles that have been in a bag with the trash. they get dirty leisure. and then they're no good when they're gotten bought with don't lot of people with that. yeah. the people in the textiles, factories just don't understand. suck today. miss ashley, this is gina in a padded yorba, instead of filling one bag with garbage and fabric scraps. me that they could use 2 bags and separate the waist. have a saw alamita gun. your. it's not hard. i the idea go sat like i'm lydia when we go
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to colorado. in south palo 63 tons of fabrics grants are thrown away every day. a growing number of waste collectors had started specializing in clothing waste. laura is one of them for her, it was a way out. the work helped her beat a crack addiction. today she's clean and belongs to a fabric recycling network. residency, help me if i got textile factories, could join forces and transport their fabric waste to the suburbs where lots of small selling shops could really use it, but they refused to. he's no at that jigger sonata instead many former homeless people, like laura collect the fabric scraps and bring them to maria alina hillson back store in la hilalem. i am, i am all over the home. back here,
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the factories left over is a piled up to the ceiling. 3 rooms, fully boxes and sacks. ascii thought and be like, you look at all this, don't the kiosk i lecoq, nevada, our bodies. becky: so this is what the collectors have brought here. eyes brimming, compet ideally, she's always more coming. oh, i'll mentor. sure. and all the time it is all meant maria, alina runs a charity project. she and her volunteer seamstresses, turn the scrap material into rock sex, yackino me now. so it all started a few years ago. so me, when i realized how many backpacks i own, one for sale sync or see said i was always buying new ones and throwing them out a me very right bay and you can buy. yeah, that's when i had the idea to manufacture backpacks from fabric scrap, say
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a fuzzy machine. they produced $250.00 rucksacks a month from fabric that would otherwise end up in the trash. ya, yoko may say acrobat. i started paying the garbage collectors money for the scraps me. well, violet, i explained that a neat, clean fabrics, garcia, but got yak, they've been bringing me tons of leftovers ever since. won't billing a seem, would you? me? maria manufactures and markets built bags and backpacks without any help from the government, yankee, she wants her project to show that sustainability can be profitable. that there is an alternative to disposable fast fashion especially hasn't gone from my fair. nowadays, people are always buying clothes. they don't need to ga joseph,
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i'm off. they just want to make an impression impossible, but i don't. but you're worth as a person has nothing to do with luxury clothing. hello. you've all, all the settlement on a pan. it's about what's on the inside. all set, we'll follow the settlement, the standard key early head pleasant. sustainability is key for the fabrics bank in another part of south paolo. a new delivery has just arrived. leftovers from a factory. any one who drops off waste fabric can exchange it for other fabric. first, it gets weighed by founder lou greno. if i said as also for see them, every one can drop our fabric and key to this. if you give us 10 kilos, kill you get 7 kilos in return cues. he was supposed to rock up a clock out the for see the dollars the fabric bank keeps 30 percent and uses it to
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make new products. said it was an image such as our gym as mice, initiatives, like ours are good factors, but they're only small steps. ankle, they won't make the fashion industry sustainable. urge billy like more needs to change. for my car, they keep it. it is a g winter class for myself. true sustainability would have to start with cotton. brazil is one of the largest producers worldwide. but most cotton grown here is genetically modified and heavily treated with pesticides such as a part of the someone i know i faith that my money that's just not sustainable. hey, i'm gonna goss you eat don't. so the cotton is grown and non cultures would and wouldn't be possible without agro thompson. how tall did you face suspicious? c doesn't. i would have talks. activist fin and a seaman says the industry need to re boot intimacy, but on the 0 help us. cuz i don't think we need to in, for
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a circular economy when it comes to close production processes. and think about how used clothing can be recycled on an industrial scale. has it been called as, as, as hopeless eat on single market? is it a key for the fashion industry to become more sustainable, get on to for how may need to move away from throw away society se if we go to my sustain coghlan, amada, ah, a concept that hasn't made its way to a kiki back in chile, chia, no one has been able to tackle the garbage problem. several illegal garbage dumps, a lizard and mount the attic on the days it. this one is the size of 25 soccer fields. at night paypal dump, anything they want to get rid of saving the fees charged by the official garbage dump down the road. for some 25 men,
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the dump is home and they work place. they sort anything that can be recycled. oh, i don't. what are you that he this is our life. alright, i was gonna what i used to work at another landfill, citing because i don't. i will go, we do a good job at the end. we don't bother any. why? no, no, no they didn't. i nothing was i and i think one problem is that the discarded clothes are mostly synthetic, so they take years to bio degrade incinerating them releases, chemicals that end up contaminating ground water. fast fashion is an environmental nightmare. so that any more corner, samantha gala, though i don't really mean we are counting on chillies, ministry of the environment, to develop a new strategy, a lateral bar, go on receiver, then throw the alley to make it compulsory into foreign porters to dispose of their clothing waste responsibly cargo, the lateral barky is the few slowly the
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companies operating in the free trade zone are realizing it's time for a rethink if only to improve their image. pick it up, boil the fuel casey it i would, i can say is that the clothing import companies want to help things improve your course. they want to address the negative impact of their business model. yeah. and the others, what the situation is definitely going to change my privacy. i will probably put a few deny that reform is long overdue. it's up to fashion companies, politicians and consumers to change practices, policies and behavior. otherwise, dumps like these will continue to grow with
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