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tv   Close up  Deutsche Welle  December 6, 2022 4:30am-5:01am CET

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welcome to talk about hackers and paralyzing entire societies. computers that are smart, you and governments that go crazy for your data. we explain how these technologies work, how they can go in for, and that's how they can also go terribly. watch it now. new to these hungry silkworms are eating their way to sustainable fashion for switzerland, their own as a venturing into semi culture breeding. silkworms for swiss silk buys help extra impulse to me. it's really fascinating to watch the whole cycle develop all to come
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to really see that in such a short time with any other agricultural product or in court decides in color with the idea is to produce home spun sustainable fashion in switzerland. it could avoid the huge carbon footprint caused by importing silk from china. chauffeured. thus, in maniquan otto and i hope my generation and future generations can bring about change to produce more sustainably. and locally, ashton ah ah ah, it really came up with the idea of breaking silkworms, which are actually caterpillars, the lawful form of the domestic silk. the lab space he needed his experiment was
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rather testing for his family at 1st. so thick of the yellow. oh, he said t ashanti von, but he was bearing his silkworms in our bathroom, over the bath tub in there, on my own for our daughter and i well, we didn't find it that practical phone bis him now york rock dish who ali and bettina resolve the conflict by moving miss silkwood trays to the garage, the humble origin of many a grand project. there always been a long period. oh, i'm a foreigner, but i have no land. this is not always a problem right on the through. so i decided to focus on special cultures where you can produce a lot on very little land forms i the health 60, i'm also a textiles engineer. so so grams are a good match form. this is the thought was partly out of necessity, but it's also fascinating competency. it's really fascinating to watch the whole
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cycle develop. you rarely see that in such a short time with any other agricultural product, falls to comb. i didn't want to talk to him, so it was a combination of necessity and fascination of the fiscal of anna mitchell. tish north end of this kyle on fish. false timothy. ah, this is the sound of 12000 hungry caterpillars munching the idea of making money from syria culture was a bold one, especially in switzerland. silk is actually from china where production originated thousands of years ago, bettina and really had to face resistance from a powerful knobby at 1st on the pick steel. but all sher warranty reactions from the textile industry were mostly negative. that i, it's crazy. it will never work,
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it's just a hobby off it off. it was mostly negative. fabi a mic up if all but over time, their attitudes changed. not to listen to that. of course, we're nation with very niche doing this, but we have revived the idea of making silk in switzerland. again, not every one is talking about it, but some are lemons that get it off. the silk yarn they spin is destined for the world's catwalks fashion designer raphael cooter. a star in switzerland is a strong advocate of swiss silk in the textile industry. he's showcasing his collection at the swiss design awards in basil, the leading national design competition for years. rafael hunted down the best materials in the archives, museums, and accompanies it, decided on swiss silk. melissa ali my to the, i'll to le, by to silk, is
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a great material to work with it. and it has something special compared to other fabrics. and that is, i prefer to work with natural fibers materials, what to up cycle materials and leftovers the island or did upside connect either monthly. i leftovers in 20. 19 rafael, one the award for fashion and textile design. at the switch design awards. sustainability has become an essential criterion. visit i named as i then this is a silk shirt and it's a vintage silk produced. i switzerland and everything has died by hand on that one on get back. it's gorgeous. there still from china is out of the question for him, thousands of kilometers of transport means a huge carbon footprint. as
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a top design. now he's given swiss fil a name. but the silk has also given him a night. has it been, looks of as he that dies it? i was lucky enough to win several different words and i was able to set up my own studio and zurich on that. some basically these are collect, this collection, for instance, was developed during the pandemic. so this is the 1st time i've been able to display it live on that that's big enough because i also made this video to present my work on film. i had my la because there were no opportunities to hold an exhibition or fashion show, right? so i know stella that i knew that so, so to martin mulberry tree leaves at the silkworms faithful food experiments facing them. other types of plant have all failed. the mulberry tree is robust,
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but there is one challenge the side that all these in. so silkworms are so sensitive because they've been specially brand for thousands of years purely to create silk hawk it serves to for sensitive to insecticides, of course, but also to fungicides and other chemicals. this is claude form that they like to caterpillars sick and kill them and all that on than optical children came sion teeth on did open. this is also why, sorry, culture is not possible in many places for all, for only under difficult conditions at all. and i'll talk because insecticides can drifting along alice how from large apple watches, for example, bhaskar olson, op for long block. and these chemicals settle on the mulberry leaves. we harvest the leaves him in the silkworms can't say that in the play the on decides that off that and cropping silkworms, voracious creatures it takes $450.00 kilos of mulberry leaves to raise his 12000
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silkworms. it really often has to bring in new supplies. how many of italy's neighbors are traditional farmers, such as peter bomb up his cows produce milk for chase, a classic swiss product. but unlike many of their colleagues, he understood the sil project right from the start. ny and man mom mate, he story kush pretty from a dollar. if you talk to historians for you will hear that circus produce and switzerland many years ago. i was so quorum, so thought out of italian, that o belong day for lisa. hong gallagher, i go. dueli has founded a suit, produces association called swift silk. so far, 11 production saxon switzerland had joined the association. he hoped the project.
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oh gra. to this same bodice, it was important for swift sale. i sent a regional example which would extend beyond switzerland, you know, and include nearby european contrast in all of it and where a complete supply chain could be built up. in the friday i met complet. they've had all items cut down. this would mean finance transport than usual in these times have globalized trying stalls the where sell comes from china or brazil, side in the home to a 3rd is more pentagon than okay. not com for the cross even comb, mythos feet on me. we don't trying to say to wow, direct. and we'll turn the whole system around here because it is in 49 small niche . so that's not our aspiration. really stop is that on screwed up with canon buys, but we can set an example by producing self locally to avoid greenhouse gases problems. a wall dipoles garza from out
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ah, ali is meeting a farmer in the picturesque sim into the valley. in the canton of ben, china managed to defend its so production monopoly the many centuries. in fact, it was a state secret which was systematically prevented from spreading. it wasn't until 552 idea that silkwood eggs finally reached you at all. so through this, danny christina is interested in suit production to young. it is not sure whether it will work with his business suite. the thing to have is with him out of out of
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way legislative. all the 1st step has worked out the tiny eggs with the size of poppy seeds have hatched on his a slot in alternate b o. i saw a picture in a biology book and i said to my wife, hey, that would be something different to something new because lot of this noise. and that's how it happened. and that's the reason we decided to try it out now. sink so different little to see it. us mallos vivian. ah, unix 1st attempt at siri culture has would be the issue is now finding a space to ria, more than $10000.00 silk lens. the garage is occupied with the co shit be an option with the stall here is delightful to negotiate. hair in times of space would be really
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good. good michael, i'm for mocker. just put a breathing tray down. he said he had more on a detail, but we need a constant temperature of 2122 degrees celsius. i'm frantic signs on to get out of society is the one thing. the other is the hygiene issue. hawkins is a cow shad suitable dismiss tomatoes for p a that you have to tried out it? the 3rd thing is access. how easily can you get there to feed the caterpillars that open no face? my recommendation is to always have a breathing room where you can go in your pajamas before bad home and bring in fresh leaves if necessary in common law, had potter control of it. it's the easiest and most efficient way to say if it's in the sunshine for speed from the north tablo from anywhere to scan. and in terms of the workflow it wouldn't be such a problem with or to inspect guest. it's always a bit more difficult in the evening just before you go to bed. when you're tired and you still have to attend to the animals of it. but it's the same in the winter
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when a cat is born, it doesn't care that you want to go to bed rock, they stop to inspect this to the knee. a jenny could have to plant at least a 120 mulberry trees, a silver production to be worth while ago from vienna. that over here his farm is at an elevation of either a 1000 meters. janik wants to know whether the mulberry trays could survive the winter at the moment that there wasn't many in it for the mid of that thought. the mccorkle up diva, i'll just keep your body. there are different varieties of mulberry tree variety. i would suggest is the one we have now fort lockwood pretty than can tolerate up to minus $25.00 degrees celsius in the winter wants it could alter the rate of meet them, be unique
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group of men's livelihood also depends on silk. she creates fashion flips with silk and other local raw materials you, nina, trained as an engineer in the construction sector. it decided to move away from building sites to the fine fabrics of fashion. cookie and distortion. cough was i, whenever i went to a store to buy something and i was always disappointed with the quality. so down
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that i wanted about the price. if canon, i could buy a t shirt for fi, frank, from your race. but how does not work? and oh, i'm done that my store all these videos about the accident and the run, a plaza garment factory and bangladesh. all that will fall where so many people died. and i just thought to look at what cost them for this life invasion closed. her concept is slowly fashion the opposite of throw away consumerism. her fashion also sells at higher prices than clothing from asia. then we are qualitative off. if we produce high quality clothes, we can wear them longer. i will put, that means we produce less weight and we'll give you that we can even recycle some parts gaping. or we could even composite the silk for example, seagal compost, the on flight all with all the sunk little contribution. hm. we can't even measure it yet. and couldn't that at least it something is. lani consists of all of this in
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mind that the idea of slow fashion is catching all after some initial difficulties you nina found business partners and customers willing to pay the price for sustainability swiss silt from the can't on burn has made its way back to zurich. in 1881, a silver weaving school was founded here to train specialist workers. however, by the beginning of the 20th century, the swiss silk industry was unable to keep up with international competition. to day new craft workers for the highly congested market being trained again in the textile college
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in the area. i think it's really important that people learn to make things themselves again, if lead expertise comes back to switzerland or her least that was the higher the hi natalie. it can be small things like mending a zipper or re sewing a him. for many people that's already a challenge, olga owned the not do. a lot of navi, miss lester trained catches on and people start sewing their own clothes again. they'll gain in violet sick from the little appreciate the textiles. more as a work of art, as or as an expression of individuality video with that. because the they'll seamstresses are relatively rare in europe. women are often exploited in low wage countries, and there is still a massive pay gap between men and women. but the debate about climate change could alter, consume the behavior it offered us in manner to hold my generation and future generations can bring about change the mc novelty got on local to produce more sustainably and
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locally. so there is something for every one and every style a few years and it was us v and still it was so finding gibbs of abuse in feldwood . but the information was an from woodson, without the ceo of the school sonia and port shows the trainees 19th and 20th century swiss silk prince from the previous school. this to you? yes, 84 sheet and still he can see various patterns that were printed on silk fabric outside and shut off as they're of a really unique quality tact. but it's almost impossible to do this to day on seats here on ben boucher. these prints were celebrated and the pastor, hard to help me and we don't have so many printing works today, all but there are still ways to produce help from start to finish and switzerland, from industry, and also with ready to wear fashion to market own octagon conflicts yawn, after many, ready to wear companies, the caustics were just too high and they outsourced. i'm boarding house,
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clogged up at the ro, still small companies with between 10 and 30 staff that still produce in switzerland. they know english rights property digitalization offers an opportunity to reduce production costs. with help from machines, the higher wages in europe are less of the fact of this could bring industries back, which will be beneficial. the pandemic highlighted europe's dependency on supply chains. to ensure that silk has a future in europe, the trainees, a learning to get maximum use from the material and create as little waste as possible with digitally controlled laser cutting technology waste is virtually eliminated it. c, dasia south was not re i'll of the miss silk is
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a very valuable material. so i don't want to throw away any scraps on began silly call for example with the sleeves. i so don't i didn't just throw away the fabric. i cut out. then vito, i attached them to this piece as leaves for decoration as a thing, get our dose is his idea. the silk is the natural fiber and the issues of sustainability and being nature friendly, our big topics right now to discuss it at so currently that people are living more consciously. they want to buy less plastic for. that's why i think the silk business in switzerland can definitely grow before the material gets to this stage, it's already been through a lengthy process like a day early and bettina silkworm farm there watching out for the moment of maximum growth. before the caterpillar stock cocooning. they need space and distance to do
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that. ready silkworms gain a lot of weight as they eat, putting on 10000 times they were original white. eventually they reached the maximum size using also make food come. when they get to 5 grams, the larvae start to spend their cocoons. verizon, yes, with us. yeah, we know that they're gaining about one gram per day. right now. am i to morrow or the day after the 1st caterpillar will start spinning it's cooking t. s that i'll punch been as long as the caterpillars keep gaining weight as they eat everything is fine. but early in between, i had a major setback when they started out in so production for year, octomom fong, federally low salmon beginning blake there to pick the leaves and brought them in
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to the caterpillars. but they got sick and we didn't know why others until we discovered that insecticides had been full. transported through the air and landed on our mulberry leaves loft for foot off the top and off the black that off cuz it stopped really. we picked the leaps, fed them to the caterpillars, and then they died. for miss it's i, ally haines says that it was awful for me because on the one hand we lost i caterpillars, but on the other. got it. it's terrible how insecticides penetrate nature was his heidi ties is not just of silkworms that were if i talked in afterwards, it's true that they are more sensitive. but all kinds of insects are affected on the insect than the ot thing side. that ops, if you like, for me, it was a real eye opener. first of all, that in a long time, when not heading in the right direction, thought what i was long physically optimistic of aches.
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krista, hold the dice, the booth and swiss silk customers choose. they color, then he mixes it especially silver is a demanding fabric for the dye to stick to the thread. kristoff has to add acid and please ensure that the die chemically, bonds to the fabric. mit give all angles. oliver's as a dire. i like all colors and now what i'm personally not so keen on it's brown and for me it's a non color. so he said this thought that all of generally elect strong bright colors. he self install. it too hard. he get loaded up.
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kristof works alone here. he runs one of the few small di, works in switzerland, which suits local, swiss. so produces large di works, do not accept this small orders, kill young, sped jolly sheep food claim. i specialize in small quantities fuel and that's what swiss, so kansas had alt lane and i so they're very happy that i can die small quantities for them at all. does he to lead declined many fat. he could lose his pipe at all this he thought i'm fine. show all the silkworms are so fine when you have them in your hands, it's awful. it feels very pleasant to hold them. he thornton swallow up
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to 24 days of feeding the caterpillars have had enough their bodies signal that they have sufficient energy and material to into patient and spin mccracken. each individual silkworm is placed by hand into its new hun since the so produces only have to look after the caterpillars intensively for a month. sorry, culture makes for a good site line. ah, of it is for consists for 2, but i getting ready to cocoon. now, so when they start searching for a spot like this one, your dog, all that isn't it, said aki, they're very agile. which i like to same begins here. all shines. i start spinning
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quickly to fees and i don't lose too much silk thread events when they start to former cocoon, straight away. instead of searching. that's really great. on the, on the rear and all the others will all be in their little boxes in the next few hours. in that case, since i'm and finally, i'm losing patient halting thoughts, task cotton coup. ah, ah, ah, the results. $12000.00 caterpillar's spin, almost 4 killers of rural silk, one. and that makes 40 square meters, a fabric which wendy and bettina can sell for about $3200.00 euros. that gives them an hourly wage. around 23 years. more than many farmers and per hour.
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ah. the cocoon is hardened by the caterpillar. dried out saliva. the threads softens in hot water. the people inside is killed by the heat. the cocoon is unwound on a so called dicola machine, which li imported from india. he learned to operate this machine in india, a craft long, forgotten in europe. once booley has wound the straight on to the bobbin, his work is done. the
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nova i and co author, given each cocoon, has about 0.3 grams of silk it off the length of the silk thread varies between 600 meters and a 2 kilometer said on friday. the 8th of this is to thumbs speed. you got this all of these elements coming together to drive the individual cocoons rance, feeding into one well enough all there. and then there's still a thread on the bobbin and i'll put on the account for all cool excuses. after all, the hard work with the trees, the caterpillars and drying it out, even though it's a uniquely wonderful home at the moment.
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the freeport system, a world wide network of duty, free high security warehouses. what stephanie? how is it stored? is it cleared through customs who control effects or is there types of asian, a legal loophole for tax evaders? nothing more than just temporary storage. secluded treasures. in 15 minutes on d. w. eco, india. how can a country's economy grow in harmony with its people and the environment when there are doers? who look at the bigger picture? india, a country that faces many challenges and whose people are striving to create
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a sustainable future clever projects from europe and india. eco india 90 minutes on d w ah ah, there's a dw, live from berlin, russia launches a new round of missile attacks against ukraine. several people are killed as moscow's attacks, knockout power in many areas. the strikes come after explosions and add bases deep inside russia. also on the program the show of solidarity in iran.

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