tv Close up Deutsche Welle December 6, 2022 10:30pm-11:01pm CET
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body and soul houses that dang, leaders can construct are more than just buildings. he is the son of jewish holocaust survivors. i watching that i was able to bill to jeffrey's in berlin. his architecture is a celebration of democracy and peace and architect of emotions. daniel starts december 25th on d. w or these hungry silkworms are eating their way to sustainable fashion for switzerland, their owners, the venturing into semi culture breeding. silkworms fists with silk bies. i'll fix the impulse to me. it's really fascinating to watch the whole cycle develop all to
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call. you really see that in such a short time with any other agricultural product to war and quote, the sites in calling with the idea is to produce home spun, sustainable fashion in switzerland. it could avoid the huge carbon footprint caused by importing silk from china, which offered those in maniquan otto and i hope my generation and future generations can bring about change to produce more sustainably. and locally, ashton pool ah really came up with the idea of grading silkworms which are actually caterpillars.
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the laughing form of the domestic silk moss, the lab space he needed for his experiment. it was rather testing for his family at 1st. so thick of the yellow. okay, said t ashanti von but he was bearing his silkworms in our bathroom, over the bath tub in there, on my own for our daughter and i, well we didn't kind at that practical phone biskin nie ya. roc dish who ali and bettina resolve the conflict. my movie nest silkwood trays to the garage, the humble origin of many a grand project. there always been a long period. oh, i'm a foreigner, but i have no land. this is not always a problem right on the throne. so i decided to focus on special cultures where you can produce a lot on very little land forms i the hell fixing. i'm also a textiles engineer. so silkworms are a good match for those. is that that was partly out of necessity,
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but it's also fascinating inside it really fascinating to watch the whole cycle develop. you rarely see that in such a short time with any other agricultural product falls to comb. i didn't want the tough isn't. so it was a combination of necessity and fascination of the fiscal of anna mitchell fish north end of the sky on fish, false tomato. ah, this is the sound of 12000 hungry caterpillars munching. the idea of making money from syria culture was a bold one, especially in switzerland. silk is actually from china where production originated thousands of years ago, bettina and really had to face resistance from a powerful knobby at 1st on the pick steel. but all sher warranty reactions from the textile industry were mostly negative. that i,
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it's crazy. it will never work. it's just a hobby of it all, but it was mostly negative. 40 and make up, if all but over time their attitudes changed. not to listen that of course, where nature were very niche doing this, but we have revived the idea of making silk in switzerland. again, not every one is talking about it, but some are lemons. rip it off. the silk yarn they spin is destined for the world's catwalks fashion designer raphael quito. a star in switzerland is a strong advocate of swiss silk in the textile industry. he's showcasing his collection at the swiss design awards in basil, the leading national design competition for years. rafael hunted down the best materials in the archives, museums and companies. it decided on swiss silk my
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little in my to the i'll to lead by to silk as a great material to work with it. and it has something special compared to other fabrics. and that is, i prefer to work with natural fibers materials. what to up cycle materials and leftovers on it or did outside. i'd love to jada leftovers in 2019 rockdale won the award for fashion and textile design at this with design awards. sustainability has become an essential criterion that is by i named as i then this is a silk shirt and it's a vintage silk produced. i switzerland and everything has died by hand on the elephant on get back. it's gorgeous. death still from china is out of the question for him. thousands of kilometers of transport means a huge carbon footprint. as a top design,
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now he's given swiss silk a name. but the silk is also given him a night. has it been, looks of as he that dies it? i was lucky enough to win several different hundreds and i was able to set up my own studio and zurich on that. some basically these that collect this collection, for instance, was developed during the pandemic. so this is the 1st time i've been able to display it live on that that's big enough because i also made this video to present my work on film at my la, because there were no opportunities to hold an exhibition or fashion show, right? so i know stella that i knew that so, so to martin mulberry tree leaves at the silkworms faithful food experiments, feeding them other types of plant have all failed. the mulberry tree is robust,
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but there is one challenge the side that all contained. so silkworms are so sensitive because they've been specially brand for thousands of years purely to create silk hawk. it serves the toys sensitive to insecticides, of course, but also to fungicides and other chemicals. this is claude form that they like to caterpillars sick and kill them, and all that on than optical children came should teeth on did open. this is also why, sorry, culture is not possible in many places for all, for only under difficult conditions that open off talk because insecticides can drifting along. that is how from large apple watches, for example, bhaskar olson, op for long block. and these chemicals settle on the mulberry leaves. we harvest the leaves. the silkworms can't say that in the play. the on the side that off that and cropping silkworms, a voracious creatures. it takes $450.00 kilos of mulberry leads to raise his
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$12000.00 silkworms. it really often has to bring in new supplies. how many of italy's neighbors a traditional farmers such as peter bomb up his cows, produce milk for cheese, a classic swiss product. but unlike many of their colleagues, he understood the sil project right from the start. ny and man mamma, he thought he could pretty hotel. if you talk to historians. he will hear that circus produce and switzerland many years ago. i was silkworms all thought out of a titan that out belong day for lisa. hong gallagher i go dueli has founded a suit, produces association called sweet silk. so far,
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11 production sites in switzerland have joined the association. he hopes the project, who cry to this same bodies. it was important for swiss sales. i sent a regional example which would extend beyond switzerland, fuel and include nearby european contrast in all of it and where a complete supply chain could be built up. in the friday, i met complet. they've had all items cut down. this will mean finance transport than usual in these times have globalized trying stalls. the where sell comes from china or brazil, side and home to i'll 3rd is more pain distance. okay. not com for the cross even call. mr. suite army, we are trying to save the wow direct and we'll turn the whole system around here because it is in fort nice small niche. so that's not our aspiration really stop is that on screwed up with canon buys, but we can set an example by producing self locally to avoid greenhouse gases and
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problem. ready so that i posed garza for my ah, ali is meeting a farmer in the picturesque sim, entire valley in the canton of ben. china managed to defend it, so production monopoly the many centuries. in fact, it was a state secret which was systematically prevented from spreading. it wasn't until 552 a d, that silkwood eggs finally reached hewitt. oh, so for this danny griffin, i is interested in suit production to young. it is not sure whether it will work with his business suite. the thing to have is with him out of out of way leverage
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they did of all the 1st step has worked out the tiny eggs with the size of poppy seeds have hatched a slot in alternate b o. i saw a picture in a biology book and i said to my wife, hey, that would be something different to something new because lot of this noise and that's how it happened. and that's the reason we decided to try it out now, sink. so they put on to suit us mallos vivian. ah, unix 1st attempt at siri culture has would be the issue is now finding a space to ria, more than $10000.00 silk. once the garage is occupied with the co, shit be an option with
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this goal here. is the line for the gal shad here in times of space would be really good. good michael. i'm falk mac address but a breathing tray down. he said he had more on a detail but we need a constant temperature of 2122 degrees celsius. i'm frantic science on to get out of society is the one thing. the other is the hygiene issue. hawkins is a cow shad suitable dismiss tomatoes for p and you have to tried out it. the 3rd thing is access. how easily can you get there to feed the caterpillars in that open or face? my recommendation is to always have a breathing room where you can go in your pajamas before bad home and bring in fresh leaves, if necessary. in common mo, had parlour, confirm it. it's the easiest and most efficient way to say if it's in the sunshine from spirit, from the north, are blow from hardware to skype. and in terms of the workflow, it wouldn't be such a problem in order to inspect guest. it's always a bit more difficult in the evening just before you go to bed. when you're tired and you still have to attend to the animals of it. but it's the same in the winter
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when a cat is born, it doesn't care that you want to go to bed rock, they stop to inspect this to the knee. a jenny could have to plant at least a $120.00 mulberry trees. a silver production to be worth while ago from vienna that ever, via his farm is at an elevation of either a 1000 meters. janik wants to know whether the mulberry trays could survive the winter if at the moment that there was an aide in it from the mid of up so that the mccorkle up diva, i'll just keep their body under a different varieties of mulberry tree variety. i would suggest is the one we have now fort lockwood pursued. they can tolerate up to minus $25.00 degrees celsius in the winter wants it could alter the rate of meet them, be unique
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group mans livelihood also depends on silk. she creates fashion flips with silk and other local raw materials you, nina, trained as an engineer in the construction sector. it decided to move away from building sites to the fine fabrics of fashion. because i'm distortion cultures. i whenever i went to a store to buy something and i was always disappointed with the quality. so down
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that i wanted about the price. if canon, i could buy a t shirt for fi, frank failure raise. but how does not work? and oh, i'm done that my store all these videos about the accident and the ron plaza, garmen factory and bangladesh. all these at 15 where so many people died. and i just thought to look at what cost them for this life invasion caused her concept is slowly fashion the opposite of throw away consumerism. her fashion also sales at higher prices than clothing from asia than we are called is a tip off. if we produce high quality clothes, we can wear them longer. i will put that means we produce less waste and give you that we can even recycle some parts gaping. or we could even composite the silk. for example, seagal compress the on the light. all that, all the thank you i little contribution. hm. we can't even measure it. yes. and can,
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but at least it something is not consist up or if it's in mind that the idea of slow fashion is catching all after some initial difficulties you nina found business partners and customers willing to pay the price for sustainability swiss silt from the can't arnold bern has made its way back to zurich in 1881, a silver weaving school was founded here to train specialist workers. however, by the beginning of the 20th century, the swiss silk industry was unable to keep up with international competition. to day new craft workers for the highly congested market being trained again in the textile college,
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i think seriously, i think it's really important and people learn to make things themselves again if lead expertise comes back to switzerland or at least that was the higher the hi natalie, it can be small things like mending a zipper or re sewing a him for many people that's already a challenge, although the guy owned the not do a lot of navita call me back, a trained catches on and people start sewing their own clothes again. they'll gain in violet sick from the liberal, appreciate the textiles, more as a work of art, as or as an expression of individuality. vin, with that behind the veil, seamstresses are relatively rare in europe. women are often exploited in low wage countries, and there is still a massive pay gap between men and women. but the debate about climate change could alter consumer behavior. is offered those in mine. i cannot, i hold my generation and future generations can bring about change them,
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see novelty, got on local to produce more sustainably and locally. so there is something for every one and every style or if you didn't, it was us v and steal it, us. so finding gibbs of a within feldwood, but the infamous and of anton woodson with our ceo of the school. sonya and port shows the trainees and 19th and 20th century swiss silk prince from the previous school. this to you. yes, 84 sheet and still he can see various patterns that were printed on silk fabric outside and shut off as they're of a really unique quality tact. but it's almost impossible to do this to day on seats here and in boucher. these prints were celebrated and the pastor, hard to help me and we don't have so many printing works to day, all but there are still ways to produce. so from start to finish and switzerland, i mean to think and also with ready to where fashion to martin or octagon to conflicts yawn. after many, ready to wear companies. the costs were just too high and they outsourced. i'm
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boarding house clark at all. but at the roast or small companies with between $10.30 staff that still produce in switzerland. do you know english rights property? digitalization offers an opportunity to reduce production costs. with help from machines, the higher wages in europe or less of the fact of this could bring industries back, which will be beneficial. the pandemic highlighted europe's dependency on supply chains. to ensure that silk has a future in europe, the trainees, a learning to get maximum use from the material and create as little waste as possible. with digitally controlled laser cutting technology waste is virtually eliminated
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it. c, dasia c about was not re, i'll of the miss. silk is a very valuable material. so i don't want to throw away any scraps. ethan began selling call, for example, with the sleeves. i. so don't i didn't just throw away the fabric. i cut out then vito, i attached them to this piece as leaves for decoration, as i think it are, those is his idea. the silk is the natural fiber and the issues of sustainability and being nature friendly are big topics right now. this does it. so currently that people are living more consciously, they want to buy less plastic for that's why i think the silk business in switzerland can definitely grow before the material gets to this stage, it's already been through a lengthy process like a day early and bettina silkworm farm there watching out for the moment of maximum growth before the caterpillar stock cocooning. they need space and distance to do
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that. silkworms gain a lot of weight as they eat, putting on 10000 times they were original white. eventually, they reached the maximum size. one uses also make food come when they get to 5 grams, the larvae start to spend their cocoons. verizon, yet with as yet. we know that they're gaining about one grandpa day right now. am i to morrow or the day after the 1st caterpillar will start spinning, it's cooking, it's easier said i'll punch been as long as the caterpillars keep gaining weight as they eat everything is fine. but early in between, i had a major setback when they started out in so production for years, hopped among fong, federals low salmon beginning blake there to pick the leaves and brought them in to
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the caterpillars. but they got sick and we didn't know why others until we discovered that insecticides had been full. transported through the air and landed on our mulberry leaves loft for foot off the top and off the black that up because it felt really we picked the leaps, fed them to the caterpillars, and then they died. for miss it's i, ally haines says that it was awful for me because on the one hand we lost i caterpillars, but on the other. got it. it's terrible how insecticides penetrate nature was his heidi ties is not just of silkworms that were if i talked in afterwards, it's true that they are more sensitive. but all kinds of insects are affect um on the insect than the ot thing side that ok, so fill it out for me. it was a real eye opener. first of all that in a long time, when not heading in the right direction. thought what i'm long, physically optimistic of eggs.
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kristof hoby dies the woof and swiss silk customers, choose they color. then he mixes it especially silver is a demanding fabric for the dye to stick to the thread. kristoff has to add acid this ensures that the die chemically, bonds to the fabric. mit give all angles. oliver's as a dire. i like all colors and now what i'm personally not so keen on it's brown and for me it's a non color. so he salish thought that all of generally a like strong bright colors. he thought he thought he thought he get loaded up.
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kristof works alone. here. he runs one of the few small di, works in switzerland, which sits local swiss, so produces large di works, do not accept this small orders. hey, young, sped jolly sheep, food claimant. i specialize in small quantities fuel and that's what swiss, so cause a hint all claim. so they're very happy that i can die small quantities for them at all. thus he is to lead, he claiming that he could lose his site, not all the same to so fine. joel, the silkworms are so fine when you have them in your hands,
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it's awful. it feels very pleasant to hold them. t thornton. hey, it's walt up to $24.00 days of feeding the caterpillars have had enough their bodies signal that they have sufficient energy and material to into patient and spin nick akin. each individual silk lamb is placed by hand into it's me, hon. since the so produces only have to look after the caterpillars intensively for a month. siri culture makes for a good sideline. ah . of in his begins his thoughts about getting ready to cocoon now. so when they start searching for a spot like this one, you thought, oh that isn't it said okey, they're very agile,
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which i like to seen. begin see at all shines. they start spinning quickly to fees and i don't lose too much silk thread of it when they start to form a cocoon straight away. instead of searching. that's really great. on the alt and red and all the others will all be in their little boxes in the next few hours. in that case, since i'm then finally, i'm losing patience haunting a thought house cotton. ah, the result, $12000.00 caterpillars spin almost full kilo's of rural silk. woven that makes 40 square meters of fabric. which you, andy and bettina can sell for about 3200 euros. that gives them an hourly wage around $23.00 euros. more than many farmers and per hour.
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ah . the cocoon is hardened by the cat. dried out saliva. the threads softens in hot water. the pupa inside is killed by the heat. the cocoon is unwound on a so called dicola machine, which li imported from india. he learned to operate this machine in india, a craft long, forgotten in europe. once lily has wound the straight on to the bobbin, his work is done. nova,
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i'm cold. oh, don't give him each cocoon has about 0.3 grams of so kind of the length of the silk thread varies between 600 meters and 2 kilometer said on friday. we donate this to thumbs. feel about it. these are all of these elements coming together to slide the individual cocoons rance, feeding into one full enough all there. and then there's so thread on the bobbin and i'll put on there for all cool excuses. after all the hard work with the trees, the caterpillars and drying it out, even though it's a uniquely wonderful home at the moment.
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the 77 percent. to find some water in africa is being waged with weapons, countryside residence god. what few results is they have finding solutions if a challenge for what experts say is due to an absence of climate policy, our efforts are actually been nicholas lake. what more can we do right now other than have images? cities suppose is the 77 percent in 30 minutes on d w. oh, this is correct. this is most dangerous lunch. but at night, neighborhood shows it's real potential. sina platinum down the green cinema to the
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people united. the social initiative down to during the corona pandemic, and has become an important part of the community over 3090 minutes on d. w. ah, what secrets lie behind these walls discover new adventures in 360 degrees and explore fascinating world heritage sites. d, w world heritage. 360, get the app now. ah, this is d w news, and these are our top stories. reports from russia suggest ukraine could be stepping up its cross border attacks against strategic targets. the governor of the coast region in russia says a drone attacked and airfield.
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