tv Close up Deutsche Welle May 31, 2022 2:30pm-3:01pm CEST
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with the muffler producing more clothing and throwing it away, faster, a lucrative business for some people with it has economic benefits for people who work here and for investors go looking. miss renita south america has become a dumping ground with it. but on what you throw away is want wing wise by sorta why has the gum and production industry gone so badly? rome and who is paying the real price of fast fashion?
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al search for answers takes us to south america with but we're in the attic. come a desert in northern sheila, west, some of the global fashion industries, discarded clothing ends up. locals are taking us to a dumpsite, past settlements of make shift we drive past piles of used. tie is then clothing heaps and heaps of it. a vast landfill site for textiles in the middle of the desert. the stench of chemical vapors hangs in the air. freddie is a local man,
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he's outraged by these mountains of discounted clothes. you'll know what to do with fer it is of the mark now in the summer, if there are a lot of fires, florida where the textiles are highly flammable, is a virus starts by itself and everything goes up in flames. a robot equal means out of it. but for some families, the landfill is a source of income. you an ear, griff vehicle can little people come here to find clothes for themselves or to show it secondhand markets in town would have been holding it up with them. there's no one here at the moment because there is just been a fire more you know john jennifer, jennifer, i'm fine the robot a graveyard for used and unsold fast fashion. manuel olivo is in charge
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here, though. she picks up surplus, textiles in town, and transport them to the dumb. so she'll give unilateral by the dollar by you say better. no, it's not a robot. the clothing comes from all over the world. they are, sometimes i go and collect it from local shops. alexa, the so or no, but i go to the warehouses a local phone. i asked if they have any steps they can give me. and so see if they do i rent a truck and bring it all here. for kennesaw park on my for lady isla bry, la la robot. any one who wants to take her clothes has to pay her? i'm benny. are you right now? milk where level kim be civil? senior young pacific. when i started doing this a long time ago, i couldn't than that, then it was in may your, in my home town for the 1st time in premier and more and more people settled here that was about 8 or even 12 years ago or short. dorothy, no,
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samuel mothers of santa manuela and her husband leave in a ramshackle hot surrounded by mountains of use textiles. there's no electricity, all running water. it, i'm all right, if i'm electrically at work, at one point there were 20 families living here. if, if what some of them left and stopped working with help grow dark on the land but not across through, i could have been recently tv cruise from around the world have come to report on the clothes dumping ground. manuel olivas tells them about her plight. she leaves off a poultry state pension, the equivalent of just $115.00 euros a month. her husband is sick there, all alone. the moving can be, we are happy outside town. you know, law leaves know that no one will see what they're up to. so they come here and robin flannel harrington. i'm in the urine for my room. they've taken my rabbits. my ducks and pigs even my bird saw huddled around for your mother, brother. oh, the couple still have a few animals left,
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but they leave in constant fear of being roped again. they are not in compassion. they no, no, no one takes pity on us. oh god, i keep chickens and docks, at least i can. and here and vera, grow some plants, grey. oh, you didn't want us. yeah, but i yahoo! the money they make from recycling clothes is much needed regularly of it. and that was it. yeah. oh yeah, we left it as they struggle to make ends meet, rejected clothing produced in china and bangladesh and sold in the u. s. and europe continues to pile up around them from the town of alto, species is covered in a thin film of sand. 40 years ago, it was nothing but desert here, the establishment of a free trade zone kick started the local economy and created new problems with it
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go. ortega from the local environment office explains that the amended law here in alto hospice. here we are dealing with a most acute environmental problems in the whole region. i get them when i see at the, in the desert surrounding the town, every one does whatever they want to know by silicon. i get a he knows exactly who to blame for the landfill sites in one of the used clothing business is highly lucrative for importers of secondhand textiles and a key case free trade zone and ian moscato. at the moment, there are 53 of these companies under the robber, get an robot, and our business model is very profitable going on while any let only for them, but also it's detrimental to the wider community. they don't have a one hour we had to ye, kiki. the provincial capital is sandwiched between the desert and the pacific.
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this used to be a depressed region, then the free trade zone. so freak was created and a container port was built. companies operating here enjoy various tax exemptions. dario blanco, head of the key k free trade zone uses association kohls the so free a roaring success in economic terms, at least to put a fellow on a franca, a come, one of the free trade jone was a political project. it meant that a lot of people from elsewhere settled here, not in the arid desert region when people, even a teacher frequently created economic advantages for people who move t k for work. as well as for investors from vintage and life liaison in thought is of discarded and unsold clothes, also benefit from tax exemptions. we come across american brands as well as governments that are clearly from germany. dallas distinguished between 3
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categories. yeah, and for the fit i am oh, the worst category is clothes with stains. are home in, grow back on own white. we discard them. i and it was like, let me prevention and estimated 40 percent of what's imported ends up thrown out when they come with it varies from container to container in a well, sometimes the contents are in good condition with others. we have to throw out a lot of sub standard items. sheila is latin, america's main importer of discarded clothing, importing tens of thousands of tons per year. some of it comes from germany. we see one stool that advertises clothes from hamburg. neighboring countries restrict toll forbid the import of used clothes. not sheila,
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which has become an international dumping ground back at the landfill, freddie and i are figuring out where the clothes come from. we find a pair of trousers from the dominican republic. you see that on many gonna kill me and then i find text. aust: grandpa from germany. you pop the papers management when i'm president, did a tele rejected clothing dumped in the at a comma. does it get repeated signed out by dot d o. obviously stuff from germany is ending up. he had arch front. oh, we also find video cassettes, a german phone book, and a pair of socks with a price tag in euro's i. pam few women shuts this year. is i'm a ticket for this. still a label on the socks in german, yesterday proffer. it says good souls off a men with cotton than the last inland last time. so brand new items are ending up
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. he had to hire for dr. london. all he often moved back. aah! and industry operating at the expense of the environment. this vast dumping ground is one consequence. according to united nation statistics, clothing production has doubled since the year 2000. it's an industry that consumes vast quantities of water working conditions and notoriously bad fires in textile factories, a commonplace ah, one of the worst tragedies occurred in bangladesh in 2013 the rom, plaza, gum and factory collapse claimed over 1100 lives
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a wakeup call for the fashion industry, but according to brazilian activist, fernandez seamen, nothing much has changed my concept. there's one applause in the collapse of ron plaza showed how non transparent but major brands production was inclusive in window. does mark as many did not even know their manufacturing was done, their hill sal is established though the single no. fernanda seaman doesn't see any shift in the way big brands do business. seeing systemic jamal. that's wow. the current system encourages companies to produce close faster and faster. well, happy though. he had always asked them, well, they're worn for shorter and shorter amounts of time was either madness. eh, so close, wind up in the garbage sooner. common saying those are gathered myself to day and usually end up shipped overseas,
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where they're sorted through by people in need in alto space. you manuel it will leave us, runs things your ban ds. if so, if at all i get money from people who come here looking for clothes, look either for themselves or to sell it. that's my livelihood yet. gone. if up that good yoko bell i'm most to refugees from venezuela. when i e, n. m o, from looking for something to wear him more for can i read it? i lost all my clothes, i fling to chile, yet it was shihean of what i got the venezuelan refugees, a usually penniless. we see lots of them here. crossing the desert in the daytime, the sun beats down, and at night it's bitterly cold. here on the border to bolivia,
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refugees have erected makeshift huts in the last 2 years. hundreds of venezuelans have been arriving here every day. a ditch and armed border patrol gods and no deterrence, the desert border is nearly impossible to control the one with the official knocking hammock we want to get to the coast. okay. yeah. we've been waiting 7 days to be taken there. you know, the, i don't, the authorities promised on that that he'll have with why motel apart on the family most have traveled for months. they sleep here at the william. it's a bit makeshift to sal. come in. as a lot the get done with his one room where he is the other people at the refugees make do driven by hope of a better life in chile this is where we cook them or till
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yang it is. i don't want to know that i, well, i hope i can find words. i don't know, it's impossible in venezuela or kit is that you have nothing to eat, then yolanda began matter for me then. but here i can earn money and support my family back home. the plan will travel hot. we see many families with children. they've left everything behind, pinning their hopes on a new home in chile. sometimes locals give them something to eat. more often they're met with hostility with old on the get the hockey set up a little only a lot of people just shut the door and our faces. wally, uncle, me, they won't give us anything to eat or mean not even for the children. no one yell at us and tell us to go home, but i got the book and oh no, no, no, i don't want not to play further on we see
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a family by the side of the road. they are clearly exhausted. despite the scorching midday sun, they want to keep going until they reach a key cake, some 200 kilometers away. a long trip through the desert with a 2 year old and a 5 month old baby. unless i start got an album minim leafy. it's very hot weather. oh yeah. it took us 4 days to get here from the border. miranda need to get. we're not making much progress went along, but we haven't lost time where they can't enter these village. assign warns of pitbulls with william bumble router. i nodded out on some locals, offered us water that was contaminated with urine as all of our data. why would you do that? i mean of what i measure this so disrespectful. are the moderating allowed them i
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was was yeah, sheila isn't giving them the welcome. they'd hopeful they treated like parias any kiki refugees leaving abject conditions. many have settled near the clothing dump where the clothes they find, they went ah, my garden, this is got my 2 children and i fled through the desert. and let me cause if we had to leave behind the suitcase with our clothes bag, or we wouldn't have made it, we had to, i guess on. but i wonder, i've used up all my savings in florida. it was so cold and andy's up or mila door at night. i cut it with the children, want to keep warm, yama gardening. in the 2nd hand marketing until was busio, the venezuelan refugees can buy t shirts, jeans, and switches,
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or sell used clothes themselves. anything that's halfway decent he sold a give i can't log in with in a way when a local silva for poor people especially. and this is a place to buy and sell cheap quotes locally. fema bonia. again, the t shirts can be as cheapest 10 euro cents. didn't we both have bertha letter with any one without a job. if i, if they're close here, you know, dna, you know, they, that are our whole fellow curves. these clothes a europe's garbage. like it was a can tilly what arrives in chile is officially clothing is like a wardrobe. it a lot, but the countries in europe it garbage. sure it does it. but i me what you throw away is what we where we're at. is it i don't blame, i think unfortunately july and law makes those possible it nor they all in it.
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busy ah, 2000 kilometers away in south paolo, brazil. this is not hot of the south american textiles industry. the bomb had chiro district is a hub for clothes stores and textile factories. it's also home to many who leave off the industries leftovers on available thoughts on every day. at 5 in the afternoon, pedro de silva picks up whatever has been thrown away. it's a lot bags and bags and surplus textiles. i saw that i had thought that it was on the, on the left, this is how much is left over from production every day. it's all surplus, but we can use it never. it's in good condition way and can all be recycled. elaina because we're talking about one 5th of the fabrics used in production, ends up in the trash talk. you can shop your
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pedro gets annoyed when fabrics are thrown out along with normal household garbage, then the bags are worthless for them. with mr. aladdin woodson, we can't recycle textiles that have been in a bag with the trash. they get dirty bullies and then they're no good when they accomplish with don't work with people with that. yeah. the people in the textiles, factories just don't understand why socrates methods this is gina in ipad in yorba, instead of filling one bag with garbage and fabric scraps need. and they could use 2 bags and separate the waste. one of our saw elements like gun your it's not hard . i that yeah. go sat like i'm lazy and when boys of to put out in some, paolo 63 tons of fabrics grants are thrown away every day. a growing number of
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waste collectors had started specializing in clothing waste. laura is one of them. for her, it was a way out. the work helped her beat a crack addiction. today she's clean and belongs to a fabric recycling network. reset is the only if i go textile factories could join forces and transport their fabric waste to the suburbs where lots of small selling shops could really use it. but they refused till he's no at that jigger sonata. instead, many former homeless people, like laura collect the fabric scraps and bring them to maria, alina hillson. beck, storine law, hilalem. i am, i am all over the whole back here. the factories leftovers are piled up to the ceiling. 3 rooms, fully boxes and sacks. ascii not thought
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and be like you look at all this does the kiosk i lekia, nevada, our bodies, becky: so this is what the collectors have brought here. eyes brimming, compet. ideally, she's always more coming. oh, i'll mentor. sure. and all the time it is all meant maria, alina runs a charity project. she and her volunteer seamstresses, turn the scrap material into rock sex, yackino me now. so it all started a few years ago. so me, when i realized how many backpacks i own, one for sale sync or ca, said i was always buying new ones and throwing them out a me very right bay and you can buy. that's when i had the idea to manufacture backpacks from fabric scrap, say, a fuzzy machine. they produced $250.00 rucksacks a month from fabric that would otherwise end up in the trash. ya,
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yoko may say acrobat. i started paying the garbage collectors money for the scraps of oliver. i explained that a neat, clean fabrics, garcia brock, i yak, they've been bringing me tons of leftovers ever since. won't billing a seem, would you? me? maria manufactures and markets built bags and backpacks without any help from the government, yankee, she wants her project to show that sustainability can be profitable. that there is an alternative to disposable fast fashion. i specialize in a form from my pair nowadays. people are always buying clothes. they don't need to ga joseph. i'm off. they just want to make an impression impossible. brass though to fight. but you're worth as a person has nothing to do with luxury clothing. hello. you've all all to settle on
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a little panel up. it's about what's on the inside all set up. all the settlement, the standard key early head pleasant sustainability is key for the fabrics bank in another part of south paolo. a new delivery has just arrived leftovers from a factory. any one who drops off waste fabric can exchange it for other fabric. first, it gets weighed by founder lou greno. if i said a 0, so for see them, every one can drop our fabric and key to this. if you give us 10 kilos, q, you get 7 kilo's and return cues. he was supposed to rock up a clock out the for see the dollars the fabric bank keeps 30 percent and uses it to make new products. said in such a vase, argent as mice. initiatives like ours are good factors, but they're only small steps. ankle,
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they won't make the fashion industry sustainable. urge billy like more needs to change for my car, they keep it, it is a g winter class. when was it? true? sustainability would have to start with cotton. brazil is one of the largest produces worldwide. but most cotton grown here is genetically modified and heavily treated with pesticides such as a part of the so well, i know i said that my money that's just not sustainable. hey, i'm gonna gloss you its own. so the cotton has grown and nana cultures would and wouldn't be possible without agra toxins out. or did you face suspicious? c doesn't? i would have talks activist fin and a seaman says the industry needs a re boot. he said him was he put on the 0 help us. he says on think we need to aim for a circular economy when it comes to close production processes. and think about how used clothing can be recycled on an industrial scale as it can cause as, as,
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as hopeless. eat on singer like a digital g for the fashion industry to become more sustainable, get on to for how may need to move away from throw away society r. s. if we go to my sustain coghlan amada, ah, a concept that hasn't made its way to a kiki back in chile chia, no one has been able to tackle the garbage problem. several illegal garbage dumps deleted and mount the african. that is it. this one is the size of 25 soccer fields. at night paypal dump, anything they want to get rid of saving the fees charged by the official garbage dump down the road. for some 25 men, the dump is home and their work place. they sort anything that can be recycled. oh, i want to. yes, this is our life. alright, i was in
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a room. i used to work at another landfill sites. it was a little devil gabble. we do a good job at the end. we don't bother anyway. no, not there was a leak in the 9, nothing was a another one problem is that the discarded clothes are mostly synthetic. so they take years to bio degrade incinerating them releases, chemicals that end up contaminating groundwater. fast fashion is an environmental night man. so that any walk on the samantha gallagher, i don't really mean we are counting on chillies, ministry of the environment, that they to develop a new strategy, a lateral bar. go on. bless you, go then throw them alley, get to make it compulsory and foreign porters to dispose of their clothing waste responsibly. cargo. the lateral bucket is that you are slowly the companies operating in the free trade zone. a realizing it's time for
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a rethink if only to improve their image. that particular boiler, the fuel, casey etha, i would, i can say is that the clothing import companies want to help things improve your funding portal. they want to address the negative impact of their business model. yeah. and they've got the others, what the situation is definitely going to change charlie privacy. i will come here for a few deny that reform is long overdue. it's up to fashion companies, politicians and consumers to change practices, policies and behavior. otherwise dumps like these will continue to grow with
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she needed out yet. unfortunately, she talked and a south, a mother is going to spend the rest of her life behind bars for murdering her 3 daughters. i need to do any more. ah, i see the sign was pyre of psychosis is an awful illness. postpartum is a nasty mother's nightmare starts june forth on d, w. mm. ah
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ah, ah ah, this is d, w. news ally from berlin. the european union agrees to ban most russian oil imports by the end of the year after weeks of infighting, e u. member states reach a compromise that will allow some russian oil to keep flowing. it's being described as the best deal they could get. also coming up, rushing, forces pushed deeper into the eastern ukrainian city of c. you have gotten the net authorities fear the city could meet the same fate as mo bolt which brush its
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