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tv   Close up  Deutsche Welle  May 31, 2022 11:15am-11:46am CEST

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ah, and that's it from me and the news team for now my clock will have an update for you at the top. all fiala don't go away, they'll close up, is next looks a looking at frost fashion and masses of unsolved clothes piling up in at china chilean deserts. and don't forget, you can always get all your news on a d, w dot com as well. i'm got office. thanks vote. and what interest the global economy our portfolio d w business. beyond. here, the closer look at the project, our mission. to analyze the fight for market dominance. get
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a step ahead with d. w. business beyond east of chiles, pacific coast. a shocking sight, a dumping ground for used clothing, tons and tons. much of it comes from europe. this bank definitely comes from germany. glitched on this desert dumping grounds tells an ugly truth about fast fashion. with the not we're producing more clothing and throwing it away, faster, a lucrative business for some people who think when it has economic benefits for
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people who work here and for investors go looking bernita south america has become a dumping ground. does it? but what you throw away is what we went by swift. why has the gun and production industry gone so badly? rome and who is paying the real price of fast fashion? al search barone says, takes us to south america. with we are in the attic, come a desert in northern sheila where some of the global fashion industries,
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discarded clothing ends up. locals are taking us to a dump site. past settlements of make shift hunts we drive past piles of used, tie as then clothing, heaps and heaps of it. a vast landfill site for textiles in the middle of the desert. the stench of chemical vapors hangs in the air. freddie is a local man, he's outraged by these mountains of discarded clothes. you know, with the, with fer, it is the more now in the summer if there are a lot of fires, florida where the textiles are highly flammable, is a virus starts by itself and everything goes up in flames. a robot equal means out
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of it. but for some families, the landfill is a source of income you and ian if vehicle can laurel people come here to find clothes in for themselves or to showed secondhand markets in town would have been all another person. there's no one here at the moment because there is just been a fire more we don't. we don't jennifer jennifer entering the robot a graveyard for used and unsold fast fashion. manuel olivo is in charge here, though. she picks up surplus textiles in town, and transport them to the dumpster. so you have unilateral by the door or by you say bit of it. no, it's not a robot. the clothing comes from all over the world. they are, sometimes i go and collect it from local shops, will asada to say, oh no, i go to the warehouse is a local phone. i ask if they have any step they can get me and go see if they do i
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rent a truck and bring it all here for you. no, sir, park on 150. isla tri, la la robot. any one who wants to take her clothes has to pay her? i'm been yeah. you know me up what level kim, this is daniel giving them physical. i started doing this a long time ago, and then back then it was in a year in my home town for the 1st time in premier and more and more people settled here. that was about 8 or even 12 years ago, or short. dorothy, no signal mothers of santa manuela and her husband live in a ramshackle hot surrounded by mountains of use textiles. there's no electricity or running water it. i'm a ranked if i'm electrically at work. at one point there were 20 families living here. if, if what some of them left and stopped working with help grow dark on the land,
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but not a big i could have been recently. tv cruise from around the world had come to report on the clothes dumping ground. manuel olivas tells them about her plight. she leads off a poultry state pension, the equivalent of just $115.00 euros a month. her husband is sick there, all alone. the move in can be, we are happy outside town. you know, law leaves know that no one will see what they're up to. so they come here and robin flannel harrington. i'm in the urine for my. they've taken my rabbits. my ducks and pigs even my bird saw huddled around for your mother. bravo. oh, the couple still have a few animals left, but they leave in constant fear of being roped again. they are not in compassion. they no, no, no one takes pity on us. oh god, i keep chickens and docks, at least i can. and here and vera, grow some plants, grey. oh, you didn't want us. yeah, but i yahoo! are you? the money they make from recycling clothes is much needed regularly. a video as it
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was it? yeah. oh yeah, we left it as they struggle to make ends meet, rejected clothing produced in china and bangladesh and sold in the u. s. and europe continues to pile up around them from the town of alto, species is covered in a thin film of sand. 40 years ago, it was nothing but desert here, the establishment of a free trade zone, kickstart at the local economy, and created new problems with it go. ortega from the local environment office, explains that the amended law here in alto hospice. johan, we are dealing with a most acute environmental problems in the whole region. i get them when i see at the, in the desert surrounding the town, every one does whatever they want to know by silicon, i get he knows exactly who to blame for the landfill. sites
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in one of the used clothing business is highly lucrative for importers of secondhand textiles and a key case, free trade zone and ego. so if the memo there are $53.00 of these companies and they're, they're all by the end robot. and their business model is very profitable and going on while any let only for them, but also it's detrimental to the wider community that the one over one hour we had to eat. kiki, the provincial capital is sandwiched between the desert and the pacific. this used to be a depressed region, then the free trade zone. so freak was created and a container port was built. companies operating here enjoy various tax exemptions. dario blanco, head of the key k free trade zone uses association kohls the so free a roaring success in economic terms, at least had put a fellow on a franca,
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a come one of the free trade. joan was a political project, it meant that a lot of people from elsewhere settled here, not in the arid desert region when people, even a teacher frequently created economic advantages for people who move t k for work, as well as for investors will. i'm damage and life left on import isn't discarded, and unsold clothes also benefit from tax exemptions. we come across american brands as well as governments that are clearly from germany. was distinguished between 3 categories. yeah, and for the fit i am oh, the worst category is clothes with stains. are home in the road back long white we does garden, i and if it goes to like living prevention and estimated 40 percent of what's imported ends up thrown out. if they go with it varies from container to container
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in it. well, sometimes the contents are in good condition. with others, we have to throw out a lot of substandard items. sheila is latin, america's main importer of discarded clothing, importing tens of thousands of tons per year. some of it comes from germany. we see one stool that advertises clothes from hamburg neighboring countries restrict till forbid the import of used clothes. not sheila, which has become an international dumping ground back at the landfill, freddie and i are figuring out where the clothes come from. we find a pair of trousers from the dominican republic years ago. many gone. uh huh. and then i fine text aust: grandpa from germany yet brought the purpose management. when i'm president, did
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a tele rejected clothing dumped in the at a comma? does it get repeated sent out by dot d? obviously stuff from germany is ending up. he had arch front. oh, we also find video cassettes, a german phone book, and a pair of socks with a price tag in euro's ah, i pam few women shirts this year. is i'm a ticket from this still a label on the socks in germany. the others proffer, it says broadsoft men with cotton and the last didn't last time. so brand new items are ending up here to oil or dr. london. all he often moved back, ah, an industry operating at the expense of the environment. this vast dumping ground is one consequence. according to united nation statistics,
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clothing production has doubled since the year 2000. it's an industry that consumes vast quantities of water working conditions and notoriously bad fires in textile factories, a commonplace ah, one of the worst tragedies occurred in bangladesh in 2013 the ron and plaza gum and factory collapse claimed over 1100 lives a wakeup call for the fashion industry. but according to brazilian activist, fernandez seamen, nothing much has changed. my concept, there's one part of the collapse of ron plaza showed how non transparent but nature brands production was inclusive. im when does mark as many did not even know their manufacturing was done their hills. how is this tablo the single no. fernando
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seaman doesn't see any shift in the way big brands do business. seeing systemic jamal. that's wow. the current system encourages companies to produce close faster and faster. well, happy though. e kind of raises them. they're warned for shorter and shorter amount of time was either man was eh, so close, wind up in the garbage sooner. common saying this or gathers myself debate and usually end up shipped overseas, where this sorted through by people in need in alto, us vis. you manuel, it will leave us, runs things your ban ds. if so, if at all i get money from people who come here looking for clothes, well either for themselves or to sell it, that's my livelihood yet. goodness about that good yoko bell. i'm most to refugees
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from venezuela. when i e. n. m o. from looking for something to wear, hamil forget to read it. i lost all my clothes, are clean to chilly, daddy more she and what i got the venezuelan refugees, a usually penniless. we see lots of them here. crossing the desert. in the daytime, the sun beats down, and at night it's bitterly cold. here on the border to bolivia, refugees have erected makeshift huts in the last 2 years. hundreds of venezuelans have been arriving here every day. a ditch and armed border patrol gods and no deterrence. the desert border is nearly impossible to control the one with the official chemical. we want to get to the coast. okay.
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up with the waiting 7 days to be taken there. you know, the, i don't, the authorities promised on what the deal have with while montela parked on the family most have travelled for months. they sleep here, the william, it's a bit makeshift to sal. come in as a lot the get done with his one room where he is the other the refugees make do driven by hope of a better life in chile this is where we cook them. water yang. it isn't. i don't want to know that i well, i hope i can find words. i don't know, it's impossible in venezuela or kiddos that you have nothing to eat, then yolanda began matter for me then. but here i can earn money and support my family back hockey plan, what i, what we see many families with children, they've left everything behind, pinning their hopes on
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a new home in chile. sometimes locals give them something to eat more often. they're met with hostility over don't look at the hockey set up a little only a lot of people just shut the door and our faces. well, normally uncle, me, they won't give us anything to eat or mean not even for the children. no yell at us and tell us to go home, but i got people going on. no, no, no, i don't want not to play further on. we see a family by the side of the road. they are clearly exhausted. despite the scorching midday sun, they want to keep going until they reach a key cake, some 200 kilometers away. a long trip through the desert with a 2 year old and a 5 month old baby. unless i start got out of
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minim leafy. it's very hot weather. oh yeah. it took us 4 days to get here from the border. miranda need to get. we're not making much progress. went along, but we haven't last time i year they can't into this village. assign warns of pitbulls with william by more louder. i nodded out on some locals, offered us water that was contaminated with urine as own of our data. why would you do that? let me know, but i made this so disrespectful. are the modeling allowed the mile was was yeah, sheila isn't giving them the welcome. they'd hopeful they treated like parias any kiki refugees leaving abject conditions. many have settled near the clothing dump where the clothes they find they when. ringback
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when i started, and this is got my 2 children and i slept through the desert and let me course if we had to leave behind the suitcase with our clothes that or we wouldn't have made it we had to, i guess on. but i wonder, i've used up all my savings kelsey in florida. it was so cold in the andes of our mill, i don't at night, i cut it with the children, want to keep warm. yama gardening. in the 2nd hand marketing until was visio, the venezuelan refugees can buy t shirts, jeans, and switches, or sell used clothes themselves. anything that's halfway decent he sold gil, i can't log in with in a way when a legal shall law for poor people, especially. and this is a place to buy and sell cheap clothes locally. fema bonia. i get a t shirts convinced cheapest 10 euro cents. didn't we both have bertha directed?
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anyone without a job? if i, if they're close here, you know, dna till they, there are whole fellow cuz these clothes, a europe's garbage lawyer was a continually what arrives in chile is officially clothing. it's like a wardrobe. it a lot, but the countries in europe it's garbage. sure. and does it, but i me what you throw away is what we went through it. i opened my leg unfortunately, july and law makes those possible it, nor they all in it. ah, 2000 kilometers away in south palo brazil. this is the heart of the south american textiles industry. the bomb had chiro district is a hub for clothes stores and textile factories. it's also home to many who leave off the industries left over so that available thought every day at 5 in the
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afternoon. pedro de silva picks up whatever has been thrown away. it's a lot bags and bags and surplus textiles. i saw that i had thought that it was on the left. this is how much is left over from production every day. it's all surplus, but we can use it never. it's in good condition and can all be recycling that it was safe, wasn't like, was it about one 5th of the fabrics used in production, ends up in the trash talk. you finish up your clock. pedro gets annoyed when fabrics are thrown out along with normal household garbage, then the bags are worthless as we have for them to live with mister aladdin godson. we can't recycle textiles that have been in
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a bag with the trash. they get dirty leisure. and then they're no good when they're gotten bought with don't lot of people with that. yeah. the people in the textiles, factories just don't understand local stock methods with gina emitted yorba instead of filling one bag with garbage and fabric scraps need, and they could use 2 bags and separate the waves of our saw alamita gun your. it's not hard. i that he, i go, sat like only the little boys of to got out in south palo, 63 tons of fabrics grants are thrown away every day. a growing number of waste collectors had started specializing in clothing waste. laura is one of them for her . it was a way out, the work helped her beat a crack addiction. today she's clean and belongs to a fabric recycling network. residency, help me if i go textile factories,
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could join forces and transport their fabric waste to the suburbs where lots of small selling shops could really use it, but they refused till he's no at that jigger sonata. instead, many former homeless people like laura collect the fabric scraps and bring them to maria alina hillson. beck, storine law, hilalem. i am, i am all over now. the whole back here, the factories, left overs piled up to the ceiling. 3 rooms full in boxes and sacks. ascii. not that and be like you look at all the that the kia i like you live at our bodies. becky: so this is what the collectors have brought here. eyes brimming, compet ideally he thought is more coming. oh, oh mentor, sure. and all the time it is all meant maria, alina runs
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a charity project. she and her volunteer seamstresses, turn the scrap material into rucksacks. yeah, can only don't. so it all started a few years ago. so me, when i realized how many backpacks i own, won't the sale sink was a said i was always buying new ones and throwing them out a me very right day. and you, grandma, that's when i had the idea to manufacture backpacks from fabric scrap, say, a fuzzy machine. they produced $250.00 rucksacks a month from fabric that would otherwise end up in the trash. ya, yoko miss a apple ves, i started paying the garbage collectors money for the scraps me. but a while ago i explained that a neat, clean fabrics, garcia brock, i yak, they've been bringing me tons of leftovers ever since. won't billing a seem, would you? me maria,
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manufactures and markets built bags and backpacks without any help from the government. jackie, she wants her project to show that sustainability can be profitable, that there is an alternative to disposable fast fashion. i specialize in a compromise will not bear. nowadays, people are always buying clothes. they don't need to ga joseph. i'm off. they just want to make an impression possible, but i don't but you're worth as a person has nothing to do with luxury clothing. hello. you've all all to settle on a little panel up. it's about what's on the inside. also. we'll follow the settlement style key early head present. sustainability is key for the fabrics bank in another part of south paolo. a new delivery has just arrived. leftovers from a factory. any one who drops off waste fabric can exchange it for other
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fabric. first, it gets weighed by founder lou greno. if i said as will suffice, see them? every one can drop our fabric and key to this. if you give us 10 kilos kill you, get 2nd kilo's in return gives give us a pies tropical. kel, the fussy, the dollars. the fabric bank keeps 30 percent and uses it to make new products. said of any such of us are to maximize initiatives like ours are good factors, but they're only small steps. ankle, they won't make the fashion industry sustainable. urge billy light more needs to change. for my car, they keep it, it is a g. we've that last one. was a true sustainability would have to start with cotton. brazil is one of the largest produces worldwide. but most cotton grown here is genetically modified and heavily treated with pesticides such as
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a part of the someone i know i faith that my money that's just not sustainable. hey, i'm gonna gloss you eat oh. so the cotton has grown and nana cultures would and wouldn't be possible without agro thompson out or did you face suspicious c doesn't? i would have talks. activist fin and a seaman says the industry needs to re boot. is adam was he put on the 0 help us? he says on think we need to aim for circular economy when it comes to close production processes. and think about how used clothing can be recycled on an industrial scale as it can for those as, as hopeless. eat on singer like a digital g for the fashion industry to become more sustainable, get on to for how may need to move away from a throw away society r s. if we go to my sustain coghlan amada, ah, a concept that hasn't made its way to a kiki back in chile chia,
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no one has been able to tackle the garbage problem. several illegal garbage dumps deleted and mount the african. that is it. this one is the size of 25 soccer fields at night, people dump anything they want to get rid of saving the fees charged by the official garbage dump down the road. for some 25 men, the dump is home and their work place. they sort anything that can be recycled. oh, i don't want are you that he this is our life. alright. i was in a room. i used to work at another landfill sites. it was a little devil gabble. we do a good job us and we don't bother any. why? no, no, no. was the leak in the 9. nothing was i only one problem is that the discarded clothes are mostly synthetic. so they take years to bio degrade,
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incinerating them, releases, chemicals that end up contaminating groundwater. fast fashion is an environmental night man. so any walk on the cement legally though? i don't really mean we are counting on chillies, ministry of the environment, to develop a new strategy, a lateral bar on the ceo, then throw them alley it to make it compulsory and foreign porters to dispose of their clothing. waste responsibly. category the lateral barky. if the, if you are slowly the companies off racing in the free trade zone, a realizing it's time for a rethink if only to improve their image. that particular form of the field, casey etha. what i can say is that the clothing import companies want to help things improve your funding portal. they want to address the negative impact of their business model. yeah. and they've got the others, what the situation is definitely going to change charlie privacy. i will come here for a few deny that reform is long overdue. it's
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up to fashion companies, politicians and consumers to change practices, policies and behavior. otherwise, dumps like these will continue to grow with sex making raring to read. if there is any erotic events between them, you'd have to find it between the lines t w literature. 100 german must reads to meet it out in
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the south bay mother was going to spend the rest of her life behind bars for murdering her 3 dot. call me back. i was part of psychosis is an awful illness. mothers nightmare starts june 4th on d w. with world stories also dedicated to the war, new credit this week reconstruction and booter hope for orphans but.

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