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tv   Eco India  Deutsche Welle  November 18, 2022 11:30pm-12:01am CET

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i already know who's welcome to talk with them about hackers, paralyzing the tire societies, computers that outs where you and governments that go crazy for your data. we explain how these technologies work, how they can go some for that's how they can also go terribly. what you know on you tube ah, shop till you drop while retailers feed, the world's fashion addiction, the garment industry is under pressure to call,
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but in bad mental and social impact on a going jeopardy. we uncover ways to move forward from fost before able fashion. hello, welcome. i'm some of the fashion is one of the most looting industries on the planet contributing significantly to global greenhouse gas emissions and waste water and every 2nd attract lawn full of clothes is born or buried in land fins. while younger indians have only recently adopted the concept of 51 model of re was, has been around for centuries practice by the nomadic community of butcher up. ah manet for 30 years of a life, leila has walked the lanes of mom by going door to door to collect old clothes from local residence. she belongs to the valjean,
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a nomadic tribe from northern cal jots did not as long faced social stigma and discrimination its members eke out a living with a re used model that is unique to india. the exchange used clothes for brand new utensils, plastic whereas oak ash the lie that law and if one approximately 10 rupees bustios and sell them for $22.00 total bees after washing and add an aluminum in the clothes are torn when you have to store them before these sell them the val criselda garments the collect at a suburban mom by market. it's an informal, bizarre, the kind that dot the unmarked liens of many big indian cities. there the clothes are bought by traders who sell them in remote villages, where people often can't afford new clothing. an estimated 40 tons of clothes are shipped from a single market like this one to rural regions every month. whatever is left behind, mostly torn and non wearable,
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is sold by weight to drag merchants. declines include factories that turn the material into stuffings for car seats or mattresses. for instance, communities like the vaal greece could play a key role in the push toward a circular economy. that's why it's been singled out for support. but the social enterprise bond, the recycling concern. a look, only there more these people bring in more than 5 to 6 tons of gloating into a single market. if these old lords were sent to a land building or ended up in granite systems, a single piece of clothing would take several years to become paul had some one english faith. alexander india generates close to $8000000.00 tons of textile raised every year. too often it ends up in the landfills or wars in the environment . it's a problem that's only lucky to get worse. worldwide, government reduction has doubled in the last 15 years. ready and with fast fashion,
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since encouraging, throw away consumer habits. the number of times of clothing item is worn before it's discarded, has dropped over the past 2 decades by almost 40 percent. while the fashion industry does fuel growth and development, it's a massively resource intensive sector. the amount of water used are in the fashion industry is an unimaginable amount of 93000000000 metric cubes. and that can actually um, be drinking water for 5000000 people in a year. so that's the amount we are using to create fashion. today, the global market for secondhand clothes is booming in india, that market is still in its infancy, largely due to the cultural stigma associated with secondhand clothes. but in cities, young shoppers looking for sustainable alternatives to fast fashion. i started to embrace the pre warned trend, giving rise to a new culture of thrifting that's taking off across the country. stores have sprung
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up to feed demand for secondhand and vintage clothing and accessories. i met a stylist and designer, is a regular at this thrift store in one by his boundary neighbourhood. ah, we are all moving towards sustainability. oh, sustainability is the most in thing right now in fashion. so it just makes sense. story psychos stuff rather than you know, i'm wasting our resources on manufacturing new stuff. all of them opened in 2019 bonded closet. cleanse allows people to walk in and sell their clothes for cash. people who come in here and to the store on, on people who just can't afford fluids, new clothes, they're doing this because oh, if a lifestyle change that is going to increase the life cycle of these clothes resale is predictor to overtake the e commerce market in the next few years helping guide indian fashion
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brands to the 2nd segment, or facilitators like re love a, a circular tech platform built by kit the pony up and brought the got top. it helps brands to re sell their products on their own websites to buy. so if you see a hashtag turfed india on instagram last year in janet was for lack posts. right now it's 7 lack of course. so jan until now, that's the growth. you've seen a huge amount of interest from people, from brands that would only want on board on this platform. and these sort 80 percent of all the inventory that we've already got for sale. the average time massage are $6.00 to $7.00 days. so today i would say when a completely supply constrain market rather than a demand constraint, market, sun thrift stores are trying to incorporate logarithm and into their value chain. they buy, i don't suited for the dates of directly into directly from the women. and they
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also serve as a one stop collection point for traditional clothing that the women can pick up the salad, their markets in this morning it's gail could help address one of the primary challenges faced by the volcano. the physical strain of spending more than half the day on their feet, wandering city lanes. how much would the nino and if you could come in monday, then we wouldn't have to go to the one from one house. why not? if it was told in one, please, the connected the wagner have struggled with poverty and public suspicion. for generations. they denied access to housing complexes that they could collect close and face harassment from polish and apologies when they tried to hold a fixed market steps to organize the informal trade could help india
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secure a share of the global 2nd market. that's valued at $36000000000.00. and finally bring the voluntary recognition for the valuable role as india has opened, recyclers, ah, even for business, 247, east almost pushes the frenetic place of changing, trim, encouraging consumers to impulse buy with easy purchases and returns. chinese retailers, she has taken foss, fashioned to new heights, with a dizzying output of new styles as drop water prices, as a reporter discovered its success comes at a cost of those producing it's close and to the environment. yeah, i hope it really heavy. oh, welcome to the world. i was like,
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i don't think it's shiny. she in is how i tend to pronounce that. she in isn't just fast fashion, it's ultrafast. you can get dresses for 5 year old bags for sex, or courses for 3. if you want a nose ring for $0.75, this is your jam. jonesy has pretty much gone bananas, hope company, which exists entirely, more or less on social media, has no physical stores. his operations are more or less a big black box. we took a dive into this fashion phenomenon and what a goods for the environment in an air of growing climate consciousness. how is this even happening? you know what she is? oh yes, of course. it's a big online fishing sto, shop that much more sometimes. yeah, there's nice stuff, it's cheap, nice fabric. i think of, of the ones i wanted to return. everything is not really any point when you pay
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like 20 years. she and targets mostly young women. it adds thousands of things to its inventory every day. at any one time, it has as many as $600000.00 products with a typical price tag between $8.00 and $30.00. it stuff can be half as cheap as other fast fashion china. and what is different is that the exclusion as young people with phones they've helped with product discovery. this is richard a co dolly, an expert on all things, e commerce and parent of to jonesy girls. but she is also from my understanding here quite a bit from marketing. it's social media strategies, centers around getting celebrities and influencers to market the brand on social media. katie perry, little nasdaq's, rita, aura, storm breed. and yar shahida have all gotten on the she in train, please don't forget to buy more. she end together t shirt, a thought for tuning into the she and together. but the biggest part of it's online presence has to do with the hall on tick tock. users post reels that show of what they ordered and what they got. a lot of these posts go viral,
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crating marketing campaign that basically runs itself. i thought $2000.00 a month with looks pretty good. i did like see of this very addictive algorithm. influencers and young women. maxine beta is the go to expert on the fashion and garment industry. it's a very like impressionable age where they want to fit in, in clothing companies have utilize that insecurity to, to drive a lot of sales, but never to the extreme that we're now seeing the she and hashtag on tick tock has 17000000000 views. it's instagram account has over 22000000 followers. this year it was the number one shopping up in 56 countries. if reportedly made 10000000 in revenue last year, which means it's catching of fast giants like h n. m and sarah shan has dominated, fast fashion in the west, but it's headquarters,
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they're half way across the globe and quanto china. and what happens there? well, nobody really knows their very secret it, they don't talk to anybody. so it's very hard to know exactly what they're doing, usually fast fashion companies take a month to get an item from designed to store. but analysts say she and cuts that time to as little as a week. it uses powerful algorithms to predict trends and sometimes doesn't even start manufacturing until the order is placed. the, there is no magic, right? the only way that you get very cheap product is by not paying workers an flouting any environmental standards. they have to a high, a lot of temporary walkers and they have to have contracts. it's to either a small factory then house what shops will pay. it is one of the only journalists who went to sions production sites and guam dro to investigator labor practices. she found a desperate web of crowded workshops under pain people without official contracts. it's not that she has that child labor. she has the abuse
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d a walk her is the issue is those walkers they are not in the social welfare system? this means workers have no rights or guarantees the demand for cheaper faster clothing means that wages need history have to be low to remain competitive. it's not only abolish shane, but it's a more social is seuss, prevail in the whole society. and as it turns out, the company's been making headlines for the secrecy, the fashion transparency index, which rates companies on how open they are about their supply chains, listed she and at the bottom of its rankings. and what about the actual close? if it's too good to be true, then it probably is, you cannot have a business model like that and operate in any way with respect to the planet or it's people you just can't. plenty of people have taken to social media to protest the shoddy quality of its clothes. honestly, i thought just the swim suits are gonna be trash. i could not be more disappointed
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. this is a piece of crap. so if a thought disposable it means they're all getting dumped somewhere, almost a $100000000.00 tons of textiles and up and landfills every year. that's 500 ever given ships. remember the thing that got stuck in the suez canal, most of it goes to the global south, where local suffer the environmental consequences. and did you know that the fashion industry is responsible for 8 to 10 percent of greenhouse gas emissions? the garment industry is so unregulated that it's hard to say just how much is contributed to climate change. all we can say is that she in is accelerating it like never before. the very energy intensive process decree, textiles. this production is happening in places like principally china with a cold, but you know, continues to have a cold based energy grid. but i don't think it is slowing down anytime soon. the average consumer today by 60 percent more than they did in 2000 brands, are now throwing double the amount of quoting to collections on. and she and takes
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this to a whole new level. it taps into the insatiable consumers and that's shaped our world. the need to possess things and when we're sick of them to simply throw them away. i asked him young shoppers whether they thought about climate change, like no phones like why would i pay more when i can have something else for less? oh stance. so we're pretty low in the funds, but i'm gonna get a real job window. one of the more when girls got to point, not everyone can afford to think about sustainability. the rise of she and might be breaking a meth we have about the next generations climate commitment. it is a very tall order to ask young people to do the right thing when the messaging is so intense to do something different. when you actually look at the data, you know, kids like 18 or 24 or more environmentally conscious and savvy, but it's actually lower than people who are like 25 to 35. and it's not just kids.
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i can't just blame kids. i think legislators will step up and make the, the rules necessary, but that takes people's participation. i've seen humans have a capacity from this to really put their heads in the sand. how do you bring those people in, in a way that's actually. busy engaging and non judgmental. alongside china, bangladesh is one of the world's largest exporters of upper world that on a plaza factory collapse less than a decade ago, prostate international spotlight on it's goldman da da street. since then, the sector has worked to improve labor conditions and protect the environment, but progress has been battery. move april 2013 in the bangladesh capital deca, the collapse of the runa, plaza textiles, factory left more than 1100 people dead. and nearly 2 and
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a half 1000 injured. the disaster put a spotlight on working conditions in bangladesh and sparked an international outcry . calls grew 4 changes to be made. no easy task. with more than 4500000 bangladesh is employed in the textile industry. just outside dotcom the beck simo company, has built a new factory with cutting edge machinery and its own di works. everyone here remembers the nightmare of 2013 on a plaza was one audible memory, which is whatever happened, live bung, lavish learn from their den change. the answer is yes, the valid issue. factories who, from the point of view of civil safety,
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electrical safety. 5 safety, are the safest in the world. now, much attack simone has been automated, though the company still employs 40000 people, but their situation is different to that a previous years. or come there after you look on her working conditions have improved considerably compared to a few years back robin, my current salary. look, i can never live a very decent life. some are reported about by the grace of god who bought the umbrella hope a lot. 30 kilometers away. the metella company makes fabrics for global export. it's textiles are made as precursor products for the wider industry colored and cut to be sold and rolls the company director says they pay fair wages and have to maintain environmental standards. because they know the eyes of the world are on
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them. you cannot say yes ma'am. this is like as an apple, as it is it, it has gone actually. so, so far heard about going on. it is really good. i mean government also putting their a hand and to make sure all these things would be a should be moving very precise way in terms of helping the financially as well as technically so there are so many things that going on ah, for the, for the text as sectors, a tool for them now, but it's still far from enough. the head of the largest union has been fighting for decades for workers rights. he says the large companies have improved, but the smaller ones are lagging behind. this although for novel figure which has out there are some 15 to 20000 small scale garment factories market which supply the demands of the local market as we have them to local governance houses have local in these thousands of factories,
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only didn't allow for workplace safety 14 hours working environment for army was still in an extremely bad stains in dusty did the local need of what that would be than her don't know, cause it the what the quality bangladesh is. one of the world's most densely populated countries and also one of its top textile producers. resources like water are scarce and often polluted, dies and waste aren't supposed to seep into waterways. but that's the reality indica. ah, companies who manage their own ways to remain the exception. metella is one of them . it carries out its own complex waste water treatment in its own plant. more than the law demands. so the fresh on in just me produce as 20 percent of the west. globally, so can you imagine how begley we are effected for the water?
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pollution submittal at excel is completely different than others because we do have, i mean, different kind of missionaries are fully automated so that on jumps on a water is barely less than others. even the large operators aren't voluntarily making these improvements. it took a legally binding international agreement between retailers, producers, and unions called the bangladesh, a court to impose them every month, leather fee factory who wants to survive and has survived, or has changed a lot in the last 10 years and will again keep changing as the industrial moves forward and those who have not been willing to change re lot, i have, i don't have wall out of business or will go out of business. but environmental bad practice in bangladesh won't simply be washed away overnight
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from the factory flaws of bangladesh. for the buzzing shoals of batteries, fashion week, french and as i know, maureen's fair has put sustainable design and production, and the heart of will succeed or label. that commitment is reaping. rewards in the form of critical praise and promotional success. at her latest, ready to where show in paris, marina said, sent out a collection that wasn't entirely new. many of the looks were crafted from sycold fabrics like towels and skags. this one, for instance, it was delivered just days earlier to the warehouse where shelves are bursting with piles of used textiles. but the design and mines for inspiration. i do not really wish to make one more scourge, you know, like you, we had so much. and when i went for the 1st time in the warehouse where you can see these but leg curl and hard time bigger. you know, you feel really ah,
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yeah, i was almost about to cry. you know, because i was, i was like, we are part of this industry. we are going to be the next bunch of fabric in tenure . and then i realized that i think like designer today or served your husband's ability of do of the whole word discarded. garmen saw deliver to her brands headquarters in northern paris twice a week. every ice were clothing as inspected, sorted by color and washed before that is only considered what she wants to do with it. these belts, for example, turned into a dress that given the amount of handicraft involved could pass for architecture on silk scarves draped into a mini dress. in that dress. you have 5 seal scarf actually because you knew quite a lot for making the van line. you have one foot here,
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and you can see that this seal scarf is not the same than this one. so that means that each piece will be all unique here bay. again, this one would be different scarf. it's hard to tell this jacket was once a towel, money cell has developed lines within a label to provide information on a garments life cycle. she endows the pieces with her trade, la crescent, moon, a print that's earned her a celebrity, following, including us pop star beyond say, model. kylie gena and british, singer songwriter at down. in paris, madonna's daughter loaders took the motif down the runway in a full body look guests at the show back her use of recycled and regenerated fabrics, which editors and influences have dubbed ethical luxury home please . yes, you know, the matter. she takes the scraps that society no longer wants and she transforms
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them into new clothes, former in their ultra cool i. yeah. ultra modern and ultra newly retard weird. i'm . we're down in her new read for the 30 year old designer, up cycling as more than just a buzzword. it's become the bedrock of her business. a lot is very different about her. i mean, she started the business, it was always stinking of ecology. for one thing and up cycling and doing things in her own way, kind of futuristic. now learning santa can't imagine kraft and clothes any other way. by building a brand focused on sustainability, she's proving that re used and dead stock materials had a place in fashions, future fashion is uplifting. a piece of clothing can instantly elevate how we feel and project to the world around us. but like we
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explore to me without sustainability, fashion will only make our future on a very difficult think about that and i'll see you again next week. good bye. and thanks for watching. ah, [000:00:00;00] with ah,
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with who? a, a, what's behind van d. w. news, africa. the show that the issues shaping the continent life is slowly getting back
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to normal you way on the street to give you in the report on the inside our cars funds, it was on the ground reporting from across the continent. all the trends doesn't matter to you. in 30 minutes on the w ran a season pro physics and the right vehicle which can also be electric stone driver. iranian excell burger shows what's possible with a task rep 90 minutes on d. w. a fed up with an increasing number of
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women in latin america are getting fed up. they're fighting against sexism by you and for access to abortion. how effective or protest on the street with dogs, november 25th on d, w. music can't be destroyed. please come what you can try, but it's impossible. i own movies. ah, she performed for her life in auschwitz. jewish cellist anita laska on fish. he was the nazi's favorite conductor. mm hm. foot 2 musicians who lived beneath the banner of the swastika, ah, why was music so important to the national socialists? music and the odds were to be used as part of the motor machine, a film about the sounds of power,
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