ah, with 2 musicians who lived beneath the swastika of from about the sounds of power and inspiring story about survival. thanks to music. fetch the cello player. well, i was the only one i'm super lucky. music under the swastika starts november 19th on t w. with shop till you drop while retailers feed, the world's fashion addiction. the garment industry is under pressure to culbert

environmental and social impact on a going jeopardy. we uncover ways to move forward from fost before ever fashion. hello, welcome. i'm some of that. a fashion is one of the most polluting industries on the planet, contributing significantly to global greenhouse gas emissions and waste water and every 2nd attract lawn full of clothes is born or buried in landfill. while younger indians have only recently adopted the concept of 51 model of re was, has been around for centuries practice by the nomadic community of butcher up. ah manet for 30 years of a life, leila has walked the lanes of mom by going door to door to collect old clothes from local residence. she belongs to the vog g. a nomadic tribe from northern cal jots

did not as long faced social stigma and discrimination its members eke out a living with a real use model that is unique to india, the exchange used clothes for brand new utensils, plastic whereas all cash the buy that loan for approximately 10 rupees bustios and sell them for $22.00 total bees after washing and i had an alarm in the clothes i taught when you have to saw them before these sell them the val criselda gum and the collect at a suburban moon by market. it's an informal, bizarre, the kind that dot the unmarked liens of many big indian cities. there. the clothes are bought by, traders who sell them in remote villages, where people often can't afford new clothing. an estimated 40 tons of clothes are shipped from a single market like this one to rural regions every month. whatever is left behind, mostly torn and non wearable,

is sold by weight to drag merchants. declines include factories that turn the material into stuffings for car seats or mattresses. for instance, communities like the val greece could play a key role in the push toward a circular economy. that's why it's been singled out for support by the social enterprise bond, the recycling concern. a log out a day more these people bring in more than 5 to 6 tons of clothing into a single market. if these old lords were sent to a land building or ended up in granite systems, a single piece of clothing would take several years to recompose as some one english faith. alexander india generates close to 8000000 tons of textile raised every young too often. it ends up in the landfills or was. ready in the environment, it's a problem that's only lucky to get worse. hold wide gum introduction has doubled in the last 15 years. ready and with fast fashion says encouraging throw away consumer

habits. the number of times of clothing item is worn before it's discarded, has dropped over the past 2 decades by almost 40 percent. while the fashion industry does fuel growth and development, it's a massively resource intensive sector. the amount of water used are in the fashion industry is an unimaginable amount of 93000000000 metric cubes. and that can actually um, be drinking water for 5000000 people in a year. so that's the amount we are using to create fashion. to day, the global market for secondhand clothes is booming. in india, that market is still in its infancy, largely due to the cultural stigma associated with secondhand clothes. but in cities, young shoppers looking for sustainable alternatives to fast fashion cost started to embrace the pre warned trend, giving rise to a new culture of drifting that's taking off across the country. stores have sprung

up to feed demand for secondhand and vintage clothing and accessories. i'm it a stylist and fashion designer is a regular district store in one by his boundary neighborhood. we're all moving to a sustainability or sustainability is the most in thing right now and fashion. so it just makes sense, store to decide to stuff rather than you know, of wasting energy sources on manufacturing new stuff. all of them opened in 2019 bond the closet. cleanse allows people to walk in and sell their clothes for cash. people who come in, he'll into the store on, on people who just can't afford clothes, new clothes, they're doing this because, oh, it's a lifestyle change that is going to increase the life cycle of these chlorine resale is predictor to overtake the e commerce marketing in the next few years and then helping guide indian fashion

brands to the 2nd and segment, or facilitators like re love a, a circular tech platform built by kid fi bonia and brought the goddam. it helps brands to re sell their products on their own websites to buy. so if you see a hashtag turf india on instagram, last year in janet was for lack posts. right now it's 7 lack of course. so jan until now, that's the growth you seen. a huge amount of interest from people from brands would only want on board on this platform. and we saw 80 percent of all in mentee that we've already got for sale, the average time massage of $6.00 to $7.00 days. so today i would say when a completely supply constrain market rather than a demand constraint market on some thrift stores are trying to incorporate log re women into their value chain. they buy ident suited for the days of the clinton

directly from the women. and they also serve as a one stop collection point for traditional clothing that the women can pick up to select their markets. this model, if scale, could help address one of the primary challenges faced by the walgreens. the physical strain of spending more than half their day on their feet, wandering city lanes. they taught me so much more than lenient if you could become bundles of clothes and monday. then we wouldn't have to go door to door from one house to another. if it were stored in a run, please, if you could easily collect the val great, have struggled with vulgar d and public suspicion for generations. they are denied access to housing complexes, but they could collect clothes and face harassment from pullers and authorities. when they tried to hold a fixed market, steps to organize the informal trade could help india secure

a share of the global secondary market. that's valued at $36000000000.00. and finally, bring the valjean recognition for their valuable role. as india's opened recyclers open for business, 247. eke, almost pushes the frenetic place of changing trends. encouraging consumers to impulse buy with easy purchases and returns. chinese retailers, she in, has taken fast fashion to new heights with a dizzying output of new styles at rock bottom prices. as i reporter discovered, its success comes at a cost of those producing its clothes and to the enlightenment, yada z. i hope it really heavy. oh, welcome to the world. oh, yes, i don't think it's shine. she in is how i tend to pronounce it. she in isn't just

vows fashion, it's ultrafast. you can get dresses for 5 euros bags for sex or courses for 3. if you want a nose ring for $0.75, this is your jam. jonesy has pretty much gone bananas herb company, which exists entirely morrila from social media has no physical stores. at his operations are moralist, a big lock box. we took a dive into this vast fashion phenomenon and what a goods for the environment in an air of growing climate consciousness. how is this even happening? you know, what you know is, of course it's a big online fission store. you shop them much more sometimes. yeah, there's nice stuff, it's cheap, nice fabric. i think of, of the ones i wanted to return. everything is not really any point when you pay

like 20 years. she and targets mostly young women. it adds thousands of things to its inventory every day. at any one time, it has as many as $600000.00 products with a typical price tag between $8.00 and $30.00. it stuff can be half as cheap as other fast fashion china. and what is different is that the exclusion as young go with. so it helped with product to separate. this is superior to co dolly an expert on all things, e commerce and parent of to jonesy girls. but she is also from my understanding, have quite a bit for marketing it. social media strategy centers around getting celebrities and influenced us to market the brand on social media. katie perry little nozzle, rita, aura, storm breed and yarrow shahida have all gotten on the she entering. please don't forget to bide work together t shirt a so much for tuning into lucy and together. but the biggest part of its online presence has to do with the hall on tick tock. users post reels that show of what they ordered and what they got. a lot of these posts go viral,

crating marketing campaign that basically runs itself. i bought $2000.00 as my sugar looks pretty good. i see of this very addictive algorithm. influencers and young women, maxine veda, is the go to expert on the fashion and garment industry. it's a very like impressionable age where they want to fit in, in clothing companies have utilized that insecurity to, to drive a lot of sales, but never to the extreme that we're now seeing the she and hashtag on tick tock has 17000000000 views. it's instagram account has over 22000000 followers. this year it was the number one shopping up in 56 countries. a reportedly made $10000000.00 in revenue last year, which means it's catching up fast to giants like h an. m. and zora she and has dominated fast fashion in the west, but its headquarters there half way across the globe,

and gondo china. and what happens there? well, nobody really knows their very secret if they don't talk to anybody. so it's very hard to know exactly what they're doing. usually fast fashion companies take a month to get an item from designed to store. but analysts say she and cuts that time to as little as a week. it uses powerful algorithms to predict trends and sometimes doesn't even start manufacturing until the order is placed in the there is no magic, right. the only way that you get very cheap product is by not paying workers and floating any environmental standards. they have a high, a lot of temporary walkers and they have to have contracts. it's to either a small factories and house workshops or pay is $1.00 of the only journalist who went to sions production sites and guam dro to investigator labor practices. she found a disparate web of crowded workshops under pain people without official contracts. it's not that she has that child labor, she has the abuse, the

a walk her is the issue is those walkers they are not in the social welfare system . this means workers have no rights or guarantees the demand for cheaper, faster clothing means that wages in any industry have to be low to remain competitive. it's not only about a shame, but it's a more social is 2 prevail in the whole society. and as it turns out, the company's been making headlines for the secrecy, the fashion transparency index, which rates companies on how open they are about their supply chains, listed she and at the bottom of its rankings. and what about the actual close? if it's too good to be true, then it probably is, you cannot have a business model like that and operate in any way with respect to the planet or it's people you just can't. plenty of people have taken to social media to protest the shoddy quality of its clothes. lee, i thought just the swim suits are going to be trash. um,

i could not be more disappointed. this is a piece of crap. so that, that disposable it means they're all getting dumped somewhere, almost a $100000000.00 tons of textiles and up and landfills every year. that's 500 ever given ships. the member, the thing that got stuck in the suez canal, most of it goes to the global south where local suffered the environmental consequences. and did you know that the fashion industry is responsible for 8 to 10 percent of greenhouse gas emissions? the garment industry is so unregulated that it's hard to say just how much is contributing to climate change. all we can say is that she in is accelerating it like never before. the very energy intensive process to create textiles. this production is happening in places like principally china with a cold, but you know, continues to have a cold based energy grid. but it all things. it is slowing down anytime soon. the average consumer today by 60 percent more than they did in 2000 brands, are now throwing double the amount of quoting to collections on. and she and takes

this to a whole new level. it taps into the insatiable consumers and that's shaped our world. the need to possess things and when we're sick of them to simply throw them away. i asked him young shoppers whether they thought about climate change, like no phones, like, why would i pay more when i can have something else for less? oh students. so we're pretty low on the funds, but i'm gonna get a real job window. one of the more with girls got to point, not everyone can afford to think about sustainability. the rise of she and might be breaking a meth we have about the next generations climate commitment. it is a very tall order to ask young people to do the right thing when the messaging is so intense to do something different. when you actually look at the data, you know, kids like 18 or 24 or more environmentally conscious and savvy, but it's actually lower than people who are like 25 to 35 and as such as kids,

i can't just blame kids. i think legislators will step up and make the, the rules necessary, but that takes people's participation. i've seen humans have a capacity from this to really put their heads in the sand. how do you bring those people in, in a way that's actually engaging and non judgmental. alongside china, bangladesh is one of the world's largest exporters of upper world that on a plaza factory collapse less than a decade ago, prostate international spotlight on its goblin, dundas street. since then, the sector has worked to improve labor conditions and protect the environment, but progress has been battery. move april 2013 in the bangladesh capital deca, the collapse of the runa, plaza textiles, factory left more than 1100 people dead. and nearly 2 and

a half 1000 injured. the disaster put a spotlight on working conditions in bangladesh and sparked an international outcry . calls grew for changes to be made. no easy task. with more than 4500000 bangladesh is employed in the textile industry. just outside dhaka, the beck simo company has built a new factory with cutting edge machinery and its own di works. everyone here remembers the nightmare of 2013 on a plaza was one honorable memory which swelled over, happen, then bung. lavish. learn from that and change. the answer is yes, the militia factories who from the point of view of civil

safety, electrical safety, fire safety, are the safest in the world. now much attack cmo has been automated. though the company still employs 40000 people, but their situation is different to that of previous years. or come back after dark on her working conditions have improved considerably compared to a few years back. robin, my current salary, look, i can never live a very decent life. some are reported about by the grace of god who bought it. i'll humbly learn hope a lot. 30 kilometers away. the metella company makes fabrics for global export. it's textiles are made as precursor products for the wider industry colored and cut to be sold and rolls the company director says they pay fair wages and have to maintain environmental standards. because they know the eyes of the world are on them. you cannot say yes ma'am. this is like as an apple, as it is it,

it has gone actually. so, so far, what about going on? it is really good. i mean government also putting their hands and to make sure all these things would be a should be moving very precise way in terms of helping the financially as well as technically so there are so many things are going on ah, for the, for the text and sectors, a tool for them, but it's still far from enough. the head of the largest union has been fighting for decades for workers rights. he says the large companies have improved, but the smaller ones are lagging behind. this although for now we'll take a rich have sarah some 5th into 20000 small scale garment factories market which supply the demands of the local market as we sell them to local governance houses have local in these thousands of factories. it's only didn't allow for workplace

safety, 14 hours, 2nd working environment for army will nickel are still in an extremely bad state in dusty did the local need of what the we than her don't know, cause it in what they call a who is it? bangladesh is one of the world's most densely populated countries, and also one of its top textile producers. resources like water are scarce and often polluted, dies and waste aren't supposed to seep into waterways. but that's the reality indica. ah, companies who manage their own ways to remain the exception. metella is one of them . it carries out its own complex waste water treatment in its own plant. more than the law demands. so the fresh on in just me produce as 20 percent of the west. globally, so can you imagine how begley we are the 15th for the water,

pollution submittal or text l is completely different than others? because we do have, i mean, different kind of missionaries are fully automated, so that on jumps on a water is very less than others. even the large operators aren't voluntarily making these improvements. it took a legally binding international agreement between retailers, producers, and unions called the bangladesh, a court to impose them every mcglenn, if you factory, who wants to survive and has survived, or has changed a lot in the last 10 years and will again keep changing as the industrial moves forward and those who have not been willing to change relock, i don't have while out of business or will go out of business. but environmental bad practice in bangladesh won't simply be washed away overnight

from the factory flaws of bangladesh for the buzzing shoals of bad as fashion week . french designer marine sir, has put sustainable design and production at the heart of was succeed olibo. that commitment is reaping rewards in the form of critical praise and commercial success . at his latest, ready to where shall in paris marines sail sent out a collection that wasn't entirely new. many of the looks were crafted from sycold fabrics like towels and skags. this one, for instance, it was delivered just days earlier to the warehouse where shelves are bursting with piles of used textiles that the designing minds for inspiration. i do not really wish to make one more skirt, you know, like you, we had so much. and when i went for the 1st time in the warehouse where you can see these but leg curl and hard time bigger. you know, you feel really ah,

yeah, i was almost about to cry. you know, because i was, i was like, we are part of this industry. we are going to be the next bunch of fabric in tenure . and then i realized that i think like designer today or so of the responsibility of to of the whole word, discarded garments are delivered to her brands headquarters in northern paris, twice a week. every item of clothing is inspected, sorted by color and washed before the design. it considers what she wants to do with it. these belts, for example, turned into a dress that given the amount of handicraft involved could pass for a cartoon. and silk scarves draped into a mini dress in that dress. you have 5 seal scarf actually because you knew quite a lot for making the vernon you have one foot here. and you can see

that this seal scarf is not the same than this one. so that make that each piece will be all unique here bay. again, this one will be different scarf, it's hard to tell this jacket was once a towel, money cell has developed lines within a label to provide information on a garments lifecycle. she endows the pieces with her trademark crescent moon, a print that earned her a celebrity following, including us pop star, beyonce model, kylie gena and british singer songwriter at down. in paris, madonna's daughter loaders took the motif down the runway in a full body. look. guests at the show back her use of recycled and regenerated fabrics, which editors and influences have dubbed ethical luxury home please . she has shown the matter. she takes these scraps that society no longer wants and

she transforms them into new clothes, former and their ultra cool. why? yeah, alter modern and alter new ha food i'm we're down in her new read for the 30 year old designer up cycling is more than just a buzzword. it's become the bedrock of her business. a lot is very different about her. i mean, she started the business, it was always thinking of ecology or one thing and up cycling and doing things in her own way, kind of futuristic. now that in san a can't imagine kraft and clothes any other way. by building a brand focused on sustainability. she's proving that re used and death stock materials had a place in fashions, future fashion is up lifting a piece of clothing can instantly elevate how we feel and project of the world

around us. but like we explore to me without sustainability, fashion will only make our future on a very difficult think about that and i'll see you again next week. good bye. and thanks for watching. ah hate ah, ah ah, ah,

with who a like fashion there is so much more than just the style for johannesburg based test, stylist, miss, i mean, the duma is a work of art in her salon. she gives natural hair,

an empowering expression and questions gender roles. their free magnitude, 90 minutes on d, w. a patriarchy that they need to stop doing and depressing women in latin america right? november 25th on d, w. oh, hello guys. this is the 77 percent the platform for africa. you beat issues and share ideas. ah, you know, or this channel, we are not afraid to happen. delicate because population is growing.

and young people clearly have the solution. the future belongs to the 77 percent. every weekend on d, w a frankfurt a have a lot international gateway to the best connections, off road and radio. located in the out of europe, you are connected to the whole world of experience outstanding shopping and dining offers and try our services. be our guest at frankfurt airport city, managed by fraud. ah ah

ah ah, this is dw slide from berlin. deadlocks talks on global warming. i extended by a day. europe hopes a new proposal, offering compensation for climate disasters can break the log jam. germany insist that china sign onto the plan also on.