tv Close up Deutsche Welle December 7, 2022 11:30am-12:01pm CET
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well, once the sustainable fashion wait in switzer with no soap thread is in high demand with a saxophone operator, for her master's thesis on the potato, raring to read. not been turned on. well, if it's more ridiculous from there, you don't you literature list. good german must read these hungry silkworms are eating their way to sustainable fashion for switzerland . their owners of venturing into siri culture breeding silkworms for swiss silk.
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by south extreme hostility. it's really fascinating to watch the whole cycle develop all the key really see that in such a short time with any other agricultural product or includes the sites in color with the idea is to produce home spun, sustainable fashion in switzerland. it could avoid the huge carbon footprint caused by importing silk from china. chauffeured thus in monica, now to and i hope my generation and future generations can bring about change to produce more sustainably and locally, ashton pool. ah, it really came up with the idea of breaking silkworms, which are actually caterpillars. the larval form of the domestic silk,
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moth. the lab space he needed for his experiment was rather testing for his family at 1st. so think of the yellow and said t ashanti von, but he was bearing his silkworms in our bathroom. of the past happening on my own. so daughter and i, well we didn't find it that practical phone biskin, ny ya. roc dish who ali and bettina resolve the conflict. my movie miss still quinn tries to the garage. the humble origin of many a grand project. yeah, of those been a long period. oh, i'm a foreigner but i have no land. this is not always a problem, right? all the through. so i decided to focus on special cultures where you can produce a lot on very little land for valley health fixing. i'm also a textiles engineer. so silkworms are a good match for those. is that that was partly out of necessity,
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but it's also fascinating. it oftentimes, it's really fascinating to watch the whole cycle develop. you rarely see that in such a short time with any other agricultural product, falls to comb. i didn't want to talk to, so it was a combination of necessity and fascination. of the fiscal of anna mitchell fish notated. tie on, fish, false timothy. ah, this is the sound of 12000 hungry caterpillars munching. the idea of making money from steri culture was a bold one, especially in switzerland. silk is actually from china where production originated thousands of years ago, bettina and really had to face resistance from a powerful knobby at 1st on the pick field. but all sher warranty reactions from
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the textile industry were mostly negative. that i, it's crazy. it will never work, it's just a hobby off it off. it was mostly negative. fabi a mic up if all but over time, their attitudes changed. not to listen that of course, where nature were very niche doing this, but we have revived the idea of making silk in switzerland. again, not every one is talking about it, but some are limb in the trip it off. the silk yarn they spin is destined for the world's catwalks fashion designer raphael cooter. a star in switzerland is a strong advocate of swiss silk in the textile industry. he's showcasing his collection at the swiss design awards in basil, the leading national design competition for years. rafael hunted down the best materials in the archives, museums, and companies. he decided on swiss silk. melissa
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thought my to the i'll to like by the silk, is a great material to work with it. and it has something special compared to other fabrics. and then it, i prefer to work with natural fibers, materials, what up cycle all materials and leftovers on it or did upside connect? i'd love to jada leftovers in 2019. rafael won the award for fashion and textile design at the swiss design awards. sustainability has become an essential criterion. visit i am to 5 and this is a silk shirt. it's vintage silk produced. i switzerland and everything has died by hand on that. went on good. bad. it's gorgeous. there still from china is out of the question for him. thousands of kilometers of transport means a huge carbon footprint. as
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a top designer is given swiss silk a name. but the silk has also given him a night. hadn't been, looks of as he did guys it's. i was lucky enough to win several different words and i was able to set up my own studio and zurich on that, somebody with these they collect this collection, for instance, was developed during the pandemic. so this is the 1st time i've been able to display it live on that that's big enough because i also made this video to present my work on film at my la, because there were no opportunities to hold an exhibition or fashion show, right? so i know stella and i so so to martin mulberry tree leaves at the ssl poems favorite food experiments facing them. other
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types of plant have all failed. the mulberry tree is robust, but there is one challenge the side that all consent. so silkworms are so sensitive because they've been specially brent for thousands of years purely to create silk for whole conserves the for sensitive to insecticides, of course, but also to fungicides and other chemicals. this is claude form, that they like to caterpillar sick and kill them. and all that on than optical tier one k mission teeth on did open. this is also why, sorry, culture is not possible in many places for all, for only under difficult conditions and open off talk because insecticides can drifting along. i was how from large apple on, which is for example, bhaskar olson op for long la, can these chemicals settle on the mulberry leaves? we harvest the leaves with him in the silkworms. can't say that in the play. the aunt decides that all that and crop. silkworms,
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voracious creatures. it takes $450.00 kilos of mulberry leads to raise his $12000.00 silkworms. it really often has to bring in new supplies. how many of italy's neighbors are traditional farmers, such as peter bomb up? his cows produce milk for cheese? a classic swiss product, but unlike many of their colleagues, he understood the silk project right from the start. ny and man, mommy, he thought he could pretty hotel i. if you talk to historians, you will hear that circles produced in switzerland many years ago. i was silkworms all thought out of italian that out belong day for theda. angelique. and my go dueli has founded a suit produces association called sweet silk. so far,
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11 production science in switzerland have joined the association. he hopes the project. oh gra. so they say bodies, it was important for swiss sales. i sent a regional example which would extend beyond switzerland, you know, and include nearby european contrast in all of it and where a complete supply chain could be. bill thompson writes, i met complet, they've had all items k delve this would mean finance transport than usual in these times of globalized trying shenise stalls. the where sell comes from china or brazil, side in the home, to a 30 small plane ticket in for chemo pomp of the cross, even called mitchell c. tommy we are trying to save the wow. director. we'll turn the whole system around here because it is in for a nice small knish. so that's not our aspiration or this thought is that on scroll up a bit, conan buys. but we can set an example by producing self locally to avoid greenhouse
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gases and problems. a wall dipoles garza from out ah, ali is meeting of pharma in the picturesque simon top valley in the current on a ben china managed to defend it. so production monopoly for many centuries. in fact, it was a state secret which was systematically prevented from spreading. it wasn't until $550.00 to idea that silkwood eggs finally reached europe. so. so this is danny. quicken i is interested in suit production to young. it is not sure whether it will work with his business suite. the thing to have is with
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them out of out of well if, if they did of all the 1st step has worked out the tiny eggs with the size of poppy seeds have hatched, or has a slot in them. on some b, all i saw a picture in a biology book and i said to my wife, hey, that would be something different to something new. lot of this noise. and that's how it happened him. that's the reason we decided to try it out. now. think so different room to suit us models, vivian? ah, unix 1st attempt at siri culture has would be the issue is now finding a space to ria, more than $10000.00 silk lance. the garage is occupied with the co shit be an option with
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the stall he is delightful to negotiate. here in times of space would be really good. good michael, i'm for. you could just put a breeding tray down here like shit. he had more hung a detail, but you need to constant temperature of 2122 degrees celsius. i know it's on 6 signs on to cut off of sis. i used the one thing. the other is the hygiene issue. hawkins, is a cow shad suitable it was mr. mottos copy of that? you have to tried out it. the deeper the 3rd thing is access. how easily can you get there to feed the caterpillars in that open no face? my recommendation is to always have a breeding room where you can go in your pajamas before bed homo, and bring in fresh leaves, if necessary. you can call me mo, had potter control me. it's the easiest and most efficient way to say fits. it sometimes lost faith from the noise or blow from errors kind and in terms of the workflow, it wouldn't be such a problem with or to inspect guest. it's always a bit more difficult in the evening just before you go to bed. when you're tired
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and you still have to attend to the animals of it, but it's the same in the winter when a cat is born, it doesn't care that you want to go to bed. rock. visto and smith is still the name of the jenny could have to plant at least a $120.00 mulberry trees, a silver production to be worth while ago from vienna. that over here his farm is at an elevation of either a 1000 meters. janik wants to know whether the mulberry trays could survive the winter at the moment that they were made in a fairly mid overflow through mccorkle. i'm diva, i'll just keep your body. there are different varieties of mulberry tree or variety . i would suggest is the one we have now fort lockwood pursued. they can tolerate up to minus 25 degrees celsius in the winter on sick at all. 25th rate is meet them
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b o. u nina, group of men's livelihood also depends on silk. she creates fashion, fruits with silk and other local raw materials you nina, trained as an engineer in the construction sector. it decided to move away from building sites to the fine fabrics of fashion. mclean distortion cough was. i went to her, i went to a store to buy something,
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and i was always disappointed with the quality. so down that i wanted about the price with cannon, i could buy a t shirt for fi, frank failures. but how does not work? and oh, i'm done them, i store all these videos about the accident and the ron plaza, gama factory and bangladesh. all these are all far west, so many people died. and i just thought to look at what cost of them for this life invasion closed her concept is slowly fashion the opposite of throw away consumerism. her fashion also sells at higher prices than clothing from asia, than we are caught is a tip off. if we produce high quality clothes, we can buy them longer, ice, we uphold. that means we produce less weight. and we'll give you that we can even recycle some parts gaping, or we could even composite the silk. for example, seagal compost, the on flight of the sample i little contribution. we can't even measure it yet.
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and curtain that at least at something is lani consists up or if it's in mind that the idea of slow fashion is catching all after some initial difficulties. you, nina, found business partners and customers willing to pay the price for sustainability swiss silt from the can't. arnold bern has made its way back to zurich. in 1881, a silver waving school was founded here to train specialist workers. however, by the beginning of the 20th century, the swiss silk industry was unable to keep up with international competition to day new craft workers for the highly congested market being trained again in the textile college
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in the area. i think it's really important that people learn to make things themselves. again, let expertise comes back to switzerland. ha ha marie. that was the higher the hopefully gay can be small things like mending zipper or re sewing a him for many people that's already a challenge. older owns they not do a lot of noise, gordon, but after trent catches on and people start sewing their own clothes again, they'll gain in violet sick from dick legal, appreciate the textiles more as a work of art, as or as an expression of individuality video with that because the vail seamstresses of relatively rare in europe, women are often exploited in low wage countries. and there is still a massive pay gap between men and women. but the debate about climate change could alter consumer behavior. it offered us in mind, i cannot, i hope,
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my generation and future generations can bring about, change them, see no halter, got on local to produce more sustainably and locally. so there is something for every one and every style or if you didn't, it was, was fee and still it was. so finding gibbs of, of your thing, feldwood. but the information that i'm from, woodson, with our ceo of the school, sonya and port shows the trainees 19th and 20th century swiss silk prints. from the previous school. this to you just 84 sheet and still he can see various patterns that were printed on silk fabric outside and shut off as they're of a really unique quality tact. but it's almost impossible to do this to day on seats here on ben boucher. these prints were celebrated and the pastor hard to help me and we don't have so many printing works to day all but there are still ways to produce. so from start to finish in switzerland, i mean the thing and also with ready to where fashion from on, on our, the gone to conflicts yawn for many ready to where companies,
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the costs were just too high and they outsourced. i'm boarding house glock at all. but at the wrong still small companies with between $10.30 staff that still produce in switzerland. they know english rights products digitalization offers an opportunity to reduce production costs. with help from machines, the higher wages in europe, a less of the fact of this could bring industries black, which will be beneficial. the pandemic highlighted europe's dependency on supply chains. to ensure that silk has a future in europe, the trainees, a learning to get maximum use from the material and create as little waste as possible. with digitally controlled laser cutting technology waste is virtually eliminated.
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it's eat asia say that was my 3 i'll of the may. silk is a very valuable material. so i don't want to throw away any scraps. ethan began selling call, for example, with the sleeves. i so don't i didn't just throw away the fabric. i cut out then vito, i attached them to this piece as leaves for decoration, as i think it are, those is this idea. the silk is the natural fiber and the issues of sustainability and being nature friendly, our big topics right now to discuss it at so currently people are living more consciously. they want to buy less plastic for. that's why i think the silk business in switzerland can definitely grow before the material gets to this stage, it's already been through a lengthy process like it literally and bettina silkworm farm. then watching out for the moment of maximum growth. before the caterpillar stock cocooning. they need
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space and distance to do that. ready silkworms gain a lot of weight as they eat, putting on 10000 times they were original white. eventually, they reached the maximum size usage. also make food come. when they get to 5 grams, the larvae start to spend their cocoons, risen yet with as yet. we know that they're gaining about one grandpa day right now . am i to morrow or the day after the 1st caterpillar will start spinning it's cooking i t. s that all punch been as long as the caterpillars keep gaining weight as they eat everything is fine. but early in between, i had a major setback when they started out in so production for years, hopped among fong,
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fed low salmon beginning blake there to pick the leaves and brought them into the caterpillars. but they got sick and we didn't know why others until we discovered that insecticides had been full. transported through the air and landed on our mulberry leaves loft for foot off the top and off the black that up because it felt really we picked the leaps, fed them to the caterpillars, and then they died for missions i lie. haines is that, is that it was awful for me because on the one hand we lost our caterpillars, but on the other got it. it's terrible how insecticides penetrate nature. while his height is height is not just of silkworms that were if i talked in october, it's true that they are more sensitive. but all kinds of insects are affect um, on the insect an odd thing. site that helps if you let that be for me, it was a real eye opener. first of all, that in a long time, when not heading in the right direction, thought orange lancaster missed optimistic, vixon kristof
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hoby dies duluth and swiss silk customers, choose their color. then he mixes it especially silver is demanding fabric for the dye to stick to the thread. kristof has to add acid and please ensure that the die chemically, bonds to the fabric with mid give all angry hall levels the as a dire, i like all colors and now what i'm personally not so keen on it's brown and for me it's a non color he said he thought that all of generally a like strong bright colors. he thought he thought he thought he get little little
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krista works alone here. he runs one of the few small di, works in switzerland, which sits local swiss, so produces large di works, do not accept this small orders. hey, lian sped jolly sheep food claim. i specialize in small quantities fuel and that's what swiss, so can say had alt lane and i so they're very happy that i can die small quantities for them at all. does he to lead? he claimed many fat. he couldn't lose his fighting at all for the thing to thaw an fine show. all the sail grams are so fine when you
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have them in your hands. so it feels very pleasant to hold them. t thornton. hey, it's walt up to $24.00 days of feeding the caterpillars have had enough their bodies signal that they have sufficient energy and material to enter pew patient and spin necka can. each individual silkworm is placed by hand into its me hun. since the so produces only have to look after the caterpillars intensively for a month. sorry, culture makes for a good site line. ah . ready of his begins, his thoughts about getting ready to cocoon now. so when i start searching for a spot like this one, your dog. oh,
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that isn't. it said, okay, they're very agile which i like to seen. begin see at all shines. they start spinning quickly to fuse and i don't lose too much silk thread events when they start to form a cocoon straight away. instead of searching. that's really great. on the on the rear and all the others will all be in their little boxes in the next few hours in that case, since i'm then finally i'm losing patience. haunting is tossed. house cotton ah, the result. 12000. caterpillar's spin. almost 4 kilo's of rural silk woven that makes 40 square meters of fabric. which a d and bettina can sell for about 3200 euros. that gives them an hourly wage around 23 years. more than many farmers and per hour.
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ah . the cocoon is hardened by the caterpillar. dried out saliva. the threads softens in hot water. the pupa inside is killed by the heat. the cocoon is unwound on a so called dicola machine, which early imported from india. he learned to operate this machine in india. a craft long forgotten in europe. once booley has wound the straight onto the bobbin,
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his work is done. nova, i'm cold. oh, don't give him each cocoon has about 0.3 grams of silk it off. the length of the silk thread varies between 600 meters and a 2 kilometer said old school. tried to call me these 2 thumbs speed. you got this. all of these elements coming together, the slide, the individual cocoon trans feeding into one well enough all there. and then they still thread on the bobbin and all food on the golf. broken excuses, after all the hard worked with the trees, the caterpillars and drying it out. even though it's a uniquely wonderful moment, moment
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