dust as men, these are that there are waves of this size does. that wasn't on the radar. so it sounds crazy. rogue waves are one of those natural phenomena that shouldn't even exist according to scientific theory. even so they've been reported again and again, just like ships that mysteriously disappear. can the mystery of the giant waves ever be solved? and what does a burning match have to do with any of it? ah, let's start here. it's no surprise that a hollywood movie would exaggerate the height of a wave take. for example, wolf can peterson's the perfect storm. the months to wave is meant to look as dangerous as possible. supposedly the film is based on a real incident, but how believable the stories as the capture,

there were other stories in the middle ages. they talked about. siemens is coming up from somewhere in snaring ships and dragging them into the deep and so on eve, our eyes of the life for centuries. monster waves were considered a sailor's young, like giant squid and other sea monsters. my witnesses were dismissed as crackpots, even when they were reputable captains like this one jude to move to v. a french navigator and explorer reported to 30 me to wave in 1826. o. 3 of the sailors confirmed the tale. no one on shore believed the captain about a century and a half later different c. same story. other than the dam i. and so at the time i was on a $10000.00 ton ship shift over and we were sailing straight to the caribbean, kathy, big at the time mark,

that was the 2nd officer on board. the m. s. fulton book, which was caught in high waves on the atlantic, and more and more wind came up and we have been and we made quite a few jumps without the modem from. so all kinds of things were going on. but it was all still within the realm of the normal law, like my mock lot was standing with his captain outside on the wing next to the bridge and then happened. a frivolous ship rolled terribly hoarse and, and i leaned forward like this and all of a sudden all was silent for were or then i thought at the for what is this the windows and stop all the one they all when i called before enough and i look over to starboard like this and then the thing arrived at of, of i was like wal, laugh there was a little white edge on top of them. and that was coming towards us on i campbell went through a monster wave just before the black wall in the ship,

with full force, montfort managed to grab hold of the bearing compass. then he fainted. briefly with when he regained consciousness, he saw the extent of the devastation belma. we had incredible damage to the ship, them, but we had 10 mercedes loaded. they were smashed to bits. klein was the crew escaped in one piece. nobody was seriously injured. how high does a wife have to be to call so much damage? portion from 21 to 25. so it's 23 meters was that must have been done without exaggeration. not a sailor's yarn. a single wave in the middle of the sea as high as a 5 story apartment building. no wonder the research community is remain skeptical of such descriptions. if every now and then scientist must publish an article that

says for the height sale is a talking about doesn't exist, don't exist. and physically, mathematically impossible among they crazy. the sailors, a lot of the cliche of the sailor who's up too much to drink and tell toll tiles persists to this day in such popular films as pirates of the caribbean. for example, wise, the rum always gone. but while joint waves thought to be purely fictional, to get an answer, we need to understand what waves are in the 1st place. how do they fall? how do they reach their size? the decisive factor here is wind. the wind blows across the water surface and brings energy and it released to some of that energy on to the surface of and what does that also surface do with that? it makes waves the waste transform, the energy how high the waves get depends on 3 factors. first, how long the wind blows. second, how strong it is. a 3rd is called the fetch,

the fetch. this is the fetishes, the length of the water surface that wind can act upon without restriction. the longest fetch is between 40 and 50 degrees, latitude, just off antarctica. this is because hardly any land or mountains ahead to deflect or obstruct the wind. so the wind can cause very high waves. 15 meters, no problem, but anything above that contradicts the classical wave theory. that's to say from a physics perspective, extreme waves are extremely improbable. diaz alika does the probability that a wave of a given height will occur is given according to calcium distribution. when it goes against your distribution is a calf that's highly improbable for very small wave smocks and then there is a maximum excrete. it is a waves that may be 6 or 8 meters high, and then the probability goes down again and fall very high waves of 25 meters.

it's the probability has become very, very small. it actually, that's the reason why, according to this idea and this gaussian distribution, what these especially large y heaps practically never occur. doctor, she often innocent waves not so different from humans. height is also normally distributed among people. take women in germany, on average. they are 1.66 meters tall, extremely tall or extremely short. women on the other hand, very red. but wait a minute. what about these break a waves in nazareth, portugal, for example, waves regularly rise higher than 25 meters. so regularly, in fact, that the fishing village has become a magnet for big wave surface. so to solve the mystery of monster waves should wave scientists just take vacations. more of it is the palm. i suppose here we have the ocean here we have our cosa we have

a sea floor c bottom that we will decrease. okay? so what that will decrease from here to here? so we have shallow water here. and here we have deep water than where waves will start traveling morgan. and there they will slow down because of the water bill is decreasing and they will slowing down and start accumulating and getting larger and larger and as steep fraud to will be form. and now once it's deep front is form, then gravity will make away break. and this is what is happening on the beach every day. so far, so normal, but not a ray has a special feature of the coast lies an underwater canyon, and it gets narrower and narrower towards the coast. whipped up by the wind. the waves are squeezed towards the land as if through a funnel storms move unhindered across the atlantic towards portugal,

especially in winter. plus in that array, they meet an oncoming current. all this combined to make the waves here enormous sounds reasonable. so what's the problem with rogue waves in natalie by nazare at the soft spots? one big wave after another comes instinct. so these waves that belong there, not roadways. rogue waves away that occur spontaneously in a strong swell is for example, you have 6 to 8 me to waves. good and then completely out of nowhere away the 25 meters high comes a limit from which was a meter. that's the classic rogue. why visual? so the lip, they're also called freak waves in english because they behave a little differently than their fellow waves. kind of freaky with re quaid is a wave more than twice the size of any other wave observed that at a given time, robot of them. so if waves in a stormy sea reach, say, 12 meters high than the one freak wave among them may well be 25 meters high. this

has been known since new year's day 1995. on that day, the weather of the droid in a gasp, platform in the north sea was rather bad. 12 me to high waves, crashing against the platform. nothing unusual. but then around 3 o'clock, p. m. something appeared a lie rising. the crew had never seen before. a giant wave rose off and crashed on to the platform. a sense of measured it just on the 26 meters at burst. most people didn't want to believe the drought, no measurement on the timeline, which is measured by a sensor on site. you can see the waves coming in in the middle of a suddenly there's an outlier like that and then it goes back to normal. and when you see something like that, and you've had experience with measurements yourself at 1st you think something went wrong. something bumped into the sensor, but the measurement was correct. another precision instrument recorded the wave independently, no chance of error. the dr. no wave was measured with

a laser device that's fixed to the platform. it looks down at the water surface measures the distance to watch. the mess of the laser was connected to sensor at the platforms foundation and the sense of mission away 25.6 meters high, a freak wave as high as the brandenburg gate. and berlin is lucas, it's really exciting to see that way. there is, i've clearly stated that such events cannot exist because wave theory doesn't account for that athlete. the not as other, when the droid news constructed in the 1980s. it was calculated that a 20 me to waive occurs in the north sea once every 10000 years. waves 26 meters high were not included in the calculations tall. luckily, the platform held up anyway, following the direct the wave. however, the scientific view of this phenomenon changed radically. now all the shift rec

suddenly had an explanation, and the stories about monster waves were no longer just a sailors. yar, the new findings, we used to show that between 196-919-9422 mega freitas sank due to rogue weight killing more than 450 people. in addition, many small vessels are so the freight, the same field, for example, sank of scotland in 2015. i'd save us died. the suspected cause was run away that appeared out of nowhere from these things always take you by surprise. there's no way you can know beforehand, but what if they could be anticipated? what it for? so just knew how when and where these monsters created. could seafarers be warned, and the worst preventing research is now being conducted world wide to solve the mystery of monster wise. one approaches to evaluate previous incident. apparently, there are clusters in certain places like the gallus current of south africa,

all. but why am i? it's long been established that ships quite often encounter unexpectedly high waves on the gallows, hearns of south africa, woman. the idea was proposed early on dammit, that it could be related to the strong current prevailing. well, it meets the waves there. so it's an interaction between the current and the waves and you can picture this way, but when the current comes from one direction and the waves arrive from the other direction, then the current practically bunch of the waves together. and then the energy has to go somewhere, so it goes up. this means the ways become high and steeper and the probability of an extreme wave has also increased. i remember when i was a kid and i was playing with a lance and i was burning things and my mom was not very happy about that. but the idea is the same because when, oh, electromagnetic waves goes through a lens, are,

they can be focus in a single bond. and then you create really plays where there is a lot of energy there. like sunlight through magnifying glass ocean current concentrate a lot of energy and that poses a danger to ships. not only of south africa does this happen. joint weight also develop in other areas. for example, east of japan, or along the united states, east coast. these are areas where major currents flow such as the current year or the gulf stream. conversely, does this mean the all clear for regions like the mediterranean, where there are no strong current, unfortunately know as the case of the grand voyage, a crew ship in 2005 shows on a heading from tunis to barcelona? 60 miles from the norco, the ship ramen's trouble. the engines fail. the ship was visited by the waves like a toy in upon 20 people were injured. only

a land did it become clear what had actually happened? a rogue wave? it smashed a window on the bridge. the water paralyzed the electronics rendering the ship temporarily unable to maneuver. freak waves are unpredictable like powerful monsters, powerful and destructive d, the coolant. this varies equivalent to the force exerted on the ship. i 3 me to wave difficult this year is equivalent to the force exerted on the ship by 8 me to wife and this is equivalent to the force that a rogue wave exits on the shipped a frog waves can develop that tremendous power even in regions without strong currents as the case of the grand voyager in the mediterranean sea shows than other factors,

obviously figure into that development o. d. eisley, individual whites is simply superimposed or added on to one another. so a natural swell has long gotten short a weight component either these are just added together of a did. it sounds like child's play. the wave simply stuck on top of one another, according to the principal, one plus one. it was 2 on old recordings of this wave channel. it looks like this. the effect is called superposition. shortwave to slower, to the core, my normal foster was the waves of allah become one big one. unlike in the channel waves move formal kyle to kill the open sea in a special circular wave channel, which is a trying to simulate the open sea. ah, and it works. wave superposition takes place. multiple waves grow into monster

waves, especially when they meet at an angle between 60 and a 120 degrees. according to the theory of superposition, seafarers should be safe because rogue waves are normally distributed and that as we learn means extremely rare. at this point, we could conclude there's no reason to panic about rogue waves if you're far enough away from major current. but then other data contradicts this. the arm and our measurements have shown that there are places where extreme waves can will frequently than you'd expect from pure chance not. so linear superposition is not adequately explained this frequent occurrence of extreme waves of holistic alpha. if, if an experimental occ, leon, aha, so no clear, unfortunately, in fact, these data reflect the number of ship bricks caused by rogue waves better. but that

means we need another completely different theory about the origin of these waves. maybe this little sailor can help us with that north hoffman places him in a wave channel that it's almost 20 meters long, and at one end is a flap that generates wireless. and at the other end is a beach which absorbs the wave sled, arrive them. so, so you have the propagation in one direction only as molly. first, we generate a regular way of saying the flap moves in a regular way and radiates a periodic way up to start so far so good. everything works exactly as described. the flap makes nice even waves at regular intervals, but then the research has changed the frequency. and as if by magic, a rogue wave 3 times as peak suddenly appears at the far end. could

not so we could observe that out of a uniform way failed at one point a road wave builds up and then also disappears again. bad luck for our little sailor. and not so easy to explain because it's magic is the kind of med big. and since this magic is a scientific one, it has a very scientific night modulation instability that gets double monday. and here you have a molar chromatic wave series. that means all the waves that come in look the same . they are very uniform and move outwards one north, there, monday, done. then if you act upon them from the side, so to speak, the atlas then something happens to this wave series. then groups of waves, full men can happen that a waveforms within this group that grows quite a lot higher than the incoming way series. he's, i'm up to 3 times as high a war. what happens here can best be described as a kind of theft. oh,

what is happening is that the single wave with a starts sucking energy out of the surrounding waves and we'll start growing. this is a typical nonlinear effect. and then out of this growing will, you will reach a wave that can be $23.00, and even more time, the significantly fight. the theory of modulation instability sounds much more threatening for shipping than that of superposition. because it says, not only can rogue waves rise much higher, they also occur more frequently about 10 times as well. so obviously everything depends on which effect as the operative, one laboratory simulations are of limited help because the ocean is more complex than what can be tested in wife channel. so we need more data. these could be provided by toys that record what happens before and after a rogue way. and under what conditions they occur. ah,

but unfortunately, we do not have these data. so there is still no scientific consensus about what causes rogue waves. a stem was, if i was given from what i had evaluated of the measure language and i believe lineage superposition is the main cause of extreme way of his facts payment on the by didn't. so in the really big rogue waves that of some 30 meters high, i have no doubt that non linear effects dominate. when i started working, of course i was convinced that the non linear mechanisms were fundamental, but now i'm getting older and that may be wiser. and i understand that the, maybe the mechanism is not a single one mechanism. so each way should be an allies in each conditions, should be check to see if it is or not, moderation stability or currents or superposition. so it's probable that more

than one phenomenon is behind rogue waves. depending on the way it may be, the one or the other. this is precisely wise necessary to understand which principle is done. greatly improve our ability to assess dangers in the future. in 2002, the oil tank a prestige broke apart in the atlantic and caused a terrible natural disaster on the coast of spain and france. experts believe that a rogue wave damaged the ship, especially for older freighters. the force of such a weight can be devastating. with dish of saloon fed ship house i'll ship strength to day are at a level where you can't compare them to 50 years against them. so as a rule, ships won't break apart. let a residual risk is still there because it,

egg champs are over 400 meters long and i have a 50 meters wide, much bigger than a rogue way. i plus more ships rogue waves can cause problems. motor freighters have a clear advantage of a smaller and older vessels, but large and new to not automatically means safe. let's look at a cruise ship. oh my good have by them quite far. you proceed from a certain way of hyatt for a cruise ship like this of a you can easily withstand the lots are, for example, from 6 to 8 meters or so of i for that means the 1st deck is pretty high. the fun. yeah, that's where the window start, the big beautiful panorama window. how much hype? well, i've been suddenly, there's a monster that's twice as high on her. that's tons of water crashing onto the windows and of so i can't imagine a cruise ship can withstand that end of of course, 5 hours like this was the case for the louis majesty crew ship of spain's

mediterranean coast and march 2010 coffee and cake were being served when suddenly 310 me to high wave slammed into the ship. the panorama windows burst. 2 passengers died. and i'm, it's a video circulated on the internet. could technology help? could wave right off predict waves individually for ships ships, but also busing ship radars, copper, some square miles around the ship or oil platform was what they allow c conditions to be reconstructed using computer models. and then these models are used to make future projections. it's similar to weather forecast, a limit of wagon for this forecasting. it's vital to gain an even better understanding of how rogue waves form the writer must be able to predict with linea and non linear rogue waves. it could warn captains of possible rogue waves 5 to 10 minutes in advance, not much time, but it could be enough. you may aside the,

the more time you have, the better, if you could, every one on board can be warned hunch. that means the damage that may occur shall be minimized. event, what's bad is if they have no time to flood, then you can't do anything. then you have to rely on things going well on being lucky. good, good. i think look up the forecast that goes beyond 10 minutes is for now impossible. the seas just to chaotic postuma what the problem of rogue waves cannot be priced in. you can't eliminate the residual risk of a ship capsizing. you have to live with it. further research into rogue waves will help to protect chips, the environment and human lives. an element of the unknown will probably always remain, but perhaps, therein lies the fascination. ah, ah, ah, ah,

ah ah, ah, with ah, the destination, the icy moons of jupiter? the journey 6000000000 kilometers taking 8 years the mission to discover extra terrestrial life. and the juice space pro

is on its way through the infinite expense to borrow today. next. ok, d w. oh . hey guys, it's evelyn share. my welcome to my podcast. another matter that i invite celebrities influences and experts to talk about all plain love effect from day to day. nothing less of all these things and more. and then, you know, season of the plot can make sure to tune and wherever you get your pot path and join the conversation. because you know it who love matters ah, ah, that has to. what did you do the food i gave to tenant. fantastic. ah,

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