tv Eco India Deutsche Welle November 21, 2022 3:02am-3:31am CET
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ah shop till you drop while retailers feed, the world's fashion addiction, the garment industry is under pressure to curb. it's in bad, mental and social impact. on going generally, we uncover ways to move forward from fast to forever fashion. hello, welcome. i'm some of that. a good fashion is one of the most will looting industries on the planet, contributing significantly to global greenhouse gas emissions and waste water. and every 2nd, a tractor on full of clothes is born or buried in landfills. while younger indians
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have only recently adopted the concept of 51 model of re was, has been around for centuries practice by the nomadic community of good to up. ah manet for 30 years of a life, leila has walked the lanes of mom by going door to door to collect old clothes from local residence. she belongs to the vog g. a nomadic tribe from northern cal jots did not as long faced social stigma and discrimination its members eke out a living with a real use model that is unique to india, the exchange used clothes for brand new utensils, plastic whereas all cash the buy that loan for approximately 10 rupees bustios and sell them for $22.00 total bees after washing and i had an alarm in the clothes i taught when he had to saw them before. these seldom de val criselda gardens to
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collect at a suburban moon by market. it's an informal, bizarre, the kind that dot the unmarked lanes of many big indian cities. there. the clothes are bought by, traders who sell them in remote villages, where people often can't afford new clothing. an estimated 40 tons of clothes are shipped from a single market like this one to rural regions every month. whatever is left behind, mostly torn and non wearable, is sold by weight to drag merchants. declines include factories that turn the material into stuffings for car seats or mattresses. for instance, communities like the vaal greece could play a key role in the push toward a circular economy. that's why it's been singled out for support by the social enterprise bond, the recycling concern. over a long only day more these people bring in more than $5.00 to $6.00 tons of clothing into a single market. if these old lords were sent to
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a land building or ended up in granite systems, a single piece of clothing would take several years to recompose as some one english faith islands out there. india generates close to 8000000 tons of textile raised every young too often it ends up in landfills or wars. ready environment it's a problem that's only lucky to get worse. hauled wide gum introduction has doubled in the last 15 years. ready ready and with fast fashion says encouraging throw away consumer habits. the number of times of clothing item is worn before it's discarded, has dropped over the past 2 decades by almost 40 percent. while the fashion industry does fuel growth and development, it's a massively resource intensive sector. the amount of water used are in the fashion industry is an unimaginable amount of 93000000000 metric cubes. and that can actually, um, be drinking water for 5000000 people in
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a year. so that's the amount we are using to create fashion. today, the global market for secondhand clothes is booming in india, that market is still in its infancy, largely due to the cultural stigma associated with secondhand clothes. but in cities, young shoppers looking for sustainable alternatives to fast fashion. i started to embrace the pre warned trend, giving rise to a new culture of thrifting that's taking off across the country. stores have sprung up to feed demand for secondhand and vintage clothing and accessories. i met a stylist and in designer is irregular at this thrift store in one by his boundary neighbourhood. ah, we are all moving towards sustainability. oh, sustainability is the most in thing right now and fashion. so it just makes sense. storage and the size of the stuff rather than you know, of wasting our resources on manufacturing new stuff. all of them opened in 2019
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bonded closet. cleanse allows people to walk in and sell their clothes for cash. people who come in, he'll into the store on, on people who just can't afford clothes, new clothes, they're doing this because oh, it's a lifestyle change that is going to increase the life cycle of these clothes. resale is predictor to overtake the e commerce market in the next few years. helping guide indian fashion brands to the 2nd segment. our facility does like re love a, a circular take platform built by kit people near and brought the good top. it helps brands to re sell their products on their own websites to buy. so if you see a hashtag turfed india on instagram last year in jan, it was for lack posts. right now it's 7 lack of course. so jan until now,
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that's the growth you've seen a huge amount of interest from people from brands that would only want on board on this platform. and we've sort 80 percent of all the inventory that we've already got for sale, the average time to so just $6.00 to $7.00 days. so today i would say when a completely supply constrain market rather than a demand constraint market, some thrift stores are trying to incorporate logarithm and into their value chain. they buy, i don't suited for the dates of directly into directly from the women. and they also serve as a one stop collection point for traditional clothing that the women can pick up to sell at their markets. this model of skill could help address one of the primary challenges faced by the wagner and the physical strain of spending more than half the day on their feet. wandering city lanes, they taught me so much more convenient if you could that he cut bundles of clothes
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in monday. then we wouldn't have to go door to door from one house to another if it were historical and please be a good deal collected. the val green have struggled with baba d and public suspicion for generations. they are denied access to housing complexes, but they could collect clothes and face harassment from pullers and authorities. when they tried to hold a fixed market, steps to organize the informal trade could help india secure a share of the global secondary market. that's valued at $36000000000.00. and finally, bring the voluntary recognition for their valuable role as india's opened recyclers open for business, 247. e commerce pushes the frenetic place of changing trends, encouraging consumers to impulse by with easy purchases and returns. chinese
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retailers, she even has taken fast fashion to new heights with a dizzying output of new styles at rock bottom prices. as our reporter discovered, its success comes at a cost of those producing its clothes and to the environment. ya to see, you know the bar by opening it really heavy. oh, welcome to the world. oh yes, i don't think it's shine. sheehan is how i tend to pronounce it. she and isn't just foss fashion. it's ultrafast. you can get dresses for 5 euros bags for say, of course it's for 3. if you want a nose ring for $0.75, this is your jam. jonesy has pretty much gone bananas hope company, which exists entirely more or less from social media, has no physical stores, and his operations are more or less a big black box. we took a dive into this vast fashion phenomenon. and what about for the environment in an
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air of growing climate consciousness? how is this even happening? you know what she is? oh yes, of course. it's a big online fishing sto. you shop that much more sometimes. yeah, there's nice stuff. it's cheap. nice fabric. i think of, of the ones i wanted to return. everything is not really any point when you pay like 20 years. she and targets mostly young women. it adds thousands of things to its inventory every day. at any one time, it has as many as $600000.00 products with a typical price tag between $8.00 and $30.00. it stuff can be half as cheap as other fast fashion china. and what is different is that the exclusion as young people with phones it helped with product a separate does the security code ali and expert on all things e commerce and parent of to jonesy girls. but she is also from my understanding
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here quite a bit for marketing, it's social media strategies centers around getting celebrities and influences to market the brand on social media. katie perry, little nasdaq's, rita, aura, storm breed. and yar shahida have all gotten on the she entering the please don't forget to buy more. she em together, t shirt a so much for tuning into the she and together. but the biggest part of it's online presence has to do with the hall contact. talk users post reels that show of what they ordered and what they got. a lot of these posts go viral, crating marketing campaign that basically runs itself. i thought $2000.00 is might be an issue. okay. looks pretty good. i'd like see of this very addictive algorithm influencers and young women. maxine veda, is the go to expert on the fashion and garment industry. it's a very like impressionable age where they want to fit in. in closing,
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companies have utilized that insecurity to, to drive a lot of sales, but never to the extreme that we're now seeing the she and hashtag on tick tock has 17000000000 views. it's instagram account has over 22000000 followers. this year it was the number one shopping up in 56 countries. if reportedly made 10000000000 and revenue last year, which means it's catching of fast giants like h n. m, and sorrow. she has dominated fast fashion in the west, but its headquarters there half way across the globe and gondo china and what happens there? well, nobody really knows their very secret it, they don't talk to anybody. so it's very hard to know exactly what they're doing. usually fast fashion companies take a month to get an item from designed to store, but analysts say she and cuts that time to as little as a week. it uses powerful algorithms to predict trends and sometimes doesn't even start manufacturing until the order is placed. the, there is no magic, right? the only way that you get very cheap product is by not paying workers and flouting
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any environmental standards. they have to a high, a lot of temporary walkers and they have to have contracts. it's to either a small factories and house workshops. all pay is $1.00 of the only journalist who went to sions production sites and guam dro to investigator labor practices. she found a desperate web of crowded workshops under ping people without official contracts. it's not that she has that child labor, she has the abuse, the a work her. the issue is those walkers, they are not in the social welfare system. this means workers have no rights or guarantees the demand for cheaper, faster clothing means that wages in the industry have to be low to remain competitive. it's not only abolish shane, but it's a more social is seuss, prevail in the whole society. and as it turns out, the company's been making headlines for the secrecy,
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the fashion transparency index, which rates companies on how open they are about their supply chains, listed she and at the bottom of its rankings. and what about the actual close? if it's to her to be true, then it probably is, you cannot have a business model like that and operate in any way with respect to the planet or it's people you just can't. plenty of people have taken to social media to protest the shoddy quality of its quality. honestly, i thought just the swim suits are going to be trash. i could not be more disappointed. this is a piece of crap. so the thought disposable it means they're all getting done somewhere. almost a $100000000.00 tons of textiles, end up in lentils every year. that's 500 ever given ships. remember the thing that got stuck in the us. now, most of it goes to global south where local suffered the environmental consequences and do know that the fashion industry is responsible for 8 to 10 percent of greenhouse gas emissions. the garment industry is so unregulated that it's hard to
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say just how much is contributing to climate change. all we can say is that she in is accelerating it like never before. the very energy intensive process to create textiles. this production is happening in places like principally china with a cold, but you know, continues to have a cold based energy grid. but at all things, it is slowing down anytime soon. the average consumer today by 60 percent more than they did in 2000 brands, are now throwing double the amount of quoting collections on. and she and takes this to a whole new level. it taps into the insatiable consumers and that's shaped our world. the need to possess things and when we're sick of them to simply throw them away. i asked him young shoppers whether they thought about climate change, like no phones, like, why would i pay more when i can have something else for less? oh students. so we're pretty low on the funds, but i'm gonna get a real job one day, one of the more girls got to point not everyone can afford to think about
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sustainability. the rise of she and might be breaking a mess. we have about the next generations climate commitment. it is a very tall order to ask young people to do the right thing when the messaging is so intense to do something different. when you actually look at the data, you know, kids like 18 or 24 or more environmentally conscious and savvy, but it's actually lower than people who are like 25 to 35 and as such as kids, i can't just blame kids. i think legislators will step up and make the, the rules necessary, but that takes people's participation. i've seen humans have a capacity from this to really put their heads in the sand. how do you bring those people in, in a way that's actually engaging and non judgmental. alongside china, bangladesh is one of the world's largest exporters of upper world that on
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a plaza factory collapse less than a decade ago, prostate international spotlight on its golden, dundas street. since then, the sector has worked to improve labor conditions and protect the environment, but progress has been battery. move april 2013 in the bangladesh capital deca, the collapse of the runa, plaza textiles, factory left more than 1100 people dead. and nearly 2 and a half 1000 injured. the disaster put a spotlight on working conditions in bangladesh and sparked and international outcry. calls grew for changes to be made. no easy task. with more than 4500000 bangladesh is employed in the textile industry. just outside dotcom the beck simo company, has built a new factory with cutting edge machinery and its own di works.
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every one here remembers the nightmare of 2013 on a plaza was one audible memory which suargo her up and then bangladesh. learn from that and change the answer is yes, the allah issue. factories who from the point of view of civil safety, electrical safety. 5, safety are the safest in the world. now much attacks him out has been automated. though the company still employs 40000 people, but their situation is different to that of previous years. or after dark on her working conditions have improved considerably compared to a few years back. i come to robin, my current salary, look, i can never live
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a very decent life. some are reported about by the grace of god who brought the i'll humbler hope a lot. 30 kilometers away. the metella company makes fabrics for global export. it's textiles are made as precursor products for the wider industry colored and cut to be sold in roles. the company director says they pay fair wages and have to maintain environmental standards because they know the eyes of the world are on them. you cannot say yes ma'am. this is like as an apple, as it is it, it has gone actually. so, so far, what about going on? it is really good. i mean government also putting their a hand and to make sure all these things would be a should be moving very precise way in terms of helping the financially as well as technically so there are so many things that going on ah, for the, for the text and sectors, a tool for them. but it's still far from enough.
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the head of the largest union has been fighting for decades for workers rights. he says the large companies have improved, but the smaller ones are lagging behind. this, although for novelty got rich. have sarah some 15 to 20000 and small scale garment factories market which supply the demands of the local market as we have them to local governance houses have local in these thousands of factories. it's only didn't allow for workplace safety, 14 hours working environment for army good are still in an extremely bad staged in dusty did the local need of what that would be than has done no cause it do what they call a who is it? bangladesh is one of the world's most densely populated countries, and also one of its top textile producers. resources like water are scarce and often polluted, dies and waste aren't supposed to seep into waterways. but that's the reality
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indica. ah, companies who manage their own ways to remain the exception. metella is one of them . it carries out its own complex waste water treatment in its own plant. more than the law demands. so the fresh on in just me produce as 20 percent of the west. globally, so can you imagine how bagley we are effected for the water pollution submittal at excel is completely different than others because we do have, i mean, different kind of missionaries are fully automated. so that, and jumps on a water is very less than others. even the large operators aren't voluntarily making these improvements. it took a legally binding international agreement between retailers, producers and unions called the bangladesh, a court to impose them every bungler. if he factory who wants to survive and has
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survived or has changed a lot in the last 10 years and will again keep changing as the industrial moves forward and those who have not been willing to change. relock have, i don't have while out of business or will go out of business. but environmental bad practice in bangladesh won't simply be washed away overnight from the factory flaws of bangladesh for the buzzing shoals of batteries, fashion week, french designer, marine sir, has put sustainable design and production. and the heart of will succeed or label that commitment is reaping. rewards in the form of critical praise and commercial success. at her latest, ready to wear show in paris, marine self sent out
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a collection that wasn't entirely new. many of the looks were crafted from sycold fabrics like towels and skags. this one, for instance, it was delivered just days earlier to the warehouse where shelves are bursting with piles of used textiles, that the design and mines for inspiration. i do not really wish to make one more skirt, you know, like you, we had so much. and when i went for the 1st time in the warehouse where you can see this but like her and her time bigger. you know, you feel really ah, yeah, i was almost about to cry. you know, because i was like, wow, like we are boss of this industry. we are going to be the next bunch of fabric in tenure. and then i realized that i think leg designer today or served has sponsibility of do of the whole word discarded garments or deliver to her brands headquarters in northern paris, twice a week. every item of clothing is inspected,
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sorted by color and was before the designer considers what she wants to do with it . these belts, for example, turned into a dress that given the amount of handicraft involved could pass for architecture and silk scarves draped into a mini dress in that dresser. 5 seal scarf, actually because you knew quite a lot for making the van line. you have one foot here, and you can see that this seal scarf is not the same than this one. so that means that each piece will be all unique here bay. again, this one would be different scarf. it's hard to tell this jacket was once a towel, money cell has developed lines within a label to provide information on a garments life cycle. she endows the pieces with her trade, la crescent moon, a print that earned her a celebrity following, including us pop star fiance model,
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kylie gena and british, singer songwriter at down. in paris, madonna's daughter loaders took the motif down the runway in a full bodied up some guests at the show back her use of recycled and regenerated fabrics, which editors and influences have dubbed ethical luxury home. please . yes, you know, she takes the scraps that society no longer wants and she transforms them into new clothes former and there ultra cool. i yeah. ultra modern and ultra newly retard route i'm. we're down in her new read for the 30 year old designer, up cycling as more than just a buzzword. it's become the bedrock of her business. a lot is very different about her. i mean, she started the business. it was always stinking of ecology. for one thing
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and up cycling and doing things in her own way, kind of futuristic. now learning sal can't imagine craft and clothes any other way by building a brand focused on sustainability. she's proving that re used and death stock materials have a place in fashions future fashion is up lifting a piece of clothing can instantly elevate how we feel and project to the world around us. but like we explore to me without sustainability, fashion will only make our future on a very difficult think about that and i'll see you again next week. good bye. and thanks for watching. ah,
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now. hey guys, it's evelyn sharma. well, come to my podcast, love matter. that i and life celebrities influences and experts to talk about all plain loved beg, from dating and india today. nothing up with less the south, all these things and more in the new season of the pot. come, make sure to tune and wherever you get your pot cast and join the conversation. because you know it who love matters blue with what we eat and drink if somebody's the entity to perform a wide range of functions. but not all of it gets used and some of it as even toxic . our body also produces its own substances that have to be excrete it quickly. the human body has a built in filter system made up of our kidneys ladder.
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