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tv   Close up  Deutsche Welle  December 6, 2022 10:15am-10:46am CET

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at a quick reminder about top stories, russia has launched a new wave of missile strikes against ukraine after explosions, that air bases deep inside russian territory. there's been no immediate claim of responsibility for the boss. moscow says it's investigating the cold and it's not laid up in the pressure against the iranian regime. shopkeepers and truck drivers have joined a 3 day nationwide strike called by protest. want to see iran's leaders out of mixed sustainable fashion. and so once i'm painful and sarah kelly will have your news thinks about the world cup in baton. exciting in sports and tim version included because we are here for you with reports and background
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information about the football to biggest everything you knew about the 2022 world cup. and he w these hungry silkworms are eating their way to sustainable fashion for switzerland. their owners, the venturing into semi culture breeding. silkworms for swiss silk. by south it's the impulse to me, it's really fascinating to watch the whole cycle develop both to call. you really see that in such a short time with any other agricultural products or in court sites in call with the idea is to produce home spun sustainable fashion in switzerland. it could avoid the huge carbon footprint caused by importing silk from china. chauffeured. thus in monica, and i hope my generation and future generations can bring about change to produce
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small, sustainably and locally. ashton ah, it really came up with the idea of breaking silkworms, which are actually caterpillars, the lawful form of the domestic silk moth. the lab space he needed for his experiment. it was rather testing for his family at 1st. so thick of the yellow, he said t ashanti von. but he was bearing his silkworms in our bathroom, over the bath top in their own, my own for our daughter and i, well, we didn't find it that practical phone biskin now your rock dish who only and bettina resolve the conflict,
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my movie miss silkwood tries to the garage, the humble origin of many a grand project. always been a long period. oh, i'm a foreigner, but i have no land. this is not always a problem right? on the throne. so i decided to focus on special cultures where you can produce a lot on very little land phone valley health 60, i'm also a textiles engineer. so so grams are a good match for those. is that that was partly out of necessity, but it's also fascinating. so it's really fascinating to watch the whole cycle develop. you rarely see that in such a short time with any other agricultural product falls to comb. i didn't want to talk to him, so it was a combination of necessity and fascination of the fiscal of anna mitchell. dish. no paint is tied on this false timothy. ah,
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this is the sound of 12000 hungry caterpillar is munching. ah, the idea of making money from theory culture was a bold one, especially in switzerland. silk is actually from china where production originated thousands of years ago, bettina and really had to face resistance from a powerful knobby at 1st form that picks the but all sure volunteer reactions from the textile industry. we're mostly negative that i, it's crazy. it will never work, it's just a hobby of it all, but it was mostly negative. fabi a mic up if all but over time, their attitudes changed. not to listen to that, of course, where nature were very niche doing this, but we have revived the idea of making silk in switzerland. again, not every one is talking about it, but some are lemons. rip it off. the silk yarn they spin is destined for the
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world's catwalks fashion designer raphael quito. a star in switzerland is a strong advocate of swiss silk in the textile industry. he's showcasing his collection at the swiss design awards in basil, the leading national design, competition for years. rafael hunted down the best materials in the archives, museums, and companies. he decided on switch the silk ma settling my to the i to led by the silk is a great material to work with it. and it has something special compared to other fabrics. but said that it, i prefer to work with natural fibers, materials, what up cycle all materials and leftovers on it or did outside connect? i'd love to yada leftovers in 2019. rafael won the award for fashion and textile design at the swiss design
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awards. sustainability has become an essential criterion. visit i am, does i? this is a silk shirt. it's vintage silk produced. i switzerland and everything has died by hand on that. went on good. bad. it's gorgeous. there still from china is out of the question for him. thousands of kilometers of transport means a huge carbon footprint. as a top designer is given swiss silk a name. but the silk has also given him a night. hasn't been looks of as he that dies it's. i was lucky enough to win several different words and i was able to set up my own studio and zurich on that. some basically these, they collect this collection, for instance, was developed during the pandemic. so this is the 1st time i've been able to display it live on that that's big enough because i also made this video to present
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my work on film at my la, because there were no opportunities to hold an exhibition or fashion show, right? so i know stella that i knew that so, so to martin mulberry tree leaves at the silkworms faithful food experiments facing them. other types of plant have all failed. the mulberry tree is robust, but there is one challenge the side that all can st. so silkworms are so sensitive because they've been specially brand for thousands of years purely to create silk for a whole conserves the toys sensitive to insecticides, of course, but also to fungicides and other chemicals. this is claude form that they like to caterpillar sick and kill them and all that on than optical tier one k machine
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teeth on did open. this is also why, sorry, culture is not possible in many places for all, for only under difficult conditions and open av talk because insecticides can drifting along. alice how from large apple on, which is for example, both girls not for long la. can these chemicals settle on the mulberry leaves? we harvest the leaves with him in the silkworms. can't say that in the play that on decides that off that and cranking silkworms, voracious creatures it takes $450.00 kilos of laundry leads to raise his $12000.00 silkworms. it really often has to bring in new supplies. how many of the earlier neighbors are traditional farmers, such as peter bomb up his cows produce milk for cheese, a classic swiss product. but unlike many of their colleagues,
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he understood the sil project right from the start. ny and man, mommy, he thought he could pretty from a dollar. if you talk to historians, you will hear that circus produce in switzerland many years ago. i was silkworms all thought out of italian that out belong day for theda. angelique and right go dueli has founded a suit, produces association called sweet silk. so far, 11 production sites in switzerland have joined the association. he hopes the project who cry so they see bodies. it was important for swiss sales. i sent a regional example which would extend beyond switzerland, you know, and include nearby european contrast in all of it is where a complete supply chain could be. bill thompson, the friday i met complet, they've had all items k delve. this will mean finance transport than usual in these
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times of globalized trying stalls where sell comes from china or brazil, side in the home to of 30 small plane tickets. and i cannot comp of the policy been calling mr. sweet ami, we are trying to save the wow. direct invert. we'll turn the whole system around here because it is in $45.00 small niche. so that's not our aspiration of itself. is that on scroll up a bit, conan buys, but we can set an example by producing self locally to avoid greenhouse gases problem. so wow, good. i policy garza from i ah, ali is meeting of pharma in the picturesque simon top valley in the canton of been china managed to defend it. so production monopoly for many centuries. in fact,
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it was a state secret which was systematically prevented from spreading. it wasn't until $550.00 to idea that silkwood eggs finally reached curate. so, so this is danny griffin. i is interested in suit production to young. it is not sure whether it will work with his business suite. the thing to have is with them out of out of well if, if they did of all the 1st step has worked out the tiny eggs with the size of poppy seeds have hatched while a slot in them. on some b, all i saw a picture in a biology book and i said to my wife, hey, that would be something different to something new like this noise. and that's how it happened. and that's the reason we decided to try it out. now think so, different room to see if our small house vivian,
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ah unix 1st attempt at siri culture has would be the issue is now finding a space to ria, more than $10000.00 silk lens. the garage is occupied with the co shit be an option . ah ah, the stall here is the line for the gal shad here in times of space would be really good. good mark on i. in fact you could just put a breeding tray down here like shit. he had more hung a detainer, but you need a constant temperature of 2122 degrees celsius. i'm. it's wants excited to cut off of society. it's the one thing. the other is the hygiene issue. hawkins is a cow shad suitable it was mr. mottos copy of that, you have to try and out it the deeper the 3rd thing is access. how easily can you
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get there to feed the caterpillars more than that open? no. first, my recommendation is to always have a breeding room where you can go in your pajamas before bed homo, and bring in fresh leaves if necessary. you can call mo, had potter control. it's the easiest and most efficient way to say fits. it sometimes lost faith from the noise or blow from errors kind and in terms of the workflow, it wouldn't be such a problem with or to inspect guest. it's always a bit more difficult in the evening just before you go to bed. when you're tired and you still have to attend to the animals of it, but it's the same in the winter when a cat is born, it doesn't care that you want to go to bed broke the shuttle. and that is still the name of the jenny could have to plant at least a $120.00 mulberry trees, a silver production to be worth while ago from theater. so that ava via his farm is at an elevation of either a 1000 meters. janik wants to know whether the mulberry trays could survive the
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winter. if at the moment that there wasn't many in it for the mid of that thought through mccorkle as a diva, i'll just keep your body there. different varieties of mulberry tree or variety. i would suggest is the one we have now fort lockwood pursued. they can tolerate up to minus $25.00 degrees celsius in the winter on ticket all 25th rate is meet them b o . u nina group mans livelihood also depends
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on silk. she creates fashion, fruits with silk and other local raw materials you, nina, trained as an engineer in the construction sector. it decided to move away from building sites to the fine fabrics of fashion. became distortion cough was i went to her, i went to a store to buy something and i was always disappointed. but the quality was so down that i wanted about the price with cannon. i could buy a t shirt for fi, frank failures. but how does not work, and oh, i'm done them. i store all these videos about the accident and the ron plaza, gama factory and bangladesh. all these it will fall where so many people died. and i just thought to look at what cost of them for this my, from vision cars her concept is slowly fashion the opposite of
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throw away consumerism. her fashion also sells at higher prices than clothing from asia, than we are called is a tip off. if we produce high quality clothes, we can wear them longer. ice, we are put, that means we produce less weight. and we'll give you that we can even recycle some parts gaping. or we could even composite the silk for example, seagal compost thea. on slide door for the for thank you. i little contribution. we can't even measure it yet. and couldn't that at least at something is lani consists of all. if it's in mind that the idea of slow fashion is catching all after some initial difficulties you, nina found business partners and customers willing to pay the price for sustainability swiss silt from the can't. arnold bern has made its way back to zurich in 1881,
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a silver weaving school was founded here to train specialist workers. however, by the beginning of the 20th century, the swiss silk industry was unable to keep up with international competition. to day new craft workers for the highly congested market being trained again in the textile college in the area. i think it's really important that people learn to make things themselves. again, let expertise comes back to switzerland. ha ha marie. that was the higher the hopefully gay can be small things like mending zipper or re sewing a him for many people that's already a challenge. olga owned the not do. a lot of navi gordon is left. a trend catches on and people start sewing their own clothes again. they'll gain in violet sick
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from dick legal, appreciate the textiles, more as a work of art, as or as an expression of individuality video with that. because the they'll seamstresses are relatively rare in europe. women are often exploited in low wage countries, and there is still a massive pay gap between men and women. but the debate about climate change could alter consumer behavior. hospitals in mine, i cannot, i hope, my generation and future generations can bring about change them, see no haul to get on the low cost to produce more sustainably and locally. so there is something for every one and every style a few years and it was, was fee and still it was so finding gibbs of abuse in feldwood. but the information was an from woodson, with our ceo of the school. sonya and port shows the trainees 19th and 20th century swiss silk prince. from the previous school. this is misty you just say to you for
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she didn't stir. he can see various patterns that were printed on silk fabric outside and shut off as they're of a really unique quality tact. but it's almost impossible to do this to day on seats here on ben boucher. these prints were celebrated and the pastor, hard to help me and we don't have so many printing works today, all but there are still ways to produce help from start to finish and switzerland, from industry, and also with ready to wear fashion to mom and aunt after gone to conflicts yawn i for many ready to wear companies. the costs were just too high and they outsourced . i'm boarding house glock at all. but at the row still small companies with between $10.30 staff that still produce in switzerland. they know english rights product digitalization offers an opportunity to reduce production costs. with help from machines, the higher wages in europe or less of the fact of this could bring industries black, which will be beneficial. the pandemic highlighted europe's dependency on supply
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chains. to ensure that silk has a future in europe, the trainees, a learning to get maximum use from the material and create as little waste as possible with digitally controlled laser cutting technology waste is virtually eliminated it. c, dasia south was not re i'll of the miss. silk is a very valuable material. so i don't want to throw away any scraps on began silly call, for example, with the sleeves. i sewed up, i didn't just throw away the fabric. i cut out then vito, i attached them to this piece as leaves for decoration, as i think it are, those this is ida. the silk is the natural fiber and the issues of sustainability and being nature friendly are big topics right now to discuss it at school. concrete. people are living more consciously. they want to buy less plastic for.
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that's why i think the silk business in switzerland can definitely grow before the material gets to this stage, it's already been through a lengthy process like an early and botanist silkworm farm there watching out for the moment of maximum growth. before the caterpillar stock cocooning. they need space and distance to do that. got silkworms gain a lot of weight as they eat, putting on 10000 times their original white. eventually, they reached the maximum size one usage. also mit food come. when they get to 5 grams,
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the larvae start to spend their cocoons, risen yet as yet we know that they're gaining about one gram per day. right now, am i to morrow or the day after the 1st caterpillar will start spinning it's cocoon city. instead of behind spinning as long as the caterpillars keep gaining weight as they eat, everything is fine. but early in between, i had a major setback when they started out in so production for a hot among fong, federal, low salmon beginning blake there to pick the leaves and brought them into the caterpillars. but they got sick and we didn't know why others until we discovered that insecticides had been full. transported through the air and landed on our mulberry leaves loft for foot off the top and off the black that off because it felt really we picked the leaps, fed them to the caterpillars and then they died. permission title i have. it was awful for me because on the one hand we lost i caterpillars, but on the other,
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it's terrible how insecticides penetrate nature. what is the highest is not just the silkworms that we're talking through, that they are more sensitive. but all kinds of insects are. thank on the day in sexton the ot thing side, that oxygen lifetime for me, it was a real eye opener. first of all, that in a long time, when not heading in the right direction, thought what i was longest mist optimistic, vixon, blue christoph hoby dice, the booth and swiss silk customers choose they color. then he mixes it especially to and so it is a demanding fabric for the dye to stick to the thread. kristoff has to add acid
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and please ensure that the die chemically, bonds to the fabric thing . mit give all a hall effort as a dire. i like all colors and now what i'm personally not so keen on it's brown, me for me. it's a non color. he salish thought that all of generally are like strong bright colors . he thought he thought he thought he get loaded up. kristof works alone. here. he runs one of the few small di, works in switzerland, which sits local swiss, so produces large di works, do not accept this small orders, kill young, sped jelly, sheep food claim. i specialize in small quantities,
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fuel and that's what swiss, so cancer. and i'll claim him as other very happy that i can die small quantities for them for all does his to lead. he claim me fair, he can move move. despite that all for this is the thaw on fame. joel, the silkworms are so fine. when you have them in your hands soft or it feels very pleasant to hold them. t thornton, hey it's while i, after $24.00 days of feeding the caterpillars have had enough their bodies signal that they have sufficient energy and material to enter pew patient and spin, mccracken each individual silkworm is placed by hand into its me hun since the so produces only have to look after the caterpillars intensively for
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a month. siri culture makes for a good sideline. ah . of it is because his thoughts are getting ready to cocoon now. so when they start searching for a spot like this one, your dog. oh. that isn't it said ocoee. they're very agile, which i like to seen. begin see at all shines. they start spinning quickly to fees and they don't lose too much silk thread events when they start to former cocoon, straight away instead of searching. that's really great. on the, on the rear and all the others will all be in their little boxes in the next few hours. in that case, since i'm and finally, i'm losing patience haunting thought house cocking. ah, ah,
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ah, the result? $12000.00 caterpillar's spin, almost full kilo's of rural silk. one and that makes 40 square meters of fabric which a d and bettina can sell for about $3200.00 euros. that gives them an hourly wage around $23.00 euros. more than many farmers and per hour. ah . the cocoon is hardened by the catalyst, dried out saliva. the threads softens in hot water. the pupa inside is killed by the heat.
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the cocoon is unwound on a so called dicola machine, which early imported from india. he learned to operate this machine in india, a craft long, forgotten in europe. once dueli has wound the straight onto the bobbin, his work is done. nova, i'm cold. oh, don't give him each cocoon has about 0.3 grams of silk. i had all the length of the silk thread varies between 600 meters and a 2 kilometer settled. right? you don't need
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this to thumb speed. you got this. all of these elements coming together to drive the individual cocoon trans, feeding into one will enough all there. and then there's still threat on the bobbin and i'll put on the roku, excuse me. after all, the hard worked with the trees, the caterpillars and drying it out, even though it's a uniquely wonderful moment. mm hm. and then again, they get all the harvesters are immigrants, dolock is like everything you enjoy, eating at home with your family was harvested by people who are being exploited. and then i guess we're free and we're gonna need to. uh huh. can we can keep doing
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what we're doing, and that's why a green revolution is absolutely necessary. europe revealed the future is being determined. now. our documentary theory will show you how people, companies and countries are rethinking everything, and making major changes. europe revealed this week on d. w ah, this week in world story in somalia, it's historic throat is killing children in columbia.

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