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tv   Eco India  Deutsche Welle  November 21, 2022 1:30pm-2:01pm CET

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oh, ready knows. welcome to tech told me about hackers, paralyzing the tire societies. computers that helps you and governments that go crazy for your data. we explain how these technologies work, how they can make it and for that's how they can also go terribly. watch it now. you to ah shop till you drop while retailers feed, the world's fashion addiction, the garment industry is under pressure to call,
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but in bad mental and social impact on you going to actually we uncover ways to move forward from faust. affordable fashion. hello and welcome. i'm some of that. a fashion is one of the most looting industries on the planet, contributing significantly to global greenhouse gas emissions and waste water. and every 2nd, a truck to and full of clothes is burned or buried in land fins. while younger indians have only recently adopted the concept of 51 model of re was, has been around for centuries practice by the nomadic community of good up ah manet, for 30 years of a life, leila has walked the lanes of mom by going door to door to collect old clothes from local residence, she belongs to the luxury,
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a nomadic tribe from northern virginia state. net as long faced social stigma and discrimination. its members eke out a living with a real use model that is unique to india. the exchange used clothes for brand new utensils, plastic whereas all cash, they buy that lawn, one approximately 10 rupees bustios and sell them for $22.00 total peas after washing and i didn't owe them in the clothes i taught when you have to saw them before we sell them the voc, re sell the governments to collect at a suburban mom by market. it's an informal, bizarre, the kind that dot the unmarked liens of many big indian cities. there the clothes are bought by traders who sell them in remote villages, where people often can't afford new clothing. and estimated 40 tons of clothes are shipped from a single market like this one to rural regions every month. whatever is left behind, mostly torn and non wearable, is sold by weight to drag merchants. declines include factories that turn the
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material into stuffings for car seats or mattresses. for instance, communities like the vaal greece could play a key role in the push toward a circular economy. that's why it's been singled out for support. but the social enterprise bond, the recycling concern. a look only there more these people bring in more than 5 to 6 tons of clothing into a single market. if these old lords were sent to a landfill or ended up in grin systems, a single piece of clothing would take several years to become bold as some one a glad faith. alexander india generates close to $8000000.00 tons of textile raised every year. too often it ends up in the landfills or was in the environment. it's a problem that's only lucky to get worse. worldwide, government reduction has doubled in the last 15 years. ready ready and with fast
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fashion, still encouraging thrown away consumer habits. the number of times of clothing item is worn before it's discarded, has dropped over the past 2 decades by almost 40 percent. while the fashion industry does fuel growth and development, it's a massively resource intensive sector. the amount of water used are in the fashion industry is an unimaginable amount of 93000000000 metric cubes. and that can actually, oh, been drinking water for 5000000 people in a year. so that's the amount we are using to create fashion. to do the global market for secondhand clothes is booming in india, that market is still in its infancy, largely due to the cultural stigma associated with secondhand clothes. but in cities, young shoppers looking for sustainable alternatives to fast fashion have started to embrace the pre warned trend, giving rise to a new culture of thrifting that's taking off across the country. stores have sprung
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up to feed demand for secondhand and vintage clothing and accessories. i met a stylist and designer is a regular district store in one by his boundaries neighborhood. ah, we're all moving towards sustainability. oh, sustainability is the most in thing right now in fashion. so it just makes sense. story psychos stuff rather than you know, of wasting our resources on manufacturing new stuff. all of them opened in 2019 bonded closet. cleanse allows people to walk in and sell their clothes for cash. people who come in your, into the store on, on people who just can't afford fluids, new clothes, they're doing this because oh, if a lifestyle change that is going to increase the life cycle of these close resale is predictor to overtake the e commerce market in the next few years. mm hm. and helping guide indian fashion
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brands to the 2nd and segment are facilitators like re love a, a circular tech platform built by kit the pony up and brought the got top. it helps brands to re sell their products on their own websites to buy. so if you see a hashtag turfed india on instagram last year in janet was for lack posts. right now. it's 7 lack of course. so jan until now, that's the growth. we've seen a huge amount of interest from people, from brands that would only want to onboard on to this platform. and we've sold 80 percent of all the inventory that we've already got for sale, the average time to so just $6.00 to $7.00 days. so today i would say what are completely supply constrained market rather than a demand constraint market. some thrift stores are trying to incorporate logarithm and into their value chain. they buy, i don't suited for the days of directly enter directly from the women. and they
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also serve as a one stop collection point for traditional clothing that the women can pick up, the salad, their markets. this model of skill could help address one of the primary challenges faced by the walgreens. the physical strain of spending more than half the day on their feet, wandering city lanes. they taught me so much with the nino and if you could become bundles of clothes in monday, then they wouldn't have to go door to door from one house to another. if it was stored in a run, please be a guy could easily collect the val greet, have struggled with vulgar, di and public suspicion. for generations. they are denied access to housing complexes, but they could collect clothes and faced harassment from pullers and authorities. when they tried to hold a fixed market, steps to organize the informal trade could help india secure
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a share of the global secondary market. that's valued at $36000000000.00. and finally, bring the valjean recognition for their valuable role. as india's opened recyclers open for business, 247. eke, almost pushes the frenetic place of changing trends. encouraging consumers to impulse buy with easy purchases and returns. chinese retailers. she even has taken fast fashion to new heights with a dizzying output of new styles at rock bottom prices. as i reporter discovered, its success comes at a false to those producing its clothes and to the enlightenment. jada, i hope it really heavy. oh, welcome to the world. oh, yes, i don't think it's shine. she
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n is how i tend to pronounce it. she and isn't just foutz fashioned, it's ultrafast. you can get dresses for 5 euros bags for sex or courses for 3. he won a nose ring for $0.75. this is your jam. jonesy has pretty much gone. bananas, hope company which exists entirely morrila from social media has no physical stores . at his operations are moralist, a big black box. we took a dive into this vast fashion phenomenon and what a goods for the environment in an air of growing climate consciousness. how is this even happening? you know what she is? oh, yes, of course. it's a big online fishing sto, shop that much more sometimes. yeah, there's nice stuff, it's cheap, nice fabric. i think of, of the ones i wanted spirits and everything is all really any point when you pay like 20 years. she and targets mostly young women. it adds thousands of things to
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its inventory every day. at any one time, it has as many as $600000.00 products with a typical price tag between $8.00 and $30.00. it stuff can be half as cheap as other fast fashion china. and what is different is that exclusion as young people with phones they've helped with product discovery, does the superior to co dolly an expert on all things, e commerce and parent of to jonesy girls. but she is also from my understanding here quite a bit from marketing it social media strategy centers around getting celebrities and influence for us to market the brand on social media. katie perry, little nasdaq's, rita, or a storm breed. and yar shahida have all gotten on the she in train, please don't forget to buy more shoes and together t shirt a thought for tuning into the she and together. but the biggest part of it is online presence has to do with the hall contact, talk users post reels that show of what they ordered and what they got. a lot of these posts go viral,
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crating marketing campaign that basically runs itself. i thought $2000.00 a month with it. okay. looks pretty good. i see of this very addictive algorithm. influencers and young women. maxine beta is the go to expert on the fashion and garment industry. it's a very like impressionable age where they want to fit in clothing companies have utilized that insecurity to, to drive a lot of sales, but never to the extreme that we're now seeing the she and hashtag on tick tock has 17000000000 views. it's instagram account has over 22000000 followers. this year it was the number one shopping up in 56 countries. have reportedly made $10000000.00 in revenue last year, which means it's catching up fast to giants like h an. m. and zora, shan has dominated fast fashion in the west, but it's headquarters, they're half way across the globe,
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and quanto china. and what happens sir? well, nobody really knows their very secret it, they don't talk to anybody. so it's very hard to know exactly what they're doing, usually fast fashion companies take a month to get an item from design to store. but analyst says she and cuts that time to as little as a week. it uses powerful algorithms to predict trends and sometimes doesn't even start manufacturing until the order is placed in the there is no magic, right? the only way that you get very cheap product is by not paying workers an floating any environmental standards. they have to a high, a lot of temporary walkers and they have to have contracts. it's to either a small factories, then house workshops will pay it as $1.00 of the only journalist who went to sheen's production sites and guam jo to investigator labor practices. 2 she found a disparate web of crowded workshops under ping people without official contracts. it's not that she has sad child labor. she has the abuse
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d a work her. the issue is those a walk her, they are not in the social welfare system. this means workers have no rights or guarantees the demand for cheaper, faster clothing means that wages 1000000 history have to be low to remain competitive. it's not only about shame, but it's a more social is seuss, prevail in the whole society. and as it turns out, the company's been making headlines for the secrecy, the fashion transparency index, which rates companies on how open they are about their supply chains, listed she and at the bottom of its rankings. and what about the actual close? if it's to her to be true, then it probably is, you cannot have a business model like that and operate in any way with respect to the planet or it's people. you just can't. plenty of people have taken to social media to protest the shoddy quality of its clothes. honestly, i thought just the swim suits are gonna be trash. um, i could not be more disappointed. this is
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a piece of crap. so if it's that disposable it means they're all getting dumped somewhere, almost a $100000000.00 tons of textiles and up and landfills every year. that's 500 ever given ships. remember the thing that got stuck in the suez canal, most of it goes to the global south where local suffered the environmental consequences. and did you know that the fashion industry is responsible for 8 to 10 percent of greenhouse gas emissions? the garment industry is so unregulated that it's hard to say just how much is contributing to climate change. all we can say is that sheehan is accelerating. it like never before. the very energy intensive process decree, textiles. this production is happening in places like principally china with a cold, but you know, continues to have a cold based energy grid. but i don't think it is slowing down anytime soon. the average consumer today by 60 percent more than they did in 2000 browser, now throwing w how to put in collections out. and she and takes this to
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a whole new level. it taps into the insatiable consumers and that's shaped our world. the need to possess things and when we're sick of them to simply throw them away. i asked him young shoppers whether they thought about climate change, like know phones, like why would i pay more when i can have something else for less oh stance. so we're pretty low in the funds, but when i get a real job window, one of the more when girls got to point, not everyone can afford to think about sustainability. the rise of she and might be breaking a meth we have about the next generations climate commitment. it is a very tall order to ask young people to do the right thing when the messaging is so intense to do something different. when you actually look at the data, you know, kids like 18 or 24 or more environmentally conscious and savvy, but it's actually lower than people who are like 25 to 35. and it's not just kids.
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i can't just blame kids. i think legislators will step up and make the, the rules necessary, but that takes people's participation. i've seen humans have a capacity from this to really put their heads in the sand. how do you bring those people in, in a way that's actually engaging and non judgmental. alongside china, bangladesh is one of the world's largest exporters of up a little that on a plaza factory collapse less than a decade ago. prostate international spotlight on it's goldman da da street. since then, the sector has worked to improve labor conditions and protect the environment, but progress has been battery. move april 2013 in the bangladesh capital deca, the collapse of the runa, plaza textiles. factory left more than 1100 people dead, and nearly 2 and
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a half 1000 injured. the disaster put a spotlight on working conditions in bangladesh and sparked an international outcry . calls grew for changes to be made, no easy task. with more than 4500000 bangladesh is employed in the textile industry . just outside dotcom, the beck simo company has built a new factory with cutting edge machinery and its own di works. everyone here remembers the nightmare of 2013 on a plaza was one audible memory, which swap over happen, live bung, lavish learn from their den jay's lawn. so it is, yes, the malady she factories who from the point of view of civil
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safety, electrical safety, 5, safety, are the safest in the world. now much attacks him out has been automated. though the company still employs 40000 people, but their situation is different to that of previous years. or come back after you look on her working conditions have improved considerably compared to a few years back. i can do about them, but my current salary, i can never live a very decent life. some are reported about by the grace of god who bought it. i'll humbly love, hope. allah's 30 kilometers away. the metella company makes fabrics for global export. it's textiles are made as precursor products for the wider industry colored and cut to be sold in roles. the company director says they pay fair wages and have to maintain environmental standards because they know the eyes of the world are on them. you cannot say yes ma'am. this is like as an apple, as it is it,
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it has gone actually. so, so far heard about going on. it is really good. i mean, god meant also putting their hands and to make sure all these things would be a should be moving very precise way in terms of helping the financially as well as technically so there are so many things are going on ah, for the, for the textile sectors, a tool for them now, but it's still far from enough. the head of the largest union has been fighting for decades for workers rights. he says the large companies have improved, but the smaller ones are lagging behind. are they? so although for now we'll take a, we have 0 some 15220000 small scale garment factories market which supply the demands of the local market as we shall have the, the local governance houses have welcome to in these thousands of factories. it's
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only been offered workplace safety, 14 hours working environment for army good. are still in an extremely bad stains in dusty. did the local need of what the we that know, don't know, cause it do what they call always it. bangladesh is one of the world's most densely populated countries, and also one of its top textile producers. resources like water are scarce and often polluted, dies and waste aren't supposed to seep into waterways. but that's the reality in dhaka. ah, companies who manage their own ways to remain the exception. metella is one of them . it carries out its own complex waste water treatment in its own plant. more than the law demands. so the fresh on industry produces 20 percent of the west globally. so can you imagine how begley we are effected for the water,
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pollution submittal or textile is completely different than others because we do have, i mean, different kind of missionaries are fully automated so that on jumps on a water is barely less than others. even the large operators aren't voluntarily making these improvements. it took a legally binding international agreement between retailers, producers, and unions called the bangladesh, a court to impose them every month if you factory who wants to survive and has survived, or has changed a lot in the last 10 years and will again keep changing as the industry moves forward and those who have not been willing to change relock, i don't have while out of business or available out of business. but environmental bad practice in bangladesh won't simply be washed away overnight
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from the factory flaws of bangladesh for the buzzing shows of batteries, fashion week. french designer, marine sir, has put sustainable design and production at the heart of a succeed olibo. that commitment is reaping rewards in the form of critical praise and commercial success. at her latest, ready to a show in paris, marine sale sent out a collection that wasn't entirely new. many of the looks were crafted from sycold fabrics like towels and skags. this one, for instance, it was delivered just days earlier to the warehouse where shelves are bursting with piles of used textiles. but the design and mines for inspiration. i do not really wish to make one more scourge, you know, like you, we had so much. and when i went for the 1st time in the warehouse where you can see these but like her and her time bigger. you know, you feel really, ah,
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yeah, i was almost about to cry. you know, because i was, i was like, we are boss of this industry. we are going to be the next bunch of fabric in tenure . and then i realized that i think leg designer today or so of the responsibility of to of the whole word discarded garments or deliver to her brands headquarters in northern paris, twice a week. every item of clothing is inspected, sorted by color and washed before the design. it considers what she wants to do with it. these belts, for example, turned into a dress that given the amount of handicraft involved could pass for architecture and silk scarves draped into a mini dress in that dress. you have 5 seal scarf actually because you knew quite a lot for making the van line. you have one foot here, and you can see that this seal scarf is not the same than this one. so that means
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that each piece will be all unique here bay. again, this one would be different scarf. it's hard to tell this jacket was once a towel, money cell has developed lines within a label to provide information on a garments lifecycle. she endows the pieces with her trade, la crescent moon, a print that earned her a celebrity, following, including us puffs darby on say, model. kylie gena and british, singer songwriter at down. in paris, madonna's daughter loaders took the motif down the runway in a full body look guess at the show back her use of recycled and regenerated fabrics, which editors and influences have dubbed ethical luxury home please . yes, you know, the matter. she takes the scraps that society no longer wants and she transforms
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them into new clothes, former in their ultra cool i. yeah. ultra modern and ultra newly retard weird. i'm, we're down in her new read for the 30 year old designer up cycling is more than just a buzzword. it's become the bedrock of her business. a lot is very different about her. i mean, she started the business. it was always stinking of ecology for one thing and up cycling and doing things in her own way, kind of futuristic. now that in san a can't imagine kraft and clothes any other way. by building a brand focused on sustainability, she's proving that re used and dead stock materials had a place in fashions. future fashion is up lifting a piece of clothing can instantly elevate how we feel and project to the world
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around us. but like we explore to me without sustainability, fashion will only make our future on a very difficult think about that and i'll see you again next week. good bye. and thanks for watching ah, [000:00:00;00]
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with who is the end of the pandemic in site? we show what it could look like. return to normal. and we visit
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those who are finding it difficult. with success in our weekly coven 19 special. every thursday on d. w. every day counts for us and for our planet. global ideas is on its way to bring you more conservation. how do we make cities greener? how can we protect habitats? we can make a difference. global ideas. the environmental series in over 3000 on d, w, and online. mm hm.
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ah ah. all we can be the generation that ends it for good malaria must die. so millions can live ah
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ah ah ah, this is dw news coming to you live from berlin. russian strikes pound ukraine's eastern don boss region. but in some parts relief after the retreat dw heads to a village in the newly liberated hassan region where people recount their

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