tv Close up Deutsche Welle December 7, 2022 8:30am-9:00am CET
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ah, houses that then leaders can construct or more than just buildings. he is the son of jewish holocaust survivors. i watching that i was able to bill to just remember his architecture is a celebration of democracy and peace and architect of emotions. daniel starts december 25th on d, w. ah, these hungry silkworms are eating their way to sustainable fashion for switzerland, their own as of venturing into semi culture breeding. silkworms fists with silk bies. i'll fix the impulse to me. it's really fascinating to watch the whole cycle develop also to call really see that in such
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a short time with any other agricultural product to war include the sites in color with the idea is to produce home spun, sustainable fashion in switzerland. it could avoid the huge carbon footprint caused by importing silk from china. chauffeured. thus in maniquan out, you and i hope my generation and future generations can bring about change to produce more sustainably and locally, ashton oh ah, billy came up with the idea of breaking silkworms, which are actually caterpillars, the larval full of the domestic silk, moth. the lab space,
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he needed his experiment. it was rather testing for his family at 1st. so think of the yellow, he said t ashanti von, but he was bearing his silkworms in our bathroom, over the bath tub in there, on my own for our daughter and i, well we didn't find it that practical phone biskin nie ya. roc dish who ali and bettina resolve the conflict, my movie miss silkwood tries to the garage, the humble origin of many a grand project. there always been a long period. oh, i'm a foreigner, but i have no land. this is not always a problem right. on the through, so i decided to focus on special cultures where you can produce a lot on very little land for valley health fixing. i'm also a textiles engineer. so silkworms are a good match for those. is that that was partly out of necessity, but it's also fascinating competency. it's really fascinating to watch the whole
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cycle develop. you rarely see that in such a short time with any other agricultural product, falls to comb. i didn't want to talk to him, so it was a combination of necessity and fascination of the fiscal of anna mitchell, tish north dentist. kyle: on fish, false tomato, ah, this is the sound of 12000 hungry caterpillars munching. the idea of making money from syria culture was a bold one, especially in switzerland. silk is actually from china, where production originated thousands of years ago. bettina and really had to face resistance from a powerful knobby at 1st on the pick steel. but all sher warranty reactions from the textile industry were mostly negative. that i, it's crazy. it will never work. it's just
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a hobby off it off. it was mostly negative. fabi a mic up if all but over time, their attitudes changed. not to listen to that, of course, where nature were very niche doing this, but we have revived the idea of making silk in switzerland. again, not every one is talking about it, but some are limb in the trip it off. the silk yarn they spin is destined for the world's catwalks fashion designer raphael kito, a star in switzerland is a strong advocate of swiss silk in the textile industry. he's showcasing his collection at the swiss design awards in basil, the leading national design, competition for years. rafael hunted down the best materials in the archives, museums and companies. he decided on switch the silk melissa tale my, to the eyes to lead by the silk is
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a great material to work with it and it has something special compared to other fabrics that said that i prefer to work with natural fibers materials. what up cycle all materials and leftovers on it or did outside connect? i'd love to yada leftovers in 2019. rafael won the award for fashion and textile design at the swiss design awards. sustainability has become an essential criterion. visit i and and as i, then this is a silk shirt. it's vintage silk produced. i switzerland and everything has died by hand on that. went on good. bad. it's gorgeous. there still from china is out of the question for him. thousands of kilometers of transport means a huge carbon footprint. as the top designer is given swiss fil a name.
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but the silk has also given him a night. hadn't been, looks of, as he did guys it's, i was lucky enough to win several different hundreds, and i was able to set up my own studio and zurich on that some vice with these they collect this collection, for instance, was developed during the pandemic. so this is the 1st time i've been able to display it live on that that's big enough because i also made this video to present my work on film at my la, because there were no opportunities to hold an exhibition or fashion show, right? so i know stella that i knew that so so to martin mulberry tree leaves at the ssl forms faithful food experiments facing them. other types of plant have all failed. the mulberry tree is robust,
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but there is one challenge the side that all consent. so silkworms are so sensitive because they've been specially brand for thousands of years purely to create silk for a whole conserves the for sensitive to insecticides, of course, but also to fungicides and other chemicals. this is claude form that they like to caterpillar sick and kill them and all that on than optical tier one k mission teeth on did open. this is also why, sorry, culture is not possible in many places for all, for only under difficult conditions and open off talk because insecticides can drifting along. i was how from large apple on, which is for example, bhaskar olson op for long la, can these chemicals settle on the mulberry leaves? we harvest the leaves in the silkworms. can't say that in the play. the aunt decides that all that and cropping silkworms, voracious creatures, it takes $450.00 kilos of laundry leads to raise his $12000.00 silkworms. it really
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often has to bring in new supplies. how many of italy's neighbors are traditional farmers, such as peter bomb up, his cows produce milk for cheese, a classic swiss product. but unlike many of their colleagues, he understood the silk project right from the start, nie a man mom mate. he thought he could pretty from a dollar. if you talk to historians, you will hear that circus produced in switzerland many years ago. i was silkworms all thought out of italian that out belong day for theda. angelina, can i go? dueli has founded a suit, produces association called sweet silk. so far, 11 production science in switzerland have joined the association. he hopes the
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project. oh gra. so they say bodies. it was important for swiss sales. i sent a regional example which would extend beyond switzerland hill and include nearby european contrast in all of it is where a complete supply chain could be. bill thompson, the friday i met complet. they've had all items k 12. this will mean finance transport than usual in these times of globalized trying shenise stalls where sell comes from china or brazil, side and home to i'll 3rd is more pain dickerson. okay. not com for the cross even called mitchell. see tommy, we are trying to save the wow. direct invert. we'll turn the whole system around here because it is in for a nice small knish. so that's not our aspiration of itself. is that on scroll up a bit, conan buys, but we can set an example by producing self locally to avoid greenhouse gases and problems. a wall dipoles garza from out
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ah, dueli is meeting a farmer in the picturesque simon top valley in the canton. and then china managed to defend it. so production monopoly, the many centuries. in fact, it was a state secret which was systematically prevented from spreading. it wasn't until 552 a d that silkwood eggs finally reached curate or so with that. with jenny griffin, i is interested in suit production to young. it is not sure whether it will work with his business suite. the thing to have is with him out of out of way
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legislative all the 1st step has worked out the tiny eggs with the size of poppy seeds have hatched on his a slot. in alternate b, all i saw a picture in a biology book and i said to my wife, hey, that would be something different to something new like this noise. and that's how it happened. and that's the reason we decided to try it out now saying to so they put on to suit us. mallos will be at noon. ah, younique's 1st attempt at siri culture has would be the issue is now finding a space to re a more than $10000.00 silk. once the garage is occupied with the co, shit, be an option with the stall here is that i am for to negotiate here in times of space would be really
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good. good mark on i. in fact you could just put a breathing tray down. he said he had a more hung a detail, but we need a constant temperature of 2122 degrees celsius. fine, frantic science on to cut off of society is the one thing. the other is the hygiene issue. hawkins is a cow shad suitable dismiss tomatoes copy you have to try it out it. the 3rd thing is access. how easily can you get there to feed the caterpillars in that open or face? my recommendation is to always have a breathing room where you can go in your pajamas before bad home and bring in fresh leaves if necessary. in common law, had potter confirm it. it's the easiest and most efficient way. if it's in the sunshine for free from the north of life scenarios kind and in terms of the workflow, it wouldn't be such a problem with or to inspect guest. it's always a bit more difficult in the evening just before you go to bed. when you're tired and you still have to attend to the animals of it, but it's the same in the winter when a cat is born,
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it doesn't care that you want to go to bed rock mister fool. and that is to linny, a jenny could have to plant at least a $120.00 mulberry trees, a silver production to be worth while ago from theater. so that ava via his farm is at an elevation of either a 1000 meters. janik wants to know whether the mulberry trays could survive the winter at the moment that there wasn't many in it for the mid of that thought through mccorkle as a diva. i'll just keep your body there. different varieties of mulberry tree or variety i would suggest is the one we have now fort lockwood pursued. they can tolerate up to minus $25.00 degrees celsius in the winter on ticket all 25th rate which meet them b o
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. u nina, group of men's livelihood also depends on silk. she creates fashion, fruits with silk and other local raw materials you nina, trained as an engineer in the construction sector. it decided to move away from building sites to the fine fabrics of fashion. became distortion cough was i went to her, i went to a store to buy something and i was always disappointed. but the quality was so down
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that i wanted about the price can i could buy a t shirt for fi, frank failures. but how does not work, and oh, i'm done them. i store all these videos about the accident and the ron plaza, gama factory and bangladesh. all these are all far west, so many people died. and i just thought to look at what cost of them for this my, from vision cars her concept is slowly fashion the opposite of throw away consumerism. her fashion also sells at higher prices than clothing from asia, than we are caught is a tip off. if we produce high quality clothes, we can wear them longer, ice, we uphold. that means we produce less waste. and we'll give you that we can even recycle some parts gaping, or we could even composite the silk. for example, seagal compost, the on flight of or a thank you, i little contribution. we can't even measure it yet and turn that at least at something is not as consist up or if it's lynette.
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the idea of slow fashion is catching all after some initial difficulties you nina found business partners and customers willing to pay the price for sustainability swiss silt from the can't. arnold bern has made its way back to zurich. in 1881, a silver weaving school was founded here to train specialist workers. however, by the beginning of the 20th century, the swiss silk industry was unable to keep up with international competition. to day new craft workers for the highly congested market being trained again in the textile college.
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i think the obviously i think it's really important that people learn to make things themselves. again, let expertise comes back to switzerland and ha, ha marie. so the higher the, hopefully gay can be small things like mending zipper or re sewing a him for many people that's already a challenge. although the guy owned the not do a lot of navita called me back, a trained catches on and people start sewing their own clothes again. they'll gain in violet sick from the legal, appreciate the textiles, more as a work of art, as or as an expression of individuality video. with that, because the they'll seamstresses a relatively rare in europe. women are often exploited in low wage countries. and there is still a massive pay gap between men and women. but the debate about climate change could alter consumer behavior. it over those in man cannot, i hold my generation and future generations can bring about change them,
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see no halter, got on local, to produce more sustainably and locally. so there is something for every one and every style a few years, and it tells us fi in steel. it us. so finding gibbs of a weird thing, feldwood, but the infamous and of anton watson with our ceo of the school. sonya and port shows the trainees 19th and 20th century swiss silk prince from the previous school . this to you? yes. 84 sheet and still he can see various patterns that were printed on silk fabric outside and shut off as they're of a really unique quality tact. but it's almost impossible to do this to day on seats here on ben boucher. these prints were celebrated and the pastor, hard to help me and we don't have so many printing works to day, all but there are still ways to produce. so from start to finish in switzerland, from industry, and also with ready to wear fashion. come on, own power, the gone to conflicts your own are for many ready to our companies. the costs were just too high and they outsourced i'm boarding house glock at all. but at the wrong,
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still small companies with between $10.30 staff that still produce in switzerland. they know english rights products, yet digitalization offers an opportunity to reduce production costs. with help from machines, the higher wages in europe, a less of the fact of this could bring industries black, which will be beneficial. the pandemic highlighted europe's dependency on supply chains. to ensure that silk has a future in europe, the trainees, a learning to get maximum use from the material and create as little waste as possible with digitally controlled laser cutting technology waste is virtually eliminated it's eat asia say of health was not 3. i'll of the miss look is
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a very valuable materials. i don't want to throw away any scraps. ethan began selling call, for example, with the sleeves. i. so i didn't just throw away the fabric. i cut out then vito, i attached them to this piece as leaves were decoration, as i think it are, those, this is either the silk is the natural fiber and the issues of sustainability and being nature friendly are big topics right now. this does it at so currently people are living more consciously. they want to buy less plastic for. that's why i think the silk business in switzerland can definitely grow before the material gets to this stage, it's already been through a lengthy process like an early and bettina silkworm farm. then watching out for the moment of maximum growth before the caterpillar stock cocooning. they need
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space and distance to do that. ready silkworms gain a lot of weight as they eat, putting on 10000 times their original white. eventually, they reached the maximum size one uses also mit food come. when they get to 5 grams, the larvae start to spend their cocoons, the rest, and yet, for this year, we know that they're gaining about one gram per day. right now, am i to morrow or the day after the 1st caterpillar will start spinning it's cooking t t s that all punch been as long as the caterpillars keep gaining weight as they eat everything is fine. but it really and bettina had a major setback when they started out in. so production for years, hopped among fong, federal low salmon beginning blake there to pick the leaves and brought them into
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the caterpillars. but they got sick and we didn't know why others until we discovered that insecticides had been full. transported through the air and landed on our mulberry leaves loft for foot off the top and all the black that up because it felt really we picked the leaps, fed them to the caterpillars, and then they died. for miss it's i, ally haines says that it was awful for me because on the one hand we lost i caterpillars, but on the other. got it. it's terrible. how insecticides penetrate nature was his height is height is not just of silkworms that were if i talked in afterwards, it's true that they are more sensitive. but all kinds of insects are affect um on the intake than the ot thing. site that ox, if you let i be for me, it was a real eye opener. first of all, that in a long time, when not heading in the right direction, thought what i was wrong physically optimistic, vixon kristof
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hoby dies the booth and swiss silk customers choose they color. then he mixes it especially silver is a demanding fabric for the dye to stick to the thread. kristof has to add acid and please ensure that the die chemically bonds to the fabric thing, mitigate fall 80 hall levels as a dire. i like all colors and now what i'm personally not so keen on it's brown and for me it's a non color. so he said this thought that all of generally like strong bright colors. he thought he thought he thought he had little little
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kristof works alone. here he runs one of the few small di works in switzerland, which sits local swiss. so produces large di works, do not accept this small orders. hey, phil young sped jolly sheep food claimant. i specialize in small quantities fuel and that's what swiss, so cause i had all claim and so they're very happy that i can die small quantities for them at all. thus he is to lead. he claimed mang fair. he couldn't move news if i can at all for the thing to thaw. i'm fine. show all the sale. grims are so fine when you have them in your hands. so it feels very pleasant to hold them. t thornton. hey,
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it's walt up to $24.00 days of feeding the caterpillars have had enough their bodies signal that they have sufficient energy and material to enter pew patient and spin necka can. each individual silkworm is placed by hand into it's me, hon. since the so produces only have to look after the caterpillars intensively for a month. siri culture makes for a good sideline. ah . of in his for his, his, for to but i getting ready to cocoon now. so when i start searching for a spot like this one, your dog, oh, that isn't it? said aki, they're very agile, which i like to seen. begin see at all shines. they start spinning quickly to fees,
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and i don't lose too much silk thread events when they start to form a cocoon straight away instead of searching. that's really great. on the alden red and all the others will all be in their little boxes in the next few hours. in that case, since i'm and finally, i'm losing patience haunting is tossed house coffee. ah, ah, ah, the result. 12000 caterpillar's spin, almost 4 kilo's of rural silk. one of them that makes 40 square meters of fabric, which a d and bettina can sell for about $3200.00 euros. that gives them an hourly wage around $23.00 euros. more than many farmers and per hour. ah
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. the cocoon is hardened by the caterpillar. dried out saliva. the threads softens in hot water. the pupa inside is killed by the heat. the cocoon is unwound on a so called dicola machine, which li imported from india. he learned to operate this machine in india, a craft long, forgotten in europe. once booley has wound straight on to the bobbin, his work is done. nova,
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i'm cold. oh, don't give him each cocoon has about 0.3 grams of silk it off. the length of the silk thread varies between 600 meters and a 2 kilometer said old school tried to call me these 2 thumbs speed. got this all of these elements coming together to drive the individual cocoon trans, feeding into one will enough all there. and then they still thread on the bobbin and all food on the roku excuses. after all, the hard worked with the trees, the caterpillars and drying it out, even though it's a uniquely wonderful moment, moment.
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eco, india. how can a country's economy grow in harmony with its people and the environment? when there are doers for look at the bigger picture? india, a country that faces many challenges and whose people are striving to create, assist, deliver projects from europe and india. equal india. in 30 minutes on d, w. o. o news.
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